EPISODE 28: INSTALLING A RARE SPARES HOLDEN HQ HZ HJ WB UTE REAR TRAY WALL PANEL
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- It's been hectic with work and the Shitbox Rally preparations hence the delayed episode. However final i can reveal this Episode where i install a Rare Spares Rear Tray wall panel for the Holden HQ, HZ, HJ, WB Ute model. Heads up. It's a long one...
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Loving your videos mate, I'm picking up a 74 next week, fingers crossed I don't find too much rust, if I do I'll be revisiting your videos for tips, thanks for the public service.
Cheers mate, good luck with the build and thanks for watching.
Barnesy,
There isn't really any short cuts you need to remove the gal 6 to 8 mm each side of where you're welding.
A good earth is also essential, remove the insulation from some copper electrical wire, clean the area of the panel your earth clamp will go, scrunch up the bare copper wire and put it over the cleaned spot then attach your earth clamp with the copper wire between the clamp and the panel. Also looking at your welds I think you need to do a bit more fine tuning to improve the bead shape, cleanliness will also help here.
Also wear a mask to stop the welding fumes getting in your lungs, its bad enough on clean steel, its worse when gal is involved, and worse again with flux core. Poison yourself breathing in gal fumes you'll be shaking like a dog shitting razor blades for a day or 2.
3m make a welding mask, 3M 8512 welding fume respirator, looks and fits like a standard P2 dust mask but can stop metal vapours, I get mine at Blackwoods, but most welding supply shops should have them.
I'm enjoying the build, nothing is impossible for the man not doing or paying for it himself 😊
Keep up the good work you deserve more than 1200 subs.
Cheers
Cheers mate, yeah it caught me off guard as i did not know gal existed in the ute and so therefore had no experience in how to tackle it. I was aware of the fumes and so had the door open with a breeze but i generally don't with the mild steel wire. I did not know you could get a mask so i will look into it as i always hold my breath when i weld but you can't always hold on the whole time. Thanks for the feedback i will take it all on board for next round. cheers!
Bro its good to see you explain things most people don't explain things 👍
Thanks mate, yeah that's why I decided to do these vids as I couldn't find anything to help myself. So ended up doing it the hard way, at least others can use my errors and success's and use it for their own builds. Cheers
@Sienna Angus running behind time.e as I'm on the Shitbox rally, once I'm back I will be back into it again in about 2 weeks
Hi Barnsey, thanks for the great video - Im enjoying watching your journey. Just a quick suggestion regarding dressing the welds. Instead of using epoxy metal, I use fibreglass body filler (sometimes called reofill). It is much, much stronger than normal body filler. It has some great benefits over other methods: 1. The fibres in the glass filler are really strong. 2. Fibreglass is not hygroscopic like normal filler, so it does not let water reach the metal - it actually acts as a sealer. 3. It sticks great to bare metal. Just make sure you file it before it gets too hard, because it is very hard to sand. Cheers.
Hey mate, thanks for watching, yeah nice tip, I actually made an error with using etch primer to lay down first as you can't put body filler over it so I am going to scuff it back and put down a 2k primer then apply my filler. It's not great but unfortunately I was given bad advice from a paint store about etch primer when I should have used epoxy like I originally wanted. I have already bought body filler and will need to do a lot of sanding to get the correct lines so I will stick to that method for now. I will look into the other filler though, thanks again.
Have a look at Peter Anderson videos as he has built a number of cars and does a lot of welding on mild thin steel
I've seen his vids, he is great! cheers
considering your only a novices and not a panelbeater your doing a bloody good job and nothing wrong with a little thicker skim of bog "bodyfiller" we call it bog in nz as long as you dont put bog on bear steel best to prime it all first keep it mate
Cheers mate, yeah I heard you can't put it on etch primer either so going to put down 2k primer before I apply filler.
@@BarnesysBuilds its fine to put on etch primer the say you should put polyester fillers "bog" over epoxy etch primer but i now of people that have been doing it for years and just say you need to key up the epoxy primer first with bit of 240 grit sandpaper i see you been bizzy with the shit box but hows the wb ute coming along mate!! time for a up date
@@justink1120 Hey Justin, yeah been flat out mate but just finished painting underneath and plenum, been doing heaps of touches before paint, welding pin holes panel beating wheel arches. Episode 100% definitely out this week as well as finally Shitbox video.
you use to be able to buy the side sections as well to repair that rear tray area of the window
like most rarespares repair panels there average in quality
i've fitted these panels and i usually seperate the top section from the wall it fits better
done this way allows adjustment of the two sections
Yeah it's always the way tackling something the first time, you very rarely do it the right way first shot. It would be a lot easier having the 2 seperate that's for sure. cheers
Also weld downhand where possible, thats what rotisseries are for you will get a better looking bead, better penetration and generally better travel speed and more consistent arc length.
Or spend a few days practicing your uphill and down hill welds on some suitably thin scrap.
Weldingtipsandtricks on youtube has a lot of good examples as does weld.com.
Yeah i will give them a go, i was getting alright on the sheet metal until this Gal section, i wasn't aware you have to push forward on a MIG until i saw weld.com youtube. I definitely have a long way to go with my welding, it's a real art. cheers again
No grinding sparks on the Porsche , Ok Barnesy! ( get it right)
Yes indeed, it's usually moved outside but in that instance I was a little lazy 😬
Barnsey. I re-watching as I’m thinking of replacing this on my hx. Looking back now would you change anything else not mentioned in your vid? I’ve already done the angled side piece on the tray, it’s also bigger like the wall so I’d say that if you were committed(mad) enough to replace both angles and the wall, they would all be the same height. You can braze cheaply to fill holes by getting some soft plumbers wire rods and a cylinder of map gas...will melt into the pin holes. It’ll be a bugger for holding water otherwise along those corners. .
Hey mate, looking back I would definitely grind back the surface where the welds go to remove all the galvanized metal as that really affected the weld quality. Other than that there's really not much else you could do to make it easier, it's just a hard job for one person. Oh where it lipped over to rest on the existing inside wall was also a slow messy process so I'm not sure how else you could make that work better other than not lapping it and just butt welding it. I imagine lapping a much stronger and a lot less welding hence why they did it like that. Cheers
Barnesy's Builds thanks 👍
Hi Barnesy, I'm in NZ, have you ever installed seatbelts in an HQ holden ute?
Hey mate, no I haven't but it's the same as WB, HZ etc, just bolt them up into the cab in the factory captive nuts.
Hey barnsey im just curious mate what air compressor you have? How many HP one do I need? For doing bassically everything your doing. I have no idea and im restoring an old HQ tonner. Im learning as I go along and yur vids are so helpful. Thanks mate appreciate it!!!!
Hey mate, I am using a 18CFM air compressor which is around 3.5 horsepower. It really goes by your CFM rating though which is how much air it is capable of pumping out per minute. Look at WEEK 13 EPISODE where on go into the specs and what you should look for and then the episode where i buy the air compressor and i go right into the tech of it. cheers
Hey brotha, did you only buy the one panel? There’s two pieces on rare spares. The rear wall and a pass compartment. Did you need both or was it all just one piece. Cheers
You just need the rear wall panel, it comes with the top folded section the tarp lock studs are usually drilled and mounted on. You can also get the side angle sections separately but I didn't need those
Hey brotha, where did you mount your rostissirie to? I have a Ute but I’m trying to figure out where to mount it. Cheers
Hey mate, I did a full step by step video on the whole process here ua-cam.com/video/J6dmT4TXC-M/v-deo.html cheers
Your heart sinks after you think your are doing the right thing replacing all the bent panels and rust with new rare spare panels only to find they don’t fit. Try doing the rear quarters as well!
Yeah this wasn't one of the slickest panel operations on the build that's for sure, but still it's transformed the rear window into much cleaner lines now. Did you install the full 1/4 panels? I've done door to wheel arch and rear 1/4s already.
Yes mate, both sides. Unfortunately the style line is about 8mm higher than original on the repo guards compared to original which means the door line doesn’t line up. Thought I was doing the right thing by getting all new clean metal but it’s just become a real pain to make it look any good.
@@airtractor76 I have heard the style line is out, once again quite a fundamental thing to get right. The cowl panel is a very good repo panel as it's moulded from the original factory mould. These other panels must be formed from castings they do themselves as you would think if they had an original 1/4 panel mould it should slot straight in and everything lines up.
A novice welder should not be giving advise on welding.
Throw that gas less shit in the bin where it belongs, if your welds look like shit, guess what. If it looks like a duck and quacks like a duck yep it's a duck.
Simply grind or wire brush the gal off in the area that you want to weld and get on with it. By the way, your welds look a little cold so turn your amps up you'll find it works better and if you start blowing hole try moving a little quicker, plus keep your stick out shorter.
Practice on some scrap first.
I'm not advising anyone mate, this is a documentation of my build and the things I'm doing and learning along the way.
At what point did realise that this panel is shit and shouldn’t even be sold as a replacement. Nothing like the original?
Hey Danny, I wouldn't say it's a bad panel, it still looks great fitted however its just a hard area to manage which makes it very difficult to fit. As someone else commented it's much easier having it in 2 pieces. So install the front panel and the square backing separately. Would be much easier to fit then.
Barnesy the disappointing part about that rear panel is that it’s too wide to fit into the original space so you have to cut through the style line to get it in. At least you would think they could get the width correct.
@@airtractor76 yeah true, I don't know why they would do that, it's really not hard to get it correct.
@@airtractor76 50 years ago they weren't exactly using the precision in machinery they are using today!