My uncle was probably on the Exeter when it was sunk in the Java sea. He was definitely on the Repulse when that went down a short while earlier, but I don't know which ship he was sent to afterwards - I just know he ended up as a POW. He survived the camps, but the Japanese looked after him so well that he died shortly after the war from the after effects of their hospitality
You should paint a number of parts before assembling, those that are very small, or will be hard to reach later on. But your video special effect with the ocean waves is insane, wow!
Holy moly man I've been binge-watching your videos and I'm absolutely blown away by your skill and attention to detail. I have been building Gunpla, Bandai Star Wars, and Revell Star Wars models for a while now but they're the snap models and seem like child's play compared to the things you do. You've inspired me to take the hobby further and attempt some more difficult builds. Keep up the fantastic work my man, much love from Chicago! - Colton
Hey Colton, thanks mate. Very kind of you. By the way, my brother lives not far from you...Champaign. I have visited him a couple of times, you live in a wonderful part of the world friend....well at least when its not snowing... lol.
@@jimcarr4007 Zvezdas new kits are most of the time fit well and are more or less easy to assemble. Revell kits are also always a good choice for newcomers. Do you want to build ships? Revells miniships are a fun build tough they aren't of best quality otherwise try 1/700 scale ships from Revell.
Beautiful work, I just came across your channel and like what I see so far…so I subbed and hit the bell…looking forward to watching more of your builds.
A nice piece of work her on a 1/700. with all those small details, but as a retired captain i would say that no ship will be in open water with its gangway out and lowered as you have on her starboard quarter, good seamanship says that when you leave port you secure the gangway ;), nitpicking thats what old seadogs do best. Keep up with your good work.
Thanks Helge...I know very little about ships, but even as I was gluing on the gangway, I felt that it did not feel right. That's why I glued in on one side only...he he he. I know I should have done a little more research but...you live and you learn. Thanks again :)
Thanks Bill. I am currently working on the Fly Hawk HMS Prince of Wales, that is one super detailed kit. I have never seen plastic detailing that fine, ships, aircraft, tanks...just really good.
This diorama is amazing. My brother has just started building a HUGE battleship - the Yamato - which will probably take weeks or months to build. I'd like to make the seascape at the end for him. As I don't have an airgun, could I sponge on the paint, could I get the same effect. Thanks for a great video
Thanks Jan. The water movement was done using an app on my phone. It's called Pixaloop. The app is free and comes with some basic functions, you have to pay for the more advanced options. This animation was done using just the basic functions :)
Very nice job mate! However you missed the rigging and the flag(s). I refuse to built waterline kits...and I know there are a lot like me...it constrains you to put it on a see diorama and only in calm waters since if it is a bit rough you need to sow some of the hull which does not exists...
Thanks mate. I really tried to find a rigging plan but could not find one. Also i have little experience with ships.. too little to rig it on my own. any idea where one can get rigging plans.
Excellent construction of model and water diorama. However, I think the weathering is too heavy for such a small scale. Ships were not this dirty/rusty. I think just hints of wear and tear would work better for such small scale project.
I agree....but his was my first ship kit and I don't think I judged the scale for weathering correctly. The other problem was that when I tried to keep it subtle, the damn thing would hardly show :) But I guess next time I will keep the weathering more subtle.
what a lovely job you did, as a fellow 1/700 ship builder, that's an outstanding job, with a lot of helpful techniques displayed. Why did you not rig her?
Hey William, thank you. I am glad that you liked the video. I really wanted to rig her, but despite a long and exhaustive search I could not find any information on how this ship was rigged. For a little while I thought I would just rig her using my imagination, but that did not seem right, so I left the rigging off. I know it would have really added another dimension to the kit.
@@scalemodellingmadness4114 I asked as you did such a great job on the rest of it, and I picked up so many tips (thank you) that I was looking forward to seeing how you rigged her, as rigging can be patience testing.
Hi Jim thanks for watching. So, when it comes to ships I have started leaning more and more towards two brands, FlyHawk and Aoshima, though I am sure there are some really good kits by other manufacturers out there as well. The kits are not that hard to find, the challenge often is finding the accompanying after market PE set and the wooden deck. I live in Singapore so the two places I search (other than our local hobby shops) are Hobby Link Japan (hlj.com) and Hannants (hannants.co.uk). Also, if you get friendly with the hobby store owner, they will often help you find a good kit and the after market parts :)
Thanks Leonid. I did not remove the plastic deck. The wooden deck is actually a very thin laminate layer that is self adhesive. So, all I did was remove all the extra bumps and knobs on the plastic deck that were not required and then glued the wooden laminate in place. Also, there is a four part series of this built on the channel, it's much more detailed than this complete build video. Hope that helps :)
Thanks buddy. The open cup is a bad habit of mine, I have tried to be more disciplined about it, but after a few sessions I am usually back to the open cup...lol. btw I have ruined more than one paint job on this account, but never learn my lesson.
The railings for this ship came from a PE set that was specifically designed for this ship, so they were already cut to size. Else, when using generic railing, I use a thread to measure out the length. Then cut a few centimetres longer than required, to adjust for bending or curving. I hold it in place and then make a final cut if any adjustment is needed :)
Hey Spence, the painting of the kit black first is called black basing or priming. It helps in a couple of ways. Firstly, a unified paint over the kit helps one spot any mistakes (like bad seam lines, finger prints, etc.) easily. If such a mistake is spotted one can correct it, by sanding or puttying, and then reapply the black base to check again. The same would be much more painful do to if you have already applied the final coat of paint. Secondly, the black base helps create natural shadows. If one controls the application of subsequent layers of paint, once can use the black base to achieve nice and subtle tonal variation. Hope that helps :)
Thanks before that I use to go to Local Home depot purchase a spray primmer to apply to the model. Now I know spray the kit "Black Basing" is a better way and the result are better. Other question is do I need to spray a coat of clear gross finish to the whole model before I apply the weather line to protect the paint I apply before and after I apply the weather line. I spray another cost of Flat clear cost and call that complete.
The model Exeter has been well constructed but its the sea that wins merits, one of the best oceans I've seen in ages, well done!
I agree.
My uncle was probably on the Exeter when it was sunk in the Java sea. He was definitely on the Repulse when that went down a short while earlier, but I don't know which ship he was sent to afterwards - I just know he ended up as a POW. He survived the camps, but the Japanese looked after him so well that he died shortly after the war from the after effects of their hospitality
you mean "uncle grandpa?
@@usswasp6530 No, I mean my uncle
This is model building elevated to art. Incredible display of skill and talent.
Thanks so much for the kind words mate :)
You should paint a number of parts before assembling, those that are very small, or will be hard to reach later on.
But your video special effect with the ocean waves is insane, wow!
Wow. The look of the decks alone is fantastic. What a marvellous build sir.
Thanks mate, very kind of you :)
Holy moly man I've been binge-watching your videos and I'm absolutely blown away by your skill and attention to detail. I have been building Gunpla, Bandai Star Wars, and Revell Star Wars models for a while now but they're the snap models and seem like child's play compared to the things you do. You've inspired me to take the hobby further and attempt some more difficult builds.
Keep up the fantastic work my man, much love from Chicago!
- Colton
Hey Colton, thanks mate. Very kind of you. By the way, my brother lives not far from you...Champaign. I have visited him a couple of times, you live in a wonderful part of the world friend....well at least when its not snowing... lol.
Amazing work here. Wish I could like it 100 more times.
Wow, thank you Jay! Very kind of you :)
in that scale the Walrus looks like a mosquito... the insect. Great job Mister
One of my favorite ships.
Model making is good skill tried it when I was younger and normally made a mess with glue and paint 😝
Can you recommend a kit for first timers no photo etch
@@jimcarr4007 Zvezdas new kits are most of the time fit well and are more or less easy to assemble. Revell kits are also always a good choice for newcomers. Do you want to build ships? Revells miniships are a fun build tough they aren't of best quality otherwise try 1/700 scale ships from Revell.
Such a skilled builder!!!
OUTSTANDING SIR
Thank you, sir :)
Breathtaking. I salute your skills, sir.
Thank you so much for the kind words :)
The expression of water is wonderful anyway. The tissue paper became the surface of the water!? 😳
Brilliant 👏 what a finish just superb
Wow - that is really superb work - incredible attention to detail -thanks for posting the video.
Thanks mate :)
Great work.Lots of nice details!👍👌
Thanks mate :)
Absolutely fantastic, great job! well done
V. V good Artist
Thanks mate :)
Wow, well done, a work of art..
Beautiful work, I just came across your channel and like what I see so far…so I subbed and hit the bell…looking forward to watching more of your builds.
Well done ....... Well done ........👍
Thank you mate :)
Good job 1/700 is pushing my sanity with my arthritis and bad eyes 1/350 is bad enough! SMDH
Amazing work of art
Thanks mate, very kind of you :)
Absolute cool Amazing job done
beautiful detailed work
Thank you so much 😀
Amazing job!!!
Top notch build, the dio looks awesome!.....Bill
Thanks Bill, very kind of you :)
A nice piece of work her on a 1/700. with all those small details, but as a retired captain i would say that no ship will be in open water with its gangway out and lowered as you have on her starboard quarter, good seamanship says that when you leave port you secure the gangway ;), nitpicking thats what old seadogs do best. Keep up with your good work.
That was exactly the comment I was about to make.
Thanks Helge...I know very little about ships, but even as I was gluing on the gangway, I felt that it did not feel right. That's why I glued in on one side only...he he he. I know I should have done a little more research but...you live and you learn. Thanks again :)
Nice job, kudos on you skill with the PE too. Strange there was no PE rails on the catapult platform.
Thanks Bill. I am currently working on the Fly Hawk HMS Prince of Wales, that is one super detailed kit. I have never seen plastic detailing that fine, ships, aircraft, tanks...just really good.
@@scalemodellingmadness4114 Only Flyhawk kit I possess is the Lutzow German WWI BattleCruiser.
Awesome job !!
Thank you!
This diorama is amazing. My brother has just started building a HUGE battleship - the Yamato - which will probably take weeks or months to build. I'd like to make the seascape at the end for him. As I don't have an airgun, could I sponge on the paint, could I get the same effect. Thanks for a great video
Excellent!
Thanks buddy :)
Job well done......
sweet
哇! 太逼真了～
The fleet comander would have a fit seeing one of his ships in such a state. You over done the weathering.
fantastic!!! could you list the after market sets you used on this kit??
Very very good ! And I learned a lot. How did you do the wonderful video effects of moving water ?
Thanks Jan. The water movement was done using an app on my phone. It's called Pixaloop. The app is free and comes with some basic functions, you have to pay for the more advanced options. This animation was done using just the basic functions :)
Very nice job mate! However you missed the rigging and the flag(s). I refuse to built waterline kits...and I know there are a lot like me...it constrains you to put it on a see diorama and only in calm waters since if it is a bit rough you need to sow some of the hull which does not exists...
Thanks mate. I really tried to find a rigging plan but could not find one. Also i have little experience with ships.. too little to rig it on my own. any idea where one can get rigging plans.
Excellent construction of model and water diorama. However, I think the weathering is too heavy for such a small scale. Ships were not this dirty/rusty. I think just hints of wear and tear would work better for such small scale project.
I agree....but his was my first ship kit and I don't think I judged the scale for weathering correctly. The other problem was that when I tried to keep it subtle, the damn thing would hardly show :) But I guess next time I will keep the weathering more subtle.
@@scalemodellingmadness4114 It's an RN ship. Any captain allowing his command to get so rusty would be cashiered! ;p
what a lovely job you did, as a fellow 1/700 ship builder, that's an outstanding job, with a lot of helpful techniques displayed.
Why did you not rig her?
Hey William, thank you. I am glad that you liked the video. I really wanted to rig her, but despite a long and exhaustive search I could not find any information on how this ship was rigged. For a little while I thought I would just rig her using my imagination, but that did not seem right, so I left the rigging off. I know it would have really added another dimension to the kit.
@@scalemodellingmadness4114 I asked as you did such a great job on the rest of it, and I picked up so many tips (thank you) that I was looking forward to seeing how you rigged her, as rigging can be patience testing.
You’re right, for some reason, instructions for photo etch construction are always awful.
Ｉlike this ship&video
Thank you friend :)
Hammer geil 👍👍👍👍👍
By any chance have you had fish n chips with chicken salt lmao
Awsome. Who do you order your ship kits from. And price. This Whould help me a lot. Thank you. Jim
Hi Jim thanks for watching. So, when it comes to ships I have started leaning more and more towards two brands, FlyHawk and Aoshima, though I am sure there are some really good kits by other manufacturers out there as well. The kits are not that hard to find, the challenge often is finding the accompanying after market PE set and the wooden deck. I live in Singapore so the two places I search (other than our local hobby shops) are Hobby Link Japan (hlj.com) and Hannants (hannants.co.uk). Also, if you get friendly with the hobby store owner, they will often help you find a good kit and the after market parts :)
cool
Very nice model and base, but please use gloves (and a mask) when spraying stuff ... :-)
Great build.... But that music from15:45 to 18:20 was mind-numbing tedium. 😵
Cool work! Did you remove plastic deck before putting the wooden deck? If so, how did you do it?
Thanks Leonid. I did not remove the plastic deck. The wooden deck is actually a very thin laminate layer that is self adhesive. So, all I did was remove all the extra bumps and knobs on the plastic deck that were not required and then glued the wooden laminate in place. Also, there is a four part series of this built on the channel, it's much more detailed than this complete build video. Hope that helps :)
Watching you spray without a top on the paint cup makes me nervous. Wonderful ocean effects too.
Thanks buddy. The open cup is a bad habit of mine, I have tried to be more disciplined about it, but after a few sessions I am usually back to the open cup...lol. btw I have ruined more than one paint job on this account, but never learn my lesson.
@@scalemodellingmadness4114 My H&S air brush comes without a lid from new. love the vid but no narration anymore, i used to like that.
Cool stuff mate! Congratulations! On 26:19', what is the color to the left, next to the XF-50?
That is Blue Grey, buy any paint to lighten the field blue XF-50 will do :)
@@scalemodellingmadness4114 thank you very much!
What's the trick you use for cutting the lengths of railings to their proper size in each section?
The railings for this ship came from a PE set that was specifically designed for this ship, so they were already cut to size. Else, when using generic railing, I use a thread to measure out the length. Then cut a few centimetres longer than required, to adjust for bending or curving. I hold it in place and then make a final cut if any adjustment is needed :)
@@scalemodellingmadness4114 That's a very clever solve, thanks!
Is this the Exeter sailing to engage the Graf Spee or is it her sailing to the Far East?
1941 refit; so any time from her North Sea, Indian Ocean, or ABDA command service.
Weird how modelers insist on 'weathering' the decks (which were very regularly scrubbed with abrasive stones) on British and American WW2 ships.
Wonder why you paint the model Black first then go grey. Sorry to ask need to this
Hey Spence, the painting of the kit black first is called black basing or priming. It helps in a couple of ways. Firstly, a unified paint over the kit helps one spot any mistakes (like bad seam lines, finger prints, etc.) easily. If such a mistake is spotted one can correct it, by sanding or puttying, and then reapply the black base to check again. The same would be much more painful do to if you have already applied the final coat of paint. Secondly, the black base helps create natural shadows. If one controls the application of subsequent layers of paint, once can use the black base to achieve nice and subtle tonal variation. Hope that helps :)
Also, please feel free to ask as many questions as you like. I will try my best to answer them when I get the time :)
Thanks before that I use to go to Local Home depot purchase a spray primmer to apply to the model. Now I know spray the kit "Black Basing" is a better way and the result are better. Other question is do I need to spray a coat of clear gross finish to the whole model before I apply the weather line to protect the paint I apply before and after I apply the weather line. I spray another cost of Flat clear cost and call that complete.
Please...1/700 Nimitz
I will surely try to make one soon Fabio, but it may take some time :)
Talk about small, nice model though.
There is only one diorama to do with this kit, she should be in a hard right turn and the title of the diorama should be “Exeter to investigate”.
ウォーターラインの新作じゃん！
こんなん
絶対無理w
You need a manicure... Otherwise, great video!