Despite the other petty comments about your use of screw drivers this video was a great help in replacing the hand spring assembly in my Uberti Cattleman. From what I could see you were pretty gentle in removing and replacing the screws and didn't see any marred heads on the screws or scratches on the frame. I'm adding your video to my favorites for future reference. Thanks again!
Hi, along with other reader comments, I am giving you top notch review for this video. I just got an old Colt SAA first gen gun at auction and watching this makes me feel prepared to open it up. I can see on the pictures the trigger guard plate to frame is not flush, so I will need to look at it to see if the trigger spring screw is backed out or what, lol? Anyway big thanks for the detail on this!!!!
As others have noted, you are not taking care with your screwdriver work, you must have the full set of Screwdrivers so why not use them, it is no good talking about taking care and then, slipping and sliding with tips of the screwdrivers, but the instructional part of the video was ok, so thanks for uploading, but please take care of the guns, they are only on loan to you in your lifetime, then somebody else will carry on looking after them, so try and give them as good a start as you can. ATB
I have a Uberti Cattleman 2 with the retractable firing pin, might wanna convert it back to the original design. This video will come handy when my parts arrives!!! Thank you so much!
If you're taking apart an Uberti Cattleman, watch out. There's a pin and spring behind the cylinder hand that is accessed through a hole above the left backstrap screw on the back of the gun.
@@tomcopeland7418 honestly it’s the best learning experience I’m sure a lot of people harped on him for it and now he learned something because he showed the world
How do you properly tighten the cylinder pin latch, since it has screws on both sides. Two screwdrivers at once? I guess you'd need to put the gun in a vice to do that.
Is the barrel a different part or it is an integral part of the frame? Because in the air fun replica of the pistol it is a different part screwd and even it is well screwd it is slightly loose, still I am told that this is normal for an air gun.....
Can someone recommend the right screwdrivers for Uberti SAA. The slots in the screws are not as wide as the Colt. The Grace screwdrivers are too thick and do not full seat in the slot.
You can but I wouldn't recommend it. The problem will arise when you go to put it back together again. Likely the bolt will not want to reengage into the cylinder slot without some fuss. You're going to have to remove the base pin at some point anyway...so you might as well get yourself a base pin removal tool. Their not cheap but if you're going to own a Colt you'll want to avoid buggering up your base pin with a pliers or something. www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/takedown-tools/colt-saa-base-pin-puller-prod10997.aspx If need be...you might want to use some penetrating oil to loosen the base pin...just make sure it's something that won't harm your finish or wood grips if you have them.
I found that if you push that cylinder pin in and use it as a safety, when the hammer Falls, it will Dent the notch preventing the pin from coming out. I had to disassemble my gun and use a punch to get the cylinder rod out and there is a little dent in there from the hammer pushing it forward. Now I have a tiny barrel-shaped coil spring and pin that I have no clue where they go and I don't see him dealing with it either.
For anyone reading this and having a sticking cylinder pin, you can get a special tool from brownells that is specifically designed to remove the cylinder pin.
Without any additional details, I’m going to provide my best guess. If it’s an Italian clone, there’s a good chance it may have the longer, double notched cylinder base pin. This has two notches and is longer so that it can basically be over inserted and block the hammer from falling all the way. Try removing it, checking to see if there are two notches, and if so, reinsert it only to the first notch and see if that fixes the problem. If not, is there any mark at all on the primer? You may be getting light strikes which could be one - or all - of a couple different issues. Let me know if the cylinder pin solved it.
There are MANY variations of the 1873 peacemaker, whether it's the original Colt, the 1970s Virginian Dragoon, Ruger with adjustable sights, Uberti, who by the way, makes an excellent reproduction, & several others. The point is, they are all based on the Colt 1873 Peacemaker Frame (or the Army M1873 until almost the end of the 19th century) Incidentally, Ruger modified the design by removing the double leaf spring and replacing it with coil springs! However, I have made my own leaf springs out of feeler gauge leafs. But instead of ONE THICK SPRING like came with the gun that always breaks, I stack about 5 or 6 thinner ''feeler gauge leafs'' together! Which hardy ever break. Use a Dremel to make the springs, and keep and use the original hole in the feeler gauge for the screw. If you'd much rather replace the broken spring with store bought, go ahead. I NEVER do though. LAST, I Always wrap a feeler gauge with 400 or 600 grit wet sandpaper and FIT EACH SCREW do they are ALL the same orientation. I've seen some gunsmiths do this, and ALWAYS put the screws back in the same hole. A-L-L 1873 Peacemaker Frame based revolvers, of whatever brand, should ALWAYS LOAD FIVE (5) , N-E-V-E-R - 6 ! THIS WAY: Load one, Skip One, load 4, then pull hammer back all the way, then forward ''3 clicks'' closing the hammer on an empty chamber. For Example, this is why Ruger quit making the single action old model 3 screw, .22, .357, .44, etc and designed a transfer bar safety for the revolver because ignorant, inexperienced shooters kept loading 6 and accidentally firing a load! STUPID! A-L-W-A-Y-S keep the hammer back ''1 Click'' ''KNOWLEDGE'' is also a ''Safety'' !
Grace makes a set of Colt SSA screwdrivers. Right tool for the job.
Despite the other petty comments about your use of screw drivers this video was a great help in replacing the hand spring assembly in my Uberti Cattleman. From what I could see you were pretty gentle in removing and replacing the screws and didn't see any marred heads on the screws or scratches on the frame. I'm adding your video to my favorites for future reference. Thanks again!
this channel is top I sent my friends to write to see this type of work
Great Tutorial - My Colt SSA had a jammed cylinder stuck - I did a total disassembly and fixed the problem.
Thanks, buddy! Nice, clean video. Just used it to replace my first bolt spring. 15 minutes and done. Appreciate it!
I cringed every time the screwdriver slipped
Hi, along with other reader comments, I am giving you top notch review for this video. I just got an old Colt SAA first gen gun at auction and watching this makes me feel prepared to open it up. I can see on the pictures the trigger guard plate to frame is not flush, so I will need to look at it to see if the trigger spring screw is backed out or what, lol? Anyway big thanks for the detail on this!!!!
Nice, concise and no music, good one.
As others have noted, you are not taking care with your screwdriver work, you must have the full set of Screwdrivers so why not use them, it is no good talking about taking care and then, slipping and sliding with tips of the screwdrivers, but the instructional part of the video was ok, so thanks for uploading, but please take care of the guns, they are only on loan to you in your lifetime, then somebody else will carry on looking after them, so try and give them as good a start as you can. ATB
"Use quality screwdrivers to avoid marring the finish" proceeds to drop tools all over gun....
literally the only thing i was thinking about.
I have a Uberti Cattleman 2 with the retractable firing pin, might wanna convert it back to the original design. This video will come handy when my parts arrives!!! Thank you so much!
Nice detail, thanks for sharing
Apparently there is a need for a video on how to use a screwdriver.
Wow, good video but I wouldnt let you in the same room with my SAA unless I had duct tape on your hands to prevent you from holding a screwdriver!
Is smashing it with a screwdriver required for disassembly?
If you're taking apart an Uberti Cattleman, watch out. There's a pin and spring behind the cylinder hand that is accessed through a hole above the left backstrap screw on the back of the gun.
Thank you. I was struggling for 30 minutes trying to get that pin in place.
Same with Pietta
Legend has it the guns finish is completely stripped and it’s dropped $1,000 in value
Good Info! Thank you for sharing
People making fun of this guys screwdriver skills let’s be honest we all been there
Yeah but we learned before we showed those skills to the world.
@@tomcopeland7418 honestly it’s the best learning experience I’m sure a lot of people harped on him for it and now he learned something because he showed the world
make a video showing very closely every detail of the weapon every hole every screw
Good information, thank you for sharing.
How do you properly tighten the cylinder pin latch, since it has screws on both sides. Two screwdrivers at once? I guess you'd need to put the gun in a vice to do that.
Is the barrel a different part or it is an integral part of the frame? Because in the air fun replica of the pistol it is a different part screwd and even it is well screwd it is slightly loose, still I am told that this is normal for an air gun.....
Lol watched this to see how to get to the loading gate and he left it alone haha
Lucky Gunsmithing, I badly need to know how to take off the loading gate, there seems to be no spring holding it closed and it keeps falling open.
Should be a small spring and screw.
Have 5o take off 5rigger guard. Screw and spri g under there
Can someone recommend the right screwdrivers for Uberti SAA. The slots in the screws are not as wide as the Colt. The Grace screwdrivers are too thick and do not full seat in the slot.
Good video but be more careful with your screwdriver
Great video man.
"Six bullets. More than enough to kill anything that moves."
Might want to start with the dude holding the screwdriver .
My pin is stuck and the cylinder wont come out, can I take it a part without taking out the cylinder
You can but I wouldn't recommend it. The problem will arise when you go to put it back together again. Likely the bolt will not want to reengage into the cylinder slot without some fuss. You're going to have to remove the base pin at some point anyway...so you might as well get yourself a base pin removal tool. Their not cheap but if you're going to own a Colt you'll want to avoid buggering up your base pin with a pliers or something. www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/takedown-tools/colt-saa-base-pin-puller-prod10997.aspx If need be...you might want to use some penetrating oil to loosen the base pin...just make sure it's something that won't harm your finish or wood grips if you have them.
I found that if you push that cylinder pin in and use it as a safety, when the hammer Falls, it will Dent the notch preventing the pin from coming out.
I had to disassemble my gun and use a punch to get the cylinder rod out and there is a little dent in there from the hammer pushing it forward.
Now I have a tiny barrel-shaped coil spring and pin that I have no clue where they go and I don't see him dealing with it either.
For anyone reading this and having a sticking cylinder pin, you can get a special tool from brownells that is specifically designed to remove the cylinder pin.
I have a base pin that is stuck so bad that I can't pull it out with channel locks- pin be damned! I will replace it, but how do I GET IT OUT?
Lon D
www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/takedown-tools/colt-saa-base-pin-puller-prod10997.aspx
The hammer on my grandpas isnt uh... fully.. hammering? It wont move far enough to strike. Does anyone know what the problem might be?
Without any additional details, I’m going to provide my best guess. If it’s an Italian clone, there’s a good chance it may have the longer, double notched cylinder base pin. This has two notches and is longer so that it can basically be over inserted and block the hammer from falling all the way. Try removing it, checking to see if there are two notches, and if so, reinsert it only to the first notch and see if that fixes the problem. If not, is there any mark at all on the primer? You may be getting light strikes which could be one - or all - of a couple different issues. Let me know if the cylinder pin solved it.
good info but painful to watch screwdrivers sliding off the screws... cringe
I wanted to know and see this detail of the dog up close > hammer how to make it stronger how to have a stronger beat
Die Bratwurst, ist vergänglich so wie eine Welle im Meer, darum nie den Senf vergessen zur Bratwurst! !
James I n
I would not call this a 'field strip' .... you won't do this in the field . This is more like a detail strip .
There are MANY variations of the 1873 peacemaker, whether it's the original Colt, the 1970s Virginian Dragoon, Ruger with adjustable sights, Uberti, who by the way, makes an excellent reproduction, & several others. The point is, they are all based on the Colt 1873 Peacemaker Frame (or the Army M1873 until almost the end of the 19th century) Incidentally, Ruger modified the design by removing the double leaf spring and replacing it with coil springs! However, I have made my own leaf springs out of feeler gauge leafs. But instead of ONE THICK SPRING like came with the gun that always breaks, I stack about 5 or 6 thinner ''feeler gauge leafs'' together! Which hardy ever break. Use a Dremel to make the springs, and keep and use the original hole in the feeler gauge for the screw. If you'd much rather replace the broken spring with store bought, go ahead. I NEVER do though.
LAST, I Always wrap a feeler gauge with 400 or 600 grit wet sandpaper and FIT EACH SCREW do they are ALL the same orientation. I've seen some gunsmiths do this, and ALWAYS put the screws back in the same hole.
A-L-L 1873 Peacemaker Frame based revolvers, of whatever brand, should ALWAYS LOAD FIVE (5) , N-E-V-E-R - 6 ! THIS WAY: Load one, Skip One, load 4, then pull hammer back all the way, then forward ''3 clicks'' closing the hammer on an empty chamber. For Example, this is why Ruger quit making the single action old model 3 screw, .22, .357, .44, etc and designed a transfer bar safety for the revolver because ignorant, inexperienced shooters kept loading 6 and accidentally firing a load! STUPID!
A-L-W-A-Y-S keep the hammer back ''1 Click''
''KNOWLEDGE'' is also a ''Safety'' !