Thank you very much to everyone who has watched this video, and several individuals who have commented or reached out about the dangers of using "play sand" in a blaster. When broken down, it becomes an extremely fine dust that settles on everything, is difficult to filter, and can impair lung function. I try to include information in a video when I feel we are doing something dangerous and I seem to have failed to do that this time. I cut out more than four minutes of voiceover late in the editing process for pacing reasons and the mention of Silicosis and the precautions taken must not have made the final edit. It absolutely is a concern and you all are correct to point this out. Every time I used the blasting cabinet it was outdoors or in the open garage doorway, the vacuum was running (exhaust pointing outside), and I was wearing a respirator for almost all of it. I would let the vacuum run and give the dust time to settle for a few minutes before opening the cabinet door after blasting. Still, it is a risk. Some dust may pass through the respirator, may leak out of openings in the cabinet, or may pass through the vacuum and float around in the outside air. Due to the health concerns and other reasons (moisture collection, less-than-ideal cleaning performance) I have removed the play sand from the cabinet and have not gotten a chance to try another media yet, but I found a local source for a well-liked alternative (Black Diamond from Tractor Supply). Again, I appreciate those of you that took the time to reach out and warn us about this! I will try to make sure to include more safety notes like this in future videos.
Black diamond is coal slag with all the heavy metals contained in coal. Moving into the wrong direction. Try garnet blast media instead. No heavy metals or silicia. Or glass beads.
I was rebuilding Mercedes Differentials and we always sand blasted the surface where the oil seal seals and then polished it up and never had problems with it. So it should work for you as well.
Always love watching your videos dude 👍 A word of warning though using sand in the sandblaster. The very fine particles produced as the sand breaks apart hitting the item being blasted can lead to silicosis of the lungs. Sure you have it inside a cabinet but there's still a possibility of this fine dust getting out and being breathed in. Play sand is also the slowest to use as a blast media because it isn't very sharp like coarse sand would be. Anyhow, crushed garnet is one of the best media to use and is totally inert. So far there has been no ill effects from the dust made using this product. Anyhow, just thought I'd mention this for your own safety 😉
Play ground sand has a high silica content which can cause silicosis. Get some blasting media from tractor supply or some local auto parts stores carry it.
There is only a handful of channels I actually anticipate posts for. This is one of them. I check every time I go on UA-cam for a video. These videos are just so good
Just wanted to give a quick tip on parts that are dimpled or cratered. I do a light sandblast to clean up the loose stuff. After you should have dark specks or rust on the cratered portions. Then I put the piece in a bucket of evaporust or comparable product. Let it soak overnight, rinse off the product, to then blast it again with glass bead... It comes out with a nice peened sheen and will reduce the cratered look, making it a bit more uniform
It's really nice to see you taking your time and doing the job properly. Some things didn't need such a thorough clean up but you did it anyway just to have the best results possible. When doing that much work, it's easy to get tempted to cut corners and you don't. (Let's ignore the sketchy parts and fabrication methods occasionally used). Thanks for another great video, I'm looking forward to the next one!
You were saying about purple power vs aluminum…. IF those had been polished, they wouldn’t be about 10 seconds later! 10 years ago…. Ask me how I know. :(
Really love the videos! It's great seeing actual restorations on UA-cam not just lamborghini rebuilds that never get finished. You make much more inspiring content that makes me want to get under the hood of an old classic 😁
Looking good, glad to see the update! Fyi- the balancer could've been polished with some 0000 grade steel wool, I know it's done at this point but just throwing it out there.
By far the most informative, detailed and entertaining channel about old affordable cars and working on them. Keep up with the videos! Greetings from Germany.
I say this with all due love and respect: UA-camr: "We're doing this on a budget.." Same UA-camr: "So we're going to put these in my sandblasting cabinet.."
Next time maybe dry the small parts in the oven and prime with self etch primer immediately. Blowing off with the air could introduce oil from the compressor or lines. Putting WD40 on them just means you need to clean them again before paint.
You're not wrong, but the nice thing about WD40 is that it washes off real easy, and the paint I used is pretty forgiving as long as you give it enough time to cure. I could have done that for small stuff like the timing cover but it wasn't going to happen for the block and heads so I figured they would just all get treated the same
Started as a cheap build, and it remains sticking to that as i can see for the simplicity of use what you have, BUT you get them looking REALLY good for being what they were. Most would just do a reseal and be done with it. This makes it look and i'd like to think, it adds some proffesionalism to the whole thing being nice and clean and painted up. Super thorough with it all. Anyone who's a mechanic ect needs to bring the same effort into anything they fix. Regardless if its the 200 dollar engine or the 50k engine.
Hey man, after sandblasting pitted surfaces you should definitely hit it with some rust converter. Even sand can't always get all of the rust from craters.
I've found rustoleum paints to do a pretty good job with very small amounts of rust in pits, but yeah a real converter would have been a good idea for that power steering pump pulley
Your comment about your parts washer pump being too powerful and splashing all over, well, you can easily see the problem with the design..... as a kid I went to work with my dad at a college where they taught automotive and one thing I worked a lot at was the cleaning tanks and they were very deep where you set the parts and it was because you had a lot of splashing the other thing that's really important is to have a good parts cleaner brush with very firm bristles, it will remove any type of Grease any type of sludge and it gets the job done fast!!! I would suggest putting a 30 gallon bucket underneath your parts washer and take out your grate then get a longer hose that goes to a parts washer brush and hook it up to your pump then the cleaning fluid will go right through the parts washing brush, another tip is to pick up 5 gallons of odorless paint thinner it makes quick work of grease and grime and has no odor!! 😃
Looks great! Are you worried at all about sandblasting the sealing surfaces? I've never done any of that before, but have seen others do it, and they were super careful about taping off anything like where a gasket goes or any metal to metal interfaces.
I feel like, if anything, the slightly rough surface may help with gasket sealing for areas like the intake manifold to the cylinder heads. I have used bare bead blasted manifolds before with no prep and no issues. Haven't had many chances to try these parts I blasted myself yet, though. So this is a good way to find that out!
My '78 Firebird Formula was on the one hand built like shit, but on the other it had the WS6 package, so it handled like a roller coaster, and the cockpit was well laid out. The engine...is best left un-mentioned. Bear in mind trhat some body parts from a T/A or a Formula of this vintage might not not fit a base Firebird very well.
I don't buy new unless the old is just useless from wear and tear. Put Glyptol on inner surface of timing cover. Front seal surface on balancer should be almost polished but not quite. I like the power steering pump pulley. It looks good.
You inspire me every episode. But could you please buy a harbor freight press for like $115. I guess we all need exercise but we could use less stress my dude.
Thank you very much to everyone who has watched this video, and several individuals who have commented or reached out about the dangers of using "play sand" in a blaster. When broken down, it becomes an extremely fine dust that settles on everything, is difficult to filter, and can impair lung function.
I try to include information in a video when I feel we are doing something dangerous and I seem to have failed to do that this time. I cut out more than four minutes of voiceover late in the editing process for pacing reasons and the mention of Silicosis and the precautions taken must not have made the final edit. It absolutely is a concern and you all are correct to point this out. Every time I used the blasting cabinet it was outdoors or in the open garage doorway, the vacuum was running (exhaust pointing outside), and I was wearing a respirator for almost all of it. I would let the vacuum run and give the dust time to settle for a few minutes before opening the cabinet door after blasting. Still, it is a risk. Some dust may pass through the respirator, may leak out of openings in the cabinet, or may pass through the vacuum and float around in the outside air.
Due to the health concerns and other reasons (moisture collection, less-than-ideal cleaning performance) I have removed the play sand from the cabinet and have not gotten a chance to try another media yet, but I found a local source for a well-liked alternative (Black Diamond from Tractor Supply). Again, I appreciate those of you that took the time to reach out and warn us about this! I will try to make sure to include more safety notes like this in future videos.
Black diamond is coal slag with all the heavy metals contained in coal. Moving into the wrong direction. Try garnet blast media instead. No heavy metals or silicia.
Or glass beads.
Can't wait to see the finished product. This is a good series.
Yeah right
It is a good series but he is taking to damn long to upload videos
I was rebuilding Mercedes Differentials and we always sand blasted the surface where the oil seal seals and then polished it up and never had problems with it. So it should work for you as well.
I saw the font on the thumbnail and immediately got VERY excited. Love your videos man, keep it up!
Always love watching your videos dude 👍
A word of warning though using sand in the sandblaster. The very fine particles produced as the sand breaks apart hitting the item being blasted can lead to silicosis of the lungs. Sure you have it inside a cabinet but there's still a possibility of this fine dust getting out and being breathed in.
Play sand is also the slowest to use as a blast media because it isn't very sharp like coarse sand would be. Anyhow, crushed garnet is one of the best media to use and is totally inert. So far there has been no ill effects from the dust made using this product.
Anyhow, just thought I'd mention this for your own safety 😉
The second tab on the timing cover I have seen those before they run a ground cable through it from the factory
Play ground sand has a high silica content which can cause silicosis. Get some blasting media from tractor supply or some local auto parts stores carry it.
I actually love doing this kind of stuff! I got into powder coating because of it.
Toinho
Toinho
Powder coating for the win!!👍👍
IF you can ever find a portable dishwasher for cheap you might want to pick one up......... They are great for washing automotive parts.
I've got one for free if he wants to drive to get it, probably not considering I'm in NY
rustoleum makes a sandable-filler primer. have had good experiences with it for filling pitted metals.
There is only a handful of channels I actually anticipate posts for. This is one of them. I check every time I go on UA-cam for a video. These videos are just so good
finally. just love this series
I really like to see other people working
Watching the transformation of those parts is incredible! Like a bought one as some would say. Great video - cheers
Yay!!
Yaaaayy!
Yaaaayy!!
Yaaaayy!
Yaaaayy?!
@@FuzzyDiceProjects Yaaaay!
Thank you for taking the time to show us your workmanship!
Build up primer will help hide the pitting. Finish with etching primer and viola…. Beautiful
Just wanted to give a quick tip on parts that are dimpled or cratered. I do a light sandblast to clean up the loose stuff. After you should have dark specks or rust on the cratered portions. Then I put the piece in a bucket of evaporust or comparable product. Let it soak overnight, rinse off the product, to then blast it again with glass bead... It comes out with a nice peened sheen and will reduce the cratered look, making it a bit more uniform
Are the cam bearings still bugging anyone else in the back of their mind?
No
Yes
yes
DO NOT USE PLAYGROUND SAND FOR MEDIA! VERY DANGEROUS!
It's really nice to see you taking your time and doing the job properly. Some things didn't need such a thorough clean up but you did it anyway just to have the best results possible. When doing that much work, it's easy to get tempted to cut corners and you don't. (Let's ignore the sketchy parts and fabrication methods occasionally used). Thanks for another great video, I'm looking forward to the next one!
You were saying about purple power vs aluminum…. IF those had been polished, they wouldn’t be about 10 seconds later! 10 years ago…. Ask me how I know. :(
Really love the videos! It's great seeing actual restorations on UA-cam not just lamborghini rebuilds that never get finished. You make much more inspiring content that makes me want to get under the hood of an old classic 😁
Looking good, glad to see the update!
Fyi- the balancer could've been polished with some 0000 grade steel wool, I know it's done at this point but just throwing it out there.
Takes time, but blasting and painting is very satisfying.
By far the most informative, detailed and entertaining channel about old affordable cars and working on them. Keep up with the videos! Greetings from Germany.
Can't get enough of these engine vids.
can't wait to see this thing assembled
I really enjoy these videos. I'm jealous of the space you have to work on these projects.
Great work it looks like it will come together and run like beast!!!!!
Using a power drill to chase threads... you’ve got brass balls my man.
He hasn't had to extract a broken tap yet he will learn thus lesson the hard way! Ask me how I know.
That was a very satisfying watch for sure.
You are a great story teller!. I thoroughly enjoy your videos. Keep up the great content!
I say this with all due love and respect:
UA-camr: "We're doing this on a budget.."
Same UA-camr: "So we're going to put these in my sandblasting cabinet.."
The dedication this man has to making his videos understandable and convienient to watch is amazing, truly great work dude.
Awesome as always. Keep up the good work 👍🏽👊🏽
You generally don't sand blast sealing surfaces, but maybe no harm's been done.
Gosh - that must be so satisfying! Seems the sand blaster is a great addition to the shop. But now every part will now need to go through it😂😂😂
Next time maybe dry the small parts in the oven and prime with self etch primer immediately. Blowing off with the air could introduce oil from the compressor or lines. Putting WD40 on them just means you need to clean them again before paint.
You're not wrong, but the nice thing about WD40 is that it washes off real easy, and the paint I used is pretty forgiving as long as you give it enough time to cure. I could have done that for small stuff like the timing cover but it wasn't going to happen for the block and heads so I figured they would just all get treated the same
I love watching sandblasting. So nice to just watch as stuff just gets blasted off
Started as a cheap build, and it remains sticking to that as i can see for the simplicity of use what you have, BUT you get them looking REALLY good for being what they were. Most would just do a reseal and be done with it. This makes it look and i'd like to think, it adds some proffesionalism to the whole thing being nice and clean and painted up. Super thorough with it all. Anyone who's a mechanic ect needs to bring the same effort into anything they fix. Regardless if its the 200 dollar engine or the 50k engine.
Please replace the cam bearings
Thank you for this satisfying and enjoyable update
FYI. Eagle One mag wheel cleaner will make that intake shine like new. I use it on all my aluminum parts after sand blasting.
It might be too late but you can use a wrinkle coat paint on the valve covers and intake
Американцы: У нас есть лучшие инструменты и химия для востановления
Вася сидящий в темном гараже: У нас есть Димексид.
Love your videos! Rule of thumb never sand blast machined surfaces. So excited to hear this motor fire up.
imagine an entire engine looking like it was sandblasted.
Congratulations on finally taking some pride in your work. Keep it up.
Tractor supply has really good prices on blast media
Looking GOOD!! Bud.
This looks like such a satisfying process to do, i'm jealous!
They make a sleeve to repair the harmonic balancer sealing area.
Love this serie so much !!
Hey man, after sandblasting pitted surfaces you should definitely hit it with some rust converter. Even sand can't always get all of the rust from craters.
I've found rustoleum paints to do a pretty good job with very small amounts of rust in pits, but yeah a real converter would have been a good idea for that power steering pump pulley
Timing cover cleaned: ✔️
I love your attention to detail!
With a pitted surface like that pulley, you can use a couple coats of filler primer. Then lightly sand smooth
Good job, looks like fun!
Your comment about your parts washer pump being too powerful and splashing all over, well, you can easily see the problem with the design..... as a kid I went to work with my dad at a college where they taught automotive and one thing I worked a lot at was the cleaning tanks and they were very deep where you set the parts and it was because you had a lot of splashing the other thing that's really important is to have a good parts cleaner brush with very firm bristles, it will remove any type of Grease any type of sludge and it gets the job done fast!!! I would suggest putting a 30 gallon bucket underneath your parts washer and take out your grate then get a longer hose that goes to a parts washer brush and hook it up to your pump then the cleaning fluid will go right through the parts washing brush, another tip is to pick up 5 gallons of odorless paint thinner it makes quick work of grease and grime and has no odor!! 😃
yes
I love this channel.
I love sandblasting stuff. I could sit at a cabinet all day.
I'm building a 1990 454 that I had in my one ton I got it back from machine shop last week hope to get it back in my truck soon
Yay new video! :)
Love the videos
Sandblasting is ASMR
I think the rubber in the harmonic balancer is shot....might need a new one....
Well now I really want a sand blaster
you had to use glass granulate for the aluminum parts, it gives a much better look! )
Looks great! Are you worried at all about sandblasting the sealing surfaces? I've never done any of that before, but have seen others do it, and they were super careful about taping off anything like where a gasket goes or any metal to metal interfaces.
I feel like, if anything, the slightly rough surface may help with gasket sealing for areas like the intake manifold to the cylinder heads. I have used bare bead blasted manifolds before with no prep and no issues. Haven't had many chances to try these parts I blasted myself yet, though. So this is a good way to find that out!
@@FuzzyDiceProjects Awesome. Well, thanks for the videos. I always enjoy seeing your progress!
Why not try polishing the valve covers and then clear coat them . that would look very nice!
Am I the only one who is excited for the Fiero when it comes out?
For that balancer you should be able to buy a repair sleeve from Felpro, 162691 I believe. Perfect for a low buck rebuild.
Awsome works!!
Powercoating pitted parts is better than paint you can lay the powder so you barely notice it!
16:21 love the comment. Enjoying the series!
Please confirm, soapy wooder?
Indeed, soapy wooder
Seals that stuck i would heat up the metal around it with a torch before hitting on it with a punch or pry bar.
Looks nice
Sandblast is of limits for engine components. A bag of steel shot is what is really needed.
My '78 Firebird Formula was on the one hand built like shit, but on the other it had the WS6 package, so it handled like a roller coaster, and the cockpit was well laid out. The engine...is best left un-mentioned. Bear in mind trhat some body parts from a T/A or a Formula of this vintage might not not fit a base Firebird very well.
Id paint the Timing Numbers and other Markings on the Engine White for more detail :)
I don't buy new unless the old is just useless from wear and tear. Put Glyptol on inner surface of timing cover. Front seal surface on balancer should be almost polished but not quite. I like the power steering pump pulley. It looks good.
I think he just needed a little rtv and he’d be set.
so they do make a primer paint that fills the rust pitting just use it under the engine paint
I run gen 6 heads on my mk 4 454 block. Not a lot of people know they bolt right up.
12:42 This rule applies to any and all other of stuff a guy already owns..
With sandblasting, faster is not always better anyway. :)
This engine getting TREATMENT fo shore
Gonna need you to crank these out a little faster. Haha good series
Fyi, use a heat gun for the pcv grommets in the valve covers....
Was that a fuel filter on the parts washer? That’s…really smart actually
Finaly 👌👌👌
You inspire me every episode. But could you please buy a harbor freight press for like $115. I guess we all need exercise but we could use less stress my dude.
Mineral spirits is better for degreasing, then follow up with a light wash with purple power to remove mineral spirit residue next time
Not safe to use play sand due to the airborn silica generated. Great vid tho!
What does a big block Chevy have to do with the Pontiac division?
Anyway, I would have used a Pontiac four hundred with some type of forced induction.
Sheeeeeeeeeesh
Shame you not got a hot parts wash