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The ONE Trick they Don’t Teach at Carpenter University!!!
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- Опубліковано 8 січ 2021
- This trick is an ace up your sleeve for baseboards and crown mouldings that get cut too short! I wish I knew it earlier in my career. I’m happy to share it with you and hope it proves helpful! If your painting your baseboards this is the easiest way to professional results: • How To Paint Baseboard...
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What’s w the crazy loud soundtrack? We just need woodworking advice
How do I handle floor molding transition from a tile to carpet surface? The tile is about 1/4 higher. Do I just line up the top of the molding and hope the carpet guys tuck the carpet under?
My wife bought me a laser guided power miter saw when we bought our first flipper/fixer-upper. It allowed me to miscut things with a lot greater accuracy.
😂🎉
Don't you love that! :D
What did you get her? Some cookware?
@@jomama3804 I got her a self-propelled lawn mower, like any respectable husband would do.
Haha! Then drink coffee - do stupid things faster with more energy!
I didn't have a belt sander, I just got in my car, and with my door open a bit, held the piece to the ground while I drove to the dispensary. Worked pretty good. Theres a rough edge, but you can't see it if you look from a certain angle.
Innovation can’t be stopped…😂
Best advice I've seen!
So what's the weather like in Florida? Lol
I used to sharpen knifes with a rock and a piece of glass.
I'd move
Good tip.
Also, I’ve found this is caused by the taper leaving extra mud at the bottom of the corner bead. Sometimes you can simply scrape the corner in either side with a flat bar and it’ll gain back that 1/16”, hopefully saving you a trip to the belt sander.
Excellent point
This is the way. We usually just smash the corners with a hammer to get rid of the mud buildup. Which is on 75% of the corners in a house.
Or measure to the sheetrock corner and cut the miter at 46 degrees. That extends the Long point out to compensate for the out of square corner. Also put a return on that short piece on the left and you will a better looking end as you're coming up the stairs. Caulk the top of Base , fill the nail holes and paint it. All done. Finish Carpenter
Please explain what a return is.
@@soniaskolnick3868 You cut a 45% angle on the end that goes into the stair string, and another small 45% returned into the wall. 2 part superglue works well for sticking the little piece on.
I always cut at 46 👍
That's what I do. Lol. Tried and true
I always cut at a 46 as well. I also cut both pieces about 1/32 long and put both piece in, nail the corner last so I can match it up perfect. Caulk the top, spackle the seams and nail holes, paint and it looks perfect
Best part: You’re a carpentry guru! Then it doesn’t fit! With the music and sound effects. I’m still rolling! 😂 I thought dude was totally serious! He got me good!😎
Thanks a lot Donald! Some fun was had making this video!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter
L🤫L Worthy of a Sub! 🤭
Hoping you were joking
@SEAL CYCLE lot quicker to cut a new piece
As someone who’s done carpentry for 16 years, (300+ pieces of baseboard just yesterday!) I can tell you that this “fix” takes 8 times longer than simply replacing the short piece. Even faster: remove the short piece and simply slide it 1/16” over and re-nail it. In this case the left side will now have a small gap but it will get caulked. Another tip: unless the baseboard is abnormally tall, or you have a fisher-price miter saw, you can usually stand it upright on the miter saw for cutting those angles; you don’t have to put the saw on a compound angle.
I'm not even a professional but yeah, I think you're right. You gonna tell me you don't have a piece of cutoff scrap in that length? Yeah, right. Just replace it, so much faster, or yes, move it over and caulk the straight gap.
Either way you’re walking back to the saw. So realistically maybe 1.2 times as long🙃. I like cutting on flat, especially with the Kapex. I made a video showing a handy tip that will work for crown, furniture kick, etc. You’d be wrong assuming I’d cut that piece short under regular circumstances. 🍻
@@TheFunnyCarpenter All I can say is that for me, in the time that it takes to prepare the belt sander I could’ve made the one to three cuts needed to make the piece. But if I were cutting with compound angles I’d consider using a belt sander IF it were already plugged in and ready.
I 100% agree with you. Just finished doing 1000 sq foot of trim. I just bring the saw in the house and make the cut. Lets be honest if worse I cut at 46 degrees and use DAP. This is over dramatic.
The context you said was it’s your last piece and you don’t want to go to the store. At this point your video is actually a great way to think of an alternative.
Just mark up the back of the skirting at the wall corner that’s your length and your 45 cut point, easy! Works every time.
Buy three times more than I need, cut loads then rage quit and put something in front of it. That's the way I roll.
Hahaha yeahh
Lmfao
I like your style. +1 UA-cam how to fix your F*ckups, proceed to big box store and buy new tool that has 0 to do with original problem. Come home and stare at unfinished bathroom with discontent for $$ you just spent on stupid stuff you didn’t need.
Yup. Hit it with a bigger hammer is how I roll LOL,
For anyone afraid of their ability to rectify the problem with sanders etc, sawdust and carpenters white glue mixed together fills up the gap and can be sanded off to perfection later
Yes, did same with pressure treated lumber
I use drywall compound sand, for painted boards obviously
Thank you! For novice people like me, who would keep cutting ends at different angles in an attempt to match , this if very handy. I don't mind using a "bit" of wood filler, silicone, etc., but learning tricks of trade to make the best fit possible, even if it takes a little more time is a great life lesson. This is a very good method of taking "just a bit at at time" to make it a very good fit.
Yes. I have been "a carpentry guru" so many times. I had mastered the art of measuring once then cursing myself many times. Great video. Thanks.
A miter gauge helps a lot and after installing 1000s of feet of this stuff over very crooked walls and floors it’s almost never straight forward, the scribe comes out to get your work to be as tight as possible. Being able to set your gear up as close as possible to your work area actually saves time and “sets you up” for really tight work. Using both a dust barrier be it zip pole or handy masker and film, and a vac on your tools allows you to work in lived in areas. Either way you are spending time and effort, I say, spend it efficiently setting up to work efficiently getting your best ever work, every time. Makes the time you spend doing this so much more enjoyable. This was funny as hell, keep up the great content homey!
Good point on the set-up. I always like to get into a nice space that isn't crowded and then set up all my stuff in the same orientation every time if possible. Thanks for checking out the channel, I appreciate it!
Joint compound. Works beautifully. Overfill gaps (along top and bottom too). Let it stick out a little for shrinage. When dry, damp sponge to flush in seconds.
No fluff no bs love these videos with the occasional joke from the funny guy
Thanks buddy
No fluff is the key word(s).. Too many videos are filled with 90% rambling about their skills or what others do wrong. This guy is a breath of fresh air
When installing moldings, always do the outside corners first and test-fit. If you're not positive about length cut a bit long then trim as needed. 45 degree angles are for casing moldings, baseboard is always 44 inside and 46 outside. Better to cut outside joints a hair long, fit both pieces of the base together with glue, then let the base float off the wall as needed. Top trick here: run a small vertical bead of caulk just back from the corner on both sides when assembling to prevent the floated corner from being pushed inward later on.
Stain grade requires more precise fitting so I keep a pair of roughly 16" long pieces of scrap base on hand with 46 cuts on both ends and use them to test the outside corner before measuring or cutting, if the 46 doesn't work use the scrap to test an adjusted angle. Hold them in place properly fitted and draw a line on the floor on both sides. Measure to the outside of those lines then erase them while it's easy. This makes each part one pencil line width too long and ensures a tight corner every time. Outside crown corners are done the same way. If the ceiling has finish paint on it,instead of a pencil line mark, lightly score with a razor knife instead and allow a hair extra in measuring.
Drywall corners are never finished straight and flat, they always curve some. Using the 16" test pieces ensures you are bridging that curve to where the finished piece will actually lay when installed. Using too-short test pieces will land you in that curve and cause errors. You can use a similar technique and 44 degree angles for inside corners. Just remember after finding the angle with your test pieces to re-cut them back to 46 or 44 before checking and fitting the next corner.
When I worked in the trade we just used the board stretcher...worked all the time. The real trick is not allowing this to happen and THATS where the art of carpentry truly is, and there is a few tricks to do that.
Here is some hints...items in your toolbelt; pencil, knife, 2 small flathead screwdrivers, finishing hammer, small sandpaper block, a small piece of trim cut at a perfect 45(both ends or have 2 with each having different end cut at 45), glue bottle and for last resort...measuring tape(seldom used)...HAVE CHOP SAW IN THE SAME ROOM AS YOU ARE WORKING IN OR VERY NEAR BY. When cutting, think in terms of heel and toe and in hair thicknesses. In the trade we often worked in pairs, one doing the sizing(measuring) and the pinning and the other the cutting. OH...and do the corners 1st and trim to size on the straight ends if possible. Most professionals will bead the top of the trim with silicone, white or clear, if wall is finished with paint or wallpaper.
Some good tips, thanks for the post.
So...realistically, you should never nail in the trim at corners until you test fit the pieces since it appears you might have cut the shorter piece on the left too short and positioned it wrong. I always pinch the corner and do a test and then nail with all pieces in place.
I always take my measurements on the wall at the top of the base. It helps minimize gaps. If an outside miter is closed at the top but open at the bottom I scrape any mud at the corner, if that doesn't work I plane the backside of base until miter closes. We always use construction adhesive so if I plane too much off it's no prob cuz the adhesive will act like a shim when it dries.
Woosh
Hold skirt to Wall on both sides, small pencil line on floor, strike through the points, (wall corner to pencil line crossing point) Bevel it and take to the mitre saw, measure from pencil to end, mitre cut, glue, then pin. But a very nice fix for a easy mistake we all have made.
I remember the first time I used a belt sander. I put the piece of wood on a work surface (not thinking about clamping it) . Put the belt to the board, and zing!! The board shot off the work table and into the wall, creating a nice hole in the drywall. Even more funny was my wife and I both watched the board as it flew into the wall . . just like you would see in a comedy show. We still laugh about this over 30 years later. One of the fun memories we have of building our house. That was a great tip.
lol great story thanks for sharing
made me laugh
Love this guy, He literally acts like I do at work
So you artificially inseminate horses for a living?
When I watched this video I was sure this guy was in my bathroom snooping around the woodwork. Your crack fitting was good, I use latex calking, and lots of it, if that doesn’t cover the cracks, all I do is put a small waste basket or vase of flowers in front of the corner, works every time. But I will try your method next time. E.J.
Know what yyyy;5
Bob Villa would be proud
Ha, Caulk n paint makes things what they ain't.
My late Dad was a joiner, learnt his trade in the shipyards on the Tyne in the 30's cut mitres, mortice and tenons by hand as cabinet making was part of his apprenticeship. No power tools in those days just real craftsmen.
That’s awesome! I like checking out houses from that era, the carpenters didn’t specialize back then so they would built everything on-site with like you said their hand tools.
I'm 67. Never had power tools till turned 35 and by then just DIYing (in heavy duty way for self, friends, and family. Bosch green range was mostly excellent
Lots of places sell nice miter equipment. None of them offers training on correct usage and calculations. You had me hooked in with the exasperation expressions! I have lived this......
Hmmm, now that I know this, leaving the tiny gap makes me lazy, instead of just unskilled.
Handheld Power planar is a great tool to use as well. Start with a deep cut at the mitre and reduce to zero as you move along the base. Less dust too!
for that little bit just pull the other off the wall a 1/16" and caulk it... done!
Cowboy 🤠
I.also do this occasionally. I always caulk trim to wall...cleaner edge for paint.
Make you right. Fart arsing about not needed..but if your doing top notch work like hardwood panelling your gonna get your bevel out to get those little mitres spot on.
@@douglas60040 so true, even post paint, no little grooves for dirt to collect. Also keeps bugs out and + insulation.
2:47 Nicely done, problem might be that such work in private homes is done only once. So people do not buy all the equipment and tools that usually only a professional cabinetmaker's workshop has?
This is a good trick. Most of the comments below reflect paint grade work. Try doing it with stained material. Sanding the back, and back cutting the miter works best. Remember that when the mud goes on the corner, its always put on heavy for 6-10". Thats the only part that needs sanding... Great vid
I have been a carpenter since middle school, professionally since I was 21, I am 37 now, and I still try to put myself around the old timers whenever possible so I can pick up tricks from them. I've not seen this trick done before; very clever. I am still learning.
I did my best and caulked the rest.
Cut angles first, then adjust the length of the pieces with straight cuts at the other end. Always cut a shade too long. You can always cut again.
Also, test fit before securing permanently.
@@kevinbedard27 thats what I did, it takes more cuts but it fits nice
Caulk and paint, makes a carpenter what he ain't.
Thanks for showing us how to remedy these base board corner joints, PLEASE drop the sound track, it just clutters up this useful information.
Fantastic and you capture the circumstances perfectly. and that breath exhale haha.
Its the last piece of baseboard :) or any task thats occurring at the end of a lo-o-o-ng day, a while between breaks, where you just drift concentration slightly. Then Mr Murphy strikes! he is always sitting on your shoulder. You recovered the situation and to give credit where its due thats where the mistakes provide sooo much learning. Keep up the good humour and good vids.
What's more effective than a good carpenter? A carpenter with good video skills. You are a hoot!
😁
Dude that intro was spot on!!!! I was getting frustrated jusr remembering. "I'm a woodworker with lots of expensive tools, of course it will fit!" Lmfao!!!!!! 👍🏼🤣
Thanks Andres I had fun making that video
Best thing about that video was when it ended!!!
This is where that sliding bevel mitre angle finder located on the back of the Kapex comes into play. Measure twice, cut once.
If I was cooking, I could just eat it and try again
Doesnt stop you cutting something short though does it.
KAPEX?
@@danrook5757 10X comment!
Measure 8 times, cut twice, patch with putty, then hope the paint covers it...
Recently kicked out a 10-year tenant and had to repair /replace a lot of stuff. I literally had to do exactly this when installing new trim. Nice video!
You kicked them out after ten years?
When you started on with the belt sander I was waiting for you to say "ok just kidding. Just stick a couple of popsicle sticks in there"
tack the two pieces together before nailing to wall.
Thats pretty clever
Great video! Block planes, even the tiny guys, work pretty good for board stretching too. It may require a bit of elbow grease depending on harder material but softer stuff like mbf, hemlock, n pine should b easy.
Brilliant! I been looking for various problem solving tips because I'm dealing with walls that are not flat, straight, or square. Back when they built my house, they finished the walls with 1/2 sheetrock and COPIOUS amounts of plaster. Patching or replacing drywall throughout the house has been the ultimate trial by fire since I'm self-taught and this is my first house.
This one was very good. Informative, short AND funny.
Thanks for the useful tip. Too bad I didn't learn it 20 years ago. The music could use dialing back a bit or eliminating. Near the end I could hardly hear you over the music. I don't think the readers will miss any of it.
Thanks for checking out the video, good points on the music, the sound mixing was terrible. I’ve learned a few things since then!
But your profiles did not match up, top bead is opposite of other piece, looks like two separate mouldings
Ghost Five bad camera angle, with two types of light
Love watching skilled workers and you certainly are one. You probably know that in the UK we call the base board, skirting board. Thanks. 👍🇬🇧
The name is logical, thanks for checking out the channel mate!
Great video and nicely done. You slayed that crooked wall with this technique. Total mic drop move!
Thanks Tuan:)
Interesting solution. A couple of other suggestions though.
Measurements are always subject to error. Better to hold the piece on the wall, then hold another piece of molding on the other wall (on top) and with a very sharp pencil draw a line on top of the lower molding to mark the inside point of the miter.
On the "short piece", you just cut the end by the stairs square. It ideally should have a return cut on the end and a return piece glued in, or depending on how you want it to look,
If you don't have an angle gauge to show the exact angle of the corner, a bevel gauge and a plastic compass (from high school) can be used to get the exact angle needed.
Bang on about returning the butt end. All the other butt ends in my house are done the same way, so I didn't want to introduce a new look. Marking the piece they way you suggest is a good suggestion for a piece or two, but it's no way to trim out a house or an apartment building. I just cut the piece short for the purpose of the video and to share a cool trick. Lol in reality I would be measuring and cutting to the 64th all day(unhumble brag). Thanks for checking out the vid!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter You'd be surprised how fast it goes. Just finished helping a friend of mine finish his basement, and the only time we measured was when the piece was an "inside corner to inside corner", and even then the measurement didn't have to be exact as one end is coped, and the other end left square for the next piece to cope into, so leaving it 3/16 short was fine. Granted, we had the chop saw in the room where we were doing all the cuts (or in the next area) so no great time loss going back and forth.
Cut 46 degrees on next piece to be installed, also base should t ie directly into skirtboard, if ya know what your doing. 🤔 Usually 20 degree cuts give or take a couple degrees. If you'd like use 2 pieces of dummy wood and mock up your cuts ,before final install
Great video - thanks. Wish I knew this when remodeling My Old House where there is no such thing as a straight wall or angle.
You can spot that from 10 feet..........Instead, fill the gap with Quick grab PL and use a small, scrap, straightedge to conform it as best you can to remove all excess.. When it dries, carve off what little is above plane and cover the joint with a coat of good filler. Maybe 2. Sand and it's perfect. No compromise at all.
Not a bad idea.
You are awesome! My rule is measure 4 times, cut twice and enjoy all the extra scrap pieces.
It's always nice to have scrap material for future projects:)
Absolutely. And also if your worried that your fire wood is too cheap you can increase your cost this way!
I’ve only been doing carpentry for 30 years but I have to say I’ve never seen anyone measure to the long point on a corner. Interesting.
Too funny
The painters will take care of that....
Caulk n paint, makes you the carpenter you ain't !!
THIS IS GREAT! people should take lessons on how to make youtubes from this guy!
OK..... I never would have thought that one through on my own. Thanks for the tip!
Belt sander is too much effort. I would just try for a closer fit at first, then carefully trim some with a blade. It will be fine. Btw I love the hopeless tragic face he makes when it doesn't fit. People who never work with tools just don't know how hard it is to accomplish things.
Block of wood at the stair end and whack it with a hammer until it slides over that 1/16". You will likely want some mud and wall paint to fix the dents in the wall when you miss the block of wood you are trying to hit.
dramatic soundtrack at the bad fit was hilarious,enjoyed it thanks
Thanks for the tips.... and the laughs during the video! Adding a little humor in made it even better!!! Thanks!
Thanks a lot Jason
But, the floor is uneven to the baseboard. Now, we take all the flooring up, and level it off to the baseboard. Now, the whole floor is uneven, tune in next week when we even out the whole house to the baseboards
Floors uneven so scribe the base, easy.
If somebody notices the tiny floor gap.....they need to find a new hobby.
First thing I do is scrap all the extra mud off the corner where the drywallers leave it built up making the corner out of whack.
bassfan41 the Richards little red bar is perfect for that task
When the sad music started playing I literally laughed out loud. lol anyways awesome video! Appreciate the tip!
Brilliant thanks. Doing some skirtings tomorrow, hoping I don’t need this but .....🙏🤔👌
Love the presentation and most of all-professionalism! I am a musician that also do most repairs at home myself due to lack of skills of many in the construction business... Sarcasm and music in addition to your skills are appreciated! :) You set an great example.
Thanks for the awesome comment😁
I played the recorder when as a kid, I'm a musician too!
Wow..... just wow
I’m a Union Millman by trade. We specialize in showcase and interior woodwork.
No journeyman worth his salt would have nailed either piece in place without first dry fitting. This is such a rookie mistake, and a backyard mechanics way of fixing it.
Back in 1973 when i was an apprentice, the old timers back then said I would someday see this kind of hog doctor work.
Boy they knew their chit, and I am grateful to have been taught the art by them.
If by hog doctoring you mean turning a mistake into a perfect fit, then thanks:). I appreciate you taking the time to comment, 🍻!
@@TheFunnyCarpenter
Hahahahaha.........yes you showed a resolve, but a good journeyman would have shown the proper way too.
I know by watching your videos that you know better than to make such a mistake.
Show the audience the right way as well.
All wood crafting is becoming a lost art these days.
BTW I get a charge out of your tool reviews too.....especially the Milwaukee vs Dewalt organizer video. Awesome comparison and shows your knack to inform snd teach.
Mike Morgan thanks Mike. It’s best practice not to make the videos drag on forever and cover every possibility. This trick comes in supper handy for me on prefinished cabinet crown moulding. Say the piece is 1/64 short. Then you can literally take a handy sanding block and shave off the adjoining piece and get a perfect fit when there ain’t no caulking or filler that’s going to save you.
Just watched 3 of your videos is a row, nodding to the things I learned, subscribed now, bring it on.
Cheers 🍻
hahaha... "the dark arts of carpentry" LOL. Very clever, great video!
Thanks a lot for watching!
That worked surprisingly well! I thought for sure you were going to pull out a protractor as they work surprisingly well as well ;)
Who doesnt stand up their base when cutting it ? Way more accurate and quicker than adjusting the bevel
Balls
I hate mounting base boards. There are so many things that can be out of whack. Floors might not be level, walls might not be flat and completely vertical. It’s very easy to end up with a gap. But this was a good suggestion to take care of at least one issue.
Plus you get the added bonus of working on your knees😢
This scene could be in a Hollywood movie..
Great job keeping it entertaining..
Well, you fixed the end-matching problem, but now the top edge reveal is tapered. (This will be noticed if you stand close to the wall and look down.)
Once it is caulked to the wall it will never be noticed.
This performance touched my soul. Thank you.
Your moment of reaction when looking at the poor cut was EXACTLY SPOT ON! 😂🤣🤣
That is awesome. I will keep this in mind. A lot easier than going back to hardware store twice before finally deciding the only option is to sell the house.
Haha:)
I would lay a nice TIG bead over that and grind it smooth with a flapper wheel. But I mostly work with metal so I could be wrong.
Must have screwed something up seeing you cut the two pieces out of the same board at the beginning of the video but the profiles don’t match on the last shot.
Ya my bad, it was a bad camera angle.
Clever. I would not have thought of it. Thanks for sharing. Very funny too.
cracked me up!🤣. happened to me the other day.. of cos they'll fit perfectly...silence.😅
Yup been there and then casually look around for the wife 😂
The best way to avoid this is to cut and glue/pin a mitred corner with pieces exactly 50mm long (wastes 100mm of board, but worth it in the long run) then fit it over the corner and measure back. Add 50mm onto each measurement and bingo! If you're working with "right" angles that are too acute, a couple of extra dummies made to fit these works. You can usually find offcuts which fit the bill. It's not always the best way but it works for me.
The end was so epic fits perfect 🤩
Thanks buddy
Or, glue and pin the corner together first. Then place it in the spot and pin it to the wall. When you calk the top seem it will cover any imperfections.
No. The short piece would still be too short and your gap would be at the other end.
I don’t watch your videos for the tips-I watch for the hilarious acting😂. Just kidding. I watch for the tips as well👍
Lol, would you believe I spent 7 years at acting school?.................(not true)
Oh to live in a house where things fit and switches worked. This made me laugh, some how i got here from custom truck interior. Just fyi, dont build a dash from expanding foam.
Or just do it correctly I've been doing trim carpentry for years and it baffles me on how people can do this and get away with it
My thoughts exactly
So glad to see this. I feel safe in the knowledge that the way I fixed the same problem 2 weeks age with an angle grinder and a flap disc, wasn't as bad as SWMBO told me it was.
A little “caulk” goes a long way!
Hahahaha
do not let putty be your buddy
I just let my kids run into the corners with some trucks and toys and it smooths it right out. :)
Beautiful corner grafting techniques.
I use a hand plane for this, great tip 👍🏻 I just done a load of oak skirting and had to do this a fair bit 😂
I’ve prayed to God about this exact problem
three wrongs don’t make a right.
wrong #1. replace the short piece, don’t be lazy.
wrong #2. there’s a gap under the short piece.
wrong # 3. the feathered base doesn’t look right from the top.
but i guess it’s good enough for you since you have to look at it.
hopefully it’s not for a customer, because they deserve better.
Replacing the piece is always option #1, but if you install things long enough you will have this happen on your last piece, and this trick will work awesome. Once you caulk the top of the baseboard to the wall, the difference of thickness is extremely difficult to pick up. Cheers and thanks for checking out the channel.
It must be nice to live in your perfect world
I just shoot the 45s together on the ground to make perfect angel then slide baseboard in. Go little long bc the cap will cover any gap between baseboard and wall
Excellent tip, thanks for checking out the video.
Put a beater block over it and smack it back in,,,,works for me everytime.i only bring out the sanding wheel when I'm coping Inside corners of crown,and leave the other side cut at 90.of you do it rite u can fit corners together when the walls r not square.and caulking goes a long way
🤣 @the sound effects. 🤣😂 Loving these 'dark arts' videos, so useful even to those of us who've been doing this kinda work even for decades... there's always some really useful tips to learn. Thanks!!
Thanks a lot Cathy:)
Wouldn’t it have been easier to just cut 1/16” off the other end???
No, because then both pieces would be too short. You want to maintain the overall length of the piece, but alter the thickness at the last 12 inches or so (in this example) so that you have some play to match the outside corner mitre up.
My "fix" is putting white caulk into the gap. Now you know why I don't make my living as a carpenter! But....it works.
I'll never find myself doing this, but at least I can enjoy it vicariously!
Thanks for watching!
i seriously cracked up at this video! You are my new hero!
... NEVER measure these cuts... always mark the back of the pieces held against the wall for the short point measurement, make your angle adjustment as per the video, and JUST take the line when you cut. You need a relatively fine saw blade to cut from the back and avoid tearout, but measuring the long point on base trim is a recipe for misery.
That being said, the spackle buildup on corners is a problem, and sometimes you do need to grind things down before the mark if it is extreme and caulk is not an option.
Measuring the front of the miters with a scrap piece is rock solid in my experience. I just cut the piece short for the purpose of the video. In reality that method of measuring can go for houses at a time without error. Any rate what ever works for you😁
@@TheFunnyCarpenter lol... I knew you missed on purpose... nevertheless, I avoid the tape when a scribe will do. Can't say I ever went one house without an error, never mind multiple houses, so hats off to you.
Paul Shepherd 😂I’ve trimmed out a few apartment buildings. When you have to cut 8 or so units from one unit, you end up getting pretty dang precise, otherwise you’ll spend most of the day walking around😬
@@TheFunnyCarpenter professionals don't use measuring tape for trim as a rule. Once in a blue maybe but nope...use the wall to mark the trim. We rarely screwed up as a result.
Interesting but you guys in the USA must not have heard of a carpenters Sliding Bevel or not know how to use one.
Cutting a mitre at 45 degrees will only work if the included angle of the corner is actually 90 degrees.
You have to bisect the angle - whatever it happens to be. So first you gauge the actual angle - you don't need to be able to quantify it with a number! Use the sliding bevel to get that angle (it has either a wingnut or screw to set it).
Transfer that angle onto the edge of a board and mark with a pencil. Mark off say 2" along each arm of the angle (that distance doesn't matter - its arbitrary) and then set up perpendiculars (lines at right angles to the arms of the angle at the 2" marks. The perpendiculars will intersect. Draw a line from that intersection point to the apex of the original angle and that is the original included angle bisected. If you use that bisected angle instead of 45 degrees, the pieces with fit properly - and you don't have to know what the actual angle is!
This dude sounds just like Joel from Mystery Science Theater 3,000. Maybe they are brothers or come from the same town.