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How Pros Cut Molding Inside Corners
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- Опубліковано 4 вер 2024
- When installing trim such as baseboard and crown molding, master craftspeople use this method - and you can too! Coped molding gives the tightest fit, best appearance and long-term durability.
You'll learn how and why it works, and how to cut a coped joint. This installation allows for corner variations slightly off 90° - and most are slightly wider or smaller than a right angle. This approach also allows for one piece of molding to be straight cut and the other cut at 45° and then coped.
For crown molding, having one piece of the trim extend all the way into the corner allows for structural strength and less movement over time.
It won't take long for you to master this approach, and when you do, you'll never go back to mitering both sides of the joint and counting on caulk and paint to fill in variations in the corner angle!
I’m a carpenter from the U.K. and I fit skirting boards and crown Mouldings often but this video is honestly the best to explain how it’s done properly. I use a jigsaw with a scribing blade rather than a coping saw but same thing applies. Thought it was great how you showed up close and explained clearly. Great video bud
Wow, thanks for writing and watching Tee Withey. A compliment like that from a craftsman like you carries a lot of weight. Thanks for taking time to comment. Best to you. DFJ
Same here, jigsaw with a special coping foot, and files. I have never even seen a coping saw used, haha, wow, that takes skill.
I use a jig saw for most woods, but on some soft woods like pine, I prefer the coping saw, especially on high profile curves parts
I struggled about 3 hrs trying to figure out how to cope my trim and messed some pieces up and this video here helped figure it out In minutes
yEAH HES GOOD!
This was a great "how to." You explained it clearly, the video had great close-ups, and you didn't ramble on about things that weren't part of the job. Thank you.
I've watched several videos trying to learn how to do this. The others make it so complicated, while you make it so simple. Thanks for a clear and easy explanation of how to cope those joints. I think I dare try it now!
As a carpenter I was taught to pull the saw up, not like he is using it by pushing down. Of course you have to put the blade in the other way. Here's an excellent video on how to cope with a jigsaw. This yoiung man was taught the trade properly: ua-cam.com/video/piejW3gebtk/v-deo.html
I used to like to take a cut-off of the moulding I was coping and cover it with adhesive backed sandpaper. This way if I needed to adjust a cope I could use the sandpaper covered scrap as a sanding block/ profile sander. The thickness of the paper didn't alter the profile negatively.
30 years experience as a carpenter here. The sand paper is an excellent trick. I use it all the time. I'm currently running stain grade base throughout a house right now so no caulk to hide slight imperfections. The sandpaper trick prevents slight imperfections completely.
I wish I would have watched this prior to installing my molding in my bathroom. It was quite a hack job. Thanks for creating this.
It's a pro technique. If you're installing this every day or week, sure. Most joints will be tight enough to where either paint or a little caulk smoothed out will go unnoticed. It's not a big deal to adjust your angle if you have corners that are way out of the 90 perspective. If you do this for a living and are doing it on high profile jobs in other houses, I would see this being a frequent technique
Thank you. Finally an explanation I can understand. You're the first one to explain "why" you need to make a back cut. Thank you for giving me that "light bulb" mental moment. Now not only do I know what is meant by "back cut", but now I know why some people say 30 degrees, others say 35, and still others say 45. It doesn't matter exactly what the angle is, just that there is a back cut of some kind so there's no material to interfere or prevent the front of the board from mating along the contours of the other board it's joining to. Excellent.
Kevin Kasper, thanks for watching and your kind comments. I'm glad you found this to be helpful to you. We are planning on doing a follow on episode that goes into a bit more detail of the overall approach of running base and trim, including coped corners, outside corners, and splices. Make sure you are subscribed so you catch it. Best Regards, DFJ
Nice job. Learned the trick many years ago from a master cabinet maker. You even showed the undercut which is such an important step - great job explaining it!
Now this guy knows how to make a UA-cam video! Lots of posts could take a lesson from this guy, informative, and well done!
Thanks, Jay. My husband is completely disabled, so, any work that needs to be done, I either do, as best I can as I’m also disabled, or hire out. I’d much rather try to do this myself. Those corners were just like you said. They perfect, my walls were not. I’m really glad I found you in You Tube. Thanks for the help.
We just did our Great Room and I asked Hubby how he did it - looked so good! He explained but I didn't believe him. Had no idea what 'coping' was. He flipped this video on his iPhone and we watched and WOW was I impressed. He said he learned that technique from His Dad 60 years ago and has done it that way ever since. I LOVE THIS GUY DirtFarmerJay - makes ME want to try it!!! SUBSCRIBED!!!
WOW! you made our day!! We love it when our viewers really appreciate what we do! Thanks for the sub! (I love DFJ too!). Best to you and your hubby, Dirt Farmer Maggie.
I’ve scrubbed the entire internet on how to cut crown mounding, and this, this is the video. THANK YOU! 🎉
Excellent - glad to be of help. Best, DFJ
You can also cope with a conical sanding bit on a dremel
Have you ever used a coping foot attachment on a jigsaw?
Ok now this is interesting. Which would you say is easier to handle? The coping saw looks nice and light.
I was taught to use a coping saw so thats all I use... especially if you are working with MDF.. doesn't take much to cut through that stuff.
I heard people use grinders and was wondering if you could just use a Dremel?
@@AdamSmith-dp3ei no I have not
Thank you. I tried this technique today, all four corners turned out perfect. Used an angle grinder with a flap disc instead of a coping saw.
That's a great technique too! We plan to make another video showing this technique in a little bit more detail and it will include the flap grinder approach as well. Thanks for taking time to write and for watching our video! Best, DFJ
Quality sound and delivery. I think you’re doing a great service with high quality educational content like this. Thanks!
Carpenter for 21 years here. Basically you're correct. One thing I'd modify is the angle of your back cut on MDF. It doesn't leave much on that leading edge. Tends to break away easy. Change it up to 10-20° instead. Go 45 on hardwood/poplar. Last...the direction of the blade in the coping saw I and many other guys have the other way where it cuts as you pull. But that's one of those things that can be done as you see fit. As long as it works thats all that matters in the end.
Kris, great insights. Thanks for taking time to share your expertise! Best, DFJ
I'm a recovering dirt farmer from Maine.
I just bought a Collins coping foot after 30 years of hand sawing .
I subscribed tonight 👌👍⚒️
conantdog- thanks for becoming a member of our viewer family! I'm not sure you can ever recover from being a dirt farmer! I've thought about getting one of those coping foots over the years, but never did. Would you write back to me at jay@dirtfarmerjay and let me know what you think about it? The best to you and yours - DFJ
Good steady hands for coping those joints, if I tried that it would be shaped like a question mark!
Easy to follow directions with a side of outstanding delivery. Thank you!
This brought home a lot of memories as I used to help my dad trim out houses during the summer when I was barely a teenager and this is the method I was taught for installing baseboard trim. Thank you for the trip down memory lane. You've got some great videos , keep up the great work!
Hey John. Thanks for taking the time to write. There is nothing more validating to us than comments from our viewers. Sounds like your dad taught you a lot more than how to trim a house. He taught you how to be a good human. Take care. DirtfarmerMaggie
Hi Jay thanks for helping me cope with this job, I'm going to have to cope with some other jobs by myself now.
Yea, I don't usually like to cut corners but once I 🪚 this method, I feel like I can cope with any problems on the job site.
I know a good carpenter when I see him working, you are a good carpenter.
Best and simplest example of coping I've seen... thanks
Michael, thanks for your kind words. We appreciate you watching our video and taking time to write. Best, DFJ
I definitely found this helpful, thank you. My boss has just been cutting 2 45s but this makes it look beautiful. I’ll definitely be trying to master coping.
I think you'll like the results. Best, DFJ
Best way by far and stays tight over the years instead of the caulk cracking and leaving gaps.
Thank you for clearly explaining this. You're the only one I've seen explain that the angle of the cut you are coping should be approx. 45 degrees.
heatblur1, thanks for writing - I'm glad this is helpful to you. Depending on the complexity of the pattern, you can cut shallower, let's say, about 30 degrees to leave more material, and make it easier to cut. Experiment a bit to see what works best for the material and project you are working on. Best Regards, DFJ
@@DirtFarmerJay Thanks again.
Had a coping saw just never knew what it was called thanks and I learned how to back cut
30+ years of new home trimming I used this method. Today you will see guys using disk sanders which if you have all day to do the job and are artistic, it may be fine. Piece work doesn't allow for such things along with the patience. Most coping saws sold today, IMHO, have not enough teeth per inch for an easy cut so I find more teeth per inch are worth the money.
Great job, sir.
Hearing from a craftsman like you about this coping method totally made my day! Thanks for watching, commenting and being in the trades!! Hats off to you Sir. DFJ
@@DirtFarmerJay You are very welcome but all I did was tell it like it is, lol.
Fantastic demonstration! My dad showed me and my 2 brothers this method… old school…there are many new ways to cope- using a miter saw-- I’ll stick with tradition…
This video was great at explaining and showing how to do it the proper way I have always did 45 because I didn’t know how to cope and didn’t want to mess it up but this video helped me do my first job with coping and man it looks good definitely going to take a bit to get use to and perfect it
As a new subscriber, I found THIS TUTORIAL to be extremely informative, well stated, easy to follow,. and brief & to the point.
Welcome aboard vas184777! Thanks for watching and subscribing! Glad we could be of help. Best to you, DFJ
I've watched a lot of videos on coping. This one by far is the best!
Erik - aw garsh! Thanks for watching our video and taking time to drop a note. Best, DFJ
Thank you! Simple and helpful, and you don’t assume your audience knows what you’re talking about already. Well done
Nice work,used the coping saw for awhile but now use an angle grinder with a sander head,does the same job in seconds.
For baseboard i cope with a protractor. as i do my measurements i also write down the angles then go to my miter saw and make my cuts. sometimes depending on how the tapers did their work you may need to shim a little like with crown but overall it's much faster than coping and looks just as good if not better.
Nope. It's gotta be coped unless you're working on tract housing. Then nothing matters anyway
The best and the quickest exaple I've seen so far.
This ROCKS!! My house, circa 1862 ( yeah Lincoln was President !) has NOTHING level or square, except some nails! Big Help! Thanks!
Formula Firebird - glad to be of help to you. One facet of molding installation that we didn't cover in this video is if the corner is out of square the "other way", that is one wall is intersecting the other running uphill or downhill to it. So, that would not open or close the gap as shown in the video, but would either open or close the profile at the top or the bottom of the molding. To address this, which happens a lot in historical homes, the cut to create the profile itself has to greater or smaller than 90°. A carpenters trick is to create a set of "pitch blocks" that include 87, 88, 89, 91, 92 and 93 degrees. Then you can set the block in the corner to gauge what the angle is and set your saw accordingly. We'll do a future video on this as well just in case this is not clear to you. If you are not a subscriber, be sure to subscribe so you'll get the notification. Best Regards - DFJ
Thanks so much. I haven't had to do this in a while and honestly couldn't remember how I used to do it. Good refresher course video.
Glad it helped!
Wish I saw this video before I put up molding a few weeks ago. But now I know. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
I’ve always wondered what “coping” is. Thanks for the excellent explanation and demonstration. 👍🏽
Glad I could be of help my friend. Keep watching and commenting PP Entertainment. Best, DFJ
Thank you for the straight forward and clear explanation. Great information here
Thanks for watching and writing! Best, DFJ
YES! Thank you for this tip! Was racking my brain trying to get perfect angles for crown molding on old wavy walls and non-90 corners.
Glad we could help Walter Ear. Keep watching and commenting. Best to you, DFJ
Thanks for the straight-forward and easy-to-understand format!
Glad to be of help.
Great video.
As someone who has installed hundreds of thousands of feet of base; this video is great for a DIY and guys coming up in the trades.
Thanks for watching and commenting Alamyst2011. Best to you, DFJ
Skilled craftsman..one thing missing in the description..the saw blade is at a right angle to the handle..makes all the difference in seeing where your are cutting.
I missed it also, great idea!
Thanks Jay! Clear, concise instruction.. just what I was looking for.
I've been coping baseboards, crown mold, chair rail and shoe mold for over 35 years. Like the title says, The Way Pro's cut inside corners on moldings. 👍
Fantastic video! I’ve mastered it now after a few tries. I’ve been trying to figure this out for a bit now whenever I have a house project come up. I’ve never had it explained so well I shall pass this knowledge on. Thanks for adding to my mental tool belt!
Good video! Can't believe how many videos show to just do a 45 degree for an inside corner. On an old house, there ain't nuttin' square! This is how I learned to do it. These days, I use the coping saw to get close and then a Dremel tool to get it exact. Thanks for the video!
I never thought of using the Dremel for the fine work. Thanks a lot!
Michael, good to hear from you. Indeed, this is why I really like this method - it allows you to account for non-square corners- which is more common than not. I like your hybrid approach using both the coping saw and Dremel. We are doing another edition of this video and we'll feature your idea. Thanks for taking time to write. Best Regards, DFJ
@@DirtFarmerJay Thanks for the kind words. However, I can't take credit for this "hybrid approach." I learned it here: ua-cam.com/video/hV91HbUntmc/v-deo.html
I watched so many videos trying to understand coping, this is the first video best explaining it!
Thank you!!
Glad it was helpful! Keep watching and writing!
6th mitre cut video I have watched and this one is the clearest on how to perform the cut 👍👍
Glad it was helpful! Best, DFJ
I do this for a living and i must say your demo was spot on 👍
Robert - thank you! We appreciate you taking time to share your insight as a trades professional. Thanks for watching our video and weighing in! Best Regards, DFJ
Best explanation and demonstration of coping I've seen on UA-cam. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and commenting. Keep it up! Best, DFJ
This is the best way. Some customers insist we miter the inside corners and we do what we can to talk them out of it. 😁 In our company we use a jig saw with a scribing blade. It is very quick and works every time.
That's a great idea! Love to hear suggestions from craftsmen like you! Thanks. Dirt Farmer Maggie
I did this with 1/4 round. Fits very nice.
Glad to hear!
That's how you explain a Cope joint. Well done Sir.
This is amazing, ty! I'm about to install a chair rail and this is exactly what I was looking for.
Outstanding. I like personality. Great getting your instructions...spot on.
Thank you kindly!
Thanks for the video. I'm using the same pressed board material. The coping saw very easily rips it apart leaving a messy edge. Will take some practice as you suggest.
Thank you for the clear instructions! This should help a great deal when I hang some crown molding in the next few weeks!
Hi DFJay,
Great video! Had to replace all the moldings in one of the bedrooms, and I had the joints looking perfect after a couple of practice runs. Thanks!
Christine Erickson
PS I also used the tip from someone else here about putting sticky backed sandpaper on a piece of scrap. Worked really well.
Christine, great to hear this worked so well for you as well as the sandpaper trick. Thanks for writing! Best, DFJ
The sandpaper trick is the ultimate
Wow, I had my nose out of joint after failing so many times to get trim to fit. I had not been coping too well and I appreciate your pointers.
Glad it helped!
Great instructional, one item you forgot ro mention is the moulding still needs the inside corner mitre cut to set the profile up for cope. But i agree, its a great way to obtain tight-looking corners.
Thanks, Paul. We are doing another edition of this video, showing house to lay out the corners and splices in a typical room. We'll make sure to include that information clearly. Thanks for the nudge! Best, DFJ
I'm going to buy a coping saw today. What a difference! I've been struggling with the chair rail all day!
How did it go? I hope you are having a very positive result! Best, DFJ
@@DirtFarmerJay So nice to see your response, I was quite surprised. I bought the saw last night, and haven't used it yet to cut a real piece. I'm practicing first. Thank you so much for posting that video. All the other videos make it look so easy, without telling you why it looks so nice.
Superb Pops!!!! 5 Star!!! Now Im gonna teach our expert moulding installer that trick so he wont mess up again. Thanks!
Thank you for showing off one of my dad's secrets of his trim carpentry expertise. Most sheetrock corners in modern day suburburbisl housing developments don't have a true 45 degree angle. That can easily be proved with just about any square
Captain Obvious most don’t have 45 degree corners, much nearer 90 degree.
This certainly not only applies to newer homes but older homes as well. Things settle and shift over the years and can be quite a challenge to match up with.
A VERY GOOD DEMONSTRATION, WELL DONE , THANK YOU!!! KEEP THEM COMING !!!!!!
I use a jigsaw with a special "coping foot" that isnt flat, it is curved. This enables you to handhold the guide of the jigsaw and use a scroll blade to get real close to the line. I then use varying files for the curved profiles, including a triangular shaped file and two round files of different diameters. I never have to use a coping saw, but I do love to see one used. I am terrible with a coping saw.
There are many that use the approach that you do. Thanks for watching and writing! Best Regards, DFJ
30 years as a professional carpenter here, replying on my wife's account. I have a jigsaw set up with a Collins coping foot also. Lately though I've been using my table saw to cut to the profile line and I really like that technique too. But I don't use files or rasps. I take a scrap of the trim I'm coping and apply spray adhesive to it and some 180 sandpaper. I use a putty knife to ensure the paper fits the profile exactly and tightly. Then I hold the sanding block I made as if it were the piece I'm mating the coped cut to and in a few passes I've made an exact fit. I especially like this technique for stain grade trim because I can't rely in caulking to hide any slight imperfections and the joints always come out completely perfectly. It's almost too easy and I almost feel guilty when people in the trades compliment my work.
THANK YOU!!!! Great info! I am on my way to buy a coping saw and then it will begin! Wish me luck!
You can do it! Let me know how it turns out. A little practice goes a long way. Best, DFJ
Thank you so much! This was a clear concise explanation. You made it seem so easy. I too, watched other videos that made this look so complicated and as a female I was growing very frustrated. I now can't wait to try this.
I’m sure males would get frustrated as well
@@michellelemon6545 Lol. I'm using my wife's account to reply and I'm male. But yes, I've watched some videos here on youtube that needlessly complicate the process.
You can do it. It's not hard.
I've used this method many times and it is quick and easy. I use to cut the straight section with a tenon saw to speed it up and always cut them a 1-2mm longer to push the joint in tight.
You can see the undercut better if you view the molding from the bottom
Subscribed, awesome video. The reasoning and instructions you gave made this clearer than all other videos I watched.
best video on this topic! Very much appreciated!
Thanks tang fish. I appreciate your comment. Keep watching and commenting! Best, DFJ.
As a finisher for almost 13 years now.. coping is best served for hardwood baseboard and baseboard over 5 inches.
Crown moulding can be done both ways with varying levels of success.
Here's the deal - for paint grade baseboard, you don't cut your inside miters at 45 degrees. You cut them at 42-44. I swing my saw where ever is comfortable in that range. My inside miters are always tight and if there is a wall with some off looking angle I use my miter angle/degree finder and it turns out nice. Coping takes a while and is often not worth doing if you've got 35-40 inside miters some typically small pieces behind doors (1 or 2 inches long), that would be a pita to cope. When you've been doing it this long it's easy to remember - undercut your inside corners, overcut your outside corners.
For those short pieces you mark it, cope it, then cut the square. I agree about the efficiency though. Angle finder is fast and produces good results. I will always cope if I can, any chance to spring load baseboard into place keeps a tight joint for longer (as long as you dont bust the corner tape in lol)
Damn! The one part of this technique I was struggling with is the miter cut on the crown molding. And the one part you skipped over! Aarg!!!
Dr. David, thanks for the feedback. We plan to do another one with more detail in the future, and I'll make sure to include that detail and approach. If you like, you can contact me at jay@dirtfarmerjay.com and we can discuss more detail or do a call that could help you more. Best, DFJ
This is the absolute best video on this thank you!!!!!
Your skill with a coping saw 😳🤯 well, I have more confidence to do my baseboards now, thank you!
Thanks for watching and commenting Ashley Herrera! Glad I could be of help to you! Best, DFJ
I have this saved as I am installing laminated flooring in my living room and hallway and will be replacing the baseboard. But needed a refresher and clarification on the process. Knew but have never done this.
I'm a master carpenter with 43 years experience and this is how I was trained to do inside corners. I still do it like this today. However, I have a compound miter saw and cut my crown molding flat now. Ain't technology great!
Thanks for your insights jason krohmer. We try to show techniques that use basic tools for those who are just getting started and may not have power tools. (Yes, technology is GREAT!) Best, DFJ
@@DirtFarmerJay Like many others here, I dig what you're doing. People who are never going to do this for a living still should access to these common and useful techniques.
If you are inept like I am, cut it close then "Dremel" the last bit.
Yeah, me too. I'm a better grinder than I am cutter.
I do almost all this except I have the saw cut on the pull. I find pushing that tiny little blade can flex, where as a pull you have excellent control
You are so right, Jason M79. I do the same. Best, DFJ
My boyfriend kept thinking we were getting our cuts wrong they were right our walls in our old house are not 90 degrees. We are heading to go get a coping saw now! Thank you thank you thank you for this awesome video! It helped me tremendously!
Kelly, thanks for watching our video and taking time to write. Let me know how this turns out for you. Coping takes a bit of practice, but you and your boyfriend will get the hang of it quickly! Best, DFJ
I was a little worried about tips for baseboard and crown molding from someone called dirt farmer 😂 great tips, thanks
Right on, Ant Man! Glad you took the risk. I trust you found the info to be helpful to you. Best, DFJ
Great job I forgot how to do that no longer am I working I’m retired and I was trying to do it at my friends house and I totally forgot thank you for the memory
OMG... Thanks for a great video.. I was able to follow and install crown molding in three rooms this week. 👍🏻🙌🏻✨
Best close up of coping. Thank you!
You're welcome!
Caulk. Emphasis on the aulk
Well done. Informative with no yammering.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Best to you..."no yammering" Jay!
Wow. The mystery is revealed. Thank you so much! First I need a 45° and then cope at an 45° opposite of the cut 45°?? Please explain for inside and outside left and right. I cried trying to work with ornate 3 in crown moulding.
Loved your explanation! Made it easy to understand!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you. I love the way you break it down and methodically explain it.
Glad you like it, Randy. Watch for another episode on this topic using other approaches. Best, DFJ
I invested in a digital angle finder, 20 bucks.. and with my Milwaukee chop saw, i dial in the angle on the digital read out.. and bam.. perfect inside and outside corners.. but thus method is good too..
K Z - love it. I'm really enjoying the array of tools that are becoming available at really reasonable prices. Sounds like you are a handy guy - we need more people like you! Best Regards, DFJ
That's really great of you Sir to take this so nice and slowly. Gonna get my baseboards perfect this time, starting tomorrow. Need to check some outsides as well to get perfection. Many thanks!
Thank you for the detailed explanation and great videography. Very helpful and you are an excellent teacher!!!
That’s the best like to dislike ratio I’ve ever seen on a home improvement video. Must be good advice!
Indeed, any trade practice is going to have those that love it or have another way they really like and will promote. This platform allows for spirited conversation as well as other techniques to be featured. Thanks for taking time to write! Best, DFJ
TjBoRcH definitely the best ratio I’ve seen...some great advice..can’t see what this guy did or didn’t do to deserve people to dislike this video
@@DirtFarmerJay "Spirited conversation" is a nice way to put it 🤣
I have none of the tools needed but a small saw and an angle grinder. Without knowing what I was doing I determined how to get them to meet. It was a few sections of molding on my patio. I did the same undercutting by using the edge of a sanding pad on the grinder.
Right on! I like your ingenuity. Thanks for writing. Best, DFJ
An add on tip is to take a sharp pencil and trace along the edge of the profile. Leave that pencil line as you cut and then file or rasp the rest. It's more of a beginner tip.
Also, use a round file for the curved profiles.
John, great insights. Indeed, there have been times that I have highlighted the edge of the profile, just as you describe it, to give more visibility - especially in low light. And the tip about using a round file is great too. Thanks for writing! Best, DFJ
30 years as a professional carpenter. On stained base I use the same trick with the pencil too. Often the stain is absorbed into the grain and the profile edge is not visually crisp like with paint grade trim. I find it very helpful. Also, instead of a file or rasp try using a scrap of the trim with 180 sandpaper adhered to it. Use a spray adhesive and a putty knife to ensure the paper conforms exactly to the profile. Then use the sanding block at 90 degrees to the coped piece as if you were mating it in the install. The coped piece assumes the exact profile with a few strokes. I use this technique all the time but it's especially useful when you're doing stain grade because you can't rely on caulking to cover any slight imperfections. It literally has to be a perfect fit. Cheers.
Angle grinder with a flap disc twice as quick.
Robert, thanks for commenting. Indeed, there are many skilled tradespeople that use the technique you describe and I will likely demo it in a future episode. Thanks for taking time to write! Best, DFJ
Fantastic video. My dad showed me this years ago but I’d forgotten the back bevel part thanks!
Glad it helped! Best, DFJ