Proper “break in” of these generators is key to a long service life. Check out this noise reduction box ua-cam.com/video/hPr-bSrVt2M/v-deo.html 🔴Follow on Instagram: instagram.com/mrfredsdiy/
Thanks for watch the video! We recently made a video about the Trans Am. You can watch it here➡️Welding A Radiator?-1977 Trans Am ua-cam.com/video/6Lpiq4kkmro/v-deo.html
My Generac 4000 Xl I bought 25 years ago, I just put oil in and have been using it since. Starts first pull. I do change the fuel once a year and add stabilizer, fire it up for about 30 min then turn off the fuel and run out the gas from the carb. I just bought a new 9700 Predator inverter Generator. Im sure its not built like the old Generac, but I will give it the extra TLC and it gets Mobil one 10W -30 Full synth. I will let it run for 8 hours on idle and change the oil. Next time it runs it will be connected for a power outage as it will only run at about 50% of load after 30 hours total or once a year I will change the oil again and I will call that a super duper break in. Hopefully with the same treatment from then on, it will last over 25 years as well.
It helps that the 4000XL is a pressure lube system with a real oil filter. I have one I bought over 20 years ago and I now have racked up all of about 15 hours on it. I did the break in with standard oil and then switch to synthetic, changed it again at about 10 years just because. It took us through one miserable summer blackout and I figure it earned it's worth that one time.
Hi Mr Fred...like your video but I was always under the belief that you should NOT use synthetic oil for break in. The reason is that S oil is actually too slippery and does not allow enough friction mainly between the the piston rings and cylinder walls to seat. Petroleum based oil is best for this. " Even if you plan on running synthetic oil, you should break a new engine in with a conventional, mineral-type engine oil for the first 4,000-plus miles. If you fail to follow this procedure, the piston rings may never seat." This is for a car engine but the same principle applies. Thanks for posting your video.
Thanks for watching the video and taking the time to comment! The use of synthetic for a break-inIt is controversial for some folks, however Com Cams break in additive is compatible with petroleum, synthetic and blended motor oils. In the end, I suppose it boils down to personal preference.
@@MrFredsDIY thanks. I'll check it out. I have a break I question. I have dual fuel generators I just ordered. Is there any difference if I break in using propane instead of gas? I don't plan to use gas in either of them.
I followed your advice and swapped in the champion spark plug mentioned in the video. It seems to be working fine. It's readily available as you say, and now I can use my US spark plug adapter, which is nice.. My concern is that I can't find any cross reference for it now that it's installed. Should I be concerned?
Is it normal for the magnetic drain to have some black on it after running it for 20 hours plus a day? I already changed my oil 3 times and still keep getting black on the plug but the oil itself looks clean with no flakes
Synthetic is fine for break-in for small engines as long as you use the additive. The additive contains the minerals that assist the break-in. The entire point of this exercise is to run the engine at various intervals, introducing minerals along the way and changing the oil.
Yes use SAE not synthetic..... The manual that came with mine states this also! Usually you run conventional (dinosaur oil) during the break in period some use it for the first oil change as well (I do personally) then you can use synthetic. This was the method I used to break in mine and as of now it's sitting at a little more than 150 hrs of hard running I'd say (running an AC , fridge/freezer, TV, router, a couple of box fans, and sometimes an Xbox series x.
My generator starts, speed up and then shuts off! I changed the spark plug, clean the filter, I even changed the Ignition Coil Module, and still having the same problem! any suggestions? thanks.
You actually should not use synthetic oil for a break in. Because it protects so well, that it can prevent proper break in really. What should be used for break in his a high mineral low detergent oil, so that the mineral fuse to the new metal, rather than detergents.
That’s Fred Jr’s baby! 77 with the 6.6. After it cools down this fall, (today’s high is 117°) maybe we will do a walk around on it. It has some cool mods!
I just bought one and did change oil after 2 hours and after another 2 hours runn time. I did see alot metal parts in the oil. In the manual it say nothing about changing oil thisbrapid to clean the engen for metal parts. Is this bro sience or super important?
First,thank you for commenting! Proper engine break-in is rarely addressed by companies that sell small engines such as these. Even car manufactures tend to gloss over proper break-in. Honestly, even with a brand new car I would do something similar to the process in the video. Sadly, with small engines like these I have found that the quality controls in the factories where they are made is a bit lacking but doing a thorough proper break-in hedges your bets to have a longer engine life.
@@MrFredsDIY thanks for you'r time to answer. I will defently change oil on it a few more times before pushing it harder. I just order a magnetic dipstick to. And the oil change is so easy, sp why not do it? 😊 is there anything else i should think about when it comes to maintence?
I have this generator, starts right up, puts out very nice power very clean, I checked the sine wave excellent, however what I don't care for is it vibrates too much, I'm afraid that overtime the electronics and wiring will take a toll from the vibration, I have a larger generator and a smaller generator neither of which vibrates so much.
Can someone help me understand why the owner's manual for my dual-fuel Westinghouse generator does NOT talk about an extensive break in process as described in this video? It only says not to go over 50% of its rated capacity for the first 5 hours, and to vary the load occasionally to allow strator windings to heat and cool.
First, thanks for watching the video! Second, your question is the exact reason why I made this video. In my opinion, this is where most generators fall short. A complete and comprehensive break-in is crucial to a long productive life for a small engine.
I just bought a sportsman 4000 duel fuel. Probably not as good as a predator but oh well. I broke mine in at first 20 min run time, 45 min and 1 1/2 hr run times. Then il do it at bout 3-4 hr run time. The first 2 changes there was some nice glitter in there and barely anything on the 3rd one
A very brand new subscriber...... as it pertains to the break-in.......the compcam was used "per instructions". In determining how much I needed to order.......I looked for a place on line that has a picture of the back of bottle in order to see what the instructions actually were......can you help with this need? Even if it is a link of where I can see the back label/instructions. Thank you very much...wOULD REALLY WISH TO TALK ON PHONE BUT COULD NOT FIND AN EMAIL TO OFFER MY PHONE NUMBER.......LOVE YOU CHANNEL!!!!!! 😇
Engine break in oil for 30 minutes no load run time, then one hour with a small load, 2 hours with a greater load, again at five hours with more load. I can't recommend Champion plugs, NGK always a good choice. Don't forget to check the spark arrestor at about the five hour mark.
Hello. Your video was very useful. We just purchased the same generator today and have begun the break in process. We have done the 2 hour break in/oil change. We are currently working on the 4 hour mark now, which brings me to my next question. Dis you do all the breaking in time periods back to back? Or dis you use the generator as needed and changed the oil when you were done using it and at the 8 and 16 hour time mark. We have the 8 hour and 16 hour oil change to go.
Thanks for watching the video! Our break-in was done over a few days, idling and with a load (cycling between). There is no reason that you couldn’t finish the break in with “regular use” as long as you track the time, vary the load, use the additive and of course change the oil at the intervals.
@@MrFredsDIY Hello, how do you alternate the idle and load run, 1 hour idle and 1 hour load run? What kind of load would you put for the load run? Thanks
Sorry well no I"m not - You buy the expensive schaeffer oil ( that you use for the older muscle cars ) and use that for breaking in the gen set ...OK cool THEN you recommend an old Champion plug LOL tell me is that brand you put in Trans AM .... thanks LOL
I’ve never heard of anyone recommending synthetic as a break-in oil. Synthetic prolongs ring seat and the break in period as a whole. Run synthetic afterwards. Just my opinion.
Thanks for checking out the video! Com Cams break in additive is compatible with petroleum, synthetic and blended motor oils. Modern small engines like the one in this generator are designed for the use of synthetic motor oil. I would never break-in with a super premium synthetic oil like Schaeffer’s, rather, I used the cheapest one I could find since I was planning on using it after break-in.
I have a HF 3500 and I like it a lot, breaking it in over 25 hours is key ! I found removing the exhaust “cone” helps a lot when breaking it in, because you really shouldn’t run it over 2000 watts, and at that low speed, for the first 25 hours, it tend to run rich. Funny how out of all the places in your campground you had the exhaust pointed towards a dry bush 😀
Thanks for taking the time to comment! Las Vegas sits at 2,200 feet elevation and we regularly use this generator at 7k plus without issues. Perhaps newer models have more issues than this one.
Proper “break in” of these generators is key to a long service life. Check out this noise reduction box ua-cam.com/video/hPr-bSrVt2M/v-deo.html 🔴Follow on Instagram: instagram.com/mrfredsdiy/
Stopped listening about the generator when I saw the Trans Am. Beautiful !!
I have a Predator too. Great generator.
Thanks for watch the video! We recently made a video about the Trans Am. You can watch it here➡️Welding A Radiator?-1977 Trans Am
ua-cam.com/video/6Lpiq4kkmro/v-deo.html
My Generac 4000 Xl I bought 25 years ago, I just put oil in and have been using it since. Starts first pull. I do change the fuel once a year and add stabilizer, fire it up for about 30 min then turn off the fuel and run out the gas from the carb. I just bought a new 9700 Predator inverter Generator. Im sure its not built like the old Generac, but I will give it the extra TLC and it gets Mobil one 10W -30 Full synth. I will let it run for 8 hours on idle and change the oil. Next time it runs it will be connected for a power outage as it will only run at about 50% of load after 30 hours total or once a year I will change the oil again and I will call that a super duper break in. Hopefully with the same treatment from then on, it will last over 25 years as well.
It helps that the 4000XL is a pressure lube system with a real oil filter. I have one I bought over 20 years ago and I now have racked up all of about 15 hours on it. I did the break in with standard oil and then switch to synthetic, changed it again at about 10 years just because. It took us through one miserable summer blackout and I figure it earned it's worth that one time.
Hi Mr Fred...like your video but I was always under the belief that you should NOT use synthetic oil for break in. The reason is that S oil is actually too slippery and does not allow enough friction mainly between the the piston rings and cylinder walls to seat. Petroleum based oil is best for this.
" Even if you plan on running synthetic oil, you should break a new engine in with a conventional, mineral-type engine oil for the first 4,000-plus miles. If you fail to follow this procedure, the piston rings may never seat." This is for a car engine but the same principle applies.
Thanks for posting your video.
Thanks for watching the video and taking the time to comment! The use of synthetic for a break-inIt is controversial for some folks, however Com Cams break in additive is compatible with petroleum, synthetic and blended motor oils. In the end, I suppose it boils down to personal preference.
Forget the generator for now...that a nice Trans Am sitting back there
Here is a video that Fred Jr made for this Trans Am ua-cam.com/video/6Lpiq4kkmro/v-deo.htmlsi=GyDqtrSf1LRZuYoS
@@MrFredsDIY thanks. I'll check it out. I have a break I question.
I have dual fuel generators I just ordered. Is there any difference if I break in using propane instead of gas?
I don't plan to use gas in either of them.
@aholmes6612 I wouldn’t think the fuel would make a difference inside of the crank case. It seems like the same parts will be moving.
I use Rotella T1 SAE 30 conventual oil, add Marvels mystery oil in every tank of gas and removed the spark arrestor and I'm sitting at 14500 hours.
Nice Honda XR! I have a 650L. Love those things!
EXCELLENT VIDEO!!! THANKS!!!
Thanks for watching!
I followed your advice and swapped in the champion spark plug mentioned in the video. It seems to be working fine. It's readily available as you say, and now I can use my US spark plug adapter, which is nice.. My concern is that I can't find any cross reference for it now that it's installed. Should I be concerned?
Thanks for checking out the video! We purchased a few of the champion plugs and are still using the first one. We’ve had zero issues.
Is it normal for the magnetic drain to have some black on it after running it for 20 hours plus a day? I already changed my oil 3 times and still keep getting black on the plug but the oil itself looks clean with no flakes
@@TurboTurdBurglar yes you will it's ferris metals so it wouldnt be glittery anyway
Shouldn’t you have used conventional oil for your break in?
Thats absolutely correct. Synthetic should not be used for break in.
Synthetic is fine for break-in for small engines as long as you use the additive. The additive contains the minerals that assist the break-in. The entire point of this exercise is to run the engine at various intervals, introducing minerals along the way and changing the oil.
Yes use SAE not synthetic..... The manual that came with mine states this also! Usually you run conventional (dinosaur oil) during the break in period some use it for the first oil change as well (I do personally) then you can use synthetic. This was the method I used to break in mine and as of now it's sitting at a little more than 150 hrs of hard running I'd say (running an AC , fridge/freezer, TV, router, a couple of box fans, and sometimes an Xbox series x.
My generator starts, speed up and then shuts off! I changed the spark plug, clean the filter, I even changed the Ignition Coil Module, and still having the same problem! any suggestions? thanks.
You actually should not use synthetic oil for a break in. Because it protects so well, that it can prevent proper break in really. What should be used for break in his a high mineral low detergent oil, so that the mineral fuse to the new metal, rather than detergents.
Love the Trans Am !
That’s Fred Jr’s baby! 77 with the 6.6. After it cools down this fall, (today’s high is 117°) maybe we will do a walk around on it. It has some cool mods!
my only complaint about this video is that T/A behind you i sway too distracting! lol
I just bought one and did change oil after 2 hours and after another 2 hours runn time. I did see alot metal parts in the oil. In the manual it say nothing about changing oil thisbrapid to clean the engen for metal parts. Is this bro sience or super important?
First,thank you for commenting! Proper engine break-in is rarely addressed by companies that sell small engines such as these. Even car manufactures tend to gloss over proper break-in. Honestly, even with a brand new car I would do something similar to the process in the video. Sadly, with small engines like these I have found that the quality controls in the factories where they are made is a bit lacking but doing a thorough proper break-in hedges your bets to have a longer engine life.
@@MrFredsDIY thanks for you'r time to answer. I will defently change oil on it a few more times before pushing it harder. I just order a magnetic dipstick to. And the oil change is so easy, sp why not do it? 😊 is there anything else i should think about when it comes to maintence?
So is it a total of 16 hours?or do you change it every time you hit the hours?
I have this generator, starts right up, puts out very nice power very clean, I checked the sine wave excellent, however what I don't care for is it vibrates too much, I'm afraid that overtime the electronics and wiring will take a toll from the vibration, I have a larger generator and a smaller generator neither of which vibrates so much.
And a year later your generator is running perfectly! See? Nothing to worry bout’.
Did you just remote start it? I’m trying to add remote start to mine
That is an interesting idea. This one is not remote start.
A link for the torque wrench that you used?
That torque wrench was an old harbor freight model. It was similar to this one amzn.to/3UxngZd
If I may. When using the comp cams additive, I may have missed it, I'm guessing the bottle of additive should be divided amongst 4 qt
Can someone help me understand why the owner's manual for my dual-fuel Westinghouse generator does NOT talk about an extensive break in process as described in this video? It only says not to go over 50% of its rated capacity for the first 5 hours, and to vary the load occasionally to allow strator windings to heat and cool.
First, thanks for watching the video! Second, your question is the exact reason why I made this video. In my opinion, this is where most generators fall short. A complete and comprehensive break-in is crucial to a long productive life for a small engine.
@@MrFredsDIY what loads did you have connected to the generator for the break in process?
@RodneyCooperFilmz We used the camper for the load with the AC running. You could use a couple of halogen lights though.
I just bought a sportsman 4000 duel fuel. Probably not as good as a predator but oh well. I broke mine in at first 20 min run time, 45 min and 1 1/2 hr run times. Then il do it at bout 3-4 hr run time. The first 2 changes there was some nice glitter in there and barely anything on the 3rd one
The oil you just changed was too dark for me. I would of changed it alot sooner but that's me
should i use gasoline to break in a dual fuel or propane
A very brand new subscriber...... as it pertains to the break-in.......the compcam was used "per instructions". In determining how much I needed to order.......I looked for a place on line that has a picture of the back of bottle in order to see what the instructions actually were......can you help with this need? Even if it is a link of where I can see the back label/instructions. Thank you very much...wOULD REALLY WISH TO TALK ON PHONE BUT COULD NOT FIND AN EMAIL TO OFFER MY PHONE NUMBER.......LOVE YOU CHANNEL!!!!!! 😇
Amsoil also had specific oil for break in
Just picked up a predator and this is very helpful! Did you use one bottle of the comp cam for each oil change during the break in?
Yes one, and I’m glad you found some value from the video!
Engine break in oil for 30 minutes no load run time, then one hour with a small load, 2 hours with a greater load, again at five hours with more load.
I can't recommend Champion plugs, NGK always a good choice.
Don't forget to check the spark arrestor at about the five hour mark.
Can’t get that time back. Looking for a video on breaking in a generator and I have to wait three minutes on how loud it is.
I cannot find the link to magnetic drain plug can you reply to this with a link for it please?
Sure and thanks for watching!
amzn.to/32I8ber
Hello. Your video was very useful. We just purchased the same generator today and have begun the break in process. We have done the 2 hour break in/oil change. We are currently working on the 4 hour mark now, which brings me to my next question. Dis you do all the breaking in time periods back to back? Or dis you use the generator as needed and changed the oil when you were done using it and at the 8 and 16 hour time mark. We have the 8 hour and 16 hour oil change to go.
Thanks for watching the video! Our break-in was done over a few days, idling and with a load (cycling between). There is no reason that you couldn’t finish the break in with “regular use” as long as you track the time, vary the load, use the additive and of course change the oil at the intervals.
@@MrFredsDIY Hello, how do you alternate the idle and load run, 1 hour idle and 1 hour load run? What kind of load would you put for the load run? Thanks
Nice channel .
Sorry well no I"m not - You buy the expensive schaeffer oil ( that you use for the older muscle cars ) and use that for breaking in the gen set ...OK cool THEN you recommend an old Champion plug LOL tell me is that brand you put in Trans AM .... thanks LOL
Most informative video i've ever watched.Best one is using synthetic oil for the break in.
"Most informative"??? You're kidding right?
I’ve never heard of anyone recommending synthetic as a break-in oil. Synthetic prolongs ring seat and the break in period as a whole. Run synthetic afterwards. Just my opinion.
Thanks for checking out the video! Com Cams break in additive is compatible with petroleum, synthetic and blended motor oils. Modern small engines like the one in this generator are designed for the use of synthetic motor oil. I would never break-in with a super premium synthetic oil like Schaeffer’s, rather, I used the cheapest one I could find since I was planning on using it after break-in.
A synthetic oil no matter how cheap on a break in period??
@@jimtalor7971 That’s a new one to me. I just broke mine in last Friday. I just used 10w30 Pennzoil for mine. Then finalized with Synthetic.
good job fred
Thanks for the kind words!
I have a HF 3500 and I like it a lot, breaking it in over 25 hours is key ! I found removing the exhaust “cone” helps a lot when breaking it in, because you really shouldn’t run it over 2000 watts, and at that low speed, for the first 25 hours, it tend to run rich. Funny how out of all the places in your campground you had the exhaust pointed towards a dry bush 😀
Thanks for watching and good tip about the cone. The 3500 is a great generator for the price!
Cool 250XL
don't forget the high altitude fix needed for elevations over 2000 feet.
Thanks for taking the time to comment! Las Vegas sits at 2,200 feet elevation and we regularly use this generator at 7k plus without issues. Perhaps newer models have more issues than this one.
Why change thr spark plug out of the box?
@@MOAON_AABE They say the spark plug that it comes with is very cheap.
Did homie just say he swapped a Bosch plug with a champion?😂
Harbor freight user yeaa it checks out
One year later and this generator is now $930 and the Honda is $2,800
Lmao try over 900 in bidens America. Makes a big difference based on cost
The bidenflation is real.
Awesome video man. Very in depth. 👍🏻👍🏻
Foolish!!
Break in with synthetic??? Noooo
To many oil changes not needed
Harbor Freight warranties are terrible
How come ?
You're not breaking in a motor its an engine.
It’s called “motor oil”. Google “motor oil” it’s the oil we all put in our cars or trucks if your a man. Don’t be a baboon…
Had two of these pieces of junk. Both died at 400 hours. The engines are trash.
Did you break the engines in?