I love this easy going trouble shooting, changing components and testing. It's one repair guy I would love to leave my gear to - chat a bit, getting honest opinions on stuff, getting estimation of repair cost to decide on. But no - i live in Stockholm in Sweden, here this knowledge is too hard to find.
Thank you for the ride along on this classic; it was a labor heavy resto, but certainly worth the effort. Your customer should be quite happy with this receiver...thank you for your time!
I really enjoy your channel and watching reatorations and repairs you perform. I just wanted to make a comment on electrolytic capacitors. If someone's going to go to all the trouble to restore a receiver that's anything over 30 years old, I would always replace all the electrolytics including the mains caps. To me it doesn't matter whether they test good or not, the electrolytic inside has started to dry and if you're going to go to all the work of replacing all the other caps, I would just replace the mains as well and give the whole unit a brand new life. Just because they test well under low voltage test conditions, doesn't mean that they are going to be working as well at high voltage and high current demand conditions. Once those capacitors start drying out and have that age on them, and they start being reused again, I do not believe that reforming or continue to use those is a good idea. It's a small amount of money for a lot of assurance that the amp will then perform well again for another 30 years. Not that my experience means much, but I've been an electronics for well over 50 years and I've seen new capacitors that tested just fine in high current power supplies go bad with an hours of being initially used. I understand that doesn't see much about new capacitors, but if you do replace them and then do your normal burn in and and verification of unit performance then you are pretty much guaranteed a long life. I should also add that I would always replace all relays as well.
Thanks for your comments and I will take them in. I feel these larger caps still have life in them. I believe their large physical size helps them stay hydrated which gives them a longer life than most electrolytics. Once they start to lose hydration, their values drop and should be changed. My opinion is that not all main filter caps need to be changed because of age. Considering their extra cost I generally don't change them unless they show signs of failing, which these ones didn't. Relays are serviceable. Unless the contacts are damaged beyond use, they can be cleaned up and put back into service. The silver alloy buttons they used in these relays generally has enough meat still left to clean, reshape and polish to put it back into brand new condition. A lot of relays are replaced only because of oxidation and are still perfectly good. Service shops opt for replacement because they couldn't be bothered to re-work the relay as it eats up bench time and the profit of selling a new relay is lost
@@TrevorsBench Thanks for the reply! I agree about the relays for sure. I personally will still replace all electrolytics on equipment I work on but I do see your point about the large mains filters. Keep up the good work and have a good day!!
Thanks for refurbish that swanky Yamaha Receiver. (I love that design pretty much, but I preferred going for the C4/M4 PF-800 TC-800GL for my Yamaha collection; beside some Yamaha Synthesizer & Sampler) Thank You, because it is much more than just repairing an old piece of Audio Equipment; it's a historic moment !
Nice work Trevor, I never really appreciated those type of tuner amps when I was young, probably because I didn't understand what half the knobs and switches did ! A few of my friends parents had similar units but they rarely showed them off, occasionally they might turn it on to listen to radio but that was about it. Now that I'm much older and have seen a lot of modern consumer electronics products I am starting to appreciate these older units much more !
Yamaha -the best of the vintage receivers. Trevor dragging his feet fixing microwaves while this beautiful girl has been waiting. Sounds like DC ripple to me. LED bulbs in vintage gear is the male equivalent to females painting MCM furniture with chalk paint. At least they were warm white. Nice work Trevor. No popped caps this episode.
Hey, what no comment about video length? STOP SENDING LONG VIDEOS! REPORTED! LOL! Nice job on the Yammy. I did my CR-2020 about 10 years ago. It was a tough job, but a labour of love.
Pretty sure on the 1020 the signal strength meter was supposed to engage when you touched the tuning knob. Reverts to right power meter when you aren’t touching the tuning knob.
Not sure if you followed up and checking if the KSA992 was a good replacement for the 2SA844. In the preamp section I’m sure it’ll be okay, but the 844 is rated at double the current (Ic). In the power supply section I’d say the proper replacement would be the KSA1015, KSC1815 if you’re in need of the complementary NPN.
I have a Yamaha CR-1020 which I bought new in 1978. it has a problem of cutting out after about 5 minutes. Some google research led me to believe it something to do with bad capacitors in the power section? Anyway, I was wondering where you're located and if this is a repair that you'd consider? (I'm in Orange County, CA)
I may be mistaken, but wasn't the trim pot bad on the right amp as looking from the front and then in the take after replacement you mentioned changing the pot and you pointed to and were working on the other amp and you were adjusting the left amp as viewed from the front?
Hi. Got a 1020 that gives a big spark in the speaker relay and pop in speakers when powering off. No DC at speakers and everything works. Any idea what to look for please.
Am I the only one wondering approximately or about how much this type of restoration cost? I have this exact reciever works gr8 except for scratchy sound knob dont want to over spend if its not worth the investment.Just curious.
Is that dark coloration on the legs of the transistors from one of the tone boards ( the little ones) mean that they are bad or that they are just painted from the factory? Like the on the 2sc458 transistors people say that if the legs are dark that means that they are no good?
The silver plating on these legs turn black with oxidation. Some are painted black to prevent this oxidation but it's often confused for oxidation. They could have picked any color aside from black. Most transistor failure happens inside the epoxy body of the device and has nothing to do with the color of the legs. Some transistors like the 2SC458 is a known bad device that will fail in time. They are mostly Hitachi devices from the 70's. Hitachi also made other transistors in the square box body with silver legs that are working just fine today and failures are not as common. Time will tell
@@TrevorsBench So the black color has nothing to do with the transistor being bad then. From all I have read of those 2sc458 transistors I was wandering if other transistor that had them were bad, good to know that is not the case. Thank you for clearing that up.
Another great episode Trevor, Appreciate the explanation of FM BLEND. Hmmmmmmm, that really comes with 6 feet.(not 4). That foam rubber snake protection for indicator wires, nice touch. Always good to get something untouched, More 1213 SCR on that crowded Tone board. Enjoyed the power switch disassembly, lots of charcoal. Never really liked those Yamaha toggle switches. Very much dislike that single light for MHZ reading where all MHZ should be back lit. ie: Yamaha CT-7000. That VU Meter sure moved when you put your hand on heat sync, I guess the human FM Antenna, that is really cheap VU Meter single strength or power output..
I agree, Not a fan of the Yamaha lighting myself. they could have put more effort into lamping this receiver to give it a better look. The meter toggles between power output and tuner signal strength when the tuner knob is touched. The tuning knob and shaft is insulated from the chassis and connected to a touch sensor which toggles between the two readings. Adding a fourth meter would have been my choice but I guess they ran out of room on the front panel
I love this easy going trouble shooting, changing components and testing. It's one repair guy I would love to leave my gear to - chat a bit, getting honest opinions on stuff, getting estimation of repair cost to decide on. But no - i live in Stockholm in Sweden, here this knowledge is too hard to find.
Wow you have given this unit a master service, very enjoyable to ride along for this one watched every second
Thank you for the ride along on this classic; it was a labor heavy resto, but certainly worth the effort. Your customer should be quite happy with this receiver...thank you for your time!
Lot of work in that one! Glad it worked with no problems.
Very good to see a professional working on the amp I have. Thank you. Maybe I can fix the power meters now.
Good thing you covered up that main fuse, nice video. Thanks Trevor.
I really enjoy your channel and watching reatorations and repairs you perform. I just wanted to make a comment on electrolytic capacitors. If someone's going to go to all the trouble to restore a receiver that's anything over 30 years old, I would always replace all the electrolytics including the mains caps. To me it doesn't matter whether they test good or not, the electrolytic inside has started to dry and if you're going to go to all the work of replacing all the other caps, I would just replace the mains as well and give the whole unit a brand new life. Just because they test well under low voltage test conditions, doesn't mean that they are going to be working as well at high voltage and high current demand conditions. Once those capacitors start drying out and have that age on them, and they start being reused again, I do not believe that reforming or continue to use those is a good idea. It's a small amount of money for a lot of assurance that the amp will then perform well again for another 30 years. Not that my experience means much, but I've been an electronics for well over 50 years and I've seen new capacitors that tested just fine in high current power supplies go bad with an hours of being initially used. I understand that doesn't see much about new capacitors, but if you do replace them and then do your normal burn in and and verification of unit performance then you are pretty much guaranteed a long life. I should also add that I would always replace all relays as well.
Thanks for your comments and I will take them in. I feel these larger caps still have life in them. I believe their large physical size helps them stay hydrated which gives them a longer life than most electrolytics. Once they start to lose hydration, their values drop and should be changed. My opinion is that not all main filter caps need to be changed because of age.
Considering their extra cost I generally don't change them unless they show signs of failing, which these ones didn't.
Relays are serviceable. Unless the contacts are damaged beyond use, they can be cleaned up and put back into service. The silver alloy buttons they used in these relays generally has enough meat still left to clean, reshape and polish to put it back into brand new condition. A lot of relays are replaced only because of oxidation and are still perfectly good. Service shops opt for replacement because they couldn't be bothered to re-work the relay as it eats up bench time and the profit of selling a new relay is lost
@@TrevorsBench Thanks for the reply! I agree about the relays for sure. I personally will still replace all electrolytics on equipment I work on but I do see your point about the large mains filters. Keep up the good work and have a good day!!
Thanks for refurbish that swanky Yamaha Receiver.
(I love that design pretty much, but I preferred going for the C4/M4 PF-800 TC-800GL for my Yamaha collection; beside some Yamaha Synthesizer & Sampler)
Thank You, because it is much more than just repairing an old piece of Audio Equipment; it's a historic moment !
Master restoration. Outstanding work!
There's some good threads at Audiokarma about installing a Triac to take the high current off the power switch.
I've done this mod on switches barely hanging on and it works really well.
Thanks TTGuy, I will check this out. Good info to know for those with failing power switches
Nice work Trevor, I never really appreciated those type of tuner amps when I was young, probably because I didn't understand what half the knobs and switches did ! A few of my friends parents had similar units but they rarely showed them off, occasionally they might turn it on to listen to radio but that was about it. Now that I'm much older and have seen a lot of modern consumer electronics products I am starting to appreciate these older units much more !
Yamaha -the best of the vintage receivers. Trevor dragging his feet fixing microwaves while this beautiful girl has been waiting. Sounds like DC ripple to me. LED bulbs in vintage gear is the male equivalent to females painting MCM furniture with chalk paint. At least they were warm white. Nice work Trevor. No popped caps this episode.
Sometimes a restoration fills my head to the point where I want to look away and do something different
@@TrevorsBenchfair enough
Hey, what no comment about video length? STOP SENDING LONG VIDEOS! REPORTED! LOL! Nice job on the Yammy. I did my CR-2020 about 10 years ago. It was a tough job, but a labour of love.
its beautiful, well done trevor
Pretty sure on the 1020 the signal strength meter was supposed to engage when you touched the tuning knob. Reverts to right power meter when you aren’t touching the tuning knob.
8 milliAmps is a good current for those LEDs, They should last for decades.
Not sure if you followed up and checking if the KSA992 was a good replacement for the 2SA844. In the preamp section I’m sure it’ll be okay, but the 844 is rated at double the current (Ic). In the power supply section I’d say the proper replacement would be the KSA1015, KSC1815 if you’re in need of the complementary NPN.
I will look at the schematic to see what voltage/currents are in there and make changes if necessary, thanks
Looks nice with those new god plugs
Another interesting and informative video, Thank you very much!
I have a Yamaha CR-1020 which I bought new in 1978. it has a problem of cutting out after about 5 minutes. Some google research led me to believe it something to do with bad capacitors in the power section? Anyway, I was wondering where you're located and if this is a repair that you'd consider? (I'm in Orange County, CA)
I may be mistaken, but wasn't the trim pot bad on the right amp as looking from the front and then in the take after replacement you mentioned changing the pot and you pointed to and were working on the other amp and you were adjusting the left amp as viewed from the front?
Hi. Got a 1020 that gives a big spark in the speaker relay and pop in speakers when powering off. No DC at speakers and everything works. Any idea what to look for please.
Can I ask where you bought The parts for restoring the Yamaha 1020 if I may asked please?
Do they still sell the old style lamps? anyone know?
Thank you
Great video. I have a CR-2020 can you or anyone please explain the fm muting/ots button and what does it do?
I have the CR-820 still working.
Looks like an articulating arm on that tuner dial, mine does not have that.
Am I the only one wondering approximately or about how much this type of restoration cost? I have this exact reciever works gr8 except for scratchy sound knob dont want to over spend if its not worth the investment.Just curious.
I can't speak to how much Trevor would charge, but I had my CR2020 refurbished for $400.
Is that dark coloration on the legs of the transistors from one of the tone boards ( the little ones) mean that they are bad or that they are just painted from the factory? Like the on the 2sc458 transistors people say that if the legs are dark that means that they are no good?
That can be tarnish and/or factory paint
The silver plating on these legs turn black with oxidation. Some are painted black to prevent this oxidation but it's often confused for oxidation. They could have picked any color aside from black. Most transistor failure happens inside the epoxy body of the device and has nothing to do with the color of the legs. Some transistors like the 2SC458 is a known bad device that will fail in time. They are mostly Hitachi devices from the 70's. Hitachi also made other transistors in the square box body with silver legs that are working just fine today and failures are not as common. Time will tell
@@TrevorsBench So the black color has nothing to do with the transistor being bad then. From all I have read of those 2sc458 transistors I was wandering if other transistor that had them were bad, good to know that is not the case.
Thank you for clearing that up.
@@RotxuF Thank you.
Are those banana type plugs or RCA? I am thinking RCA
Banana
@@TrevorsBench Thank Mr Trevor.
Hi Trevor, would you like to share your naughty transistor list ?
There's a list on Audiokarma with the appropriate substitute.
@@TurntableGuy ok I am going to check it out. Thanks
@@TurntableGuy That's the list I keep mentioning, thanks
First comment!
Another great episode Trevor, Appreciate the explanation of FM BLEND. Hmmmmmmm, that really comes with 6 feet.(not 4). That foam rubber snake protection for indicator wires, nice touch. Always good to get something untouched, More 1213 SCR on that crowded Tone board. Enjoyed the power switch disassembly, lots of charcoal. Never really liked those Yamaha toggle switches. Very much dislike that single light for MHZ reading where all MHZ should be back lit. ie: Yamaha CT-7000. That VU Meter sure moved when you put your hand on heat sync, I guess the human FM Antenna, that is really cheap VU Meter single strength or power output..
I agree, Not a fan of the Yamaha lighting myself. they could have put more effort into lamping this receiver to give it a better look.
The meter toggles between power output and tuner signal strength when the tuner knob is touched. The tuning knob and shaft is insulated from the chassis and connected to a touch sensor which toggles between the two readings. Adding a fourth meter would have been my choice but I guess they ran out of room on the front panel