The connector on the dish end is fragile and a lot of people have had problems with it. The solution is to splice in a weatherproof RJ45 connector near the dish and leave the stock connector plugged in permanently. You can shorten the cable so you don't have that bundle on your roof. Then you can buy a long section of cat5/6 cable (with RJ45 connectors) in case there are obstructions next to your van so you can place the dish on the ground if there is a clearing nearby. I'm building a box that will be attached to my rack. My "stowed" dish will be mounted in the box with nothing covering the dish. I'll add a cut-off switch for the motors. I'll still be able to pull it out and use it on the ground with the stock stand. Very seldom will you have a satellite directly above you and when there is one, it will only be there for a few minutes.
@@seven_o_savage Also, the stock connectors are wired differently so it's proprietary. Most people correct that when they splice in the RJ45 connector. Lot's of info on FB and UA-cam about doing that.
@@sjackson99just keep in mind that as long as both rj45 ends you attach to both sides of your original cable it doesn't matter what color schematic you do. Heck you could do all stripes then all solids if you wanted. It's just a pass-through at this point.
Great vid. Thanks for the mounting tips. I learned today you can install a PoE injector and transformer to jump up the 12v DC to 48v DC and save power also as the Starlink converts 110v AC power back to 48v DC so converting twice is not as efficient.
It probably tests the snow melt circuit when first turning on which boosts power draw to around 175 watts before settling down to just normal usage draw. You will need the larger (small) inverter for your skiing trips... There are some blogs on converting the power supply to 12v so no inverter needed.
Great video, finally someone who provided exactly what I was looking for! Also, GENIUS move with the separate inverter just for Starlink, totally going to try that out so we can save power in our van! Thanks for the great video, super high value.
Make sure you go into the app and "Stow" the dish before you turn it off to move it. The starlink can be converted to use 12 volt without the inverter so it would be possible to get rid of the starlink power supply and router.
How did you get the star link cable through the "rubber bung"? Starlink has those plugs on both ends of the starlink cable that are buch bigger than the hole shown.
@@Ghostly-00 I think the “rubber bung” has a slice in it, or you need to cut one to the hole you drill. However, I did not use that method. I purchased a bolt on mount and cut my cable to run it through my ceiling, insulation, and van roof. Purchased a new tool, some CAT 5/6 connectors, and a water proof and dust proof cable end. ua-cam.com/video/8PDvvnVWfpM/v-deo.html.
There's enough satellites now that you don't need the STARLINK motor actuator. Check out Star Mount for STARLINK. Much better, low profile mod for RV/Van etc. The "dish" just needs to face up to the sky.
Starlink at 12Volt, sneaky crazy smart. Seriously, that’s a great way around powering up the big inverter. And you get to use much smaller wires too. And the convenience of a 12v dc switch/panel. I have to look into a small inverter for this reason alone. And I don’t even have Starlink, yet. Many people complain about the high wattage Starlink is drawing. Like you, I believe in turning it on only when I actually need it. That should save a ton of power. Being conservative with energy forces us to be more efficient when we use it. Don’t turn on your Starlink and then go on a hike. Those walk-on solar panels are nice. I considered getting them for a sailboat. Until I found the price. A standard solar panel costs $1-$2 per watt. Your cost $6 per watt. 3-6 times the cost. Renogy 175 watt flexible solar panel is on sale for $279 at the moment. They are only 7 LB compared to 25 LB of a rigid panel. And they cost less then 1/3 of the walk-on panels. If you went with 150 watt panels, you just spend $3600 plus tax for 600 watt of solar. Got money to burn? Go for it. I looked at the wire pass thru thingy. My main gripe with it is vertical wire orientation. Something horizontal is less of a hazard for both tripping and breaking wires. The standard PV/RV roof mounting entry gland looks less fancy but at least is horizontal. There are single and doubles. With MC4 or blank. You’d be installing multiple, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing. My latest solution for this issue is using a cable gland box that gets sealed to the roof. Now the fancy pass thru gland you used can be installed on the side of the box and a overall more streamlined look can be archived. Single glands can also be installed and with 4 sides available, you can install extra as empty spares. This gives you expansion capabilities without needing to drill more holes in the Van. But otherwise I like it.
Careful unplugging the dish all the time. My connector broke after 3 weeks and now I’m waiting for a replacement cable that is on back order and have no idea when I get it. When I do I will be creating a quick release cable connection and leaving my Starlink cables permanently connected.
How did you get that plug through that gland hole? I looked at a video that left the dish up on the van roof using the pivot mount, and using the stow function in the phone app. It took me a little time to find/ figure out, but using the phone app you put the dish in “stow” and then pivot the dish flat and re-tighten the pivot. The dish then remains on the roof, travels in a low profile position, but still needs to be raised and lowered. This sounds better than leaving that plug out in the weather.
You have a great way of explaining things. Thanks for the great video. What are your thoughts about the new upgrade? Technically moves so fast and Starlink equipment is not cheap.
Just got mine too! Had open sky and great signal at Truckee rodeo grounds dirt lot, then the kiddos could play at the regional park while I got work done. We should make a resource for secret spots with great signal... it's funny how I can't remember what sky obstructions (trees) there are until I go somewhere again with Starlink in mind.
When you install the Starlink mount, be ready to loose the adjustment knob. I installed the mount on the factory roof rail and used some of the adhesive strip provided in the kit on the inboard side of the mount plate where it contacts the roof. We left PDX and spent the night in Weed, Ca, at the Mt. Shasta Brewing Co. The knob was still there then. By the time we got to Sacramento it was gone. The good news is that a 1/2” socket will do the job. Make sure you have one if you want to raise and lower the mast. I think I will just leave it up. With a fan, an awning and a solar panel, how much difference will it make? Note: I will leave the mast only, not the antenna.
Great video. I am about to install a starlink on my crafter and considering putting in a telescopic mount so when I switch on the starlink it goes up from flat and then should work. The issue is water proofing I think and can I get the starlink to stay flat when not used?
I feel like cutting it open and putting a switch on the servo would be the best bet. you can turn the system off and on to reset the panel to home then turn off the servos so well driving you will still have WIFI
Hey! Thanks for that video! Quick question for you. From what I see, you've cut the wire to fish it through the roof. What kind of wire is the main cable (not talking about ghe power cable here)? Thanks!!
This is great. Did you get the Starlink for RVs or the standard home one? Also, did you get she standard service or the RV plan? It appears to cost about $20 more per month. Thank you for sharing. This is a game changer.
In this video it’s the regular starlink. I have the new high performance one sitting in my garage that I’m itching to install though. I use the starlink for RV payment plan so that I can pause when I’m not using the van
Excitement about the wire passthrough warranted. It's all about no leaks. Good video. Will be purchasing your recommendations. Edit: Does the 375 watt inverter have swappable fuses or are they soldered? Cheap stuff has soldered, like the newer Energizer that is really made by by PowerBright
So cool! I just looked at the inverters that you linked and am a little confused. They have a plug for a cigarette lighter plug. How exactly did you go about connecting your mini inverter?
He didn't answer but... I think you just cut off the cigarette end and it's 2 wires, red & black. Car lighters are 12 volt. So then you just use those wires to your system.
Nice! How does it work with the 12V switch turning on the inverter? I followed that the switch goes to the fuse box, but then how does this control the power to the inverter?
Awesome vid! The part I don’t fully understand is if you drill a 6mm hole for the rubber portion of the gland that’s not wide enough to get the whole plug through. How did you get a plug through the rubber portion of that gland?
How did you the starlink cable through the "bung" hole on the scan strut? With the RJ45 on the end of the cable (bigger than the cable itself) how do you get it through and still have a water tight seal?
How does it work with the 12V switch turning on the inverter? I followed that the switch goes to the fuse box, but then how does this control the power to the inverter?
I have heard a lot of reports from RV/van lifers that reception is actually spotty and unreliable. Also no signal if there is cloud cover. Anyone who uses Starlink regularly can verify whether they receive a consistent and reliable signal?
People have reported using their Starlink in a hard rain without any problems so I'd say "no signal with cloud cover" is false. I'm currently using mine at my house but eventually, it will get mounted on my van. I haven't experienced cloud cover but I'm looking at my statistics and I have not had any outages 2 seconds or longer in the last 12 hours.
I use mine a lot out west and have zero issues. Speeds are over 100mbps in middle of nowhere. Cloud cover does not cause issues that is a rumor based on old direct tv issues.
I’ve been using mine since late May, also in the west, primarily NorCal, and it’s been a game changer. Currently in an area with no cell (Lost Sierra) and yup, watching UA-cam/Netflix with 100+Mbps down and 8-11Mbps up consistently. Just need sky. Works well enough for meetings and calls (wifi calling) too. Landed mine into a peplink BR1 pro that fails from Starlink to LTE, so in the areas where I have both it should be a really solid setup. Possible to also bond the connections with peplinks speedfusion tech. Anyway…game changer for sure. Used the same mount from Starlink and some T-Bolts to mount directly to the factory rails….and honestly, I regularly drive with it up too. Took a month of constantly climbing the ladder to become comfortable with that. So far no problems if I keep it under 60Mph. Haven’t tested faster.
I know this is off-topic, but I just found your channel. How much total 80/20 do you use, approx., in a build that includes a shower? High Roof/Extended?
Hey Seven, I assume you cut the cable to get it through the rubber plug on the scanstrut, is that right? I have a scanstrut in place and don't see how it could be done without cutting. Thanks
Is it okay in the wind being mounted with that mount while driving or do you flatten out to drive? And have you tried its performance in motion mounted like that? Debating whether to do this or get the super expensive wedge mount one (prob won’t but like to weigh my options)
@@seven_o_savage I thought I noticed that in one of your insta pics!!! Gosh I’m in a tough spot with whether to diy flat mount or get that. The power draw of the high performance makes me a bit nervous.. does it preform a lot more reliably?
Hard to say to be honest … they’ve been upgrading the network so much…. But if it has relatively open access to the sky it’s just as good as WiFi at home :)
Are you worried about weather on the cable end when not inside the dish? I’ve been wondering how I can protect it in a box or something when not in use. I’m really hoping since they now have the RV plan they will come out with a dish for RV mounting.
Hi there, Love your videos on youtube. I have just subscribed to your instagram page. Can I ask you for th link for the roof mount starlink plz. I cant seem to find it. You said you got it directly from them. Maybe I am looking at the wrong place. Thank You Nil
i'm not impressed wit;h Starlink yet. Until it can be mounted permanently and it tracks the while you drive. Until then, i'll use the Weboost, or as you call it the old antiquated antenna. plus the weboost is all 12v already...
Anyone remember Elons solar city failed solar panel company? I have a feeling starling is going to go the same route. Do some research before buying one. Also, the power cable is hardwired to the unit so if it gets damaged , THE ENTIRE unit must be replaced.
StarlinK is already successful. The old versions (round dish) was hard-wired. The new rectangle dish is not hard-wired. So you've never repaired a cable?
Starlink is a blessing if you live in a rural area..... I live in a college town. I get spotty cell coverage and I didn’t want to commit to a two year contact for internet service.... Starlink was a great option since I can use it with my camper van.
@@sjackson99 LoLoL. Imagine spending $500+ on this and then saying, “stho you’ve never repaired a thable” 😂 I’ve built a few camper vans with 12/120v systems. I know how to “repair a cable” but that’s completely besides the point. Starlink is going to fail just like Solarcity did because it’s an unsustainable model. Do you have any idea how much money Musk will have to spend to send satellites out to expand starlink coverage? You clearly are just a Tesla fanboy 🤣
@@dannysan1272 The only thing available for me was Hughes and it sucked. This is cheaper and faster. I don’t understand the hate. If it works.... it works. If and when it stops working just stop paying. Simple.
Hi Stiven! I’m trying to get hold of you for a very long time also left messages on instagram as well with my phone number! I have 2021 sprinter 144 crow van high celling 4x4 I need your help to design outlet and build myself or use your help if you interested Please advise Thank you
I love that the microwave is for "fancy meals"!🤣 Thanks for another great video, I'll be watching the solar panels next.
The connector on the dish end is fragile and a lot of people have had problems with it. The solution is to splice in a weatherproof RJ45 connector near the dish and leave the stock connector plugged in permanently. You can shorten the cable so you don't have that bundle on your roof. Then you can buy a long section of cat5/6 cable (with RJ45 connectors) in case there are obstructions next to your van so you can place the dish on the ground if there is a clearing nearby.
I'm building a box that will be attached to my rack. My "stowed" dish will be mounted in the box with nothing covering the dish. I'll add a cut-off switch for the motors. I'll still be able to pull it out and use it on the ground with the stock stand.
Very seldom will you have a satellite directly above you and when there is one, it will only be there for a few minutes.
Wow great idea! Thanks for sharing 🤙
@@seven_o_savage Also, the stock connectors are wired differently so it's proprietary. Most people correct that when they splice in the RJ45 connector. Lot's of info on FB and UA-cam about doing that.
@@sjackson99 could you link to a guide you recommend? I'd like to not unplug the starlink cable every time I have to move.
@@sjackson99just keep in mind that as long as both rj45 ends you attach to both sides of your original cable it doesn't matter what color schematic you do. Heck you could do all stripes then all solids if you wanted. It's just a pass-through at this point.
Great vid. Thanks for the mounting tips. I learned today you can install a PoE injector and transformer to jump up the 12v DC to 48v DC and save power also as the Starlink converts 110v AC power back to 48v DC so converting twice is not as efficient.
It probably tests the snow melt circuit when first turning on which boosts power draw to around 175 watts before settling down to just normal usage draw. You will need the larger (small) inverter for your skiing trips... There are some blogs on converting the power supply to 12v so no inverter needed.
Great video, finally someone who provided exactly what I was looking for! Also, GENIUS move with the separate inverter just for Starlink, totally going to try that out so we can save power in our van! Thanks for the great video, super high value.
Love your channel! Post up when StarLink can run off of 12v and has a permanent mount on the roof.
Make sure you go into the app and "Stow" the dish before you turn it off to move it. The starlink can be converted to use 12 volt without the inverter so it would be possible to get rid of the starlink power supply and router.
How did you get the star link cable through the "rubber bung"? Starlink has those plugs on both ends of the starlink cable that are buch bigger than the hole shown.
Did you ever figure out a workaround for this? I'm having the same problem haha
@@Ghostly-00 I think the “rubber bung” has a slice in it, or you need to cut one to the hole you drill. However, I did not use that method. I purchased a bolt on mount and cut my cable to run it through my ceiling, insulation, and van roof. Purchased a new tool, some CAT 5/6 connectors, and a water proof and dust proof cable end. ua-cam.com/video/8PDvvnVWfpM/v-deo.html.
@@jeffsteinmetz7188 Oh okay, thank you for the reply and all the information. I really appreciate it!
There's enough satellites now that you don't need the STARLINK motor actuator. Check out Star Mount for STARLINK. Much better, low profile mod for RV/Van etc. The "dish" just needs to face up to the sky.
Starlink at 12Volt, sneaky crazy smart.
Seriously, that’s a great way around powering up the big inverter. And you get to use much smaller wires too. And the convenience of a 12v dc switch/panel. I have to look into a small inverter for this reason alone. And I don’t even have Starlink, yet.
Many people complain about the high wattage Starlink is drawing. Like you, I believe in turning it on only when I actually need it. That should save a ton of power. Being conservative with energy forces us to be more efficient when we use it. Don’t turn on your Starlink and then go on a hike.
Those walk-on solar panels are nice. I considered getting them for a sailboat. Until I found the price.
A standard solar panel costs $1-$2 per watt. Your cost $6 per watt. 3-6 times the cost.
Renogy 175 watt flexible solar panel is on sale for $279 at the moment. They are only 7 LB compared to 25 LB of a rigid panel. And they cost less then 1/3 of the walk-on panels. If you went with 150 watt panels, you just spend $3600 plus tax for 600 watt of solar. Got money to burn? Go for it.
I looked at the wire pass thru thingy. My main gripe with it is vertical wire orientation. Something horizontal is less of a hazard for both tripping and breaking wires. The standard PV/RV roof mounting entry gland looks less fancy but at least is horizontal. There are single and doubles. With MC4 or blank. You’d be installing multiple, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing.
My latest solution for this issue is using a cable gland box that gets sealed to the roof. Now the fancy pass thru gland you used can be installed on the side of the box and a overall more streamlined look can be archived. Single glands can also be installed and with 4 sides available, you can install extra as empty spares. This gives you expansion capabilities without needing to drill more holes in the Van.
But otherwise I like it.
Careful unplugging the dish all the time. My connector broke after 3 weeks and now I’m waiting for a replacement cable that is on back order and have no idea when I get it. When I do I will be creating a quick release cable connection and leaving my Starlink cables permanently connected.
How did you get that plug through that gland hole? I looked at a video that left the dish up on the van roof using the pivot mount, and using the stow function in the phone app. It took me a little time to find/ figure out, but using the phone app you put the dish in “stow” and then pivot the dish flat and re-tighten the pivot. The dish then remains on the roof, travels in a low profile position, but still needs to be raised and lowered. This sounds better than leaving that plug out in the weather.
You have a great way of explaining things. Thanks for the great video. What are your thoughts about the new upgrade? Technically moves so fast and Starlink equipment is not cheap.
Just got mine too! Had open sky and great signal at Truckee rodeo grounds dirt lot, then the kiddos could play at the regional park while I got work done. We should make a resource for secret spots with great signal... it's funny how I can't remember what sky obstructions (trees) there are until I go somewhere again with Starlink in mind.
Great video. I love my StarLink. Can’t wait to try it on my van.
Did you cut the wire to fit through the Scanstrut DS-Multi Multi Deck Seal?
yeah my thougts how you did it?
Another great one - thanks for sharing all this really well researched information. I see the Savage Van Co in your future!
When you install the Starlink mount, be ready to loose the adjustment knob. I installed the mount on the factory roof rail and used some of the adhesive strip provided in the kit on the inboard side of the mount plate where it contacts the roof. We left PDX and spent the night in Weed, Ca, at the Mt. Shasta Brewing Co. The knob was still there then. By the time we got to Sacramento it was gone. The good news is that a 1/2” socket will do the job. Make sure you have one if you want to raise and lower the mast. I think I will just leave it up. With a fan, an awning and a solar panel, how much difference will it make? Note: I will leave the mast only, not the antenna.
Great stuff! Be waiting on your overall tour of the complete van. 👍
Great informative video. I have been considering Starlink in my new van. Thanks.
Great video. I am about to install a starlink on my crafter and considering putting in a telescopic mount so when I switch on the starlink it goes up from flat and then should work. The issue is water proofing I think and can I get the starlink to stay flat when not used?
Hmm bit confused why you want to have it on a telescopic mount?
So you can leave it on van and have it down when driving and then deploy when stopped...@@seven_o_savage
until today, wondering whether I'd ever have s use for my little 400W inverter. thx.
I feel like cutting it open and putting a switch on the servo would be the best bet. you can turn the system off and on to reset the panel to home then turn off the servos so well driving you will still have WIFI
Hey! Thanks for that video! Quick question for you. From what I see, you've cut the wire to fish it through the roof. What kind of wire is the main cable (not talking about ghe power cable here)? Thanks!!
I wish my brain grokked tech info
Like yours! Well done!
This is great. Did you get the Starlink for RVs or the standard home one? Also, did you get she standard service or the RV plan? It appears to cost about $20 more per month. Thank you for sharing. This is a game changer.
In this video it’s the regular starlink. I have the new high performance one sitting in my garage that I’m itching to install though. I use the starlink for RV payment plan so that I can pause when I’m not using the van
Hi, great setup, but is this the residential or roam version? The roam version doesn't seem to come with a mount?
Excitement about the wire passthrough warranted. It's all about no leaks. Good video. Will be purchasing your recommendations. Edit: Does the 375 watt inverter have swappable fuses or are they soldered? Cheap stuff has soldered, like the newer Energizer that is really made by by PowerBright
Finally the video is out, good job buddy! Always excited to see a new Seven O Savage video released 🙌
Thanks brother!
So cool! I just looked at the inverters that you linked and am a little confused. They have a plug for a cigarette lighter plug. How exactly did you go about connecting your mini inverter?
He didn't answer but... I think you just cut off the cigarette end and it's 2 wires, red & black. Car lighters are 12 volt. So then you just use those wires to your system.
Nice! How does it work with the 12V switch turning on the inverter? I followed that the switch goes to the fuse box, but then how does this control the power to the inverter?
Excellent video! Thank you.
Thanks Alex! Love the video!
Thank you for this video! Your set up is best. Does the modem work inside the cupboard?
Awesome vid! The part I don’t fully understand is if you drill a 6mm hole for the rubber portion of the gland that’s not wide enough to get the whole plug through. How did you get a plug through the rubber portion of that gland?
Also curious about this...thoughts seven o?
How did you the starlink cable through the "bung" hole on the scan strut? With the RJ45 on the end of the cable (bigger than the cable itself) how do you get it through and still have a water tight seal?
Like you t do a video on the fuel economy, and issues with the DEF system?
Probably the biggest problem with this set up, at least with my limited experience, is the connection at the dish, it is easy to damage!
Starlinked ! Keep it up
Pretty sure I passed you at donner lake yesterday in my build… or possibly your doppelgänger
So this is the standard? The one that's not for mobility supposedly? Lol i was thinking if i could just buy the cheaper one and do something similar.
The 150 didn't work probably because that's the peak watt not the sustained watt rating.
Thanks for doing this install video. Please let us know what subscription you went with?
Awesome. Just wondering what the cost comparison with cell was for you?
Thanks, man, I did the same thing.
How does it work with the 12V switch turning on the inverter? I followed that the switch goes to the fuse box, but then how does this control the power to the inverter?
There might be a simple reason why the 150 inverter didn't work. Maybe it was 75 and 150 peak.
What do you think about attaching that Starlink mount directly to the factory roof rail?
Good idea!
Do find that you need to orient your van in a particular direction or does the antenna adjust azimuth as well as elevation?
Is the power cable on the roof covered in any way? Wouldn't it rust if left exposed to the rain?
I've seen a video that talks about how all the dish pivot does is point north no matter what. Has anyone seen anything different?
I have heard a lot of reports from RV/van lifers that reception is actually spotty and unreliable. Also no signal if there is cloud cover. Anyone who uses Starlink regularly can verify whether they receive a consistent and reliable signal?
People have reported using their Starlink in a hard rain without any problems so I'd say "no signal with cloud cover" is false. I'm currently using mine at my house but eventually, it will get mounted on my van. I haven't experienced cloud cover but I'm looking at my statistics and I have not had any outages 2 seconds or longer in the last 12 hours.
I use mine a lot out west and have zero issues. Speeds are over 100mbps in middle of nowhere.
Cloud cover does not cause issues that is a rumor based on old direct tv issues.
I’ve been using mine since late May, also in the west, primarily NorCal, and it’s been a game changer.
Currently in an area with no cell (Lost Sierra) and yup, watching UA-cam/Netflix with 100+Mbps down and 8-11Mbps up consistently. Just need sky. Works well enough for meetings and calls (wifi calling) too.
Landed mine into a peplink BR1 pro that fails from Starlink to LTE, so in the areas where I have both it should be a really solid setup. Possible to also bond the connections with peplinks speedfusion tech. Anyway…game changer for sure.
Used the same mount from Starlink and some T-Bolts to mount directly to the factory rails….and honestly, I regularly drive with it up too. Took a month of constantly climbing the ladder to become comfortable with that. So far no problems if I keep it under 60Mph. Haven’t tested faster.
@@curmorpheus man that’s awesome. Never heard of the peplink BR1 pro. I’ll have to check that out.
I’ve had no problems in Wyoming and Idaho in places with no cell. In Montana I had an issue in one campground at Glacier with lots of trees.
Wasn't there a development for a mobile Starlink antenna? I thought I saw a video about that.
Is there a video on your roof rack ?
Did you use a part or full wave rectifier for your inverter to power the star link
Can You Please elaborate on how much per month you allot to fuel, and how much per month you use. average driving time and mileage
I know this is off-topic, but I just found your channel. How much total 80/20 do you use, approx., in a build that includes a shower? High Roof/Extended?
6:44 couldn't you just clip the plug and make it DC with the busbar?
Can you recommend the small inverter that you used, which kind thanks
have you driven with it mounted/running?
How is it when you drive in the highway? Do you remove the dish when driving?
TIA
I ended up upgrading to the high performance version so that I don’t need to remove while driving :)
Do you use it while driving?
Hey Can you drive your van on the freeway with the Starlink attached on the roof? will it flyoff?
Hey Seven, I assume you cut the cable to get it through the rubber plug on the scanstrut, is that right? I have a scanstrut in place and don't see how it could be done without cutting. Thanks
I didn’t cut the cable I cut a slit in the rubber between the hole for the cable and the edge. It’s still water tight :)
@@seven_o_savage Nice! I wondered about doing that. I’m glad to hear that it’s still water tight. Thanks for the info I’ll do the same
Very nice video, and install in well done electrical system! 🙂👍👏
The cost though...ouch 🤨 hopefully that drops as more you rrrrrich guys sign up.
Is it okay in the wind being mounted with that mount while driving or do you flatten out to drive? And have you tried its performance in motion mounted like that? Debating whether to do this or get the super expensive wedge mount one (prob won’t but like to weigh my options)
I upgraded to the high performance wedge and I loveeeee it. Haven’t had a chance to make a video…
@@seven_o_savage I thought I noticed that in one of your insta pics!!! Gosh I’m in a tough spot with whether to diy flat mount or get that. The power draw of the high performance makes me a bit nervous.. does it preform a lot more reliably?
Hard to say to be honest … they’ve been upgrading the network so much…. But if it has relatively open access to the sky it’s just as good as WiFi at home :)
What gauge wire and fuse amp needed for the 375W inverter?
I am trying to find that retractable antenna mount. What is called or any link on where i can buy it?
I think in his description he means that they sell it (starlink) but only if you're a verified buyer? Seems weird but some companies are like that
Are you worried about weather on the cable end when not inside the dish? I’ve been wondering how I can protect it in a box or something when not in use. I’m really hoping since they now have the RV plan they will come out with a dish for RV mounting.
I talked briefly about a cable cover that addresses this!! Towards the end of the mounting section
@@seven_o_savage I've watched twice, must have missed it.
Sandwich bag and electrical tape.
How did the starlink cable get fed through the gasket? The connectors at the ends are much wider than the cable itself.
I made a slice with a box cutter for the starlink cable. Still seals nicely.
@@seven_o_savage ahh makes sense. Thank you!
Hi there, Love your videos on youtube. I have just subscribed to your instagram page. Can I ask you for th link for the roof mount starlink plz. I cant seem to find it. You said you got it directly from them. Maybe I am looking at the wrong place. Thank You Nil
👍👍💯💯💯⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
What happened to all your LP9s?
I was mid install of them on the new roof rack during this video
i'm not impressed wit;h Starlink yet. Until it can be mounted permanently and it tracks the while you drive. Until then, i'll use the Weboost, or as you call it the old antiquated antenna. plus the weboost is all 12v already...
Yea if cell signal is working for you no need to change it!
wtf walkable solar roof deck. big if true
How is the latency?
Good enough to game with. I usually see around 40ms.
This ^
I've also done Teams calls with no issue.
Price???
$600 for hardware. $110/month for home plan + $25/month for roaming option.
blow this up
Anyone remember Elons solar city failed solar panel company? I have a feeling starling is going to go the same route. Do some research before buying one. Also, the power cable is hardwired to the unit so if it gets damaged
, THE ENTIRE unit must be replaced.
StarlinK is already successful. The old versions (round dish) was hard-wired. The new rectangle dish is not hard-wired. So you've never repaired a cable?
Starlink is a blessing if you live in a rural area..... I live in a college town. I get spotty cell coverage and I didn’t want to commit to a two year contact for internet service.... Starlink was a great option since I can use it with my camper van.
@@rjthomasindyusa starlink isn’t the only option
@@sjackson99 LoLoL. Imagine spending $500+ on this and then saying, “stho you’ve never repaired a thable” 😂
I’ve built a few camper vans with 12/120v systems. I know how to “repair a cable” but that’s completely besides the point. Starlink is going to fail just like Solarcity did because it’s an unsustainable model. Do you have any idea how much money Musk will have to spend to send satellites out to expand starlink coverage? You clearly are just a Tesla fanboy 🤣
@@dannysan1272 The only thing available for me was Hughes and it sucked. This is cheaper and faster. I don’t understand the hate. If it works.... it works. If and when it stops working just stop paying. Simple.
Zoom call will drive you nuts on a cloudy day, just sayin!
Done plenty of zoom or video meetings n cloudy days and even in the rain with no problem.
What you do is great until the last 8 seconds. You will never “See me next time.”! Stop the lie, please.
Hi Stiven! I’m trying to get hold of you for a very long time also left messages on instagram as well with my phone number!
I have 2021 sprinter 144 crow van high celling 4x4
I need your help to design outlet and build myself or use your help if you interested
Please advise Thank you
𝘱𝘳𝘰𝘮𝘰𝘴𝘮 🤪