What are your hull dimensions ? I really like your boat . My best friend and I were discussing an adventure like yours . Been watching some adventures on UA-cam and stumbled across your channel . Your content is awesome I subbed.
The hull is a Sea Ark 2472 MV (www.seaarkboats.com/boat/14/2472-mv). See link for detailed dimensions. If someone is starting from scratch I would use the next size up (2672 MV) to allow more bunk length and space for the dinette. The bunks in this boat are a little short for taller folks.
I did not build the boat superstructure but purchased from the original builder. However, I can give some particulars: A wood framework was fastened to the hull and the super structure was fastened to this framework. Note bolt heads just below the rub rail along both sides indicating where part of the structure is fastened. The floor is 1/2" plywood. The sides have 2" x 2" studs, with 1/4" plywood on the outside, and foam between the studs. The inner walls are covered with pine tongue and groove strips. The ceiling is open and uses 2" x 6" joists cut with a shallow curve and are covered with 3/8" plywood (should have been 1/2"). The roof is covered with a commercial grade roofing fabric (TPO) secured around the edges with aluminum strips. Quarter round trim is used along the lower part of the structure between the hull and superstructure and sealed to keep water out. The forward angle of the structure was not a good design feature, since it presents several problems with leakage around the door in particular. One reason I added the forward Bimini. The former owner sealed the round ports permanently due to leaks because of the angle of the bulkhead. A vertical design may make it look more boxy, but would prevent problems generated by the forward bulkhead angle. The aft deck is double (lower deck, upper deck) and fitted with a large hatch. This allows storage for two batteries, spare anchor & rode, a manual bilge pump, and other equipment. The hatch is not water tight and allows water to go between decks, which is not a good design either! Marine plywood was not used, but should have been. At a minimum all below deck wood should have been fiber glassed due to exposure to bilge moisture and the aft deck hatch leakage. There have been numerous modifications made to alleviate problems with leakage and most have been successful. Ultimately, I chose to store this boat inside because it will not have good longevity due to the wood construction and below deck exposure to moisture. I intend to put out more details about modifications, when I can find the time.
The Sound of Silence.
Simon & Garfunkel
What are your hull dimensions ? I really like your boat . My best friend and I were discussing an adventure like yours . Been watching some adventures on UA-cam and stumbled across your channel . Your content is awesome I subbed.
The hull is a Sea Ark 2472 MV (www.seaarkboats.com/boat/14/2472-mv). See link for detailed dimensions. If someone is starting from scratch I would use the next size up (2672 MV) to allow more bunk length and space for the dinette. The bunks in this boat are a little short for taller folks.
I'm curious as to what the superstructure is made of and how it's a fixed to the hull being list some more materials how is it keep from leaking
I did not build the boat superstructure but purchased from the original builder. However, I can give some particulars:
A wood framework was fastened to the hull and the super structure was fastened to this framework. Note bolt heads just below the rub rail along both sides indicating where part of the structure is fastened.
The floor is 1/2" plywood. The sides have 2" x 2" studs, with 1/4" plywood on the outside, and foam between the studs. The inner walls are covered with pine tongue and groove strips.
The ceiling is open and uses 2" x 6" joists cut with a shallow curve and are covered with 3/8" plywood (should have been 1/2"). The roof is covered with a commercial grade roofing fabric (TPO) secured around the edges with aluminum strips.
Quarter round trim is used along the lower part of the structure between the hull and superstructure and sealed to keep water out.
The forward angle of the structure was not a good design feature, since it presents several problems with leakage around the door in particular. One reason I added the forward Bimini. The former owner sealed the round ports permanently due to leaks because of the angle of the bulkhead. A vertical design may make it look more boxy, but would prevent problems generated by the forward bulkhead angle.
The aft deck is double (lower deck, upper deck) and fitted with a large hatch. This allows storage for two batteries, spare anchor & rode, a manual bilge pump, and other equipment. The hatch is not water tight and allows water to go between decks, which is not a good design either!
Marine plywood was not used, but should have been. At a minimum all below deck wood should have been fiber glassed due to exposure to bilge moisture and the aft deck hatch leakage.
There have been numerous modifications made to alleviate problems with leakage and most have been successful. Ultimately, I chose to store this boat inside because it will not have good longevity due to the wood construction and below deck exposure to moisture.
I intend to put out more details about modifications, when I can find the time.