Just wanted to say a big thank you to you. Inspired and informed by your recent videos I was able to diagnose and fix an old friend My Marantz SR390 AV Amp. Nothing special, but it has lived with me since new (1995ish). Its been with me through single life and marriage and been a dependable unit and recently developed distortion in one channel. Thanks to you I had the confidence to take it apart and reflow a few joints and its now re-commissioned. Brilliant! Thanks again Andrew, London UK.🙂
24:21 - look at that bulging capacitor in the PSU, below the 2 main rail caps and next to the small Rubycon with K on the top. It might be (not) smoothing a rail that's supplying a standby voltage or some control voltage that the mute and protection circuit is running off?
I've seen where they stay in protection mode when one of the low voltage rails is out of spec. They really like making linear regulators out of discrete transistors and zener diodes in receivers for some reason, and they tend to go bad (both the zeners or the transistors), and it throws the rail voltage off. Then somewhere there's a comparitor or something that's comparing the incorrect rail voltage to some signal that comes from the protection circuit, and it keeps it in protection. You have the schematic, so it should be fairly easy to identify all the LV dc rails and check them all.
I have the same exact Pioneer AV receiver complete w/ remote, manual, G77 EQ, and Duel Tape deck. Purchased back in 1990 for $1300. Speaker amplifiers are rated to deliver 130 watts each into 8 ohms from 20 to 20,000 Hz with no more than 0.005 percent total harmonic distortion (THD). Obviously, the VSX-D1S is a true powerhouse receiver, more than able to drive the vast majority of speaker systems to their limits without straining its amplifiers. 30+ yrs later still kicking. The D1S was considered one of the BEST TOP OF THE LINE series Pioneer has ever made. Everything else after that was total garbage. All in all, the Pioneer VSX-D1S is a large, heavy, powerful, expensive, highly versatile, and fine-sounding receiver. @ 31:44 stupid design , I agree. 12volts, I just want to say, Thank you for your knowledge, expertise and all you do to help out youtubers with your troubleshooting / and repair videos. Greatly appreciated Thank you!!
it was a good design until you get to that point where there's a portion that you cannot access without taking everything apart. If only they made that hatch a little bit bigger right. But the real problem here was those rubber supports stuck to the board anytime you put that circuit glue down you run the risk that you're going to create problems down the road. But then this stuff was never made to last 30 years so if you've got 30 years out of a piece of equipment you're lucky because it was never designed to last that long. No matter how much you paid for it or how great the piece was these devices are only engineered to last maybe 10 to 15 years. so the fact that it's lasted this long it's been on borrowed time for a while. Nothing lasts forever nothing is designed to last forever some people will call it planned ops license I don't know that I would go that far as to calling it planned obsolescence. If they really did have planned up lessons in mind they would have an expiration timer couple to the random fault generator. Think about it for just a second if manufacturers really did want their equipment to fail they can design it with microprocessors and everything these days they could design it so that it will run for x number of hours regardless whether it's still sounding greater looking great when it gets to that time it just shuts off. That would be planned obsolescence. I can think of one company that has already done that oh there's a few but one big one that sticks out of the Sonos. do you remember what they did to all their first generation speakers the ones that came with their own dedicated controller so that you did not have to use your phone you had a handheld controller that you can carry around the house. it was about two or three years ago that they shut them all down. Even systems that were working perfect they got shut down and the owners were told they could get a coupon for $100 off the retail cost of a new speaker. Now that is planned obsolescence. the rest of the stuff is just equipment wearing out. The fact that they don't want you repairing it is another story. It's not that the manufacturers don't want you repairing old equipment that's all conspiracy theories, what they don't want to do is to have to manufacture parts for old obsolete equipment. That's what kept the prices of equipment very high back in the '70s and '80s was all the parts that had to be stocked for every piece of equipment that the company had made so that it could be repaired. Today they make the parts for the units that are being produced when they're changing to a different model they stop parts production they make enough parts to manufacture the planned run once the parts have been used the production stops and they move on to the next new model. This keeps production costs low and it keeps inventory storage low. People will complain about not being able to fix their old equipment and blame the manufacturers but the manufacturers are just trying to remain competitive if you're the only company that's warehousing parts your costs are going to be much higher than everyone else's and therefore you're going to have to sell your product for a lot more money than everyone else. The only reason that we saw the service business booming like it was for all those years that ended about 20 odd years ago was because in prior times the government's forced manufacturers to maintain their equipment. They had to maintain stock of every part used to repair equipment for start out at 10 years and then drop down to 6 years after the product went out of production. The automotive industry still has to maintain parts for older vehicles for a period of time after they go out of production but not the electronics not anymore it's cheaper for manufacturers just to replace a product that breaks under the manufacturer's warranty with a new one and most people are happy with that. in fact I think most people are happier getting a new product to replace something that broke then getting their old one fixed and sent back. I know I certainly would be that a piece of equipment breaks do I want the old one back or do I want a new one to replace it? I'll take the new one thank you.
@@castoferrer1609 highly unlikely you will get that much power. The transformer isn't that big. Look at a sansui 9090. The transformer is at least twice the size of this, it has 4 large output transistors per channel (this has 2) and it will put out only 115 watts all day long without breaking a sweat. My Technics suv9 also has a much larger transformer and it is 120 wpc. This has to power 5 channels and all the other electronics. Even if the system is in stereo the other channels are still idling away consuming power.
@@12voltvids I get what you saying. But technology today is not the same hardware built like 20-30 yrs ago. Todays technology is basically throw away garbage with 90 day limited warranty so people can go out and spend more money instead of repairing it. I've seen most expensive units made very cheap and expensive today and they still don't' even come any close to THD 0.005% of the Pioneer D1S. Reason why my piece lasted this long because I took great care of it and I barely use it. I installed a variable fan mod on mine to circulate and exhaust the heat correctly out the vents. I never abuse the power too extreme or go over half way dial volume. You cannot buy a product like this in today's new audio market! www.hifi-classic.net/review/pioneer-vsx-d1s-435.html?msclkid=2126382ec6fd11ecaa56e5959d8bda69
@@Utoobyourself I hear you. My equipment is all getting pretty long in the tooth. Not that I don't want new gear, just my old gear is working and even it breaks i fix it.
I found A Receiver on the Side of the Road Once . It Had A Single Fuse for each Channel . Glass Fuses like for A Car. Both Blown . I Replaced Them and It Worked Fine. Free !
I think that this unit is worth another look at another time. Although its design may be a little difficult to work on, its build quality is very good. Anyway thanks for the upload, it may help another people with similar problem to troubleshoot their own units.
I have this awesome receiver paired to the pioneer gr-777 and some veritas energy 3 speakers. It sounds awesome and I'd put it right in line with my Onkyo M508 Grand Integra and the P308 preamp. I bought the VSX-D1s in early 2000 in mint condition used from the original owner for 300.00. Just recently, I had to pay 500.00 to have some capacitors changed as it would give an electrical hum through the speakers. One day it worked fine and the next time I went to use it, it had the humming noise.
I have one that just did the same thing, its the second one of these to develop a hum like that. I was going to go through a full recap but happened on one that was new in the box for cheap so the other two just sit for now.
Maybe that pushed in speaker switch is shorting / shunting amp ? **Did you inject signal & trace it ? Part 2 is when, for revenge factor !! Don't Yam 'a Hop' it .. 📻.
Part 2 as soon as i have time. Backed up at the moment. Once i clear out the backlog and have some spare time it will be back on the bench. It's a real pig to work on. The layout sucks.it us stuff like this that reminds me why I quit the shop in 2003. The other reason was the owner was a difficult man to work for. There are a few words that some may use to describe him. A p--+- or a------ or d------- or c---------. Fill in the blanks. I will just leave it as a difficult to work for.
At 2:26 (the first small board you looked at) just below the line of driver I.C.'s there appears to be several solder joints with circular hairline cracks starting? Possibly from heat buildup
It's so funny to me that people in the U.S. feel the need to dub in the sound of the Red Tailed Hawk for the Bald Eagle because they think the Bald Eagle makes too wimpy of a sound.
WOW, I got the same issue with a Sony STR-DA50ES, there was a little foam cube that supported the bottom board that must have changed chemically after so many years, and somehow became electrically conductive and fried the board (and became super hard, the cube), it actually made a hole on the board and destroyed 2 traces for one of those flat multi wire, cable?, also blew 2 fuses, so I rewired and bypassed the traces and connected them on the next component down the line, some caps. But when i was done the amp worked for a few minutes on the radio until i tried to turn on the speakers (i was listening on headphones) then it went back into protection mode . I re-flowed a lot of stuff on the main board but nothing, protection mode still. Now am wondering if this video might give me some clues on how to fix it (i have not finished the video, so who knows, am only on the first 14min). The guy that owned it had bought it cheap on craigslist, like 10 or 20 bucks, so he gave it to me in payment for my time. I hope I can get it going at some point, it is a very nice amp, with top of the line caps, all audio grade, too bad they put all this stuff that ends up becoming electrically conductive, this cube thing was touching 2 legs of the flat cable connected on the board.
Thanks for the video, bummer. I have a Pioneer VSX-1014 TXK that has the right channel acting up by cutting out. Also, no sound from the headphone jack now.
Yep, I noticed that same cap too and just added a comment as well. It's not in a pair, so it's perhaps a single control rail rather than the +/- that would be a pair of audio rails.
Are those small ones down to the back of the main power supply that's the standby circuit for the remote control. If those ones go bad the unit won't turn on.
Wonderful troubleshooting video for Pioneer. My Pioneer sxv90 looks much easier to work on but ive never done a major repair like im try to accomplish now with the stereo not producing sound. The relay clicks but its dull sounding? If thats a thing. The unit gets hot after 20 to 30 mins. A bit to hot for just sitting there. So i dont know if this model had a protection mode. I assume it does. Or maybe a reset😂. Lol.
You can also try the reset button. It's located under the flip down panel on the front at the top left corner. Just use the end of a paper clip to press it and the receiver will shut off immediately. Just turn it on and the unit will be reset to the factory setup.Hope this helps..
I had one of these with the same problem and found that it had a small crack in the main bottom board and had to repair by using wire to reconnect the board circuit and then epoxying the crack.
I suspect that may be the case. Plus this was shipped a long way and the box best up. So there is a pretty good chance i am chasing more than one probkem. Then once It gets fixed there is the return trip with people handling a heavy box that hate their jobs. When they see "fragile electronics " on the box they give it a drop. Whoops, slipped dam!
This is not the last time you have seen this receiver I can assure you that there will be more work done on this one as it's a work in progress. It's become a challenge and when I get something with a challenge I can't let go.
Dave, I do rarely comment, but in this case I thought I just had to! At 2:20, I saw several cracked solder joints just below those for the drive ICs (the ones you reflowed)... You didn't seem to touch those up, and I'm thinking that might have something to do with the unit's problems... So, I'd say this one is worth a second look before being discarded! 73! David - EA3IEK in Barcelona (Spain)
They were touched up off camera. This video is severely cut down if I put all the footage on it would have been probably 3 hours long but after spending 9 hours working on this I wasn't going to spend another four or five hours editing. Most of the board has been gone over including the main processor ic on the main board, both audio input output boards were removed and the ICs and the interconnect connectors were reflowed, output transistors reflowed, about the only thing I have not gotten into is the shielded digital board at the front and the front panel and the reason for that is the wires that interconnect are too short to remove them. I tried to remove the faceplate and there's like about a half an inch of clearance and to take it out I've got to start disconnecting other stuff from the board. At this point I've wasted far too much time on this unit and there's no money in it even if I did get it working there's no way that the guy would pay what I should be charging for the amount of hours that were put into this unit. My big concern on this unit is because the plus 60 volt rail went open right at the filter between the filter and the main circuit, loss of 60 volt plus rail means that the 60 volt negative rail would pull all of the positive rail components to negative with respect to ground. So now you've got negative 60 volts floating on a rail that should be plus 60. Every electrolytic capacitor that has its positive lead connected to a rail that should have plus 60 volts now has like -55 on it. Every transistor and dialed that's expecting a positive supply now has a negative due to the imbalance caused by loss of the supply voltage. It's conceivable that there are multiple parts not just those two caps that had popped on that driver board but it's conceivable but that there are dozens of components that have been damaged and that's my concern. I should have written it off when I found that Trace that was popped open under that piece of rubber because once that happened you don't know where the damage is gone. It's like what happens on our North American residential electric service. You've got two hot wires and a neutral. Between either hot wire and neutral you have 120 volts between the two hot wires you have 240. If the neutral connection at the pole breaks for example you've now lost the 120 volt return and what you end up with is 240 volts at all of your electrical plugs. well you can imagine what happens to devices that are expecting $120 volts and all of a sudden they have 240 they tend to go pop. I had that happen to me once a number of years ago all of a sudden light bulbs started popping center in my house fortunately I was home and I knew what was happening and I shut off the main breaker and called the power company they sent the truck out right away they found that the neutral connection at the pole had corroded due to the salt air that we have here being close to the ocean. Alignment told me it's a good thing I shot off the main breaker because it could have started a fire. I was fortunate the only thing I lost was my refrigerator it blew the compressor a couple of magnetic ballast for fluorescent lamps burned out and some incandescent bulbs what pop it happened in the summer so the furnace wasn't on oh I think we lost the transformer for the for the for the thermostat but because the furnace wasn't operating we didn't lose the furnace or anything else so I was quite fortunate. All the same thing can happen in the stereo you lose one of the rails and any number of components can fail. I just stuck with it as long as I did because I felt bad for the fellow that sent it due to all the money he'd spent shipping it and then getting nailed with tax at the border because he filled out his paperwork incorrectly but such is life. Hopefully I will make back all the time I spent on this on the UA-cam revenue. I eventually will it'll take a while but I'll eventually make it back with the views if enough people watch this disaster.
@@12voltvids All understood! So the culprit in the end was definitely that rubber piece that basically ate away at the trace... and if that caused everything on the +60V path to be exposed to essentially the opposite polarity, yes, I can see how this could potentially have broken all kinds of havoc on all the components there... Oh well, in this case I wouldn't have spent much more time on it either... I guess that at least this is a cautionary tale of keeping an eye on our classic electronics as they age, because certain materials have this tendency of not getting along well anymore, when they're stuck together for very long periods of time! Anyways, I'll keep watching! 73!
@2:10 I thought it sounded like a raptor bird ! Nice to have a Baldie out the window , they are making a comeback here in Southern Ontario!! As well as Falcons and other raptors.. . They were very common on Vancouver Island of course. There was really no big news report that they got wiped out in Ontario.. but it was from Farm chemicals. It took almost 30 years for them to start coming back - they stopped using certain field dressings in the mid 80s.. those same chemicals wiped out the Snake populations as well.. ALL snakes, all Turtles. The Snapping turtles were the most versatile. Still don't see the field turtles anymore (not sure what to call them but you'd see Turtles in the sand when I was a kid in the 70s) they weren't snappers but sometimes you'd find a Snapper in the field run over by a tractor and doing just fine.. just pushed into the ground.
If you want some eagles come out to my neck of the woods we have too many of them they're everywhere. America's bird my ass we have so many of them here. And trust me they're not appreciated when they're living in the tree on your property! Just saying you've heard the term there's a bear crap in the woods? Well does an eagle crap in its nest no, they stick their rear end over the edge of the nest and let fly and if you happen to be below that tree or anything that you own is below that tree you're going to be frequently cleaning it. It's foul too I'll just tell you that. An old customer or the shop I worked at had one in a tree that was over his parking spot and one day he forgot and left the top down on his brand new BMW well he went inside to get something. In the 5 minutes he was inside the inside of his car was redecorated. All the upholstery had to be replaced because as he put it there's no way to get rid of that smell. $30,000 was the cost to repair the car as the seats were 10,000 a piece. I laughed when he was telling the story a number of years ago I forgot which model of BMW it was but I remember the guy bragging that he paid $150,000 for this car so it was a fancy one. Of course we all roared when he was telling us the story about his mishap with the eagle and his car.
@@12voltvids oh yeah that's appreciated LOL - are people feeding them like they did with the black bears and the black bears found sleeping in someones bed in the morning waiting for their handouts ! LOL crazy stuff man.
@@SPINNINGMYWHEELS777 no people aren't feeding them not that I am aware of. There are farms close by with lots of critters, mice rats rabbits you name it lots of food and of course there's the ocean so there's fish and the Fraser River there's fish there too. We also have recycling plants where they compost organics nearby so there's lots of organic food scraps and meat and stuff that set out in the compost where they get food and a garbage dump that's relatively close you know a few miles away. So there's lots of food for them here especially over the winter so they don't have to go anywhere and there's literally there are there are hundreds of them in this area there are so many eagles and Hawks and owls all the big raptors tons of them because there's a very abundant food supply for them. plus there's the orphaned wildlife rehab center were people will take injured raptors and owls and stuff where they've been either you know shot or injured by an animal or hit by a car or something and they've survived and they rehab these birds and then release them to the wild and a lot of them stay local once they've been released.
@@12voltvids right ! It just reminded me of the old folks home in our town here.. the ducks will come a half KM from the river and sit outside the windows waiting for the old folks to feed them crap. It's a very odd sight. LOL
@@SPINNINGMYWHEELS777 it is actually illegal to feed wild animals. Bird seed and humming bird feeders are the exception. The problem with bird feeders is they also attract squirrels and rats as birds are not the neatest of eaters. They will toss out undesirable seeds in search of the big sry corn kernals it sunflower seeds. The mess they create attracts smaller birds to pick up what they drop and rats and mice also show up. That brings 🐈 cats to the area hoping for a tasty snack.
I have this same receiver. Build like a tank. It's like the top of the line, but not the "Elite" Pioneer. I think the problem I had was power and going into the safety mode. I took electronics, but after looking inside I thought I'd take it to a place of repair. Needless to say it worked. At that time I was working 12 hour shifts, not able to enjoy my receiver. Well, wouldn't you know, the next time I go to turn it on, it's not working. Just days after there warranty ran out. Instead of paying again for what they done. I decided to look at it myself. It look as to me, they had made some jumper connection at the bottom of the board. I had no schematic but just looking for something that wasn't right. I found it. I took off the front panel, witch also has this door that opens and closes. Here's where I found what looked to be, a bad factory solder connection. Unbelievable had it fixed in no time. Taking off the front panel, must be careful not to brake the power button. Had to super glue.
I'm sure it is a bad solder connection because I found enough of them in it already. I've touched up probably 100 if not more so far in this unit. What you saw on video was just the tip of the iceberg because I spent about 9 hours on this unit and I'll be getting back on it again at a future date when I get time.
Some of these damn amps wont go past the relay switching on stage, the amp turns on, you can see signal on the level meters, just no output relay clicking sound!
It's not the switch that's bad it's just the plastic button that pushes a switch in behind it. Little plastic arms that hold it to the cabinet are broken
@@Jammerk40 well for now but this one will be back up on the bench. I'll probably spend another day on this thing or more I just have to clear some space for now and I'll get back on this when I get time and they'll be another video down the road.
You can spend many hours chasing your tail with little chance of returning these old receivers to a working condition. As Dave has said, who knows how many components have failed due to that negative 60 volts. The owner will be gutted after all the hassle and expense of shipping the unit. Nothing is worse than having to tell an owner that the item is beyond economic repair.
I *really* hate how a lot of these consumer AV components save a few bucks by not using connectors between boards. Instead, you get solid-core ribbon cables soldered directly, sometimes using plastic spacers that _look_ like connectors but aren't removable, or the kind of wire receivers that clamp onto the cable and can't be reused. I've actually looked at replacing some of those on some Kenwood components I was working on, but I couldn't find anything with similar pin spacing. The closest I came required a $1000 crimping tool. I would be better off redesigning the PCBs.. :-P
I`m confused as to how the positive rail turned negative, surely it would just be zero volts on that rail when the circuit trace broke? if anyone can correct me then please let me know
Pulled negative by the bias on the negative side. The slight idle current would pull the positive rail negative. That's why it was around 53 volts when the rail is 60
So there is no positive or negative voltages on the speaker terminals and before the relay, so the amplifier is o.k. I would look at the relay drive and see where it goes on the front board. I can't see the control board getting the plus or minus 60 volts, amplifier use only. Are all the power supplies o.k, not just the 60v ones. Or have you done all of that off camera?. The return shipping cost may stop him wanting it back, so it don't matter if you cant fix it.
When I ship a repaired camera from the US back to Canada, I insure for a maximum of $200. Any more than that triggers VAT tax to the end user. Since it is not a retail purchase, customer should not have to pay import tax. Do not over-insure!
Depending on the way the papers were filled you might get it back for nothing by just refusing to accept it. Beware that if they didn't check the option to return it (and that might also depend on carrier of course...) customs might keep it or destroy it!
Too much hassle for me. Owner pays taxes. If they want to try to claim after it is returned they can but be I dont get involved with that. Normally equipment being sent to Canada for repair and return has no tax. The sender put a large declared value and that triggers tax because they think I am importing permanently. V
I feel sorry for the owner - reminds me of when I purchased a lens from canada and the seller sent it via fedex with an inflated declared value - worst purchase ever
I purchased a clock kit from a seller in Europe and he did the same put a value of 250 on a bag of parts. I refused the package and then filed a chargeback. He wasn't happy. I told him if he had been fair and put a declared value on what the sum of the parts would have been it would have sailed through and he would have had a competed sale. But instead he got his parts back had to pay the shipping and got a bad review in the process.
My question is why you tortured yourself with that de solder wick, even a manual solder sucker would have made life way easier, at least at the part you started to complain..excuse me if you feel im wrong in my assessment.
H A T E it when that happens - I hope the owner throws cash at you so you can justify your time to (attempt to) fix it completely. May require a "real dog" electronic repair GoFundMe and gather big bucks to rescue that sick puppy.
Well this one is is become a challenge and this is not the last that you'll see of this receiver, I can assure you that that there will be more work done on this and there will be probably more video I'm just done on it working for it right now as I have other stuff piling up. So this will get revisited again and hopefully we'll have a better outcome as I do some more troubleshooting and testing. I've got it kind of narrowed down I know what it's not, I know the amplifier is working for all the channels because I can inject the signal and I can get clean output at the speaker relay with no DC voltage so I know that that section is working. I know that I've got good levels at the volume control. But I have low levels at the preamp out and the speakers relays are stuck in protect mode. That's where I stopped working on it and have to set it aside to get to other things. So when it gets slow if that ever happens and I'm looking for a challenge this one will be back up on the bench. I've been in contact with the fellow that owns it and he's okay with me taking my time and is prepared to put some money into this one to get it back running so the end game is to get it running but I don't have a time frame on when that might be hopefully not too long. But I agree this was a nice amp when it's working and it has lots of power that's for sure from the main speakers the center and rear channeler a lot lower power as they're running off of a 35 volt as opposed to 60 volt per rail power supply. What I do need to investigate is what's going on in that shielded board up front like that's where the Dolby circuits are. What are they challenges with this is the service manual is an absolute disaster. It's probably one of the worst laid out PDF files I've seen with everything jumping from one page to the next and really what needs to be done is print the schematic out on paper and join all the pieces together because as it sits trying to decipher what goes where off the computer screen is impossible. Again for another day when I get caught up on some of the other stuff that I've got going on here it will be back up on the bench. I've invested a bunch of time on it now and I really would like to get this one going. Challenge accepted as they say.
why are people so afraid of the border tax people?? it's an odd cognitive dissonance - it's a broken unit that one could value at $5 - end of problem.. why do they value it like it was new in box sold in a electronics super store??
Sentimental or not i just hate it when people put a high dollar value of broken electronics because i hate the government collecting sales tax on something that is not a sale. Items with a declared value less than 20 there is no tax. Items exported for repair also have no tax. it's all in the paperwork. Insured value and declared value are different but if you put a declared value of 20 and an insured value of 1000 unfortunately that raises eyebrows too. I think this is only the 3 or 4th time in the past 5 or 6 years that taxes were assessed. One time i tried to make a claim for tax refund after exporting but it was as denied as i couldn't provide proof that I had charged sales tax on the repair. The only time this was ever suscessful was after someone stuffed me by crying to PayPal, whom gave them a refund and i was out over 170 in tax i had paid for an unrepairable camera. I drove to the border filled out paperwork for export took it across the line and stuck it in the first garbage can i could find and then got my refund. They stamped the paper work at the border as I was crossing into the USA. Of course it was easy to drop a handycam into the trash bin at a gas station. Something big would be more difficult to dispose of.
@@12voltvids exactly - or things taxed constantly after the initial sale where it was first taxed fully - when something is sold used by 'some guy' not with a brick and mortar store.. no tax should ever be applied.. like a garage sale or flea market. They are slowly creating a tax fence online to apply taxes for goods sold online (after being taxed by the platform you sell on and then your payment processor) regardless of used or new status - it's filthy.
PayPal and patreon is now collecting us income tax if they determine that you are being paid for a service. The cut off is 500 a year. Make more than that and they start withholding tax. UA-cam takes 30% and sends it to IRS
I really like your vids but can’t enjoy them like before. I bugs me you made that fake video about finding the money in the VCR. April fools or not, that was poor taste.
What I think is in poor taste is that he destroyed the bottom of that Yamaha cuz he was too lazy to pull circuit board out properly the quality of his workmanship on people's property is disgusting and he's getting worse over the years
That was not a fake video I actually did find money in a piece of equipment. It wasn't that piece of equipment because the piece of equipment that I found it in was easily identifiable. I won't say what it was but I did find it inside. The VCR that it was put in was one of mine that I had worked on also about 8 years prior. This was done so that anyone coming out of the woodwork trying to claim that it was theirs, I could pull a video that was shot 8 years ago and show it to them and tell them to f--k off. Do you really think I'm not stupid that when I found the cash in the machine that I would show it on the internet? Of course not and I won't even tell you when I got the equipment or what it was in. But think about it for a minute the cash was an old issue, all sequential bills. It was found in a piece of equipment that I acquired and I'm not going to say anymore as to where I acquired it. it could have been given to me, I could have bought it at the thrift shop. I'm not even going to say whether I got it. The day I made the video or a month either because I don't want to give away any information that someone may use to try to make claim. The piece of equipment it was found in was reviewed on my channel again I'm not saying anymore because someone will try to come out of the woodwork and claim it was theirs. But I can assure you it was not in April fool's joke it just so happened that I published the video a day early. And the timing of it was also pre-planned. anyone that knows anything about Canadian currency knows that that series of bills has not been seen for at least 20 years. The only thing I will confirm is it was not a piece of equipment that I was repairing for a customer. That would be easy for someone to identify. I do have video of the equipment that it was in when I opened it that obviously I'm not showing.
I cut the bottom of the Yamaha because the owner of it directed me to do it. It belongs to the son of a man that I did lots of work for, that ran a local business and I did all of his film to video transfers for him back in the 90s. I've known this guy pretty much this entire life because I used to do work for his dad. It's an old beat up stereo that he uses on his patio and I wasn't charging him for it at least not for this one he paid me a little bit to disconnect the center channel which he didn't need. I told him I could pull the board but I'd have to charge him for the time or I could fix it quick for free. He chose the free option again because he doesn't care. When he contacted me about it he told me he had a broken stereo that he used on his patio and asked me if I had any that I could sell him. I said sure I can sell you a stereo but let's look at your other one first. He was ready to throw this in the garbage and buy a used one from me. What you might consider legacy equipment most people consider throwaway equipment and they don't want to spend money on it and in this case it was a free repair and he was fine with how it looks because it's outside sitting beside his barbecue on a shelf. He doesn't care what it looks like it's going to look a lot worse as time goes by because it sits outside. So I don't care what your opinions are, I do what my customers ask and if they're okay with me cutting a hole in the bottom to get easy access for repair then I will do that. if they want me to take the board out and fix it properly and are prepared to pay me a hundred bucks or $150 to do it I'm all for making money but people don't want to spend that kind of money on this old crap. This is what you have to understand this is old crap and you might think it's great maybe you overpaid for a piece of this old crap but this is old crap. Where I live everybody's got lots of money, homes here, a tear down will sell for 1.5 million a new home three maybe four million. In my neighborhood everybody has lots of money and they don't fix stuff they throw it out and buy new and if they do fix it they won't spend any money on it because they'd much rather have a nice new one. The guy that owns this one just built a nice big new house on a golf course. He has all brand new equipment in the house this is an old piece they had 20 years ago that now it's just for entertaining out in this patio while he watches the golfers play The back nine right out in his backyard.
@@12voltvids I don't think it matters but they guy said or maybe you should have done that on video because it looks really bad that your name is on a hack job like that thousands of people are going to see and you know a lot of stuff and you can do much better than that man
I think all my hopes are gone. My Vsx d1s have the same problem. If you wait some time when he is on the speaker relays click and the sound comes on...
I am thinking either a yet undescovered cold joint or a bad cap somewhere that takes its time charging up. I will be back on this one soon to check more stuff. When things slow down a bit.
@@12voltvids As I mentioned in another comment, I'd check all of the LV dc rails. In these amps, they like to build linear regulators out of discrete transistors and zener diodes - often times the transistors or zeners go bad, and the DC rails kind of drift around - this is especially the case if you leave it on for a while, and suddenly it clicks and starts working - the DC rail happened to drift to the proper value, and it came out of protection. I fixed a Technics receiver that had that problem a long time ago. You have the schematic, just look for all of the discretely built linear regulators hanging off the rectified transformer output - they should be labeled with their voltage on the schematic. Check all of them
@@gorak9000 i am fully aware how they build them. The problem us accessing some so they can be measured while the unit us under power. I do have the print, but have to print it and put together as trying to follow across multiple pages on the screen is an absolute joke. When manufactures put our electronic manuals it was bad enough but at least you could scroll around. When they are scanned from a print however you end up with partial pages and they need to be printed and taped together to actually be able to read them.
Few time ago i read something about a capacitor C07 (10000uf 80V) on F-2625. And a C1304/220uf/10V that is partly responsible for the relay time delay. Don't know if this could help
Wow very interesting video...you are the master and very professional engineer 👏 😊I have question please on my VINTAGE SHARP VZ 3510 VERTICAL LINEAR TRACKING RECORD PLAYER when I plug in the power and switch on and select radio or cassette player and there is no sound coming out from the speakers only loud humming / buzzing sound? But if I plug my headphones in the stereo I can hear sound on the headphones radio and cassette player as I was looking at the power supply and found the Bridge rectifier getting hot?and I have cleaned all the switches and pots with contact cleaner Hosa Caig Deoxit Contact Cleaner and still the same problem humming noise coming from speakers? This is the link for the service manual download elektrotanya.com/sharp_vz-3500h_vz3500hb_vz3500e_sm.pdf/download.html Please can please kindly help me on this issue 🙏 🙂 waiting for your kind reply Thankyou 🙏
Just wanted to say a big thank you to you. Inspired and informed by your recent videos I was able to diagnose and fix an old friend My Marantz SR390 AV Amp. Nothing special, but it has lived with me since new (1995ish). Its been with me through single life and marriage and been a dependable unit and recently developed distortion in one channel. Thanks to you I had the confidence to take it apart and reflow a few joints and its now re-commissioned. Brilliant! Thanks again Andrew, London UK.🙂
24:21 - look at that bulging capacitor in the PSU, below the 2 main rail caps and next to the small Rubycon with K on the top. It might be (not) smoothing a rail that's supplying a standby voltage or some control voltage that the mute and protection circuit is running off?
most of those power supply caps including the main filters looked in not good shape should have been replaced they will fail in the near future.
I've seen where they stay in protection mode when one of the low voltage rails is out of spec. They really like making linear regulators out of discrete transistors and zener diodes in receivers for some reason, and they tend to go bad (both the zeners or the transistors), and it throws the rail voltage off. Then somewhere there's a comparitor or something that's comparing the incorrect rail voltage to some signal that comes from the protection circuit, and it keeps it in protection. You have the schematic, so it should be fairly easy to identify all the LV dc rails and check them all.
one of the best video. love amp/receivers repairs
I have the same exact Pioneer AV receiver complete w/ remote, manual, G77 EQ, and Duel Tape deck. Purchased back in 1990 for $1300. Speaker amplifiers are rated to deliver 130 watts each into 8 ohms from 20 to 20,000 Hz with no more than 0.005 percent total harmonic distortion (THD). Obviously, the VSX-D1S is a true powerhouse receiver, more than able to drive the vast majority of speaker systems to their limits without straining its amplifiers. 30+ yrs later still kicking. The D1S was considered one of the BEST TOP OF THE LINE series Pioneer has ever made. Everything else after that was total garbage. All in all, the Pioneer VSX-D1S is a large, heavy, powerful, expensive, highly versatile, and fine-sounding receiver. @ 31:44 stupid design , I agree. 12volts, I just want to say, Thank you for your knowledge, expertise and all you do to help out youtubers with your troubleshooting / and repair videos. Greatly appreciated Thank you!!
it was a good design until you get to that point where there's a portion that you cannot access without taking everything apart. If only they made that hatch a little bit bigger right. But the real problem here was those rubber supports stuck to the board anytime you put that circuit glue down you run the risk that you're going to create problems down the road. But then this stuff was never made to last 30 years so if you've got 30 years out of a piece of equipment you're lucky because it was never designed to last that long. No matter how much you paid for it or how great the piece was these devices are only engineered to last maybe 10 to 15 years. so the fact that it's lasted this long it's been on borrowed time for a while. Nothing lasts forever nothing is designed to last forever some people will call it planned ops license I don't know that I would go that far as to calling it planned obsolescence. If they really did have planned up lessons in mind they would have an expiration timer couple to the random fault generator. Think about it for just a second if manufacturers really did want their equipment to fail they can design it with microprocessors and everything these days they could design it so that it will run for x number of hours regardless whether it's still sounding greater looking great when it gets to that time it just shuts off. That would be planned obsolescence. I can think of one company that has already done that oh there's a few but one big one that sticks out of the Sonos. do you remember what they did to all their first generation speakers the ones that came with their own dedicated controller so that you did not have to use your phone you had a handheld controller that you can carry around the house. it was about two or three years ago that they shut them all down. Even systems that were working perfect they got shut down and the owners were told they could get a coupon for $100 off the retail cost of a new speaker. Now that is planned obsolescence. the rest of the stuff is just equipment wearing out. The fact that they don't want you repairing it is another story. It's not that the manufacturers don't want you repairing old equipment that's all conspiracy theories, what they don't want to do is to have to manufacture parts for old obsolete equipment. That's what kept the prices of equipment very high back in the '70s and '80s was all the parts that had to be stocked for every piece of equipment that the company had made so that it could be repaired. Today they make the parts for the units that are being produced when they're changing to a different model they stop parts production they make enough parts to manufacture the planned run once the parts have been used the production stops and they move on to the next new model. This keeps production costs low and it keeps inventory storage low. People will complain about not being able to fix their old equipment and blame the manufacturers but the manufacturers are just trying to remain competitive if you're the only company that's warehousing parts your costs are going to be much higher than everyone else's and therefore you're going to have to sell your product for a lot more money than everyone else. The only reason that we saw the service business booming like it was for all those years that ended about 20 odd years ago was because in prior times the government's forced manufacturers to maintain their equipment. They had to maintain stock of every part used to repair equipment for start out at 10 years and then drop down to 6 years after the product went out of production. The automotive industry still has to maintain parts for older vehicles for a period of time after they go out of production but not the electronics not anymore it's cheaper for manufacturers just to replace a product that breaks under the manufacturer's warranty with a new one and most people are happy with that. in fact I think most people are happier getting a new product to replace something that broke then getting their old one fixed and sent back. I know I certainly would be that a piece of equipment breaks do I want the old one back or do I want a new one to replace it? I'll take the new one thank you.
conservative 130 watts. clips @ 160
@@castoferrer1609 highly unlikely you will get that much power. The transformer isn't that big. Look at a sansui 9090. The transformer is at least twice the size of this, it has 4 large output transistors per channel (this has 2) and it will put out only 115 watts all day long without breaking a sweat.
My Technics suv9 also has a much larger transformer and it is 120 wpc. This has to power 5 channels and all the other electronics. Even if the system is in stereo the other channels are still idling away consuming power.
@@12voltvids I get what you saying. But technology today is not the same hardware built like 20-30 yrs ago. Todays technology is basically throw away garbage with 90 day limited warranty so people can go out and spend more money instead of repairing it. I've seen most expensive units made very cheap and expensive today and they still don't' even come any close to THD 0.005% of the Pioneer D1S. Reason why my piece lasted this long because I took great care of it and I barely use it. I installed a variable fan mod on mine to circulate and exhaust the heat correctly out the vents. I never abuse the power too extreme or go over half way dial volume. You cannot buy a product like this in today's new audio market!
www.hifi-classic.net/review/pioneer-vsx-d1s-435.html?msclkid=2126382ec6fd11ecaa56e5959d8bda69
@@Utoobyourself I hear you. My equipment is all getting pretty long in the tooth. Not that I don't want new gear, just my old gear is working and even it breaks i fix it.
I found A Receiver on the Side of the Road Once . It Had A Single Fuse for each Channel . Glass Fuses like for A Car. Both Blown . I Replaced Them and It Worked Fine. Free !
This one has 6. All good.
@@12voltvids Wow OK . I like Your Videos . They are Very Helpful. Thanks for Putting Them up.
I think that this unit is worth another look at another time. Although its design may be a little difficult to work on, its build quality is very good. Anyway thanks for the upload, it may help another people with similar problem to troubleshoot their own units.
go ahead, take it on
It's fixed
I have this awesome receiver paired to the pioneer gr-777 and some veritas energy 3 speakers. It sounds awesome and I'd put it right in line with my Onkyo M508 Grand Integra and the P308 preamp. I bought the VSX-D1s in early 2000 in mint condition used from the original owner for 300.00. Just recently, I had to pay 500.00 to have some capacitors changed as it would give an electrical hum through the speakers. One day it worked fine and the next time I went to use it, it had the humming noise.
I have one that just did the same thing, its the second one of these to develop a hum like that. I was going to go through a full recap but happened on one that was new in the box for cheap so the other two just sit for now.
ended up being even more frustrating than the yamahahahahah to work on ;)
Well at least the Yamaha i could cut a hole in the bottom.
Maybe that pushed in speaker switch is shorting / shunting amp ?
**Did you inject signal & trace it ?
Part 2 is when, for revenge factor !!
Don't Yam 'a Hop' it .. 📻.
Part 2 as soon as i have time. Backed up at the moment. Once i clear out the backlog and have some spare time it will be back on the bench. It's a real pig to work on. The layout sucks.it us stuff like this that reminds me why I quit the shop in 2003. The other reason was the owner was a difficult man to work for. There are a few words that some may use to describe him. A p--+- or a------ or d------- or c---------. Fill in the blanks. I will just leave it as a difficult to work for.
At 2:26 (the first small board you looked at) just below the line of driver I.C.'s there appears to be several solder joints with circular hairline cracks starting? Possibly from heat buildup
They were all touched up.
It's so funny to me that people in the U.S. feel the need to dub in the sound of the Red Tailed Hawk for the Bald Eagle because they think the Bald Eagle makes too wimpy of a sound.
Yep for sure
hell! i wished i had a Bald Eagle making noise on my back yard. all i get around here are finches nesting on my front yard bushes this time of year.
WOW, I got the same issue with a Sony STR-DA50ES, there was a little foam cube that supported the bottom board that must have changed chemically after so many years, and somehow became electrically conductive and fried the board (and became super hard, the cube), it actually made a hole on the board and destroyed 2 traces for one of those flat multi wire, cable?, also blew 2 fuses, so I rewired and bypassed the traces and connected them on the next component down the line, some caps. But when i was done the amp worked for a few minutes on the radio until i tried to turn on the speakers (i was listening on headphones) then it went back into protection mode . I re-flowed a lot of stuff on the main board but nothing, protection mode still. Now am wondering if this video might give me some clues on how to fix it (i have not finished the video, so who knows, am only on the first 14min). The guy that owned it had bought it cheap on craigslist, like 10 or 20 bucks, so he gave it to me in payment for my time. I hope I can get it going at some point, it is a very nice amp, with top of the line caps, all audio grade, too bad they put all this stuff that ends up becoming electrically conductive, this cube thing was touching 2 legs of the flat cable connected on the board.
well, i finished the video and damn, seems like the same issue as mine, not an simple fix
Could the messed up speaker switch have something to do with this issue?
Thanks for the video, bummer. I have a Pioneer VSX-1014 TXK that has the right channel acting up by cutting out. Also, no sound from the headphone jack now.
33:18 My Technics Amp SU-V4x sound cut out here... First time it has ever done this! I think it was feeling the pain from the Pioneer!
It looked like a bulging cap next to the main filter caps.
Yep, I noticed that same cap too and just added a comment as well. It's not in a pair, so it's perhaps a single control rail rather than the +/- that would be a pair of audio rails.
Are those small ones down to the back of the main power supply that's the standby circuit for the remote control. If those ones go bad the unit won't turn on.
Wonderful troubleshooting video for Pioneer. My Pioneer sxv90 looks much easier to work on but ive never done a major repair like im try to accomplish now with the stereo not producing sound. The relay clicks but its dull sounding? If thats a thing. The unit gets hot after 20 to 30 mins. A bit to hot for just sitting there. So i dont know if this model had a protection mode. I assume it does. Or maybe a reset😂. Lol.
You may have already seen / fixed what looks to be a dry joint at 8:48 (top row, 2nd pin from the right), but just in case.
You can also try the reset button. It's located under the flip down panel on the front at the top left corner. Just use the end of a paper clip to press it and the receiver will shut off immediately. Just turn it on and the unit will be reset to the factory setup.Hope this helps..
First thing i tried.
I had one of these with the same problem and found that it had a small crack in the main bottom board and had to repair by using wire to reconnect the board circuit and then epoxying the crack.
I suspect that may be the case. Plus this was shipped a long way and the box best up. So there is a pretty good chance i am chasing more than one probkem. Then once It gets fixed there is the return trip with people handling a heavy box that hate their jobs. When they see "fragile electronics " on the box they give it a drop. Whoops, slipped dam!
1:30 I was waiting for that!!! 😂🤣😂
The Power doesn't seem to work when I plug it in it cut on but my power button won't cut off what do you think it is
42:47 - How could the positive rail reverse polarity simply due to the negative supply failing?
Positive supply went open. Negative side pulled the now open positive side to negative.
Pioneer is ok as long they work once in need for repair better buy a new one repair shops hates them with a passion
I can see why.
omg yes 12volt vids on a d1s
This is not the last time you have seen this receiver I can assure you that there will be more work done on this one as it's a work in progress. It's become a challenge and when I get something with a challenge I can't let go.
@@12voltvids amen!
Dave, I do rarely comment, but in this case I thought I just had to! At 2:20, I saw several cracked solder joints just below those for the drive ICs (the ones you reflowed)... You didn't seem to touch those up, and I'm thinking that might have something to do with the unit's problems... So, I'd say this one is worth a second look before being discarded! 73! David - EA3IEK in Barcelona (Spain)
They were touched up off camera. This video is severely cut down if I put all the footage on it would have been probably 3 hours long but after spending 9 hours working on this I wasn't going to spend another four or five hours editing. Most of the board has been gone over including the main processor ic on the main board, both audio input output boards were removed and the ICs and the interconnect connectors were reflowed, output transistors reflowed, about the only thing I have not gotten into is the shielded digital board at the front and the front panel and the reason for that is the wires that interconnect are too short to remove them. I tried to remove the faceplate and there's like about a half an inch of clearance and to take it out I've got to start disconnecting other stuff from the board. At this point I've wasted far too much time on this unit and there's no money in it even if I did get it working there's no way that the guy would pay what I should be charging for the amount of hours that were put into this unit. My big concern on this unit is because the plus 60 volt rail went open right at the filter between the filter and the main circuit, loss of 60 volt plus rail means that the 60 volt negative rail would pull all of the positive rail components to negative with respect to ground. So now you've got negative 60 volts floating on a rail that should be plus 60. Every electrolytic capacitor that has its positive lead connected to a rail that should have plus 60 volts now has like -55 on it. Every transistor and dialed that's expecting a positive supply now has a negative due to the imbalance caused by loss of the supply voltage. It's conceivable that there are multiple parts not just those two caps that had popped on that driver board but it's conceivable but that there are dozens of components that have been damaged and that's my concern. I should have written it off when I found that Trace that was popped open under that piece of rubber because once that happened you don't know where the damage is gone. It's like what happens on our North American residential electric service. You've got two hot wires and a neutral. Between either hot wire and neutral you have 120 volts between the two hot wires you have 240. If the neutral connection at the pole breaks for example you've now lost the 120 volt return and what you end up with is 240 volts at all of your electrical plugs. well you can imagine what happens to devices that are expecting $120 volts and all of a sudden they have 240 they tend to go pop. I had that happen to me once a number of years ago all of a sudden light bulbs started popping center in my house fortunately I was home and I knew what was happening and I shut off the main breaker and called the power company they sent the truck out right away they found that the neutral connection at the pole had corroded due to the salt air that we have here being close to the ocean. Alignment told me it's a good thing I shot off the main breaker because it could have started a fire. I was fortunate the only thing I lost was my refrigerator it blew the compressor a couple of magnetic ballast for fluorescent lamps burned out and some incandescent bulbs what pop it happened in the summer so the furnace wasn't on oh I think we lost the transformer for the for the for the thermostat but because the furnace wasn't operating we didn't lose the furnace or anything else so I was quite fortunate. All the same thing can happen in the stereo you lose one of the rails and any number of components can fail. I just stuck with it as long as I did because I felt bad for the fellow that sent it due to all the money he'd spent shipping it and then getting nailed with tax at the border because he filled out his paperwork incorrectly but such is life. Hopefully I will make back all the time I spent on this on the UA-cam revenue. I eventually will it'll take a while but I'll eventually make it back with the views if enough people watch this disaster.
@@12voltvids All understood! So the culprit in the end was definitely that rubber piece that basically ate away at the trace... and if that caused everything on the +60V path to be exposed to essentially the opposite polarity, yes, I can see how this could potentially have broken all kinds of havoc on all the components there... Oh well, in this case I wouldn't have spent much more time on it either... I guess that at least this is a cautionary tale of keeping an eye on our classic electronics as they age, because certain materials have this tendency of not getting along well anymore, when they're stuck together for very long periods of time! Anyways, I'll keep watching! 73!
@2:10 I thought it sounded like a raptor bird ! Nice to have a Baldie out the window , they are making a comeback here in Southern Ontario!! As well as Falcons and other raptors.. . They were very common on Vancouver Island of course. There was really no big news report that they got wiped out in Ontario.. but it was from Farm chemicals. It took almost 30 years for them to start coming back - they stopped using certain field dressings in the mid 80s.. those same chemicals wiped out the Snake populations as well.. ALL snakes, all Turtles. The Snapping turtles were the most versatile. Still don't see the field turtles anymore (not sure what to call them but you'd see Turtles in the sand when I was a kid in the 70s) they weren't snappers but sometimes you'd find a Snapper in the field run over by a tractor and doing just fine.. just pushed into the ground.
If you want some eagles come out to my neck of the woods we have too many of them they're everywhere. America's bird my ass we have so many of them here. And trust me they're not appreciated when they're living in the tree on your property! Just saying you've heard the term there's a bear crap in the woods? Well does an eagle crap in its nest no, they stick their rear end over the edge of the nest and let fly and if you happen to be below that tree or anything that you own is below that tree you're going to be frequently cleaning it. It's foul too I'll just tell you that. An old customer or the shop I worked at had one in a tree that was over his parking spot and one day he forgot and left the top down on his brand new BMW well he went inside to get something. In the 5 minutes he was inside the inside of his car was redecorated. All the upholstery had to be replaced because as he put it there's no way to get rid of that smell. $30,000 was the cost to repair the car as the seats were 10,000 a piece. I laughed when he was telling the story a number of years ago I forgot which model of BMW it was but I remember the guy bragging that he paid $150,000 for this car so it was a fancy one. Of course we all roared when he was telling us the story about his mishap with the eagle and his car.
@@12voltvids oh yeah that's appreciated LOL - are people feeding them like they did with the black bears and the black bears found sleeping in someones bed in the morning waiting for their handouts ! LOL crazy stuff man.
@@SPINNINGMYWHEELS777 no people aren't feeding them not that I am aware of. There are farms close by with lots of critters, mice rats rabbits you name it lots of food and of course there's the ocean so there's fish and the Fraser River there's fish there too. We also have recycling plants where they compost organics nearby so there's lots of organic food scraps and meat and stuff that set out in the compost where they get food and a garbage dump that's relatively close you know a few miles away. So there's lots of food for them here especially over the winter so they don't have to go anywhere and there's literally there are there are hundreds of them in this area there are so many eagles and Hawks and owls all the big raptors tons of them because there's a very abundant food supply for them. plus there's the orphaned wildlife rehab center were people will take injured raptors and owls and stuff where they've been either you know shot or injured by an animal or hit by a car or something and they've survived and they rehab these birds and then release them to the wild and a lot of them stay local once they've been released.
@@12voltvids right ! It just reminded me of the old folks home in our town here.. the ducks will come a half KM from the river and sit outside the windows waiting for the old folks to feed them crap. It's a very odd sight. LOL
@@SPINNINGMYWHEELS777 it is actually illegal to feed wild animals. Bird seed and humming bird feeders are the exception. The problem with bird feeders is they also attract squirrels and rats as birds are not the neatest of eaters. They will toss out undesirable seeds in search of the big sry corn kernals it sunflower seeds. The mess they create attracts smaller birds to pick up what they drop and rats and mice also show up. That brings 🐈 cats to the area hoping for a tasty snack.
I have this same receiver. Build like a tank. It's like the top of the line, but not the "Elite" Pioneer. I think the problem I had was power and going into the safety mode. I took electronics, but after looking inside I thought I'd take it to a place of repair. Needless to say it worked. At that time I was working 12 hour shifts, not able to enjoy my receiver. Well, wouldn't you know, the next time I go to turn it on, it's not working. Just days after there warranty ran out. Instead of paying again for what they done. I decided to look at it myself. It look as to me, they had made some jumper connection at the bottom of the board. I had no schematic but just looking for something that wasn't right. I found it. I took off the front panel, witch also has this door that opens and closes. Here's where I found what looked to be, a bad factory solder connection. Unbelievable had it fixed in no time. Taking off the front panel, must be careful not to brake the power button. Had to super glue.
I'm sure it is a bad solder connection because I found enough of them in it already. I've touched up probably 100 if not more so far in this unit. What you saw on video was just the tip of the iceberg because I spent about 9 hours on this unit and I'll be getting back on it again at a future date when I get time.
Did it have the pre out-amp in jumpers?
Why don't you measure the DC offset at the beginning ?
Forget it, I see that you did it at 10:21 after reflowing possible cold solder joints ...
Bro teac 8800 av receiver only front lift right chanels not sound bro centre back sorrounding is good work but problem plz reply me
It's broken. Sorry have no idea.
@@12voltvids brother my shop mechanic only amplefers repairs own but not av receivers repairs ??
I would check behind the front panel for faults.
I have looked in the digital board in the big can. Regulator had dry solder. Was hopeful but nope still down.
Sometimes I have been Jack switch can be stuck on the headphones can do that to
No switch on headphones jack
Some of these damn amps wont go past the relay switching on stage, the amp turns on, you can see signal on the level meters, just no output relay clicking sound!
Usually leakage on the board by circuit glue or a capacitor in the soft start going bad.
Tomorrow I’m taking in my Denon 5805 for repair it’s under repair warranty Problem with left and right channel centre channel ok though
Dave did you fix the speaker B switch?
It's not the switch that's bad it's just the plastic button that pushes a switch in behind it. Little plastic arms that hold it to the cabinet are broken
@@12voltvids Got Ya! Cool! Oh well you have your good and bad ones! This was one of the bad ones!
@@Jammerk40 well for now but this one will be back up on the bench. I'll probably spend another day on this thing or more I just have to clear some space for now and I'll get back on this when I get time and they'll be another video down the road.
@@12voltvids Looking forward to a possible follow-up if you manage to get it running again... I think it could definitely be interesting!
I have clients mark the item as Repair/Return and CBSA will still assess tax & duty on the declared value
That's right. No declared value. Or 20.00 max.
It's too bad something like this happened. Thanks for sharing.
You can spend many hours chasing your tail with little chance of returning these old receivers to a working condition.
As Dave has said, who knows how many components have failed due to that negative 60 volts.
The owner will be gutted after all the hassle and expense of shipping the unit.
Nothing is worse than having to tell an owner that the item is beyond economic repair.
Or you take your pet to the vet and the vet says your pet is beyond repair.
they are piles of junk out of the factory
@@SPINNINGMYWHEELS777 Pets?
I *really* hate how a lot of these consumer AV components save a few bucks by not using connectors between boards. Instead, you get solid-core ribbon cables soldered directly, sometimes using plastic spacers that _look_ like connectors but aren't removable, or the kind of wire receivers that clamp onto the cable and can't be reused.
I've actually looked at replacing some of those on some Kenwood components I was working on, but I couldn't find anything with similar pin spacing. The closest I came required a $1000 crimping tool. I would be better off redesigning the PCBs.. :-P
Yes terrible design.
I`m confused as to how the positive rail turned negative, surely it would just be zero volts on that rail when the circuit trace broke? if anyone can correct me then please let me know
Pulled negative by the bias on the negative side. The slight idle current would pull the positive rail negative. That's why it was around 53 volts when the rail is 60
@@12voltvids thanks Dave
please someone have schematic diagram for pioneer vsa-1000..have same problem...
I can't fix that if u need help let me know
So there is no positive or negative voltages on the speaker terminals and before the relay, so the amplifier is o.k.
I would look at the relay drive and see where it goes on the front board.
I can't see the control board getting the plus or minus 60 volts, amplifier use only.
Are all the power supplies o.k, not just the 60v ones.
Or have you done all of that off camera?.
The return shipping cost may stop him wanting it back, so it don't matter if you cant fix it.
When I ship a repaired camera from the US back to Canada, I insure for a maximum of $200. Any more than that triggers VAT tax to the end user. Since it is not a retail purchase, customer should not have to pay import tax. Do not over-insure!
Depending on the way the papers were filled you might get it back for nothing by just refusing to accept it. Beware that if they didn't check the option to return it (and that might also depend on carrier of course...) customs might keep it or destroy it!
Too much hassle for me. Owner pays taxes. If they want to try to claim after it is returned they can but be I dont get involved with that. Normally equipment being sent to Canada for repair and return has no tax. The sender put a large declared value and that triggers tax because they think I am importing permanently. V
El Junkaria!
I would like to get the guy who designed that unit
you went from bragging about this design to cursing it :)
It looked promising untill I got into it 😧
👍👍😎✌️
Excellent job but I don't like these machines at all. You confirmed why.
Well I will be spending more time with this beast when i get a chance.
They have to click twice the main amp comes in first then prea amp my Yamaha dose it
Main power relay then speaker relay.
I feel sorry for the owner - reminds me of when I purchased a lens from canada and the seller sent it via fedex with an inflated declared value - worst purchase ever
I purchased a clock kit from a seller in Europe and he did the same put a value of 250 on a bag of parts. I refused the package and then filed a chargeback. He wasn't happy. I told him if he had been fair and put a declared value on what the sum of the parts would have been it would have sailed through and he would have had a competed sale. But instead he got his parts back had to pay the shipping and got a bad review in the process.
My question is why you tortured yourself with that de solder wick, even a manual solder sucker would have made life way easier, at least at the part you started to complain..excuse me if you feel im wrong in my assessment.
Solder sucker way more work.
H A T E it when that happens - I hope the owner throws cash at you so you can justify your time to (attempt to) fix it completely.
May require a "real dog" electronic repair GoFundMe and gather big bucks to rescue that sick puppy.
Well this one is is become a challenge and this is not the last that you'll see of this receiver, I can assure you that that there will be more work done on this and there will be probably more video I'm just done on it working for it right now as I have other stuff piling up. So this will get revisited again and hopefully we'll have a better outcome as I do some more troubleshooting and testing. I've got it kind of narrowed down I know what it's not, I know the amplifier is working for all the channels because I can inject the signal and I can get clean output at the speaker relay with no DC voltage so I know that that section is working. I know that I've got good levels at the volume control. But I have low levels at the preamp out and the speakers relays are stuck in protect mode. That's where I stopped working on it and have to set it aside to get to other things. So when it gets slow if that ever happens and I'm looking for a challenge this one will be back up on the bench. I've been in contact with the fellow that owns it and he's okay with me taking my time and is prepared to put some money into this one to get it back running so the end game is to get it running but I don't have a time frame on when that might be hopefully not too long. But I agree this was a nice amp when it's working and it has lots of power that's for sure from the main speakers the center and rear channeler a lot lower power as they're running off of a 35 volt as opposed to 60 volt per rail power supply. What I do need to investigate is what's going on in that shielded board up front like that's where the Dolby circuits are. What are they challenges with this is the service manual is an absolute disaster. It's probably one of the worst laid out PDF files I've seen with everything jumping from one page to the next and really what needs to be done is print the schematic out on paper and join all the pieces together because as it sits trying to decipher what goes where off the computer screen is impossible. Again for another day when I get caught up on some of the other stuff that I've got going on here it will be back up on the bench. I've invested a bunch of time on it now and I really would like to get this one going. Challenge accepted as they say.
@@12voltvids EXACTLY !
Those anchors run very hot ALL THE TIME
Horrible design
+++++
why are people so afraid of the border tax people?? it's an odd cognitive dissonance - it's a broken unit that one could value at $5 - end of problem.. why do they value it like it was new in box sold in a electronics super store??
sentimental value is priceless at least in my eyes
Sentimental or not i just hate it when people put a high dollar value of broken electronics because i hate the government collecting sales tax on something that is not a sale. Items with a declared value less than 20 there is no tax. Items exported for repair also have no tax. it's all in the paperwork. Insured value and declared value are different but if you put a declared value of 20 and an insured value of 1000 unfortunately that raises eyebrows too. I think this is only the 3 or 4th time in the past 5 or 6 years that taxes were assessed. One time i tried to make a claim for tax refund after exporting but it was as denied as i couldn't provide proof that I had charged sales tax on the repair. The only time this was ever suscessful was after someone stuffed me by crying to PayPal, whom gave them a refund and i was out over 170 in tax i had paid for an unrepairable camera. I drove to the border filled out paperwork for export took it across the line and stuck it in the first garbage can i could find and then got my refund. They stamped the paper work at the border as I was crossing into the USA. Of course it was easy to drop a handycam into the trash bin at a gas station. Something big would be more difficult to dispose of.
@@castoferrer1609 that makes no sense.. I wasn't talking about that. I was talking about people being afraid of the duty tax rapers. Ridiculous.
@@12voltvids exactly - or things taxed constantly after the initial sale where it was first taxed fully - when something is sold used by 'some guy' not with a brick and mortar store.. no tax should ever be applied.. like a garage sale or flea market. They are slowly creating a tax fence online to apply taxes for goods sold online (after being taxed by the platform you sell on and then your payment processor) regardless of used or new status - it's filthy.
PayPal and patreon is now collecting us income tax if they determine that you are being paid for a service. The cut off is 500 a year. Make more than that and they start withholding tax. UA-cam takes 30% and sends it to IRS
I really like your vids but can’t enjoy them like before. I bugs me you made that fake video about finding the money in the VCR. April fools or not, that was poor taste.
What I think is in poor taste is that he destroyed the bottom of that Yamaha cuz he was too lazy to pull circuit board out properly the quality of his workmanship on people's property is disgusting and he's getting worse over the years
@@izzyyanuzzi954 Maybe it's time to stop watching You Tube videos and focus on something positive instead of complaining here.
That was not a fake video I actually did find money in a piece of equipment. It wasn't that piece of equipment because the piece of equipment that I found it in was easily identifiable. I won't say what it was but I did find it inside. The VCR that it was put in was one of mine that I had worked on also about 8 years prior. This was done so that anyone coming out of the woodwork trying to claim that it was theirs, I could pull a video that was shot 8 years ago and show it to them and tell them to f--k off. Do you really think I'm not stupid that when I found the cash in the machine that I would show it on the internet? Of course not and I won't even tell you when I got the equipment or what it was in. But think about it for a minute the cash was an old issue, all sequential bills. It was found in a piece of equipment that I acquired and I'm not going to say anymore as to where I acquired it. it could have been given to me, I could have bought it at the thrift shop. I'm not even going to say whether I got it. The day I made the video or a month either because I don't want to give away any information that someone may use to try to make claim. The piece of equipment it was found in was reviewed on my channel again I'm not saying anymore because someone will try to come out of the woodwork and claim it was theirs. But I can assure you it was not in April fool's joke it just so happened that I published the video a day early. And the timing of it was also pre-planned. anyone that knows anything about Canadian currency knows that that series of bills has not been seen for at least 20 years. The only thing I will confirm is it was not a piece of equipment that I was repairing for a customer. That would be easy for someone to identify. I do have video of the equipment that it was in when I opened it that obviously I'm not showing.
I cut the bottom of the Yamaha because the owner of it directed me to do it. It belongs to the son of a man that I did lots of work for, that ran a local business and I did all of his film to video transfers for him back in the 90s. I've known this guy pretty much this entire life because I used to do work for his dad. It's an old beat up stereo that he uses on his patio and I wasn't charging him for it at least not for this one he paid me a little bit to disconnect the center channel which he didn't need. I told him I could pull the board but I'd have to charge him for the time or I could fix it quick for free. He chose the free option again because he doesn't care. When he contacted me about it he told me he had a broken stereo that he used on his patio and asked me if I had any that I could sell him. I said sure I can sell you a stereo but let's look at your other one first. He was ready to throw this in the garbage and buy a used one from me. What you might consider legacy equipment most people consider throwaway equipment and they don't want to spend money on it and in this case it was a free repair and he was fine with how it looks because it's outside sitting beside his barbecue on a shelf. He doesn't care what it looks like it's going to look a lot worse as time goes by because it sits outside. So I don't care what your opinions are, I do what my customers ask and if they're okay with me cutting a hole in the bottom to get easy access for repair then I will do that. if they want me to take the board out and fix it properly and are prepared to pay me a hundred bucks or $150 to do it I'm all for making money but people don't want to spend that kind of money on this old crap. This is what you have to understand this is old crap and you might think it's great maybe you overpaid for a piece of this old crap but this is old crap. Where I live everybody's got lots of money, homes here, a tear down will sell for 1.5 million a new home three maybe four million. In my neighborhood everybody has lots of money and they don't fix stuff they throw it out and buy new and if they do fix it they won't spend any money on it because they'd much rather have a nice new one. The guy that owns this one just built a nice big new house on a golf course. He has all brand new equipment in the house this is an old piece they had 20 years ago that now it's just for entertaining out in this patio while he watches the golfers play The back nine right out in his backyard.
@@12voltvids I don't think it matters but they guy said or maybe you should have done that on video because it looks really bad that your name is on a hack job like that thousands of people are going to see and you know a lot of stuff and you can do much better than that man
You have to do a quick video on the bald eagle Dave 👍🦘🇦🇺
I think all my hopes are gone. My Vsx d1s have the same problem. If you wait some time when he is on the speaker relays click and the sound comes on...
I am thinking either a yet undescovered cold joint or a bad cap somewhere that takes its time charging up. I will be back on this one soon to check more stuff. When things slow down a bit.
@@12voltvids As I mentioned in another comment, I'd check all of the LV dc rails. In these amps, they like to build linear regulators out of discrete transistors and zener diodes - often times the transistors or zeners go bad, and the DC rails kind of drift around - this is especially the case if you leave it on for a while, and suddenly it clicks and starts working - the DC rail happened to drift to the proper value, and it came out of protection. I fixed a Technics receiver that had that problem a long time ago. You have the schematic, just look for all of the discretely built linear regulators hanging off the rectified transformer output - they should be labeled with their voltage on the schematic. Check all of them
@@gorak9000 i am fully aware how they build them. The problem us accessing some so they can be measured while the unit us under power. I do have the print, but have to print it and put together as trying to follow across multiple pages on the screen is an absolute joke. When manufactures put our electronic manuals it was bad enough but at least you could scroll around. When they are scanned from a print however you end up with partial pages and they need to be printed and taped together to actually be able to read them.
Few time ago i read something about a capacitor C07 (10000uf 80V) on F-2625. And a C1304/220uf/10V that is partly responsible for the relay time delay. Don't know if this could help
Hi , Check resistor 1317 for Open Or burn , value 3.9k it’s located under pre amp perimeter
Wow very interesting video...you are the master and very professional engineer 👏 😊I have question please on my
VINTAGE SHARP VZ 3510 VERTICAL LINEAR TRACKING RECORD PLAYER when I plug in the power and switch on and select radio or cassette player and there is no sound coming out from the speakers only loud humming / buzzing sound? But if I plug my headphones in the stereo I can hear sound on the headphones radio and cassette player as I was looking at the power supply and found the Bridge rectifier getting hot?and I have cleaned all the switches and pots with contact cleaner
Hosa Caig Deoxit Contact Cleaner and still the same problem humming noise coming from speakers? This is the link for the service manual download elektrotanya.com/sharp_vz-3500h_vz3500hb_vz3500e_sm.pdf/download.html
Please can please kindly help me on this issue 🙏 🙂 waiting for your kind reply Thankyou 🙏