When those type of Transistors and regulators are mounted like that on heat sinks, a plumbers bend in the leads should be made so the heating and cooling of the component has a bend so the lead don't pull out from the package or the board. ( an old advice from the Motorola engineers )
Many amateurs are watching your excellent work, and also learning lots! I am an amateur too, and have been 'playing' with Hi Fi Amps for years, with about a 50% success rate. There is nothing more frustrating than having to throw away a nice piece of equipment, because we cannot 'phone a mate' who fully understands such stuff. Please let me ask respectfully, if you considered that the Voltage Regs were supplying /feeding Electrolytic Caps. I have had similar problems where it has been a 'leaky' Electrolytic, and this has caused a rise in the output current of the voltage regulator, and hence, the regulator has heated beyond normal operating temp. I am no expert, but this can cause heat stress and failure on soldered joints, and I have seen this first hand. This is more likely to happen when you pump up the volume. When I examine soldered joints, I use a powerful magnifying glass, and often see the small 'rings' around the soldered joints. As you pointed out, often - these are cracks and high resistance joints. I will follow your lead and resolder these from now on......... I would still consider replacement of electrolytic caps whilst I was inside the equipment, more particularly, those caps being fed by the Voltage Regulators. If any Caps are leaky, this too may increase turn-on time, until they fully charge. Thanks for making an excellent video, your close-up work is the best. Greetings from Australia.
At two years old, it isn't good to see a failure like this one. I didn't realize that the VSX 530 was so young! I have become very disillusioned with today's Hi Fi stuff, and it seems crazy to pay a fortune for something with a good brand-name that has been uncaringly assembled with the cheapest-possible components. I am just repairing a 1980's Sansui Amplifier, replacement of the integrated Amp Unit. It will also be re-capped, but I feel that there is an air of futility around this hobby of mine. Many faults with most mains-operated stuff, is usually in the Power Supply, and step-down. My current project, (which has been very successful) was to utilise a Pioneer Car Radio (4 - spkr system) as a main Hi-Fi Unit in my house. The beauty about this, is that it all runs very well, on solar power and a 150Ah Battery! I am just connecting-in a Soundstream USB 8A Sub-Woofer, and the whole system provides the purest of sound - completely devoid of Mains Hum / mains ripple. At a great listening volume, this whole system draws under 2A, The only downside, is that there are not enough inputs - for connection to a TV and stuff. Car Radios (today) are very hardy, and don't seem to suffer from the failures of expensive mains-powered Units. In driving the Pioneer Car Radio (as a home Hi-Fi), I placed Aluminium Cladding around the whole radio in a nice embossed (decorative) Aluminium Sheet, on the 3 sides, and this acts as a huge heat-sink, and it is secured to the radio heatsink itself (at the rear of the radio) by drilled/tapped holes very close to the MOSFET drivers. The purest of sound through JAMO speakers, reliability, devoid of mains hum, no 'mains spikes' to damage sensitive electronics. With the advent of cheap Solar Panels, Lithium Ion Battery Packs, this could be the future of all HI Fi equipment - who knows? It was great to get a reply back from you, and with more than 30 years at fixing electronics, I thoroughly enjoy the way that you come over in your Teaching Vids. I am over seventy, and I never expected a reply from you, but I was thrilled to receive one. Never too old to learn. Greetings from Sydney Australia.
@@12voltvids What A Scumbag that Guy from Craigslist knew that The Machine was malfunctioning and yet He still let Someone buy it from Him and did absolutely nothing to fix The Machine before selling it
Those 7812/7912 are notorious for failing, they provide the rails for the differential amp on the amp board. Intermittent or no +12V triggers protection to stop the output relays kicking in.
Actually it is not. My onkyo also takes quite awhile to produce sound. Firs the power has to turn on, then the digital circuits have to initialize, and stabilize, then the audio circuits come on, and the protection circuit checks to see that there is no DC voltage present on the speaker terminals before turning on the audio. A straight 2 channel receiver with no DSP circuits might come on quicker, but these multi channel boxes with 4K and HDMI tend to take a considerable amount of time.
@@12voltvids Yes, and some receivers will not respond to commands to change inputs during this time either. My current Denon isn't like that, but I had to adjust the delays on my harmony remote for past ones.
They are basically like a computer nowadays with DSP's and digital circuits. The microprocessor has to "boot up" and run a sequence of steps and go through a self-test.
YOU ARE AWESOME. I bought an "as is" PIONEER AV VSX 530 at the second hand store for $14.00, and now it works perfect. LOL. $14.00. I've been running my sub woofer amp out of my headphone jack of my old receiver , with a cross-over. Now ,thanks to you, I finally have a high power receiver with a real pre amp sub out. Yes, I did subscribe. I hope karma rewards you well for your extreme generosity of your knowledge.
I love Pioneer its my favourite brand, especially like their small micro hifi units, with big clear VFD displays, without Pioneer i dont think we would have had Karaoke
Enjoy your presentation. As a matter of safety early on I was always taught to remove jewelry i.e rings and watches. Shorted a screwdriver in half making an adjustment late one night on the flight line. Was very happy to have jewelry removed. Just a thought.
Notice I don't wear a ring for that reason. If you ever see me working around hazardous voltages my watch is usually off or that hand is behind my back.
This is probably why I never bought one of these Pioneer "all in ones", as they always have issues. I prefer separate components outright. All of my amplifier separates are still working well, even though some of them are as old as myself !
This is the first that I have heard about a "speaker relay". From your video I take it that the purpose of the speaker relay is to delay power to the speakers (and maybe to the amplifiers) until some period of time after the voltages on the +12VDC and -12VDC power rails stabilize. Thank you for bringing this to my attention. So why didn't you get the owner to spring for some heatsinks for those three DC voltage regulators?
Thx man You ve saved my vsx 830. In my case sound was coming back after touching those stabilizers only if just switching on off speakers did nothing. I just solder all connections as You did and all is running perfect. I'm my case I think delivery company must have treat this amplituner badly during transport and smthg must have loose. Great video, thx 1 more time
Led free solder is deliberate now . Its a good job I got a role of leaded stuff now . I fixing 2 laptops I have here , right in to the motherboard . Yep stripy strip is the hardest part , " its worth it "
One thing I do like about modern equipment is it looks much sleeker. I know to most it doesn’t mean much but to me it does. Now I wouldn’t get the cheapest receiver this day in age.
I use a Pioneer SC-LX73 7.1 Channel amp when I got it some channels did not work and was turning off but I think it might have been a bad speaker screw as its going great now.
Yay. It lives again. Pioneer is getting Abit more serves friendly with the removable power amp moduels an separate power supply moduels. Normly these pioneer resevers are built with desent quality. it may not be the quality of the pass but it's better then a lot of other resevers from today.
Have you thought about using a Dummy Load to check amplifiers? You can crank them to full while testing and not upset the neighbours! And the amp will heat up quicker! Well spotted on this one, good job as always fella!
@@12voltvids I put mine on a recycled heat sink, enough to handle 1600 Watts with a switch for selecting 8, 4 and 2 ohms. But it's better for PA amplifiers.
the title of this made me laugh way to hard than it should be. my parents leave there 40 year old stuff outside in the garage where its changes temps from -40 to like 30C for past 20 years and its drafty and open to the elements where it could corrode or fail.. but yet the systems still work just fine even during winter in those cold temps. kinda amazing how some units just dont care then some just flakey in general.
i have a vsa d802s that i bought new in 1993, i used it most days for 16 years, i stored it away around 10 years ago and used a kenwood music amp instead, its about the same age as the pioneer, i got the pioneer out recently switched it on all lights up functions normally and gives sound from sources, well you cant beat that, better than this modern crap you get nowadays, bye the way the kenwood is still good aswell.
Those regulators can get real warm. Simple and cheap solution to fit them on the frame but I would put some thermal paste under them. Well this amp is the perfect example that these newer amplifier are made for short time use and for cheap. So sad that even Pioneer has fallen. 140Wx5? Just look at the size of the transformer and the heat sink, If you've seen a real amplifier with that power rating you will notice that this is actually garbage. :(
I'm having a similar problem with a vsx523 (likely a lower end model or slightly older). If I change HDMI outputs the audio will cut out and won't work again until I shut the unit off and leave it sit fof 20-30 minutes. Also sometimes after a few hours of use, I will hear static on the speakers for a second and then they go silent. I wonder if I have the same issue.
Got that “soldercam” in full effect! Nice work, Speedy! You are a true “Pioneer” of the audio industry. I’d take that title any day as opposed to: A real “Pyle” of the audio industry. (Nice work tho, for real)
I have the VSX-522 and this seems like it might be my issue, as of this morning none of the hdmi inputs will produce any sound, if I switch to am fm radio I receive sound from the speakers. Checking the solder joints tonight
That's not always the case with the cold soldering, rather, elec- trolytic capacitors dry and lose their voltage until they are charged.......... Best regards from frankfurt Germ.
Came across a Linn all in one (about $1300 in 2005); capacitor problems, because cooling was not well (closed cabinet). So: capacitors only lasted for about 15 years. Later models had a fan!
In this case, it was pretty obvious what the problem was. Before resoldering no sound unless I turned the speakers off then on. After resoldering they come on as they should. I am thinking a slight voltage drop because of connection on regulator caused an op amp to have a slight dc offset that was amplifier and was keeping the protection circuit from turning on.
good work! i have this machine and its working well BUT the only problem is i have no sound from AM/FM section ,not even static noise. searching and storing stations well but no audio at all, i have cleaned and done the solder but no change. Kindly help
I Have a Pioneer VSX-524 that turns on with relay clicks but no audio . Could that be the hdmi board causing this problem, I checked all the audio outputs and they are good. The inside looks just like the VSX530 you have here. thanks ron
The symptom. Heat related, and by experience that regulators are a major cause of trouble, plus they were easy to get to. Start with the simple things right.
When your soldering the last thing to leave The Joint should be the solder itself just a split second after you remove the iron. Give it a try you will get a cleaner joint
@12voltvids not saying you're soldering is bad just saying give it a try . It will eliminate that little curly cue and also provide a cooling profile. I am also an old timer.. by the way I agree that the lack of an access grate on amps makes them no fun to work on. Good video.
I have a similar Pioneer device (VSX-321) and it doesn't have sound on central and sw channel (speakers are fine, tested). I left it in a box for 3 years and it was working fine at that point. What do you think the problem could be?
Wouldn't it have been easier and cheapaer to strap those regulators to a heatsink rather than add a separate pcb and all those soldered connections? Do they get so hot that they need a beefy radiator which would increase the price?
Heatsinks cost money. The chassis is already there one way or another, so it becomes a free heat sink. Actually, getting that particular circuit board up and out for inspection and repair isn't particularly difficult. If you have to get the main amplifier and power supply board up, however, that's a lot more work and it's a big floppy mess when you remove it because of the weight of the heatsink and the flexing of the board. This particular unit has a fair amount of empty space inside of it, but many more expensive and more sophisticated and heavier units have every available inch of space filled with a circuit board of some kind, all linked together with a mix of Fasteners and angle brackets and right angle plug-in PCB connectors and flying wire harnesses and all kinds of shit. Good luck attempting to do a simple repair on any of those units. Nobody, and I mean nobody puts removable bottoms on equipment anymore. That method of Construction and design ought to be illegal.
so far i did it, i have audio in the pure audio mode bot the other 5 speakers has no audio, what do I do brother, I don't want to make it as parts only
Have you ever worked on a Pioneer VSX 21 TXH with no sound? My does the same every once in awhile. I leave it alone for months then the sound goes back on. And it always work for the Repair Man.
This video is very helpful. I have the same model . But I'm getting some noise after switching it on for 5 minutes. Any helpful advice would be appreciated.
I have this receiver as well as jbl speaker 5.1. Subwoofer powered on and white light out of standby. All speakers work but subwoofer producing no bass/sound. I touch other side of cable while plugged in sub and it produces bass/sound. I do a sound test and all speakers but sub not working. Not sure if there is a setting issue where the sub won't work without properly configured on av receiver.
Hi love ur work awesome diagnosis of problem. Iv got a Pioneer vsx-824 and geting really distorted sound on LEFT chanel only (checked different speakers,spkr wire etc) only troubleshooting I found is if have I have LEFT - connected and RGHT + it dosnt distort. What could it be any help would be gr8 Thanks
Come over and install a new furnace for me in the shop. That's how it sounds, can't do much about it. It is winter here and I am not working in a shop that is freezing.
12voltvids I’d rather bring some hot chicks there :) but, I’ll get used with the fan beat because I really do appreciate your work and I have learned a lot of things watching your videos being subscribed to your channel for more than 3 years. So keep going on and best wishes from Romania!
Do you think it could have a stepstart with a leaky cap or does it have a stepstart. Maybe not with that small a transformer? Thanks for the video. Great!
140 into 5 from that tiny transformer? Maybe at 20% THD and near meltdown. My 60W/ch stereo integrated amp from the mid 90s has a far larger transformer and heatsinks, and it's "just" an Onkyo.
Never trust spec sheets. In lab measurements another brand 7 channel AVR specked at 145 w a channel it does ~120w for stereo, ~74w for 5 speakers and ~47w for 7 speakers. Don't actually remember the exact watts , but i can find you the link with the test measurements, and a watts + THD graph aswell.
specs sheets lie. there is no more integrity in manufacturing. more than likely that hunk of junk will be unrepeatable soon anyway. They only give you a 1 year warranty on their junk
Mine did not produce any sound.. It's a VSX-822 series. It looks much more complicated than the designs of the one on the video. As i wasn't a technician or engineer of pcb repairs, i had zero knowledge. I had to do a snapshot of the before looks of the top,bottom,left , right pictures of my receivers before dismantling. I had placed everything on a word file. Guess i'll have to span the restoration job across few months... I had only a multimeter that's 10Amp fused. A solder and heatgun is the only repairing tool i had. No oscillators , no dc power testers and no resistors tester kits... Hopefully nothing explodes..
I have and old Pioneer vsx-516-k with no sound output. I did the reset to set it back to factory specs and still no sound output. When i turn it on it clicks and then in a couple of seconds i hear another click. Anyone have any idea what it might be? Thank you
Great video by display wont come on But it powers on what can it be. i did smell something when i had it working full blast i had to change the plug fuse and do a reset for it to power on by Pressing the power button and the suround at the some time and now i here it kick in powering on!
You may want to put thermal compound on those regulators to improve their heat dissipation. It may prevent the problem from re-occurring in the future.
Bah, not necessary. They are plastic tab, so they won't be getting that hot. Had they been in a high power circuit that generated much heat they would have used metal tab regulators.
@@12voltvids , I have seen plenty of power supply circuits that used plastic tab regulators right at or above the top of their ratings so that they ran blistering hot. Just as likely that the manufacturer use plastic tab devices so they wouldn't require the extra step of a silicone or mica insulator and a stepped plastic isolating washer and maybe some heat sink grease. Personally, I would have added the grease.
@@danmackintosh6325 There are no restrictions on what shops use for repairs. Not here anyway. They might have banned lead free for manufactures but it is readily available for repairs. Now for plumbing you are in a different league. Plumbers have to use lead free for all potable water joints due to lead leaching into water that gets consumed. A few connections made with lead free solder is not going to have any impact on the environment when the unit is disposed of.
Hi, very nice work. Congratulations for your videos. Your methodology for thinking about what is going on with the unit depending on the failure show a lot of experience with electronics and huge background knowledge!! I do have a similar AVR to this Pioneer. Mines is a Denon AVR 1611, back from 2010. I bought it second hand. The unit showed a very strange kind of failure since the very beginning form my purchase. The unit works fine as long you keep it in standby mode. In that situation you turn the unit on and everything works fine. BUT...is you disconnect the unit from mains, and then you power it on again, the unit starts working with very flat sound. I realized that the problem was that the unit does not memorize the previous equalization setting. So I put it working again by turning some parameter off and on again. For example I use to do this with Dinamic EQ. Did you ever see a failure like this? Any thoughts or recommendations? Thank you!!
Hii sir my pioneer receiver vsx 324 no sub woofer sound starting time 2-4 minutes working then stop I was check transistor 7812 very heating problem please help me sir
@ 12voltvids I have a VSX 817 Pioneer amp. The on screen display is not working. What could be the issue ? I have tried everything, even resetting the system.
Hi I have a Sony receiver str-DH550 no sound ,I checked all the transistors and channels it looks like they are fine but no sound out put at all!!can u guide me what is wrong?
Hello I have a little older Pioneer vsx 1121k and the left and right surround channels crackle, static, cut out intermittently . Do you think the voltage regulates fix might help? If you have any thoughts on it would be appreciated. Thank you.
I have a VSX421 which puts out loud static/digital type of noise when in surround mode, even with nothing connected to its inputs at all. I can hear this also through the headphones jack... would appreciate any advice...
I know this is off topic but I have a question. Why do you call some equipment Garbage? I had a Pioneer SA 9100 amp years ago and it sounded great and then eventually took the top off to clean the pots and switches and looked very sturdy and well built.
Because some equipment is absolute garbage. When you have been servicing for 35 years you get to see all kinds of designs and equipment. Some is built better than others and some has repeated faults that affects many units. Those are the garbage units but also money makers because so many of them had problems because they were "garbage" when they left the factory. Ask any servicer and we all have those same opinions of certain models. Unfortunately many of the modern units are just that. Not designed to be repaired
ESD is over rated, seriously. Components are really only sensitive when they are bare componets. Once in a circuit the load of all the other parts, capacitors, resistors ect will drain away any build up that you could possible build up in your body. Touching the metal cabinet will drain that away too.
My soldering skills are great. You sound like the one with the problem. So since you are not watching any more videos is it ok if i ban you from commenting?
It's the "it'll be collectible one day" mentality I think, like how it's nice to see intact stickers/labels on vintage gear but sadly the quality isn't there now for the kit to be worth collecting.
I watched one the other day I think, you mentioned about the "it's a Sony" stickers haha... Really though it's a nice thing to have if something does happen to become collectible but the Sony example with the sticker on the screen is going a bit far!
Folks also drive around with the factory price and options sticker on the inside window of their brand new car, and leave it on display there for months. I can't explain it either.
When i turn on i dont have sound. Sound came different, after 1-2-3min. If i change input again no sound for any minuts. Regulators are good. Any caps on dsp board may be?
Hi my name is Charlie I'm watching your video i have pioneer no sound but when turning volume knob hearing cracking noises from all speakers any idea!!
Where do you get your internal parts at? I hate to ask but Unless you have you a licensed shop, you can't get components unless they are boards and you have to can things like processors.
Licensed shop? Your kidding right. I haven't been at a licensed shop for 15 years, and I have no problem getting parts. There are local retail stores still around, not as many as there used to be, but there are still a few, 3 here where I am, and then there is the internet. Digikey, Mouser just to name a few and of course Ebay. Apple wont sell you specific parts, nor will many of the manufactures, but you can always get them used from places like shopjimmy.
@@12voltvids Well, I called Shopjimmy and according to the lady they only sell the used or refurbed Circuit boards, which they dont' have the boards for this set I'm trying to save. I guess Philips 32PFL5332D/ 37's are just to old. I see some mother boards on ebay. They look the same but due to maybe mods on the boards, I guess it changes the part number of the board. I guess I'll just get the board to get the chip I need off of it. This processor chip is just to hot and the set shuts off. I'll fix it or it'll go to the landfil . It was free anyway. Just thought I'd get education from it. Boy did I ever. I learned that Philips Consumer Products in Marietta, Ga and in Tennessee are shut down. I could try Digikey again. I'll dig around some more for other shops. We have Fry's but I don't give them much hope. Sorry to have bothered you. I know you are a very busy person. Thanks for taking time to contacted me back. I'm still watching all of your videos, some twice if necessary. Thanks.
I have the pioneer vsx 1015 made in 2004 and it’s got much more guts inside than this newer version it weighs about 15 kg I can say this is not built like the older ones
Delay circuit is to allow all the other circuits like DSP and op amps to stabilize. As op amps have both a +12 and -12 supply, they need to be stable otherwise there will be a dc voltage at the amplifier input which would give a potentially speaker damaging large dc voltage at the speakers. So there is a timed delay, and then the speaker outputs are tested for any DC ofset, and if it is 0 the relay is energized to connect the speakers to the amplifier output.
#12voltvids Hi i am from India and i have a national g21 vcr it is not taking CTL puls vcr is like new nothing has worn out. ACTL head is fine but not taking ctl puls what to do please reply
@@12voltvids I do like 63/37, but like you, several of my former coworkers prefer 60/40. 60/40 gives you just a little more slack before it solidifies. Me? I want the solder to solidify as quickly as possible.
@@johnc8910 Solder solidify too quick quite often leads to poor joints. This is the problem with lead free. There are other solders that are closer to 50/50 that melt at much lower temperatures and stay relatively soft.
@@ryantoomey611 Thank heavens they don't. Switching supplies seem to be the most common failure in modern electronics. Besides, it would wash out the AM reception.
So not garbage then. As if there weren't examples of early failure in true Japanese products of the 1980s. When these things sell for as little as $200 it really isn't surprising that the build quality takes a dump.
@@12voltvids Not really, it's the consumer to blame, very few folks would pay $1000 for something like this these days, which would be necessary to match old-world quality. It's not the manufacturers' fault
@@jasejj Sure it is. If consumers paid what they paid back in the 80's then we would still have half decent equipment. If consumers resisted the urge to buy cheap crap, and let it sit and rot on store shelves the manufactures of better, more expensive equipment would continue to manufacture it. But consumers rushed to the cheapest, and that is what sold. The more expensive stuff didn't move, and manufactures took the cue and stopped making the better stuff focusing on the cheap crap that people want. Look at the auto industry. There is a reason Ford and GM are moving away from sedans and into gas guzzing trucks. That is what sells, big ass trucks, and there is more profit in trucks. They require fewer safety features and actually cost less to make than a sedan. The consumer gets what they want, and then complains about the quality. Now if that isn't hypo-critic I don't know what is.
I have a 1979 Yamaha CS-80 synthesizer with over 45 circuit boards stuffed to the gills and built to the same Japanese consumer equipment standards of the 80's. Not one single cold or cracked solder connection to be found......probably because it has real leaded solder. New stuff has garbage lead free solder. Disaster.
I’m impressed with your skills. You are really good at diagnosing the problem and going in for the repairs efficiently. Right in for the kill.
Love the close up soldering camera angle. Very clear. Great job quickly diagnosing the issue.
When those type of Transistors and regulators are mounted like that on heat sinks, a plumbers bend in the leads should be made so the heating and cooling of the component has a bend so the lead don't pull out from the package or the board. ( an old advice from the Motorola engineers )
Many amateurs are watching your excellent work, and also learning lots! I am an amateur too, and have been 'playing' with Hi Fi Amps for years, with about a 50% success rate. There is nothing more frustrating than having to throw away a nice piece of equipment, because we cannot 'phone a mate' who fully understands such stuff. Please let me ask respectfully, if you considered that the Voltage Regs were supplying /feeding Electrolytic Caps. I have had similar problems where it has been a 'leaky' Electrolytic, and this has caused a rise in the output current of the voltage regulator, and hence, the regulator has heated beyond normal operating temp. I am no expert, but this can cause heat stress and failure on soldered joints, and I have seen this first hand. This is more likely to happen when you pump up the volume. When I examine soldered joints, I use a powerful magnifying glass, and often see the small 'rings' around the soldered joints. As you pointed out, often - these are cracks and high resistance joints. I will follow your lead and resolder these from now on......... I would still consider replacement of electrolytic caps whilst I was inside the equipment, more particularly, those caps being fed by the Voltage Regulators. If any Caps are leaky, this too may increase turn-on time, until they fully charge. Thanks for making an excellent video, your close-up work is the best. Greetings from Australia.
This unit is only a couple of years old so there should not be any bad caps in it yet. If it was 20 years old perhaps but this is what 3.
At two years old, it isn't good to see a failure like this one. I didn't realize that the VSX 530 was so young! I have become very disillusioned with today's Hi Fi stuff, and it seems crazy to pay a fortune for something with a good brand-name that has been uncaringly assembled with the cheapest-possible components. I am just repairing a 1980's Sansui Amplifier, replacement of the integrated Amp Unit. It will also be re-capped, but I feel that there is an air of futility around this hobby of mine. Many faults with most mains-operated stuff, is usually in the Power Supply, and step-down. My current project, (which has been very successful) was to utilise a Pioneer Car Radio (4 - spkr system) as a main Hi-Fi Unit in my house. The beauty about this, is that it all runs very well, on solar power and a 150Ah Battery! I am just connecting-in a Soundstream USB 8A Sub-Woofer, and the whole system provides the purest of sound - completely devoid of Mains Hum / mains ripple. At a great listening volume, this whole system draws under 2A, The only downside, is that there are not enough inputs - for connection to a TV and stuff. Car Radios (today) are very hardy, and don't seem to suffer from the failures of expensive mains-powered Units. In driving the Pioneer Car Radio (as a home Hi-Fi), I placed Aluminium Cladding around the whole radio in a nice embossed (decorative) Aluminium Sheet, on the 3 sides, and this acts as a huge heat-sink, and it is secured to the radio heatsink itself (at the rear of the radio) by drilled/tapped holes very close to the MOSFET drivers. The purest of sound through JAMO speakers, reliability, devoid of mains hum, no 'mains spikes' to damage sensitive electronics. With the advent of cheap Solar Panels, Lithium Ion Battery Packs, this could be the future of all HI Fi equipment - who knows? It was great to get a reply back from you, and with more than 30 years at fixing electronics, I thoroughly enjoy the way that you come over in your Teaching Vids. I am over seventy, and I never expected a reply from you, but I was thrilled to receive one. Never too old to learn. Greetings from Sydney Australia.
@@12voltvids What A Scumbag that Guy from Craigslist knew that The Machine was malfunctioning and yet He still let Someone buy it from Him and did absolutely nothing to fix The Machine before selling it
@@jackgarrison8497 yup most stuff is broken on Craigslist and eBay.
@@12voltvids Which sucks
I got recently a pioneer sx50 receiver that shuts down after a while, I will try checking the cold solder joints, thanks for the tips!
Those 7812/7912 are notorious for failing, they provide the rails for the differential amp on the amp board. Intermittent or no +12V triggers protection to stop the output relays kicking in.
Very speedy repair :-D
11 seconds delay, that's quite a long time.
i would normally expect 3-4 seconds.
I have a newer harmon kardon and it takes a good 10 seconds to initialize and get sound when it is turned on.
Actually it is not. My onkyo also takes quite awhile to produce sound.
Firs the power has to turn on, then the digital circuits have to initialize, and stabilize,
then the audio circuits come on, and the protection circuit checks to see that there is no DC voltage present on the speaker terminals before turning on the audio.
A straight 2 channel receiver with no DSP circuits might come on quicker, but these multi channel boxes with 4K and HDMI tend to take a considerable amount of time.
I had no idea it took so long for these newer receivers to power up. This is really good information to know.@@12voltvids
@@12voltvids Yes, and some receivers will not respond to commands to change inputs during this time either. My current Denon isn't like that, but I had to adjust the delays on my harmony remote for past ones.
They are basically like a computer nowadays with DSP's and digital circuits. The microprocessor has to "boot up" and run a sequence of steps and go through a self-test.
YOU ARE AWESOME. I bought an "as is" PIONEER AV VSX 530 at the second hand store for $14.00, and now it works perfect. LOL. $14.00. I've been running my sub woofer amp out of my headphone jack of my old receiver , with a cross-over.
Now ,thanks to you, I finally have a high power receiver with a real pre amp sub out.
Yes, I did subscribe. I hope karma rewards you well for your extreme generosity of your knowledge.
No way! So yours was fixed the same way?
@@bgnPrinceton YUP. I fix so much stuff with youtube. But this was easy.
He made me understand transistors FINALLY!!
I love Pioneer its my favourite brand, especially like their small micro hifi units, with big clear VFD displays, without Pioneer i dont think we would have had Karaoke
Enjoy your presentation. As a matter of safety early on I was always taught to remove jewelry i.e rings and watches. Shorted a screwdriver in half making an adjustment late one night on the flight line. Was very happy to have jewelry removed. Just a thought.
Notice I don't wear a ring for that reason. If you ever see me working around hazardous voltages my watch is usually off or that hand is behind my back.
This is probably why I never bought one of these Pioneer "all in ones", as they always have issues. I prefer separate components outright. All of my amplifier separates are still working well, even though some of them are as old as myself !
This is the first that I have heard about a "speaker relay". From your video I take it that the purpose of the speaker relay is to delay power to the speakers (and maybe to the amplifiers) until some period of time after the voltages on the +12VDC and -12VDC power rails stabilize. Thank you for bringing this to my attention.
So why didn't you get the owner to spring for some heatsinks for those three DC voltage regulators?
Another fine repair..you are the master..enjoy your videos as allways. Cheers 🍺🍺🍺🇨🇦🇨🇦🇨🇦
Thx man You ve saved my vsx 830. In my case sound was coming back after touching those stabilizers only if just switching on off speakers did nothing. I just solder all connections as You did and all is running perfect. I'm my case I think delivery company must have treat this amplituner badly during transport and smthg must have loose. Great video, thx 1 more time
Led free solder is deliberate now .
Its a good job I got a role of leaded stuff now .
I fixing 2 laptops I have here , right in to the motherboard .
Yep stripy strip is the hardest part , " its worth it "
One thing I do like about modern equipment is it looks much sleeker. I know to most it doesn’t mean much but to me it does. Now I wouldn’t get the cheapest receiver this day in age.
I use a Pioneer SC-LX73 7.1 Channel amp when I got it some channels did not work and was turning off but I think it might have been a bad speaker screw as its going great now.
There's NO other way a person can describe this gentleman...im NOT running the others doen but hes simply the BEST!!!
No!! Mend it Mark for that title!
Yay. It lives again. Pioneer is getting Abit more serves friendly with the removable power amp moduels an separate power supply moduels. Normly these pioneer resevers are built with desent quality. it may not be the quality of the pass but it's better then a lot of other resevers from today.
Interesting way to adapt and extend the reg Leads on a seperate board all on their own
That was a Z bend to take up expansion and contraction from heated components leads.
Have you thought about using a Dummy Load to check amplifiers? You can crank them to full while testing and not upset the neighbours! And the amp will heat up quicker! Well spotted on this one, good job as always fella!
Yes I have a couple of 8 ohm 50 watt resistors. They get hot1
@@12voltvids I put mine on a recycled heat sink, enough to handle 1600 Watts with a switch for selecting 8, 4 and 2 ohms. But it's better for PA amplifiers.
the title of this made me laugh way to hard than it should be. my parents leave there 40 year old stuff outside in the garage where its changes temps from -40 to like 30C for past 20 years and its drafty and open to the elements where it could corrode or fail.. but yet the systems still work just fine even during winter in those cold temps. kinda amazing how some units just dont care then some just flakey in general.
i have a vsa d802s that i bought new in 1993, i used it most days for 16 years, i stored it away around 10 years ago and used a kenwood music amp instead,
its about the same age as the pioneer, i got the pioneer out recently switched it on all lights up functions normally and gives sound from sources,
well you cant beat that, better than this modern crap you get nowadays, bye the way the kenwood is still good aswell.
Those regulators can get real warm. Simple and cheap solution to fit them on the frame but I would put some thermal paste under them.
Well this amp is the perfect example that these newer amplifier are made for short time use and for cheap. So sad that even Pioneer has fallen.
140Wx5? Just look at the size of the transformer and the heat sink, If you've seen a real amplifier with that power rating you will notice that this is actually garbage. :(
I'm having a similar problem with a vsx523 (likely a lower end model or slightly older).
If I change HDMI outputs the audio will cut out and won't work again until I shut the unit off and leave it sit fof 20-30 minutes. Also sometimes after a few hours of use, I will hear static on the speakers for a second and then they go silent. I wonder if I have the same issue.
those regulators looked like they'd been a little hot and toasty. gotta love those easier fixes.
Got that “soldercam” in full effect! Nice work, Speedy! You are a true “Pioneer” of the audio industry. I’d take that title any day as opposed to: A real “Pyle” of the audio industry.
(Nice work tho, for real)
If this unit comes back to you it might be the Hdmi board. They are notorious for the hdmi board to have bad solder joint around the dsp chip.
Onkyo had many problems with the HDMI DSP chips. Been there dun that.
I have the VSX-522 and this seems like it might be my issue, as of this morning none of the hdmi inputs will produce any sound, if I switch to am fm radio I receive sound from the speakers. Checking the solder joints tonight
That's not always the case with the cold soldering,
rather, elec- trolytic capacitors dry and lose their voltage until they are charged.......... Best regards from frankfurt Germ.
Not in new equipment, capacitors can last 50 years
Came across a Linn all in one (about $1300 in 2005); capacitor problems, because cooling was not well (closed cabinet).
So: capacitors only lasted for about 15 years. Later models had a fan!
In this case, it was pretty obvious what the problem was. Before resoldering no sound unless I turned the speakers off then on. After resoldering they come on as they should. I am thinking a slight voltage drop because of connection on regulator caused an op amp to have a slight dc offset that was amplifier and was keeping the protection circuit from turning on.
@@Synthematix
At least.
@@adriaanroeleveld5823
Surface mount caps have relatively short life spans.
good work! i have this machine and its working well BUT the only problem is i have no sound from AM/FM section ,not even static noise. searching and storing stations well but no audio at all, i have cleaned and done the solder but no change. Kindly help
I Have a Pioneer VSX-524 that turns on with relay clicks but no audio . Could that be the hdmi board causing this problem, I checked all the audio outputs and they are good. The inside looks just like the VSX530 you have here. thanks ron
I have one of these, but it all works fine / should it ever exhibit similar behavior will try that …
You diagnosed that problem real quick. How did you know right away that the issue was with the voltage regulators?
The symptom. Heat related, and by experience that regulators are a major cause of trouble, plus they were easy to get to. Start with the simple things right.
Love to watch solder melt/flow/wet!
When your soldering the last thing to leave The Joint should be the solder itself just a split second after you remove the iron. Give it a try you will get a cleaner joint
Been soldering for over 50 years. Nothing wrong with my soldering.
@12voltvids not saying you're soldering is bad just saying give it a try . It will eliminate that little curly cue and also provide a cooling profile. I am also an old timer.. by the way I agree that the lack of an access grate on amps makes them no fun to work on. Good video.
I have a similar Pioneer device (VSX-321) and it doesn't have sound on central and sw channel (speakers are fine, tested). I left it in a box for 3 years and it was working fine at that point. What do you think the problem could be?
Wouldn't it have been easier and cheapaer to strap those regulators to a heatsink rather than add a separate pcb and all those soldered connections? Do they get so hot that they need a beefy radiator which would increase the price?
This is supposed to reduce stress
For the receiver or the owner? 😂
Easier? Probably. Cheaper? Probably not. Why add a heatsink when the bottom of the case is perfectly adequate.
Why did they mount the regulators like that instead of having them stand up on the larger board with an L-bracket for a heatsink?
Heatsinks cost money. The chassis is already there one way or another, so it becomes a free heat sink. Actually, getting that particular circuit board up and out for inspection and repair isn't particularly difficult. If you have to get the main amplifier and power supply board up, however, that's a lot more work and it's a big floppy mess when you remove it because of the weight of the heatsink and the flexing of the board. This particular unit has a fair amount of empty space inside of it, but many more expensive and more sophisticated and heavier units have every available inch of space filled with a circuit board of some kind, all linked together with a mix of Fasteners and angle brackets and right angle plug-in PCB connectors and flying wire harnesses and all kinds of shit. Good luck attempting to do a simple repair on any of those units. Nobody, and I mean nobody puts removable bottoms on equipment anymore. That method of Construction and design ought to be illegal.
so far i did it, i have audio in the pure audio mode bot the other 5 speakers has no audio, what do I do brother, I don't want to make it as parts only
Do you ever try using freeze spray or heat gun to find thermal issues?
Yes all the time. Check out this video.
ua-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&video_id=batV1Mm0S9U
Have you ever worked on a Pioneer VSX 21 TXH with no sound? My does the same every once in awhile. I leave it alone for months then the sound goes back on. And it always work for the Repair Man.
This video is very helpful. I have the same model . But I'm getting some noise after switching it on for 5 minutes. Any helpful advice would be appreciated.
A are the cracks.,because of lead free solder ,they also had a dull finish too.lead free solder takes more heat to flow .
Awesome repair on video as always
I have this receiver as well as jbl speaker 5.1. Subwoofer powered on and white light out of standby. All speakers work but subwoofer producing no bass/sound. I touch other side of cable while plugged in sub and it produces bass/sound. I do a sound test and all speakers but sub not working. Not sure if there is a setting issue where the sub won't work without properly configured on av receiver.
i have the front and back speaker channels kicking out right channel on front speakers and left channel on the back speakers can this be fixed
Hi love ur work awesome diagnosis of problem.
Iv got a Pioneer vsx-824 and geting really distorted sound on LEFT chanel only (checked different speakers,spkr wire etc) only troubleshooting I found is if have I have LEFT - connected and RGHT + it dosnt distort.
What could it be any help would be gr8
Thanks
@12voltvids Please, do something about that noisy fan :) It is driving me nuts, though I enjoy watching your vids.
Come over and install a new furnace for me in the shop. That's how it sounds, can't do much about it. It is winter here and I am not working in a shop that is freezing.
12voltvids I’d rather bring some hot chicks there :) but, I’ll get used with the fan beat because I really do appreciate your work and I have learned a lot of things watching your videos being subscribed to your channel for more than 3 years. So keep going on and best wishes from Romania!
It's the TI DSP320 chip (D808K...) most of the time. Reflow or replace it. It's a known issue with these units and those particular symptoms.
Do you think it could have a stepstart with a leaky cap or does it have a stepstart. Maybe not with that small a transformer? Thanks for the video. Great!
140 into 5 from that tiny transformer? Maybe at 20% THD and near meltdown.
My 60W/ch stereo integrated amp from the mid 90s has a far larger transformer and heatsinks, and it's "just" an Onkyo.
That's what's out there today
Never trust spec sheets. In lab measurements another brand 7 channel AVR specked at 145 w a channel it does ~120w for stereo, ~74w for 5 speakers and ~47w for 7 speakers. Don't actually remember the exact watts , but i can find you the link with the test measurements, and a watts + THD graph aswell.
the transformer in my Pioneer SC-LX73 is pretty large and very heavy amp
specs sheets lie. there is no more integrity in manufacturing. more than likely that hunk of junk will be unrepeatable soon anyway. They only give you a 1 year warranty on their junk
Onkyo Yes i have a tx sv 525 R model and it s way better the this modern crap amps.....
THANKS! I have this exact unit with this exact symptom.
Mine did not produce any sound.. It's a VSX-822 series. It looks much more complicated than the designs of the one on the video. As i wasn't a technician or engineer of pcb repairs, i had zero knowledge. I had to do a snapshot of the before looks of the top,bottom,left , right pictures of my receivers before dismantling. I had placed everything on a word file. Guess i'll have to span the restoration job across few months... I had only a multimeter that's 10Amp fused. A solder and heatgun is the only repairing tool i had. No oscillators , no dc power testers and no resistors tester kits... Hopefully nothing explodes..
I have and old Pioneer vsx-516-k with no sound output.
I did the reset to set it back to factory specs and still no sound output.
When i turn it on it clicks and then in a couple of seconds i hear another click.
Anyone have any idea what it might be?
Thank you
Great video by display wont come on But it powers on what can it be. i did smell something when i had it working full blast i had to change the plug fuse and do a reset for it to power on by Pressing the power button and the suround at the some time and now i here it kick in powering on!
You may want to put thermal compound on those regulators to improve their heat dissipation. It may prevent the problem from re-occurring in the future.
Bah, not necessary. They are plastic tab, so they won't be getting that hot. Had they been in a high power circuit that generated much heat they would have used metal tab regulators.
@@12voltvids , I have seen plenty of power supply circuits that used plastic tab regulators right at or above the top of their ratings so that they ran blistering hot. Just as likely that the manufacturer use plastic tab devices so they wouldn't require the extra step of a silicone or mica insulator and a stepped plastic isolating washer and maybe some heat sink grease. Personally, I would have added the grease.
Dave,
Thanks for showing how to fix this Pioneer Receiver. Did you use the old kind of solder for the repair or the new kind?
Thanks, Tom
I would suggest that as this was for a customer he had to use the *cough* lead-free kind ;) ;)
Cough, cough, cough!
No such thing as lead free solder here. 60% tin 40% lead. Only the good stuff.
@@danmackintosh6325
There are no restrictions on what shops use for repairs. Not here anyway.
They might have banned lead free for manufactures but it is readily available for repairs. Now for plumbing you are in a different league. Plumbers have to use lead free for all potable water joints due to lead leaching into water that gets consumed. A few connections made with lead free solder is not going to have any impact on the environment when the unit is disposed of.
@@12voltvids Thanks for the information. Obviously, it mixes well with lead free solder which is good to know.
Hi, very nice work. Congratulations for your videos. Your methodology for thinking about what is going on with the unit depending on the failure show a lot of experience with electronics and huge background knowledge!! I do have a similar AVR to this Pioneer. Mines is a Denon AVR 1611, back from 2010. I bought it second hand. The unit showed a very strange kind of failure since the very beginning form my purchase. The unit works fine as long you keep it in standby mode. In that situation you turn the unit on and everything works fine. BUT...is you disconnect the unit from mains, and then you power it on again, the unit starts working with very flat sound. I realized that the problem was that the unit does not memorize the previous equalization setting. So I put it working again by turning some parameter off and on again. For example I use to do this with Dinamic EQ. Did you ever see a failure like this? Any thoughts or recommendations? Thank you!!
I'm guessing a 'memory' cap is gone. The receiver should 'save' the settings of your speaker switches through a power-cycle.
Hii sir my pioneer receiver vsx 324 no sub woofer sound starting time 2-4 minutes working then stop I was check transistor 7812 very heating problem please help me sir
@
12voltvids I have a VSX 817 Pioneer amp. The on screen display is not working. What could be the issue ? I have tried everything, even resetting the system.
Hi
I have a Sony receiver str-DH550 no sound ,I checked all the transistors and channels it looks like they are fine but no sound out put at all!!can u guide me what is wrong?
im lucky that my old pioneer vsx-521 still works good after all theese years
Hello I have a little older Pioneer vsx 1121k and the left and right surround channels crackle, static, cut out intermittently . Do you think the voltage regulates fix might help? If you have any thoughts on it would be appreciated. Thank you.
Great job 👍
I have a VSX421 which puts out loud static/digital type of noise when in surround mode, even with nothing connected to its inputs at all. I can hear this also through the headphones jack... would appreciate any advice...
I know this is off topic but I have a question. Why do you call some equipment Garbage? I had a Pioneer SA 9100 amp years ago and it sounded great and then eventually took the top off to clean the pots and switches and looked very sturdy and well built.
Because some equipment is absolute garbage. When you have been servicing for 35 years you get to see all kinds of designs and equipment. Some is built better than others and some has repeated faults that affects many units. Those are the garbage units but also money makers because so many of them had problems because they were "garbage" when they left the factory. Ask any servicer and we all have those same opinions of certain models. Unfortunately many of the modern units are just that. Not designed to be repaired
Excellent repair!
is it safe to touch it like you do at 2:52 ? no ESD protection?
ESD is over rated, seriously. Components are really only sensitive when they are bare componets. Once in a circuit the load of all the other parts, capacitors, resistors ect will drain away any build up that you could possible build up in your body. Touching the metal cabinet will drain that away too.
Yeah... Tell it to the ecu's i've broken :))) but i think that May be due to poor design, which is a different discussion.... :(
im never watching one of your videos again your soldering skills put me to shame im so embarrassed. nice job.
My soldering skills are great. You sound like the one with the problem. So since you are not watching any more videos is it ok if i ban you from commenting?
Lol it was a compliment to your skills meaning I can't do that so effortlessly
Thank gawd im a vintage audio collector and user todays stuff is trash. PPJ = PLASTIC PIECE OF JUNK AS WE CALL IT
:) that nice easy soldering fix
I don't understand why people leave those store display stickers on there. Looks ridiculously tacky.
It's the "it'll be collectible one day" mentality I think, like how it's nice to see intact stickers/labels on vintage gear but sadly the quality isn't there now for the kit to be worth collecting.
LOL been saying that for years. Talked about it on some sony videos.
I watched one the other day I think, you mentioned about the "it's a Sony" stickers haha... Really though it's a nice thing to have if something does happen to become collectible but the Sony example with the sticker on the screen is going a bit far!
Folks also drive around with the factory price and options sticker on the inside window of their brand new car, and leave it on display there for months. I can't explain it either.
When i turn on i dont have sound. Sound came different, after 1-2-3min. If i change input again no sound for any minuts. Regulators are good. Any caps on dsp board may be?
Check the relays' solder joints and the relays themselves.
What is your AVR model?
@@tonifatec i checked relays, they are perfect. I think may be nand chip i bad ....
I need you to fix mine, pioneer vsx 1017 has no sound and restarts itself at high volume, what could be the problem? I broke it somehow I believe.
Where are you located? I have a vsx-519 that needs repair.
Hi my name is Charlie I'm watching your video i have pioneer no sound but when turning volume knob hearing cracking noises from all speakers any idea!!
If you hear noise when you turn controls that tells you the amplifier is working and your problem is in the preamp or switching circuit.
worst thing is heat after fix install fan and no more problems with hdmi cooking and will live a long time !
Heat is the problem because of the closed cabinets people put them in, fan or not.
Where do you get your internal parts at? I hate to ask but Unless you have you a licensed shop, you can't get components unless they are boards and you have to can things like processors.
Licensed shop? Your kidding right. I haven't been at a licensed shop for 15 years, and I have no problem getting parts. There are local retail stores still around, not as many as there used to be, but there are still a few, 3 here where I am, and then there is the internet. Digikey, Mouser just to name a few and of course Ebay.
Apple wont sell you specific parts, nor will many of the manufactures, but you can always get them used from places like shopjimmy.
@@12voltvids Well, I called Shopjimmy and according to the lady they only sell the used or refurbed Circuit boards, which they dont' have the boards for this set I'm trying to save. I guess Philips 32PFL5332D/ 37's are just to old. I see some mother boards on ebay. They look the same but due to maybe mods on the boards, I guess it changes the part number of the board. I guess I'll just get the board to get the chip I need off of it. This processor chip is just to hot and the set shuts off. I'll fix it or it'll go to the landfil . It was free anyway. Just thought I'd get education from it. Boy did I ever. I learned that Philips Consumer Products in Marietta, Ga and in Tennessee are shut down. I could try Digikey again. I'll dig around some more for other shops. We have Fry's but I don't give them much hope. Sorry to have bothered you. I know you are a very busy person. Thanks for taking time to contacted me back. I'm still watching all of your videos, some twice if necessary. Thanks.
Can you do a repair on a Nintendo blinking light ?
not a bad idea of those transistors for a small PCB for bias :)
140 watt x 5 yet on the back panel total power is only 415 watts. I remember a time when the math actually added up.
....... I hate that, when a component leg is folded over another trace.
(the island at 7:55).
I have the pioneer vsx 1015 made in 2004 and it’s got much more guts inside than this newer version it weighs about 15 kg I can say this is not built like the older ones
Nice easy fix. Not certain I understand the delay in the circuitry though?
@LD Blake, Thanks for that, never fooled with any type of amps. Now that makes sense.
Delay circuit is to allow all the other circuits like DSP and op amps to stabilize.
As op amps have both a +12 and -12 supply, they need to be stable otherwise there will be a dc voltage at the amplifier input which would give a potentially speaker damaging large dc voltage at the speakers. So there is a timed delay, and then the speaker outputs are tested for any DC ofset, and if it is 0 the relay is energized to connect the speakers to the amplifier output.
@@12voltvids, Thank you for the reply, now that helps me.
So, how do you recognize a professional soldering guy? When he changes soldering iron tips with the iron on without tools and with his bare fingers.
That would be me :)
Some of the newer irons can do that. They heat up quickly, cool down quickly, and the tips just plug in.
#12voltvids Hi i am from India and i have a national g21 vcr it is not taking CTL puls
vcr is like new nothing has worn out. ACTL head is fine but not taking ctl puls what to do please reply
What temp do you solder this sort of stuff at? Are you usng 60/40? Thanks
700'F which is what 370c. Yes 60/40 solder only.
@@12voltvids 63/37 is slightly better, if you can find it.
@@johnc8910
It is readily available. Used it once, didn't like it went back to 60/40
@@12voltvids I do like 63/37, but like you, several of my former coworkers prefer 60/40. 60/40 gives you just a little more slack before it solidifies. Me? I want the solder to solidify as quickly as possible.
@@johnc8910
Solder solidify too quick quite often leads to poor joints. This is the problem with lead free. There are other solders that are closer to 50/50 that melt at much lower temperatures and stay relatively soft.
It looks cheap because it is cheap, sony are the worst for this, today sony audio stuff is freakin awful, pioneer also make some of the best today
You should have replace the 7812 reg , he is the one causing the problem.
My VSX 521 did the same...was not even used much....will not buy another Pioneer...ended up getting a Denon
I wouldn't own either brand. When I look for something new it will probably be a Yamaha.
I see that this device has a power supply and a large transformer.
Surprising they don't use switching power supplies. Linear power supplies are such old technology.
@@ryantoomey611 Thank heavens they don't. Switching supplies seem to be the most common failure in modern electronics. Besides, it would wash out the AM reception.
I found one of these in the trash... DSP chip dead. Ended up smashing it. Junk!
That's the same HDMI board that's in a pyle receiver LOL!
Is it a real Pioneer, or does someone else own the name now?
So not garbage then. As if there weren't examples of early failure in true Japanese products of the 1980s.
When these things sell for as little as $200 it really isn't surprising that the build quality takes a dump.
Sold for a price point.
@@12voltvids Not really, it's the consumer to blame, very few folks would pay $1000 for something like this these days, which would be necessary to match old-world quality. It's not the manufacturers' fault
@@jasejj
Sure it is. If consumers paid what they paid back in the 80's then we would still have half decent equipment. If consumers resisted the urge to buy cheap crap, and let it sit and rot on store shelves the manufactures of better, more expensive equipment would continue to manufacture it.
But consumers rushed to the cheapest, and that is what sold. The more expensive stuff didn't move, and manufactures took the cue and stopped making the better stuff focusing on the cheap crap that people want.
Look at the auto industry. There is a reason Ford and GM are moving away from sedans and into gas guzzing trucks. That is what sells, big ass trucks, and there is more profit in trucks. They require fewer safety features and actually cost less to make than a sedan. The consumer gets what they want, and then complains about the quality. Now if that isn't hypo-critic I don't know what is.
I have a 1979 Yamaha CS-80 synthesizer with over 45 circuit boards stuffed to the gills and built to the same Japanese consumer equipment standards of the 80's. Not one single cold or cracked solder connection to be found......probably because it has real leaded solder. New stuff has garbage lead free solder. Disaster.
@@gavincurtis
2 words, hand built
Another quality receiver made by Inkel Corporation
great job
Give me a 70's Pioneer receiver over this any day.
Tell me about it. I have another one with no sound I am ready to give up on.