I'm glad you liked my governor modification. However the added preload makes the HPP exhaust valve LATER, not sooner! With the bigger carburetor airflow suffers at low RPMs so you want the exhaust smaller for another couple hundred RPMs. By adding additional preload the HPP opens like 600 RPMs later which gives you an additional 4 HP right there in the middle!! Correct - that's 4 HP in the midrange as opposed to loosing 2HP over stock when using the big 38 carburetor.
Thank you for the clarification, Nino! Im trying to figure out how to edit this video to correct when I say it opens earlier. Im not great at video editing. My bike screams now! You are the man!
Been going through the same thing with a completely different engine not a honda that uses a rotax diaphragm type power valve, ended up going with a stiffer spring. I couldn't find any videos came across your channel from your cr80 wanted post on pnw
@@jimmy_dirtbike it's early days the pv still needs some work thinking slightly longer spring, it works off exhaust pressure there's no centrifuge involved so relys solely on the spring. It's counterbalanced so not much vibration at all barely noticeable, my ktm 500 4t is 10x worse put it that way. You should do a 500 video they're always popular that would get your subscriptions up lol
Too bad you missed the part with replacing the bearing inside the governor. These governors have done like 30 years already so the bearing in there is worn and has some play which makes the whole assembly slightly inprecise. If you already open up the governor you could easily replace that bearing as well. Takes like 1 minute more and it gets rid of most of the slack there is. In the end it's all about having a precisely working exhaust system, right?
Most definately! I must have missed that part when we were emailing back and forth regarding that bearing actually. I will go back and read our messages! Otherwise, I most definately would have done that part. Are you referring to the ball bearings in the top? I could just reopen the governor, couldn't I? It runs great right now, minus the FMF fatty and VForce you recommended. Only reason I didn't put either of them on there is because I already had a PC and a rad valve on there before the mod. If I can find someone who will buy either one, I will definatley swap them out. Thank you again for all your help with this! I truly appreciate it, Nino!
Thanks Jimmy. Can you tell how many rpm it start to open?? I just got a cr125 2003 with pwk air striker. Power valve seems to open allmost when i touch the throttle😮
No problem dude! I was told that stock is right around 7500 rpms. The shim would make it open 600-700rpms later. I’ve risen my 97 cr125 a couple times since installing the shim, it turned it into a way better bike. I love the 38 pwk on it now!
Cool. Any experience with replacing the spring? Im trying to figure out why mine is opening so fast. Im hopeless trying to find OEM spring as loose part. Any help would be much appriciated 😄
@@michaelhier3447 if it were me, I’d just get a new governor, they’re cheap. Otherwise, you could just pull the top off the governor like I did in this video and swap a different spring in there. I heard somewhere that the mugen engine cases had the ability to change out governor springs. Not sure where you’d get another spring other than just getting another governor off eBay. Good luck!
Hello Jimmy can you tell me the thickness of the ring that you made to replace the stock ring? The thing is that i have a 2001 cr 125 with a 36 kehin carburettor...
I did not make that, I had it made by a dude in England. However, it s a shim that is 3mm thick. Is that carb a PJ carb? I do not think you need to do this mod if you have a stock sized carb? I have a 38mm air striker on this 1997 cr125 with the gov shimmed. Isnt that year a mikuni TMX on that bike? Let me know.
This model in Greece came with a kehin 36 carburetor... I have in my bike vforce 3 reeds and a full fmf shorty.. with this modify i want to improve the power on low revs... Do you think that i am doing right
If I’m not mistaken, the 90 cr125 had a 36mm pj carb on it. There’s 2 way to get it on there because yes, it’s a real tight squeeze. You can heat the air boot up and make it soft and/or grease the inside of the air boot. I’d heat them grease, it will fit on there with some patience and determination.
I'm glad you liked my governor modification. However the added preload makes the HPP exhaust valve LATER, not sooner! With the bigger carburetor airflow suffers at low RPMs so you want the exhaust smaller for another couple hundred RPMs. By adding additional preload the HPP opens like 600 RPMs later which gives you an additional 4 HP right there in the middle!! Correct - that's 4 HP in the midrange as opposed to loosing 2HP over stock when using the big 38 carburetor.
Thank you for the clarification, Nino! Im trying to figure out how to edit this video to correct when I say it opens earlier. Im not great at video editing. My bike screams now! You are the man!
I've got a 97 cr125r never had a problem with any bogging most people don't ride a 125 in the low end you gotta keep the rpms up
Thanks for sharing 👍👍
Been going through the same thing with a completely different engine not a honda that uses a rotax diaphragm type power valve, ended up going with a stiffer spring. I couldn't find any videos came across your channel from your cr80 wanted post on pnw
Awesome! Thanks for stopping by! What's that motor in??
@@jimmy_dirtbike it's a brc500 motor in a 20 model husky te300
@@mathewsharp233 holy shit bud, let me know how you like that bike! My 500 rattles my arms numb!
@@jimmy_dirtbike it's early days the pv still needs some work thinking slightly longer spring, it works off exhaust pressure there's no centrifuge involved so relys solely on the spring. It's counterbalanced so not much vibration at all barely noticeable, my ktm 500 4t is 10x worse put it that way.
You should do a 500 video they're always popular that would get your subscriptions up lol
Too bad you missed the part with replacing the bearing inside the governor. These governors have done like 30 years already so the bearing in there is worn and has some play which makes the whole assembly slightly inprecise. If you already open up the governor you could easily replace that bearing as well. Takes like 1 minute more and it gets rid of most of the slack there is. In the end it's all about having a precisely working exhaust system, right?
Most definately! I must have missed that part when we were emailing back and forth regarding that bearing actually. I will go back and read our messages! Otherwise, I most definately would have done that part. Are you referring to the ball bearings in the top? I could just reopen the governor, couldn't I? It runs great right now, minus the FMF fatty and VForce you recommended. Only reason I didn't put either of them on there is because I already had a PC and a rad valve on there before the mod. If I can find someone who will buy either one, I will definatley swap them out. Thank you again for all your help with this! I truly appreciate it, Nino!
@@jimmy_dirtbike I think Boyesen is the best one
Thanks Jimmy. Can you tell how many rpm it start to open??
I just got a cr125 2003 with pwk air striker. Power valve seems to open allmost when i touch the throttle😮
No problem dude! I was told that stock is right around 7500 rpms. The shim would make it open 600-700rpms later. I’ve risen my 97 cr125 a couple times since installing the shim, it turned it into a way better bike. I love the 38 pwk on it now!
Cool. Any experience with replacing the spring? Im trying to figure out why mine is opening so fast. Im hopeless trying to find OEM spring as loose part.
Any help would be much appriciated 😄
@@michaelhier3447 if it were me, I’d just get a new governor, they’re cheap. Otherwise, you could just pull the top off the governor like I did in this video and swap a different spring in there. I heard somewhere that the mugen engine cases had the ability to change out governor springs. Not sure where you’d get another spring other than just getting another governor off eBay. Good luck!
Hello Jimmy can you tell me the thickness of the ring that you made to replace the stock ring? The thing is that i have a 2001 cr 125 with a 36 kehin carburettor...
I did not make that, I had it made by a dude in England. However, it s a shim that is 3mm thick. Is that carb a PJ carb? I do not think you need to do this mod if you have a stock sized carb? I have a 38mm air striker on this 1997 cr125 with the gov shimmed. Isnt that year a mikuni TMX on that bike? Let me know.
This model in Greece came with a kehin 36 carburetor... I have in my bike vforce 3 reeds and a full fmf shorty.. with this modify i want to improve the power on low revs... Do you think that i am doing right
@@sotirisdemon9319 if it’s a 36mm, I don’t think you need to do the gov mod. It’s only if you put a bigger 38mm carb on it
My 38 mm airstriker will not fit to my 90 cr125 airbox boot. How did you make your carb fit to the boot?
If I’m not mistaken, the 90 cr125 had a 36mm pj carb on it. There’s 2 way to get it on there because yes, it’s a real tight squeeze. You can heat the air boot up and make it soft and/or grease the inside of the air boot. I’d heat them grease, it will fit on there with some patience and determination.
You are correct original was a pj 36 mm. Thanks for the advice
@@jogentil1 no problem man, let me know if I can help any further!
@@jogentil1 no problem man, let me know if I can help any further!