Doc, while you were turning the handle's boss' interrupted cut, your entire tool post looked like it was rocking about a 1/16th of a inch (~1.5 mm) while the rest of the lathe appeared to be moving much less, if any. You might want to look into that in the near future. Also, you might want to buy a really inexpensive (import?) set of drill bits that you set aside for grabby materials like brass -- and only bother stoning the negative rake onto drills as needed. And, I've seen "thread checkers" with male & female threads of each size on each part at Luthier suppliers (like StewMac here in the U.S.), but I have to assume that similar "thread checkers" are available from many tool suppliers too. I mention this because you said that you didn't know what the thread size was in part of the lathe's backgear mechanism. Or you could select an assortment of bolts & matching nuts in sizes that you might run into, mark thread sizes on each piece, and drill them for a cord/wire to keep them together, if you think it would be useful in your shop. I've got an old (114 years this year) South Bend ~10-inch (250 mm) that is missing a lot of gears & a threading dial. I'll probably make my own gears like you did, plus I'll check your older videos to see whether you have also built a threading dial too. Definite thumbs-up!
The gib screws on the compound loosen and I often have to adjust them, funny part is the cross slide doesn’t do that. No lock nuts as you’ll know from your SB, so it’s hard to set them just right. The thread for the lock screw for the back gear bushing was a 1/4” bsw, it’s all bsw on this lathe lol. Yeah I should buy some cheep drills, will see how I go this weekend if there’s time to swing by the big box tool store.
Did you make the moulding box's, I believe you need a facing sand for your castings did not seem metal coming up the riser . The machinery hand book would give you information on back cutting your drill bits for brass and bronze . To eliminate grabbing.
Brass/bronze is fine without facing sand, iron required coal dust loaded facing sand. Yes I could get a better surface finish if I graphite coated the mould prior to pouring but for this it didn’t seem worth it. I know a small negative rake (can be honed in) works well for sorting the grabbing issue, I built my first lathe out of bronze castings…
Looks good , coming along nicely
getting very close!
Doc, while you were turning the handle's boss' interrupted cut, your entire tool post looked like it was rocking about a 1/16th of a inch (~1.5 mm) while the rest of the lathe appeared to be moving much less, if any. You might want to look into that in the near future. Also, you might want to buy a really inexpensive (import?) set of drill bits that you set aside for grabby materials like brass -- and only bother stoning the negative rake onto drills as needed.
And, I've seen "thread checkers" with male & female threads of each size on each part at Luthier suppliers (like StewMac here in the U.S.), but I have to assume that similar "thread checkers" are available from many tool suppliers too. I mention this because you said that you didn't know what the thread size was in part of the lathe's backgear mechanism. Or you could select an assortment of bolts & matching nuts in sizes that you might run into, mark thread sizes on each piece, and drill them for a cord/wire to keep them together, if you think it would be useful in your shop.
I've got an old (114 years this year) South Bend ~10-inch (250 mm) that is missing a lot of gears & a threading dial. I'll probably make my own gears like you did, plus I'll check your older videos to see whether you have also built a threading dial too.
Definite thumbs-up!
The gib screws on the compound loosen and I often have to adjust them, funny part is the cross slide doesn’t do that. No lock nuts as you’ll know from your SB, so it’s hard to set them just right. The thread for the lock screw for the back gear bushing was a 1/4” bsw, it’s all bsw on this lathe lol. Yeah I should buy some cheep drills, will see how I go this weekend if there’s time to swing by the big box tool store.
Brand be keen to see that lathe, old iron is something special. I haven’t built a thread dial, but I need to it’s missing from the project lathe.
👍
Did you make the moulding box's, I believe you need a facing sand for your castings did not seem metal coming up the riser . The machinery hand book would give you information on back cutting your drill bits for brass and bronze . To eliminate grabbing.
Brass/bronze is fine without facing sand, iron required coal dust loaded facing sand. Yes I could get a better surface finish if I graphite coated the mould prior to pouring but for this it didn’t seem worth it. I know a small negative rake (can be honed in) works well for sorting the grabbing issue, I built my first lathe out of bronze castings…