How to: Remove Siezed bolt in bushing ( HONDA LCA)
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2018
- in todays video we show how the simple process of removing a rear shock can turn into a bigger problem. we run into a problem with the lower controll arm bolt ( LCA) is siezed to the shock bushing. Watch the video to find out how to overcome this problem.
Snapon ph3050b air hammer came in clutch for this job
Camera I use: amzn.to/2R9mOwq
Tripod i use: amzn.to/2CWe21L - Авто та транспорт
3 hours! You did really well. I spent 8 hours over two days and the bolt is still in there, LOL.
me right now😭
Same lol
Same. Mine is 06 crv with less space to work on
I’m a DIYer and I’m two weeks into trying to get out a camber bolt and an axle that’s stuck into its hub this also is a Honda I keep buying tools and maybe one day I’ll win. Also whenever I try to get a mobile mechanic they never show up despite promises which is a bit annoying. But I will take encouragement from you saying they’re only bolts and they must yield in the end thanks for the video.
3:47 Man I feel this shot in my soul so hard. 🙏🙏
😂😂
That's usually how it goes. 20 minutes job turned into 3 or maybe 4 hours job. Did a tune-up on my minivan 20 minutes job, 10 hours later......and broke the cam sensor on top of it.
Hahah i feel where ur coming from
.... I feel your pain, and my pain all because of 1 FUCKING BOLT! ... (Hugs)
Pro tip. Buy a set of oxy acetylene torches. It makes jobs like these go so much better. Also, just get better at knowing when a bolt is going to break or which bolts tend to break. I'm at the point now where I rarely break any bolts but the amount of bolts I torch before even attempting to loosen is getting much larger.
1. A torch will not help with a bolt seized inside a bushing sleeve.
2. Smoke from burning rubber is toxic.
@@arontesfay2520 literally just did rear bushings today on a subaru
Thank for this video , i know what easy way to pull out the strut with the stuck bolt , so annoying 20 min job goes 3hr job for 1 strut
I just went through something similar. Interesting, on one side the bolt was seized and had to be cut, on the other side it came out hard but in one piece. The difference, I believe, what that the shock oil had leaked and drenched the bolt on the side where the bolt was not seized. I heated the nut on both sides with a map/oxy torch and the bolt turned freely in the nut on both sides after being heated. It remained seized, however, in the shock bushing on one side. The rotation I could see (of the bolt in the nut) was the bolt forcing the rubber shock bushing to move. The metal part of the shock bushing remained seized to the bolt no matter what I did even though the both was turning in the nut. In retrospect, I if I had dosed it regularly in penetrating oil for a week or two before attempting the repair I suspect it would have come free. Which is what I'll do next time, if I there is a next time.
Live and learn. 👍
loving the hate toward the suspension 😂
Just changed my struts last night, had the same problem on the same side as yous. Ended up doing the same thing you did, wished I saw this video earlier, Still took about 3 hours. The right side came off easier,but was still a pain. Still saved money though, a shop wanted $670 to change them plus do a 4 wheel alignment.
.
Money well saved 👍👍
You were fortunate that it's, relatively, out in the open. We tried a Sawzall first then used a cutting wheel (full face mask and gloves) on a seized upper control arm bolt/bushing combination in a tighter space. Always think then think again before handling any power tools that operate at high rpms.
I did the exact same thing as this video. I ordered all four struts. So now I’m scared I have a 99 crv with broken nut like this and am thinking the other three struts will be like this. Wow
Thank you for showing how dishonest UA-cam crap is. EVERYONE I talked to has wrestled with this. It is NEVER as easy as those other vids say it is. Why the hell did Honda weld that nut on?
Nothings ever easy. A 1 hour job can turn into a 5 hour job pretty easily
Use Nickel Anti-Seize.
Nickel-Graf or Loctite Nickel anti-seize (5oz-8oz) basically 1/2 pound can with brush on applicator for $17-$19.
That's a lifetime supply for the normal mechanic and at home DIYer.
I advise Anti-Seize on all bushing bolts from Control Arms, Ball joints, wheel hubs, Axle shaft spline, bolt shaft and thread (reduce torque by 30%), Sway bar bushings, Sway Bar Links, Steering Damper Stabilizer, Shocks.
If you do this you will get everything off with ease & no problems if you torque to spec and reduce torque value by multiplying dry torque by 0.7 to get wet torque setting.
▪︎ 95 Ft-Lbs DRY Torque-Spec * 0.7 = 66.5 Ft-Lbs with Anti-Seize on threads.
Some aluminum threaded engine parts and hard to get areas that corrode or rust should have Blue, Orange, Red or Green Threadlocker where appropriate to save you in the situations you need to have torque very precise.
3 hours is better than 3 days (me) or 3 fingers
We were trying to change the control arms on the back of my 97 Civic and those very front bolts I guess the strut bolt the first one broke off like yours and the other one rounded off. So I'm literally in tears trying to figure out what to do with this thing so thanks for the video hopefully I find some tips
Make shure u have new oem honda bolts on hand
You will most likley need to cut the bolt out. Either with a grinder with a thin cut off disk or a sawzall with the expensive carbide bimetal blade. Dont bother with regular sawzall blades. Make shure u use a the carbide one
@@Wrenchlife604 well we're trying to drill it out of the hole with every drill bit we have and we keep breaking them all
Good luck using a drill. It will be super slow. Even with good bits. Buy a grinder and save yourself
same thing just happened to me while i was replacing coilovers but instead of that bolt is the one to the left of it. any suggestions? i was going to take it to the shop and see what they can do but idk how much thats going to cost
I had disame exact issue in my 99 crv thabks for sharing bro I really appreciate it wonder if the torch will help
You can't torch stuff near a shock/strut. Risk of overheating and blowing the shock
We're going to put a new lower control arm on I'm going to try to cut that control arm into two sections and split that bushing into halves with a small Dremel grinder and a regular angle grinder it just seems like water and metal just don't mix
Those steel toe chanclas I see!👌😂
😂😂😂
At least that car utilizes a Mc Phearson style strut w/ the strut & spring all as one unit... On a 1st gen fucus, I have to replace the bolts on the shock & the control arm that houses the spring!
All four of my Aveos lcas happened to the vertical bolt.
The struggle is reeeeaaal
oooooooo Mrs. Clifton
Have you ever changed the rear wheel bearing assembly on your crv?
No i havnt. Usualy its easier to change out the whole rear knuckle with a junkyard unit. Instead of pressing the new hub in
When you are going to do updates for the mercury?
Shot a small update video a few vids back when i introduced the red crv. Gonna do some small stuff here and there on the merc but winters hitting hard already here in canada. And i may have to do the bodywork/primer early next year
One of those guys said if you're going to do this job make sure you got a carbide Sawzall blade a blade is designed to cut cast iron
Homedepot sells carbide diablo red and white sawzall blades and they work well. Expensive tho. About $20 canadian for the smaller 6 inch blade. They work real well
My problem right now
4:23 I used m10 by 1.25 flange bolt and nut
I had a similar situation I had to use a press tool.
What kind of press tool?
@@DaDaDo661 one from autozone. I rented it.
Based on my experience of life there's no small jobs we're working on a Honda Accord 2010 bushing lower control arm bushing it's got a bolt about the same way
You could of dropped the lower control on the left bolt dropped the strut “bomb haha good video I replaced my but I replaced the rear lca’s and rear struts.
I just broke that lca bolt
So I lost most of my bolts for the trailing arm and the have the same problem how would I go about buying new bolts where should I buy them from?
Honda dealer. Or junkyard
Gr8 viDO chEf👋, on oldr cRs it not onlE 'cN hapN' - it hapNz all too oftN.
I am having this exact problem on this exact model. Mine is the outermost bolt on the Right LCA. Ugh argh ugh!!!! Nerd rage x 1000
Hey do you know the length of that bolt?
No idea. Messure it and see. Too long would be better than too short
Ha... do it on the street in the snow and then you can moan 😂
It could always be worse 😂👍
I feel your pain buddy I have the same vehicle and it happed to me on the same side
Nah there`s no way, ive been trying to get the one on the passanger side out for 3 days now, no luck. the nut on the other side of the bolt broke off with a part of the bolt inside it, even so i still can not get it to come out like its fucking welded in there damn. On the driver side it came out so easy like it was nothing. Maybe ill try an air hammer to push it outside from where the nut broke off maybe id have some luck then.
Best of luck. Worst case scenario. Just buy a new controll arm from the junkyard and new bolts from honda. Easier then wasting away days to struggle with broken belts
I end up using a dremel with a cut off wheel. Cut the welded nut off.
What type of dremel? I have this issue right now.
@@lovetheoutdoors9485 use the cut off disk to cut as much of the welded nut as u can. Then used the sand disk/stone to sand it flush.
@@tgkg Thanks. I went to Walmart and bought me a kit and got it done. I was going nuts not being able to drive my civic 😂😂😂
I could feel the anger.
I'm living it
I got 4 broke bruh
Dam shoulda stopped after the 1st. Or maybe even 2nd. ..... or 3rd 😂
nerd raging. that what it's called