*INSTALLATION NOTE:* While this procedure works, I advise installing the large outer race in the knuckle, putting both inner races with bearings in place, installing the outer seal, then pressing the hub through the entire assembly. This lets you make sure the outer seal is fully seated. Please let me know if you have any issues. Thank you! Please read the full description to get the most out of the information provided. This is the shorter version of this tutorial which I was able to cut down by over 25 minutes to save you time while still including the complete repair. Check out the longer version of this video here ua-cam.com/video/WT_3Bxjnnbk/v-deo.html and let me know if you like having the option to watch a long and detailed or short and concise version. I welcome any feedback or critiques. That includes methods for performing the repair as well as filming and editing. I really appreciate any comments. If you have any questions, definitely ask and I will try to reply promptly. I really hope this helps you all out. Please like and subscribe if you appreciated the video. THANK YOU!
Wow! Suddenly shot past 1,000 views. Thank you so much everyone! Really hope this has been helpful. As always, let me know if you have any questions or comments and let me know if this was useful.
@@802Garage hey I just watched another video that said the 2006 Subaru Liberty wagon as most most after 2000 models have a wheel bearing hub assy and its far easier to do by the look if things... thx man.... time to take the wheels off and have a look.
@@wittohasago Yes the 2005+ Legacy/Liberty has bolt in front and rear bearings. They require no specialty tools provided they aren't severely rusted in and are much easier to change. You're in luck!
There should be an international law which mandates sealed one-piece hub/bearing units..... I should add that law should have been made decades ago. Thanks for the video. It has helped tremendously.
Hahaha, tell me about it! Sooo much easier. These aren't so bad after doing a few though. Subaru has now switched to all sealed bolt in units AFAIK, though there may be a few hold overs in the front. Please let me know if you need any other tips or advice or you encounter any issues!
802 Garage great vid,i have 98 legacy,shop says hub assembly 650$ is this vid showing replacing the hub assembly or just the bearing? can i buy the hub assembly with bearings included and do a easier job or different job than your vid shows? i have zero knowledge about mechanics but have some tools and time,thanks
I commend your effort but I found it so much easier to take the hub to a shop to remove and press in the bearing for $20. This sort of effort is for young people without bad knees and back. Great video and instruction.
If you have a shop that will do it for $20 and it's nearby, by all means! For a lot people you won't find a shop to do it for less than a half hour rate or they just don't bother. Part of why I made this vid is so many others said to take it to a shop. The advantage here too for the front specifically is not worrying about disrupting the alignment. I also just like to do my own work and I have had a shop screw up a bearing pressing before. I hear you on the knees and back though, even if I'm still fairly young, it's a pain. Will be a lot less up and down when I get a lift! Appreciate the view and comment. :)
I got quoted $600/wheel to do bearings by a local shop recently. I bought the parts and the tools to do the job for around $350. If you ha e the time to figure it out for yourself, you can save a lot of money. This video has been my companion through the whole thing. Thanks for making it!
Just gone done, four hours. Not bad for me and my first time, that slide hammer is a peach, the press kit is all that and a bag of chips. Thanks for the walk through , you made me buy some tools but the satisfaction of knowing how to do the job and being able to do it myself was worth it. Great tutorial.
Eyyy that's awesome thanks a lot for the comment! Takes me about 3-4 hours on a really rusty hub and def took me that long my first few times, so good deal. Nice thing is those tools pay for themselves after 1 or 2 uses easily. :D
I did the same bearing change today!!! without the same tool kit, just a threaded bar and other accessories!! thanks for your teaching! God bless you greatly!
Helped me a bunch on my 99 Subaru Legacy Outback. Rented the tools from Autozone and bought a new hub / bearing & seals at O'rileys. Took 2-3 hours. Total cost $120 and some change. Could have saved money if I reused the hub but I didn't have a way of getting the old bearing off so I decided it would be easier to replace that too. Oh and the tool rentals were $260 but I got that back when I returned them. Was much easier then I had thought. Thank you very much.!
Really glad to help! My method for getting the race off the old hub now is to use a Dremel with a cutting wheel to cut a slit, then just use any metal chisel to get it to crack and slide it off. It's surprisingly easy. It's definitely a job you can save a ton of money on by doing it yourself. The tools I have linked only amount to about $150-200 if you plan on doing it a lot in the future. Hope it lasts for you! Save even more if you buy the parts on Rock Auto and Amazon. All told doing a front bearing on this car probably cost me $60 or so.
Thanks! Over time I've gotten better at this procedure as well and can save some time. Want to make an updated video, but don't want to replace a wheel bearing for no reason. Also, using these hand tools is the correct procedure for rear Subaru bearings per a service bulletin. Helps ensure they are pressed in evenly and not damaged. I figure it's better for the fronts too. 😁 Much appreciate the comment!
Nice job. Included the relevant details. I once watched a vid on replacing the alt where the guy showed a shot of it before working on it, then another after he had replaced it. Nothing in-between. That was fantastic.
Wow, that's awful! That's a big part of why I made this video. I was tired of tutorials that said "Take your hub to a shop to get the old bearing pressed out and the new bearing pressed in." Like, no. I want to do it myself. Thanks a lot!
Hey man by far the best how to change an axle in a Subaru video on UA-cam thanks for all the little tricks really appreciate it I’ve got a 98 legacy outback I’m getting ready to do !! save me so much time thanks
Very welcome! It's definitely a less intimidating job once you have seen it done. If you have issues popping the ball joint check out my ball joint trick videos. Everything else is pretty easy.
you dont need to remove the pinion to remove the axle. remove the two bolts on shock after you mark the top one. the after the axle nut is off hammer it out if needed and swing the pinion out of the way of the axle. pounch out axle pin slide it all out.
Thanks for the vid. I did the job today and wouldn't have been able to without your tutorial. A bearing splitter was essential to me getting the inner race off the hub. It was so tight that the race actually cracked in the removal process. I ground that race out with a Dremel to use it as the spacer to push the new race onto the hub
Fantastic to hear it! Thanks for the comment. A bearing splitter is the preferred tool for removing the race really. I had bought one to make this video, but it was too small and the larger ones were pricey. You actually want the race to crack, becomes much easier to remove. I prefer to use a Dremel with a cutting wheel now. Make a very fine slit almost all the way down to the hub, smack with a chisel to crack it, and then it comes off easy. Hope the bearing lasts you a long time!
Really well done. I had a near miss recently where i just had to replace a sticking caliper, and was considering possibly having to do this job (only ever held the light for my dad on a bearing job when young). Your video is good enough to convince me I won't be attempting this unsupervised anytime soon! A man has to know his strengths, weaknesses, and his tool and handy junk laying around inventory!
Ugh, those calipers just love to stick don't they! Suck a pain to diagnose and then typically end up replacing. This is quite a big job, but if you are methodical it's not too easy to mess up. The last part is the scariest, you really want everything pressed fully together. It will definitely save you a lot of time though just to have a shop press it out and in. If you feel up to it you can always remove the entire knuckle instead and bring it somewhere. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I have a tip for you pressing the inner race onto the hub. Take the race from the old hub and grind it out from the inside using a drill press and a stone point or grinding wheel. Just bring the table up so you can slide the race around the spinning tool easily. Make sure it has a good gap before you try fitting that on the hub spindle or it will get stuck.
Great idea! Almost exactly what I did actually. I just happened to have an old race for another vehicle around that was slightly larger. For everyone else doing this though, that should work well.
I just did this EXACT repair on a 99 legacy. Same hub kit. Works awesome 👍, My hub was unusable do to wear on the surface and i ended up blowing a new bearing, second inner race was loose 😫. For $30 extra it is definitely peace of mind plus you get new studs.
Interesting! I haven't encountered that problem with a hub yet, but obviously you should ideally be checking some tolerances. My main concern with buying replacement hubs is most of the aftermarket definitely are not as good as OEM. Thinned faces and lower quality studs etc. Some are quite good though. The Dorman seem nice for the money. Thanks for the comment! Sorry you had to redo the job.
Well done. I appreciate your willing to learn and teach, and edit correction (correct names of parts). Names don’t matter when you do it right, but you did both 🤙
Thanks so much for that feedback! I tried really hard to get good angles and not mangle my speech, hah. Hopefully future tutorials will be even better as I practice more and get better equipment.
Top video ! Well done. Contemplating this job on my 09 Forester. Trying to foresee the problems. I’ve changed control arms, drop links and knuckles 2 years ago, so I’m hoping things come apart easier this time. Salty roads during norwegian winters are my worst enemy 😆
Best video I found, thanks. Also found it funny how you were correcting yourself the whole time, even tho I knew what you were talking about.😁 Thanks again👍👍👍
Thank you very much! I wasn't quite as confident in my presentation back then. Sometimes I want to do an updated version of this, but I still need to make a back bearing tutorial first. Quick note on this one BTW, I recommend now that people install the outside inner race and the outside seal and press the whole assembly together at the same time. See my pinned comment.
Thanks, I really appreciate the feedback! Making sure no grit is in that new bearing is super important, and I hate it when how tos don't show you the little details like seal orientation. There is even more detail in the long version, but I figured this covers the most important stuff. :)
About to take the plunge and change out the hub. Bearing change is a given since I have to change the hub. initial job was to replace the front CV axle but the axle would not slide out of the hub unit. I used a 3 jaw screw jack puller, then a hydraulic 3 jaw puller, and finally a sledge hammer and that only made it worse by mushrooming the end. Yes, I did have the other end of the shaft removed before I started hammering away and still no joy. I will have to remove the knuckle to disassemble the CV joint then make another attempt to remove the stuck shaft in the hub. If all that fails, I'll just go to a junk yard and get another knuckle and hub assembly. Freezing the Cup (Outer ring) was spot on! Lubricating the mating surfaces was also an excellent tip. Reduces friction and ease of installation. Lubricating the hub OD to the bearing bore also a good tip. I would of used machine tool oil (air tool oil) instead of grease. Less messy and when seating the bearing to the hub shoulder there is less of a chance of grease creating back pressure and the bearing cup and/or cone not being properly seated. I will attempt to heat the bearing cone and roller assembly using an induction heater. I'll use a direct contact temp probe or temp stick to monitor the temperature so as not to over temp the bearing. Since it already comes pre-lubed, the temperature should not affect the grease much. As long as the grease is quality. The Timken bearing you demo does come with quality grease so no issue there. If I didn't get another knuckle, I'll have to reinstall the knuckle and use the side hammer method to remove the hub and bearing from the knuckle. and follow the rest of your tutorial which is excellent. Checking end play on the bearing was critical and glad you showed the what that looked liked by the movement of the hub to the knuckle. Over tighten (preloading) the bearing can also reduce bearing life. Will update post and let you know how it all went
Ah I'm sorry I meant to reply to this right away! Sometimes those axles get insanely seized like that. Such a pain. I have been lucky to never have one that bad. Always grease your axle splines when you install them so that doesn't happen in the future! Freezing any press fit parts always makes life easier, hah. Machine tool oil would work for lubrication too. The main reason I use grease is actually to make absolutely sure it doesn't rust together in the future. I always plan on doing a job again, since I make my cars last. I do hear you on not wanting to create a hydraulic lock though. In this case I assumed there would be enough room for all the grease to escape and squeeze out. Still a good point though and something to watch out for. Sometimes I'm heavy handed with grease. I really want an induction heater for breaking bolts free, hah. Would be nice for press fit parts too. Just cooling the hub should honestly be enough. I usually find that part of the pressing much easier than pressing in the bearing cup. Usually not much resistance. Also a note on that if you didn't read it in the pinned comment. I recommend putting the outside roller into the knuckle first, installing the outer seal so you know it's flush, putting the rear roller in, and then pressing the hub through both rollers at once. I wish I had shown that method in this video since sometimes the outside seal will be very hard to press in with the hub in the way. I may even make an updated tutorial in the future. Not the end of the world, but obviously we all want a well installed seal for long life! Do let me know if you get yours all sorted out. :)
finally got around to doing mine. ended up just removing the knuckle and having a mechanic press the old hub/bearing out and new ones in for $40. only like 30 minutes of labor on my part. this is one of the few things i'd say you're better off paying someone else to do
Yeah $40 isn't too bad if you could do the knuckle removal and all yourself. Some people want to charge more which is ridiculous. Personally I've had great results doing it myself and both bearings on this car are still going many tens of thousands of miles later after I changed them. Plus this way it doesn't change alignment. I totally hear you though, def a job it can be worthy paying a bit to have someone do. Thanks for the comment!
Good video. If you plan to get a front end alignment, which you might as well just take off the last two fasteners that hold the hub to the strut and set the entire hub on a bench. Use an airgun to turn the hub press bolt it won't hurt the inner hub surface. I use a threaded rod from Home Depot and series of large washers that I've collected over the eyars. Works great.
Yep great DIY solution! Alignments have gone up to $75 minimum in my area so I try to avoid it. I don't mine using an impact to take out the old race, but I definitely prefer using hand tools to press all new bearing components in. Thanks for the comment. :)
Appreciate the input, but in Vermont we put anti seize on EVERYTHING. Hahaha. The axle nut gets staked so it's all good. But obvs check and use caution and digression. Thanks!
Hahaha I know I could have worded it better. What I meant is without a literal press, a floor/bench mounted hydraulic press. They are pricey and you have to remove the knuckle from the car. This is actually the dealer service procedure though!
Just stopping to say this helped me replace my bearings on my 98 Subaru . Hoping for the best :) thank you . And yeah I just cut the old bearing race and used it as a spacer ;)
They aren't too bad. Used to be a lot more common. They can actually be easier than bolt on units because when those puppies seize in the knuckle they can be a nightmare. Please read the pinned comment for the install note about the seals and assembly order. :)
Wow! Thank you so much! That was actually my exact goal, to make a better tutorial on how to do this without a press than the others available. With this process you should not need an alignment. That's one of the main benefits of not taking the knuckle off the car. That said, it's always a good idea to get an alignment periodically. Please check out the full description to links for the best deals on the tools used!
Agreed. I'm doing it with a press, but the other videos skip over important parts and challenges. Solid job with the video as well. I agree you don't need an alignment if you leave it on the car. That was my plan, but I had to drill out the pincher bolt on the knuckle, so I had to take it off. If you take it off, you can mess up your camber if you don't put your top bolt back to where it was (many people mark it with a metallic pen, I just scratch a line in it).
Yeah, marking it should get you close enough. Bummer about the pinch bolt. Been there multiple times! I have drilled it out on the car. Also had the clamp break due to a long time forming crack once, had to replace the whole knuckle.
Well, I did end up replacing the whole knuckle, but in retrospect, I think I could've just drilled a slightly larger hole, and ran a new bolt through it, but I wasn't sure if that would be 100% safe. Drilling it on the car, now that's genius level. Smarter not harder they say ;)
Well on one way yes, but it also makes drilling harder, especially if you have a drill press. Very commonly people just drill out the old bolt abd put a new bolt in with a nut on the other side. Just have to grind the back side flat a bit for the nut and washer. Ended up having to do it on I think both knuckles in my '93. Plenty safe as long as you don't drill the hole needlessly large and the knuckle is in good shape. I always pack the hell out of everything with grease after so it doesn't corrode so fast too. Always easier the second time I do it! XD
Great job i just have one recommendation find your self an old or cheap area style rug or scrap piece of carpet the dimesions dnt really matter but it sure beats droping screws/ nuts / bolts in the dirt or grass or even when working under the car it sure beats rolling around in the dirts or grass& geeting stones in the back🤓other then tht i like your style!
Hahaha great advice and I totally agree! I often work on this weird woven plastic mat I have. Really not sure where it was in this video. I finally have the garage clean enough to do more work inside though! Thanks a bunch.
I finally got around to replacing my wheel bearing (and CV axle) yesterday. This video helped a ton! I basically followed it to the letter. I do have one issue that I'd like to ask you about. When I got the hub and bearings all pressed back together and gave it a turn, it gives off a slight squealing noise. It doesn't sound horrible, just a little annoying. While driving with the window down it is very quiet and more like a whistle. The Timken bearing I purchased came with both bearing halfs already assemblied inside the outer race. I decided to press the entire thing into the knuckle, which I did. But then I noticed the little protective plastic ring on the very inside, when I went to pull it out both bearings exploded out and landed on the ground. I closely examined them for any contamination or loss of grease, but I think they looked fine, and landed in a mostly clean way. Though maybe this is the reason it makes noise. I then proceeded to press them together separately just as you did. Do you think the noise is much to worry about? Might it cause any damage beyond just having to replace the bearing again? Maybe it'll go away after a bit (like that ever happens...)? I figured the bearings itself are cheap enough I'll just buy a new one if I end up having to redo it. Nice trick for the ball joint. I couldn't find a round end wrench that fit quite right, but that led me to a better solution. I own one of these amzn.to/2ihNafO . The tool itself is not so great, but it does have a nice solid tapered metal handle. I lifted from below the ball joint, hammered it in as a wedge, and then dropped the lift. I was also able to use the old inner race, cut off the hub, to press on the new race, instead of a bigger one that you used. Just make sure you cut it completely and get it spread out a bit so it comes off easy. Thanks!
Ouch! That's a bummer about the bearings coming out. I should have mentioned the plastic retaining ring in this video. The issue with pressing the entire bearing in with all three pieces together is that you are pressing the outer bearing half into the outer race, which can mar the surface slightly. It's not typically a big issue I think. That said, you could easily have gotten a small piece of debris into the bearing too, which hopefully at some point will stick itself out of the way and not be an issue. As long as the noise gets better and not worse, you should be alright. Just keep an eye one it. At worst you would have to replace the bearing again. It would only cause more damage if you let it get so bad that the bearing locked up or fell apart. Also just make sure there is absolutely no lateral movement in your hub, as that would indicate it wasn't 100% pressed together. Nice job on improvising for the ball joint. Anything sturdy and metal should do. It's a fantastic trick though, can save tons of time and beating on metal. When I used the old race from the hub to try and press on the new one, it just couldn't go in far enough without something else pressing on it. Glad it worked out for you.
I bought both these bearing kits on Ebay delivered for a just little less than $100 ( my hammer is gray not chrome) so those on the fence about tool expense don't let that stop you.
Hi thanks for the good video just did mine on the back of my Subaru use gear puller to pull off the inner race instead of cutting it it just pops off very easy with gear puller..
Great camera angles, clear explanation, absolutely wonderful video my dude! It's been a while since I've done mine and I appreciate you making this video so I can use it as a refresher! You just earned a like and new subscriber :)
@@whyareallnamestaken69 Love to hear it! I have a 91 Legacy wagon I am turbocharging for fun later this year if all goes well. I already have most of the parts. :)
Great video, an easier way that i do now is just get the bearing preloaded then you can put the whole bearing in then the hub into it, instead of pressing all the races together.
Thank you and agreed! I actually noted that in my pinned comment. I realized later you can leave the plastic retainer in place as long as your bolt fits through it. Makes life easier. :D
Great video! I can't find an auto parts store that loans out the bearing press like the one you used. I hate to buy one for a one time use but guess I will unless I can find a machine shop that will press it on for me. Again though, great video and taught me a lot. Thanks Billy
That's why I like this procedure as well! Does not alter alignment. Same exact procedure on an 02 Legacy. You rear bearing is bolt in though. Do see my installation note in the pinned comment. Thanks. :)
If you have a press available it's definitely a good option. Personally I don't find this to be too much more work and it's oddly satisfying. Plus the big bonus is not having to worry about alignment. Again though, totes use a press if you have it!
I definitely understand why he left it on the car, but I’m thinking there just those two more bolts, I would’ve took that knuckle off and took it in. You would have to pay for the alignment which is true.
Nice video man. On your installation note, you are basically saying to push the bare hub through all other components, which are installed in the knuckle? Have we decided it won't damage the outside set of rollers that would be smashed against the outer race as the hub gets pressed through it? Not criticizing, just making sure I understand what you are saying. Doing shocks, wheel bearings, CV axles, ball joints and maybe tie rods on my 03 Fozzy in the next few weeks. Just wanna be sure I understand so I am not watching vids and reading comments with greasy ass hands
Right. So remove the old inner race from the hub, or use a new hub. Press the new outer race into the knuckle. Place the outside inner race into the knuckle, and press in the new outer seal. This is the main difference as it allows you to make sure the seal is in properly. Then place the inside inner race into the back side of the knuckle, and press the hub through both at the same time like in the video. You can also leave the hub in the freezer as before to shrink it a bit. It will not damage either set of rollers. You can actually leave the bearing fully assembled and press it in place and then press the hub through. It's how you have to do the rear, because the inside inner race cannot pass through the back of the knuckle. Google "MSA5TT0201" and you'll find the installation guide update for bearings that should clear up any questions. No criticism detected no worries! I actually wish I could update this tutorial a bit. Maybe someday soon. Good luck with the Forester and let me know if you have any other questions! I will warn you that the rear wheel bearings are likely to be a massive pain due to the long bolt rusting solid. I'm sure you've heard of the issue. I actually started to film a rear tutorial and got held up by said issues. Hoping to make one in the near future.
Thanks! Please read the pinned comment for an installation note and let me know if you have any questions. It got unpinned somehow, but should be there now.
i dont have a car and i like to watch mecanics video on youtube .my uncle and i used to do mecanics job like brake pad galipper brake line exhaust timing belt engine tranny swap . the only thing i have not done my self is play inside an engine like changing a piston i let uncle do this stuff 😃 .
I've def watched a ton of mechanics videos on jobs I'll likely never do! Haven't gotten into engine building myself, but want to soon. Sorry I didn't see this until now.
when there was no mechanic available to do this job before the weekend, i replaced the bearing myself using your tutorial. I did not want to buy slide hammer so i bolted an old brake disc in a way the disc has more offset and then i used standard hammer just banging the disc ..
Awesome! I have def seen people do the whole job with just a hammer. Totally legit way to take the old one out. I only worry about hammering the new bearing in, though it can be done safely. Glad the tutorial helped!
@@802Garage i got the set of the bushes shown in the vid, just didn't get the slide hammer so the new bearing is well treated;). Great trick to take out the ball joint, no slamming nor burning it like in the other videos... Cheers!
@@salsarriba5695 Oh awesome! That's the most important part of install IMO. One reason I like using these tools is you can feel if there is resistance. A lot of times when people use a press it just forces it and they can damage something. I looove that ball joint trick. Has saved me so much time. Be sure to pass it on! Haha. Thanks again for the comments. :)
I like your helpful attitude and informative comments, and I suspect you will have no follow-on trouble. Nice audio/video production too. But I'm worried about the example your tools and techniques set for the audience. Having performed a few of these myself (starting with the identical tools and techniques you used) I'm worried that you did so many operations blind (no clear line of sight, trusting by feel or inspecting afterward), using no torque wrench (to reinstall precisely), and cutting/chiseling the inner race (hazardous to the hub integrity). I felt better after I graduated to removing those 2 lower strut bolts so the hub came off the vehicle and could be rebuilt in good light using a floor press instead of the slide hammer and bolt/nut that came with the pressure plate set. With a bearing separator I didn't even need to cut the inner race to press it off. With a torque wrench I knew the hub was reassembled into the vehicle more precisely.
Hey Mike! Thanks a lot for the comment. Really appreciate the feedback. I agree with you that making sure this is done correctly is important. I would advise anyone who is weary to watch many tutorials and if they don't feel comfortable, take it to a shop instead. To be honest though, many mechanics will use similar techniques to do the job, and some not nearly as carefully. This is definitely the most complex tutorial on my channel and probably will be for quite some time. Even changing a timing belt can take less time. You'll note that I have a long version of the tutorial which actually goes into even more detail and shows more steps and checking than this one does. Just wanted to mention that first off, since I figured people of varying experience levels might be looking and want more or less detail and it may address a few of your concerns. As for working blind as you said, I have always been taught that a lot of mechanical work is done by feel as opposed to visually. For example, when tightening the races all the way together or when pressing in a new seal, visually it make look like they are fully together when in fact there is a very small gap. Working by feel when the pressure on the bolt actually changes for example, will give you a better indicator. Plus, unlike a shop press, you can better feel when it is fully seated rather than just listening for when a machine struggles. Part of the reason I do everything manually instead of with an impact gun like many people, is it gives you a far better indicator of how complete a step is. I had a mechanic press a bearing together for me years ago and it was completely loose and floppy because he did it with impact tools and didn't actually check by hand. The problem with using a torque wrench as opposed to doing it by feel is that if by chance there is debris or a nick in one of the components, it may get hung up when pressing together and the torque wrench will give a false finish indication. As for cutting off the race, I definitely would have preferred to have a bearing separator. I actually bought one, but it was too small. Unfortunately decent ones add extra cost. I've found using a Dremel with a cutting wheel makes cracking the race very quick and easy and low chance of nicking the hub. If very concerned, I'd always recommend replacing the hub anyways. I just wanted to save money. In terms of sight, I still visually and by feel double check every step of the process, just as I would off the car. I hope I'm not ranting too much, and I'm in no way trying to say what you recommend isn't valid. Tone is hard to communicate on the internet, but believe me I appreciate your thoughts. Basically, the methods in this video assume that people will understand enough to know the risks involved. This is really a technique to save some time and money and avoid needing an alignment as well. I certainly never want to steer anyone wrong or put them in danger, but I do believe this is a proper and complete process to perform the replacement. Even if in my case specifically I cut a few corners to save money, such as reusing the hub and not having a bearing separator. The only thing I might change in the future is placing the seal in before pressing the hub into both races. It has been over a year since I did the replacement on both sides and no noise yet! Plus I have done bearings for others that are going strong. Thanks again for your comment.
I just did one front bearing on an 01 forester. I put both bearing in the hub then pressed on the hub as you advised in the comments .The bearing failed in 2 days .i thought it was defective parts but ive seen your way and the way i did mine .
First of all, what brand of bearing did you use? Second, there are several potential issues here. The first and most likely would be that you did not press the hub all the way through both inner bearing races. If you used a plate that was slightly too large it may have hung up on the knuckle itself and not fully pressed through. Then if torquing the axle nut on did not draw it through the rest of the way, that would have resulted in a loose bearing. Another option is that you somehow pressed on the outside of the back inner bearing which will damage the cage and potentially dislodge rollers. It's also possible something was off angle when you started pressing and you forced past it. I am not criticizing you at all by the way, I have no idea what happened just giving options. In general though, if you did press the hub all the way through both inner bearings, which would mean without the axle installed there should be absolutely no in and out play of the hub and you should not be able to rock it up and down at all either, then there is no way the bearing should have failed in 2 days unless there was a sealing issue and all of the grease escaped. This can happen if you forget a seal, obviously, or if one is damaged during installation, or not fully pressed in. That last reason is the main reason I suggested the alternate method in the pinned comment, because the way I showed, it was not guaranteed to press the outer seal in all the way without for example using a screwdriver around it to press it in the rest of the way. Even if a seal was slightly loose, I would be surprised if it lost enough grease to fail in a couple days. The other option, which is extremely common, is that you did not torque the axle nut enough, or that it was not staked enough and it started to back out and loosened up enough to allow the bearing to become damaged. I have seen this happen many times, including by shops. A friend recently had a shop replaced there wheel bearing and they did not stake the axle nut and it came loose and destroyed the bearing. They sent me pictures and I was able to demonstrate this was the case and the shop replaced it for free because they are the ones who screwed up. I am very sorry this happened to you and I hope it was not an error of my guide that caused the issue, but I hope this comment helps you figure it out. Basically, not pressing the hub all the way through and/or inadequately twerking or staking the axle nut allowing a bearing to run while slightly loose is the most common reason it would fail quickly. The other common reasons are low quality aftermarket bearings, torque applied to one of the bearing races in a direction it should not have been or on the wrong part of one of the bearings, and grease sealing issues.
Boo yah! The one bit of advice I usually give that's different than this video is it makes more sense to put in both inner bearings first, put in the outer seal, and press the hub through the whole assembly in one go. That way you know the outer seal is fully seated. Let me know if you have any issues!
@@802Garage Thanks for your video and responses to questions! If you install the hub with the bearings in the knuckle (like you mentioned above), aren't you putting more stress on the outer roller bearing and its inner race as they will have to push back as you force the hub in? Probably if the hub shaft is well greased, the forces will be low? I agree it is better from the outer seal viewing though. I'm planning on replacing one front bearing on an 04 Forester XT very soon!
@@brianzacher7007 The quick answer is yes, it will apply some force to the rollers, and therefore to both race surfaces. However, it is not much more force than the bearing will see in regular use and should not be detrimental. This is actually the same as the updated Subaru recommended procedure for the rear bearings, where they also specifically state not to use a hydraulic press as to avoid sideward or excessive force. That's why this is my preferred procedure. Thank you for your comment!
No problem! Did you already do the job? One last thing I wish I had covered in this is that you can press the hub through both inner races at the same time with the outer seal already in place, so you know it is fully seated. This is actually how you have to do it for rear wheel bearings. Otherwise it can be difficult to get the outer seal fully seated with this procedure. Thanks for the comment and hope your car is well!
These are the tools I recommend right now: amzn.to/2tufQtt amzn.to/2u95htA The OTC set is very high quality and has a multitude of uses. The bearing tool kit is the same from any brand, that's just the cheapest price I can find right now. Plus if you use these links, I can get a small commission from Amazon, so if you want to help me out I appreciate it. Here are some other good options though: amzn.to/2t0U0N5 amzn.to/2uttlGN amzn.to/2t1goWY amzn.to/2tzAVmH Thanks again for the comment!
That's really frustrating! There are no stores near me that rent tools, so I just bought them online. I put links to a lot of cheap options in the description, so check them out! If you do buy from a link, it will help support the channel too. No pressure at all though! Let me know if you have any questions in the future.
amzn.to/2rwe1JS That's the set I have and it's a decent price right now. Also just wanted to note I do have a more detailed version of this tutorial if you by chance want to go more in depth. ua-cam.com/video/WT_3Bxjnnbk/v-deo.html
I added that particular one, when I pull the trigger just cant afford it now, worked on my kids bugeye (owned by me) thought it might be a bad bearing but no play at 6/12 and no grinding turned out to be a piece of an old soda can jammed in the brakes from him thrashing it....
Excellent video! Liked, subscribed, rolling drunks in the common to gather scratch for a tee shirt. But I'm disappointed with the car: only 228,000 miles and 𝒂𝒍𝒓𝒆𝒂𝒅𝒚 a bearing goes bad? [I blame the previous owner.] Keep it up.
Hahaha many thanks really appreciate the comment! You should see my current daily. It's another 1993 Impreza that just passed 297,000 miles. I haven't had to do a bearing yet, but I only got it at 264,000 miles. ;)
I completed the bearing replacement today with the tools and instructions you gave in the video. My only concern is that after the hub is installed, the hub turns very hard. Is this because the outer oil seal is rubbing on the hub? and is this normal?
Ah, you may need to find a way to push the bearing seal in further like levering it around with a screwdriver until the face of the seal sits flush with the rim of the bearing housing in the knuckle. It's my one regret with this tutorial how I said to install that outer race before pressing in the hub as it's how I originally learned it. Please see the pinned comment. Otherwise it could be you don't have the bearing fully pressed together make sure you used a plate small enough on the back side that it didn't hit the retaining ring. As I noted at around 14:45. The hub should not wiggle up and down or side to side at all once fully installed. If it still has a little play when you reinstall the wheel, you may need to tighten the axle nut more to finish drawing it together and then final torque the axle nut before staking. Hope that all makes sense.
It seems like a lot, but really it's very logical and procedural. It may take you 2-4h the first time, but it can be done much faster, especially if the car isn't rusty. Also check the pinned comment for my installation note. You can technically skips a few steps by keeping the 3 piece bearing together with the plastic retainer, putting the outer seal in first, then pressing the hub through it all in one step. Let me know if you have any questions.
Great video! I noticed your torque specs was 137 ft lbs, what year is your car? My 2004 outback calls for 162 ft lbs. I removed the knuckle and used a shop press. While I had mine apart, I replaced the wheel bearings, seals, struts, ball joints and axles on both sides. Look into a 24" handle on a 1/2" ratchet. It may help you out. Have a great day!
1993 Impreza. I should have mentioned that the later cars have a higher spec. I plan to make a new and better version of this tutorial at some point. Thanks!
I think it's awesome that you show how to do this job without a hydraulic press. I love my RedLine 50 ton press! But not everyone has access to them. If you remove the knuckle from the strut, match mark the upper bolt position as it's an eccentric bolt for the camber adjustment. You will want that to be put back in the exact same rotational position it came from. Keep up the great work!
@@richB666 Yep, that's part of why I like to do it without removing the knuckle and by popping the ball joint. Doesn't mess with the alignment. Also for the rear specifically, Subaru actually put out a service bulletin saying to use this procedure because many bearings were getting damaged when installed with a hydraulic press. I think mostly because people weren't aligning them properly or were using too much force after the bearing was already seated. So I like to use these tools in general. Nothing wrong with the press if you know what you are doing though.
How to remove a wheel bearing without a press, using a press... I seem to be missing something... Other than that I do love to see the ingenuity shown here.
Hydraulic was a really long word to put in the title. I'm talking about a standing shop press. Sorry for any confusion haha. A lot of people think you need one to do wheel bearings. Appreciate the comment. :)
It may be slightly easier to install the hub before the c-clip, but it shouldn't make a difference either way as long as you use the right sized press. :)
TBH I think I found the specs online and confirmed with multiple sources and screenshots of service manuals. I now have the full Subaru FSM for torque specs, but everything in this video should be accurate.
What year and make car is featured? I have a 2004 outback and right ball joint pinch bolt broke. I machined it out but thought there was a clearance issue and recessed the formerly threaded side down so it cracked when tightening the pinch bolt. Seems to have the same knuckle. Please verify what model and year ranges have the same set up you have in the video. Thank you.
Yep I have had that happen before. I usually verify parts fitment with parts.subaru.com your front knuckle is the same as any 00-04 Legacy or Outback, 03-06 Baja, 03-08 Forester, 02-07 Impreza. Good luck!
You don't happen to know the part numbers you used? Maybe I missed them in the video... Thank you for making this video. My bearing just started making noise recently and was afraid I would need to take the knuckle to a shop to do it. Hopefully I could borrower a puller and or a bearing set and do this myself in the near future.
If you mean part numbers for the tools, I have links in the description! The car parts I actually used in this video are these: Bearing - amzn.to/2Bl44mf Inner Seal - amzn.to/2iQgyuO Outer Seal - amzn.to/2iPIYoJ There are other options though, and these vary slightly by car, though mostly the same for 90s Subaru vehicles.
Excellent!! Is it possible that you give us that subaru workshop manual? In my country it is not found and it is a formidable tool! I do most of the mechanics to my 1993 Subaru Legacy. Thanks so much!
@@felipeacelass.4346 There is a link for the 1992 on this page. It should work for almost everything on your car. Let me know if it doesn't work for you for some reason and I'll find another option. sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU
I did the same bearing change today!!! without the same tool kit, just a threaded bar and other accessories!! thanks for your teaching! God bless you greatly!
I think 165 is the high end of the range for later model Foresters. Early models should be 137 +-14 ft lbs. I could be wrong though. Either way always best to double check for your specific car! Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@802Garage Well mine is a 1999 SF5. I agree that ppl should consult the manuals. They can be a bit tedious to find your way in for the impatient but its important to get these torque settings correct.
I absolutely agree. I'm the type to find the FSM online for any car I have an use all the correct torque specs on everything suspension and engine related. I almost always confirm the torque specs I find in videos, but I def didn't intend to steer anyone wrong, which is part of why I list the year and model in the description as well. Thanks again!
I'm actually making the rear wheel bearing tutorial right now! There are a few key differences. Instead of the ball joint you have to remove the dreaded lateral link bolt. Spraying it for several days with penetrating lube will help you try to get it out without snapping. If you do end up breaking it, you can get the bolt, nut, and two washers from any dealer or I can send you an Amazon link to the kit. Also, the rear wheel bearing has three seals instead of two. It has one outer and two inner. Make sure you put them all back in with the right order and orientation. Lastly ans this is important, you must place the inside inner race inside of the outer race when you press it into the knuckle. You will not be able to put the inner race through the axle stub hole. Then you should put in the outside inner race and outer seal, then press the hub through both inner races at the same time. Hope that all makes sense. Let me know if you have any questions!
@@802Garage I actually was blessed by the Lord! After a few days of soaking the bolts I was able to get them moving back & forth with a 2 foot 1/2" breaker bar. I then hit it with impact gun while first applying lateral pressure with a screw driver. Once gap opened wife enough I put an open end wrench in their. Both sides spun out. I'm waiting on the be bearings & hubs to resemble. Thanks again. Without your video I wouldn't have had confidence to even start the job.
That's great! I unfortunately was not so lucky while filming my tutorial. I soaked mine for days and even heated the bolt several times and soaked it some more. The nut came off no problem, but the bolt just truly said no. Got it free inside of one bushing and from the knuckle. It was so seized in the other bushing though that it just started tearing the rubber instead of coming out, and at that point the bushing would absorb all the impact from my gun. So basically I ended up with a ruined bolt that won't come out and a ruined bushing. I then realized I had two replacement knuckles for the rear of my car, with lateral links and control arms, all in much better shape than mine on the car. Plus, I have to replace the rear subframe anyways. So for now I'm just going to save the bearing and replace the entire rear end, hahaha. Thanks again a ton for the comments!
My inner and outer seals swapped places, normally I would go ahead and fix this but I have already pressed the bearing on the hub. Does that cause an issue? They are in the “right” orientation, just swapped places inner for outer and outer for inner
To be honest I'm not 100% sure what will happen. I think the lip isn't big enough for the outer seal to take place of the inner, or it's just missing the part that touches the axle face. So you'll likely have some premature moisture and dirt ingress. Worst case scenario is you'll have to replace the bearing sooner than normal, but if you took it apart you would have to anyways. So I'd just let it ride or pull the axle back out and put the correct inner seal in at least. Good luck!
They come already packed with grease. Instructions are not to add any grease. If you get a bearing that is not greased, which is very rare with this type, you are supposed to grease it of course. :)
This helped me with my 2001 Subaru Forester sti here in Japan. I pressed the rear part of the bearing in but will the axle at full tightness to torque spec pull it in the rest of the way? I ask because I’ve never done a wheel bearing before so I’m kinda nervous to drive the car after doing this lol
You should ideally have the hub pulled all the way through both races as shown in the video before putting in the axle. When done properly, you should bot be able to move the hub up and down. Basically if you grab the studs and pull up and down and there is still some play in the assembly, you likely didn't tighten it enough. When torqued properly, the axle may finish the job, but not always.
Refer to 14:55 to see play in the assembly and 15:20 for once it was full tight. When installing the axle if you don't have a large enough torque wrench, depending on the spec usually standing on a breaker bar at X distance from the socket based on your weight can get you there. Make sure you stake that nut! Hope this helps.
@@802Garage I appreciate it I think I’m good everything seems to match up to what your saying. Drive on it no weird noises. And no more squeak like before when the old bearing went bad! Thanks your video helped alot
About to do this job on my 02. I've heard that a worn hub can also CO tribute to the humming that's associated to a blown bearing. Do you know anything about this? Also, any tips with diagnosing which corner has the bad bearing? Not too confident with guessing the rear passengers and I don't have a lift to get under it while it's in gear. Thanks
Well a worn hub can contribute to noise as well as prematurely wear a bearing. Essentially if it is not straight/true, it's going to cause some vibration and harmonic imbalance. It's not a bad idea to replace the hubs when you replace the bearings, but a lot of aftermarket hubs aren't as high quality as the OEM. As for guessing which bearing it is, mostly just listening. If you drive the car fast on pavement and turn back and forth slowly you should be ale to hear if it is coming from the front or rear and then try to isolate which side. The humming will get louder and quieter as you shift the weight of the car. Generally whichever side of the car is on the outside of your turn, as in if you are turning right and the weight has shifted to the left side of the car, if it gets louder then likely the left bearing is bad and vice versa. The other way to check is basically to jack up each corner and then grab the top and bottom of the wheel/tire and push in and out. If the wheel has a lot of play and you can see the hub moving, your bearing is very worn. Also if you jack up a corner and spin the wheel by hand and you hear a lot of noise, another good indicator. Though sometimes that can be brake pads dragging or something, but you should be able to tell the difference. As another note, the rear bearings on these cars are much harder to change than front, mostly if you try to get the lateral link bolt out. Some people suggest taking off the inner bolts on the subframe instead. I actually started to make a tutorial on the rear and had to trash it because I encountered issues. Still want to in the future. Also in the rear you have to put the inside inner race in the outer race before you press it in and you should put the outside inner race in place and the outside seal, then press the hub through both inner races at the same time. Just a last note because if you do it exactly like in this tutorial you will end up having to press the outer race back out like I have before, hah.
*INSTALLATION NOTE:* While this procedure works, I advise installing the large outer race in the knuckle, putting both inner races with bearings in place, installing the outer seal, then pressing the hub through the entire assembly. This lets you make sure the outer seal is fully seated. Please let me know if you have any issues. Thank you!
Please read the full description to get the most out of the information provided. This is the shorter version of this tutorial which I was able to cut down by over 25 minutes to save you time while still including the complete repair.
Check out the longer version of this video here ua-cam.com/video/WT_3Bxjnnbk/v-deo.html and let me know if you like having the option to watch a long and detailed or short and concise version.
I welcome any feedback or critiques. That includes methods for performing the repair as well as filming and editing. I really appreciate any comments.
If you have any questions, definitely ask and I will try to reply promptly. I really hope this helps you all out. Please like and subscribe if you appreciated the video.
THANK YOU!
Wow! Suddenly shot past 1,000 views. Thank you so much everyone! Really hope this has been helpful. As always, let me know if you have any questions or comments and let me know if this was useful.
@@802Garage Its helped me decide to get somebody else to do it... great vid.
@@wittohasago A valid choice! Thanks. :)
@@802Garage hey I just watched another video that said the 2006 Subaru Liberty wagon as most most after 2000 models have a wheel bearing hub assy and its far easier to do by the look if things... thx man.... time to take the wheels off and have a look.
@@wittohasago Yes the 2005+ Legacy/Liberty has bolt in front and rear bearings. They require no specialty tools provided they aren't severely rusted in and are much easier to change. You're in luck!
There should be an international law which mandates sealed one-piece hub/bearing units.....
I should add that law should have been made decades ago.
Thanks for the video. It has helped tremendously.
Hahaha, tell me about it! Sooo much easier. These aren't so bad after doing a few though.
Subaru has now switched to all sealed bolt in units AFAIK, though there may be a few hold overs in the front.
Please let me know if you need any other tips or advice or you encounter any issues!
802 Garage great vid,i have 98 legacy,shop says hub assembly 650$ is this vid showing replacing the hub assembly or just the bearing? can i buy the hub assembly with bearings included and do a easier job or different job than your vid shows? i have zero knowledge about mechanics but have some tools and time,thanks
❤
I commend your effort but I found it so much easier to take the hub to a shop to remove and press in the bearing for $20. This sort of effort is for young people without bad knees and back. Great video and instruction.
If you have a shop that will do it for $20 and it's nearby, by all means! For a lot people you won't find a shop to do it for less than a half hour rate or they just don't bother.
Part of why I made this vid is so many others said to take it to a shop. The advantage here too for the front specifically is not worrying about disrupting the alignment. I also just like to do my own work and I have had a shop screw up a bearing pressing before.
I hear you on the knees and back though, even if I'm still fairly young, it's a pain. Will be a lot less up and down when I get a lift! Appreciate the view and comment. :)
I got quoted $600/wheel to do bearings by a local shop recently. I bought the parts and the tools to do the job for around $350. If you ha e the time to figure it out for yourself, you can save a lot of money. This video has been my companion through the whole thing. Thanks for making it!
Just gone done, four hours. Not bad for me and my first time, that slide hammer is a peach, the press kit is all that and a bag of chips. Thanks for the walk through , you made me buy some tools but the satisfaction of knowing how to do the job and being able to do it myself was worth it. Great tutorial.
Eyyy that's awesome thanks a lot for the comment! Takes me about 3-4 hours on a really rusty hub and def took me that long my first few times, so good deal. Nice thing is those tools pay for themselves after 1 or 2 uses easily. :D
I did the same bearing change today!!! without the same tool kit, just a threaded bar and other accessories!! thanks for your teaching! God bless you greatly!
Hey, just saw your comment. Thanks a lot. :)
Helped me a bunch on my 99 Subaru Legacy Outback. Rented the tools from Autozone and bought a new hub / bearing & seals at O'rileys. Took 2-3 hours. Total cost $120 and some change. Could have saved money if I reused the hub but I didn't have a way of getting the old bearing off so I decided it would be easier to replace that too. Oh and the tool rentals were $260 but I got that back when I returned them. Was much easier then I had thought. Thank you very much.!
Really glad to help! My method for getting the race off the old hub now is to use a Dremel with a cutting wheel to cut a slit, then just use any metal chisel to get it to crack and slide it off. It's surprisingly easy. It's definitely a job you can save a ton of money on by doing it yourself. The tools I have linked only amount to about $150-200 if you plan on doing it a lot in the future. Hope it lasts for you! Save even more if you buy the parts on Rock Auto and Amazon. All told doing a front bearing on this car probably cost me $60 or so.
Thanks buddy.
Very nice video. If you are not an experienced mechanic, this video shows you quite a few nice tricks which can come in handy on other jobs.
I try to include as much useful info as I can in my tutorial videos. So much mechanical knowledge translates across many jobs. Thanks a ton!
As a fellow DiY "Shadetree" Mechanic, I applaud your effort(s) to save yourself some money and ingenuity at accomplishing the task!
😉👍
Thanks! Over time I've gotten better at this procedure as well and can save some time. Want to make an updated video, but don't want to replace a wheel bearing for no reason. Also, using these hand tools is the correct procedure for rear Subaru bearings per a service bulletin. Helps ensure they are pressed in evenly and not damaged. I figure it's better for the fronts too. 😁 Much appreciate the comment!
Nice job. Included the relevant details. I once watched a vid on replacing the alt where the guy showed a shot of it before working on it, then another after he had replaced it. Nothing in-between. That was fantastic.
Wow, that's awful! That's a big part of why I made this video. I was tired of tutorials that said "Take your hub to a shop to get the old bearing pressed out and the new bearing pressed in." Like, no. I want to do it myself. Thanks a lot!
I just did my 11, and I am so thankful for bearing assemblies.
Bolt in makes it a lot easier! Until the hub ring gets stuck in the knuckle, hahaha.
Hey man by far the best how to change an axle in a Subaru video on UA-cam thanks for all the little tricks really appreciate it I’ve got a 98 legacy outback I’m getting ready to do !! save me so much time thanks
Very welcome! It's definitely a less intimidating job once you have seen it done. If you have issues popping the ball joint check out my ball joint trick videos. Everything else is pretty easy.
@@802Garage will do my friend
I’m Kyle from mountain grove Missouri just so you know that you efforts are getting out there and it is much appreciated
@@kyleburney6059 Thank you!
Agreed! Best how-to on Subie bearing install - clearly shows the three separate pressing actions needed!
you dont need to remove the pinion to remove the axle. remove the two bolts on shock after you mark the top one. the after the axle nut is off hammer it out if needed and swing the pinion out of the way of the axle. pounch out axle pin slide it all out.
I logged in just so I could like the video. Very clear; very helpful. Great job editing.
Thanks a lot! Hope my future tutorials will be even better. :)
Just changed my wheel baring on my Subaru with the help of your video. Excellent video thank you for making it!!
Thank you very much! Glad it was helpful.
Thanks for the vid. I did the job today and wouldn't have been able to without your tutorial. A bearing splitter was essential to me getting the inner race off the hub. It was so tight that the race actually cracked in the removal process. I ground that race out with a Dremel to use it as the spacer to push the new race onto the hub
Fantastic to hear it! Thanks for the comment. A bearing splitter is the preferred tool for removing the race really. I had bought one to make this video, but it was too small and the larger ones were pricey. You actually want the race to crack, becomes much easier to remove. I prefer to use a Dremel with a cutting wheel now. Make a very fine slit almost all the way down to the hub, smack with a chisel to crack it, and then it comes off easy. Hope the bearing lasts you a long time!
@@802Garage good tip! I'll do that next time.
@@crisismcnoodle No problem! It's important not to damage the hub surface, but even if you do cut into it a tiny bit, it will be totally fine. :)
Very smooth instructional video. Kind of gives off ChrisFix vibes, but calmer and smoother
Ah well thank you! I hope I've only improved with time, but I need to make more tutorials. :D
Really well done. I had a near miss recently where i just had to replace a sticking caliper, and was considering possibly having to do this job (only ever held the light for my dad on a bearing job when young). Your video is good enough to convince me I won't be attempting this unsupervised anytime soon! A man has to know his strengths, weaknesses, and his tool and handy junk laying around inventory!
Ugh, those calipers just love to stick don't they! Suck a pain to diagnose and then typically end up replacing.
This is quite a big job, but if you are methodical it's not too easy to mess up. The last part is the scariest, you really want everything pressed fully together.
It will definitely save you a lot of time though just to have a shop press it out and in.
If you feel up to it you can always remove the entire knuckle instead and bring it somewhere.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
I have a tip for you pressing the inner race onto the hub. Take the race from the old hub and grind it out from the inside using a drill press and a stone point or grinding wheel. Just bring the table up so you can slide the race around the spinning tool easily. Make sure it has a good gap before you try fitting that on the hub spindle or it will get stuck.
Great idea! Almost exactly what I did actually. I just happened to have an old race for another vehicle around that was slightly larger. For everyone else doing this though, that should work well.
I just did this EXACT repair on a 99 legacy. Same hub kit. Works awesome 👍, My hub was unusable do to wear on the surface and i ended up blowing a new bearing, second inner race was loose 😫. For $30 extra it is definitely peace of mind plus you get new studs.
Interesting! I haven't encountered that problem with a hub yet, but obviously you should ideally be checking some tolerances. My main concern with buying replacement hubs is most of the aftermarket definitely are not as good as OEM. Thinned faces and lower quality studs etc. Some are quite good though. The Dorman seem nice for the money. Thanks for the comment! Sorry you had to redo the job.
Excellent video. I was in doubt when I started working on extracting the bearings until I watched your video twice. Big thank you!!!
Thank you! Glad to help.
Well done. I appreciate your willing to learn and teach, and edit correction (correct names of parts). Names don’t matter when you do it right, but you did both 🤙
Thanks very much! I like to be technically correct, haha. I still want to make an updated better version of this. Maybe someday!
GREAT job with the camera, your speech is clear and easy to understand.
Thanks so much for that feedback! I tried really hard to get good angles and not mangle my speech, hah. Hopefully future tutorials will be even better as I practice more and get better equipment.
It is a pleasure watching this man work.
Many thanks!
Top video ! Well done. Contemplating this job on my 09 Forester. Trying to foresee the problems. I’ve changed control arms, drop links and knuckles 2 years ago, so I’m hoping things come apart easier this time. Salty roads during norwegian winters are my worst enemy 😆
Oh boy, salt in Vermont kills everything! My body panels are all rust. Good luck and let me know if you need any help.
Best video I found, thanks. Also found it funny how you were correcting yourself the whole time, even tho I knew what you were talking about.😁 Thanks again👍👍👍
Thank you very much! I wasn't quite as confident in my presentation back then. Sometimes I want to do an updated version of this, but I still need to make a back bearing tutorial first.
Quick note on this one BTW, I recommend now that people install the outside inner race and the outside seal and press the whole assembly together at the same time. See my pinned comment.
Excellent explanation. Your tips about cleanliness and part orientation were very appropriate.
Thanks, I really appreciate the feedback! Making sure no grit is in that new bearing is super important, and I hate it when how tos don't show you the little details like seal orientation. There is even more detail in the long version, but I figured this covers the most important stuff. :)
About to take the plunge and change out the hub. Bearing change is a given since I have to change the hub. initial job was to replace the front CV axle but the axle would not slide out of the hub unit. I used a 3 jaw screw jack puller, then a hydraulic 3 jaw puller, and finally a sledge hammer and that only made it worse by mushrooming the end. Yes, I did have the other end of the shaft removed before I started hammering away and still no joy. I will have to remove the knuckle to disassemble the CV joint then make another attempt to remove the stuck shaft in the hub. If all that fails, I'll just go to a junk yard and get another knuckle and hub assembly.
Freezing the Cup (Outer ring) was spot on! Lubricating the mating surfaces was also an excellent tip. Reduces friction and ease of installation. Lubricating the hub OD to the bearing bore also a good tip. I would of used machine tool oil (air tool oil) instead of grease. Less messy and when seating the bearing to the hub shoulder there is less of a chance of grease creating back pressure and the bearing cup and/or cone not being properly seated. I will attempt to heat the bearing cone and roller assembly using an induction heater. I'll use a direct contact temp probe or temp stick to monitor the temperature so as not to over temp the bearing. Since it already comes pre-lubed, the temperature should not affect the grease much. As long as the grease is quality. The Timken bearing you demo does come with quality grease so no issue there.
If I didn't get another knuckle, I'll have to reinstall the knuckle and use the side hammer method to remove the hub and bearing from the knuckle. and follow the rest of your tutorial which is excellent. Checking end play on the bearing was critical and glad you showed the what that looked liked by the movement of the hub to the knuckle. Over tighten (preloading) the bearing can also reduce bearing life.
Will update post and let you know how it all went
Ah I'm sorry I meant to reply to this right away! Sometimes those axles get insanely seized like that. Such a pain. I have been lucky to never have one that bad. Always grease your axle splines when you install them so that doesn't happen in the future!
Freezing any press fit parts always makes life easier, hah. Machine tool oil would work for lubrication too. The main reason I use grease is actually to make absolutely sure it doesn't rust together in the future. I always plan on doing a job again, since I make my cars last.
I do hear you on not wanting to create a hydraulic lock though. In this case I assumed there would be enough room for all the grease to escape and squeeze out. Still a good point though and something to watch out for. Sometimes I'm heavy handed with grease.
I really want an induction heater for breaking bolts free, hah. Would be nice for press fit parts too. Just cooling the hub should honestly be enough. I usually find that part of the pressing much easier than pressing in the bearing cup. Usually not much resistance.
Also a note on that if you didn't read it in the pinned comment. I recommend putting the outside roller into the knuckle first, installing the outer seal so you know it's flush, putting the rear roller in, and then pressing the hub through both rollers at once.
I wish I had shown that method in this video since sometimes the outside seal will be very hard to press in with the hub in the way. I may even make an updated tutorial in the future. Not the end of the world, but obviously we all want a well installed seal for long life!
Do let me know if you get yours all sorted out. :)
finally got around to doing mine. ended up just removing the knuckle and having a mechanic press the old hub/bearing out and new ones in for $40. only like 30 minutes of labor on my part. this is one of the few things i'd say you're better off paying someone else to do
Yeah $40 isn't too bad if you could do the knuckle removal and all yourself. Some people want to charge more which is ridiculous. Personally I've had great results doing it myself and both bearings on this car are still going many tens of thousands of miles later after I changed them. Plus this way it doesn't change alignment. I totally hear you though, def a job it can be worthy paying a bit to have someone do. Thanks for the comment!
Good video. If you plan to get a front end alignment, which you might as well just take off the last two fasteners that hold the hub to the strut and set the entire hub on a bench. Use an airgun to turn the hub press bolt it won't hurt the inner hub surface. I use a threaded rod from Home Depot and series of large washers that I've collected over the eyars. Works great.
Yep great DIY solution! Alignments have gone up to $75 minimum in my area so I try to avoid it. I don't mine using an impact to take out the old race, but I definitely prefer using hand tools to press all new bearing components in. Thanks for the comment. :)
You shouldn’t put anti seize on axle nuts brother. Otherwise great tutorial. Very concise.
Appreciate the input, but in Vermont we put anti seize on EVERYTHING. Hahaha. The axle nut gets staked so it's all good. But obvs check and use caution and digression. Thanks!
thank you so much for your video, I was able to keep my 20 year old Baja alive thanks too you
Very welcome! I love the Baja.
"If you're going to do this without a bearing press you're going to need some specialty tools, one being this bearing press..." okay lol
Hahaha I know I could have worded it better. What I meant is without a literal press, a floor/bench mounted hydraulic press. They are pricey and you have to remove the knuckle from the car. This is actually the dealer service procedure though!
@@802Garage haha, yeah I figured as much, I just had to say something. Laughed my ass off though, thanks!
@@jw99439 Hahaha glad to hear it.
That's not even what he said.. but oK LOL
@Kris Mcnugget rent them for free at an autoparts store
Best video for Subaru wheel bearing replacement I've seen yet. Thank you very much.
Much appreciated!
Very good camera work, narration, and explanations! Thank you so much.
Hope it helps! Thank you very much for the comment. I should be doing a rear wheel bearing tutorial soon too.
Just stopping to say this helped me replace my bearings on my 98 Subaru . Hoping for the best :) thank you . And yeah I just cut the old bearing race and used it as a spacer ;)
Awesome I love to hear it!
Used on 02 wrx, hub assembly looked identical so this was very helpful. Excellent walkthrough as well easy to understand
Glad to hear it. Yep exactly the same other than ABS.
I love how you corrected yourself all the way through😂😂😂
Well if I do something wrong, everyone needs to know. Not like I can redo certain steps. :P
Thanks for commenting.
Done a dozen wheel bearings but never had to do a pressed one. Ordered the Amazon press and gunna tackle this today hopefully
They aren't too bad. Used to be a lot more common. They can actually be easier than bolt on units because when those puppies seize in the knuckle they can be a nightmare. Please read the pinned comment for the install note about the seals and assembly order. :)
One of the best instruction video I ever seen... Nice job...
Thanks a lot! Just make sure you read the pinned comment. 😁
One of the best videos on bearing replacement I've seen. Should I get an alignment afterwards?
Wow! Thank you so much! That was actually my exact goal, to make a better tutorial on how to do this without a press than the others available.
With this process you should not need an alignment. That's one of the main benefits of not taking the knuckle off the car. That said, it's always a good idea to get an alignment periodically.
Please check out the full description to links for the best deals on the tools used!
Agreed. I'm doing it with a press, but the other videos skip over important parts and challenges. Solid job with the video as well. I agree you don't need an alignment if you leave it on the car. That was my plan, but I had to drill out the pincher bolt on the knuckle, so I had to take it off. If you take it off, you can mess up your camber if you don't put your top bolt back to where it was (many people mark it with a metallic pen, I just scratch a line in it).
Yeah, marking it should get you close enough. Bummer about the pinch bolt. Been there multiple times! I have drilled it out on the car. Also had the clamp break due to a long time forming crack once, had to replace the whole knuckle.
Well, I did end up replacing the whole knuckle, but in retrospect, I think I could've just drilled a slightly larger hole, and ran a new bolt through it, but I wasn't sure if that would be 100% safe. Drilling it on the car, now that's genius level. Smarter not harder they say ;)
Well on one way yes, but it also makes drilling harder, especially if you have a drill press.
Very commonly people just drill out the old bolt abd put a new bolt in with a nut on the other side. Just have to grind the back side flat a bit for the nut and washer.
Ended up having to do it on I think both knuckles in my '93. Plenty safe as long as you don't drill the hole needlessly large and the knuckle is in good shape.
I always pack the hell out of everything with grease after so it doesn't corrode so fast too. Always easier the second time I do it! XD
Great job i just have one recommendation find your self an old or cheap area style rug or scrap piece of carpet the dimesions dnt really matter but it sure beats droping screws/ nuts / bolts in the dirt or grass or even when working under the car it sure beats rolling around in the dirts or grass& geeting stones in the back🤓other then tht i like your style!
Hahaha great advice and I totally agree! I often work on this weird woven plastic mat I have. Really not sure where it was in this video. I finally have the garage clean enough to do more work inside though! Thanks a bunch.
Solid video, great job explaining all the little steps and hang-ups someone might expect!
Thank you! Hoping to make a rear wheel bearing video at some point too. Should be even better with how much I've learned. Appreciate the comment!
Great video. It has helped me to make the decision to do this job myself. The rather large estimate from the repair shop helped as well...
Yeah for sure! Some places want way too much money. The process varies slightly for front and rear, just let me know if you need any advice.
I finally got around to replacing my wheel bearing (and CV axle) yesterday. This video helped a ton! I basically followed it to the letter.
I do have one issue that I'd like to ask you about. When I got the hub and bearings all pressed back together and gave it a turn, it gives off a slight squealing noise. It doesn't sound horrible, just a little annoying. While driving with the window down it is very quiet and more like a whistle.
The Timken bearing I purchased came with both bearing halfs already assemblied inside the outer race. I decided to press the entire thing into the knuckle, which I did. But then I noticed the little protective plastic ring on the very inside, when I went to pull it out both bearings exploded out and landed on the ground. I closely examined them for any contamination or loss of grease, but I think they looked fine, and landed in a mostly clean way. Though maybe this is the reason it makes noise. I then proceeded to press them together separately just as you did.
Do you think the noise is much to worry about? Might it cause any damage beyond just having to replace the bearing again? Maybe it'll go away after a bit (like that ever happens...)? I figured the bearings itself are cheap enough I'll just buy a new one if I end up having to redo it.
Nice trick for the ball joint. I couldn't find a round end wrench that fit quite right, but that led me to a better solution. I own one of these amzn.to/2ihNafO . The tool itself is not so great, but it does have a nice solid tapered metal handle. I lifted from below the ball joint, hammered it in as a wedge, and then dropped the lift.
I was also able to use the old inner race, cut off the hub, to press on the new race, instead of a bigger one that you used. Just make sure you cut it completely and get it spread out a bit so it comes off easy.
Thanks!
Ouch! That's a bummer about the bearings coming out. I should have mentioned the plastic retaining ring in this video.
The issue with pressing the entire bearing in with all three pieces together is that you are pressing the outer bearing half into the outer race, which can mar the surface slightly. It's not typically a big issue I think. That said, you could easily have gotten a small piece of debris into the bearing too, which hopefully at some point will stick itself out of the way and not be an issue.
As long as the noise gets better and not worse, you should be alright. Just keep an eye one it. At worst you would have to replace the bearing again. It would only cause more damage if you let it get so bad that the bearing locked up or fell apart. Also just make sure there is absolutely no lateral movement in your hub, as that would indicate it wasn't 100% pressed together.
Nice job on improvising for the ball joint. Anything sturdy and metal should do. It's a fantastic trick though, can save tons of time and beating on metal.
When I used the old race from the hub to try and press on the new one, it just couldn't go in far enough without something else pressing on it. Glad it worked out for you.
Perfect tutorial! 10/10 even w the nut/bolt debacle
Thank you very much! :D
I bought both these bearing kits on Ebay delivered for a just little less than $100 ( my hammer is gray not chrome) so those on the fence about tool expense don't let that stop you.
Thanks for that input! I do try to periodically update my links in the description with cheap options. I should add some from eBay!
Hi thanks for the good video just did mine on the back of my Subaru use gear puller to pull off the inner race instead of cutting it it just pops off very easy with gear puller..
If you have one yes definitely!
Great camera angles, clear explanation, absolutely wonderful video my dude! It's been a while since I've done mine and I appreciate you making this video so I can use it as a refresher! You just earned a like and new subscriber :)
Hey thanks a lot! Really appreciate comments like this. I still need to do an updated version to make it even better.
@@802Garage You're welcome, brother! This video helped me do my wheel bearing on my 1991 legacy quick af, it's pretty damn good!
@@whyareallnamestaken69 Love to hear it! I have a 91 Legacy wagon I am turbocharging for fun later this year if all goes well. I already have most of the parts. :)
Please make a video! I'd watch anything with those first gen legacies!@@802Garage
Great video, an easier way that i do now is just get the bearing preloaded then you can put the whole bearing in then the hub into it, instead of pressing all the races together.
Thank you and agreed! I actually noted that in my pinned comment. I realized later you can leave the plastic retainer in place as long as your bolt fits through it. Makes life easier. :D
Wish I would of seen this video yesterday I had a hell of a time with that job CV axle and wheel bearing
Sorry about that! The more you know.
The official car of the Green Mountains....nice video:)
Thanks a lot! Changed both fronts, going strong for over a year now. Just upgraded to a cheap 2004 WRX though!
good easy to follow video no problems when i did mine
Thank you very much for the comment! Glad it helped.
Great video! I can't find an auto parts store that loans out the bearing press like the one you used. I hate to buy one for a one time use but guess I will unless I can find a machine shop that will press it on for me. Again though, great video and taught me a lot. Thanks Billy
Sorry I never saw this comment. Hope you got the bearing sorted out! It is a pain to buy a pricey tool you will only use once.
Same process for a 02 legacy l I assume? Love how you do this without undoing the camber bolts and other parts....nice work!
That's why I like this procedure as well! Does not alter alignment. Same exact procedure on an 02 Legacy. You rear bearing is bolt in though. Do see my installation note in the pinned comment. Thanks. :)
Thanks for listing the link for the bearing press set. Good video; made doing my car easier.
Wonderful to hear! Super glad it helped. Any tips or issues you encountered?
Awesome video very helpful, too much work for me. I'm taking the hub off and putting it on a press
If you have a press available it's definitely a good option. Personally I don't find this to be too much more work and it's oddly satisfying. Plus the big bonus is not having to worry about alignment. Again though, totes use a press if you have it!
I definitely understand why he left it on the car, but I’m thinking there just those two more bolts, I would’ve took that knuckle off and took it in. You would have to pay for the alignment which is true.
Awesome video man! Thank you so much for the info! Was worried of this install prior to watching😊
Very welcome! Please read the installation note in the pinned comment just for the best results.
Nice video man. On your installation note, you are basically saying to push the bare hub through all other components, which are installed in the knuckle? Have we decided it won't damage the outside set of rollers that would be smashed against the outer race as the hub gets pressed through it? Not criticizing, just making sure I understand what you are saying.
Doing shocks, wheel bearings, CV axles, ball joints and maybe tie rods on my 03 Fozzy in the next few weeks. Just wanna be sure I understand so I am not watching vids and reading comments with greasy ass hands
Right. So remove the old inner race from the hub, or use a new hub. Press the new outer race into the knuckle. Place the outside inner race into the knuckle, and press in the new outer seal. This is the main difference as it allows you to make sure the seal is in properly. Then place the inside inner race into the back side of the knuckle, and press the hub through both at the same time like in the video. You can also leave the hub in the freezer as before to shrink it a bit.
It will not damage either set of rollers. You can actually leave the bearing fully assembled and press it in place and then press the hub through. It's how you have to do the rear, because the inside inner race cannot pass through the back of the knuckle. Google "MSA5TT0201" and you'll find the installation guide update for bearings that should clear up any questions. No criticism detected no worries! I actually wish I could update this tutorial a bit. Maybe someday soon.
Good luck with the Forester and let me know if you have any other questions! I will warn you that the rear wheel bearings are likely to be a massive pain due to the long bolt rusting solid. I'm sure you've heard of the issue. I actually started to film a rear tutorial and got held up by said issues. Hoping to make one in the near future.
Wicked bad very slick that’s why you’re the slick boss I could make a lot of money 💴 in Jamaica 🇯🇲 with those tools 🧰
Excellent no b.s. presentation , straight to the task , thanks.
This is a great video. I’m about to do this this week
Thanks! Please read the pinned comment for an installation note and let me know if you have any questions. It got unpinned somehow, but should be there now.
Awesome video, just always be careful with certain torque specs and when to hand wrench it
Agreed! Feel is also very important.
i dont have a car and i like to watch mecanics video on youtube .my uncle and i used to do mecanics job like brake pad galipper brake line exhaust timing belt engine tranny swap . the only thing i have not done my self is play inside an engine like changing a piston i let uncle do this stuff 😃 .
I've def watched a ton of mechanics videos on jobs I'll likely never do! Haven't gotten into engine building myself, but want to soon. Sorry I didn't see this until now.
when there was no mechanic available to do this job before the weekend, i replaced the bearing myself using your tutorial. I did not want to buy slide hammer so i bolted an old brake disc in a way the disc has more offset and then i used standard hammer just banging the disc ..
Awesome! I have def seen people do the whole job with just a hammer. Totally legit way to take the old one out. I only worry about hammering the new bearing in, though it can be done safely. Glad the tutorial helped!
@@802Garage i got the set of the bushes shown in the vid, just didn't get the slide hammer so the new bearing is well treated;). Great trick to take out the ball joint, no slamming nor burning it like in the other videos... Cheers!
@@salsarriba5695 Oh awesome! That's the most important part of install IMO. One reason I like using these tools is you can feel if there is resistance. A lot of times when people use a press it just forces it and they can damage something.
I looove that ball joint trick. Has saved me so much time. Be sure to pass it on! Haha. Thanks again for the comments. :)
I like your helpful attitude and informative comments, and I suspect you will have no follow-on trouble. Nice audio/video production too.
But I'm worried about the example your tools and techniques set for the audience. Having performed a few of these myself (starting with the identical tools and techniques you used) I'm worried that you did so many operations blind (no clear line of sight, trusting by feel or inspecting afterward), using no torque wrench (to reinstall precisely), and cutting/chiseling the inner race (hazardous to the hub integrity).
I felt better after I graduated to removing those 2 lower strut bolts so the hub came off the vehicle and could be rebuilt in good light using a floor press instead of the slide hammer and bolt/nut that came with the pressure plate set. With a bearing separator I didn't even need to cut the inner race to press it off. With a torque wrench I knew the hub was reassembled into the vehicle more precisely.
Hey Mike! Thanks a lot for the comment. Really appreciate the feedback. I agree with you that making sure this is done correctly is important. I would advise anyone who is weary to watch many tutorials and if they don't feel comfortable, take it to a shop instead. To be honest though, many mechanics will use similar techniques to do the job, and some not nearly as carefully.
This is definitely the most complex tutorial on my channel and probably will be for quite some time. Even changing a timing belt can take less time. You'll note that I have a long version of the tutorial which actually goes into even more detail and shows more steps and checking than this one does. Just wanted to mention that first off, since I figured people of varying experience levels might be looking and want more or less detail and it may address a few of your concerns.
As for working blind as you said, I have always been taught that a lot of mechanical work is done by feel as opposed to visually. For example, when tightening the races all the way together or when pressing in a new seal, visually it make look like they are fully together when in fact there is a very small gap. Working by feel when the pressure on the bolt actually changes for example, will give you a better indicator. Plus, unlike a shop press, you can better feel when it is fully seated rather than just listening for when a machine struggles.
Part of the reason I do everything manually instead of with an impact gun like many people, is it gives you a far better indicator of how complete a step is. I had a mechanic press a bearing together for me years ago and it was completely loose and floppy because he did it with impact tools and didn't actually check by hand. The problem with using a torque wrench as opposed to doing it by feel is that if by chance there is debris or a nick in one of the components, it may get hung up when pressing together and the torque wrench will give a false finish indication.
As for cutting off the race, I definitely would have preferred to have a bearing separator. I actually bought one, but it was too small. Unfortunately decent ones add extra cost. I've found using a Dremel with a cutting wheel makes cracking the race very quick and easy and low chance of nicking the hub. If very concerned, I'd always recommend replacing the hub anyways. I just wanted to save money. In terms of sight, I still visually and by feel double check every step of the process, just as I would off the car.
I hope I'm not ranting too much, and I'm in no way trying to say what you recommend isn't valid. Tone is hard to communicate on the internet, but believe me I appreciate your thoughts. Basically, the methods in this video assume that people will understand enough to know the risks involved. This is really a technique to save some time and money and avoid needing an alignment as well.
I certainly never want to steer anyone wrong or put them in danger, but I do believe this is a proper and complete process to perform the replacement. Even if in my case specifically I cut a few corners to save money, such as reusing the hub and not having a bearing separator. The only thing I might change in the future is placing the seal in before pressing the hub into both races.
It has been over a year since I did the replacement on both sides and no noise yet! Plus I have done bearings for others that are going strong. Thanks again for your comment.
I just did one front bearing on an 01 forester. I put both bearing in the hub then pressed on the hub as you advised in the comments .The bearing failed in 2 days .i thought it was defective parts but ive seen your way and the way i did mine .
First of all, what brand of bearing did you use? Second, there are several potential issues here. The first and most likely would be that you did not press the hub all the way through both inner bearing races. If you used a plate that was slightly too large it may have hung up on the knuckle itself and not fully pressed through. Then if torquing the axle nut on did not draw it through the rest of the way, that would have resulted in a loose bearing. Another option is that you somehow pressed on the outside of the back inner bearing which will damage the cage and potentially dislodge rollers. It's also possible something was off angle when you started pressing and you forced past it. I am not criticizing you at all by the way, I have no idea what happened just giving options. In general though, if you did press the hub all the way through both inner bearings, which would mean without the axle installed there should be absolutely no in and out play of the hub and you should not be able to rock it up and down at all either, then there is no way the bearing should have failed in 2 days unless there was a sealing issue and all of the grease escaped. This can happen if you forget a seal, obviously, or if one is damaged during installation, or not fully pressed in. That last reason is the main reason I suggested the alternate method in the pinned comment, because the way I showed, it was not guaranteed to press the outer seal in all the way without for example using a screwdriver around it to press it in the rest of the way. Even if a seal was slightly loose, I would be surprised if it lost enough grease to fail in a couple days. The other option, which is extremely common, is that you did not torque the axle nut enough, or that it was not staked enough and it started to back out and loosened up enough to allow the bearing to become damaged. I have seen this happen many times, including by shops. A friend recently had a shop replaced there wheel bearing and they did not stake the axle nut and it came loose and destroyed the bearing. They sent me pictures and I was able to demonstrate this was the case and the shop replaced it for free because they are the ones who screwed up. I am very sorry this happened to you and I hope it was not an error of my guide that caused the issue, but I hope this comment helps you figure it out. Basically, not pressing the hub all the way through and/or inadequately twerking or staking the axle nut allowing a bearing to run while slightly loose is the most common reason it would fail quickly. The other common reasons are low quality aftermarket bearings, torque applied to one of the bearing races in a direction it should not have been or on the wrong part of one of the bearings, and grease sealing issues.
Saving this for later. Just starting to hear sand getting into the wheel bearing on my '03 outback.
Kick ass tutorial ! Thank you and be well. 👍🏼🇺🇸
Thanks you too!
Excellent video, my Subaru's turn is coming for this
Boo yah! The one bit of advice I usually give that's different than this video is it makes more sense to put in both inner bearings first, put in the outer seal, and press the hub through the whole assembly in one go. That way you know the outer seal is fully seated. Let me know if you have any issues!
@@802Garage Thanks for your video and responses to questions!
If you install the hub with the bearings in the knuckle (like you mentioned above), aren't you putting more stress on the outer roller bearing and its inner race as they will have to push back as you force the hub in? Probably if the hub shaft is well greased, the forces will be low? I agree it is better from the outer seal viewing though. I'm planning on replacing one front bearing on an 04 Forester XT very soon!
@@brianzacher7007 The quick answer is yes, it will apply some force to the rollers, and therefore to both race surfaces. However, it is not much more force than the bearing will see in regular use and should not be detrimental. This is actually the same as the updated Subaru recommended procedure for the rear bearings, where they also specifically state not to use a hydraulic press as to avoid sideward or excessive force. That's why this is my preferred procedure. Thank you for your comment!
Thanks for the video. The little details and warnings as you did this were VERY helpful.
No problem! Did you already do the job? One last thing I wish I had covered in this is that you can press the hub through both inner races at the same time with the outer seal already in place, so you know it is fully seated. This is actually how you have to do it for rear wheel bearings. Otherwise it can be difficult to get the outer seal fully seated with this procedure. Thanks for the comment and hope your car is well!
Good job with the video and the clear explanations! This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
You're welcome! Let me know if you have any questions. I appreciate the comment.
Video was great. I was able to hear every word clearly. Now to get the tools. THANKS
Great! Glad to hear it. I spent a ton of time on audio leveling. Hope the job goes well!
These are the tools I recommend right now:
amzn.to/2tufQtt
amzn.to/2u95htA
The OTC set is very high quality and has a multitude of uses.
The bearing tool kit is the same from any brand, that's just the cheapest price I can find right now.
Plus if you use these links, I can get a small commission from Amazon, so if you want to help me out I appreciate it.
Here are some other good options though:
amzn.to/2t0U0N5
amzn.to/2uttlGN
amzn.to/2t1goWY
amzn.to/2tzAVmH
Thanks again for the comment!
This is a great how-to. Unfortunately all of my local auto parts stores stopped carrying the kit to remove the outer race! Goodbye home mechanics.
That's really frustrating! There are no stores near me that rent tools, so I just bought them online. I put links to a lot of cheap options in the description, so check them out! If you do buy from a link, it will help support the channel too. No pressure at all though! Let me know if you have any questions in the future.
amzn.to/2rwe1JS That's the set I have and it's a decent price right now.
Also just wanted to note I do have a more detailed version of this tutorial if you by chance want to go more in depth.
ua-cam.com/video/WT_3Bxjnnbk/v-deo.html
I added that particular one, when I pull the trigger just cant afford it now, worked on my kids bugeye (owned by me) thought it might be a bad bearing but no play at 6/12 and no grinding turned out to be a piece of an old soda can jammed in the brakes from him thrashing it....
Glad to hear this may help out! I'm hoping I won't have to do bearings on my new to me blob eye WRX any time soon.
Well I’m glad I bought the Milwaukee impact gun, it took the axle nut off in about two seconds
Heck yeah. :D
Excellent video! Liked, subscribed, rolling drunks in the common to gather scratch for a tee shirt.
But I'm disappointed with the car:
only 228,000 miles and 𝒂𝒍𝒓𝒆𝒂𝒅𝒚 a
bearing goes bad?
[I blame the previous owner.]
Keep it up.
Hahaha many thanks really appreciate the comment! You should see my current daily. It's another 1993 Impreza that just passed 297,000 miles. I haven't had to do a bearing yet, but I only got it at 264,000 miles. ;)
Great video! Great instruction and editing! Thank you!
No problem at all. Really appreciate the comment!
I completed the bearing replacement today with the tools and instructions you gave in the video. My only concern is that after the hub is installed, the hub turns very hard. Is this because the outer oil seal is rubbing on the hub? and is this normal?
Ah, you may need to find a way to push the bearing seal in further like levering it around with a screwdriver until the face of the seal sits flush with the rim of the bearing housing in the knuckle. It's my one regret with this tutorial how I said to install that outer race before pressing in the hub as it's how I originally learned it. Please see the pinned comment. Otherwise it could be you don't have the bearing fully pressed together make sure you used a plate small enough on the back side that it didn't hit the retaining ring. As I noted at around 14:45. The hub should not wiggle up and down or side to side at all once fully installed. If it still has a little play when you reinstall the wheel, you may need to tighten the axle nut more to finish drawing it together and then final torque the axle nut before staking. Hope that all makes sense.
You are doing very good job 👏 you do right 👍👍
Thank you!
Man there are a lot of steps. I may be in over my head on doing this one. How long did it take?
It seems like a lot, but really it's very logical and procedural. It may take you 2-4h the first time, but it can be done much faster, especially if the car isn't rusty. Also check the pinned comment for my installation note. You can technically skips a few steps by keeping the 3 piece bearing together with the plastic retainer, putting the outer seal in first, then pressing the hub through it all in one step. Let me know if you have any questions.
Great video! I noticed your torque specs was 137 ft lbs, what year is your car? My 2004 outback calls for 162 ft lbs. I removed the knuckle and used a shop press. While I had mine apart, I replaced the wheel bearings, seals, struts, ball joints and axles on both sides. Look into a 24" handle on a 1/2" ratchet. It may help you out. Have a great day!
1993 Impreza. I should have mentioned that the later cars have a higher spec. I plan to make a new and better version of this tutorial at some point. Thanks!
I think it's awesome that you show how to do this job without a hydraulic press. I love my RedLine 50 ton press! But not everyone has access to them. If you remove the knuckle from the strut, match mark the upper bolt position as it's an eccentric bolt for the camber adjustment. You will want that to be put back in the exact same rotational position it came from. Keep up the great work!
@@richB666 Yep, that's part of why I like to do it without removing the knuckle and by popping the ball joint. Doesn't mess with the alignment. Also for the rear specifically, Subaru actually put out a service bulletin saying to use this procedure because many bearings were getting damaged when installed with a hydraulic press. I think mostly because people weren't aligning them properly or were using too much force after the bearing was already seated. So I like to use these tools in general. Nothing wrong with the press if you know what you are doing though.
Great job on the video and follow up in the description.
Thanks a lot! Glad someone reads the description. :D
Little bit of torch heat to the hub helps the race press through.
Agreed! Thanks for sharing.
How to remove a wheel bearing without a press, using a press... I seem to be missing something... Other than that I do love to see the ingenuity shown here.
Hydraulic was a really long word to put in the title. I'm talking about a standing shop press. Sorry for any confusion haha. A lot of people think you need one to do wheel bearings. Appreciate the comment. :)
Great video. Is it easier to install the c clip after pressing in the hub, before the inner seal?
It may be slightly easier to install the hub before the c-clip, but it shouldn't make a difference either way as long as you use the right sized press. :)
Great video! Which shop manual were you referring to for torque specs?
TBH I think I found the specs online and confirmed with multiple sources and screenshots of service manuals. I now have the full Subaru FSM for torque specs, but everything in this video should be accurate.
What year and make car is featured? I have a 2004 outback and right ball joint pinch bolt broke. I machined it out but thought there was a clearance issue and recessed the formerly threaded side down so it cracked when tightening the pinch bolt. Seems to have the same knuckle. Please verify what model and year ranges have the same set up you have in the video. Thank you.
Yep I have had that happen before. I usually verify parts fitment with parts.subaru.com your front knuckle is the same as any 00-04 Legacy or Outback, 03-06 Baja, 03-08 Forester, 02-07 Impreza. Good luck!
Strong skills, brother.
You don't happen to know the part numbers you used? Maybe I missed them in the video...
Thank you for making this video. My bearing just started making noise recently and was afraid I would need to take the knuckle to a shop to do it. Hopefully I could borrower a puller and or a bearing set and do this myself in the near future.
If you mean part numbers for the tools, I have links in the description!
The car parts I actually used in this video are these:
Bearing - amzn.to/2Bl44mf
Inner Seal - amzn.to/2iQgyuO
Outer Seal - amzn.to/2iPIYoJ
There are other options though, and these vary slightly by car, though mostly the same for 90s Subaru vehicles.
Yes. Thank you!
Sorry for delay, but you're welcome. :)
If you want to do this with out a press you’re gonna need some special tools like this press kit
😂😂😂 I meant a hydraulic press. Sorry.
Excellent!! Is it possible that you give us that subaru workshop manual? In my country it is not found and it is a formidable tool! I do most of the mechanics to my 1993 Subaru Legacy. Thanks so much!
So you need the service manual for a first generation Legacy? When I get home tomorrow I will try to find you a copy. 😁
@@802Garage guauuu!!! Wonderfull!! Thanks so much!!!
@@felipeacelass.4346 There is a link for the 1992 on this page. It should work for almost everything on your car. Let me know if it doesn't work for you for some reason and I'll find another option.
sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU
I did the same bearing change today!!! without the same tool kit, just a threaded bar and other accessories!! thanks for your teaching! God bless you greatly!
the torque on that axle nut varies model to model, my Forester is 165ftlbs.
I think 165 is the high end of the range for later model Foresters. Early models should be 137 +-14 ft lbs. I could be wrong though. Either way always best to double check for your specific car! Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@802Garage Well mine is a 1999 SF5. I agree that ppl should consult the manuals. They can be a bit tedious to find your way in for the impatient but its important to get these torque settings correct.
I absolutely agree. I'm the type to find the FSM online for any car I have an use all the correct torque specs on everything suspension and engine related. I almost always confirm the torque specs I find in videos, but I def didn't intend to steer anyone wrong, which is part of why I list the year and model in the description as well. Thanks again!
Wow super smoothe way! Thank you for sharing!
No problem! Thank you for commenting. :)
great help " worked like a charm" thanks B.C.
Glad to hear it! Thank you!
Great video thanks. Doing 03 Forester rear wheel bearing
I'm actually making the rear wheel bearing tutorial right now! There are a few key differences. Instead of the ball joint you have to remove the dreaded lateral link bolt. Spraying it for several days with penetrating lube will help you try to get it out without snapping. If you do end up breaking it, you can get the bolt, nut, and two washers from any dealer or I can send you an Amazon link to the kit. Also, the rear wheel bearing has three seals instead of two. It has one outer and two inner. Make sure you put them all back in with the right order and orientation. Lastly ans this is important, you must place the inside inner race inside of the outer race when you press it into the knuckle. You will not be able to put the inner race through the axle stub hole. Then you should put in the outside inner race and outer seal, then press the hub through both inner races at the same time. Hope that all makes sense. Let me know if you have any questions!
@@802Garage I actually was blessed by the Lord! After a few days of soaking the bolts I was able to get them moving back & forth with a 2 foot 1/2" breaker bar. I then hit it with impact gun while first applying lateral pressure with a screw driver. Once gap opened wife enough I put an open end wrench in their. Both sides spun out. I'm waiting on the be bearings & hubs to resemble. Thanks again. Without your video I wouldn't have had confidence to even start the job.
That's great! I unfortunately was not so lucky while filming my tutorial. I soaked mine for days and even heated the bolt several times and soaked it some more. The nut came off no problem, but the bolt just truly said no. Got it free inside of one bushing and from the knuckle. It was so seized in the other bushing though that it just started tearing the rubber instead of coming out, and at that point the bushing would absorb all the impact from my gun.
So basically I ended up with a ruined bolt that won't come out and a ruined bushing. I then realized I had two replacement knuckles for the rear of my car, with lateral links and control arms, all in much better shape than mine on the car. Plus, I have to replace the rear subframe anyways. So for now I'm just going to save the bearing and replace the entire rear end, hahaha.
Thanks again a ton for the comments!
Excellent explanation, thank you!
Thanks for the comment!
My inner and outer seals swapped places, normally I would go ahead and fix this but I have already pressed the bearing on the hub. Does that cause an issue? They are in the “right” orientation, just swapped places inner for outer and outer for inner
To be honest I'm not 100% sure what will happen. I think the lip isn't big enough for the outer seal to take place of the inner, or it's just missing the part that touches the axle face. So you'll likely have some premature moisture and dirt ingress. Worst case scenario is you'll have to replace the bearing sooner than normal, but if you took it apart you would have to anyways. So I'd just let it ride or pull the axle back out and put the correct inner seal in at least. Good luck!
Great job, from OZ thanks
Thanks for the comment!
Do you grease the bearing? Looks like it has some grease on it, but didn't see you pack it with grease.
They come already packed with grease. Instructions are not to add any grease. If you get a bearing that is not greased, which is very rare with this type, you are supposed to grease it of course. :)
This is an excellent tutorial.
Thank you! Happy to help.
This helped me with my 2001 Subaru Forester sti here in Japan. I pressed the rear part of the bearing in but will the axle at full tightness to torque spec pull it in the rest of the way? I ask because I’ve never done a wheel bearing before so I’m kinda nervous to drive the car after doing this lol
You should ideally have the hub pulled all the way through both races as shown in the video before putting in the axle. When done properly, you should bot be able to move the hub up and down. Basically if you grab the studs and pull up and down and there is still some play in the assembly, you likely didn't tighten it enough. When torqued properly, the axle may finish the job, but not always.
Refer to 14:55 to see play in the assembly and 15:20 for once it was full tight. When installing the axle if you don't have a large enough torque wrench, depending on the spec usually standing on a breaker bar at X distance from the socket based on your weight can get you there. Make sure you stake that nut! Hope this helps.
@@802Garage I appreciate it I think I’m good everything seems to match up to what your saying. Drive on it no weird noises. And no more squeak like before when the old bearing went bad! Thanks your video helped alot
@@Mprosen96 You're very welcome thanks for the comments!
About to do this job on my 02. I've heard that a worn hub can also CO tribute to the humming that's associated to a blown bearing. Do you know anything about this? Also, any tips with diagnosing which corner has the bad bearing? Not too confident with guessing the rear passengers and I don't have a lift to get under it while it's in gear. Thanks
Well a worn hub can contribute to noise as well as prematurely wear a bearing. Essentially if it is not straight/true, it's going to cause some vibration and harmonic imbalance. It's not a bad idea to replace the hubs when you replace the bearings, but a lot of aftermarket hubs aren't as high quality as the OEM.
As for guessing which bearing it is, mostly just listening. If you drive the car fast on pavement and turn back and forth slowly you should be ale to hear if it is coming from the front or rear and then try to isolate which side. The humming will get louder and quieter as you shift the weight of the car. Generally whichever side of the car is on the outside of your turn, as in if you are turning right and the weight has shifted to the left side of the car, if it gets louder then likely the left bearing is bad and vice versa.
The other way to check is basically to jack up each corner and then grab the top and bottom of the wheel/tire and push in and out. If the wheel has a lot of play and you can see the hub moving, your bearing is very worn. Also if you jack up a corner and spin the wheel by hand and you hear a lot of noise, another good indicator. Though sometimes that can be brake pads dragging or something, but you should be able to tell the difference.
As another note, the rear bearings on these cars are much harder to change than front, mostly if you try to get the lateral link bolt out. Some people suggest taking off the inner bolts on the subframe instead. I actually started to make a tutorial on the rear and had to trash it because I encountered issues. Still want to in the future.
Also in the rear you have to put the inside inner race in the outer race before you press it in and you should put the outside inner race in place and the outside seal, then press the hub through both inner races at the same time. Just a last note because if you do it exactly like in this tutorial you will end up having to press the outer race back out like I have before, hah.