Case Bound Book 5 The Case // Adventures in Bookbinding
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- Опубліковано 30 кві 2019
- Part 5 of a series on binding a rounded and backed case bound book. This video covers making the case; the cover of the book.
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DAS Bookbinding UA-cam Channel guide
dasbookbinding.com/2019/12/14...
The tools and materials I use can be purchased from specialist suppliers and manufacturers in my suppliers list. If you are in Australia I have a limited range of items I supply by mail or by pickup from the bindery in Brisbane.
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dasbookbinding.com/2020/03/27...
The #DASBookbinding Channel is the perfect starting point for learning #bookbinding. It covers foundation skills, simple projects, technical methods, materials and more advanced bookbinding projects. The videos are presented in a tutorial or lesson fashion, which I hope are easy to follow. The knowledge presented is based on traditional techniques which can be used to create traditional books or as a foundation to quality journalling or creative artists' books. The best way to find what you are looking for is the DAS Bookbinding UA-cam Channel guide.
dasbookbinding.com/2019/12/14...
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English Closed Caption titles by Carrie Snyder. Thank you!!
The music used in the video is Bach, performed by Brendan Kinsella and used under the Open Audio License.
freemusicarchive.org/music/Bre... - Навчання та стиль
This is by far the best case making class I have ever taken, explanations are in depth, no superlative just the exact steps and procedures to achieve a great looking if not perfect case. This is a gold star. Thanks you so much for sharing your knowledge. The many tips about cutting, pasting up, and finishing are worth their weight in gold.
Thanks, you're very kind. There are plenty of better bookbinding teachers that are better than me. I just happen to have a camera and the time to make some videos. Happy binding! DAS
@@DASBookbinding I have to disagree with your statement. Your video is precise to the letter and as mono Monique said in depth, no superlative and just the exact procedures needed. I was a craft teacher for a long time and I've met a good few wafflers in my time, who may have known their subject but by god they could never get it over to the students. Well let me tell you mate, your video hits the spot!
Like you video!!! What kind of choth are you using? Because it looks like leather
I love the way we can still hear you moving the boards and other materials around. It makes the video really satisfying to watch! Thanks for giving of your time and skills for our benefit.
so sophfistifcated! You are not only a good tutor but a real artist.
I've not had much time to do any bookbinding in the last several months. These videos are helping me keep the process going in my head, I find a few little steps I would have forgotten, so thank you.
Thank you so much for making these videos, I’ve been interested in bookbinding but had no clue where to start. Your videos are so clear and such a joy to watch, I really feel prepared to jump into bookbinding
Amazing, clean and so well explained. Thank you very much.
You're very welcome! DAS
I am learning so much. Thank you for these videos.
god bless you man . thank you for all videos .
Grazie, ho appena iniziato a imparare e mi stai aiutando tantissimo!
Cheers, I've barely started learning and you've been a huge help!
You make it look so easy! Thank you!!
Wow I particularly love this tutorial, the accuracy of your technique and your descriptions which are very easy to follow, given the complexity. I had to rewind the video about ten times in the first 40seconds to take notes 😂 not to mention the rest of the video. I have watched most of your tutorials on my TV which is harder to comment on, but I’ve decided to open UA-cam on my iPad to comment on your videos that I particularly like. Have a great day. 😊
Thanks for the comment. Very nice to read!
DAS
A pleasure to watch. Thank you.🦊
wow, the tip at 19:55 about cutting the corners 1,5x board thickness away from the board is so, so useful! the corners of my books are now so clean and feel like they just fall into place naturally! this was a step that gave me headaches before, since i didn't know how to handle it correctly, now i love it, thank you so much for this!
Howdy, I simply love your videos. You inspire me to get back to making books with new skills thanks to you! Be safe.
Happy binding! DAS
Thank you! Very clear and precise, the music is lovely.
Good day thanks for sharing a great craft..your explanation is outstanding..
Excellent videos and explanations! This video helped me so much!
Ive just completed a cover with William Morris wallpaper. looks and feels amazing.
I'm a huge fan of Morris! Happy binding, DAS
Thank you.
Very informative! I was surprised to see that the corners and spine cloth were pasted down first, and the patterned paper added second, as I always assumed it would be the other way around. You do use less paper, but it doesn’t seem like the cut-off scraps would be useful for much; is there an advantage to not covering the full board with paper and putting the corners and spine cloth on top of it? And is it still done this way with leather corners?
I'll have to do a video on this some time. It's too convoluted to go into in comments. But if you want to try it the other way, you should, and it may help you understand why it's done this way. Or maybe you'll set a new trend!
If the paper overlaps the cloth, doesn’t that mean that the wear part of the book will be the paper at those overlaps?
Although I guess the alternative is fraying cloth, so… yeah.
Just wondering why corners are applied under the paper- wouldn’t the push and pull of the book on a shelf cause the paper to peel up on those corners? If the leather (or cloth) was over it- it would protect that paper edge. I guess I’ve always associated the leather corners as additions done to repair bent and torn library books.
Half bindings go back a long way, before bookcloth. Much cheaper in terms of leather. Bookbinders tend to follow routines. Even if there is a situation you could do something 2 ways, if there is another situation where there is only one way, they will use the one way for all cases. The edge of the leather on the corners will be a bit ragged and not straight. The binder often cleans this up with a paring knife. This is then hid under the fill-in and/or the board paper. I can make up other reason for board paper last, but I think the main reason is that with leather it has to go down last, and that is carried through to this binding. All the best, DAS
Thank you for making such a detailed series about this! I'm curious about your work bench: it looks like the cutting mat you're using has a back stop you use to align the text block when measuring cloth for the corners with your triangle. This seems like a useful tool: did you build it yourself?
Yes, I just screwed a piece of straight timber to the back of my bench. I'd only do this on a bench up against a wall. For working in a temporary location a bench hook is a great idea. I demonstrate this at 2:20 in the portfolio video
ua-cam.com/video/ToTGTIx3V-I/v-deo.html
Happy Binding! DAS
@@DASBookbinding I have never heard of a bench hook before! This looks super useful, thank you for the tip!
hey das im just beginning and learning book binding, and my question was what is the benefit/purpose of using paste, or paste/pva mixes, and do you make your own paste or buy it? if so how do you make it?
I think I have a blog post on this at dasbookbinding.com. But the short answer is - PVA is a surface adhesive that sticks fast, is flexible and is strong. Paste penetrates and is good for more absorbent materials and does not stick really quickly. If you don't get something where you want it with paste you can move it around. Mix gives the best of both worlds, it gives a longer "open" time but is strong and flexible. PVA has less moisture, so good when you are trying to avoid stretch. Or if you are trying to pull something in, then you use paste to maximise stretch. I make my own paste using laundry starch. My preferred method (and the ultimate) is my wife's Thermomix. But I add oil of cloves as a preservative and she said it makes everything she cooks taste like cloves. So if she is around I use my double boiler. I sometimes use the microwave. I have a couple of videos on making starch paste. Good luck and have fun!!
Thank you for such a pedagogical video. I managed to complete my own case bound books following your instructions (even that tricky_without_the_right_tools backing step).
However, in my case, scrim and tape shapes are clearly noticeable through the endpapers and it is a little unaesthetic. I am using cotton tapes 0.4 mm thick, regular bookbinding scrim and 135 gsm endpapers. No idea about how to reduce this effect.
Any suggestions?
That's great! This book is a utilitarian book and proud of its strong cotton tape support and scrim reinforced joints. Very much a feature! However, if you want to hide these you can minimise them by using thinner support like Ramieband or fraying out the tape and filling in with card inside the turn-ins before putting down the endpapers. I think I show this in at least the full leather binding. Well done! All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you! I will give this a try!
Hi Das, Love your videos! sorry for the long comment with a lot of questions, but you seem like you really know what you're doing and you answer your fans. :) I've been binding books for almost 2 years now. I've mostly done coptic and long stitch but a while back I started making cased books. Whenever I use cloth as my binding material for the cover it works fine, however I want to be using leather. Unfortunately I run into a problem almost every time I have. After casing in, when I open the book for the first time, the action will pull the signatures apart or tear the end paper. I've tried adding more hinge gap for the thicker binding material, but it still happens. I measure the spine and make the spine stiffener the same width as the spine. should I make the spine stiffener wider to account for the thickness of the leather? I also wonder if it's just inaccuracy, as you said at 11:40 "a small mistake will be multiplied by the angle of the board.". I've made leather bound books that turned out great but most don't, and I don't know what it is im doing right or wrong.
Hi Jonah, Sorry to hear you're having problems with your books. I wouldn't make the spine stiffener any wider. I think this would just result in soft shoulders. Are your books rounded and backed? I'll assume you are rounding and backing and you have an external groove between the shoulder and the boards - maybe 4mm. In my case binding video I do a tight joint without this groove. In general I prefer the groove. And your endpapers are tipped on folios? If you are doing a cased binding and substituting the cloth for leather I can't think of why you are having this problem. You paste down the endpaper by closing the book? In the project I'm doing now, hopefully next week I will cover in full leather with a tight joint - no external groove at the joint. In this binding we need to make sure there is enough pastedown material on the inside joint to allow the boards to open. To do this we will put down the endpaper with the book open. It does mean there is a bit of excess when the boards are closed. So there is a tricky point where you want the pastedown dry enough that it won't lift and crinkle when you close it but still moist enough that this bit of excess can be dealt with by a bit of compression. If we can't work out why this is happening to you, maybe the best bet is to put down the endpaper with the boards open? You'll see that next Saturday - depending on time zone:) All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding My end papers aren't tipped on folios. I had just been glueing a folded piece of decorative paper to the text block before guiliteneing it. I glued the end papers to the whole page and rather than tipping them. I don't have a backing boards or a finishing press so I haven't been able to properly round the edge to the point of getting an external groove for the cover to sit in. Rather, I've been pressing the papers with a C clamp and glueing the spine while it's under pressure. A thought occurred to me that my problem might be that I'm A) using too much pressure, or B) that the spine should sit a few millimeters outside of the press to allow it to expand. In any case I have been casing in the book by closing the cover. I think your suggestion to attach the end papers while it's open is promising and I look forward to your video on it. If I'm correct in my thinking that the error is in my pressing process, it would mean that even if I could open the book's covers without tearing, the textblock may still tear when opened all the way. Thoughts? -Jonah
@@jonahwoodstock818 I do agree that you should put the textblock between some boards (like old book covers or heavy weight grey board) and pull the boards back from the spine. The book must have swell so it should be impossible to tighten up right to the spine and keep the spine flat. I don;t think over tightening is the issue. I think there is some functional flaw in your design. Maybe try a traditional structure that is close to what you are doing now and see if anythings stands out. The one I recommend is the square back Bradel that is cased. Pasting down open may fix the issue of tearing endpapers, but I suspect the underlying cause will produce other issue down the track. Good luck, DAS
Hello! I was wondering if the material you used for the spine of the book was regular book cloth (like the kind you made in your book cloth tutorial video)?
I've never bound books before, so I don't know if the book cloth used on covers is the samething as the book cloth used on spines. If you already mentioned this in your video and I just missed it, please ignore this, sorry!
You could use the cloth like I make in the videos. But in this case it is Arbelave buckram bookcloth. DAS
Hello, in some older bookbinding books is stated that the case binding is not an actual /real binding. Any idea why is that? When I compare full cloth “out board” books without hollow back and without backing I do not see any difference in structure between case binding and that as both of them have boards glued to mull/tapes/waste paper from endpaper. Only difference what I can see is in timing - case binding cloth is pasted on boards separately while in out board binding cloth is pasted directly on book and cloth is then tucked/turn in on spine and over board. Hope it makes sense ;)
It's a very good observation. It's to do with context. Case binding came about in the early 1800s after the industrial revolution, just after the invention of wood pulp paper and book cloth. With the demand for books going through the roof bookbinders had to keep up with printers and publishers. The case bound book meant the production could be industrialised. So from the point of view of someone who considers bookbinding to be a sequential set of operations, including attaching the boards then covering the book, a case binding does not meet their definition of bookbinding. There has recently been a bit of discussion along these lines about what is a Bradel binding. There are two broad approaches, one being a case, and the other covering the book after boards are attached, which result in close to identical books. Both are called Bradel bindings, but if you say a Bradel binding is a German case binding then the in-boards version wouldn't be a Bradel, even though the resulting book is identical. I think the best approach is not to be fanatical about definitions - even though they are important - and be grateful bookbinding has such a rich and interesting history.
DAS Bookbinding thank you for you answer. I spent a whole day googling thinking I was missing something when comparing both but could not find any explanation at all and now I know why ;)
does it make a difference if you put the paper down first and then the cloth on top? I was thinking I would want the fabric going over the paper on my design but don't know if that will have a negative effect.
It's more about the practical aspects of making the book. If you put the paper on the sides first you have a very tricky problem to connect the boards around the spine and also get a nice straight and vertical edge to the cloth on the boards. If you cover the spine first you can focus on getting the boards connected properly and then either trim the edge off the cloth or just cover the edge with the paper to make a nice straight edge. For commercial work for speed and ease I think this is the best order. However, for custom one off work you do not have to follow "the rules". If there is an effect you want to achieve you can try it. If it doesn't work you can just redo it. It's only a case:) Good luck! Darryn
Thank you so much for making this series! I'm currently working on making my second cased-in book, and this has been an indispensable resource! I had a tiny question about the board paper. Do you have a recommended paper weight range to use for board paper?
Not really. You can get away with just about anything. Once it is laminated to the board the weight doesn't matter as much.
@@DASBookbinding Thank you! Good to know!
In larger landscape-oriented books, does an Oxford tunnel add any structural value since the ratio of spine length/paper weight is so small?
Such a complex question! The answer is no. But it is deserving of a conversation which isn't possible in comments. I don't follow the logic of why you think it would add strength, and I wonder why you would consider adding a hollow to an English style case binding? Maybe I'm missing something.
What can I use for the spine stiffener? Does it need to be manila card or can I just use any cardstock that I have available?
Yes, any card stock about 10pt or 0.3mm or about 300gsm will work. Even a heavy paper. DAS
Hello. I’m looking to bind a hardback with faux leather and I’m having doubts about the formula you give around 9:30. The width of my faux leather is 1mm so I should just add 2mm to the distance between the board covers correct? Thanks
At 20:50 I add the spine stiffener. This is not in place when I wrap the paper around the outside to measure the distances. The extra 2mm is to compensate (add) for the extra distance the cloth (or in your case faux leather) has to go around the spine because of this spine stiffener. Add it to the width of the spine material AND the distance between the boards. Hope this helps.
DAS Bookbinding Thank you
I have seen same type of bindings and in some cases the boards and the spine board they were connected together with kraft paper before covering. Do you know what the difference is in this case?
Do you mean the boards were attached to the book and then the book was covered? Or the boards were connected together with paper, the case covered, and then the book cased in? The first is often called an in-boards binding. There are many types of in-boards techniques. The second is most likely what is often called a Bradel binding. I have a video were I demonstrate this for a square back book. But it can be used for a rounded and backed book too. Der gebrochene Rücken is another variation too, which I have a video of.
ua-cam.com/video/t0cBQqeDToU/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/rrjU0-c9Nl0/v-deo.html
Happy binding! DAS
I mean something like this i.imgur.com/5Z97DNM.png ?
Hi. I would like to ask about the PVA paste. What's the main purpose of making a paste and using it to the cover? I'm thinking of some reasons but I want to hear it your point. How do you make the 50% starch paste? What's the ratio of water and cornstarch (I'm guessing that's how it's done).
I've got a whole playlist on adhesives. Start with the introduction.
ua-cam.com/play/PLZbEml0uyM4sH9ZDgpDbEqfHFPV8ZPOvy.html
@@DASBookbinding thank you
hello! im wondering if you've just rounded a textblock but you haven't backed it, how would you determine the hinge gap and how would it affect the width of the board?
This book is done in the English style without a gap between the shoulder and board. Traditionally I was taught in this English style to have the shoulder slightly higher than the board, but with a "supported groove" the should is the same height. I usually try and have boards and shoulders the same height as I don't like the shoulder being higher than the boards. DAS
@@DASBookbinding ahh i mean when there isn't a shoulder to the book because it hasn't been backed, there still has to be a hinge gap right? im just not sure how best to determine that gap
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Instead of using marbled paper, can you do the same thing with cloth?
Yes, if you mean the paper covering the outside of the boards.
"The size of the book is the height of the book, plus 2 times the square." Could you please explain this a little more? I get really hung up here! Thank you very, very much!
Maybe not the most elegant sentence. The overall height of the book is the height of the bookblock (the paper) and the head and tail squares. The square is the bit of the board that extends past the bookblock. Hope this helps.
Do you pay attention to the grain direction of the cloth?
I do, but ignore it in most cases. It's not really grain in cloth, but it does stretch when wet, but less than paper. Sorry, it's too large a subject to address in comments. It's more to do with the weave of the cloth and whether the cloth is paper backed. In most cases it's safe to ignore. DAS
Sorry to bother your, I have another doubt. Does the spine stiffener has to be made out of Manila card? What other materials can I use? How does that affect the measurements between the boards? Thank you
Not a problem. No, it doesn't need to be manila card, but this is one of the easiest materials to get. You don't have to buy sheets of manila card, you can cut up cheap manila folders. It can be any light card that is stiff enough to form the curve of the spine, but thin enough to be able to put the curve in. I would say anything between 0.2 and 0.4mm. And 2mm would work for this range. If you want to use something more expensive, Stonehenge 250gsm is about 0.3mm and would be perfect.
DAS Bookbinding Thank you. I’m just starting on this hobby and I didn’t know where to get Manila in my country. I’ll try to find a Manila folder
I am a complete novice and am rebinding a 1933 pictorial book of the first wold war . Could you tell me why you mix the PVA with paste? And it looks to be a wallpaper type paste, is that correct or is there a specific bookbinding paste( that's probably five times the price of the wallpaper variety) and why should I not use that? Simple questions but although I have been looking there doesn't seem to be much information about this. Also can I go with straight PVA. Even watered down! I ask this because when you added the PVA to the paste it seemed awfully thin, as I've been using PVA glue since my apprenticeship starting in 1970 and I have never come across PVA that thin before.
Maybe my mix looked thinner than it is. I might only add a bit of water to the PVA pot one it's getting near the bottom and has been evaporating for weeks and has got very thick. Mix is used to get the advantage of PVA and paste - the fast tack, but with a bit of open time so there can be some adjustment and wrinkles smoothed out. Straight PVA is high risk for operations like casing in where it is easy to get the book in crooked, but then it can't be adjusted. Wallpaper paste is usually some form of methyl cellulose. But I would stick to the stuff from bookbinder's suppliers. There are lots of variations of MC and wallpaper paste has lots of additives. It might be $12 instead of $6. Good luck! DAS
@@DASBookbinding thank you so much for the information. That will be very helpful to me.
Is there any particular reason why you overlap the cover paper over the spine and corner cloths? Rather than just cut the paper to size with no overlap
It would be very difficult to get it to fit perfectly, and with time a gap would open up. So the overlap provides durability. DAS
Can the case be done with leather?
Yes it can be done. There are a few issues, such as the leather pull as it dries and maintaining a hollow back. I did do this many years ago when I was first starting. I think I did not wet the leather and used PVA. So minimise the moisture to try and avoid the moisture going through the leather and causing water marks, and I'd put a tube (1 on 2 off) on the spine of the book.
What is the benefit of using cloth first and then glueing on the paper instead of doing it the other way around?
Sorry I can't do this questions justice in comments. Answer is a bit involved. But it's to do with the functionality. You have to do the bits that make the book function first. DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you. I guess that makes sense.
What is the thickness of the board you are using?
My starting point is 2mm board. As books get smaller I will use thinner board and larger, thicker. All the best, DAS
Is the cloth piece is book cloth or simple piece of cloth
Bookcloth. DAS
روعة فن التجليد ياسلام لو الترجمة العربية علي الأقل حانستفيد أكثر. ....وشكرا
I'm sorry, but the music is desrtacing
Check the playlists, there is no-music version of this. This is one of my very early videos before I worked out how to make videos. Maybe time to redo... DAS
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