Case Bound Book 6 Casing In // Adventures in Bookbinding
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- Part 6, the final video, in a series on binding a rounded and backed case bound book.
These videos are only possible thanks to the support of Patreons, and if you are able, your support would be greatly appreciated.
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I understand not everyone wants to use Patreon. I also very much welcome and appreciate one-off contributions. This can be done through PayPal.me/dasb...
DAS Bookbinding UA-cam Channel guide
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The tools and materials I use can be purchased from specialist suppliers and manufacturers in my suppliers list. If you are in Australia I have a limited range of items I supply by mail or by pickup from the bindery in Brisbane.
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The #DASBookbinding Channel is the perfect starting point for learning #bookbinding. It covers foundation skills, simple projects, technical methods, materials and more advanced bookbinding projects. The videos are presented in a tutorial or lesson fashion, which I hope are easy to follow. The knowledge presented is based on traditional techniques which can be used to create traditional books or as a foundation to quality journalling or creative artists' books. The best way to find what you are looking for is the DAS Bookbinding UA-cam Channel guide.
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English Closed Caption titles by Carrie Snyder. Thank you!!
The music used in the video is Bach, performed by Brendan Kinsella and used under the Open Audio License.
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Watched this whole series and made a art sketchbook for my mother's birthday!
I am so overjoyed with how it turned out. I wish I could show it here in the UA-cam comments.
Super grateful for you sharing this knowledge with us!
This is a terrific series and I learned a (metric) tonne!! I was able to complete 6 copies of nicely hand-bound volumes of the history of my father’s experiences in WWIi for my sons. I am very pleased with the outcome.
That's great. Thanks for letting me know! DAS
Frankly, you are so much better at teaching than quite a few who charge for classes. I wanted this series to be a review, it quickly became a master class.
It says more about the quality of the other bookbinding tutorials on UA-cam rather than about me:) But it's good to get the feedback so I know the approach I'm using is working. When I started I was very worried about speeding up, and showing much of the repetitive steps. I'm always looking at how to improve, but as long it is working for now that's a start! Take care. DAS
These tutorials have been terrific, such clear and excellent teaching, calm and complete. Thanks a thousand times from England
You're very welcome! DAS
Thank you so much for posting this series of videos.
I have just finished my first book, following the episodes carefully, and am really happy with the result.
A quick plug for Shepheards in Victoria, London. They have absolutely everything you need and couldn't be more helpfull.
I just finished the whole 6 videos, very informative and full of genuine experience, thanks a lot.
I hope you do a tutorial on binding with full leather, also the decorative gliding with gold embossing, that would be great.
First instalment of full leather with laced on boards should be after this project. Might even get the video work completed today. DAS
@@DASBookbinding I'm so grateful for this, can't wait to see it.
Tanks a lot.
That's beautiful! I am between jobs right now, and have found great inspiration and comfort in your videos.
Thanks so very much for filming this series. I've watched all of your videos and am learning a lot. I've already tried my hand at designing and making a few books, but still have much to learn. Thanks again and I look forward to seeing more from you!
Thanks Lisa. We all have much more to learn. Frank Wiesner made me some wood blank books last week for practicing finishing of spines. So now I don't have an excuse not to improve in this area! Take care. Darryn
These videos are brilliant! Thank you so much for making them!
You're very welcome! DAS
@@DASBookbinding Just completed my first book using these excellent videos as a guide! I'm so pleased with the result, and can't wait to make another one! Thank you again!
@@DASBookbinding Do you have a Patreon or somewhere I could make a thank you donation? These are really the best tutorials for bookbinding that I could find online, and I'd love to support you.
@@taliatelly6877 Hi, Thanks, that is a very kind thought. I am thinking of it. I'm waiting for a milestone like 100 videos. Keep an eye out. Thanks again. Happy binding, DAS
These are great videos. I have learnt so much from them and have now bound my own books. I was desperate to find someone to bind some old magazines that I had from the 1930S and an old book belonging to my grandfather, but I could not find anyone near me that could do it. After watching all these videos many times, I decided to have a go myself and made my own tools. Practice of course makes perfect, and I still have a good way to go before I am as good as you, but these videos gave me the confidence to try, I always refer back to the videos if I am unsure about a particular part. So a great big Thank you, for these superb instructional videos, I am now a burgeoning book binder😀
Keep it up!! Magazines are a pain to bind because they make very thick sections. All the best, DAS
Thanks for your videos. I really appreciate the attention to detail, the tips you give and your calm, positive approach to each stage. I've been making case bindings for many years and I have still learnt a lot.
This entire series is excellent. Thank you!
Great series! Really high quality videos and comprehensive tutorials.
That's what I aspire to, a beautiful hand-made book like yours, Darryn. All done upside down and from back to front. (left handed)
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. Videos are so well done and you are helping to train the next generation of book binders. I feel like I am in an apprenticeship for a worthy craft. Your lessons are indispensable and have helped me on my journey to become a true craftsman.
You're very welcome! DAS
I've probably watched this video 5 times trying to figure out my own way of doing things since following guides and videos never really works out 100% for me. It's quite a journey.
Got your message. Still thinking about it. Will get back to you soon. All the best, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding I'm experimenting with some romance novels I got from a second hand book store. The owner gave them to me as they were completely bent with wrecked covers. I've been using a heat gun to weaken the glue, straighten the spine, scrape most of the rubbery glue off, putting a few coats of PVA on to increase the flexibility, and using the slightly overshot/bent endpapers for some more give. I'll update when I have some results. I already have friends asking me to fix their busted trade paperbacks so I will have plenty of work!
@@DASBookbinding I think it's the bradel binding. I need to reduce the gap created by the thicker board I'm using for the covers. I think I'm going to have to figure out a little sling made out of paper or a way to get the book cloth to be on the bottom of the board if that makes sense.
Watching in Dec, 2021 and enjoying it a lot, learning, and impressed with the quality of the videos. Thanks so much.
Gosh I so struggle with this part! I know practice makes perfect, so I’m ploughing on. 😊
Beautiful!! I hope to master this one day!! Thank you for your instruction!!
wow! I made my first real book! Thank you so much for these great instructions! :D
Today I finished my first book following this series of videos: a copy of Carmilla, by Joseph Sheridan le Fanu, including the three woodcut illustrations from its original printing in the London literary magazine The Dark Blue in 1872. Huh. That makes it 150 years exactly since first publishing, I think. Anyway, I set the text in IM Fell English in a word processor, imposed it, and printed on Mohawk super fine short grain. I did a full cloth covering rather than a half-cloth like this one, and used a foil quill to trace some fancy swashes and a title onto the cover and spine.
My kettle stitches were definitely too tight and pulled at the signatures during backing. The endpapers are plain white art paper, as my efforts at making paste paper did not yield anything usable. And the text block is ever so slightly crooked in the case. But it opens and closes smoothly, and lies quite flat when open. For all its minor flaws, it is a real, honest to goodness book that I made from scratch, and I love it.
I've been vaguely interested in learning bookbinding for years. Your videos are what finally gave me that last push to dive in and make it happen. Many thanks!
Great job!
Thnx
So Beautiful...why paste with pva and paste alone ...
Check out my video on bookbinding adhesives. Happy binding
Excellent series. Thank you. I have made a set of four little case bound books, and while they turned out mostly good, there was one issue I had:
"You don't want your book wedge-shaped."
Mine did turn out to be wedge-shaped due to the thickness of the tapes. I got the tape from Talas, so I know it's the right sort. Maybe it's because the books are slim volumes. But is there a solution for this? I could do without the tapes and only use scrim. Or I could fill in the inside of the cover before pasting down the endpapers. Or I could improvise tapes from scrim material. Do you have any suggestions? It would be very much appreciated. Thank you.
I'm not sure how the sewing supports make the book wedge shaped. But on a thin book you can get away with not using supports.
I love your stuff and you've been so helpful on comments. One more quick question because maybe I missed something. On your made endpapers video there would be a white waste sheet between the endpaper and the chipboard. Are you trimming this off at some point (or trimming it down at least)? Or would you paste that to the chipboard then the decorative paper onto it?
Yes, they get torn out just before putting down the endpaper. I demo this in a number of videos, that last being the full leather flexibly sewn book. DAS
@@DASBookbinding you’re the very best. Thank you so much! You’ve got a huge fan in the US.
Questions:
1) What brand of bookcloth are you using?
2)What kind of paper did you use for the endsheets (make and weight)?
Thanks
I think I used Arbelave on that book, which I think is my favourite cloth that I can easily access. I use Crash Canvas for older style books and boxes (I was just using it today for a clam shell box). I prefer starch backed cloths over paper backed cloth.
For plain coloured endpapers I prefer weights 110 - 130gsm. For decorative papers, because I'll use a made endpaper, they can be lighter in weight. For that book I think it was a Canson paper. I really like a German paper maker called Gmund, but I don't have a supplier any more. In the US there are very nice papers by Mohawk and Legion Paper.
All the best. DAS
Your videos are unbelievable. My experience with book binding has been mostly rebinding machine bound books (like your standard hardcover book) the way I was taught what to make a .9mm space between the board and the spine stiffener + the thickness of the board (eg. for a 2mm board a space of 1.1 on each side) and then to use a dowel to make a groove.
I like this method much better, but is it possible to to this tipped on endpapers?
Hi, glad you're enjoying the videos. My first case bound book I taught this too. But it is a bit trickier getting the board widths correct. So for simplicity I use the "English" joint for starting out. Then years later I learnt that German binders have a little trick that makes setting the joint groove and getting the boards the right size easy. They add a piece of paper between the boards that holds everything in place. This small change and it becomes a Bradel binding. I would recommend this trick when adding the joint groove. This groove is often called a French groove, by English binders anyway. I think it adds a nice structural element to the cover and opens well too. I forgot I was going to do a video on this. I might have to go back to it. All the best, Darryn
I'm loving your videos and learning a lot. In this one you case in with paste. What kind of paste are you using? Thank you so much for your videos.
Thanks. It's starch paste. I have a couple of videos on making it. The microwave paste video was my very first video. I can't watch it:) For years and years I made paste in a double boiler on the stove. Then I worked out my wife's Thermomix made fantastic paste, It never gets tired stirring and sits at exactly the right temperature. I don;t think my wife is as pleased especially when I add oil of cloves.
DAS Bookbinding You are very helpful, thank you. I really appreciate your videos, I wish I had half your knowledge. I'm trying to understand and learn how to make really nice notebooks, and you are teaching me so much. Cheers! :)
I think the springback is underrated for use as a notebook!
DAS Bookbinding That's an interesting idea! I may have to experiment with that. 😊
Thanks for the video seried I learnt a lot watching these. For the paste I know you make yours from starch. Have you used wallpaper paste for bookbinding?
Good question. I personally wouldn't use wall paper paste as I'm sure it has additives that I probably don't want in my books. By my understanding is the main adhesive used is methyl cellulose, and I use this all the time. It can be used as a straight replacement for starch paste. It's not as strong as starch paste, but in many cases this won't be an issue. Some people use it for making paste paper too.
@@DASBookbinding thanks for the reply. The reason I thought of wall paste is that it has mold resisting properties. But it is not as strong as starch is interesting.
@@WunHeart In most application the strength doesn't matter. I add a few drops of oil of cloves as an preservative to my paste when I'm making it.
Great videos!!
This may be a dumb question, but are most of these techniques or steps applicable to a hard cover book without a rounded spine? Besides the softcover-to-hardcover video, I'm not sure if you've made a case binding video with a regular spine (if so, I've missed it!)
I'm wanting to make a hardcover book, but I don't want to round it's spine. Can I still follow these videos and make little adjustments for what I assume to do? Not entirely sure how to case in yet, but I think I'm starting to wrap my head around it.
Anyway, thank you again for explaining everything so well! I'm learning so much!
I have a number of videos on square back bindings. I add the strip of paper that joins the boards and spine piece, which in my book makes them Bradel bindings. So look for square back Bradel binding. You need to make sure there isn't much swell for square back bindings. If you haven't seen the video on swell I'd recommend checking it out. Also the introduction to case binding. When starting out with casing in I highly recommend using a paste type adhesive - specifically methyl cellulose. If there are wrinkles in the paste down or the book ends up crooked then you can start again and fix the problem. If you use PVA there is a good chance of damaging the paste down trying to move it.
@@DASBookbinding Thank you so so much!!! I'll do all the things you said, thank you!!
💙📚💙📚💙
I always get an ugly crease near the hinge. I do not know what else to do.
With not much information it is hard to know what is causing this. You might want to let the pastedown fully relax before closing the board on it. If the paper continues to expand once the board is closed this can cause wrinkles in the pastedown. Hope this helps.
DAS
I made it a little better now by using pure paste and not opening the book to much right after casing in. But now it gets good 85% of the time, let's say...
There's always a gap between my textblock and the cover spine, do you think it might be bc of a too big space between the board pieces?🤔
Try a bit less - just a mm - and see if it helps. Good luck! DAS
why the startch paste and not pva glue?
is there a reason or is it because of tradition ?
Tradition is usually based on a reason too. Because it is very easy to case the book in crooked, or get wrinkles in the paste down. If you use straight PVA it tacks very fast and you can't reposition the text or lift the paper to remove the wrinkles. Casing in is one of the most stressful steps for many people. Everything is done and just one last step to finish the books. Using paste takes a lot of the stress out of this process. Sometimes you also want a bit more pull from the pastedown to slight curve the boards inwards - just slightly. The extra moisture in the paste will stretch the pastedown more, providing extra pull when it dries. DAS
@@DASBookbinding This is a great video, verey helpful. I agree very much with what you say in your reply, and i am one of those people who find casing in well to be difficult and stressful. But this approach seems to be much calmer, slower and more likely to produce good results. I will definitely try it on the next book I make. Would you think you can use the same steps if you are using a Bradel binding? Phillip