Avoiding Warped Boards // Adventures in Bookbinding
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- Опубліковано 7 лип 2024
- In this video I discuss and demonstrate how materials such as paper, card, board, cloth and leather interact with each other when laminated with wet adhesive. Understanding how materials behave is essential to moving from copying what you have been taught to being able to design your own books. This topic is particularly important for obtaining flat stable boards.
These videos are only possible thanks to the support of Patreons, and if you are able, your support would be greatly appreciated.
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I understand not everyone wants to use Patreon. I also very much welcome and appreciate one-off contributions. This can be done through PayPal.me/dasbookbinding
DAS Bookbinding UA-cam Channel guide
dasbookbinding.com/2019/12/14...
00:00 Avoiding Warped Boards
00:30 Why this topic is important to bookbinding
01:05 Grain
01:45 Paper stretch (expansion) and relaxing
02:40 Paper pull causing warping
03:30 Countering pull
04:35 Stretching pastedown endpaper
05:45 Controlling pull using different papers
06:30 How card and board react to moisture
07:00 Rule of thumb: thinner material should receive the adhesive
07:10 Rule of thumb: thinner material should be nearer the textblock
07:35 Obscure Julius Sumner Miller quote
07:40 Exaggerated example of paste on thicker material producing wrinkles
08:15 Ideal final state of boards - hugging the book not flapping open
08:55 Break the last rule by using dryer adhesive and paper with little stretch
09:15 I don't like cross laminating
09:40 Does bookcloth have a grain - sort of, but it's different. In doubt? Test!
10:55 Leather has a very strong pull
11:35 Handmade paper - can be thought of as having two grain directions
12:40 Using a press to alter mechanical properties of boards
13:48 More rambling on about design
14:30 Avoid all this by drumming on
15:05 Yet more rambling on......
15:40 Shameless Patreon plug - Thanks Patreons!!!!!!
The tools and materials I use can be purchased from specialist suppliers and manufacturers in my suppliers list. If you are in Australia I have a limited range of items I supply by mail or by pickup from the bindery in Brisbane.
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The #DASBookbinding Channel is the perfect starting point for learning #bookbinding. It covers foundation skills, simple projects, technical methods, materials and more advanced bookbinding projects. The videos are presented in a tutorial or lesson fashion, which I hope are easy to follow. The knowledge presented is based on traditional techniques which can be used to create traditional books or as a foundation to quality journalling or creative artists' books. The best way to find what you are looking for is the DAS Bookbinding UA-cam Channel guide.
dasbookbinding.com/2019/12/14...
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English Closed Caption titles by Carrie Snyder. Thank you!!
The music used in this video is performed by Jon Sayles. Jon has some great classical guitar music on his website, which he shares freely. - Навчання та стиль
![ОРБАН приехал к ПУТИНУ и "отчитался" о поездке в Киев 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_0ukDovOWq8/mqdefault.jpg)
It's videos and information like this that addresses a lot of the frustrations and problems beginner binders confront that will keep the art of hand binding alive and well, giving us generations to carry on the trade.
Thank you for your insight, your skills, and the generosity to share them with the world.
It would be fun if you created a playlist called "Mis-adventures in Bookbinding."
So glad I came across this video re binder board warp. I cannot say I understood everything first time but I will continue watching it again and again. Thank you!
14:04 'bookbinders learn by binding books' - a very accurate statement that can be applied to a great many things in life. Personally I get a vast amount of enjoyment from experimenting and trying out various ways of doing things so that I can work out which is the best one for me. Thanks as always for the insightful and helpful video 👍
i would never thought that i will have so much interest in how paper works :D
A Julius Sumner Miller drop? I very much approve
You are a very erudite teacher.
I'm learning so much fom your channel. Thank you.
This is such an important topic, that I would recommend that anyone starting out, review and become familiar with it before venturing into any binding project, period. Thank you for the video.
One happy lady here! Thanks dear
Amazing video and presentation! Thank you!
I have learned so much from your videos I now can enjoy bookbinding again. I started years ago and learned just enough to make all the rookie mistakes, got frustrated, and stopped. Now, your videos have been like a breath of fresh air. Thanks again, I'll keep watching and more importantly, Learning!!! Cheers!
I know I'll be referring to this video over and over because this is one area of bookbinding that has had me stumped. Thanks for generously sharing your know-how and experience, I really appreciate it.
You are a godsend sir. Thank you!
thank you so much! you are the best bookbinding teacher on you tube.
Thanks, but it's probably because there isn't many of them:) DAS
There aren't many of them because it requires not only a deep knowledge of binding, but also of filming and editing, and the ability to teach and communicate ideas. You do all of this well. We are all blessed with your gifts and grace to share them with the world.
You are such a great teacher.
I just love listening to you. Thank you so much.
And thank you for always giving options and stating your way isn't the only way. It keep the road to more learning open and I cherish people who can do this. 🖤
Great tutorial as usual !!! And in my opinion, to understand how paper behaves (and why), is essential for every person who likes to create with paper. If all the paper-crafters on UA-cam had learned that first important lesson, there would be less frustation and less double-sided adhesive-tape... 🙂
Your wisdom and insight on the stretch and pull of paste on book boards are illuminating. Thanks.
Thanks for the video, I've known about how moisture affects covers conceptually, but it's awesome to see examples of it in practice.
Appreciate the effort that went into making such a comprehensive analysis - it's really helped to clarify the issues for me.
so much to learn😱
The tutorial is excellent! Thank you very much.
I love how you show so many varieties and how they affect what happens to the cover board. I will have to watch this a few times and as I am practicing some of the techniques. Thanks so much for all you do to elevate those of us around you.
Thank you for this - I am an absolute beginner in the world of book binding and there is so much to take on board. I watched this through 3 times and thought I’d cracked it, but oh dear I was greeted by a pair of castanets this morning! Missed the golden rule of thinner paper next to the text block. Good to learn from mistakes. I believe that during the privations of World War 2 that some Russians ate “library candy”, would that have been the wheat paste adhesive?
No, I don't think paste would be the library candy. But I can't think of anything else either. Happy binding!
Another pain point for me. It may be a result of my local climate (cold but humid UK) but I find that my boards always bend in the direction I don't expect them to, despite paying attention to grain direction of the board and weft of the fabric wherever possible. What I found does work for me is to apply some gentle heat to the laminated materials before pressing works wonders. This might involve leaving the covered board on a sunny ledge for a while, or perhaps in the airing cupboard if the sun is being shy. I'm no scientist but I'm fairly certain (in an intuitive sort of way) that this moderates the reaction between paper and PVA. Basically if I leave a case to dry of its own accord under bricks or books - or nip in colder, dryer conditions - it just doesn't play ball.
I made a book with covers of machine-made paper entirely pasted outside and in, and they are beautifully flat. Then, after seeing you drum on in another video, I used the same type of boards and paper and the result was a substantial bowing from head to tail. Conversely, entirely-pasted covers with a hand-made paper ended up bowed from corner to corner :-( I need to get more of this paper to try drumming on. There is so much to learn, and I'm guessing a lot of trial and error is necessary! After those experiences I ended up with many questions about techniques, properties of glues/pastes and types of paper. Your videos are helping a lot, so thank you!
Yes, learning about materials and practice is something bookbinders continue to do forever. Glad you're enjoying the journey. DAS
oh wow - I made a very cute book including kraft paper, and it warped like nobody's business. This is so exciting to understand why! Thank you so much, I'll absolutely pay attention to this going forward!
I recently came across your channel and have throughly enjoyed it. This video however has given me a headache. I’ll need to rewatch it. The one item I retained was: learn by doing. Thanks.
I can’t thank you enough for this video! You just saved my latest bookbinding project. This is the second book I’ve made attempting to use book cloth instead of paper for the covers, and the first one had terribly warped covers so I wanted to try again. I got the grain direction of my boards wrong the same way I did with the first book so they were bowing out from top to bottom, but this time I knew about paper grain and stretching /expansion and was lucky enough that the paper that I chose for the end pages was short grain. I used the water method to determine grain direction that you showed in your paper grain video. I glued my pages on to my warped boards and came back a few hours later to find them perfectly flat!! Absolutely magical, thank you!!!
This is the most brilliantly helpful video! Thank you so much for all of the effort and expenditure that went into making this!
I once used hardboard instead of gatorboard to stretch my watercolor paper, and learned that 140lb Arches paper is string enough to badly warp 1/8" thick hardboard!
As someone who has done woodworking, sewing, and painting, it's amazing how different yet similar grain mechanics are across mediums. Always critically important to consider. At least it's not so complex as grain in metal-working.
Exactly what I was looking for.
I have just started venturing into paste. The added moisture has been causing some frustration. This is exactly the video I needed! Your presentation and explanation is thorough and your explanation is clear. Many thanks!
That was incredibly useful! Thank you :)
I can't thank you enough for this video, Darryn, it's answered so many questions.
Hi Beck! Glad you found it useful. Maybe not to most exciting subject but I see so much poor advice on the internet about it and get so many questions I thought it was time for a series of videos on the basics. All the best, Darryn
Very useful, thank you so much!
That was a great presentation. Answered a lot of my questions. Thank you.
Fade-free technology
Thank you. Unfortunately, as much as I hope to learn from your videos, I learn best by making my own mistakes.
Yes, I've lived the Paul Kelly life and made plenty of mistakes. But it helps if you know what is causing the mistakes. In hindsight, I personally would have been happy to get some good advice and miss some of those mistakes. Take care, DAS
This is very, very helpful. Thank you. I'm dealing with these issues and the're driving me nuts! I'm new so I'm not sure what is called what. When I have my text block and cover prepared, it's the step of attaching the text block to the cover that I'm finding really hard. I can manage it, but I'm getting terrible wrinkles on the paper that is adhered to the inside cover. I've changed materials, smashed it even harder in the press, etc. but I'm still getting a very unprofessional look that is evident as soon as someone opens my book.
Have a watch through of the videos on a cased rounded and backed book. Putting down the endpapers can be very difficult. Pressing doesn't get rid of wrinkles just as it doesn't unwrap boards. Make sure the grain direction is head to tail, use paste and not PVA, and let the paper relax before putting it down. If you get some wrinkles, lift it back up and carefully put it back down using some rubbing down paper to smooth it out towards the edge. Good luck! DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you
Thanks again for a great video! I was just thinking about it today. As some of my projects came up warped! 🤷♀️
It happens. Just look at that blue covered book I showed. If I'd just filed in under the paste down the extra bit of inward pull would have fixed that. Otherwise that was such a nice book. DAS
Thank you so much for sharing all your wisdoms with us! Your content really is so stellar. Now that I have a new job I'll be subscribing on patreon soon just as soon as I'm back in a comfy position!
Glad you like the videos. Make sure you're all good first. All the best! DAS
@@DASBookbinding you're a legend! 😊❤️
Mechanical forces, material properties... goddammit, I can't escape Hibbeler even while watching a bookbinding video 😥
I kid, of course. Both Hibbeler and this are quite cool to learn, while also being about equally as frustrating when you mess up.
My PhD is in physics, so it should be Tipler:) DAS
Thanks a lot for sharing your detailed and experienced deep knowledge! I enjoy your channel and your videos a lot!
Glad you like them! DAS
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Yes leather has a very strong pull. I didn't account for it and undercut my corners by 3-5 cm. Project totally ruined.
Sorry:(
@@DASBookbinding Like you said, the only way to learn how to do bookbinding is to do it. And now I know what not to do.
Is this why sewn-board binding typically used drumming for cover materials? Because the way things are layered makes it more difficult to account for or predict warping? Or is it just that the sewing provides strength that then isn't necessary to provide with extra adhesive?
I'd have to go back to Gary Frost early articles to see what his main reasoning was, but I think it was more aesthetic. More layers will end up very rigid, and more opportunity for corrections if needed. But slow, and one of the features of the sewn board binding is how fast they can be made. DAS
What if you use PVA glue, let the paper dry and relax and then iron the components together?
I never considered that there are so many details in bookbinding. Now I have started to understand that this craft is very complex and you learn many hears in order to be good enough. If most of the issues in this video are caused by water in the glue, is there glue alternatives that do not cause so many issues?
It's only an issue while you are learning to use your materials. I guess the real issue is when people don't want to work with materials, but fight it instead. I do find it hard to manage expectations. You can do great stuff very quickly. I try and guide people by categorising projects to start with in the beginners playlist. But people still want to start with a traditional full leather binding. It's like sitting down at a piano and expecting to be able to just play the Goldberg Variations. It is complicated by the internet being full of work that is held up as being of this standard done by beginners, which is not. But back to your question, what solvent (or a suspension, I guess) other than water could be used in adhesive that wouldn't swell cellulose fibre and still act as an adhesive? Water is hard to beat and if you did find another, is it traditional bookbinding? Commercial binding takes a different approach, but unless you can work at the speed of a machine, these adhesives have limited (no?) use to the hand bookbinder. Hope this helps.
@@DASBookbinding You are a real mentor. I really appreciate that you take the time to explain to me. It is true, I was looking for some glues that will not give me trouble. Your video with paper tension and paper fibers direction was really inspiring. I will try to pay more attention to the materials I have and what they really need to make it work. Thank you! I wish you a great week-end!
@
DAS Bookbinding I have a book that has broken in several pieces, there was major damage to the glue along the spine. Do you have a video about reassembling a text block and regluing the spine?
If it is a paperback then there will be something in the next few months. If it is sewn sections then I have a lot more to teach first. Actually, if it is really falling to pieces then finish the job and pull it back to sections and do a complete rebind using one of the many methods I've demonstrated. To pull apart, cut the sewing on the inside. Test the spine glue to see is it softens with a bit of moisture. If it does, carefully moisten the glue, trying to not let it get in the paper, and scrape the glue off with something blunt, the back of a knife. Press the cleaned sections to get them flat and rebind. Good luck! DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you DAS! It is a hardcover book! I think I can get it back together with some patience, you have some great technique videos out there (the best in bookbinding IMO). Thanks!
I just realized I cut the board in the wrong grain direction but already pasted the cloth which was embroidered. It is now warped. Is it possible to solve this with an additional layer of thinner board glued onto it to pull the opposite direction? Can I remedy this at all ?
Hi there many thanks for the video. I'm often showing your films to students asking. I'm still wondering why we laminate boards with kraft paper inbetween though. The only reason I can think of is so that you know where to stop chamfering. Do you think there would be a huge discrepancy strengthwise between a board made up of two boards laminated with kraft inbetween and kraft inside and a board made up of two boards laminated with only kraft for the inner layer. Thank you again. Kate
It makes a big difference to the rigidity. I guess it's the trapped tension in the layer of kraft paper.
Would board thickness have an impact on bowing if your covering with paper or pasting down?
Usually thicker board is stiffer and thus for the same pull it will warp less. But everything still applies as it still warps. But it is more stable once the book is complete in that any warping due to environmental changes will be less. I hope I answered your question. DAS
Another must watch video. And to see correction of warped boards ua-cam.com/video/SiSFTloWfKE/v-deo.html
What about using a hardboard like Masonite? Wouldn't that be hard enough to resist warping?
Very acidic. I wouldn't use Masonite in a bookbinding project as the acidity will migrate into the book. Plus, the easiest way to deal with pull is to balance it out rather than to overcome or over power it:) DAS
Hello Darryn. You know, I've seen a lot of bookbinders laminate boards on both sides and I wonder, why do they do that? Is it important to laminate boards? Should I do it always?
Mostly for leather bindings, because of this really strong pull of leather. You want the boards to be as stiff as possible (the mechanical advantage) and usually pulled inwards before you cover with leather. They will usually send u being slightly pulled outward and this will be corrected with another draw sheet or fill-in and pastedown. I don't do it for cloth bindings and for leather I used to only line the inside with paper, but am laminating boards more often now. But never cross grain even if other very good bookbinders say it is a good thing to do:) All the best, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding Thank you, Darryn. Cheers!
Like this comment, if you've ever made a book with warped cover boards. I certainly have made a book like that. xp I suspect that the wrong grain direction of the boards was the culprit.
Thanks for the informative and helpful video. I'll be sure to watch this again in the future. You might want to add a link to your paper grain video and the "drumming on board covers" video to the above video description.
Do wooden boards have these same difficulties?
I'd imagine so as wood also swells from moisture and it has a "grain direction" as well.
Wood does indeed warp due to moisture, that's why quartersawn wood is so prized because the it only has grain in one direction. Carpenter's frequently have to factor in wood movement because there will be changes based on humidity. However, quartersawn wood is much more expensive. You also need to make sure the wood has dried to it's final moisture level because until then, it will warp. However, if you use dried boards, at the size of a book cover, there is not likely to be that much wood movement. As long as you used quartersawn or even plywood, it wouldn't be a big factor.
Jim Croft has written extensively on this subject. As mentioned in a reply, quarter sawn deals with most issues. But if wood does decide to warp with time there is no paper going to stop it:) DAS
Would you have any advice for someone using wood as the board material? Since I build the boards up in multiple pieces (typically four, interlocking triangular pieces) with opposing grain directions, the boards don't warp in a linear fashion, but rather twist, forming a saddle shape.
Sorry, wood is a different beast that I probably know less about than you. I do know that wood will move and I think what you describe might be next to impossible with solid wood. Maybe veneer? Maybe the type of wood?
@@DASBookbinding Thanks for the response. Yes, I am switching to aircraft grade birch plywood rather than cheap, single-ply basswood. If that doesn't work, I will just have to give up on wood covers.
Thanks so much for this video. Such useful information and great examples to go along with it.