The reason patience is a virtue is for repair jobs like this. Popping it open and cleaning the parts is a breeze. Lining everything up and then snapping it back together will take some time. This was a very good video.
Been repairing E-units since 1971 . The secret to assenbling an E-unit is hold the paw out of the way from the assembly with a tooth pick. One at a time, install the 4 finger, then the steel pin, then the drum and last the 2 finger into position , from the bottom to the top - Snap together with pliers, then pull out the tooth pick .
Very good video Warren- When I first attempted this it was probably around 1993 and patience is a definitely needed to this. Another good idea is to take plenty of pictures with your cell phone so that you can see how everything fits, including where wires are connected that may break off during disassembly / reassembly. However once you get it back together and it works you get a real sense of accomplishment from repairing this complicated looking device. At this point when I disassemble any train I take plenty of pictures. As usual a very good video. A++++
FYI the eunit switches the lines going in an out of the comutator. Example fwd power goes in the left brush through the comutator and out the right brush and into the field coil. Rev power goes in the right brush through the commutator and out the left brush and into the field coil. Neutral is no connection.
Okay Mr Bill Nye the science Guy!, you're really doing it the hard way!, you're making it 10 times harder than it has to be, use some CLR it'll clean it right up!, no Scotch pad needed no scrubbing needed Just an eyedropper, one drop on each finger, then turn the drummer on and rinse it off what's a couple drops of water, wipe it clean, and it will be clean, just like the date was made
Are all the E units in post war Lionels identical so that if replacement parts are needed there is no concern about variations? Secondly, I presume the lever switch disconnects the plunger coil from track power such that movement of the drum is halted and the direction of the engine is maintained? When the plunger does not move, is that indicative of a non contact of the "fingers" not making contact with the drum? I am dealing with a finicky e unit now and after some contact cleaner, I can get the engine running in both directions by manually rotating the drum, but the movement of the pawl is not evident electrically.
I have found all post war Lionels from 1950-69 eunits have the same parts except for the positioning and length of the lever. Diesels have longer handles that extend out of the bottom of the shell. The drum is not constantly spinning, it only turns to change the direction of the locomotive. When you push the direction button on the transformer you will hear a "click". That is the pawl dropping down, hooking onto a tooth on the drum, raising back up thus turning the drum to put the loco in reverse, forward or neutral position. If the pawl is not moving the coil of the eunit may have a loose wire, or is damaged. Damage could be obvious, or a small nick in the laquer insulation on the wires (that gives the wires the dark red look as opposed to bright copper). Or its been shorted. My suggestion is if the coil has a loose wire, re-attach it. If it doesn't, just replace the coil.
@@warrenmuzakpostwarguy4331 Thanks for getting back to me. After numerous attempts to diagnose the fault. I found a cold solder joint from the coil to the coil switch. Everything is working fine now.
Great video Warren - but it turned out to be a little beyond me! :D I've completely borked my e-unit on my 2018 now. I can't get it reassembled and one of the wires has broken off. LOL. Bad eyes plus unsteady hands. Anyone want a 2018 for parts?
I guarantee that 2018 is still salvageable. A perfect Loco to learn this stuff on. Take a break, scream at a tree, then come back and give it another try. You got this Brian👍
@@warrenmuzakpostwarguy4331 I found this video (ua-cam.com/video/MmD7-0OTyeQ/v-deo.html) which gives a very thorough walkthrough - including that toothpick trick. As soon as I get a good light and magnifying glass setup, I'll give it another shot.
@@elroySF I always find the toughest part of the process is putting the darn thing back together. It definitely takes time, patience, and practice. But it's very satisfying once you succeed!
A confusing piece of equipment but with time and study, it can be thoroughly under stood, go figure! That use to be modern technology in the essence! Being over 60 years in, it's music to my ears! Sum are more quieter than others, strictly conventional
Correct. Needle nose pliers will not fit in there. You have to listen to the whole explanation starting at 15:14. Next loose handle I get I'll make another E-unit video showing that.
The reason patience is a virtue is for repair jobs like this. Popping it open and cleaning the parts is a breeze. Lining everything up and then snapping it back together will take some time. This was a very good video.
Been repairing E-units since 1971 . The secret to assenbling an E-unit is hold the paw out of the way from the assembly with a tooth pick. One at a time, install the 4 finger, then the steel pin, then the drum and last the 2 finger into position , from the bottom to the top - Snap together with pliers, then pull out the tooth pick .
Maybe you could post a video of this technique? I've tried until my eyes are crossed to get the damned thing back together. :)
Very good video Warren- When I first attempted this it was probably around 1993 and patience is a definitely needed to this. Another good idea is to take plenty of pictures with your cell phone so that you can see how everything fits, including where wires are connected that may break off during disassembly / reassembly. However once you get it back together and it works you get a real sense of accomplishment from repairing this complicated looking device. At this point when I disassemble any train I take plenty of pictures. As usual a very good video. A++++
FYI the eunit switches the lines going in an out of the comutator.
Example
fwd power goes in the left brush through the comutator and out the right brush and into the field coil.
Rev power goes in the right brush through the commutator and out the left brush and into the field coil.
Neutral is no connection.
Okay Mr Bill Nye the science Guy!, you're really doing it the hard way!, you're making it 10 times harder than it has to be, use some CLR it'll clean it right up!, no Scotch pad needed no scrubbing needed Just an eyedropper, one drop on each finger, then turn the drummer on and rinse it off what's a couple drops of water, wipe it clean, and it will be clean, just like the date was made
Its not science. Just being thorough. Inspecting the E-unit for worn or damaged parts is never a wasted effort. If your way works for you go with it.
Are all the E units in post war Lionels identical so that if replacement parts are needed there is no concern about variations? Secondly, I presume the lever switch disconnects the plunger coil from track power such that movement of the drum is halted and the direction of the engine is maintained? When the plunger does not move, is that indicative of a non contact of the "fingers" not making contact with the drum? I am dealing with a finicky e unit now and after some contact cleaner, I can get the engine running in both directions by manually rotating the drum, but the movement of the pawl is not evident electrically.
I have found all post war Lionels from 1950-69 eunits have the same parts except for the positioning and length of the lever. Diesels have longer handles that extend out of the bottom of the shell.
The drum is not constantly spinning, it only turns to change the direction of the locomotive. When you push the direction button on the transformer you will hear a "click". That is the pawl dropping down, hooking onto a tooth on the drum, raising back up thus turning the drum to put the loco in reverse, forward or neutral position.
If the pawl is not moving the coil of the eunit may have a loose wire, or is damaged. Damage could be obvious, or a small nick in the laquer insulation on the wires (that gives the wires the dark red look as opposed to bright copper). Or its been shorted.
My suggestion is if the coil has a loose wire, re-attach it. If it doesn't, just replace the coil.
@@warrenmuzakpostwarguy4331 Thanks for getting back to me. After numerous attempts to diagnose the fault. I found a cold solder joint from the coil to the coil switch. Everything is working fine now.
Great video Warren - but it turned out to be a little beyond me! :D I've completely borked my e-unit on my 2018 now. I can't get it reassembled and one of the wires has broken off. LOL. Bad eyes plus unsteady hands. Anyone want a 2018 for parts?
I guarantee that 2018 is still salvageable. A perfect Loco to learn this stuff on. Take a break, scream at a tree, then come back and give it another try. You got this Brian👍
@@warrenmuzakpostwarguy4331 I found this video (ua-cam.com/video/MmD7-0OTyeQ/v-deo.html) which gives a very thorough walkthrough - including that toothpick trick. As soon as I get a good light and magnifying glass setup, I'll give it another shot.
@@elroySF I always find the toughest part of the process is putting the darn thing back together. It definitely takes time, patience, and practice. But it's very satisfying once you succeed!
A confusing piece of equipment but with time and study, it can be thoroughly under stood, go figure! That use to be modern technology in the essence! Being over 60 years in, it's music to my ears! Sum are more quieter than others, strictly conventional
Not a good explanation of tightening the handle. There is no room to get a needle nose plier between the rivet and the coil.
Correct. Needle nose pliers will not fit in there. You have to listen to the whole explanation starting at 15:14. Next loose handle I get I'll make another E-unit video showing that.
It's an electromagnet