Thank you so much! I am 76 and am wearing a store bought tshirt that constantly rides back as do most of my shirts. Went into my sewing room, pulled out my trusty tshirt pattern from Stretch and Sew that I have used a zillion times and added 5/8 inch to the back. So easy to do! THANK YOU!
If I had waited three days for cutting out my sister's jacket, I certainly would have used this method for High Round Back. At least, now, I can use it for mine. Thanks, Whitney, for this morning's lesson. I enjoy this so much. ~ L
This is a great tutorial! I've tried various other adjustments to address whatever it is going on with my shoulders/neck/upper back.....and this adjustment was so easy and solved the lot! Thank you.
I've seen other ways of doing this adjustment, Whitney, but yours is the simplest. I've just done it on the back piece for the Sew Liberated Hinterland Dress. My fabric is in the washing machine!
I tried this on the love notions oakley vest I turned into a jacket with quilted fabric , worked great , also did it to the yoke of my aria that i m going to use to make a shacket with .
Hi from England. As you say this is mindblowing! I have used many methods to do this adjustment and they have all been 'messy' This is so simple and obvious, i will use it in future. Thank you very much.
I have been using your method with much success. Now need to make this adjustment on LN Timbre which is a dolman sleeve. Scratching my head as to how to proceed.
Very good tutorial and so helpful. I was looking at how you first placed pattern on and not even pay attention to where neck was and thinking that is going to be a miracle to get it all lined up again.
Now that I have severe osteoarthritis and Rheumatoid arthritis my upper back has become very rounded. Thank you for this adjustment. I can't wait to try it.
Perfect timing on this video. I have always done the slash & spead method but was stumped when I did the LN Olympia with the grown-on collar & facing. Going to try this method next! Thanks Whitney.
That was excellent. Thank you. I make the adjustment but I go to nothing at the armscye. But is like having more than one way to do things, so I will give this a try.
Thanks for the tutorial. Can’t wait for the broad back adjustment. I liked how you didn’t have to loose the center fold. Question, so if you’re shoulder in the back has a slight slope, do you need to adjust the front pattern to match the slope at the shoulder?
No, your front shoulder doesn't need to change. If anything changes, the back might become just a bit longer, in which case you would just ease the excess length into the front when sewing.
I have a video on how to do an FBA on a dolman style sleeve. If you watch that, you'll see how I cut off the "sleeve", do the adjustment and then reattach. I would the same thing, but with the high round. I would cut off the "sleeve," do the high round adjustment and then tape it back on.
So helpful! I'm looking forward to when you do a broad shoulder adjustment/Rounded shoulder. (bad posture from being a self conscious teenager!!! Did not want to stand tall...)
I can definitely do a forward shoulder adjustment video. As far as the broad shoulder, it is the same as the narrow shoulder, you just pivot the shoulder point out instead of in. I will be doing a broad back adjustment next week, though!
This is a very easy adjustment as you say and very well explained. What happens when there is a 2 inch deficit? I am making a stretch top for a friend and her back is very rounded at the upper 6 inches only. Any tips would be appreciated.
I would suggest doing no more than 5/8" using this method. For the remaining 1 3/8", I would slash and spread the pattern a bit further down and create a wedge of the 1 3/8". This will require a center back seam as the seam will have quite a bit of curve, but that will give her the best fit with a rounded back!
That is great! I do have to make that adjustment (that spine deformation is genetic in my family) but all the ones I know about don't work that well. I'll put this one to the test right now. Thank you so much.
This is great! I'd be interested in how you'd do this with a yoke. I'm going to try doing this adjustment all on the yoke piece 🤔. If you also need a forward shoulder adjustment, what order would you do things in? Thank you!!!
I have to do a high rounded back adjustment, this is a little different than what I do , so I will try this too. I ve had it all my life but of course is more noticeable as we age .sometimes the neckline does stand out but mainly pulls my tops back
Hi, I am amazed at your extensive sewing knowledge and thankful that you are sharing it. ❤I am trying to change a puffed sleeve back to a normal set in sleeve. Have you done a tutorial on that? I have looked everywhere on the internet and in books and they only explain how to add a puff to a normal sleeve. Thanks for any suggestion or help. Sharon
Is it for a knit pattern or a woven pattern? I would measure the armscye (front and back), then do the slash and spread method, except you will be slashing and overlapping to get the sleeve cap back to set in sleeve. If you are using a knit, I would make the sleeve cap length the same length as the armscye measurement. If it's a woven pattern, I would make the sleeve cap length 1/2"-3/4" longer than the armscye length because it will need that ease for movement.
Excellent tutorial as always! What adjustment would I do for the opposite problem: all my tops slide forward and I end up with fabric bunched on the back of my neck? I've done a backward shoulder adjustment (opposite of a forward shoulder adjustment), but it hasn't helped. I am full busted (G/H sewing cup) if it makes a difference. It happens even with an appropriate FBA.
I think the issue might be that you need a square shoulder adjustment. This is adding a bit of height at the shoulder point (end of shoulder where sleeve is attached). Because you need that extra room there, your body is just lifting the shirt up a bit and that is causing the bunching at the neck (and pitching the shirt forward). Try the square shoulder and see if that helps!
I love this tutorial and come back to it often. But I have been stumped by a raglan sleeve top with a one piece sleeve, which I have the same problem with. Any ideas for a quick and easy adjustment ?
Quick and easy would be to just raise the neckline at center back and redraw it to nothing where the raglan seam attaches. You might need to shorten the neckband, but this might work!
I sat up straighter as soon as your video began, Whitney! I bet a lot of others did too! I always have to do a high round back adjustment. My mother had that curve and my son does too so maybe it's part postural and part hereditary?
Hi Whitney, a great and simple adjustment which is exactly what I need. Just one question occurs to me. I need this adjustment on the Love Notions Aria which has a yoke. Does it matter where you make that first parallel line and can I make it on the yoke piece? The line would need to be quite a bit higher than where you put in in your tutorial. TIA.
This is really great for me, but my mother has pretty advanced kyphosis (upper spine curvature) with about 4-5 inches difference between the centre back and centre front length. What technique would you suggest for alterations?
This adjustment is for the very high curve right at the base of the neck. For your mom you'd probably need to adjust over a much longer distance, besically the whole upper back. There you really need to add a center back seam, and spread the extra over the whole curvature of the back
Unagi, is correct. You could add about 1" with this method and then I would split the rest over a few more areas down center back. A center back seam is going to give her the very best fit!
Looks so easy when you do it. I always have to raise the angle of my shoulder to accommodate square shoulders. I also need to raise the armhole half an inch. Should I do this before or after the round shoulder adjustment. It doesn't look as if it matters.
@@angiebolton8635 I can definitely add that to the list. It's pretty easy though. It's just a matter of shaving off a bit of the front shoulder and then adding that amount to the back shoulder. I don't do anything to the sleeve.
Yes! You'll need to cut the "sleeve" off first (make notches so you can easily tape it back on), make the adjustment and then tape the "sleeve" back on!
Thanks, Whitney. I’m not sure if I need this adjustment, or if I’m just not using the correct size :( The discrepancy usually only happens center back on jackets/sweaters. The garment does not slide backwards. I love to sew, but I hate to alter!!! I will try this and see what happens.
No, the shoulder seams should still line up just fine! If anything, you might have to ease in just a bit of the back to the front, but this is commonly included in patterns for ease of movement so you should be fine!
Great info. How would this work with a forward shoulder adjustment. I always do a forward shoulder adjustment and a small high round back adjustment. If you need one many times you need the other.
Such a great tutorial. Thanks, Whitney! I was just wondering since you added 5/8” to the back, do you also need to add 5/8” to the front pattern piece? Thanks so much!
No. By adding the 5/8" to the back you are just raising the back neckline to up and over the high round back. It's doesn't affect the fit of the front at all.
Thank you, Whitney making my sewing so much easier. I have struggled with this adjustment for years. NOT ANY MORE! One question, if there is a back yoke do you spread the yoke only or go lower and do back only? I can’t quite picture how to get it right.
I need the rounded back adjustment and the broad back adjustment. At class you told me which one to do first, but now I can't remember. Would you please remind me.....
That’s really useful thanks Whitney and it is an adjustment that I think I could probably do with. Where would you cut if there is a yolk on the pattern. I did a toile of the Love Notions Rhapsody blouse which has a yoke as you will know as you are a fan of this pattern and the fit was ok but felt tight at the yolk seam. Could this adjustment improve that? Thanks Amanda
Is it feeling tight across the back at the seam? It could be that you need a broad back adjustment (also very typical with all the computer sitting we all do). I'm showing that adjustment next week.
I have to add a lot more than 5/8" since my neck to waist length is 21", which is 4" more than it used to be. It corresponds to my shrinkage in height of 4", as I've figured out. My back is very rounded, I am post menopausal and a breast cancer survivor of 24 years. How do I add multiple inches to this back waist length? I am at a brick wall. I've seen Linda Lee at an American Sewing Guild presentation in Sacramento, CA when I lived in northern Cal. She is amazing. Thank you.
I would add some with this method and then slash and spread in a couple of areas down the back and add 1/2" increments in various spots until you get the length you need. You'll cut from center back to the side seam and hinge at the side seam so you're adding wedges. This will create a curved back seam so you'll most likely want to add in a center back seam to your tops to accommodate this!
How do I change the shoulder slope for square shoulders, after doing this back adjustment? I need to raise my shoulder slope by 5/8" at the sleeve end.
I usually cap this adjustment at 3/4". If you need more, I would suggest doing 3/4" with this method and then splitting the remainder a bit further down center back using the slash and spread method. This will cause the center back to be curved, which means you'll need a center back seam, but if you need this much of a high round, the curved seam is going to fit your body much better.
I will have to try this alternative method as it does not matter if it is one the fold or with a back seam. BTW - what kind of semi-flexible ruler are you using?
I just rewatched this tutorial and have a question. When I redraw the back shoulder do I just line that up with the front shoulder? Or do I make an adjustment on the front as well? When sewing the front to the back shoulder seam. Hope that makes sense!
When you redraw the back shoulder you're just connecting the neckpoint to the shoulder point. You don't mess with the front at all. This may make the back a tad longer, but the back shoulder seam is often a bit longer (and a bit of easing is required) for movement. You can just ease the back into the front, if necessary.
My husband has this issue and this video is very helpful, I didn’t know how to address it. Is there a maximum amount that you would recommend for this adjustment, like less than an inch or ?
I think I wouldn't go more than 1" for this one. If you need more, I would do 1" this way and then spread the rest needed in one or more spots along center back further down.
Whitney, I made two woven croped jackets to wear over sleepless dresses. Both gap awat from the body center back and seem to be a littlshorter center back. I don't have a hump at the back center neckline , but I'm 76 lol. Do you think that high back adjustment would help?
That's ok. When sewing you will ease in the excess from the back shoulder to the front shoulder. It's normal to have the longer back shoulder than front after this adjustment.
For the high round, you can actually just make this adjustment on the yoke. Pick a spot right above the bottom of the yoke for your first "perpendicular to grain" line.
That is probably a shoulder issue and/or you have too much garment length from shoulder to bust. Does it help if you pinch out fabric at the shoulder seams? Are the armholes cut a little low? It could be that you need to shorten the top at the shoulders. This is a little tricky if you have sleeves on the top. You'll need to take them off at the top of the sleeve/shoulder seam of top, sew your shoulder seam at a larger seam allowance and then sew the sleeve cap back on. You'll most likely need to put in some ease stitches into the sleeve cap because you've shortened the bodice through that area. You'll also need to address the collar or neckline. It's hard to say without me seeing it.
I don't think I would go much higher than 1". If you need more than that, I would add a center back seam to the garment and spread the additional length needed across a couple of more spots along center back.
Hello. I am wondering what is the opposite of this adjustment? For me there’s always too much fabric in the back neck. The circle is too high up. It is not where it should rest. Thank you for your informative content.
I assume it’s a pattern sizing issue because I use the last size of the misses categories. They scale everything but it’s not correct to assume I have larger and chunkyer shoulders and neck as well. 😊 meaning that the distance between the bump of my neck and the hem of the shirt is not affected by the love handles…
Do you have excess fabric around the neck in the front? I’m wondering if you need a petite adjustment between shoulder and bust in the front and back. That would take some length out from neck point to bust/center back. You could be right that it’s mostly a grading issue. I have a video for a petite adjustment on the channel as well if you want to take a look at that!
No the front usually sits nicely. Im beginning to think I need a straight shoulder adjustment because I don’t really have a slope there. But that will not address the neck, I don’t think
@@tangorhumba3777 if that worked then great! You can also rotate that excess out at the side seam. It will create a dart, but you will treat it like doing an FBA on the princess seam. I have a video on how to do that.
I've always seen this done with spreading the center back and going to nothing at side seam forming a wedge. So you're saying it's a length issue and not a depth issue?
@@TomKatStitchery makes sense to me. And what I like is you can still put on fold without affecting the straight line of the pattern. Love this application better than the one that's been around. Thankyou for showing this different application.
It could be a square shoulder issue. You might need to raise the slope of the shoulder at the shoulder point (end of shoulder that attaches to the sleeve). Because you need the slope more straight, your end of shoulder is lifting the shirt up and causing everything to shift forward!
You actually cut off the "sleeve," do the adjustment and then add it back on. It's similar to the beginning and ending steps that you do on a dolman when you're doing an FBA on a pattern. You can see how I do that here: ua-cam.com/video/Y2i-gaahUKs/v-deo.htmlsi=uGorL7_ki_BLA03p
Well I thought this was my problem, but it creates an even greater amount of fabric at the center back. Could my issue be an erect back?? I don’t see any curving, but i have the excess at the center back.
If you have excess at center back, this usually means you need a sway back adjustment. It's actually the removable of center back length while this adjustment adds to the length.
@@chrisboyd3626 usually the sway back adjustment is needed if you are shorter from neck to waist in the back than the pattern of if you have a more prominent curve at your lower back (where you back goes into your bum). You can also get pooling in that area if you need extra room in your hips so the bodice can sit where it needs to be. Is this where you are getting the excess fabric, at your lower back?
@@TomKatStitchery yes, my back is short (my typical adjustment is 1 inch off the center back as well as two more complicated swayback adjustments), and I do have a noticeable dip before my bum. The only problem I’m having right now for the perfect silhouette is the last inch or so of the neckline tipping out when I’m standing. My hem line is perpendicular to the floor, and there is no pooling above my bum. My pattern block has a tremendous amount of adjustments! I have the upper chest measurement of a size 6 in the big four patterns, size 12 waist and a size 24 for bust and hips.
@@chrisboyd3626 I’m wondering if the neckline is too big. It’s hard to say without seeing the fitting issues, but are choosing a small size (size 6) and then doing an FBA to get to your bust (and possibly waist) needed measurement?
I spent the entire day cutting out patterns and muslins and still didn’t get it right. I checked three sources which showed me all different methods of doing this alteration; one also included creating a shoulder dart. But with your method, well, all I have to say is that my mind is blown! So very easy and quick. Thank you!
Sorry about that! I had just switched to a new phone (that I use for the overhead filming). I have solved the problem and I redo this video at some point in the future!
Whitney that adjustment is great. You don't mess up the centre fold line like other high back adjustments do.
Thanks
I'm so glad you enjoyed this one!
Thank you so much! I am 76 and am wearing a store bought tshirt that constantly rides back as do most of my shirts. Went into my sewing room, pulled out my trusty tshirt pattern from Stretch and Sew that I have used a zillion times and added 5/8 inch to the back. So easy to do! THANK YOU!
Woo hoo! I'm so glad!
I am so glad you put this up. It makes way more sense than the triangle insertion that you usually see.
Oh good!
If I had waited three days for cutting out my sister's jacket, I certainly would have used this method for High Round Back. At least, now, I can use it for mine. Thanks, Whitney, for this morning's lesson. I enjoy this so much. ~ L
I'm so glad!
My mind was blown, as you suggested. I have saved it to my sewing UA-cam playlist for future reference.
Oh good!
I have had that high round back all my life and button front shirts and v- necks were always sliding back on me. Thank you for doing this tutorial!
My pleasure!
Omg! I’ve always done the slash and spread with okay results but this is great! Headed to my studio to give it a try. Thank you for sharing!❤️
My pleasure!
Great tutorial! And I love that you can laugh at yourself when you do the kind of thing I do all of the time!
It happens frequently 😂
thank you for this easier method of doing the high round back adjustment. i have to do it on most of my patterns.
I hope it's helpful!
This is a great tutorial! I've tried various other adjustments to address whatever it is going on with my shoulders/neck/upper back.....and this adjustment was so easy and solved the lot! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I've seen other ways of doing this adjustment, Whitney, but yours is the simplest. I've just done it on the back piece for the Sew Liberated Hinterland Dress. My fabric is in the washing machine!
I'm so glad you enjoyed this!
Keep these coming all day long! Thanks.
I"m so glad you enjoyed it!
I tried this on the love notions oakley vest I turned into a jacket with quilted fabric , worked great , also did it to the yoke of my aria that i m going to use to make a shacket with .
Oh good!!
LOL I’m sitting here “Whitney, turn your piece.” 😂
😂 having the neckline in the correct spot is always good 😂.
Thank you very much
ooh so now I can do a rnd back on the fold! Excellent!
Yes you can!
Hi from England. As you say this is mindblowing! I have used many methods to do this adjustment and they have all been 'messy' This is so simple and obvious, i will use it in future. Thank you very much.
I'm so glad!
I have been using your method with much success. Now need to make this adjustment on LN Timbre which is a dolman sleeve. Scratching my head as to how to proceed.
It works the same way, the armhole just looks different in the raglan. Treat the raglan seams like you would the armscye on a regular pattern!
This is genius! I needed something for when the pattern is on the fold. So easy. Thank you.
My pleasure!
Thank you Whitney! That was a great tutorial and such an easy way to adapt the pattern.
I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Great info! You had me fooled for a second....lol
Thanks for posting!!
😂 putting the neckline back at the top always helps!
Thanks Whitney that was a light bulb moment 😁
Great!
Very good tutorial and so helpful. I was looking at how you first placed pattern on and not even pay attention to where neck was and thinking that is going to be a miracle to get it all lined up again.
😂 yes, putting the neckline back at the top of the pattern really helps with fitting 😂.
Golly, I've never seen it done that way it looks genius :D I will 100% be trying this as I always need to do a HRB adjustment.
Oh good!
Thank you Whitney. This is an alteration I have to do all the time but have never seen this way, will definitely use this method next time.
Oh good!
Now that I have severe osteoarthritis and Rheumatoid arthritis my upper back has become very rounded. Thank you for this adjustment. I can't wait to try it.
Oh good! I hope this helps!
And you are amazing, even when you tape your pattern wrong side 😁 Prayers for you and your family during a difficult time 🙏💕
😂 Yes, keeping your neckline at the top of the pattern always helps 😂.
Very interesting. This technique looks better than the technique I have been using. Thanks so much for sharing.
My pleasure!
OMG that looks so easy! thankyou for this, i'm defiantly going to try this.
Oh good!
Perfect timing on this video. I have always done the slash & spead method but was stumped when I did the LN Olympia with the grown-on collar & facing. Going to try this method next! Thanks Whitney.
Oh good!
Fabulous! Will try on my next Aria!
Oh good!
Absolutely love yr sew -
alongs and tutorials 😍.
Thank you dear .
My pleasure!
That was fabulous - thanks for showing us!!
My pleasure!
That was excellent. Thank you. I make the adjustment but I go to nothing at the armscye. But is like having more than one way to do things, so I will give this a try.
Exactly! I love knowing all the ways to do different adjustments and techniques. It just makes my sewing tool box that much bigger!
Thanks for the tutorial. Can’t wait for the broad back adjustment. I liked how you didn’t have to loose the center fold. Question, so if you’re shoulder in the back has a slight slope, do you need to adjust the front pattern to match the slope at the shoulder?
No, your front shoulder doesn't need to change. If anything changes, the back might become just a bit longer, in which case you would just ease the excess length into the front when sewing.
Great tip! Any suggestions for how to do high round back adjustment on dolman sleeve design?
I have a video on how to do an FBA on a dolman style sleeve. If you watch that, you'll see how I cut off the "sleeve", do the adjustment and then reattach. I would the same thing, but with the high round. I would cut off the "sleeve," do the high round adjustment and then tape it back on.
So glad you’ve done this. Thank you
My pleasure!
excellent, thank you and linda lee
Linda Lee is a pattern magician. I have learned so much from her online and in person classes!
Thank you, Thank you,, Thank you. What a difference, and easy..
My pleasure!
So helpful! I'm looking forward to when you do a broad shoulder adjustment/Rounded shoulder. (bad posture from being a self conscious teenager!!! Did not want to stand tall...)
I can definitely do a forward shoulder adjustment video. As far as the broad shoulder, it is the same as the narrow shoulder, you just pivot the shoulder point out instead of in. I will be doing a broad back adjustment next week, though!
This is a very easy adjustment as you say and very well explained. What happens when there is a 2 inch deficit? I am making a stretch top for a friend and her back is very rounded at the upper 6 inches only. Any tips would be appreciated.
I would suggest doing no more than 5/8" using this method. For the remaining 1 3/8", I would slash and spread the pattern a bit further down and create a wedge of the 1 3/8". This will require a center back seam as the seam will have quite a bit of curve, but that will give her the best fit with a rounded back!
I have found some patterns pull back on me and some don't but I am going to try this on my next pattern and see if it helps. Thank you so much.
Oh good!
That is great! I do have to make that adjustment (that spine deformation is genetic in my family) but all the ones I know about don't work that well. I'll put this one to the test right now. Thank you so much.
Oh good! I hope it's helpful!
This is great! I'd be interested in how you'd do this with a yoke. I'm going to try doing this adjustment all on the yoke piece 🤔. If you also need a forward shoulder adjustment, what order would you do things in? Thank you!!!
If you have a yoke, this will be done just on the yoke! I would do this first and then the forward shoulder.
@@TomKatStitchery thank you!! ❤️🪡🧵
Thank you Whitney, very helpful!
My pleasure!
I have to do a high rounded back adjustment, this is a little different than what I do , so I will try this too. I ve had it all my life but of course is more noticeable as we age .sometimes the neckline does stand out but mainly pulls my tops back
I hope you do try this. I'd love to know how you like it!
Hi, I am amazed at your extensive sewing knowledge and thankful that you are sharing it. ❤I am trying to change a puffed sleeve back to a normal set in sleeve. Have you done a tutorial on that? I have looked everywhere on the internet and in books and they only explain how to add a puff to a normal sleeve. Thanks for any suggestion or help. Sharon
Is it for a knit pattern or a woven pattern? I would measure the armscye (front and back), then do the slash and spread method, except you will be slashing and overlapping to get the sleeve cap back to set in sleeve. If you are using a knit, I would make the sleeve cap length the same length as the armscye measurement. If it's a woven pattern, I would make the sleeve cap length 1/2"-3/4" longer than the armscye length because it will need that ease for movement.
thanks a million! I will give it a try on a toile. @@TomKatStitchery
Excellent tutorial as always! What adjustment would I do for the opposite problem: all my tops slide forward and I end up with fabric bunched on the back of my neck? I've done a backward shoulder adjustment (opposite of a forward shoulder adjustment), but it hasn't helped. I am full busted (G/H sewing cup) if it makes a difference. It happens even with an appropriate FBA.
I have the same problem. I'd like to know this too❣️💟
I think the issue might be that you need a square shoulder adjustment. This is adding a bit of height at the shoulder point (end of shoulder where sleeve is attached). Because you need that extra room there, your body is just lifting the shirt up a bit and that is causing the bunching at the neck (and pitching the shirt forward). Try the square shoulder and see if that helps!
I love this tutorial and come back to it often. But I have been stumped by a raglan sleeve top with a one piece sleeve, which I have the same problem with. Any ideas for a quick and easy adjustment ?
Quick and easy would be to just raise the neckline at center back and redraw it to nothing where the raglan seam attaches. You might need to shorten the neckband, but this might work!
This is wonderful, thank you. I am eager to try this out on a muslin.
Oh good!
Anxious to try this. This method leaves the center back seam straight. Other methods distort that back seam. Thank you!
Linda Lee is a pattern drafting and altering genius. My mind was blown when I learned this method. It's the best!
I sat up straighter as soon as your video began, Whitney! I bet a lot of others did too! I always have to do a high round back adjustment. My mother had that curve and my son does too so maybe it's part postural and part hereditary?
It could definitely be hereditary.
Fantastic! Thanks Whitney
My pleasure!
Hi Whitney, a great and simple adjustment which is exactly what I need. Just one question occurs to me. I need this adjustment on the Love Notions Aria which has a yoke. Does it matter where you make that first parallel line and can I make it on the yoke piece? The line would need to be quite a bit higher than where you put in in your tutorial. TIA.
I would absolutely do this adjustment on the yoke and just on the yoke for the Aria!
@@TomKatStitchery That's what I was hoping. Thank you so much.
Hi, from Germany. Thank you so much. Really helpful. I always have to do this. No adjustment on the front piece needed , is that right?
I'm so glad this was helpful! You are correct, there is no adjustment on the front!
Thank you for this! The top I’m making has a full separate lining piece. Do I simply do the exact same adjustment to the lining piece? Thanks again!
Yes. You will do the same thing to the lining.
This is really great for me, but my mother has pretty advanced kyphosis (upper spine curvature) with about 4-5 inches difference between the centre back and centre front length. What technique would you suggest for alterations?
This adjustment is for the very high curve right at the base of the neck. For your mom you'd probably need to adjust over a much longer distance, besically the whole upper back. There you really need to add a center back seam, and spread the extra over the whole curvature of the back
Unagi, is correct. You could add about 1" with this method and then I would split the rest over a few more areas down center back. A center back seam is going to give her the very best fit!
Looks so easy when you do it. I always have to raise the angle of my shoulder to accommodate square shoulders. I also need to raise the armhole half an inch. Should I do this before or after the round shoulder adjustment. It doesn't look as if it matters.
I'm not sure that it matters, but in my head I think I would do the high round and then do the shoulder and armhole adjustments.
Interesting way to do this. I’ve always just hinged it at the armscye. Of course I only need about 3/8 to 1/2 inch generally.
There are quite a few different ways to do this adjustment, this was just seemed like magic when I learned it 😂.
This is brilliant. When you redraw the shoulder, does that fix forward shoulder at the same time?
It can fix a bit of the forward shoulder. I would start with this adjustment first and then see if you need an additional forward shoulder!
@@TomKatStitchery thank you so much. I am have terrible trouble with fitting, but am persevering !
thank you@@TomKatStitchery
Hi Whitney I've tried this adjustment today and it actually worked. Could you do a forward shoulder adjustment tutorial to go with it please? Thanks
I'm so glad!
Hi could you do a forward shoulder tutorial please? X
@@angiebolton8635 I can definitely add that to the list. It's pretty easy though. It's just a matter of shaving off a bit of the front shoulder and then adding that amount to the back shoulder. I don't do anything to the sleeve.
Hi Whitney me again, how would I do the high back adjustment on a yoke? Would it be the same process? Thanks 😊
@@angiebolton8635 with a yoke, this just gets made on the yoke piece only!
Would this method also work for a grown on sleeve?? It looks super simple! Thanks 😊
Yes! You'll need to cut the "sleeve" off first (make notches so you can easily tape it back on), make the adjustment and then tape the "sleeve" back on!
@@TomKatStitchery thank you so much!!
Thanks, Whitney. I’m not sure if I need this adjustment, or if I’m just not using the correct size :( The discrepancy usually only happens center back on jackets/sweaters. The garment does not slide backwards. I love to sew, but I hate to alter!!! I will try this and see what happens.
If you are getting the gaping at the back neck, I would try this and see if it helps!
@@TomKatStitchery I will give it a try, and report back :) Thanks, Whitney! Happy Monday!!!
I love this way of adjusting for a high round back! Does this alter how the shoulder seams will align with the front piece?
No, the shoulder seams should still line up just fine! If anything, you might have to ease in just a bit of the back to the front, but this is commonly included in patterns for ease of movement so you should be fine!
Great info. How would this work with a forward shoulder adjustment. I always do a forward shoulder adjustment and a small high round back adjustment. If you need one many times you need the other.
I would do this one first and then do your forward shoulder adjustment.
Such a great tutorial. Thanks, Whitney! I was just wondering since you added 5/8” to the back, do you also need to add 5/8” to the front pattern piece? Thanks so much!
No. By adding the 5/8" to the back you are just raising the back neckline to up and over the high round back. It's doesn't affect the fit of the front at all.
Great video! Is this mostly for woven fabrics or can it be used on knits also?
It can be used on wovens but with smaller incremental adjustments because the knits stretch
Great tip!! Thank you!!
Have a great rest of your week! :+)
Thank you so much! You have a great week as well!
@@TomKatStitchery You are welcome, and thank you! :+)
Thank you, Whitney making my sewing so much easier. I have struggled with this adjustment for years. NOT ANY MORE! One question, if there is a back yoke do you spread the yoke only or go lower and do back only? I can’t quite picture how to get it right.
If you need 1" or less, I would just do it on the yoke piece.
So if you have a facing you would take out the extra on the shoulder to make the seam more steep? This is going to be really helpful!
If you have a facing, I would redraw the shoulder to make it match the back. In fact, I would probably just redraft a new facing (it might be easier).
@@TomKatStitchery Basically just follow the new line for the shoulder seam with the same depth of fabric as the original facing to make the new one...
@@cecilehoare3053 yep!
I need the rounded back adjustment and the broad back adjustment. At class you told me which one to do first, but now I can't remember. Would you please remind me.....
I like to do my vertical ones first (i.e rounded back) and then my horizontal ones (broad back).
That’s really useful thanks Whitney and it is an adjustment that I think I could probably do with. Where would you cut if there is a yolk on the pattern. I did a toile of the Love Notions Rhapsody blouse which has a yoke as you will know as you are a fan of this pattern and the fit was ok but felt tight at the yolk seam. Could this adjustment improve that? Thanks Amanda
Is it feeling tight across the back at the seam? It could be that you need a broad back adjustment (also very typical with all the computer sitting we all do). I'm showing that adjustment next week.
@@TomKatStitchery Thanks Whitney I shall keep an eye out for that one.
I have to add a lot more than 5/8" since my neck to waist length is 21", which is 4" more than it used to be. It corresponds to my shrinkage in height of 4", as I've figured out. My back is very rounded, I am post menopausal and a breast cancer survivor of 24 years. How do I add multiple inches to this back waist length? I am at a brick wall. I've seen Linda Lee at an American Sewing Guild presentation in Sacramento, CA when I lived in northern Cal. She is amazing. Thank you.
I would add some with this method and then slash and spread in a couple of areas down the back and add 1/2" increments in various spots until you get the length you need. You'll cut from center back to the side seam and hinge at the side seam so you're adding wedges. This will create a curved back seam so you'll most likely want to add in a center back seam to your tops to accommodate this!
How do I change the shoulder slope for square shoulders, after doing this back adjustment?
I need to raise my shoulder slope by 5/8" at the sleeve end.
I would do the square shoulder adjustment first and then do this high round adjustment.
you speak of 5/8" adjustment - I need 2" - 2.5 inch adjustment - would this work w/ this as a solution - I can see the shoulder line being a problem
I usually cap this adjustment at 3/4". If you need more, I would suggest doing 3/4" with this method and then splitting the remainder a bit further down center back using the slash and spread method. This will cause the center back to be curved, which means you'll need a center back seam, but if you need this much of a high round, the curved seam is going to fit your body much better.
I will have to try this alternative method as it does not matter if it is one the fold or with a back seam. BTW - what kind of semi-flexible ruler are you using?
My blue ruler is just a 2x18" quilting ruler. It doesn't lie as flat as it used to 😂.
How would this work with a yoke back, such as the Band Camp shirt from LN?
You would do this adjustment just on the yoke piece.
I just rewatched this tutorial and have a question. When I redraw the back shoulder do I just line that up with the front shoulder? Or do I make an adjustment on the front as well? When sewing the front to the back shoulder seam. Hope that makes sense!
When you redraw the back shoulder you're just connecting the neckpoint to the shoulder point. You don't mess with the front at all. This may make the back a tad longer, but the back shoulder seam is often a bit longer (and a bit of easing is required) for movement. You can just ease the back into the front, if necessary.
My husband has this issue and this video is very helpful, I didn’t know how to address it. Is there a maximum amount that you would recommend for this adjustment, like less than an inch or ?
I think I wouldn't go more than 1" for this one. If you need more, I would do 1" this way and then spread the rest needed in one or more spots along center back further down.
Whitney, I made two woven croped jackets to wear over sleepless dresses. Both gap awat from the body center back and seem to be a littlshorter center back. I don't have a hump at the back center neckline , but I'm 76 lol. Do you think that high back adjustment would help?
I would definitely try this. It could be that your body is just pitching forward a bit more so the fabric has just a bit further to travel.
I have just done this on my pattern but the front piece across the shoulder doesn’t match. How do I fix this
That's ok. When sewing you will ease in the excess from the back shoulder to the front shoulder. It's normal to have the longer back shoulder than front after this adjustment.
If the back pattern piece is a yoke. Where would make the cut for this adjustment?
For the high round, you can actually just make this adjustment on the yoke. Pick a spot right above the bottom of the yoke for your first "perpendicular to grain" line.
How can I adjust a ready to wear store bought blouse from sliding up in front and bunching at the back of my neck
That is probably a shoulder issue and/or you have too much garment length from shoulder to bust. Does it help if you pinch out fabric at the shoulder seams? Are the armholes cut a little low? It could be that you need to shorten the top at the shoulders. This is a little tricky if you have sleeves on the top. You'll need to take them off at the top of the sleeve/shoulder seam of top, sew your shoulder seam at a larger seam allowance and then sew the sleeve cap back on. You'll most likely need to put in some ease stitches into the sleeve cap because you've shortened the bodice through that area. You'll also need to address the collar or neckline. It's hard to say without me seeing it.
If i have a shirt with a yoke, can I just do this on the yoke?
Yes. If you have a yoke, you'll just do this on the yoke piece.
Thank you Whitney. BTW, how high can you raise this adjustment?
I don't think I would go much higher than 1". If you need more than that, I would add a center back seam to the garment and spread the additional length needed across a couple of more spots along center back.
Thank you!
Hello. I am wondering what is the opposite of this adjustment? For me there’s always too much fabric in the back neck. The circle is too high up. It is not where it should rest. Thank you for your informative content.
So the back neck is coming up too high?
Yes. There’s a good inch of fabric past the tip of the bump/bone.
I assume it’s a pattern sizing issue because I use the last size of the misses categories. They scale everything but it’s not correct to assume I have larger and chunkyer shoulders and neck as well. 😊 meaning that the distance between the bump of my neck and the hem of the shirt is not affected by the love handles…
Do you have excess fabric around the neck in the front? I’m wondering if you need a petite adjustment between shoulder and bust in the front and back. That would take some length out from neck point to bust/center back. You could be right that it’s mostly a grading issue. I have a video for a petite adjustment on the channel as well if you want to take a look at that!
No the front usually sits nicely. Im beginning to think I need a straight shoulder adjustment because I don’t really have a slope there. But that will not address the neck, I don’t think
Thank you so much for this. I’m betting this is why I stay away from boxy style tops. They look strange at that back hemline.
Glad it was helpful!
what about gapping on the armhole ? how do you get rid of that with a rounded back adjustment when the pattern is for a princess seam top?
Many thanks
Where is the gaping occurring in the armhole?
@@TomKatStitchery mid armhole on front
I did the round back adjustment and that worked great. i just fiddled with the front until it was ? Better
@@tangorhumba3777 if that worked then great! You can also rotate that excess out at the side seam. It will create a dart, but you will treat it like doing an FBA on the princess seam. I have a video on how to do that.
After making this adjustment, does it help the lengeth to not hike u;p?
Are you having issues with it riding up in the back or the front?
What if it has a collar? Does it get messed up
Nope! Since you aren't changing the neckline itself at all, just raising it up, the collar will still fit in as intended.
Saving!
Oh good!
I've always seen this done with spreading the center back and going to nothing at side seam forming a wedge. So you're saying it's a length issue and not a depth issue?
For this one, it’s a length issue.
@@TomKatStitchery makes sense to me. And what I like is you can still put on fold without affecting the straight line of the pattern. Love this application better than the one that's been around. Thankyou for showing this different application.
What does it mean when things shift to the front? My necklines end up too low.
It could be a square shoulder issue. You might need to raise the slope of the shoulder at the shoulder point (end of shoulder that attaches to the sleeve). Because you need the slope more straight, your end of shoulder is lifting the shirt up and causing everything to shift forward!
@@TomKatStitchery Thank you. I will try that.
How does this work with a raglan like the LaBella Donna
Excuse me.. I know it is a dolman sleeve.
You actually cut off the "sleeve," do the adjustment and then add it back on. It's similar to the beginning and ending steps that you do on a dolman when you're doing an FBA on a pattern. You can see how I do that here: ua-cam.com/video/Y2i-gaahUKs/v-deo.htmlsi=uGorL7_ki_BLA03p
What kind of paper r u using for the pattern
I use medical exam paper (like what you sit on at the doctor's office) that I get off of Amazon.
Well I thought this was my problem, but it creates an even greater amount of fabric at the center back. Could my issue be an erect back?? I don’t see any curving, but i have the excess at the center back.
If you have excess at center back, this usually means you need a sway back adjustment. It's actually the removable of center back length while this adjustment adds to the length.
@@TomKatStitchery yes. I always do 2 swayback adjustments. I have a very straight back…
@@chrisboyd3626 usually the sway back adjustment is needed if you are shorter from neck to waist in the back than the pattern of if you have a more prominent curve at your lower back (where you back goes into your bum). You can also get pooling in that area if you need extra room in your hips so the bodice can sit where it needs to be. Is this where you are getting the excess fabric, at your lower back?
@@TomKatStitchery yes, my back is short (my typical adjustment is 1 inch off the center back as well as two more complicated swayback adjustments), and I do have a noticeable dip before my bum. The only problem I’m having right now for the perfect silhouette is the last inch or so of the neckline tipping out when I’m standing. My hem line is perpendicular to the floor, and there is no pooling above my bum. My pattern block has a tremendous amount of adjustments! I have the upper chest measurement of a size 6 in the big four patterns, size 12 waist and a size 24 for bust and hips.
@@chrisboyd3626 I’m wondering if the neckline is too big. It’s hard to say without seeing the fitting issues, but are choosing a small size (size 6) and then doing an FBA to get to your bust (and possibly waist) needed measurement?
I spent the entire day cutting out patterns and muslins and still didn’t get it right. I checked three sources which showed me all different methods of doing this alteration; one also included creating a shoulder dart. But with your method, well, all I have to say is that my mind is blown! So very easy and quick. Thank you!
Wonderful to hear! I'm glad you found the method that works!
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Thank you! Video would be easier and more pleasant to follow without the mistakes in it, but useful all the same 👍🏻
Sorry about that! I had just switched to a new phone (that I use for the overhead filming). I have solved the problem and I redo this video at some point in the future!
I like it when you make mistakes so I do not have to make them