Great review as always! Just one criticism: - Reviewers: “it’s hard to tell the print quality in the video because I printed in white PLA” - Also reviewers: *prints in white PLA to assess print quality of a new machine*
Can you print small detailed things? I plan to get a 3d printer to print small tires for small diecast trucks. Do you think it would be able to print that smoothly and also capture the tire tread, etc?
It's a good printer. Got mine this last Friday. It prints even better with PLA+. I tweaked the settings. I'm using AnyCubic's slicer. I'm working on Prusa and CURA to make profiles for them by taking the settings from anycubic slicer. The stringing you're getting is temp too high. PLA will print perfect at 195C.
Thanks for sharing! i try not to change any parameters in the slicer when doing reviews so its more indicative of what a beginner will see with stock settings. but yes especially with the volcano style hotend lower is better! thanks for watching!
I just got this printer and am using esun PLA+ but have not been getting a good print. Do you mind if I contact you through discord or somewhere else to ask some questions?
Cool. Elegoo is about to release some Klipper printers next month. When I used Klipper some of my prints started to get these extra lines like more Z seams. After searching around I found that installing ar welder helped fix those issues.
Can’t wait for some fast elegoo machines! It’ll be Interesting to see these companies different approaches to fast printing. And thanks for the tip on arcwelder, I’ll probably just keep it in my profiles from now on, couldn’t hurt haha.
I'm loving this printer Joel. I've always been a big Anycubic fan. It won't be long before there is some sort z axis upgrade like we saw on the original cr10. I'm pretty sure that would eliminate any ringing.
Thanks Tony! I found the z axis to hold up pretty well through testing so I’m not sure if it needs the second stepper. I’m sure we will see this on other machines moving forward. Vibration compensation with klipper would solve the ringing for sure! Thanks for watching!
@@WildRoseBuilds No worries bud. I've not used Klipper, I've always used th3d. Being Arduino based, I'm very familiar with the settings. I can print at a very good quality 100mm/s but it is an old cr10s. I like the new roller system. No flat spots 👍
@@WildRoseBuildsI don't get ringing on mine. I was getting ghosting but I stopped it by reducing speed on parameters to 115mm/s. Infill at 175mm/s to make up for speed on parameters. It's in the inside of the party where it isn't seen. So a tiny bit of slop is okay. I actually saw a speed increase while increasing quality. Only a few seconds but it's still better than a few seconds longer. Also I reduced the speed it prints the top layer at, so that the print is smooth like a 50mm/s print, but at 80mm/s. I didn't get it to run max speed prints everytime, but to be faster at high print quality. You'll notice that big difference when you do a model at 0.12mm layer height in 2.5 hours instead of 10. It does seem like the prints are stronger though. That might be the volcano extruder though. It needs some tweaking, but it will be a good production machine. It does set the z-offset when it auto levels, but it does need fine tuned. It is easier than a Kobra neo or mk3.
After a couple of prints the Y Stepper motor started making noise. Putting this here to see if it is a common problem, I gather this is a non standard part so something they have not used before.
You fail to talk about the nozzle issue. This hot end uses a non-standard Volcano nozzle... In fact, we should not say Volcano as it is not one. A real deal breaker for us. We can't find suppliers for this weird type of nozzle so will probably end-up returning the multiple Kobra2 we purchased for our print farm.
@@WildRoseBuilds The nozzle is custom made by Anycubic. The first 1.2mm are not threaded. It's a milled 4mm diameter cylinder met to act as a male part. When you screw the nozzle, it actually inserts itself into the heat bloc. If you try to use a generic Volcano nozzle, it will not screw completely.
Seems like a good option. I want to buy one and use it with my 12y old son. But he is very sensitive to smells, chemical , and floating allergens or particles. Do you know if there is health risk during printing like chemicals, VOC, micro plastic particles in the air. I hope you have a comment. Tks
This video, among all, was the one that particularly convinced me to buy this printer. I will say I'm a happy camper so far! Loving this printer, and even better, it didn't break the bank! 🙂 Thanks for this review @WildRoseBuilds!
@WildRoseBuilds: This is my very first printer; so far I haven't had any problems with it, except one time where a relatively tall piece became "unstuck" from the bed, probably from all the shaking at high speed. I fixed that by increasing the bed temp to 65 degrees on the next print and by creating a raft so it would attach better to the bed. I've been viewing several videos that help with setting the offset; so far, I just go with auto-bed leveling after a firmware update and go with that. What's the procedure to better tune the z-offset on these? Do you happen to have a video on the same, or perhaps point me to one?
I was looking into buying this machine as my first ever 3d printer. Are there things I need to look out for, things I need to buy extra or be careful off? Very helpful review, thank you very much for the info!
I started out with a delta and later added a cartesian. The deltas print quality is very poor compared to the cartesian at similar speeds. Also, the delta is much more challenging to tune imo, especially when trying to print fast. The faster you print that worse the print gets. I'm not a high level Klipper/BOM/2020 extrusion only/Voron 3D user, but the cartesian is my go to printer for quality prints at higher speeds.
@@baxrok2. Yeah while I love my deltas, they are hard to tune in the sense to get exact size. What I mean is that when I print big, I find that the size can be off, even with exact length rods. So I don't use my deltas for prints that require very precise sizes.,
@@iamthebest22 Yup, that is my experience too. 99% of what I print are small functional prints with holes in them. Probably the worst combination for a delta. I thought I was going to lose my mind tuning that crap out. Then I got a cartesian and that changed everything. So I use the delta for prototypes and the cartesian for finished prints. Overall though, my delta days are over.
@@baxrok2. exactly why I never got one. I knew a couple that made money with their delta by printing life-sized scans of people’s heads and faces, but I’m a prototyper and need accuracy with both small holes & features and large parts.
another cool video...wich your favorite betwen the kobra 2 and neptune 4 pro in terms of print quality? the bed leveling of 4 pro compare to kobra2? huge thanks
to identify, the easiest way is to look at top flat surface of your prints, they will be rough to touch and you should be able to see filament displaced by the nozzle. to fix it you can simply lower the flow rate in cura. the more complex way to fix it is by tuning your extruder e steps. hope that helps!
Most fdm models are optimized to not use supports as they usually leave a poor surface finish compared to the minimal scarring that resin printing supports leave.
congrats on the new printer! the simple fix for over extrusion is adjusting the e steps or the flow rate in the slicer. i have a video on tuning the elegoo neptune 3 pro that would help you tune this machine as well. Klipper is an open source software that runs on a secondary board to handle faster printing. the results of this machine at 150mm/s are pretty good so i would get comfortable printing at that speed before you dive into klipper. thanks for watching!
@@WildRoseBuilds Thank you. I had the first version of the anycubic Kobra go, but I was having clogging issues. then I didn't heat it up to take the nozzle out and snapped it off. Hopefully, this one goes better. Ha!
Yes input shaping would help for sure, I think that’s in a planned firmware release. Hopefully when I have some time I can plug this guy into my klipper pi. Linear or pressure advance would probably boost some speeds here too. Thanks for watching.
Does this have an all metal hotend or the ability to upgrade the heat break? I like to print higher temp plastics and I read the hotend is non-standard so that would be a deal breaker for me if it can't print at least 275° C.
i think they market this as up to 300C. of course you can swap the heat break and the heatblock for a more favorable one. people say the nozzles are non standard but theyre just volcano nozzles missing a few threads at the top, i'm sure by now someone is selling them on amazon.
I was going to buy the Elegoo Neptune 3 pro but then I saw this Anycubic. Which of the 2 would you recommend? Considerand that they have almost 100$ of difference
I think nobody noticed. Same with linear advance for standalone drivers (creality MB). Free quality improvements, but rather spend endless time doing temp and retraction tests. Thats the current situation
I didn’t dig too deep in the firmware on this one so I can’t say if it has input shaping enabled in the firmware. I’m sure that’ll come in time from either the community or anycubic themselves. Thanks for watching!
@@kilianlindlbauer8277 that would make this printer a really great value machine. I tend not to include features the manufacturer says are “coming”. In the case of the AnkerMake that would be like all it’s features haha
@@kilianlindlbauer8277 I’ll believe it when I see it. I like what they did with this printer. The steel wheels, the timing belt, the oversized fan. All fantastic. But you’re at their mercy firmware wise. And they already have your money so what incentive do they have to spend time/money to update it. I stayed away from the kobra because it didn’t have linear advance. I don’t know if they ever updated it.
If 3D printers were popular in the '80s the GUI on this one would be what you would get on a Soviet printer, It's awful! but the printer quality more than makes up for it, such a pity!
Did this make a God awful screaching noise at speeds above 150mm/s due to vibration? And why did the colour of the hot end change? Is it just the lighting?
Добрый день , хотел бы попросить помощи у вас , решил приобрести данный принтер для знакомства с 3d печатью но с присетами скорости и качества сложно разобраться нормально , нет ли у вас пары вариантов для понимая вопроса ?
we all want one, but just remember, if you get this or any other printer from anycubic, no parts and no support so your new shiny printer will be useless very soon
What parts are you talking about? Also "very soon" been printing on my cobra max for over a year almost none stop only things changed: nozzle after a while and everyone should use steel reinforced belts from gates
I call bs on this statement. I have had a vyper over a year, gotten pars under warranty very quickly and good support. So your statement is without fact. The SD card slot broke, they send me a whole new logic board. I had an issue with a motor and then sent me a full set of motors. Turned out the connector was loose - they said " keep the motors.
I have had mine for only one month and had a power issue, anycubic communicated through email and sent everthing I needed. I can not complain except I would like to be able to speak to a person. I love my fun printer!
Buyers : be carefull. Printers that are sent to youtubers are well mount and configured. I've received mine and all axes are lose and z belt is about to fall of the axes. i'm going to modify all theses default and begin to test print in 2 or 3 days. But disapointed about this new printer
This is simply untrue. all machines I've ever received come sealed from the factory. I highly doubt they have time to open boxes, assemble, and tune machines before sending them to reviewers. That being said most machines i receive need some amount of adjusting, this one however did not. just part of the manufacturing lottery.
@@WildRoseBuilds Youre really naive if you think that they can send machine, that can be view by thousand of potential buyer, not verified or tuned But it's your bisness, so if you emit wrong argument on printer, no more free material
Great review as always!
Just one criticism:
- Reviewers: “it’s hard to tell the print quality in the video because I printed in white PLA”
- Also reviewers: *prints in white PLA to assess print quality of a new machine*
Hahah yeah agreed, the blue was much more telling. Thanks for the feedback :)
@@WildRoseBuilds use matte gray filament for quality check. Easiest to see the details.
I'm a beginner, this is my first printer I got for Christmas. I can confirm it was very easy to get set up and started on.
Can you print small detailed things? I plan to get a 3d printer to print small tires for small diecast trucks. Do you think it would be able to print that smoothly and also capture the tire tread, etc?
Does it work the same after half an year
Yeah it does. I had to replace the nozzle but it's still going strong.
This is the most informative review of the printer that I've found so far. Well done.
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback:)
I totally agree! Will definitely be back for more reviews!
I really want one of these now :D
Once again, you deliver an excellent, comprehensive and visually appealing review, made more so by your pleasant voice, delivery and speaking style.🎉
Thanks I appreciate that!!! :)
@@WildRoseBuilds You are very welcome. Keep up the great work. We such pleasant experiences even as we learn about such freeing technology.
It's a good printer. Got mine this last Friday. It prints even better with PLA+. I tweaked the settings. I'm using AnyCubic's slicer. I'm working on Prusa and CURA to make profiles for them by taking the settings from anycubic slicer. The stringing you're getting is temp too high. PLA will print perfect at 195C.
Thanks for sharing! i try not to change any parameters in the slicer when doing reviews so its more indicative of what a beginner will see with stock settings. but yes especially with the volcano style hotend lower is better! thanks for watching!
I just got this printer and am using esun PLA+ but have not been getting a good print. Do you mind if I contact you through discord or somewhere else to ask some questions?
I couldnt find Kobra 2 profile on Cura which one did you use?
Wow this is a actually a pretty solid printer.
agreed!
Cool. Elegoo is about to release some Klipper printers next month.
When I used Klipper some of my prints started to get these extra lines like more Z seams. After searching around I found that installing ar welder helped fix those issues.
Can’t wait for some fast elegoo machines! It’ll be Interesting to see these companies different approaches to fast printing. And thanks for the tip on arcwelder, I’ll probably just keep it in my profiles from now on, couldn’t hurt haha.
@@WildRoseBuilds would love a with/without arcwelder comparison video :)
And with *not* white filament… 😉
😂😂😂
If yuo use klipper , calibrate linear advanca and input shaping , in marlin , too
I'm loving this printer Joel. I've always been a big Anycubic fan. It won't be long before there is some sort z axis upgrade like we saw on the original cr10. I'm pretty sure that would eliminate any ringing.
Thanks Tony! I found the z axis to hold up pretty well through testing so I’m not sure if it needs the second stepper. I’m sure we will see this on other machines moving forward. Vibration compensation with klipper would solve the ringing for sure! Thanks for watching!
@@WildRoseBuilds No worries bud. I've not used Klipper, I've always used th3d. Being Arduino based, I'm very familiar with the settings. I can print at a very good quality 100mm/s but it is an old cr10s. I like the new roller system. No flat spots 👍
The ringing is likely caused by vibrations on the Y, or X, not on Z.
@@WildRoseBuildsIndependent dual Z axis would be better than the sync belt, I have G34 active on my Ender 5 plus machines and its a great help!
@@WildRoseBuildsI don't get ringing on mine. I was getting ghosting but I stopped it by reducing speed on parameters to 115mm/s. Infill at 175mm/s to make up for speed on parameters. It's in the inside of the party where it isn't seen. So a tiny bit of slop is okay. I actually saw a speed increase while increasing quality. Only a few seconds but it's still better than a few seconds longer. Also I reduced the speed it prints the top layer at, so that the print is smooth like a 50mm/s print, but at 80mm/s. I didn't get it to run max speed prints everytime, but to be faster at high print quality. You'll notice that big difference when you do a model at 0.12mm layer height in 2.5 hours instead of 10. It does seem like the prints are stronger though. That might be the volcano extruder though. It needs some tweaking, but it will be a good production machine. It does set the z-offset when it auto levels, but it does need fine tuned. It is easier than a Kobra neo or mk3.
gonna cop this cause of this review, thanks!
Great topic, thanks
After a couple of prints the Y Stepper motor started making noise. Putting this here to see if it is a common problem, I gather this is a non standard part so something they have not used before.
Interesting? Is it a loose grub screw on the pulley??
You fail to talk about the nozzle issue.
This hot end uses a non-standard Volcano nozzle... In fact, we should not say Volcano as it is not one.
A real deal breaker for us. We can't find suppliers for this weird type of nozzle so will probably end-up returning the multiple Kobra2 we purchased for our print farm.
can you define non standard? judging by the nozzle length and thread i assumed it was the same volcano clone that they shipped with the kobra max?
@@WildRoseBuilds The nozzle is custom made by Anycubic. The first 1.2mm are not threaded. It's a milled 4mm diameter cylinder met to act as a male part. When you screw the nozzle, it actually inserts itself into the heat bloc. If you try to use a generic Volcano nozzle, it will not screw completely.
Seems like a good option. I want to buy one and use it with my 12y old son. But he is very sensitive to smells, chemical , and floating allergens or particles. Do you know if there is health risk during printing like chemicals, VOC, micro plastic particles in the air.
I hope you have a comment.
Tks
This video, among all, was the one that particularly convinced me to buy this printer. I will say I'm a happy camper so far! Loving this printer, and even better, it didn't break the bank! 🙂 Thanks for this review @WildRoseBuilds!
@WildRoseBuilds: This is my very first printer; so far I haven't had any problems with it, except one time where a relatively tall piece became "unstuck" from the bed, probably from all the shaking at high speed. I fixed that by increasing the bed temp to 65 degrees on the next print and by creating a raft so it would attach better to the bed.
I've been viewing several videos that help with setting the offset; so far, I just go with auto-bed leveling after a firmware update and go with that. What's the procedure to better tune the z-offset on these? Do you happen to have a video on the same, or perhaps point me to one?
Fantastic review. Any plans to review the Kobra 2 Max?
I was looking into buying this machine as my first ever 3d printer. Are there things I need to look out for, things I need to buy extra or be careful off? Very helpful review, thank you very much for the info!
Thanks for watching! I’d jump over to my first look of the Neptune 4 if you’re buying a new machine ;)
Did you buy the printer? if yes, any comments please?
it's funny how they're trying to make these style printers print fast when we have deltas. but i cant hate on them for trying.
yeah i think its harder to hit this price point with a delta. thanks for watching :)
I started out with a delta and later added a cartesian. The deltas print quality is very poor compared to the cartesian at similar speeds. Also, the delta is much more challenging to tune imo, especially when trying to print fast. The faster you print that worse the print gets. I'm not a high level Klipper/BOM/2020 extrusion only/Voron 3D user, but the cartesian is my go to printer for quality prints at higher speeds.
@@baxrok2. Yeah while I love my deltas, they are hard to tune in the sense to get exact size. What I mean is that when I print big, I find that the size can be off, even with exact length rods. So I don't use my deltas for prints that require very precise sizes.,
@@iamthebest22 Yup, that is my experience too. 99% of what I print are small functional prints with holes in them. Probably the worst combination for a delta. I thought I was going to lose my mind tuning that crap out. Then I got a cartesian and that changed everything. So I use the delta for prototypes and the cartesian for finished prints. Overall though, my delta days are over.
@@baxrok2. exactly why I never got one.
I knew a couple that made money with their delta by printing life-sized scans of people’s heads and faces, but I’m a prototyper and need accuracy with both small holes & features and large parts.
another cool video...wich your favorite betwen the kobra 2 and neptune 4 pro in terms of print quality? the bed leveling of 4 pro compare to kobra2? huge thanks
i have two questions. 1: how can you identify over extrusion and how can you correct it? I bought this unit and may be having this issue.
to identify, the easiest way is to look at top flat surface of your prints, they will be rough to touch and you should be able to see filament displaced by the nozzle. to fix it you can simply lower the flow rate in cura. the more complex way to fix it is by tuning your extruder e steps. hope that helps!
Nice!
I'm new to FDM, have normally used resin printers. Why do most people print without supports?
Most fdm models are optimized to not use supports as they usually leave a poor surface finish compared to the minimal scarring that resin printing supports leave.
Waiting for the Kobra 2 Max 300mm x 300mm
Im a huge anycibic fan. How faster is this printer compared to the anycubic mega s?
I’m still new to this and ordered this one yesterday. What’s the simple fix for over-extrusion you mention? Also what’s a clipper install?
congrats on the new printer! the simple fix for over extrusion is adjusting the e steps or the flow rate in the slicer. i have a video on tuning the elegoo neptune 3 pro that would help you tune this machine as well. Klipper is an open source software that runs on a secondary board to handle faster printing. the results of this machine at 150mm/s are pretty good so i would get comfortable printing at that speed before you dive into klipper. thanks for watching!
@@WildRoseBuilds Thank you. I had the first version of the anycubic Kobra go, but I was having clogging issues. then I didn't heat it up to take the nozzle out and snapped it off. Hopefully, this one goes better. Ha!
What layer height are you using here? I heard the printer supports 0.04mm but barely anyone seems to be using it, from the looks of things.
Does it have auto resuming?
Are you going to use this now for your timelapses or the Neptune 3 pro is still better quality?
i would use this but i have the elegoo neptune 4 pro now which is better quality than both.
@@WildRoseBuilds A nice can't wait for the video!
I heard that this printer stops working or starts showing problems after a few months. Is that true or is it a rare problem
Is the print quality good?
pretty good yeah!
Guys are these good? I want to invest in this one! To design phone cases and little accessories..
🚀 Sonic Pad to increase performance? How does it print when enhanced by Sonic Pad?
Yes input shaping would help for sure, I think that’s in a planned firmware release. Hopefully when I have some time I can plug this guy into my klipper pi. Linear or pressure advance would probably boost some speeds here too. Thanks for watching.
@@WildRoseBuilds Thanks for your awesome videos!!
the kobra 2 or the kobra plus for printing none stop mask fast?
It's pretty expensive where we live, around 10,000 for us.
For phone cases you definitely need material that's a little bit stretchy and not as hard so look into 3d printers that are specialized for that imo
"Special Thanks to Anycubic for providing this machine..."
Meanwhile, the attention is drawn to the ELEGOO logo in motion
Does this have an all metal hotend or the ability to upgrade the heat break? I like to print higher temp plastics and I read the hotend is non-standard so that would be a deal breaker for me if it can't print at least 275° C.
i think they market this as up to 300C. of course you can swap the heat break and the heatblock for a more favorable one. people say the nozzles are non standard but theyre just volcano nozzles missing a few threads at the top, i'm sure by now someone is selling them on amazon.
I was going to buy the Elegoo Neptune 3 pro but then I saw this Anycubic. Which of the 2 would you recommend? Considerand that they have almost 100$ of difference
i would wait for the neptune 4 pro, i have one here in the studio and its really cool ;)
@@WildRoseBuilds Good to hear that but N4 Pro is at least 3 months away.
Was this video about anycubic kobra 2 neo or the neo is another printer?
The neo is another printer
За эти деньги уже можно Reborn 2 взять
My daughter wants this printer for her birthday in June. It's only £169 no in the UK
any try for tpu / flex filament ?
Do they have input shaping? The newest marlin includes it.
I think nobody noticed. Same with linear advance for standalone drivers (creality MB). Free quality improvements, but rather spend endless time doing temp and retraction tests. Thats the current situation
I didn’t dig too deep in the firmware on this one so I can’t say if it has input shaping enabled in the firmware. I’m sure that’ll come in time from either the community or anycubic themselves. Thanks for watching!
@@WildRoseBuilds i think aurora tech said that anycubic told her about a input shaper firmware being in the work
@@kilianlindlbauer8277 that would make this printer a really great value machine. I tend not to include features the manufacturer says are “coming”. In the case of the AnkerMake that would be like all it’s features haha
@@kilianlindlbauer8277 I’ll believe it when I see it. I like what they did with this printer. The steel wheels, the timing belt, the oversized fan. All fantastic.
But you’re at their mercy firmware wise. And they already have your money so what incentive do they have to spend time/money to update it. I stayed away from the kobra because it didn’t have linear advance. I don’t know if they ever updated it.
超高速列印呀!
i bought it!!!!
How is it? Is it have any issue with auto resume option?
Which of these two would YOU select: Anycubic Kobra 2 or the Sovol SV07? Thank you.
neptune 4 pro :)
Hello, have someone the dimensions oh thé shipping box?
If 3D printers were popular in the '80s the GUI on this one would be what you would get on a Soviet printer, It's awful! but the printer quality more than makes up for it, such a pity!
yeah UI is not anycubics strong point haha
What's the print quality compared to N3 Pro?
at 150mm/s its pretty comparable. the volcano style hotend is really the star of the show here.
Did this make a God awful screaching noise at speeds above 150mm/s due to vibration? And why did the colour of the hot end change? Is it just the lighting?
Im looking for my first 3d printer,
Would you recommend this printer over Ender-3 V2 Neo?
How does it compare to a resin printer when printing minis?
I never received a gap setting tool for the probe..wth..
i got one second hand for 160 dollars on ebay
Добрый день , хотел бы попросить помощи у вас , решил приобрести данный принтер для знакомства с 3d печатью но с присетами скорости и качества сложно разобраться нормально , нет ли у вас пары вариантов для понимая вопроса ?
man that print head looks awful bambu-ish
walmart bambulabs
we all want one, but just remember, if you get this or any other printer from anycubic, no parts and no support so your new shiny printer will be useless very soon
What parts are you talking about? Also "very soon" been printing on my cobra max for over a year almost none stop only things changed: nozzle after a while and everyone should use steel reinforced belts from gates
Bs
@@TheCatFather01 ?
I call bs on this statement. I have had a vyper over a year, gotten pars under warranty very quickly and good support. So your statement is without fact. The SD card slot broke, they send me a whole new logic board. I had an issue with a motor and then sent me a full set of motors. Turned out the connector was loose - they said " keep the motors.
I have had mine for only one month and had a power issue, anycubic communicated through email and sent everthing I needed. I can not complain except I would like to be able to speak to a person. I love my fun printer!
Bed slinger. 😂
Yes it is - very astute.
Lmao
Buyers : be carefull. Printers that are sent to youtubers are well mount and configured. I've received mine and all axes are lose and z belt is about to fall of the axes. i'm going to modify all theses default and begin to test print in 2 or 3 days. But disapointed about this new printer
Men, literally I see your comment three times already xd
@@delgadosaenzdiegoalberto978 That's communication. And if you search, i think you can found comment like mine. Have a nice day
This is simply untrue. all machines I've ever received come sealed from the factory. I highly doubt they have time to open boxes, assemble, and tune machines before sending them to reviewers. That being said most machines i receive need some amount of adjusting, this one however did not. just part of the manufacturing lottery.
@@WildRoseBuilds Youre really naive if you think that they can send machine, that can be view by thousand of potential buyer, not verified or tuned But it's your bisness, so if you emit wrong argument on printer, no more free material
I stopped watching when he said print quality was good.
Obviously a biased review.
Biased because of the money/free printer he got.
nice tinfoil hat you got there
@@brunoyudi9555 yeah, sure.