Coming from a complete beginner that is still in the research stage before i even consider making a purchase all i want to say is thank you so much for the plain talking don't care review. I don't obsorb information that well at times and i have tried to watch other reviews and alls i can hear is numbers and technical talk. I realise not everyone reads there own comments but just know this newbie is grateful
I'm with you man - I'm printing for QUALITY; if the printer can shuck out minis and terrain faster than I can paint them, and I can only hobby an hour or so every day, then what difference does it make??
It works, it’s budget friendly at just over $100, and it can get good definition. And unlike resign you can just put in a corner and let it run, no ventilation, no cleaning, no toxic spills. It’s the little budget friendly printer that can.
Not sure what you’re talking about. There is an obsession about linear speed, but by and large everyone understands the limits of FDM. Quality has increased dramatically alongside speed.
Just an FYI, the z resolution (layer height) is determined by the smallest step of the motor. Most printers like the one you have are clones of a popular "ender 3" frame. This means it will be 0.04mm as a minimum and you should use increments of 0.04mm to determine different layer heights. (0.04, 0.08, 0.12...) Good video, I'm glad you're enjoying your FDM printer!
Yeah. I should have said I just learned that and was looking all through the manual for minimum step distance. Obviously nowhere online told me as nobody else had one yet publicly. But because prusa slicer showed me the minimum, I went with that. Worked a treat
With modern stepper drivers, which all of these machines have now, you can get very accurate fractional steps. If you override the slicer's limits, going down to half or quarter step layers should work fine in terms of motion system, but might not work well for extrusion unless you go to a really tiny nozzle orifice size.
Aww really? I had no idea. I've been printing now for 8 months, watch all the channels and no one has ever said that! Well I can't recall anyone saying it. Thanks so much for this info 👍🙏
@@daliasprints9798 Not only that. With rather simple modifications of the lead screw mechanics you could get it even more granular at the cost of movement speed. Either by switching the lead screws for a finer pitch or by adding a gear box (harder, but doable using 3d printed parts only, and maybe some screws).
I think you nailed it, I'm in the same mindset and would use it for the same thing. I don't care about printing carbon-fiber laced prototype parts or having to mod my machine to hell and back just to get it working. Sounds like an excellent choice.
One of the biggest improvements in FDM printing for miniatures lately has been the new Variable Line Width settings in the slicer. It's almost as good as swapping out to a smaller nozzle size. 28mm is still pretty rough, but they look fine if the model was designed with FDM in mind, such as the FatDragon ones. I've been tempted to go back and try out all the old Battlemasters/Heroquest models in FDM for Oldhammer proxies, see how they turn out.
I have been using sunlu filament almost exclusively for years. its the right combination of quality and price, and blows away all of the other budget filaments .
WARNING: You fail to talk about the nozzle issue. This hot end uses a non-standard Volcano nozzle... In fact, we should not say Volcano as it is not one. A real deal breaker for us. We can't find suppliers for this weird type of nozzle so will probably end-up returning the multiple Kobra2 we purchased for our print farm.
This is what I'm talking about. I want something I dont have to tinker with, mess with, upgrade or anything else to get working. Kind of like I've had to do with my Ender 3 V2. That thing is hot garbage and I've been looking to replace it. I just want to print. I don't want to sit and fix crap. Had my eye on the Kobra 2 and really glad the reviews have been positive.
I have 2 x Anycubic Vypers and they have been rock solid, apart from the second one which initially had a dud cable to the hotend which once replaced has been fine. My nephew has recently gotten into 3D printing and initially I gave him one of my old printers, which he was getting inconsistant results with. I ended up buying him a Vyper a few weeks ago and set it up for him, only took about 10 minutes to setup. He has had 0 issues with it and no failed prints that I know of.
Nice. Seems massively better since the days of the Chiron. I have a 400x400x700 printer that can do very thin layers, but with the weight of the bed it is very slow. Now if they can scale this one to 500x500x500 with 2 in 1 out extruder, that would be killer.
Thanks for your take on this printer, just picked one up. Coming from an ender 3 that I was mainly using for bases but would like to branch out into more detailed terrain. I love your no nonsense (does it do the job) review style. I also have been rocking the Mars pro 3 for a year thanks to you and no regrets 👍
This is my first and only printer I have and I love it. It was super easy to set up, and the prints are nice quality. I got nothing to compare it to, but I’m happy with it, especially of the fact that it only cost me slightly over $200.
I agree with you 100%!!! Just give me a printer that works well. That is why I still use some of the printers I use, I can trust that they will give me good print. Great video!
I have 2 AnyCubic Mega S printers and they have been rock solid reliable with above average print quality. They are an older design and require some “fiddling” but I dialed them in way easier then I did my Mars Pro resin printer. I am surprised about how well Sunlu filament is working for you as I haven’t been able to get good results with it. Hatchbox on the other hand has been my go to filament for 3 plus years now.
This is 100% what I wanted to see in a fdm review. I want to print mini terrain as well in as little headache to get started as possible so this has placed itself on the top of my potential printer list. Thank you!
Nice one, I tend to use my FDM printer at the lowest settings mostly for printing bases to the 1/4 and 1/6 sculptures it saves a hell of a lot of resin and you can have them both going at the same time 😁 Oh and Sunlu matte gray PLA is my go to as details just pop even without priming !
This channel is a breath of fresh air. Most of the time with these kinds channels the first 10-15 minutes of a 20 minute rwview is some jackoff complaining about boxing or a a screw being in the wrong place and not printing a benshi inconsequentially worse than they think it should be.
Ooof sorry dood didnt mean to inadvertently throw shade. Should have just said that this is quality content as this is the kind of stuff i want to know about with regards to a 3d printer.
Hang on did we just have a civil discussion in a youtube comment section. I think we just broke the matrix. Now small question do you know if the giant version the neptune max is comparable in terms of quality? I want to go large but have heard horror stories about usability for qausi newbs such as myself.
Thanks for the no nonsense layman approach! I picked one up and it arrived today. Going to assemble tomorrow morning and hopefully print some stuff! I'm actually interested in trying to do some minis on this as well since I don't have a space to safely use a resin printer
@ZombieOfun damn thanks for the answer tho, so you got like a grow tent and a vent system? I'm still afraid even if I do that there still be some bad air in my living space
@@zzz7792 I have it with a couple of mini purifiers in the enclosure in a room that one enters when I am printing. I open the windows and let whatever bad stuff is left blow outside after I am done (and for what it's worth I have the window cracked the entire time but I need to close the blinds so sunlight doesn't cure while I am printing)
I’ve been getting into the idea of using a 3D printer and was interested in filament printers, especially since I’m looking into making custom LEGO designs. I think this would work pretty well for me, and the layering isn’t a big issue for me, but I like that printers are getting to a point of very nice high detail.
Love the intro. I'm 100% with you. I watch a lot of 3d printing channels and so many waffle on about the smallest stuff. easy, does it work, does it look good. boom simple.
I use voxelmaker for a lot of my armor prints. I do the supports with 4 layers of support roof at 75% density. x/y .88 z .3. Everything stays in place and comes off easy.
One little thing I'd like to see on these videos is telling and showing the price of those printers, even if MSRP is not always 100% what you can get them at with discounts etc. You're sometimes doing it, but not consistently Maybe even for a few different currencies, say USD, GBP and EUR. Because those different MSRPs aren't necessarily direct current conversions, because of slightly different cost-of-living figures and taxes.
I do get asked this a lot, but the issue is, over the lifespan of a printer, those prices change wildly!! This review needs to be relevant in 2 years from now. But… I am gonna do a big summary video and I could include it on that
I got mine from offer up for 160 bucks which came with 11 rolls which were about 800 dollars worth that were given to this guy for free and to review it. who gave an honest review and only used it last month. Right now I finally calibrated the pos. and it's printing beautifully compared to my davinchi 1a that the motherboard decided to unsubscribe from life magazine. The motors still work tho so I'm parting that out and throwing out the rest.
The Elegoo Neptune 4 ( or Pro)) addresses speed and cooling issues I'm also using SunLu but their PLA Plus. I went for the Neptune 4 from a CR20-POR - it's like night and day. Neptune 4 looks remarkably like this but has monster fans and 1/10 of the assembly.
I've just bought this for myself. its an upgrade from my previous one which was the Diggro Alpha. It was as basic as you get. I hope its as easy and as trouble free as people make out.
About 3 years ago i built a 3d printer on a pre prusa era frame with a rails 1.4 board and a carlstruder. I tuned leveled and tightened it for weeks. I printed a model at 0.1 with a .25 nozzle and when i gave the model one coat of primer it looked like injected plastic part wit no visible lines and it only cost me like 200$ . I recently bought a cr10 max for 1000$ thinking my days of tuning printer are over and then almost smashed it with a hammer. What i realized is printing is your knowledge of it not the printer.
Sunlu PLA is good for what it is and for $15 on Amazon US, it delivers the quality I expect from my new Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro. I got the Neptune 3 Pro instead of a Neptune 4 or the Anycubic Kobra 2 because the price was cheaper on Amazon. Overall, I'm happy with my purchase although on occasion, I still second guess myself. Should I have gotten the Neptune 4 or Kobra 2 instead of the Neptune 3 if I print mostly PLA?
So I clicked “Like” about 15 seconds into the video. I’ve been in this game for over 10 years, my first machine being a badged Wanhao Duplicator 2 (still have it under the bench, I hoard stuff!). After, love the expression of attitude! I don’t care either! The last thing I want to do is fettle the printer when I need to print something. These devices have been out for long enough to essentially be Appliances. Something I warn any newcomer on the groups is that they’re not Appliances. They require some learning. Easy enough to do, but requires the effort and time. Exciting to see 3D printers finally turn that corner to beginning to become Appliances. More focus on Creativity and less on constant fettling. Now that I do care about. I can’t wait to see what the Creatives come out with.
Awesome review mate. I’ve been looking into the world of 3D printing and an absolute novice. Have exactly the same attitude and the fact this is just build , turn on and play is a huge attraction. I’d just use for some blasters and maybe armour pieces. This might be the one for me Cheers
Great video, actually just got this printer before even watching this video… and I don’t care about alot of the junk people are advertising about other printers, just need it to work, and I’ve never have and never will print a benchy boat
Sunlu Is great, prints extremely well. I been printing for about a year now, after trying about 20 different brands, I found my "go to" has been sunlu as well.
While i love the details of resin printers the real reason im switching to one is because i want to be able to bulk print minis and terrains. Because one space marine will print as fast as 10 space marines. Where as the extruder based printers will take more than 10 times longer.
My guess for the brim on that dinosaur is to further ensure print success for a beginner that might not have the printer assembled quite right. My first print was the lucky cat on the ender 3 which had a raft. Super overkill. but if a beginner plugs in a printer and the print doesn't succeed, they can just blame it on the printer itself.
@@FauxHammer from my experience Meta is, as advertised, significantly more resilient than their regular PLA, so much so that removing brims and minor print defects like thick stringing requires unusual amounts of force. On top of that, the white Meta PLA reacted somewhat more sensitive to air movement like drafts from a nearby open window, thus leading to more thick, stick like stringing. They also say it can be printed as low as 180 degrees, while that is true printing any pla below 190 does apparently lead to minuscule layer issues which in turn make the outermost wall absorb liquids and paint like a sponge.. don't quote me on that though.
Wow, that print looked really good for FDM. I've somehow acquired 6 Anycubic printers across FDM and resin and have been quite happy with the prints and reliability. The FDM printers I use most are 2 Mega S with a few mods. The older ones only get used when I need to finish something fast. I'll look at buying a Cobra 2 if one of them dies or just gets too worn, although I'm trying to save up for a larger format resin printer atm. Oh, and I don't care either! Reliability and print quality are key for me, the nice-to-haves are just a bonus.
Amen! I've been printing with FDM printers for a few years now, and at first I enjoyed tinkering with and "upgrading" my printers, but now I want them to just work, and I'm more interested in print quality than in printing 3-minute Benchies. I have an Anycubic Kobra Go and an Anycubic Mega S, and the print quality from both is great, especially for such inexpensive printers, but they are quite slow. I don't care. I'd rather take several hours to get good results than get garbage in minutes. Unfortunately, the reliability of both printers is not great. The Kobra Go is only a few months old and already needs a new fan for the mainboard, and the Mega S - my "old" printer at 3 years - is about to get it's third mainboard and new linear bearings. So, for my next printer, I'm gonna have to spend more, but I want one that will produce good results, and that will last a few years before I have to do any repairs.
Ooof, that sounds like fun, yeah I think these things could do with some more TLC, I can't wait for these pointers innovations to stop and we just get working printers
I was looking for Santa to bring me an FDM printer to complement my Resin printer and as a result i know that Santa is bringing me an Kobra 2 Neo Thanks for the heads up!
if you really fine tune the ol' bedslinger design (Ender3 style, like this one) to get it going great.. you should be able to print at about 0.04mm layer height. Due to bed slinger systems, lack of serious part cooling make it slower printers. The biggest problem with the frame design is it isn't designed for actual high speed printing - sure some have modified the heck out of their printers to do it, but if your not into that DIY effort, it's not something to do casually. Getting above 60mm/s actual print speed, without serious quality issues, is a challenge on most bedslingers. Then you come to part cooling - which is something you touched on. The tiny fans, no matter how hard they try - just cannot keep up with real part cooling at speeds. They are loud, they are bad airflow, and sometimes they aren't even aimed right. One of the number 1 prints is a new fanduct system, typically incorperating 5015 blower fans to add insane amounts of cooling to allow faster print speeds, even if they aren't 100mm/s As for slicing models down select sections - it depends on the model. Your effectively looking for something to detect the vertices (the joining of the polygons, typically viewed in wireframe mode) and cut along them. Meshmixer has a basic function of this "plane cut" - with choosing "keep both sides" as desired, but this is only useful in single plane cuts, it's literally slicing with a plane afterall, at any angle you can arrange it, but doesn't work for complex shape cuts. Blender has something similar, and is probably the way to go - although personally I don't have any experience with Blender... so... sorry on that one. Most of my needs to cut in half are literally that - halving on a middle section, so plane cut works just fine for me.
Yea the kobra was so great, had to sell mine this week for 150 because i couldnt adjust the z axes because anycubic is closed sorce. Moral here, dont buy anycubic
I had bought this printer, and out of the box it was great. Then for whatever reason the hotend stopped working. The online guide suggested a couple of fixes, checking the connection on the board and sticking a multimeter on the hotend for resistance. Neither worked so I contacted anycubic. I received an email telling me the had received it and would get back to me promptly. 48hrs later I received an email from them asking if they had been any help in fixing the issue. It's now back in the box and returning it. Ender 3d S1 pro ordered instead.
Is there a chance you could share you profile? I notice you're using Prusa, which I don't know and I'm of a Cura slicer :P but still I'm looking for profile! I want to acheive your 0.04 actually :P
Really helpful review 🙂 I have one of the original anycubic kobras (partly for D&D and Warhammer terrain) and it's a solid printer. Nice to see the next gen got a speed upgrade!
So this printer gave me some great detail... ... for about 500 print hours... ... when so many parts of it decided to break at once, I had to get rid of it... Caveat emptor...
Certainly looks good for mini terrain and bigger pieces. Is the comparable to resin for highly detailed 32mm and 75mm figures or would resin still be a better solution?
My main concern with this printer, and the printer it was based off of (Kobra NEO) is that I'd need to know if they changed the cables that run to the printer bed. The Kobra has always been known for having the cables to the bed fry themselves and throw a "MINTEMP: BED" error which needs to be fixed ultimately by replacing the bed entirely. This issue is known to happen within the first couple months of ownership.
I get that error when I turn it on and it's below 60 degrees outside. I print in a cabinet in my barn. I have to run a small space heater to get the cabinet up to temp before starting up the printer.
This just started happening to me yesterday with my original Neo. Luckily I can still print just fine so long as I keep it to the back 2/3 of the bed as when the bed pushes all the way back so it can print on the front is when the cables strain and fail. Support was quick to respond and has a replacement on the way, which is good because I've only had the thing 6 months. They must know this is an issue because they sent it no questions asked when I mentioned the error.
Love it if you'd mention price points for purchase. Know nothing about beans and types but looking to get something soon and be nice to find a good entry level plug and play that gives good prints.
this is a budget entry, bit other than budget, mid-tier and expensive. I hate mentioning price, this video need to remain relevant in a year from now and prices will change.
I was watching this.on another channel just yesterday about how low the printer company said it can go and what you should actually go I won't say channel names but was highly advised not to go that low but I've just started this month with anycubic resin printers my first mono 4k and I had to pick up a second the other day, I got the mono 2 and it's fantastic for straight out the box printing with no lines! Thisnis what I'm working on with the mono 4k adjustment settings now, I printed off a ww2 vignette on the mono 2 it was nice but can definitely see the plus in these FDM printers if they just done something with them lines!
I’m really interested about getting into 3D printing, and I’m probably going to get this but I was wondering how do you add the files to the printer so it can print your 3D print
I got myself the kobra 2 max which is an absolute huge machine and I'm pretty happy with it. There are a few problems: 1. I have to calibrate the Z offset manually everytime i change the spool, even for the same filament. It's really annoying and I suspect the same for the other printers in the series. 2. The spool holder is an absolute nightmare! for a printert that size it is much to close to the print head in the lower position which means as it starts from the top it unwinds the spool and tangles the filament. I always have to fix that manually or it will knot up and get stuck. 3. the usb stick in the package is the worst I have ever seen in my life. It's unreliable to the point I threw it away.
@@FauxHammer If you do, could you please compare the power consumption? Due to the large print bed it might be a significant difference and one of the major drawbacks. Aside from that it is a Kobra 2 in the end.
I'd always recommend something like the Bambu A1 or the Ankerrmake M5C over this if you can afford it. But otherwise yes, this is generally ok for beginners.
@@FauxHammer I'm really very impressed for the price although my fdm days are over, I still have an og Ender 3 and a cr10s. Like yourself, I do still use fdm for certain prints. I use my resin printer for cartoon characters and my daughter paints them. I only have the mono 4k but anycubic have always impressed me. Great channel and excellent reviews 👍
yeah, I really don't want to care about the specs. I just want GOOD prints. just a tip : I know DoF shots are cinematic, but I really want to see the whole model to judge it's quality.
Excuse my ignorance, but I did not know what you meant Naught point Naught layer height? I generally just say .1mm .3mm .2mm or .1, .2. So I was not sure what layer height you were talking about? And how to compare? Educate me please?
Can’t wait to see your A1 mini review! If it wasn’t for that coming out (at some point soon hopefully) if totally go out and buy this one based off this review
@@FauxHammer im waiting for them to sell just the unit without colour mixing. Hopefully wont have to wait for long. Will the quality match the Kobra2 or M5C do you know?
@@nickholl they already do, just click the main printer not the combo or mega-combo kit it's £270 shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2420414&u=3060349&m=138211&urllink=&afftrack= (make sure you click your country it the top right first)
@@Gregatron13 I'd look, it's not as big a build area. but I'm all-in on Bambu now until the rest catch up. (cheaper not as a combo) shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2420414&u=3060349&m=138211&urllink=&afftrack=
That's what I wanted to hear "how easy is it to get printing. Is it easy to operate etc. Definitely got a new sub here. Great video I'm looking for a new printer too. Anycubic is on my short list
I was looking into buying this machine as my first ever 3d printer. Are there things I need to look out for, things I need to buy extra or be careful off? Very helpful review, thank you very much for the info!
Coming from a complete beginner that is still in the research stage before i even consider making a purchase all i want to say is thank you so much for the plain talking don't care review. I don't obsorb information that well at times and i have tried to watch other reviews and alls i can hear is numbers and technical talk. I realise not everyone reads there own comments but just know this newbie is grateful
I read all my comments and try to reply to as many as possible. This one made my day
I'm with you man - I'm printing for QUALITY; if the printer can shuck out minis and terrain faster than I can paint them, and I can only hobby an hour or so every day, then what difference does it make??
It works, it’s budget friendly at just over $100, and it can get good definition. And unlike resign you can just put in a corner and let it run, no ventilation, no cleaning, no toxic spills. It’s the little budget friendly printer that can.
Cool review! A lot of the 3D printing community is obsessed with speed over quality, but for stuff you actually want to use, patience is a virtue.
I can't agree more and ill certainly be talking about this with the M5s
This is a very fast machine, what patience are you talking about.
Not sure what you’re talking about. There is an obsession about linear speed, but by and large everyone understands the limits of FDM. Quality has increased dramatically alongside speed.
@@akfortyfo7024 Well read what I said and we agree on everything. I never said most or everyone or that printing hasn't improved.
Just an FYI, the z resolution (layer height) is determined by the smallest step of the motor. Most printers like the one you have are clones of a popular "ender 3" frame. This means it will be 0.04mm as a minimum and you should use increments of 0.04mm to determine different layer heights. (0.04, 0.08, 0.12...)
Good video, I'm glad you're enjoying your FDM printer!
Yeah. I should have said I just learned that and was looking all through the manual for minimum step distance. Obviously nowhere online told me as nobody else had one yet publicly.
But because prusa slicer showed me the minimum, I went with that.
Worked a treat
With modern stepper drivers, which all of these machines have now, you can get very accurate fractional steps. If you override the slicer's limits, going down to half or quarter step layers should work fine in terms of motion system, but might not work well for extrusion unless you go to a really tiny nozzle orifice size.
Aww really? I had no idea. I've been printing now for 8 months, watch all the channels and no one has ever said that! Well I can't recall anyone saying it. Thanks so much for this info 👍🙏
@@TheZombieSaints search for z “magic numbers”
@@daliasprints9798 Not only that. With rather simple modifications of the lead screw mechanics you could get it even more granular at the cost of movement speed. Either by switching the lead screws for a finer pitch or by adding a gear box (harder, but doable using 3d printed parts only, and maybe some screws).
I think you nailed it, I'm in the same mindset and would use it for the same thing. I don't care about printing carbon-fiber laced prototype parts or having to mod my machine to hell and back just to get it working. Sounds like an excellent choice.
Thanks, yeah that's what I loved about this!
Be sure to use a hardened nozzle for abrasive filaments. Carbon fiber and nylon will tear up your brass nozzle
I wish more 3d printer reviews were like this.
What, me just not giving a crap and going. yeah... it's ok....
One of the biggest improvements in FDM printing for miniatures lately has been the new Variable Line Width settings in the slicer. It's almost as good as swapping out to a smaller nozzle size. 28mm is still pretty rough, but they look fine if the model was designed with FDM in mind, such as the FatDragon ones. I've been tempted to go back and try out all the old Battlemasters/Heroquest models in FDM for Oldhammer proxies, see how they turn out.
I may need to try this
I have been using sunlu filament almost exclusively for years. its the right combination of quality and price, and blows away all of the other budget filaments .
Yeah, I'm really liking it
Great review! It was very good that you showed the quality this unit can produce instead of just benchys
and here I am right now sat next to my Anker make M5 and 6 Benchys on it....
bet get printing a master sword
this was my first printer ever i got it for Christmas and i am extremely happy with it its super fast and easy to use it is so much fun to use.
exactly what I'm thinking. it should just work without a lot of hassle and settings. anycubic has always worked that way for me.
WARNING: You fail to talk about the nozzle issue.
This hot end uses a non-standard Volcano nozzle... In fact, we should not say Volcano as it is not one.
A real deal breaker for us. We can't find suppliers for this weird type of nozzle so will probably end-up returning the multiple Kobra2 we purchased for our print farm.
He didn't fail to talk about it, he just simply said he wasn't going to talk about it.
This is what I'm talking about. I want something I dont have to tinker with, mess with, upgrade or anything else to get working. Kind of like I've had to do with my Ender 3 V2. That thing is hot garbage and I've been looking to replace it. I just want to print. I don't want to sit and fix crap. Had my eye on the Kobra 2 and really glad the reviews have been positive.
I have 2 x Anycubic Vypers and they have been rock solid, apart from the second one which initially had a dud cable to the hotend which once replaced has been fine. My nephew has recently gotten into 3D printing and initially I gave him one of my old printers, which he was getting inconsistant results with. I ended up buying him a Vyper a few weeks ago and set it up for him, only took about 10 minutes to setup. He has had 0 issues with it and no failed prints that I know of.
This is awesome! Thank you for showing what FDM can do, since I wanted resin quality but was holding back d/t the extremely long and painful workflow.
Nice. Seems massively better since the days of the Chiron. I have a 400x400x700 printer that can do very thin layers, but with the weight of the bed it is very slow. Now if they can scale this one to 500x500x500 with 2 in 1 out extruder, that would be killer.
What printer do you have. Right now I have two ender 5 plus but there always having a issue. I want detail and do large prints.
Thanks for your take on this printer, just picked one up. Coming from an ender 3 that I was mainly using for bases but would like to branch out into more detailed terrain. I love your no nonsense (does it do the job) review style. I also have been rocking the Mars pro 3 for a year thanks to you and no regrets 👍
Glad I could help
This is my first and only printer I have and I love it. It was super easy to set up, and the prints are nice quality. I got nothing to compare it to, but I’m happy with it, especially of the fact that it only cost me slightly over $200.
I agree with you 100%!!! Just give me a printer that works well. That is why I still use some of the printers I use, I can trust that they will give me good print. Great video!
I have 2 AnyCubic Mega S printers and they have been rock solid reliable with above average print quality. They are an older design and require some “fiddling” but I dialed them in way easier then I did my Mars Pro resin printer. I am surprised about how well Sunlu filament is working for you as I haven’t been able to get good results with it. Hatchbox on the other hand has been my go to filament for 3 plus years now.
I’ve heard Hatchbox is good, it was recommended by QIDI Tech, but it’s harder to get in the UK
This is 100% what I wanted to see in a fdm review. I want to print mini terrain as well in as little headache to get started as possible so this has placed itself on the top of my potential printer list. Thank you!
Nice one, I tend to use my FDM printer at the lowest settings mostly for printing bases to the 1/4 and 1/6 sculptures it saves a hell of a lot of resin and you can have them both going at the same time 😁
Oh and Sunlu matte gray PLA is my go to as details just pop even without priming !
If you get one of the flexible textured build plates it will give your bases the same texture that you get on store bought bases.
Pla or pla+
That’s exactly what i want to do
Is use it for printing 1/4 1/6 figure bases. What printer do you use
This channel is a breath of fresh air. Most of the time with these kinds channels the first 10-15 minutes of a 20 minute rwview is some jackoff complaining about boxing or a a screw being in the wrong place and not printing a benshi inconsequentially worse than they think it should be.
Lol, sorry in advance, my fdm next review is a ton of Benchys. But I do skip past them as quick as I can and print a master sword
Ooof sorry dood didnt mean to inadvertently throw shade. Should have just said that this is quality content as this is the kind of stuff i want to know about with regards to a 3d printer.
@@JP-rx8dn no sorry I wasn't taking it that way, just warning you what's upcoming and I really appreciate your comment
Hang on did we just have a civil discussion in a youtube comment section. I think we just broke the matrix.
Now small question do you know if the giant version the neptune max is comparable in terms of quality? I want to go large but have heard horror stories about usability for qausi newbs such as myself.
Thanks for the no nonsense layman approach! I picked one up and it arrived today. Going to assemble tomorrow morning and hopefully print some stuff! I'm actually interested in trying to do some minis on this as well since I don't have a space to safely use a resin printer
Let us how it went with minis pls im in the same situation
@@zzz7792 I ended up figuring out a place for resin. I could not get a decent mini on the Kobra 2 unfortunately
@ZombieOfun damn thanks for the answer tho, so you got like a grow tent and a vent system? I'm still afraid even if I do that there still be some bad air in my living space
@@zzz7792 I have it with a couple of mini purifiers in the enclosure in a room that one enters when I am printing.
I open the windows and let whatever bad stuff is left blow outside after I am done (and for what it's worth I have the window cracked the entire time but I need to close the blinds so sunlight doesn't cure while I am printing)
In my opinion, one of the best videos about this printer. I am like you ... I want to unbox it and print.
Rotary tool for easier clean up , I'm still unsure if I should get resin or fdm
I’ve been getting into the idea of using a 3D printer and was interested in filament printers, especially since I’m looking into making custom LEGO designs. I think this would work pretty well for me, and the layering isn’t a big issue for me, but I like that printers are getting to a point of very nice high detail.
Yeah. Cheap letter to get started and it worked out the box for me
I just bought one after watching this video. I don't care either... I trust your opinion, really hope you're legit
Thanks so much. I'm not here to steer anyone wrong, it would kill my rep and my channel
Love the intro. I'm 100% with you. I watch a lot of 3d printing channels and so many waffle on about the smallest stuff. easy, does it work, does it look good. boom simple.
I use voxelmaker for a lot of my armor prints. I do the supports with 4 layers of support roof at 75% density. x/y .88 z .3. Everything stays in place and comes off easy.
I wish I knew what you meant
@@FauxHammer Lol. I just switched to Cura, looking at this printer. Have you tried any small models?
One little thing I'd like to see on these videos is telling and showing the price of those printers, even if MSRP is not always 100% what you can get them at with discounts etc. You're sometimes doing it, but not consistently
Maybe even for a few different currencies, say USD, GBP and EUR. Because those different MSRPs aren't necessarily direct current conversions, because of slightly different cost-of-living figures and taxes.
I do get asked this a lot, but the issue is, over the lifespan of a printer, those prices change wildly!! This review needs to be relevant in 2 years from now.
But… I am gonna do a big summary video and I could include it on that
@@FauxHammer Simple solution: include the date of when you saw that price.
I got mine from offer up for 160 bucks which came with 11 rolls which were about 800 dollars worth that were given to this guy for free and to review it. who gave an honest review and only used it last month. Right now I finally calibrated the pos. and it's printing beautifully compared to my davinchi 1a that the motherboard decided to unsubscribe from life magazine. The motors still work tho so I'm parting that out and throwing out the rest.
The Elegoo Neptune 4 ( or Pro)) addresses speed and cooling issues I'm also using SunLu but their PLA Plus. I went for the Neptune 4 from a CR20-POR - it's like night and day. Neptune 4 looks remarkably like this but has monster fans and 1/10 of the assembly.
I have the Neptune 3s here still to review
I've just bought this for myself. its an upgrade from my previous one which was the Diggro Alpha. It was as basic as you get. I hope its as easy and as trouble free as people make out.
Hey for the Batman supports. Try using organic (tree) supports for easier removal
You doing a good job we need more people like you , just all we need know if the print is good thankyou mate😊
About 3 years ago i built a 3d printer on a pre prusa era frame with a rails 1.4 board and a carlstruder. I tuned leveled and tightened it for weeks. I printed a model at 0.1 with a .25 nozzle and when i gave the model one coat of primer it looked like injected plastic part wit no visible lines and it only cost me like 200$ . I recently bought a cr10 max for 1000$ thinking my days of tuning printer are over and then almost smashed it with a hammer. What i realized is printing is your knowledge of it not the printer.
The CR10 Max is a pain
Sunlu PLA is good for what it is and for $15 on Amazon US, it delivers the quality I expect from my new Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro. I got the Neptune 3 Pro instead of a Neptune 4 or the Anycubic Kobra 2 because the price was cheaper on Amazon. Overall, I'm happy with my purchase although on occasion, I still second guess myself. Should I have gotten the Neptune 4 or Kobra 2 instead of the Neptune 3 if I print mostly PLA?
So I clicked “Like” about 15 seconds into the video. I’ve been in this game for over 10 years, my first machine being a badged Wanhao Duplicator 2 (still have it under the bench, I hoard stuff!). After, love the expression of attitude! I don’t care either!
The last thing I want to do is fettle the printer when I need to print something. These devices have been out for long enough to essentially be Appliances. Something I warn any newcomer on the groups is that they’re not Appliances. They require some learning. Easy enough to do, but requires the effort and time.
Exciting to see 3D printers finally turn that corner to beginning to become Appliances. More focus on Creativity and less on constant fettling. Now that I do care about. I can’t wait to see what the Creatives come out with.
Awesome review mate. I’ve been looking into the world of 3D printing and an absolute novice. Have exactly the same attitude and the fact this is just build , turn on and play is a huge attraction. I’d just use for some blasters and maybe armour pieces.
This might be the one for me
Cheers
Great video, actually just got this printer before even watching this video… and I don’t care about alot of the junk people are advertising about other printers, just need it to work, and I’ve never have and never will print a benchy boat
Have one of these on the way. Will be my first bed slinger, I would much rather have corexy but this was on my vine feed so why not :)
On the dong that it comes with it has a slicer program that you can download and take off the brim
Mine looks like yours accept yours has a bigger display screen. Just printed the boat and its pretty cool
I just ordered mine can't wait for it to arrive!
If you still need that batman mask cutting up, drop me a line and ill take a look.
That was the review that I was looking for! Thank you so much for that entry Level Miniature hobby Video 😁🤘
Happy to help!
I've been thinking of FDM printing lately. My first was an Ender 3, but it was hot trash so I'm kinda 'once bitten twice shy'
Get a Bambu. You won’t be bitten again
Sunlu Is great, prints extremely well. I been printing for about a year now, after trying about 20 different brands, I found my "go to" has been sunlu as well.
Yeah they are ace!!!
While i love the details of resin printers the real reason im switching to one is because i want to be able to bulk print minis and terrains. Because one space marine will print as fast as 10 space marines. Where as the extruder based printers will take more than 10 times longer.
Automatic bed leveling is such a liberating feature, great stuff.
Yeah, it does it well too
My guess for the brim on that dinosaur is to further ensure print success for a beginner that might not have the printer assembled quite right. My first print was the lucky cat on the ender 3 which had a raft. Super overkill. but if a beginner plugs in a printer and the print doesn't succeed, they can just blame it on the printer itself.
Yeah, you're probably right. Though the bench wasn't brimmed. I dunno. I just feel it was more a lapse in judgement. Could be eutehr
@@FauxHammerBrims are for better adhesion and brims can also help with the extruding any filament poop before it starts printing the model itself.
Me watching this while running a print with a 1.2mm nozzle xD
Sploosh!
After the horrendous prints you got from that garbage machine, I'm glad you got this one and that you're happy with it.
I am, though now I have the AnkerMake M5, that’s my go to
I don't see anything about changing the slicer settings.. What did you use and setting would be amazing!
Sunlu has excellent PLA+, it's my go to filament in grey or black.
It’s all I buy now. I have some meta too. Dunno what that’s like
@@FauxHammer from my experience Meta is, as advertised, significantly more resilient than their regular PLA, so much so that removing brims and minor print defects like thick stringing requires unusual amounts of force.
On top of that, the white Meta PLA reacted somewhat more sensitive to air movement like drafts from a nearby open window, thus leading to more thick, stick like stringing.
They also say it can be printed as low as 180 degrees, while that is true printing any pla below 190 does apparently lead to minuscule layer issues which in turn make the outermost wall absorb liquids and paint like a sponge.. don't quote me on that though.
Wow, that print looked really good for FDM. I've somehow acquired 6 Anycubic printers across FDM and resin and have been quite happy with the prints and reliability.
The FDM printers I use most are 2 Mega S with a few mods. The older ones only get used when I need to finish something fast.
I'll look at buying a Cobra 2 if one of them dies or just gets too worn, although I'm trying to save up for a larger format resin printer atm.
Oh, and I don't care either! Reliability and print quality are key for me, the nice-to-haves are just a bonus.
Anycubic also has resin printers?
@@Hanzi2u Yes they've made them for many years.They've got a 10inch Photon M5 on special atm for $399
@@ausfoodgarden nice nice
I’m blown away by it
Amen! I've been printing with FDM printers for a few years now, and at first I enjoyed tinkering with and "upgrading" my printers, but now I want them to just work, and I'm more interested in print quality than in printing 3-minute Benchies. I have an Anycubic Kobra Go and an Anycubic Mega S, and the print quality from both is great, especially for such inexpensive printers, but they are quite slow. I don't care. I'd rather take several hours to get good results than get garbage in minutes. Unfortunately, the reliability of both printers is not great. The Kobra Go is only a few months old and already needs a new fan for the mainboard, and the Mega S - my "old" printer at 3 years - is about to get it's third mainboard and new linear bearings. So, for my next printer, I'm gonna have to spend more, but I want one that will produce good results, and that will last a few years before I have to do any repairs.
Ooof, that sounds like fun, yeah I think these things could do with some more TLC, I can't wait for these pointers innovations to stop and we just get working printers
I was looking for Santa to bring me an FDM printer to complement my Resin printer and as a result i know that Santa is bringing me an Kobra 2 Neo Thanks for the heads up!
Dude, your fucking attitude, I loveit. It matches mine, almost completely.
Lol, thanks? I think
if you really fine tune the ol' bedslinger design (Ender3 style, like this one) to get it going great.. you should be able to print at about 0.04mm layer height. Due to bed slinger systems, lack of serious part cooling make it slower printers.
The biggest problem with the frame design is it isn't designed for actual high speed printing - sure some have modified the heck out of their printers to do it, but if your not into that DIY effort, it's not something to do casually.
Getting above 60mm/s actual print speed, without serious quality issues, is a challenge on most bedslingers.
Then you come to part cooling - which is something you touched on. The tiny fans, no matter how hard they try - just cannot keep up with real part cooling at speeds. They are loud, they are bad airflow, and sometimes they aren't even aimed right. One of the number 1 prints is a new fanduct system, typically incorperating 5015 blower fans to add insane amounts of cooling to allow faster print speeds, even if they aren't 100mm/s
As for slicing models down select sections - it depends on the model. Your effectively looking for something to detect the vertices (the joining of the polygons, typically viewed in wireframe mode) and cut along them. Meshmixer has a basic function of this "plane cut" - with choosing "keep both sides" as desired, but this is only useful in single plane cuts, it's literally slicing with a plane afterall, at any angle you can arrange it, but doesn't work for complex shape cuts.
Blender has something similar, and is probably the way to go - although personally I don't have any experience with Blender... so... sorry on that one. Most of my needs to cut in half are literally that - halving on a middle section, so plane cut works just fine for me.
Who are you talking to? The man literally said he doesn’t want to mess with any of that.
If you ever wanted to go a little more complex, I would say go the klipper route. Things will get even more detailed and dialed in.
I want the opposite honestly.
Yea the kobra was so great, had to sell mine this week for 150 because i couldnt adjust the z axes because anycubic is closed sorce. Moral here, dont buy anycubic
So you don't like anycubic because you can't modify it? I wanted a more realistic reason.
Then you are going to hate Bambu Labs.
I had bought this printer, and out of the box it was great. Then for whatever reason the hotend stopped working. The online guide suggested a couple of fixes, checking the connection on the board and sticking a multimeter on the hotend for resistance. Neither worked so I contacted anycubic. I received an email telling me the had received it and would get back to me promptly. 48hrs later I received an email from them asking if they had been any help in fixing the issue.
It's now back in the box and returning it. Ender 3d S1 pro ordered instead.
Definitely tempted to get an FDM for yeah terrain
Honestly this is the same way I've felt about fdm as well. I might finally get one of these.
Thanks, glad the angle I took on this video payed off
Is there a chance you could share you profile? I notice you're using Prusa, which I don't know and I'm of a Cura slicer :P but still I'm looking for profile! I want to acheive your 0.04 actually :P
You are in control. You decide if you print a brim or not.
Really helpful review 🙂 I have one of the original anycubic kobras (partly for D&D and Warhammer terrain) and it's a solid printer. Nice to see the next gen got a speed upgrade!
for bigger things maybe the kobra max 2
So this printer gave me some great detail...
... for about 500 print hours...
... when so many parts of it decided to break at once, I had to get rid of it...
Caveat emptor...
Good timing for an FDM review of a good printer. Im looking at getting a nice one that can do what you just described. thanks for the info, buddy.
Happy to service you
Nice review! I wish other channels focused on high res quality of printers.
I don't, i’d loose an edge
Certainly looks good for mini terrain and bigger pieces. Is the comparable to resin for highly detailed 32mm and 75mm figures or would resin still be a better solution?
No, resin for miniatures, any day
Thank you for the review. I’m the same - i just want it to work without faffing around. Would love to see a video of it printing 28mm minis.
i wouldn't print 20mm minis on an FDM printer, it's just not the right thing IMO.
My main concern with this printer, and the printer it was based off of (Kobra NEO) is that I'd need to know if they changed the cables that run to the printer bed. The Kobra has always been known for having the cables to the bed fry themselves and throw a "MINTEMP: BED" error which needs to be fixed ultimately by replacing the bed entirely. This issue is known to happen within the first couple months of ownership.
I get that error when I turn it on and it's below 60 degrees outside. I print in a cabinet in my barn. I have to run a small space heater to get the cabinet up to temp before starting up the printer.
@@rickway2039 wtf crazy
I wouldn't know about this, I'm still new to these ones, sorry
I bought a replacement off amazon then requested a refund and sent in the broken one
This just started happening to me yesterday with my original Neo. Luckily I can still print just fine so long as I keep it to the back 2/3 of the bed as when the bed pushes all the way back so it can print on the front is when the cables strain and fail.
Support was quick to respond and has a replacement on the way, which is good because I've only had the thing 6 months. They must know this is an issue because they sent it no questions asked when I mentioned the error.
Love it if you'd mention price points for purchase. Know nothing about beans and types but looking to get something soon and be nice to find a good entry level plug and play that gives good prints.
this is a budget entry, bit other than budget, mid-tier and expensive. I hate mentioning price, this video need to remain relevant in a year from now and prices will change.
I was watching this.on another channel just yesterday about how low the printer company said it can go and what you should actually go I won't say channel names but was highly advised not to go that low but I've just started this month with anycubic resin printers my first mono 4k and I had to pick up a second the other day, I got the mono 2 and it's fantastic for straight out the box printing with no lines! Thisnis what I'm working on with the mono 4k adjustment settings now, I printed off a ww2 vignette on the mono 2 it was nice but can definitely see the plus in these FDM printers if they just done something with them lines!
It's just how the tr h works, splurge a out material. I wonder would a square nozzle show this less?
I’m really interested about getting into 3D printing, and I’m probably going to get this but I was wondering how do you add the files to the printer so it can print your 3D print
I got myself the kobra 2 max which is an absolute huge machine and I'm pretty happy with it. There are a few problems:
1. I have to calibrate the Z offset manually everytime i change the spool, even for the same filament. It's really annoying and I suspect the same for the other printers in the series.
2. The spool holder is an absolute nightmare! for a printert that size it is much to close to the print head in the lower position which means as it starts from the top it unwinds the spool and tangles the filament. I always have to fix that manually or it will knot up and get stuck.
3. the usb stick in the package is the worst I have ever seen in my life. It's unreliable to the point I threw it away.
I'm about to review it so I'll keep an eye out for these
@@FauxHammer If you do, could you please compare the power consumption? Due to the large print bed it might be a significant difference and one of the major drawbacks. Aside from that it is a Kobra 2 in the end.
Is this a good printer for beginners and would you recommend?
I'd always recommend something like the Bambu A1 or the Ankerrmake M5C over this if you can afford it. But otherwise yes, this is generally ok for beginners.
Ty
I'm definitely impressed with this printer
Great isn’t it!
@@FauxHammer I'm really very impressed for the price although my fdm days are over, I still have an og Ender 3 and a cr10s. Like yourself, I do still use fdm for certain prints. I use my resin printer for cartoon characters and my daughter paints them. I only have the mono 4k but anycubic have always impressed me. Great channel and excellent reviews 👍
@@tonywharton5220 thanks so much
yeah, I really don't want to care about the specs. I just want GOOD prints.
just a tip : I know DoF shots are cinematic, but I really want to see the whole model to judge it's quality.
Now I'm confused (after watching this first) whether this is a decent buy or not after watching the follow up videos on the pro and max :s
Good printer
Excuse my ignorance, but I did not know what you meant Naught point Naught layer height? I generally just say .1mm .3mm .2mm or .1, .2. So I was not sure what layer height you were talking about? And how to compare? Educate me please?
Nought = 0
So “nought point one” is 0.1
Thank you for this video! 🥰
Is this the Kobra Neo, the Kobra 2 of the Korba 2 Neo? Because the title says Kobra 2 but in the video you say Neo
It’s the 2, I slipped on my words in the video
Annette Walks
ok?
Can’t wait to see your A1 mini review! If it wasn’t for that coming out (at some point soon hopefully) if totally go out and buy this one based off this review
Get the A 1 mini if you can afford it
@@FauxHammer im waiting for them to sell just the unit without colour mixing. Hopefully wont have to wait for long. Will the quality match the Kobra2 or M5C do you know?
@@nickholl they already do, just click the main printer not the combo or mega-combo kit it's £270 shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2420414&u=3060349&m=138211&urllink=&afftrack=
(make sure you click your country it the top right first)
Thanks I'm you i just want good prints I' spent a lot of time watching vidios and you are right just want good prints!!!!😮
Thanks, I’m glad I took this approach on the video
Whats your settings To print? And you can print miniatures?
Got a link for a profile we can use for the same settings?
So far this is the frontrunner in my search to replace my Ender 3V2.
Not the Bambu A1?
@@FauxHammer I haven't seen anything on that one. I always just assume Bambu is too expensive 🤷♂️
@@Gregatron13 I'd look, it's not as big a build area. but I'm all-in on Bambu now until the rest catch up. (cheaper not as a combo) shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=2420414&u=3060349&m=138211&urllink=&afftrack=
@@FauxHammer It's so small!
my kobra max doesnt print up when printing the test files. instead it prints forward?
So total noob here, do I set the layer height on the slicing software?
That's what I wanted to hear "how easy is it to get printing. Is it easy to operate etc. Definitely got a new sub here. Great video I'm looking for a new printer too. Anycubic is on my short list
Thanks so much
I was looking into buying this machine as my first ever 3d printer. Are there things I need to look out for, things I need to buy extra or be careful off? Very helpful review, thank you very much for the info!
so this anycubic model can go up to 0.04 . Ok thanks