This is a fairly short video but surprisingly simple method for deleting all of the safety switches on your John Deere 100 series tractor/mower. Here I will show how I did it quick and easy but most importantly, I did it 𝐧𝐨𝐧-𝐝𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐫𝐮𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐯𝐞𝐥𝐲! This method could be undone in a couple minutes with nothing but a pocket knife to cut some heat-shrink and a couple of zip ties. Here is the complete playlist on this tractor -- ua-cam.com/video/1OM0kBGJCII/v-deo.html Equipment used in the making of this video: Camera -- amzn.to/3Dt9f48 Upgrade -- amzn.to/3NGunsf Multi-Meter -- amzn.to/3wUauYT Give a 👍 and subscribe 🔔 if you'd like to see more videos like this and thanks for watching 😃!
A new thought: Jumpering the two purple wires allows you to start the engine without pressing on the break, right? And zip-tieing the other switch allows you to engage the blades any time, right? They both have to work together to allow you to start the engine with the blades engaged and without having to step on the break, correct? I think I've got it but will wait for your word. Thanks!
@@GetRealBaby: Sorry for the late reply, I just got this message, with all the endless Google updates breaking everything, it's a miracle I caught it at all. The long and the short of it is this. I made this video "years" ago, I don't remember which wires do what anymore. I still have the same tractor and I still use it every season. But which wire does what? I can't remember, sorry.
Thanks for the great video! So I immediately found that the entire switch assembly had dislodged from it's mount under the seat. Unplugged it, and my wife was happy to have her little lawn tractor back running again. You know the reason for this was to protect them against law suits from those people that walk among us, and can't take responsibility for their own actions...
Great video! I like your no nonsense, straight to the point, no filter style! On my JD D130 I did disabling of the brake and blade then the seat was automatically disabled too I don't mind now but my original plan was to keep the seat enable only because my 18 year-old is the one using this mover but I explained that when he gets off mover for whatever reason while blade is on he must step away from blade cover. I think there's about half an inch or so from blade cover but safe to say just step away from it. Thank you!
On the seat plug after you've disconnected it pull one of the jumper wires out of the harness. That will allow you to start the motor and engage the blades without sitting on it. Good job on the brake switch, you the man.
Thanks! Your suggestion may work for some folks but my determination for this project was to "not" hack apart any connectors. Working with the 3 switches in tandem like I did is one way to do it non-destructively. Cheers 🍻.
I don't exactly remember. Anything in the 16-14 awg will be quite sufficient. I never measured current on any of the connectors, so I don't know for sure what they draw. Just stick with 16-14 awg and you'll be golden. It's what was already there in most cases and heavier in some spots if memory serves. Cheers 🍻
Came for the tutorial, subbed for the casual swearing. If you spend any time with any motorized implements of any kind you will find this to be the natural language of the land.
I expect this mower will last several seasons with decent care. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx1VWTrayKBdCKAjzAcZ_Eg4dhHTae3LkN also recommend Also, I ran across the problem with it not starting the 2nd time I used it. There is a safety switch which is pushed in by the chute or mulching piece being attached to the deck. I took the cover off and it wouldn't start. Put it back on, no problem. It takes only a minute with 2 easily accessible wingnuts and no tools. This mower starts up first crank each time and it is a joy to use. It also mows in reverse by putting the key to the reverse area after starting and pushing in the triangular button. It will stay in reverse mode until you turn it off. All in all, for my homeowner needs, I really like this mower-and at 70 bucks a cut here in Miami, it's already more than 1/3 paid for itself in a month.
Thank you , you made that so simple for me , I only had to come in the house once and look your video up to be sure I was putting the jumper on the correct set of purple.
Ok You're a genius 👏 🙌 ✨ ❤ because I want to mow with my L120 without the safety switches and haul it with my D125 or should do it the other way around?
Thank you for this video! One of my 1st mods I'm going to do! Couldn't agree more about how annoying the safety seat-switch is! My biggest complaint then the reverse blade cut-off! Thanks again man!!!
Having to press that button every time I back up sure does put a crimp in my life. Thanks for saving me. I also hate it when I can't start the mower while I'm standing up.
Super helpful. Especially since I was stupid and changed my solenoid because I had no fire when turning the key. I had the the damn blade engaged. Hadn’t used it in a year and forgot which way was which. At least I leaned what the backup while mowing button was. I had been disengaging the blade to back up. What a moron I am. Thanks for the education!
Thanks for sharing. I don't like how the engine sounds after a brief safety cutout, it sounds like a backfire. Since I just replaced the head gasket for the second time in 3 years (21HP B&S OHV issue) I now wonder if the occasional backfire is adding to my head gasket failure. I think I'm going to get rid of those safety switches.
By the sound of it you should check the fuel shut off solenoid and always idle down before turning the key off. But do take a good hard look at that shut off solenoid as the main culprit for the backfire. Cheers 🍻.
@@Finite-Tuning Thanks for the advice. What I was referring to is how the engine pops if you momentarily activate the safety, such as a bounce on the seat or reversing without hitting RIO. As the safety activates the engine stops firing but continues to rotate then, if the safety deactivates while it's still rotating the engine will surge back to life. The surge sounds exceptionally strong as the engine is going from lean to rich. At full throttle these brief interruptions seem to stress things - so I'm wondering if the engine is actually getting a double charge or firing out of order.
@@robertheim352: Yes, I understand now exactly what you mean, I think... Fuel cut is normally soft, but what you are describing is ignition cut under engine load. That is more abrupt, instant, and could definitely create a hard backfire from idle to wide open throttle under load. All that fuel coming into a hot engine and a momentary release of the seat switch will be enough to cause the ignition system to stop and then come right back when the seat switch is re-engaged. The entire time the ignition is cut, the engine is still drawing in fresh fuel. And there's your pop when the ignition comes back to life. Or that's what I'd expect it to be without laying hands on your actual machine to test. Try the bypass that I've shown and hopefully that solves the issue. If not, let me know what's happening, how and when and I'll do my best to help you remotely diagnose it. Cheers Robert 🍻.
They all sound like that now ! When we were kids we would shut of key while going down hill fast in our hot rods and turn key back on to get big backfire & blow the glass packs out .
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU! I put a jumper on the puple and white purple wires and it fixed my problem on the L110. I APPRECIATE YOU FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO! Thank you for saving me the cost of taking it in and paying too much money. Unfortunately I changed the battery and solenoid and key switch before checking safety switches. BUT it is an old mower and needed those parts replaced anyway. THANKS AGAIN! Liked, subscribed hit the notification bell.
On my G110 I ran a jumper wire from the ignition switch through an inline fuse and connected it to the starter solenoid, by passed all of the switches with one wire. Not the safest ideal but with me being the only one running it, it'll be fine.
I love the video I have a John Deere d 110 my wife's aunt gave us I'm curious did that relay burn out or was it all right you had mentioned that it puts on distress on the relay also why did you have to use the jumper again if you use the zip tie I thought that took care of it and you still have to use the PTO arm or you don't any longer
Thanks, I'm glad ya liked it! There was nothing wrong with the relay, they are designed to be energized but the longer you use a thing the sooner that thing will fail. That's all I meant. There was an easy way to bypass that circuit altogether and so there was no good reason to keep that relay energized. All these switches work in tandem, some go open while others go closed, I had to keep one of them in a closed state to make the system work. A zip tie was a very easy way of doing that job. This is an electro-mechanical system, I only bypassed the electrical part, but it is still very mechanical in nature. You must still use the PTO lever to engage the mower. Now that the electrical part is bypassed, there is nothing to prohibit the engagement of the mower. The tractor no longer cares if you're sitting on it or stepping on the brake or anything else for that matter. With these mods the engine will just start and run with the turn of a key and nothing else, the mower will just engage and run with the flick of a lever and nothing else, everything just works now regardless of you being on the tractor. Everything will now just keep on working until you physically stop it, or the engine runs out of gas, whichever comes first. Make sense? Cheers 🍻
This was my day for constant noise right when I wanted to do a simple thing. Some of you are clearly missing the laugh factor in this. Also, some of you have expressed your great distaste for the manly mans linguistic abilities which I possess. Well, tough shit! This is my channel and I'm going to show and tell my story my way with my incredible linguistic skills all the while using my camera and my microphone. So be sure to like and subscribe with bells and all that jazz.... Cheers 🍻.
Nice video 😊 I only wanted to go backwards while still cutting grass for trimming around trees and stuff. So all I did was moved the switch down by the transmission. I relocated it so that it couldn't be engaged when I went in reverse and that left the blade running. That's all. 🤗 🇨🇦
I have a D120. I just took it out of winter storage. It starts and runs fine but when I engage the PTO lever the mower deck will not kick on. Any suggestions on where to start? Enjoyed your video!
For starters, I'd check the belt to make sure it's intact and still on the pulleys. If the belt is good and properly positioned then I'd start testing safety switches. Cheers 🍻.
I think a simple on-off toggle switch for the reverse safety switch might be an easy fix. Just turn it off when you're done mowing, so the relay won't stay activated.(possibly draining the battery when the mower is off.).
The relay will not drain the battery, unless you wire in a toggle switch as you suggest. But this is your tractor, so make it work your way and always for you! Cheers sptrader 🍻.
Well for starters, it's a tractor not a go cart! You'd have to change some pulleys at the very least to get more speed out of the transaxle. Or just put some really big tires on the rear 🤣. Cheers 🍻
@@22-Bronc: Did you change the ratio in the correct direction? You would need a larger pulley on the engine or a smaller pulley on the transaxle. To the best of my knowledge, there is no internal limiting on the transaxle, so the faster the input the faster the output. Cheers 🍻
A big thank you for the video my wife couldn’t use the mower because she is only 5 feet tall and she leans to far forward her weight is insufficient for the pressure sensor switch.
It's one wire that does it all. It's a 12v purple wire on your solenoid. So make a Jumper that from the ignition switch straight to the solenoid and bamm all switches bypassed. It's easy and takes 5min.
You do you! I'm all about the process of discovery and understanding how things work. I didn't have a schematic to read from, I had to reverse engineer the system. My method can be done in 'less than 5 minutes' if using pre-made jumpers. But most importantly, my method is "Non Destructive" and can easily be undone.
When you said to just unplug the seat safety switch, you also said that a couple of other things needed to be tweaked to make it work. So just unplugging it won't bypass the seat safety switch?
Do you mean the parking brake switch connector? Either-way, what I showed in the video is exactly what I had to do to make the entire system work "my way". Another guy in the comments below mentioned that he used fuses to make the bypass/jumper, I think that's a really good idea he had! But for me to do this non destructively, well, you see what I came up with and it works perfectly for me and my needs. You should still test your system in case it is different then mine. Generally a series works the same for quite a while, but renditions of versions do occur time to time. Safest thing to do is view this guide as exactly that. Hope that answers your question. Cheers 🍻.
@@Finite-Tuning Thanks for the reply. Sorry my focus was on the switch to engage the blades. Before you zip tied the push switch you had put a jumper on another connector that didn't work. I wasn't sure if you needed to do both mods to make it work. I have a 120 and you were able to run reverse with blades engaged but the one day--you couldn't
@@theBullringLive : Yes, the parking brake switch. It must be jumped out before you can zip tie the PTO switch. When I said that it didn't work I think what I was talking about was that you cannot drive around with the parking brake on, so simply zip tying that switch wont work for that reason. I tested and bypassed and made this video all in the same day, I'm not sure what you are talking about otherwise. It's all in the video though, exactly 100% of everything that I did to make the system work "my way", it's all right there. Cheers 🍻.
Mine was hanging loose. I put a screw clamp on it, bending at the edges to make a square tight to hold the button down. It worked until the switch failed anyway.
I can deal with putting it in park and having to disengage the blades to keep it running without someone on it. I completely understand their reasoning for putting those on. My problem is the reverse switch. I have the e100 you have to manually shift it into reverse and then push the pedal in. Why would putting a switch on that even be considered necessary. I understand that they have to make it idiot proof so there's no excuse for someone to sue them but this just makes it less safe. I'm more worried about pushing the button as I'm shifting instead of looking behind me.
hello great informative vid..Thank you so much. Question. I have a JD125, almost exactly your machine. I have done nothing to it. Ran fine the other day, now it wont start. I hear the solenoid clicking in the carb when i turn the key, but that is it!. Battery reads 12.4 volts. I am about 70% confident its a saftey switch. I disconnected the seat switch for starters. that did not fix the issue. What would you do next. You seem very electronically inclined. What would you do next? Oh the 20 amp blade fuse is also good. Can you help?
By SAE standards, 12.3 volts is a practically dead battery, 12.6 volts is a fully charged battery, on paper. But here in the real world where people actually live, high 12 to 13'ish volts is the norm. I would charge the battery and note the difference if any. Next and the easiest thing to try if you suspect a safety switch, just simply power the starter directly to make sure the engine will turn over with the starter motor. That would confirm that you have a problem somewhere back stream in the system. Cheers 🍻.
THANK YOU...Dam I hate my la120 and all the switches. Couldn't get the mower to start so new battery, solenoid then ignition turns out it's that dam pto switch. There all gone now.
Hey there is a safety switch where u have to keep the cutter lever completely off for it to start, this dose not ally to me because I have taken the blades off so could you please tell me to turn the saftey switch off for the cutters
Yeah, that's pretty much it lol. I like the discovery process of learning how something works, but I think I'm one of the very few in that regard. Seems like most folks here just wanted the answer short and sweet. I do tend to ramble a bit, but I always get there in the end. Thanks for watchin! Cheers 🍻.
@@Finite-Tuning Oh, I enjoy figuring things out too. I also appreciate when someone else figures something out and shares it; especially when it comes to things I don't like; I don't like mowing. 😆 Cheers
I fucking love this guy. Tree roots cat road noise east button. This is how ordinary guys talk. And he’s 1 cleaner than me cause my daughters heard the phrase describing oral sex as often as the rest. Got one of these riders from John Deer and once the weather moderates above -40 I’m gonna push the fuckin EASY button. Thanks man
I always thought these went a little to the extreme until my Brother lost his breath and passed out while mowing. he fell off and the tractor stop the instant his weight left the seat. I look at this a little different since that happened' he may well have been run over. And the tractor would have continued going and who knows where it may have ended up even if it missed him?
Yes, check the battery, it should measure at least 12.6 volts. Then check grounds for corrosion, rust and/or looseness. Try a jump start, does it make a difference? Try to power the starter directly, does it crank? Those are some quick and easy things to test and try out. Cheers 🍻.
See at 10 min ur talking how the seat button u could clamp down but deck wouldn't work....? Why. See my seat sensor clip broke. And I clamped it down but deck won't engage. Looking for a fix.
I'm not sure what you're talking about. At 10:00 I make no mention of a seat button or switch. At 11:50 I'm talking about the PTO switch. The actual seat switch is just always, simply, disconnected.
I need to do this on mine. I once had to bypass my safety fuel shut off switch in the trunk of my car after my subwoofers would turn it off lol. It took so long to figure out why my car wouldn't start after 1500 watts and BB 12's in a grand marquis trunk 😆
Yep, that inertia switch has caused problems for many a ford owner. It's supposed to trip like a breaker during impact, problem is that a pot hole is enough to set it off sometimes, and a subwoofer, yep! The engine just won't run when that beat comes on lol. Cheers 🍻.
I tried putting a cinder block in the seat , start it and watch the deck belts run and see what was throughing it off , still wouldn't run , apparently it hast to have fkn ass prent in the seat before it will start
Lol, the switch is in the middle of the seat, apply enough pressure specifically there and if your switch is working that should be enough to activate it. Or just unplug it, that's what I did and there wasn't nothing more to the seat switch. Other switches had to be state changed to get full functionality, but it's real easy to do and non destructive if you follow the video. Cheers 🍻
All of at least 100 different things! Start by making sure you can spin the engine crank shaft by hand. If yes, then manually power the starter motor, if that work then your problem is up stream in a wire or a switch most likely.
dont forget there is a switch down by the rear axle when in reverse it pushes that in to ground out the motor while deck is engaged just unplug that, under the seat there is a metal busbar inside the plug you can pull out with needle nose pliers or small screw driver
The switch on the trans axle is a neutral safety switch, it's the only switch that makes any sens to have which is why I didn't even mention it in the video. It doesn't cause a problem leaving it intact, so I just left it alone. I'm not sure if it's functional, but it's not causing a problem so I just ignored it. P.S. I just used the tractor today and thought to test the N/S switch while starting the engine, and it is disabled. So unplugging it would be pointless. Following my method does indeed fully disable all of the safety switches, even the only one that is potentially useful. Cheers 🍻
I'm only 2:35 into video and I swear it might be me filming with the PG rated film language... easiest way I know is just unplug the s wire out of ING switch and unplug blue wire on solenoid run ur own wire between those points and presto everything is bypassed.
Cutter doesn’t come on without seat switch. I just ran the wires to the dash and connected it to a push pull switch, so I can cut, or tow a trailer and get on and off without it shutting down
This method I showed will work for this specific machine. If you have something different in model or year, then you have a different machine, period. In which case this video serves as a guide to show you what to look for despite the wire coloring. If you sent me schematics I could tell you how to defeat it. This machine didn't come with any schematics, I literally worked through the system piece by piece, switch by switch. I didn't know until I knew, but I tested and proved my way through this video. This method absolutely does work perfectly for this machine. I don't know what else to tell ya Jamie. Cheers 🍻.
Fuckin A brother!!...this is the best video I've found on how to bypass the bastard switches in these john deere mowers. One thing you didn't show though...how did you get the brake switch off?
There are plastic squeeze tabs on the back side of the switch, you can't really see them but you can feel them. They are identical to the PTO safety switch and that one you can see kinda from the bottom looking up. They are the same switch in fact. Hope that helps. Cheers 🍻
Yes, it is rules and regulations. But that only serves to spread the stupidity and idiocy, on a global scale. The better way is of coarse to show and teach people how to use a tool. But I have to push a button just to back up..... That broke my soul right there! Hens this video. Cheers 🍻
@@Finite-Tuning The fact that 44K+ viewers checked out this vid pretty much confirms the unpopularity of the RIO switch. I defeated mine on my LA135 years ago. I was looking to see how hard it was to do it on an X500 series machine which is why I came here - until I saw it was for the 100 series machines. On the 500's it's even easier (basically the exact same thing). We can at least thank JD for not making it harder to do than it is.
@@Finite-Tuning No way dude. Your Soul is rite where it shud be and Intact. Theyd like to break your soul as added benefit probably but all the Safety is just an example of the fine over engineering that came about for various reasons. Easy credit for school loans which in turn necessitates more jobs,which is doubleplus good as each person now gets 1 specialty job and also creates more as yet uneducated voters. A snake eating its own tail but has a known shelflife. Itd appear this non federal non reserve currency may have reached its use by date😏 1 can hope. Heres to owning nothing and being happy happy happy.🍻
This video is about a bypass, not a repair. You have to diagnose your problem. Does the engine spin by hand yes/no? If no then you know where to investigate further. Does the engine spin if you manually power the starter yes/no? If yes then your problem is upstream and likely electrical in nature.
@Finite-Tuning it'll spin but will not start. Unfortunately, i have spent money on repairs. New battery. New starter. New solenoid. New switches. New ignition switch. New fuel pump.
I feel your pain. Sometimes they can be easily bypassed, other-times you have to fight for the victory. I love a challenge, hey, walk me around the thing (in video) to show and tell what you've tried but specifically to show me all about this machine and your trial and error, and maybe I can help you solve the issue. Schematics are a God-send! But it's likely a simple fix regardless, lemme know.
The single most specific and absolute point of this video, is to bypass all safety switches 𝐍𝐨𝐧-𝐃𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐫𝐮𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐯𝐞𝐥𝐲! This singular point has definitely escaped more than a few. I'm seriously not being a dick here, but it sounds like you also missed the point. Of coarse there are many ways of bypassing all the safety switches, but not a single way I have seen or heard of on any other channel anywhere that did the same job 𝐍𝐨𝐧-𝐃𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐫𝐮𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐯𝐞𝐥𝐲! My goal was to simply learn how the system works, then modify it to do my bidding, 𝐍𝐨𝐧-𝐃𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐫𝐮𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐯𝐞𝐥𝐲! Mission accomplished..... Cheers 🍻
They put these switches on there most likely because some idiot got hurt and tried to Sue them. Anyone can file a lawsuit in the land of frivolous lawsuits.
You have to modify the other two switches also, I showed how to do this in the video. It won't work if you only unplug the seat switch, these switches work in tandem with one another, you have to modify them all. Or at least that's what I had to do to get my tractor to work properly.
Because I worked through the system, systematically and it would not function like that. I did try it, but then it disables the PTO if I remember correctly. Simply because, you can't mow with the parking brake engaged. So zip tying it would tell the electrical system the brake is still engaged. You need to open 2 terminals while closing the other two, that's the only way to bypass that particular circuit. At least in my case on this particular tractor.
@@Finite-Tuning Good point. Thank you. I also think you might have been the one pointing out that if you simply "Jump" the backup switch that you would be sending power to the relay all the time. I see an infinite amount of folks simply jumping that switch. Thank you for pointing out the fact of power going to the relay and the possibilities of burning up the relay or starting a fire.
@@davewilliams1097 No fires, no worries! Relays are built to work in both open and closed state, but all I was trying to say in the video is to keep the thing in it's natural state in this system for as long as possible. When you switch it's natural sate, it simply energizes a coil. Really it's not a big deal, but don't do it if you don't have to!
was able to use your video as a guide to get spark from the motor as per your video diagram. replacing carb and doing a full restore on deck and body and a motor tuneup refresh😊😊😊
lmao, my dude is pissed off. Great vid. Appreciate the how to, as I find that shit annoying as hell. Edit: ":That fucking cat." LMAO You need to rebrand yourself the pissed off mechanic and make more vids.... Edit: A clicky chunk chunk switch... Stop, my heart hurts im laughing so hard
Came here to get a quick summary after mowing and forgetting the reverse switch, which loads up with fuel the backfires and scares the shit out of a guy when restarting. Amazing I can let the sob roll down the hill backwards and out of control, and the blade doesn't care. God forbid I control it with reverse gear and both hands on the wheel. Stupid safety switches.
This is a fairly short video but surprisingly simple method for deleting all of the safety switches on your John Deere 100 series tractor/mower. Here I will show how I did it quick and easy but most importantly, I did it 𝐧𝐨𝐧-𝐝𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐫𝐮𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐯𝐞𝐥𝐲! This method could be undone in a couple minutes with nothing but a pocket knife to cut some heat-shrink and a couple of zip ties.
Here is the complete playlist on this tractor -- ua-cam.com/video/1OM0kBGJCII/v-deo.html
Equipment used in the making of this video:
Camera -- amzn.to/3Dt9f48
Upgrade -- amzn.to/3NGunsf
Multi-Meter -- amzn.to/3wUauYT
Give a 👍 and subscribe 🔔 if you'd like to see more videos like this and thanks for watching 😃!
A new thought: Jumpering the two purple wires allows you to start the engine without pressing on the break, right? And zip-tieing the other switch allows you to engage the blades any time, right? They both have to work together to allow you to start the engine with the blades engaged and without having to step on the break, correct? I think I've got it but will wait for your word. Thanks!
@@GetRealBaby:
Sorry for the late reply, I just got this message, with all the endless Google updates breaking everything, it's a miracle I caught it at all.
The long and the short of it is this. I made this video "years" ago, I don't remember which wires do what anymore. I still have the same tractor and I still use it every season. But which wire does what? I can't remember, sorry.
I get his frustration...so the f word vis appropriate here👍
Thanks for the great video! So I immediately found that the entire switch assembly had dislodged from it's mount under the seat. Unplugged it, and my wife was happy to have her little lawn tractor back running again. You know the reason for this was to protect them against law suits from those people that walk among us, and can't take responsibility for their own actions...
Glad this helped. I am well aware the need for safety switches.... Because stupid people keep breeding! Cheers 🍻
Great video! I like your no nonsense, straight to the point, no filter style! On my JD D130 I did disabling of the brake and blade then the seat was automatically disabled too I don't mind now but my original plan was to keep the seat enable only because my 18 year-old is the one using this mover but I explained that when he gets off mover for whatever reason while blade is on he must step away from blade cover. I think there's about half an inch or so from blade cover but safe to say just step away from it. Thank you!
After the 10th cuss within a minute, I feel 100% confident I have found the right content creator. Thanks ahead of time.
"I'm gonna stop right there. Just unplug it" just saved me some time and money
On the seat plug after you've disconnected it pull one of the jumper wires out of the harness. That will allow you to start the motor and engage the blades without sitting on it. Good job on the brake switch, you the man.
Thanks! Your suggestion may work for some folks but my determination for this project was to "not" hack apart any connectors. Working with the 3 switches in tandem like I did is one way to do it non-destructively.
Cheers 🍻.
What size red wire did you use to bypass the brake switch? Thanks in advance
I don't exactly remember. Anything in the 16-14 awg will be quite sufficient. I never measured current on any of the connectors, so I don't know for sure what they draw. Just stick with 16-14 awg and you'll be golden. It's what was already there in most cases and heavier in some spots if memory serves. Cheers 🍻
@@Finite-Tuning thank you sir.
Came for the tutorial, subbed for the casual swearing. If you spend any time with any motorized implements of any kind you will find this to be the natural language of the land.
Cheers GlockPointer 🍻.
I expect this mower will last several seasons with decent care. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx1VWTrayKBdCKAjzAcZ_Eg4dhHTae3LkN also recommend Also, I ran across the problem with it not starting the 2nd time I used it. There is a safety switch which is pushed in by the chute or mulching piece being attached to the deck. I took the cover off and it wouldn't start. Put it back on, no problem. It takes only a minute with 2 easily accessible wingnuts and no tools. This mower starts up first crank each time and it is a joy to use. It also mows in reverse by putting the key to the reverse area after starting and pushing in the triangular button. It will stay in reverse mode until you turn it off. All in all, for my homeowner needs, I really like this mower-and at 70 bucks a cut here in Miami, it's already more than 1/3 paid for itself in a month.
I just bypassed all my safety. Un plugged the switches and put some 30 amp standard blade fuses in the plug. Fit perfect and easy to remove.
Yep, that'll do it. Good idea!
Thank you , you made that so simple for me , I only had to come in the house once and look your video up to be sure I was putting the jumper on the correct set of purple.
I'm glad this helped.
Cheers 🍻
Ok
You're a genius 👏 🙌 ✨ ❤ because I want to mow with my L120 without the safety switches and haul it with my D125 or should do it the other way around?
Thank you for this video! One of my 1st mods I'm going to do! Couldn't agree more about how annoying the safety seat-switch is! My biggest complaint then the reverse blade cut-off! Thanks again man!!!
Cheers 🍻.
Having to press that button every time I back up sure does put a crimp in my life. Thanks for saving me. I also hate it when I can't start the mower while I'm standing up.
Donny boy 73 did a piece were all you have to do is sit the park break and then you can start at standing there
Super helpful. Especially since I was stupid and changed my solenoid because I had no fire when turning the key. I had the the damn blade engaged. Hadn’t used it in a year and forgot which way was which. At least I leaned what the backup while mowing button was. I had been disengaging the blade to back up. What a moron I am. Thanks for the education!
Hahaha, no worries, we all forget stuff. I'm glad this video helped you out, that's why I made it. Cheers 🍻.
“Knowings half the battle”
Subscribed
Go Joe!
Put the seat switch under a beer holder lol no beer, no start
Your my hero
☝️This lol
Thanks for taking the time to send this out ... Its been a real PIA ... with all the ridiculous safety devises,
Thanks for sharing. I don't like how the engine sounds after a brief safety cutout, it sounds like a backfire. Since I just replaced the head gasket for the second time in 3 years (21HP B&S OHV issue) I now wonder if the occasional backfire is adding to my head gasket failure. I think I'm going to get rid of those safety switches.
By the sound of it you should check the fuel shut off solenoid and always idle down before turning the key off. But do take a good hard look at that shut off solenoid as the main culprit for the backfire.
Cheers 🍻.
@@Finite-Tuning Thanks for the advice. What I was referring to is how the engine pops if you momentarily activate the safety, such as a bounce on the seat or reversing without hitting RIO. As the safety activates the engine stops firing but continues to rotate then, if the safety deactivates while it's still rotating the engine will surge back to life. The surge sounds exceptionally strong as the engine is going from lean to rich. At full throttle these brief interruptions seem to stress things - so I'm wondering if the engine is actually getting a double charge or firing out of order.
@@robertheim352:
Yes, I understand now exactly what you mean, I think... Fuel cut is normally soft, but what you are describing is ignition cut under engine load. That is more abrupt, instant, and could definitely create a hard backfire from idle to wide open throttle under load. All that fuel coming into a hot engine and a momentary release of the seat switch will be enough to cause the ignition system to stop and then come right back when the seat switch is re-engaged. The entire time the ignition is cut, the engine is still drawing in fresh fuel.
And there's your pop when the ignition comes back to life. Or that's what I'd expect it to be without laying hands on your actual machine to test.
Try the bypass that I've shown and hopefully that solves the issue. If not, let me know what's happening, how and when and I'll do my best to help you remotely diagnose it.
Cheers Robert 🍻.
They all sound like that now ! When we were kids we would shut of key while going down hill fast in our hot rods and turn key back on to get big backfire & blow the glass packs out .
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU! I put a jumper on the puple and white purple wires and it fixed my problem on the L110. I APPRECIATE YOU FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO! Thank you for saving me the cost of taking it in and paying too much money. Unfortunately I changed the battery and solenoid and key switch before checking safety switches. BUT it is an old mower and needed those parts replaced anyway. THANKS AGAIN! Liked, subscribed hit the notification bell.
Cheers 🍻
Cheers! 👍
On my G110 I ran a jumper wire from the ignition switch through an inline fuse and connected it to the starter solenoid, by passed all of the switches with one wire. Not the safest ideal but with me being the only one running it, it'll be fine.
Damn right it's fine. It's your tractor, make it work your way for you!
Cheers man 🍻.
Which wire at the ignition switch? Do you have a link to a diagram or picture?
On your brake switch you put a jumper on the purple wires what did you do with the white wire did you leave them open
Yes, they remain open.
Good job, you won the battle,,,,No more annoying safety crap😎
I love the video I have a John Deere d 110 my wife's aunt gave us I'm curious did that relay burn out or was it all right you had mentioned that it puts on distress on the relay also why did you have to use the jumper again if you use the zip tie I thought that took care of it and you still have to use the PTO arm or you don't any longer
Thanks, I'm glad ya liked it!
There was nothing wrong with the relay, they are designed to be energized but the longer you use a thing the sooner that thing will fail. That's all I meant. There was an easy way to bypass that circuit altogether and so there was no good reason to keep that relay energized. All these switches work in tandem, some go open while others go closed, I had to keep one of them in a closed state to make the system work. A zip tie was a very easy way of doing that job. This is an electro-mechanical system, I only bypassed the electrical part, but it is still very mechanical in nature. You must still use the PTO lever to engage the mower. Now that the electrical part is bypassed, there is nothing to prohibit the engagement of the mower.
The tractor no longer cares if you're sitting on it or stepping on the brake or anything else for that matter. With these mods the engine will just start and run with the turn of a key and nothing else, the mower will just engage and run with the flick of a lever and nothing else, everything just works now regardless of you being on the tractor. Everything will now just keep on working until you physically stop it, or the engine runs out of gas, whichever comes first. Make sense?
Cheers 🍻
This was my day for constant noise right when I wanted to do a simple thing. Some of you are clearly missing the laugh factor in this. Also, some of you have expressed your great distaste for the manly mans linguistic abilities which I possess. Well, tough shit! This is my channel and I'm going to show and tell my story my way with my incredible linguistic skills all the while using my camera and my microphone. So be sure to like and subscribe with bells and all that jazz....
Cheers 🍻.
@@joetimmer4303:
Yeah, whatever he said!
Dude you must be my long lost brother because you sound just like me!! I couldn't have said or did this video any differently lol
Nice video 😊 I only wanted to go backwards while still cutting grass for trimming around trees and stuff. So all I did was moved the switch down by the transmission. I relocated it so that it couldn't be engaged when I went in reverse and that left the blade running. That's all. 🤗 🇨🇦
Easier to just unplug it.
LOL! I would be frustrated too if I had all that noise to deal with when talking. Thanks for the video, I had a good laugh too.
I have a D120. I just took it out of winter storage. It starts and runs fine but when I engage the PTO lever the mower deck will not kick on. Any suggestions on where to start? Enjoyed your video!
For starters, I'd check the belt to make sure it's intact and still on the pulleys. If the belt is good and properly positioned then I'd start testing safety switches. Cheers 🍻.
You might also check your PTO cable. It may have broken, come undone, or stretched. It is adjustable on the mower deck.
much appreciated this clip couldn't start my JD 100 bypass the safety and got it going -thanks much greatly appreciated
I'm glad this helped you out. Cheers 🍻
So for this to run the brake switch completes the circuit from purple to purple tracer and opens the white and white tracer wires?
I did all this years ago, I can't remember the entire system. Whatever I said in the video is the way it has to be to work as show.
I think a simple on-off toggle switch for the reverse safety switch might be an easy fix. Just turn it off when you're done mowing, so the relay won't stay activated.(possibly draining the battery when the mower is off.).
The relay will not drain the battery, unless you wire in a toggle switch as you suggest. But this is your tractor, so make it work your way and always for you!
Cheers sptrader 🍻.
Great video simple and right to the point Thanks...
I agree and feel the same damn way! Thank you! I like your PC language! Down to earth and tell it like it is! 👍👍👍
Do you live next to a rock quarry? Great video despite the rude interruption by every dump truck in existence, ha ha!
I'm nowhere near a quarry, but you'd never know it by the traffic around here at times. Cheers 🍻
Thank you for making this video Sir. The John Deere is much better now .
Within the first 90 seconds we became best friends 😂
Cheers 🍻 my friend!
Is there something limiting to speed of a John deere L108 I’ve been trying to make mine in to a go cart but it isn’t working
Well for starters, it's a tractor not a go cart! You'd have to change some pulleys at the very least to get more speed out of the transaxle. Or just put some really big tires on the rear 🤣.
Cheers 🍻
@@Finite-Tuning I did swap the pulley but it feel like it’s the same speed
@@22-Bronc:
Did you change the ratio in the correct direction? You would need a larger pulley on the engine or a smaller pulley on the transaxle. To the best of my knowledge, there is no internal limiting on the transaxle, so the faster the input the faster the output.
Cheers 🍻
@@Finite-Tuning it’s a 8in pulley on the engine and a 4in on the axle I have no clue what’s wrong
@@22-Bronc:
I don't know either. You can always try some really big rear tires 😁.
A big thank you for the video my wife couldn’t use the mower because she is only 5 feet tall and she leans to far forward her weight is insufficient for the pressure sensor switch.
Cheers Rod 🍻.
Great video I wanted to disable these safety's since I got my JD last year.
Thank you! Cheers 🍻
Great video, bro! The cat comment had me in tears🤣 Been there before!
It's one wire that does it all. It's a 12v purple wire on your solenoid. So make a Jumper that from the ignition switch straight to the solenoid and bamm all switches bypassed. It's easy and takes 5min.
You do you! I'm all about the process of discovery and understanding how things work. I didn't have a schematic to read from, I had to reverse engineer the system. My method can be done in 'less than 5 minutes' if using pre-made jumpers. But most importantly, my method is "Non Destructive" and can easily be undone.
When you said to just unplug the seat safety switch, you also said that a couple of other things needed to be tweaked to make it work. So just unplugging it won't bypass the seat safety switch?
Unplugging the seat switch is enough to bypass it but I don't think you can engage the mower with it unplugged. I show how to do it all in the video.
Good job on testing and bypassing the safety switches. The language didn't bother me in the least.
Cheers Fritz 🍻.
The true shade-tree mechanic
😁.... Cheers 🍻
My tractor (same as yours) suddenly started stalling out when I release the clutch.... That "Jumper" on the purple wires FIXED IT. Thanks!
You're welcome.
Cheers 🍻.
I know the safety sensor is broken and replacement would fix it... But DON't want the damn safety. JD must be required by gov. to install that shit.
I have an old lt1000 craftsman, does anyone know how I can mow in reverse without the engine shutting off?
Did you need to use the jumper on that lower connector as well?
Do you mean the parking brake switch connector? Either-way, what I showed in the video is exactly what I had to do to make the entire system work "my way". Another guy in the comments below mentioned that he used fuses to make the bypass/jumper, I think that's a really good idea he had! But for me to do this non destructively, well, you see what I came up with and it works perfectly for me and my needs. You should still test your system in case it is different then mine. Generally a series works the same for quite a while, but renditions of versions do occur time to time. Safest thing to do is view this guide as exactly that. Hope that answers your question.
Cheers 🍻.
@@Finite-Tuning Thanks for the reply. Sorry my focus was on the switch to engage the blades. Before you zip tied the push switch you had put a jumper on another connector that didn't work. I wasn't sure if you needed to do both mods to make it work. I have a 120 and you were able to run reverse with blades engaged but the one day--you couldn't
@@theBullringLive :
Yes, the parking brake switch. It must be jumped out before you can zip tie the PTO switch. When I said that it didn't work I think what I was talking about was that you cannot drive around with the parking brake on, so simply zip tying that switch wont work for that reason.
I tested and bypassed and made this video all in the same day, I'm not sure what you are talking about otherwise. It's all in the video though, exactly 100% of everything that I did to make the system work "my way", it's all right there.
Cheers 🍻.
@@Finite-Tuning Cool! Thanks for clarifying.
Mine was hanging loose. I put a screw clamp on it, bending at the edges to make a square tight to hold the button down. It worked until the switch failed anyway.
I can deal with putting it in park and having to disengage the blades to keep it running without someone on it. I completely understand their reasoning for putting those on. My problem is the reverse switch. I have the e100 you have to manually shift it into reverse and then push the pedal in. Why would putting a switch on that even be considered necessary. I understand that they have to make it idiot proof so there's no excuse for someone to sue them but this just makes it less safe. I'm more worried about pushing the button as I'm shifting instead of looking behind me.
Great video! Subbed and thumbs up. Thank you for solving all my safety feature dilemmas. You da man.
I like the bad language! Answer to your question, whenever you see a safety sticker or warning it’s because the manufacturer was sued for an accident.
hello great informative vid..Thank you so much. Question. I have a JD125, almost exactly your machine. I have done nothing to it. Ran fine the other day, now it wont start. I hear the solenoid clicking in the carb when i turn the key, but that is it!. Battery reads 12.4 volts. I am about 70% confident its a saftey switch. I disconnected the seat switch for starters. that did not fix the issue. What would you do next. You seem very electronically inclined. What would you do next? Oh the 20 amp blade fuse is also good. Can you help?
By SAE standards, 12.3 volts is a practically dead battery, 12.6 volts is a fully charged battery, on paper. But here in the real world where people actually live, high 12 to 13'ish volts is the norm. I would charge the battery and note the difference if any.
Next and the easiest thing to try if you suspect a safety switch, just simply power the starter directly to make sure the engine will turn over with the starter motor. That would confirm that you have a problem somewhere back stream in the system.
Cheers 🍻.
THANK YOU...Dam I hate my la120 and all the switches. Couldn't get the mower to start so new battery, solenoid then ignition turns out it's that dam pto switch. There all gone now.
The tip worked with the zip tie, THANKS!!
Hey there is a safety switch where u have to keep the cutter lever completely off for it to start, this dose not ally to me because I have taken the blades off so could you please tell me to turn the saftey switch off for the cutters
I showed in the video, exactly how I defeated that switch.
My john deer zero turn mower I diconected the safety swich on the seat but had to put a jumper wire on the plug to make it work.
In summary, unplug seat switch, jump purple to purple on brake switch and purple to purple on blade/pto switch. Thanks for video and testing!
Yeah, that's pretty much it lol. I like the discovery process of learning how something works, but I think I'm one of the very few in that regard. Seems like most folks here just wanted the answer short and sweet. I do tend to ramble a bit, but I always get there in the end. Thanks for watchin!
Cheers 🍻.
@@Finite-Tuning Oh, I enjoy figuring things out too. I also appreciate when someone else figures something out and shares it; especially when it comes to things I don't like; I don't like mowing. 😆 Cheers
I fucking love this guy. Tree roots cat road noise east button. This is how ordinary guys talk. And he’s 1 cleaner than me cause my daughters heard the phrase describing oral sex as often as the rest. Got one of these riders from John Deer and once the weather moderates above -40 I’m gonna push the fuckin EASY button. Thanks man
Cheers 🍻
Thanks for the video man. Definitely helped.
I always thought these went a little to the extreme until my Brother lost his breath and passed out while mowing. he fell off and the tractor stop the instant his weight left the seat. I look at this a little different since that happened' he may well have been run over. And the tractor would have continued going and who knows where it may have ended up even if it missed him?
Good point, but still one in a million. Cheers.
@@Finite-Tuning no do research ppl did of mowers goin over em everyday bro🤦♂️🤣
I have a d140, starter clicking won’t start, any idea
Yes, check the battery, it should measure at least 12.6 volts. Then check grounds for corrosion, rust and/or looseness. Try a jump start, does it make a difference? Try to power the starter directly, does it crank? Those are some quick and easy things to test and try out.
Cheers 🍻.
See at 10 min ur talking how the seat button u could clamp down but deck wouldn't work....? Why. See my seat sensor clip broke. And I clamped it down but deck won't engage. Looking for a fix.
I'm not sure what you're talking about. At 10:00 I make no mention of a seat button or switch. At 11:50 I'm talking about the PTO switch. The actual seat switch is just always, simply, disconnected.
Finite ... When I unplugged my seat switch, the motor stops when I engage the PTO.... Can you help me ?
When you unplug seat the wire that's black that makes loop! Pull one side out tractor will start
I need to do this on mine. I once had to bypass my safety fuel shut off switch in the trunk of my car after my subwoofers would turn it off lol. It took so long to figure out why my car wouldn't start after 1500 watts and BB 12's in a grand marquis trunk 😆
Yep, that inertia switch has caused problems for many a ford owner. It's supposed to trip like a breaker during impact, problem is that a pot hole is enough to set it off sometimes, and a subwoofer, yep! The engine just won't run when that beat comes on lol.
Cheers 🍻.
Thanks for information to disconnect unnecessary bull-_hit safetys
Cheers 🍻
I tried putting a cinder block in the seat , start it and watch the deck belts run and see what was throughing it off , still wouldn't run , apparently it hast to have fkn ass prent in the seat before it will start
Lol, the switch is in the middle of the seat, apply enough pressure specifically there and if your switch is working that should be enough to activate it. Or just unplug it, that's what I did and there wasn't nothing more to the seat switch. Other switches had to be state changed to get full functionality, but it's real easy to do and non destructive if you follow the video. Cheers 🍻
Could it be a two cinder block seat
What can. Cause these to not turn over
All of at least 100 different things! Start by making sure you can spin the engine crank shaft by hand. If yes, then manually power the starter motor, if that work then your problem is up stream in a wire or a switch most likely.
Thanks for this. I have an E120 and those fucking safety switches are pissing me off. You just saved me an hour of tracing!
Cheers 🍻
dont forget there is a switch down by the rear axle when in reverse it pushes that in to ground out the motor while deck is engaged just unplug that, under the seat there is a metal busbar inside the plug you can pull out with needle nose pliers or small screw driver
The switch on the trans axle is a neutral safety switch, it's the only switch that makes any sens to have which is why I didn't even mention it in the video. It doesn't cause a problem leaving it intact, so I just left it alone. I'm not sure if it's functional, but it's not causing a problem so I just ignored it.
P.S. I just used the tractor today and thought to test the N/S switch while starting the engine, and it is disabled. So unplugging it would be pointless. Following my method does indeed fully disable all of the safety switches, even the only one that is potentially useful.
Cheers 🍻
30 seconds in I'm laughing and nodding my head. This country has gone to crap. Just got me a used LA 105 and gonna mod mine. Thanks!
Cheers 🍻
Awesome dude. Those are a pain in the ass. Mostly when on breaks!
There is a 2 wire connector on the top right side of the transmission. Just unplug it to disable RIO, very simple!
That will not achieve my objective here which is to disable/bypass "all" of the safety switches. But it may be an option for some.
Cheers 🍻.
@doc leadpiil by RIO you mean unplug it to bypass the reverse safety press in button correct? What does RIO stand for?
anybody know what happens if you jump the other two white wires on the brake safety switch?
A mushroom cloud will appear and WW3 begins.
Cheers 😁🍻
Next they will have ABS lol. Back up alarm beep beep , air bags haha
Absolutely love this guy
Big Thank You ... Good Works 👏
I just pulled the button out pushed button in drilled small hole and put pin in replaced button.
I'm only 2:35 into video and I swear it might be me filming with the PG rated film language... easiest way I know is just unplug the s wire out of ING switch and unplug blue wire on solenoid run ur own wire between those points and presto everything is bypassed.
Cutter doesn’t come on without seat switch. I just ran the wires to the dash and connected it to a push pull switch, so I can cut, or tow a trailer and get on and off without it shutting down
This method I showed will work for this specific machine. If you have something different in model or year, then you have a different machine, period. In which case this video serves as a guide to show you what to look for despite the wire coloring. If you sent me schematics I could tell you how to defeat it. This machine didn't come with any schematics, I literally worked through the system piece by piece, switch by switch. I didn't know until I knew, but I tested and proved my way through this video.
This method absolutely does work perfectly for this machine. I don't know what else to tell ya Jamie.
Cheers 🍻.
Fuckin A brother!!...this is the best video I've found on how to bypass the bastard switches in these john deere mowers. One thing you didn't show though...how did you get the brake switch off?
There are plastic squeeze tabs on the back side of the switch, you can't really see them but you can feel them. They are identical to the PTO safety switch and that one you can see kinda from the bottom looking up. They are the same switch in fact. Hope that helps. Cheers 🍻
Got it off!! Cheers!!
luv the start , so funny
I'm sure JD has to do this to either meet Federal Safety guidelines and/or avoid frivolous lawsuits. They can be bypassed by a little effort.
Yes, it is rules and regulations. But that only serves to spread the stupidity and idiocy, on a global scale. The better way is of coarse to show and teach people how to use a tool. But I have to push a button just to back up..... That broke my soul right there! Hens this video. Cheers 🍻
@@Finite-Tuning The fact that 44K+ viewers checked out this vid pretty much confirms the unpopularity of the RIO switch. I defeated mine on my LA135 years ago. I was looking to see how hard it was to do it on an X500 series machine which is why I came here - until I saw it was for the 100 series machines. On the 500's it's even easier (basically the exact same thing). We can at least thank JD for not making it harder to do than it is.
@@Finite-Tuning No way dude. Your Soul is rite where it shud be and Intact. Theyd like to break your soul as added benefit probably but all the Safety is just an example of the fine over engineering that came about for various reasons. Easy credit for school loans which in turn necessitates more jobs,which is doubleplus good as each person now gets 1 specialty job and also creates more as yet uneducated voters. A snake eating its own tail but has a known shelflife. Itd appear this non federal non reserve currency may have reached its use by date😏 1 can hope. Heres to owning nothing and being happy happy happy.🍻
On these switches that press a plunger in , just use a custom cut piece of wood , press the wood and switch together and zip tie
I have new S110 and this worked like a charm. Thanks for your research and expertise. We all know the "why" is blood sucking attorneys.
A-men!
Cheers 🍻
Thanks 4 helping me fix my problem
That's what I like to hear. I'm glad I could help. Cheers 🍻
I tried everything, and still no click, no start. I don't know what else to do?
This video is about a bypass, not a repair. You have to diagnose your problem.
Does the engine spin by hand yes/no? If no then you know where to investigate further.
Does the engine spin if you manually power the starter yes/no? If yes then your problem is upstream and likely electrical in nature.
@@Finite-Tuning yes it spins by hand.
@@Asanch79 :
And the starter? Did you energize it, does it spin the engine?
@Finite-Tuning it'll spin but will not start. Unfortunately, i have spent money on repairs. New battery. New starter. New solenoid. New switches. New ignition switch. New fuel pump.
@@Asanch79 :
This is why we test first, prove second, replace third, specifically in that order!
Will the engine start on starting fluid?
did this,it worked, thank you so very much!
Cheers Bruce 🍻.
@@Finite-Tuning zip tying all the safety switches did the trick, genius! thanks again!
💯 agree with cat road roots and safety s…! 👏😂
Cheers 🍻
Blame the lawyers for the frustration. Engineers feel the same way but are legally responsible
i hate safety switches to but i have a Z425 zero turn.. ive replaced every switch and still can't engage the deck.. SICK OF SAFETY SWITCHES
I feel your pain. Sometimes they can be easily bypassed, other-times you have to fight for the victory. I love a challenge, hey, walk me around the thing (in video) to show and tell what you've tried but specifically to show me all about this machine and your trial and error, and maybe I can help you solve the issue. Schematics are a God-send! But it's likely a simple fix regardless, lemme know.
When you lock the parking brake it will start and run without being in the seat.
Could have removed white wire from the solenoid and replaced it with a new wire straight from the ignition switch
The single most specific and absolute point of this video, is to bypass all safety switches 𝐍𝐨𝐧-𝐃𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐫𝐮𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐯𝐞𝐥𝐲! This singular point has definitely escaped more than a few. I'm seriously not being a dick here, but it sounds like you also missed the point. Of coarse there are many ways of bypassing all the safety switches, but not a single way I have seen or heard of on any other channel anywhere that did the same job 𝐍𝐨𝐧-𝐃𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐫𝐮𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐯𝐞𝐥𝐲! My goal was to simply learn how the system works, then modify it to do my bidding, 𝐍𝐨𝐧-𝐃𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐫𝐮𝐜𝐭𝐢𝐯𝐞𝐥𝐲! Mission accomplished..... Cheers 🍻
They put these switches on there most likely because some idiot got hurt and tried to Sue them. Anyone can file a lawsuit in the land of frivolous lawsuits.
@Finite Tuning ... When I unplugged my seat switch, the motor stops when I engage the PTO.... Can you help me ?
You have to modify the other two switches also, I showed how to do this in the video. It won't work if you only unplug the seat switch, these switches work in tandem with one another, you have to modify them all. Or at least that's what I had to do to get my tractor to work properly.
Just curious why you couldn't just zip tie the brake switch like the PTO switch?
Because I worked through the system, systematically and it would not function like that. I did try it, but then it disables the PTO if I remember correctly. Simply because, you can't mow with the parking brake engaged. So zip tying it would tell the electrical system the brake is still engaged. You need to open 2 terminals while closing the other two, that's the only way to bypass that particular circuit. At least in my case on this particular tractor.
@@Finite-Tuning Good point. Thank you. I also think you might have been the one pointing out that if you simply "Jump" the backup switch that you would be sending power to the relay all the time. I see an infinite amount of folks simply jumping that switch. Thank you for pointing out the fact of power going to the relay and the possibilities of burning up the relay or starting a fire.
@@davewilliams1097 No fires, no worries! Relays are built to work in both open and closed state, but all I was trying to say in the video is to keep the thing in it's natural state in this system for as long as possible. When you switch it's natural sate, it simply energizes a coil. Really it's not a big deal, but don't do it if you don't have to!
was able to use your video as a guide to get spark from the motor as per your video diagram. replacing carb and doing a full restore on deck and body and a motor tuneup refresh😊😊😊
Glad it helped. Cheers 🍻
It’s always hard to watch a video when people talk too much. Thanks for the help though
lmao, my dude is pissed off. Great vid. Appreciate the how to, as I find that shit annoying as hell.
Edit: ":That fucking cat." LMAO You need to rebrand yourself the pissed off mechanic and make more vids....
Edit: A clicky chunk chunk switch... Stop, my heart hurts im laughing so hard
This day was definitely one of those days.....
Cheers 🍻
@@Finite-Tuning Cheers!!
Came here to get a quick summary after mowing and forgetting the reverse switch, which loads up with fuel the backfires and scares the shit out of a guy when restarting. Amazing I can let the sob roll down the hill backwards and out of control, and the blade doesn't care. God forbid I control it with reverse gear and both hands on the wheel. Stupid safety switches.
A-men..... That mow in revers switch is anything but safe!
Cheers 🍻.
Thanks for the fuckin video! I learned a fuckin lot. Too bad about the fuckin cat and the fuckin noisy road!