My daughter bought her first vehicle, a 2005 Ford Ranger FX4 Level 2. It’s in great shape, but will probably need bushings and ball joints. This looks like an easy fix, glad you posted it now I will easily be able to swap those control arms out.
Nice lookin truck dude. I had a 2011 2.3 ranger with the duratec motor. It was immaculate and looked like a brand new truck. I got rear ended like 4 years ago I was at a dead stop and got hit by a guy going 55mph in a 25mph zone looking down at his phone. Hit me so hard my radio flew out. Took 9 months to settle on insurance payment. They gave me $15k and of course I lost money from all the work and parts I put into it but now I have a near immaculate 2003 ranger edge 3.0
Just had these and lower ball changed on my 05 Ranger FX4 Off Road. Labor wasn’t cheap that’s for sure. Plus I put new shocks and leveling kit on it. Just got new tires today. Truck looks great!
When I changed the upper control arm on my 2008 2wd Ranger, I put jack under the lower control arm that way preload is already set when tightening bolts because all the weight is on the coil spring.
Nice. I love the rangers and kick myself for selling the 4wd I had but a buddy needed it and I had my little 2.3l xlt just sitting around. 2000 with 100,000 miles and runs great and I love it. Will find another 4wd I'm sure, and I'll need it as I'm about to retire. Will be ordering stuff from your store now but wish you had a larger webpage. Looking forward to doing business with you and thanks for the vids. If not for them, I would not order parts. I think it's a way to thank you for a great vid.
You aren't supposed to tighten the bolts on the upper control arm until you let the truck down to add load or rather preload. Then you torque them to 83-103ftlbs.
JUST GET spray-on lithium grease. Spray the top and bottom of the ball joint.... The problem is solved for me. Mine squeaked with every turn and speed bump I hit driving slow or fast. It was loud and horrible sounding.
@@jingles373 I ended up going with the non greasable Moog upper and lower control arms. Mevotech sway bar bushings and links. Cleared up my squeaking that I was experiencing. Thanks for the video!
What if the opening on the knuckle is to small because the owner had wrong arm n he tightened it up n it practically closed the slot? I've tried to use a chisel n open it up n have gotten it bigger but the arm/ball joint won't go in, I even heated it up, I can't get the original back in either, im afraid if I keep hammering on it trying to split the gap more it could break, anyone have any advice? Thanks for any help.
If you're trying to open it up while it's still on the truck remove the steering knuckle and work on it on the work bench. If it breaks go to the junk yard and get another knuckle. It shouldn't cost very much.
I think you inadvertently showed us how to add positive camber. Tighten control arm bolts BEFORE lowering vehicle?...hmmm. No cam bolts needed. (Only kidding)
Nah you lied about how to get the correct ride hight you didn't even mention it and that's the most important thing to know especially if your posting videos for others to see and then they go do this and end up having ah ride hight issue that is completely off because of misinformation
After watching this I was confident enough to do this myself. Mine was a bit trickier coming out and putting in but I did get it thanks to this video.
My daughter bought her first vehicle, a 2005 Ford Ranger FX4 Level 2. It’s in great shape, but will probably need bushings and ball joints. This looks like an easy fix, glad you posted it now I will easily be able to swap those control arms out.
Nice Craig! Stay tuned for a video on low ball joints as well!
Nice lookin truck dude. I had a 2011 2.3 ranger with the duratec motor. It was immaculate and looked like a brand new truck. I got rear ended like 4 years ago I was at a dead stop and got hit by a guy going 55mph in a 25mph zone looking down at his phone. Hit me so hard my radio flew out. Took 9 months to settle on insurance payment. They gave me $15k and of course I lost money from all the work and parts I put into it but now I have a near immaculate 2003 ranger edge 3.0
Just had these and lower ball changed on my 05 Ranger FX4 Off Road. Labor wasn’t cheap that’s for sure. Plus I put new shocks and leveling kit on it. Just got new tires today. Truck looks great!
When I changed the upper control arm on my 2008 2wd Ranger, I put jack under the lower control arm that way preload is already set when tightening bolts because all the weight is on the coil spring.
Bro you just saved my ass with this video im changing these tomorrow after work yeee!
Thanks my friend, I am ready for job in my truck. Im from Argentina
Good video plus I learned a new word- ‘exstallation’.
God bless you my 06 Ford 4x4 4.0 steering is nice and tight no more squeaking and no more death wobble at 90 mph
Awesome you point out it out, its definitely worth the $20 to change camber adjustment bolts. It will save your tires
AWSMOME VIDEO, now I know how to change my UPPER CONTROL ARM.
I'm impressed guy thank you great work.😊
Another great tutorial video by LDB. Anti seize is your friend for sure I learned that a long time ago. Good work buddy keep the videos coming.
Thanks buddy will do!
just the video i needed to make this simple install, thanks
Anybody doing this get an alignment as soon as you are done. Anytime u mess with suspension or control arm cambers an alignment should be done
bruh you need to tighten that shit with the car on the ground lol
Nice. I love the rangers and kick myself for selling the 4wd I had but a buddy needed it and I had my little 2.3l xlt just sitting around. 2000 with 100,000 miles and runs great and I love it. Will find another 4wd I'm sure, and I'll need it as I'm about to retire. Will be ordering stuff from your store now but wish you had a larger webpage.
Looking forward to doing business with you and thanks for the vids. If not for them, I would not order parts. I think it's a way to thank you for a great vid.
Good job. I'll be doing the same on my Ranger. I just wish the replacement bj had a grease fitting.
Excellent video. Thank you
You aren't supposed to tighten the bolts on the upper control arm until you let the truck down to add load or rather preload. Then you torque them to 83-103ftlbs.
Good Work! Its just what i needed. Thaks
Final torque under load (put the wheel back on, lower, then torque down the arm bolts).
You forgot to pre load
Do those cause your truck to squeak when they go out
Petitioning to have "EXTALATION" added to the dictionary as an official word.
That little plate helps to control camber angle, but is used mostly for caster.
Thanks mate!
i just bought the 2004 ranger fx4 level 2 and i noticed the passenger side upper ball joint has a gap like its not sitting lll the way in but it is
Does your ranger have a lift which causes the steep angle on the control arm tie rod?
Hi just yo make sure ...on driver side do i need camber bolt kit to aligment...or the originals ill be fine? Thank you
Very clear explanation thanks a lot, I have a question, is it posible to rectify (refurbish) the old arm in orden to save some money???' Tks.
For what it's worth a moog control arm is $35 dollars on Amazon..easier to just replace
Good stuff, thanks for the tutorial!
Nice video
Muy bien
Any particular reason to replace the part. Just finished replacing the lower ball joint myself last week.
I had some clunking coming from the front end and closer inspection revealed that it was the ball joint being worn out that caused the sound.
JUST GET spray-on lithium grease. Spray the top and bottom of the ball joint.... The problem is solved for me. Mine squeaked with every turn and speed bump I hit driving slow or fast. It was loud and horrible sounding.
how is the upper control arm doing? I'm undecided between the moog and the mevotech brand.
I have used both of those brands in the past and have no complaints.
@@jingles373 I ended up going with the non greasable Moog upper and lower control arms. Mevotech sway bar bushings and links. Cleared up my squeaking that I was experiencing. Thanks for the video!
HOW DO WE REPLACE BOTTOM SUSPENSION PLATE BUSHING
why was there a gap on the insde of that ball joint?my passanger side looks like that but drivers side looks more flush
Mine did not he same thing. I wonder if it's meant to be that way...🤔
What if the opening on the knuckle is to small because the owner had wrong arm n he tightened it up n it practically closed the slot? I've tried to use a chisel n open it up n have gotten it bigger but the arm/ball joint won't go in, I even heated it up, I can't get the original back in either, im afraid if I keep hammering on it trying to split the gap more it could break, anyone have any advice? Thanks for any help.
If you're trying to open it up while it's still on the truck remove the steering knuckle and work on it on the work bench. If it breaks go to the junk yard and get another knuckle. It shouldn't cost very much.
It's the upper control arm.
I think you inadvertently showed us how to add positive camber. Tighten control arm bolts BEFORE lowering vehicle?...hmmm.
No cam bolts needed. (Only kidding)
I wish you knew what you were doing… You didn’t put the truck back on the ground and torque down the upper control arm as you were supposed to…!
Should have lowered it, preloading before tightening the control arm bolts. Big mistake.
esta mal hecho el trabajo, tenes que lubricar los bujes de la parrilla, porque si no despues chillan
Nah you lied about how to get the correct ride hight you didn't even mention it and that's the most important thing to know especially if your posting videos for others to see and then they go do this and end up having ah ride hight issue that is completely off because of misinformation