I'm a female and I loved this video. I'm 55 and this makes me want to learn this stuff and build my own home! Thanks guys!!! Keepem coming! Much love from Tenn.
Great video again! Y'all are lucky to only have a 12 inch frost line! Y'all do some great work and make great points! Especially things like testing the soil with your t handle probe. And digging with a machine. One thing I will add that we have been doing for a good 4-5 years now is we like to cut the bottom of our footings out a hair wider than the walls. We just take a sharp spade and cut a few inches all the way around at the very bottom of the footing. This not only gives you a slightly larger load bearing, but mainly takes care of uplift. Especially on more shallow frost footings. Uplift has become such a big deal, the dang house is bound to blow away before the deck ever moves. We bell shape every footing, pier, and/or column to satisfy uplift requirements. We recently purchased a bell auger to do the work for us, because we do alot of large piers and footings. But on a simple deck, it takes no time to knock out that detail at the bottom. Unless your footings need to be 5-6 ft deep. In that case just use those Bigfoot forms or pour your footing large first and then do your pier. Lol! As far as deck builds go, I always recommend people study their codes, and study the DCA 6. You'll find a lot of useful info no matter where you are, in the DCA 6. I hope this helps some folks out there. Be safe out there in the field y'all! Thanks for the content Perkins! God bless y'all! 👍
Good video. Realistically, if you're a builder you should get a 24" auger attachment for the skid steer, and use the Bigfoot 24" bell housing with your sono tube. 5 minutes to auger to just past depth, compact, throw in 6" crushed, dust-free stone, compact and drop in your tubes. 10 minutes and done with an excellent anti-heave, proven install.
Greetings from the Philippine islands, we are getting ready to plan for a mountain retreat here in central Luzon and these videos are really a great help. Thank you guys!
Great video. Wish this video had come out one year ago. I inherited a lot in central Phoenix and went well into the planning and permitting stages only to find out later that the soil would require 3 foot footings! With no choice, I did that, but had I known, I likely would have placed a very different structure on the lot. Anyway, first thing I would ever do is have a soil analysis done of any lot in the future. Good videos!
Love the tip about steel not being required in NC, but still going with 2 runs of #5. I have been looking for that standard, and thought I was missing something.
Great information You guys are lucky with a 12" frost line. Here in Ontario we have 4' frost line but in some parts we the code states we must go to 6' to ensure we below the frost line. As footings go most decks over 12'×12' they now want to see footings at either 28" wide or 32" wide . Thankfully they make post augers that are up to 36" wide which saves alot of hand digging
While looking for good videos to review for building a home in Texas, I noticed this group having great content. I like the explanations combined with visual examples. Also, they throw in a little comedy to make it interesting but informative. Thank you!
Interesting information. I live on the coast of Maryland where everything is sand. A lot of our stuff sits on wooden pilings with concrete ground beams on top.
Great video. Thanks for putting the effort forth with this. Every site Im on, its amazing how many potential clients turn into new clients when I pull my ICC book out - I always try to make sure I am in the know and this just reinforced my OCD.
I have seen these same things many many times in my business. When I built on Lake Michigan in my area we had to have steel pylons drove 75 plus foot into the gravel beds had to go almost 200' on one occasion thank God I was taught well our prices were always determined by engineering needs and actual costs of having them driven deep enough to pass inspections. Our minimum depths where I live is 36"-42" depending on ground we always went 42" plus and always put at least 4" of gravel before pouring any concrete just wouldn't ever take any chances plus French drains to prevent any standing water.
You forgot to mention the name of the soil probe was Jameson. What's worse ,is Jameson has no instructions on use. However, your overall info is very helpful.
Very interesting! In my town, any build that will have a foundation and require a permit will also ALWAYS require a soil test done by a geotechnical engineer and then an engineering plan stamped by a structural engineer. Those are both in the check-list of requirements to even get the permit.
Another great video, guys. How do you calculate the tributary area? I always forget. And it’s important to know for footings, deck framing members, etc. That would be a great video.
Tributary area can be a bit tricky. And it always depends on the type of build drop beam deck vs flush beam(header) deck. With overhang or not, with cantilever or not, wood species, soil capacity, and live and dead loads. Since I don't know your conditions, the best thing you can do is check out the DCA 6. The DCA 6 has a ton of great info for calculating your tributary area based on size, load, soil bearing capacity, footing type, special conditions, species of lumber, etc. And will help you determine spans, posts, beam details, and footings.... Also a great guide for general knowledge and staying up to date on do's and don'ts Hope this helps! 🍻
Far as I know, sketch out your plan on graph paper or use an editing program with the grid lines set up along 1' x 1' squares. Tribs will be either from one wall to 1/2 way to nearest support, or in a deck with cantilever, from edge of deck/cantilever, across first and in the middle between first and second pier. This is a simple vid ua-cam.com/video/g0otb1kzsXU/v-deo.html
The planning and permitting office in lake Elsinore is like 2 people and they don’t like anybody. I’ve asked for local code to build a single family home; basically I asked for the minimal criteria they would require for design intent of a home . They weren’t helpful at all. Would love to hear what your thoughts are obtaining local codes, or ensjring the local code book you have can be found. Also , any thoughts on how to get permits approved once you pass soil testing
I always keep a copy of the IRC in my truck so when the inspector comes out I can show him that I did do it by the newest codes. Most inspectors are not up to date on the codes and many have their own personal opinions of interpretation of the codes. Instead of debating with them, I just open the book and ask them to show me.
👍👍👍👍 WOW ! I clearly understood all taught in this video. 65 years in the USA / Georgia. About to build house in west Africa. And there is no such thing as building codes for diy in the bush. Somehow they got the footings part correct and piles. Many build 2 story They make cement block manually (one block at a time ) then plaster the blocks for all walls. No 2 x 4 wooden studs. When money is available we can adhere to strict codes. But when money is not available, not even loans, then humans have to rely on the best knowledge and resources they have. 🙏🙏🙏🤞 the USA do not have another great depression. Thanks for the very good information. A DIY can build 3000 Sq. Ft. ON 1 ACRE for $ 30,000. USD ( In the bush / rural if they DIY ...LOL dirt road pure country living .)
It looks like the code book only talks about peers if you're using a stem wall I've been trying to find a code for just a straightpeer foundation and I can't seem to find it thanks great video do you know how to find that for just a pure foundation without a stem wall
When you test the soil for its load bearing capability does it matter if you test it while it's wet or dry? It seems certain soils change more than others with moisture.
Interesting video, lots of information. And you really carry that Code Book around :D I loved watching your video! Subscribed! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Learned a lot! I am a Realtor in Houston, Texas.
Hey man ive been watching your channel freaking awesome stuff you have. I like the soil compaction rod you used. Like you siad flat on bottom is key but what i like to do is actually belly out the bottom a little centered. Thanls for your videos rock on
Hi guys, I love your vids, super clear explanations, I also appreciate your honesty regarding mistakes and the struggles of your profession and the trades you work in. Regarding any discussion of code matters, I think it would be useful to your viewers to let them know which Building Code you are referencing as there are State by State and some municipal variations.
Is the code book you are referring to available for citizens to view online? It appears that only footers of concrete are referred to in the code book. What about rubble footings comprised of crushed and compacted aggregate? Crushed aggregate does not respond to frost or freezing like solid concrete does. And why do folks continue to install steel into concrete when experience has proven that steel eventually oxidizes and degrades the concrete? The tool showcased may be fine for probing and to obtain some idea of soil compaction, but it does not produce any quantifiable data.
Do you guys set your deck posts in the ground? You should do a video on setting the posts 😉. Do you pour your footings and then just set the posts on the concrete and backfill with dirt or gravel, etc?
Nice vid. What u didnt mention, and u should, is that for any real long term rebar to last within your peer or footing is to use, epoxy coated rebar. Lasts way longer, and is cheap insurance.
Good stuff! Pretty sure one of our front porch footings was not properly tested for compaction prior to concrete. It has settled about 1” over the past 5 years since the house was built. Probably gonna dig it out this spring/summer down to hard pack and re-pour a new footing.
In the 2021 IRC, it calls for a footing to be, as an example, 12 x 6, minimum width and thickness. Does this mean the footing is square 12"x12" and depth should be 6"? Just want to confirm I got this correct. Thanks.
What is the code in that book for pier spacing on a single story house 2048sf I plan on building a 32x64 and was wondering what’s code on spacing them apart
İ need to lift one corner of the house then put some support underneath the footing. My question is, after lifting up the house, how am l supposed to fill the gap between footing and soil? Or it should be ok just the way it is? Can you guys gimme some ideas please thank you.
Soil probe.... test the compaction of the soil Hand digging the holes for the footings so you don’t end up with a big hole Make sure the bottom of the hole is level so the footing doesn’t slide under the soil Make sure you look at codes
I know western NC isn't technically super cold per the building code, but my one weekend at App State in December was the most brutal cold I've ever felt!
Hey Erik. I live in Raleigh North Carolina and I am wondering if you guys ever come up here because I would love to be an apprentice on your crew!? By the way I am only 15
Y’all make some good videos. I just bought a piece of land in Little Switzerland (Spruce Pine) area, so your tips hit very close to home for me. I’m curious about spacing between deck footers. I’ve always done 6’ between posts but with 6x6 posts, and 2x10 boards, it seems like overkill. What do y’all recommend? TIa
Love the video. I have a deck that was built(and demolished old one) in a single day. I doubt that was even inspected. In Illinois we doesn’t have a state code book but each “municipality” has their own codes. Trying to use my own towns code book is very confusing because there is no clear section and also no diagrams/charts. My deck has settled unevenly in places causing screws to snap and trex boards having to be replaced. Do you have a suggested solution to flatten/level my deck?
@@rolly5457 oh i see. A bandaid would be to temp. jack the deck up and pour on top of footings or lengthen the posts. By the sound of it though you need a better base. Bigger/deeper footings.
matt mag would it be possible to jack up the deck then just try to deepen the base and fill the hole with concrete with the post embedded in the concrete
@@rolly5457 in my opinion, no. The concrete needs retention as in side walls of dirt and i just cant see how you could do that. Another bandaid option would be to shim the posts some how. Support deck, cut connection, jack deck, fasten again (or shim depending on how post/beam is connected) That is only if the settling has stopped. If the settling is consistent year to year then I'm going to say you'll need new, better footings. Even if they're in a different spot than the original.
All of the states, cities, and counties have a different requirement. And municipalities also have different requirements. Homeowners associations even differ. Your best bet is to run over to your county inspectors office or planning and permits office and pick up all of the codes you need. In order to receive a permit You'll need an actual blueprint style plan for your build, drawn to scale, and it will need to be approved. Don't forget to have utilities marked. And in some places, you'll need a survey done to make sure you're not crossing the property line distance requirements, or any easements. This goes for anything considered to be a "permanent" structure. Even a concrete sidewalk. Or a small shed that cannot be easily moved. Just a suggestion.....We overbuild everything just a tad, it helps me sleep at night as the Owner. So I do recommend you really pay attention to the codes and one up that just a hair. If you build consistently better than your local requirements, you will eventually get to a point where pre inspections are unnecessary for your certificate of occupancy. Sometimes we have a final inspection on something like a deck build, but it's rare now with our relationships with inspectors. Things go so much faster and no downtime waiting for the inspector So you can pour footings. Type in your area/county/etc and building codes (R507 for residential decks) and you should be able to find your local adopted codes. We have towns outside the city limits here in different counties that are still running off of old code. 2002 irc at a home we're at now. Do not build to 2002 code! Lol! The best thing you can do IMHO is download the DCA 6 and build off of that. Read and memorize it. Print it off if you need a refresher. If you build off of DCA 6 you should have no issues. I hope this helps! Good luck to ya! 🍻
So true about having a great relationship with the inspectors . Was getting a new service put in 2 houses side by side . The inspector came and Ok'd the jobs before the jobs were done . Even the hydro boys were able to put in the new cables before the job was done . When a contractor has a reputation of doing better than code work the inspectors and the hydro boys know that so the job goes much faster for everyone . Having a good reputation just makes things go a lot faster .
@@henryrodgers3409 you got it 👍 It absolutely does. When you and your company strive to be the absolute best in the business, as opposed to how much money can we make off of this job or how fast can we knock it out, the rest follows suit. Quality, and reputation is everything in this business! Codes are getting tight, and people are getting more educated on efficiency and good building practices. Take care 👍🍻
What's the name of this "STICK"? I couldn't find it and it could be beneficial for you (with an Affiliate Account ) to point where it can be purchased. Thank you... wow impressive video.
I'm actually surprised your footings only need to be a foot deep. I know most of North Carolina is warm most of the time but I thought where you are in the mountains would have a different frost line. I would love that. Ours ia between 36" to 42".
So how could you put the probe completely in the ground in one spot, and say 5 feet over is your footing? How could ground change that quickly, unless it's an area that is hollowed out a bit to where it holds water?
Alls I want to know is what is your absolute bottom dollar for coffee and donuts? If I’m buying! 😂 You guys rock! If I ever need a builder, your in my top 3.
I test for compaction. It's crazy how many people's footings and foundation fail horribly and cost them days if not weeks of time fixing them. I tell all of them buy u a probe rod and at least u will have an idea if it's compacted or not
My experience, the IRC is often only governing the “minimum” requirements. Many Factors should be considered, and if you do it right, the design will exceed the requirements of IRC.
Only Contractor I've ever seen bring out the code book. GREAT JOB guys!!
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 you’ve never met good contractor then
I'm a female and I loved this video. I'm 55 and this makes me want to learn this stuff and build my own home! Thanks guys!!! Keepem coming! Much love from Tenn.
Great video again! Y'all are lucky to only have a 12 inch frost line!
Y'all do some great work and make great points! Especially things like testing the soil with your t handle probe. And digging with a machine.
One thing I will add that we have been doing for a good 4-5 years now is we like to cut the bottom of our footings out a hair wider than the walls. We just take a sharp spade and cut a few inches all the way around at the very bottom of the footing. This not only gives you a slightly larger load bearing, but mainly takes care of uplift. Especially on more shallow frost footings. Uplift has become such a big deal, the dang house is bound to blow away before the deck ever moves. We bell shape every footing, pier, and/or column to satisfy uplift requirements. We recently purchased a bell auger to do the work for us, because we do alot of large piers and footings. But on a simple deck, it takes no time to knock out that detail at the bottom. Unless your footings need to be 5-6 ft deep. In that case just use those Bigfoot forms or pour your footing large first and then do your pier. Lol!
As far as deck builds go, I always recommend people study their codes, and study the DCA 6.
You'll find a lot of useful info no matter where you are, in the DCA 6.
I hope this helps some folks out there. Be safe out there in the field y'all! Thanks for the content Perkins! God bless y'all! 👍
David Briot ua-cam.com/video/prygJuhvn9Q/v-deo.html does your bell end look like this?
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Good video. Realistically, if you're a builder you should get a 24" auger attachment for the skid steer, and use the Bigfoot 24" bell housing with your sono tube. 5 minutes to auger to just past depth, compact, throw in 6" crushed, dust-free stone, compact and drop in your tubes. 10 minutes and done with an excellent anti-heave, proven install.
I'm surprised this knowledge did not get more views. He gave a lot of first hand needed knowledge.... Keep going!!!!
Greetings from the Philippine islands, we are getting ready to plan for a mountain retreat here in central Luzon and these videos are really a great help. Thank you guys!
Great video. Wish this video had come out one year ago. I inherited a lot in central Phoenix and went well into the planning and permitting stages only to find out later that the soil would require 3 foot footings! With no choice, I did that, but had I known, I likely would have placed a very different structure on the lot. Anyway, first thing I would ever do is have a soil analysis done of any lot in the future. Good videos!
Love the tip about steel not being required in NC, but still going with 2 runs of #5. I have been looking for that standard, and thought I was missing something.
Great information
You guys are lucky with a 12" frost line.
Here in Ontario we have 4' frost line but in some parts we the code states we must go to 6' to ensure we below the frost line.
As footings go most decks over 12'×12' they now want to see footings at either 28" wide or 32" wide . Thankfully they make post augers that are up to 36" wide which saves alot of hand digging
While looking for good videos to review for building a home in Texas, I noticed this group having great content. I like the explanations combined with visual examples. Also, they throw in a little comedy to make it interesting but informative. Thank you!
I always learn something beneficial when I watch your channel even when your joking with each other. Never a dull moment.
Interesting information. I live on the coast of Maryland where everything is sand. A lot of our stuff sits on wooden pilings with concrete ground beams on top.
Great video. Thanks for putting the effort forth with this. Every site Im on, its amazing how many potential clients turn into new clients when I pull my ICC book out - I always try to make sure I am in the know and this just reinforced my OCD.
Thank you for all the detailed information you included in this video. Currently have a foundation footer project to complete now.
I have seen these same things many many times in my business.
When I built on Lake Michigan in my area we had to have steel pylons drove 75 plus foot into the gravel beds had to go almost 200' on one occasion thank God I was taught well our prices were always determined by engineering needs and actual costs of having them driven deep enough to pass inspections.
Our minimum depths where I live is 36"-42" depending on ground we always went 42" plus and always put at least 4" of gravel before pouring any concrete just wouldn't ever take any chances plus French drains to prevent any standing water.
Thanks for sharing this important info! Good luck with your job !
You guys are the most informative builders on You Tube. Awesome builders.
Fabulous mini-course on foundations!!!
You forgot to mention the name of the soil probe was Jameson. What's worse ,is Jameson has no instructions on use. However, your overall info is very helpful.
Very interesting! In my town, any build that will have a foundation and require a permit will also ALWAYS require a soil test done by a geotechnical engineer and then an engineering plan stamped by a structural engineer. Those are both in the check-list of requirements to even get the permit.
Another great video, guys. How do you calculate the tributary area? I always forget. And it’s important to know for footings, deck framing members, etc. That would be a great video.
Tributary area can be a bit tricky. And it always depends on the type of build drop beam deck vs flush beam(header) deck. With overhang or not, with cantilever or not, wood species, soil capacity, and live and dead loads.
Since I don't know your conditions, the best thing you can do is check out the DCA 6. The DCA 6 has a ton of great info for calculating your tributary area based on size, load, soil bearing capacity, footing type, special conditions, species of lumber, etc. And will help you determine spans, posts, beam details, and footings.... Also a great guide for general knowledge and staying up to date on do's and don'ts
Hope this helps! 🍻
Far as I know, sketch out your plan on graph paper or use an editing program with the grid lines set up along 1' x 1' squares. Tribs will be either from one wall to 1/2 way to nearest support, or in a deck with cantilever, from edge of deck/cantilever, across first and in the middle between first and second pier. This is a simple vid ua-cam.com/video/g0otb1kzsXU/v-deo.html
The planning and permitting office in lake Elsinore is like 2 people and they don’t like anybody. I’ve asked for local code to build a single family home; basically I asked for the minimal criteria they would require for design intent of a home . They weren’t helpful at all.
Would love to hear what your thoughts are obtaining local codes, or ensjring the local code book you have can be found.
Also , any thoughts on how to get permits approved once you pass soil testing
Great contents and information! Thanks Perkins Bros!
I always keep a copy of the IRC in my truck so when the inspector comes out I can show him that I did do it by the newest codes.
Most inspectors are not up to date on the codes and many have their own personal opinions of interpretation of the codes. Instead of debating with them, I just open the book and ask them to show me.
Hello guys love the videos I actually have a area with this problem on my new construction what soil engineer did y’all use
👍👍👍👍 WOW ! I clearly understood all taught in this video. 65 years in the USA / Georgia. About to build house in west Africa. And there is no such thing as building codes for diy in the bush. Somehow they got the footings part correct and piles. Many build 2 story They make cement block manually (one block at a time ) then plaster the blocks for all walls. No 2 x 4 wooden studs. When money is available we can adhere to strict codes. But when money is not available, not even loans, then humans have to rely on the best knowledge and resources they have. 🙏🙏🙏🤞 the USA do not have another great depression. Thanks for the very good information. A DIY can build 3000 Sq. Ft. ON 1 ACRE for $ 30,000. USD ( In the bush / rural if they DIY ...LOL dirt road pure country living .)
It looks like the code book only talks about peers if you're using a stem wall I've been trying to find a code for just a straightpeer foundation and I can't seem to find it thanks great video do you know how to find that for just a pure foundation without a stem wall
When you test the soil for its load bearing capability does it matter if you test it while it's wet or dry?
It seems certain soils change more than others with moisture.
Good Question. When it's slightly damp seems it gives a lot easier.
I subscribed. My geotechnical engineer supervisor will undoubtedly be pleased that you informed me. Thanks!
Interesting video, lots of information. And you really carry that Code Book around :D I loved watching your video! Subscribed! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Learned a lot! I am a Realtor in Houston, Texas.
Hey, did you ever use a ditch witch for your infrastructure cables and plumbing?
Really nice video, here in silicon valley I need to dig out geotechnicals
Hey man ive been watching your channel freaking awesome stuff you have. I like the soil compaction rod you used. Like you siad flat on bottom is key but what i like to do is actually belly out the bottom a little centered. Thanls for your videos rock on
Hi guys, I love your vids, super clear explanations, I also appreciate your honesty regarding mistakes and the struggles of your profession and the trades you work in. Regarding any discussion of code matters, I think it would be useful to your viewers to let them know which Building Code you are referencing as there are State by State and some municipal variations.
He said north Carolina
I was under the impression IRC is universal in the US.
Awesome! Thank you for taking the time to educate us!👍👌
Is the code book you are referring to available for citizens to view online? It appears that only footers of concrete are referred to in the code book.
What about rubble footings comprised of crushed and compacted aggregate? Crushed aggregate does not respond to frost or freezing like solid concrete does.
And why do folks continue to install steel into concrete when experience has proven that steel eventually oxidizes and degrades the concrete?
The tool showcased may be fine for probing and to obtain some idea of soil compaction, but it does not produce any quantifiable data.
Good info. I am in Florida. Do you make a form or use ground as form? Thx
Do you guys set your deck posts in the ground? You should do a video on setting the posts 😉. Do you pour your footings and then just set the posts on the concrete and backfill with dirt or gravel, etc?
Whats with the emoji. Why u flirting????? ;)
Does your code book reference the BOCA code, are they interchangeable?
Nice vid. What u didnt mention, and u should, is that for any real long term rebar to last within your peer or footing is to use, epoxy coated rebar. Lasts way longer, and is cheap insurance.
great info and an easy test. Can you cover more code? How and where you can drill into top plates and wall studs?
Good Morning. Sure appreciate your efforts .
Good stuff! Pretty sure one of our front porch footings was not properly tested for compaction prior to concrete. It has settled about 1” over the past 5 years since the house was built. Probably gonna dig it out this spring/summer down to hard pack and re-pour a new footing.
You might be able to get away with a jack and shimming it. If it continues to sink, then replace it.
Thanks very helpful information
Learning something new with every one of your uploads. Awesome!
In the 2021 IRC, it calls for a footing to be, as an example, 12 x 6, minimum width and thickness. Does this mean the footing is square 12"x12" and depth should be 6"? Just want to confirm I got this correct. Thanks.
What is the code in that book for pier spacing on a single story house 2048sf I plan on building a 32x64 and was wondering what’s code on spacing them apart
Love your channel! The house in this video is on PnB. Are you leaving the crawl space open? If so what are you doing for insulation and vapor barrier?
Hi there I like watching your content it is very helpful in a lot of ways would like to know where I could get a book like that
Great video, I'm a newbie to all of this and I'm wondering if it makes a difference if you test the soil when wet or dry?
İ need to lift one corner of the house then put some support underneath the footing. My question is, after lifting up the house, how am l supposed to fill the gap between footing and soil? Or it should be ok just the way it is? Can you guys gimme some ideas please thank you.
thanks, i hope you can make a video about building footings on sloping land
Great video, thanks!
Soil probe.... test the compaction of the soil
Hand digging the holes for the footings so you don’t end up with a big hole
Make sure the bottom of the hole is level so the footing doesn’t slide under the soil
Make sure you look at codes
Very good video guys.
Lots of good info here. 👍👍
The main thing I learned from this video is that having a printed code book makes you look damn impressive.
I can't seem to find the fiberglass probe you have. Would you have the name and model number of the soil probe?
You have a good videos thanks.
I'm a new follower.
How do you determine the area for piers and footing size?
I know western NC isn't technically super cold per the building code, but my one weekend at App State in December was the most brutal cold I've ever felt!
Hey Erik. I live in Raleigh North Carolina and I am wondering if you guys ever come up here because I would love to be an apprentice on your crew!?
By the way I am only 15
were did you get that book ?
Very informative. TX for making this video.
Y’all make some good videos. I just bought a piece of land in Little Switzerland (Spruce Pine) area, so your tips hit very close to home for me. I’m curious about spacing between deck footers. I’ve always done 6’ between posts but with 6x6 posts, and 2x10 boards, it seems like overkill. What do y’all recommend?
TIa
6x6 posts at 6' on center is a good way to go. No to cheap (bouncy), and not way overbuilt ($$).
Love the video. I have a deck that was built(and demolished old one) in a single day. I doubt that was even inspected. In Illinois we doesn’t have a state code book but each “municipality” has their own codes. Trying to use my own towns code book is very confusing because there is no clear section and also no diagrams/charts. My deck has settled unevenly in places causing screws to snap and trex boards having to be replaced. Do you have a suggested solution to flatten/level my deck?
Call the contractor who "built" the deck!
matt mag I wish I could. This was probably done 10-12 years. I am not sure if I still have the guys number.
@@rolly5457 oh i see. A bandaid would be to temp. jack the deck up and pour on top of footings or lengthen the posts. By the sound of it though you need a better base. Bigger/deeper footings.
matt mag would it be possible to jack up the deck then just try to deepen the base and fill the hole with concrete with the post embedded in the concrete
@@rolly5457 in my opinion, no. The concrete needs retention as in side walls of dirt and i just cant see how you could do that. Another bandaid option would be to shim the posts some how. Support deck, cut connection, jack deck, fasten again (or shim depending on how post/beam is connected) That is only if the settling has stopped. If the settling is consistent year to year then I'm going to say you'll need new, better footings. Even if they're in a different spot than the original.
I dig the new video style or at least it feels new. Good info fast thanks guys.
How do we get a copy of the CA version of this book?
Might be a dumb question but would that code book be okay to us in Tennessee or would it be to different
All of the states, cities, and counties have a different requirement. And municipalities also have different requirements. Homeowners associations even differ. Your best bet is to run over to your county inspectors office or planning and permits office and pick up all of the codes you need. In order to receive a permit You'll need an actual blueprint style plan for your build, drawn to scale, and it will need to be approved. Don't forget to have utilities marked. And in some places, you'll need a survey done to make sure you're not crossing the property line distance requirements, or any easements. This goes for anything considered to be a "permanent" structure. Even a concrete sidewalk. Or a small shed that cannot be easily moved.
Just a suggestion.....We overbuild everything just a tad, it helps me sleep at night as the Owner. So I do recommend you really pay attention to the codes and one up that just a hair. If you build consistently better than your local requirements, you will eventually get to a point where pre inspections are unnecessary for your certificate of occupancy. Sometimes we have a final inspection on something like a deck build, but it's rare now with our relationships with inspectors. Things go so much faster and no downtime waiting for the inspector So you can pour footings.
Type in your area/county/etc and building codes (R507 for residential decks) and you should be able to find your local adopted codes.
We have towns outside the city limits here in different counties that are still running off of old code. 2002 irc at a home we're at now. Do not build to 2002 code! Lol!
The best thing you can do IMHO is download the DCA 6 and build off of that. Read and memorize it. Print it off if you need a refresher. If you build off of DCA 6 you should have no issues.
I hope this helps! Good luck to ya! 🍻
So true about having a great relationship with the inspectors . Was getting a new service put in 2 houses side by side . The inspector came and Ok'd the jobs before the jobs were done . Even the hydro boys were able to put in the new cables before the job was done . When a contractor has a reputation of doing better than code work the inspectors and the hydro boys know that so the job goes much faster for everyone . Having a good reputation just makes things go a lot faster .
@@henryrodgers3409 you got it 👍
It absolutely does. When you and your company strive to be the absolute best in the business, as opposed to how much money can we make off of this job or how fast can we knock it out, the rest follows suit.
Quality, and reputation is everything in this business!
Codes are getting tight, and people are getting more educated on efficiency and good building practices.
Take care 👍🍻
Do you compact the soil under the footing?
great video...thanks!
Thank you sir for the information great videos
Hello where I can get the residencial book please
Where can I buy this code book?
What's the name of this "STICK"? I couldn't find it and it could be beneficial for you (with an Affiliate Account ) to point where it can be purchased.
Thank you... wow impressive video.
Great video. Learning even more from you.
Here in North Texas we have to have those expensive soil test!! Before your permit is approved!!
And the dirt there is hard as a rock anyways. Yet in southern NC it's all sand.
Over 2 years ago already .... Tuesday December 21, 2021. 113,028 views and 358k subs. Great things happening.
Is 2018 the most recent version of the NC Building Code book?
Great video. Do you guys do work in the Charlotte area
What is the name of the t-handle probe?
I can't find it at 'big box ' stores, or I'm looking for the wrong item.
Great video
How would you flatten the bottom of a footing that needs to be 7’ below ground?..
I'm actually surprised your footings only need to be a foot deep. I know most of North Carolina is warm most of the time but I thought where you are in the mountains would have a different frost line. I would love that. Ours ia between 36" to 42".
How about doing the same vid on costal sand.
So how could you put the probe completely in the ground in one spot, and say 5 feet over is your footing? How could ground change that quickly, unless it's an area that is hollowed out a bit to where it holds water?
Alls I want to know is what is your absolute bottom dollar for coffee and donuts? If I’m buying! 😂 You guys rock! If I ever need a builder, your in my top 3.
How to modify the existing soil to make soil more clay tough?
Where do you find this code book?
Ive always "bell bottomed" the post footing. Bigger load bearing area on bottom. Also locks it in for uplift.
No steel in strip footings?? Crazy.!
I test for compaction. It's crazy how many people's footings and foundation fail horribly and cost them days if not weeks of time fixing them. I tell all of them buy u a probe rod and at least u will have an idea if it's compacted or not
Good stuff!
My experience, the IRC is often only governing the “minimum” requirements. Many Factors should be considered, and if you do it right, the design will exceed the requirements of IRC.
Thanks for the video.!
What if it rains a day before a gets soft ?
What concrete strength?
How thick is your footer ? 8 “? X24”
Where can I find a nc code book? And how often do code books change?
you can order it online. the codes changes almost every 5 years
In Northern California we dream of building like this..
In Northern California we dream of building. Period.
Nice Ep. Thanks man
There is decks?