As a Eastern Pennsylvanian myself. I say "Let's not make a big deal about it" Great video thanks. Just bought a home here in Chester County. learning a lot from your videos. Thank you.
I disassembled and moved my barn from the property I grew up on to where I live now, about 10 miles away. Great experience, took a whole summer. It was built in the 1870s on a dry stone foundation, no footers and no mortar at all between the stones. Unfortunately we didn’t take the foundation when we moved it, but that’s another story. What’s noteworthy though, is the building never shifted, it was level and square when we took it down and when we put the beams back together on the new, modern block foundation, it was still square and level. My partner in the project, a contractor who specialized in renovation work, said the barn was more square and level than any new house he’d seen. They don’t build em like they used to, Mike, so I’m glad to see you doing this preservation work. I spend time in my barn every single day, it’s my workshop, studio, and also a great place to goof off or take a nap. Hopefully it’ll stand for another hundred or more years. Thanks for sharing your experience!
I've been doing tile and masonry for over 20 years now, and Mike is my go to guy. I find him to be a real inspiration. Not just for the masonry tips, but his attitude, and approach. Plus, he's a good musician!
Thank you so much for this. I have a 130 year old house where I am having to do stone foundation tuck pointing. I find you very hands on educational and with my own kids I can shar your knowledge. I like the old ways of building. Being a carpenter for 31 years I find the older buildings more fascinating. As well as the old finishing construction. Looking forward to your other videos.
Thanks Mike , good job explaining things. I’m teaching my 16 old son to follow in he’s old mans steps to become a Stonemason. We’re going to watching your videos because I work the same way you do, but he’ll listen to you because your not he’s father. So thank you for taking pride in explaining your craft so well. Ken , Stonemason from Wisconsin
Perfect timing - a friend and I are going to do this same type repointing to a barn, house foundation, and several free standing walls in Minisink Hills. We’re about an hour from your area, Mike, and the same holds true regarding the weather - freeze/thaw every year. This is exactly the tutorial we needed. Thanks, Mike!
Yeah we use lime mortar here in Spain too. Almost all old houses are stone, with "double" external walls, 30cm of stone, a cavity usually filled with earth, straw and small stones, then another 30cm of stone, then lime mortared in and outside. Got a good climate for it here. I have to repoint an entire external wall soon. I've learned a lot from you o this and many of your other videos. Thanks again, Mike! Salut, from Spain!
I love all your videos Mike but this one was truly outstanding. Your respect for the old craftsmanship and natural materials is inspiring. I have many older stone retaining walls on my property in New Hampshire and I’ve learned a lot about maintaining them from your videos. We are also blessed with several old New England stone walls that were built by early settlers who cleared these dense forests for farming. Those walls are a great natural link to the past and its very cool to imagine the rugged settlers who occupied the same piece of God’s land my family and I do now.
Thank you for this! Why not use this method when you do foundations? Your other videos have you mixing sand and portland and a touch of type S? Currently repointing my old fieldstone foundation, some say only type S others say lime, others still concrete. Basically can you expand on why type S at 10:44 in the video for that? Thanks for the videos!
Hi my Stuff, " I got a video out " lime, mortar or portland" what should I use? ITS my best effort to explain it, but every situation is diffrent so I show what I used in each video, thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck Awesome, thank you for your time, I have seen it and think I will be following your methodology of using type S + Sand, very challenging to find which application best suits me but thank you so much for the videos and responses
Hi Mike, love your old school videos. I was wondering, have you yourself ever tried lime mortar in Pensilvania. I think it is strange that it falls apart. If Lime gets wet it dries much faster, while cement dries much slower and during the frost the wet cement should fall apart. Also cement gets much harder and cracks and those cracks suck in water which again is not good during frost. I have read a bit about lime mortar and apparently it easy to learn, but hard to master. The carbonation takes a while and during that time the lime should not get to wet or to dry. Some plasterers hang wet cloths in front of their lime plaster. A good lime plaster job takes one day plastering and over a week taking care of the curing process. The reward is a very flexible mortar that dries very fast. But well I guess people want a quick fix these days. Thank you for creating this UA-cam channel and I love your easy going attitude.
Hi , I our area nobody uses it, but go south where its 10 degrees warmer it is used lots, but even then I see the masons mixing Portland into it, I am beginning another video on this thanks Mike
Midwest tuckpointer. Like the sand gravel tip will use it. Have used old sandblast sand with success on a 100+ year old building. Did port & lime mix still looks good 15yrs later. Old days they'd mix horse hair in it or barber sweeping in it. I'm only on my 40th year in masonry.
Hi Mike thank you for all your great videos a little over a year ago I purchase a Stonehouse it’s a group of stone houses I think every town has one these houses were built late 1940s into the 1950s. This group of homes was built and purchased by GIs with the G.I. Bill their simple homes very unique and very beautiful. The house that I have purchase is a total renovation to start with. We have gutted the inside we have found that they poured the foundation framed up the exterior walls, and from the outside they put headboard on then they used Fieldstone after the previous owner, had let the roof leak. The hemp board has disintegrated so I get to see the backside. We are a boat halfway done with re-pointing. The gutters have long disappeared. We are installing new ones I have noticed even after repointing that there is seepage on the interior outside walls only the areas where the water comes off the roof and finds its way down the side I can’t apply sealer at this point because the repointing is still too damp, is there anything I can do from the inside other than put maybe dimple board, Grace, or some other product to stop any moisture from seeping through? And one last question when is the latest I can continue to re-point temperature wise if it drops below 32 at night is that the tipping point or if during the day gets in the 50s and then drops a little below freezing at night. I assume that the stone will not freeze in that short of a timeframe as long as it’s not below 20° at night everything that I have learned from watching your videos pretty cool! My daughter is right here helping me she loves re-pointing. Look forward to your answer. Thank you, Mike.
Hi, the overhang and gutters is what should keep the water from the building, my rule of thumb is if I can keep it from freezing 3 days I never had a problem, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck yes, gutters are the next thing on my list? I was trying to get it re-pointed prior to the cold weather. The overhangs on all of these houses are very minimal, which makes it incredibly hard.
Thank you for your straightforward videos, you make it look easy. I've learned something new from every one of your videos which has helped me immensely as I recently purchased a 110 year old home with a field stone basement. I'm a millwright by trade but with what I've learned from you I've managed a few repairs that might not look pretty but I'm sure they will outlast me, thank you!
Another great video that you take the time to explain things but also let the viewer know it can be done with a little patience and pride in your work. I have made some simple repairs to the greenhouse walkways and warehouse that would have cost me thousands with a contractor thanks to some very useful tips from your videos. Does my heart good to see the old Chevy still doing work, too. Thank you Mike!
Hi Zick, whatever you feel necessary, I always make sure the land is pitched away from the building and you have rain gutters that send the water away also, thanks mike
Is there a tactic to the size of rock used based on where it is in the wall? Like the largest rocks get used at the bottom and then they get smaller as you go up?
After watching this I learned enough to tackle a repair job on a stone barn foundation of about the same vintage. I used type s but did not add any extra sand hope that was ok. I love watching and learning what you have to share.
Good comment about the steel reinforcing. I've been doing some work on my 100 year old block foundation (tying corners together that have cracked apart from each other) and I'm using fiberglass rebar as pins after drilling through (no steel) since they sell that at Lowes here. Grouting with cementall. Anywhere I need some tie wire, I'm using bendable stainless. And all this because I'm the homeowner and I have the facility to take my time and experiment.
I have always loved stone work. I am just an amateur but I have built a chimney and fireplace at my cabin in the NC mountains. It is built on piers but I am currently filling in the foundation with stone. I really enjoy your videos. I have learned a lot from you and I greatly appreciate the tips and being able to benefit from your experience. I also appreciate your humility and your faith. We have never met and probably never will but I consider you a good friend. I hope that’s ok.
Hi Mike! I just discovered your channel and I love it. I live in a 1920s house with a fieldstone foundation, and there's a lot of crumbling mortar--probably the lime mix that you show in some of your videos. I'd like to restore/repoint the foundation myself, if I can. In your basement restoration videos, you coat and seal all the stones with cement, but I would like the stones to show in the interior of the basement; I think they add character. Can I use the technique you use here with the barn, and just mortar around the stones? Will it be less effective for keeping out moisture? Thanks!
Hi MC, I got a video out called "early American stone work" Mike haduck or any of my stone veneer installation video might give some good tips, thanks Mike
Hi Mike. Thank you so much for your videos and sharing your knowledge with us. I am repointing a rock wall with fairly big joints, but there are also some real thin areas that need to be repointed. I had planned on using the Type S commercial grade mortar to fill the joints. After watching this video, I wanted to ask if I should add the cement sand or the finer sand to my S mortar? I want a real smooth surface when I'm done and I live in southern New Mexico, so we get very little snow and low levels of rain. Thanks for any guidance you can provide.
Hi Brent, I think if you ask ten masons you would get 10 different answers, where I live that is what I show what I use in each video, I hope it helps, Mike
I have an old barn on which i intend to shore up the foundation using your technique. I was wondering, as the sill needs to be replaced due to rot, how you suggest i level it before replacing the sill. Would I just smooth off the top using this same type of mortar mixture and then lay on some pressure treaated and then add a 6x6 sill beam or do you suggest another mixture to level it off? Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. Thanks. Your videos are awesome...
Mike, thanks for the education! I have a faux stone veneer that could use some additional mortar in the joints, which is also more of the look we want. Is this same process applicable to veneer stone? Maybe a German shmear result?
Hi Mike, I wrote to you quite a while ago asking how to match cement for a wall that my mom drove into, its Bay Port Stone and the mortar is very light colored, not gray and not brown, the mason used something that was very dark gray and looked awful everyone that drove by could see the patch, you said to make a paint out of ??? My husband knows, anyway Jeff finally did it after I hounded him quite a bit and it looks beautiful! I used to mumble about the darn patch not matching well now it does, Jeff said he put it off because he thought it would be hard and worried that he would make it worse, but once he got started he couldn’t believe how easy and fast it went, he is very happy how well it turned out and so am I, thank you for the videos that you make, the best part is he’s not avoiding me anymore 🤣 Maybe I’ll send a before and after picture.
so you don't just use type N or type S mortar by itself? I have to repoint the outside of my stack stone basement up here in upsate ny, just over the border of PA. Should I use type N with sand mix?
Hi Richard, I did a video called, what cement should I use part 2, I explain it best there. S mortar does have Portland in it, is a up and down wall, thanks Mike
Hey Mike, I have another question, I went to the Mason yard. I wanted your opinion they said they sell a cold weather additive I put in the mortar. They told me it basically forces it to cure a quicker and forces the moisture out of the mortar. They told me it did not change the color of the mortar. I just want to finish up because cold weather is here your opinion on the cold weather additive?
I need to have one of My basements repointed. I got RockStone just like that. 12:03 - You say the Concrete Block is a 30-50 year job. Is it due to it being a concrete block and not cinder-block? Thanks for the video.
I’m pretty sure that building has had dozens of repairs through out the years just to keep it standing this day. Without repairs it would’ve been a mountain of rubble. Lime is good but the structure wouldn’t be here without repairs
Around these parts the basements were made out of slag stone with lime mortar that falls apart, I haven't seen one yet to point up, I always seem to have to plaster over everything, but if I find a stone cellar that is like that I will be sure to film it, thanks mike
Hey Mike, when building early American style fireplaces in the center of the house with yard/farm stone, is there a trick to keep the stone from cracking and breaking? I find that my local stone shatters when used to build a fire pit(not cemented)
Hi, the biggest problem with outside fireplaces is they build a huge fire very fast and it cracks them, a fire has to be built slow and gradually, I never seen one that wasn't cracked, no matter what you use, if you can build one without the outside joints showing it will not show the cracks, my opinion, mike
Hi Mike can I please send you a video or picture to show you the mess I did trying to follow your video and if I don't do something to fix it before my husband gets home he's gonna kill me. please respond Mike I just need some advice and a little guidance please please please
Thanks Mike for sharing your knowledge. What's the reasoning behind the use of lime as mortar? I thought cement was available as early as the Roman period.
Lime is the binder or glue. Cement was not around in Roman times and is not suitable for stone EVER. Cement will destroy stone over time. You need to look at various limes.
Hey Mike, I'm going to be patching and redoing sections of a sea wall (fresh water) next week. It's been built out of field stone, with big joints. I've been thinking a lot about my mortar mix. It's a big area, so I'm doing it from raw ingredients. I was thinking to use concrete sand, portland and just a bit of lime. Kinda like a M type mortar 3/1/12 Does that sound about right to you? For reference, I'm in Montreal. It gets cold here. I'd be heading to Pennsylvania to warm up. Thanks brother
Absolutely no footings under my shed Mike built from stone never had an issue with it .moves around a bit though sometimes the bolts on the door don't line up . Dave from Wales 🏴
Great video Mike! Q for you. Need to repoint part of the block foundation on my 40 y.o. house in WNY. Can I just use Type S, or would it benefit me to make up a mix like you did with either Sharps or masonry cement?
The Stonehouse I’m referring to is in Saco Maine. If you would like to come up and do a UA-cam episode on these houses, we have a spare room and you’re more than welcome.
@@MikeHaduck I’ll upload a short UA-cam video and I’ll leave it unlisted so you can take a look. And Florida sounds fantastic I’m 58 and I told my wife I want to retire at 62 but we’ll see.
Mike this one of your best videos, excellent advice and very well explained. One question, what's the difference between Type S Mortar and Type S Masonary Cement? I've seen both bags and can't find a good explaination of the difference. Is it just the amount of portland/lime in each is higher or lower? Thanks!
Hey, Mike! Found you today. New subscriber. Going to take on pointing an old outbuilding on my property and this video was exactly the motivation I needed to prove to myself that I could do it. Can you get the different types of sand at the big box stores too?
So the barn was built in 1888 that's 132 years old and it is still in nice shape, but you said they didn't use the correct mortar because what they used was all that they had. Seems pretty good to me to last that long. I think you're saying that if they had used one part S mortar to two parts sharp sand that the barn would not need pointing now. I'm thinking S mortar for pointing giving another 132 years would be good enough for me. Just pulling your leg Mike, but really, how much better do you want it. JIM
I have post notifications on and I’m usually checking my subscription feed and I don’t see your post in my feed nor to I get your notifications. A LOT of your subscribers don’t even know you are posting videos. they should really fix UA-cam already it’s 2020
Hello Mike, your techniques are interesting. I have a question. Why are you using cement mortar? don't you think that We should use lime mortar? Mortar supposed to be a sacrificial element in any kind of wall. When a mortar becomes stronger than a stone, a mortar hurts a stone severely over a period of time.
Hi Ajay, I am working with granite, cement is softer than the stone,lime mortar does not hold up in my area, I show what I use in all my videos, i also have videos called " what cement should I use,? " I hope it helps, mike
I'm Zechariah I own Rottweiler Remodel &Repair and I appreciate this video your the real deal this is as informative as it gets great job!!!
Thanks Zech, Mike
As a Eastern Pennsylvanian myself. I say "Let's not make a big deal about it" Great video thanks. Just bought a home here in Chester County. learning a lot from your videos. Thank you.
Thanks Rufio,, Mike
I disassembled and moved my barn from the property I grew up on to where I live now, about 10 miles away. Great experience, took a whole summer. It was built in the 1870s on a dry stone foundation, no footers and no mortar at all between the stones. Unfortunately we didn’t take the foundation when we moved it, but that’s another story. What’s noteworthy though, is the building never shifted, it was level and square when we took it down and when we put the beams back together on the new, modern block foundation, it was still square and level. My partner in the project, a contractor who specialized in renovation work, said the barn was more square and level than any new house he’d seen. They don’t build em like they used to, Mike, so I’m glad to see you doing this preservation work. I spend time in my barn every single day, it’s my workshop, studio, and also a great place to goof off or take a nap. Hopefully it’ll stand for another hundred or more years. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Thanks Bill, I am glad to hear that story also, keep it up, mike
I've been doing tile and masonry for over 20 years now, and Mike is my go to guy. I find him to be a real inspiration. Not just for the masonry tips, but his attitude, and approach. Plus, he's a good musician!
Thanks jim, I appreciate the kind words, mike
Mike Had a Duck Masonry, is the very best channel to learn masonry .👍😎👍
Thanks Minimo, mike
Thank you so much for this. I have a 130 year old house where I am having to do stone foundation tuck pointing. I find you very hands on educational and with my own kids I can shar your knowledge. I like the old ways of building. Being a carpenter for 31 years I find the older buildings more fascinating. As well as the old finishing construction. Looking forward to your other videos.
Thanks Randy, Mike
Just like that ....ain't no big deal ...lol...Hi Mike !!!
Thanks Mike , good job explaining things. I’m teaching my 16 old son to follow in he’s old mans steps to become a Stonemason. We’re going to watching your videos because I work the same way you do, but he’ll listen to you because your not he’s father. So thank you for taking pride in explaining your craft so well. Ken ,
Stonemason from Wisconsin
Thanks Ken, I appreciate hearing that from a professional, Mike
New School Mike with the S Mortar not using Lime!! Thanks for the video! We are Rehabbing our barn now!!
Keep the videos coming!!
Hey Mike I can't stop watching your videos you are a real cool guy. That truly appreciates his trade.
Thanks Gregory, mike
Thanks again for all your knowledge. You are the masonry man!
Thanks Dave, Mike
Always learning something new from you......."In Mike Haduck we trust", "an't no big deal"...........thanks Mike !
Thanks Mark, mike
Perfect timing - a friend and I are going to do this same type repointing to a barn, house foundation, and several free standing walls in Minisink Hills. We’re about an hour from your area, Mike, and the same holds true regarding the weather - freeze/thaw every year. This is exactly the tutorial we needed. Thanks, Mike!
Thanks Bill, Mike
I needed to know how to do this in order to repoint my Son's stone foundation, which I am sure was pointed with lime. Thanks Mike.
Hi Wsyne, lots of controversy about that but I never had a problem , thanks Mike
Yeah we use lime mortar here in Spain too. Almost all old houses are stone, with "double" external walls, 30cm of stone, a cavity usually filled with earth, straw and small stones, then another 30cm of stone, then lime mortared in and outside. Got a good climate for it here. I have to repoint an entire external wall soon. I've learned a lot from you o this and many of your other videos. Thanks again, Mike! Salut, from Spain!
Thanks, I am sure it will look great, thanks Mike
I love all your videos Mike but this one was truly outstanding. Your respect for the old craftsmanship and natural materials is inspiring. I have many older stone retaining walls on my property in New Hampshire and I’ve learned a lot about maintaining them from your videos. We are also blessed with several old New England stone walls that were built by early settlers who cleared these dense forests for farming. Those walls are a great natural link to the past and its very cool to imagine the rugged settlers who occupied the same piece of God’s land my family and I do now.
Thanks, that was a different period in time for sure, mike
another great video! thank you! great info. "Not a big deal." Good stuff
Thanks Sal, Mike
Thank you for this! Why not use this method when you do foundations? Your other videos have you mixing sand and portland and a touch of type S? Currently repointing my old fieldstone foundation, some say only type S others say lime, others still concrete. Basically can you expand on why type S at 10:44 in the video for that? Thanks for the videos!
Hi my Stuff, " I got a video out " lime, mortar or portland" what should I use? ITS my best effort to explain it, but every situation is diffrent so I show what I used in each video, thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck Awesome, thank you for your time, I have seen it and think I will be following your methodology of using type S + Sand, very challenging to find which application best suits me but thank you so much for the videos and responses
Hi Mike, love your old school videos. I was wondering, have you yourself ever tried lime mortar in Pensilvania. I think it is strange that it falls apart. If Lime gets wet it dries much faster, while cement dries much slower and during the frost the wet cement should fall apart. Also cement gets much harder and cracks and those cracks suck in water which again is not good during frost.
I have read a bit about lime mortar and apparently it easy to learn, but hard to master. The carbonation takes a while and during that time the lime should not get to wet or to dry. Some plasterers hang wet cloths in front of their lime plaster. A good lime plaster job takes one day plastering and over a week taking care of the curing process.
The reward is a very flexible mortar that dries very fast. But well I guess people want a quick fix these days.
Thank you for creating this UA-cam channel and I love your easy going attitude.
Hi , I our area nobody uses it, but go south where its 10 degrees warmer it is used lots, but even then I see the masons mixing Portland into it, I am beginning another video on this thanks Mike
Midwest tuckpointer. Like the sand gravel tip will use it. Have used old sandblast sand with success on a 100+ year old building. Did port & lime mix still looks good 15yrs later. Old days they'd mix horse hair in it or barber sweeping in it. I'm only on my 40th year in masonry.
Thanks Kevin, I heard about the horsehair, thanks Mike
Love the old school vids.
Thanks Rocco, Mike
Great video sir. I will watch and comment more. You do a great job. I enjoy learning from you.
Thank you, mike
Hi Mike thank you for all your great videos a little over a year ago I purchase a Stonehouse it’s a group of stone houses I think every town has one these houses were built late 1940s into the 1950s. This group of homes was built and purchased by GIs with the G.I. Bill their simple homes very unique and very beautiful. The house that I have purchase is a total renovation to start with. We have gutted the inside we have found that they poured the foundation framed up the exterior walls, and from the outside they put headboard on then they used Fieldstone after the previous owner, had let the roof leak. The hemp board has disintegrated so I get to see the backside. We are a boat halfway done with re-pointing. The gutters have long disappeared. We are installing new ones I have noticed even after repointing that there is seepage on the interior outside walls only the areas where the water comes off the roof and finds its way down the side I can’t apply sealer at this point because the repointing is still too damp, is there anything I can do from the inside other than put maybe dimple board, Grace, or some other product to stop any moisture from seeping through? And one last question when is the latest I can continue to re-point temperature wise if it drops below 32 at night is that the tipping point or if during the day gets in the 50s and then drops a little below freezing at night. I assume that the stone will not freeze in that short of a timeframe as long as it’s not below 20° at night everything that I have learned from watching your videos pretty cool! My daughter is right here helping me she loves re-pointing. Look forward to your answer. Thank you, Mike.
Hi, the overhang and gutters is what should keep the water from the building, my rule of thumb is if I can keep it from freezing 3 days I never had a problem, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck yes, gutters are the next thing on my list? I was trying to get it re-pointed prior to the cold weather. The overhangs on all of these houses are very minimal, which makes it incredibly hard.
Thankful for this. Thanks Mike.
Thanks mike,,, mike
This is one of my favorites you have done this year! Really nice to see how things used to be made.
Thanks Jim, mike
that's interesting. I love the old buildings with stone foundations and all that.
Thanks Sue, mike
Thank you for your straightforward videos, you make it look easy. I've learned something new from every one of your videos which has helped me immensely as I recently purchased a 110 year old home with a field stone basement. I'm a millwright by trade but with what I've learned from you I've managed a few repairs that might not look pretty but I'm sure they will outlast me, thank you!
Thanks Josh, mike
Another great video that you take the time to explain things but also let the viewer know it can be done with a little patience and pride in your work. I have made some simple repairs to the greenhouse walkways and warehouse that would have cost me thousands with a contractor thanks to some very useful tips from your videos. Does my heart good to see the old Chevy still doing work, too. Thank you Mike!
Thanks GMguy, mike
Kinda therapeutic to listen your talk as you work on the task...
Ikr? Love it.
Thank you Mike 🍀🍀🍀
Thanks Eman, mike
Another job well done Mike.
Thanks Lou, Mike
and im the guy who has to go around fixin everyones who said different
hahah
That made me laugh out loud because I know he’s not exaggerating.
Thanks, mike
Thanks, Mike
Excellent video Mike, thanks for passing on your knowledge and observations. Stay safe and take care.
Thanks Mark, same to you, Mike
That was great information thank you for sharing. Do you also have information on if the wall is starting to lean and how to level it back up?
Hi jwa,, I got some moving techniques on my retaining wall videos, thanks. Mike
You sir, are a treasure!!!
Thanks,I appreciate the kind words, Mike
Some more outstanding work by you! What an honor it is to work on those old old early American foundations!! You keep on rocking man!! 👍👍👍😎🇨🇱
Thanks Rico, mike
Hey Mike! Love the videos! If I'm doing stone repair on the outside of my foundation how far should I dig down below grade to Point?
Hi Zick, whatever you feel necessary, I always make sure the land is pitched away from the building and you have rain gutters that send the water away also, thanks mike
Another great video. Thanks, Mike!
Thanks Nicholas, mike
Another masterful video , Mike. Great job
Thanks Jimmy, mike
Your info is always great. Thanks.
Thanks, mike
Is there a tactic to the size of rock used based on where it is in the wall? Like the largest rocks get used at the bottom and then they get smaller as you go up?
Hi Beach, that's usually the procedure in the old stone walls, if you ever visited the pyramids it's the same way, thanks Mike
After watching this I learned enough to tackle a repair job on a stone barn foundation of about the same vintage. I used type s but did not add any extra sand hope that was ok. I love watching and learning what you have to share.
Thanks jimmel, mike
Good comment about the steel reinforcing. I've been doing some work on my 100 year old block foundation (tying corners together that have cracked apart from each other) and I'm using fiberglass rebar as pins after drilling through (no steel) since they sell that at Lowes here. Grouting with cementall. Anywhere I need some tie wire, I'm using bendable stainless. And all this because I'm the homeowner and I have the facility to take my time and experiment.
Hi peep, I hope it works out well thanks, Mike
I have always loved stone work. I am just an amateur but I have built a chimney and fireplace at my cabin in the NC mountains. It is built on piers but I am currently filling in the foundation with stone. I really enjoy your videos. I have learned a lot from you and I greatly appreciate the tips and being able to benefit from your experience. I also appreciate your humility and your faith. We have never met and probably never will but I consider you a good friend. I hope that’s ok.
Hi Gary, I appreciate it, thanks for the kind words, mike
Great job Mike, wetting that down is definitely a masters touch. 👍👍 I totally smashed that like button.!
Thanks Solid Works, mike
Hey, I liked that hammer haha!
Thanks, mike
Thank you for this video
Thanks Ashley, Mike
Hi Mike! I just discovered your channel and I love it. I live in a 1920s house with a fieldstone foundation, and there's a lot of crumbling mortar--probably the lime mix that you show in some of your videos. I'd like to restore/repoint the foundation myself, if I can. In your basement restoration videos, you coat and seal all the stones with cement, but I would like the stones to show in the interior of the basement; I think they add character. Can I use the technique you use here with the barn, and just mortar around the stones? Will it be less effective for keeping out moisture? Thanks!
Hi Susan, I never had problems with moisture, I have a whole playlist in repointing stone work, that should help, Mike
I learned a lot from this one, Mike. Great work.
Thanks Brian, Mike
Once again, great video!!!
Thanks Paul, mike
Thanks Mike. This is great. Do you have any videos of recreating a barn stone foundation for a barn relocation and renovation?
Hi MC, I got a video out called "early American stone work" Mike haduck or any of my stone veneer installation video might give some good tips, thanks Mike
Nice! I have some landscaping rock I wanna tighten up before it rolls my ankle. I think this formula will work well. Thanks, Mike!
Thanks Michael, mike
Excellent work - if i could do it all over again I'd have loved to have done some masonry work !
Thanks Walter, mike
If you want it to stick, you gotta get it wet!
Thanks, mike
Hi Mike. Thank you so much for your videos and sharing your knowledge with us.
I am repointing a rock wall with fairly big joints, but there are also some real thin areas that need to be repointed. I had planned on using the Type S commercial grade mortar to fill the joints. After watching this video, I wanted to ask if I should add the cement sand or the finer sand to my S mortar? I want a real smooth surface when I'm done and I live in southern New Mexico, so we get very little snow and low levels of rain.
Thanks for any guidance you can provide.
Hi Brent, I think if you ask ten masons you would get 10 different answers, where I live that is what I show what I use in each video, I hope it helps, Mike
@@MikeHaduck Thanks again.
I have an old barn on which i intend to shore up the foundation using your technique. I was wondering, as the sill needs to be replaced due to rot, how you suggest i level it before replacing the sill. Would I just smooth off the top using this same type of mortar mixture and then lay on some pressure treaated and then add a 6x6 sill beam or do you suggest another mixture to level it off? Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. Thanks. Your videos are awesome...
Hi, It's impossible to say unless I was there to see it. I would ask some of the local experts to get a solid opinion, thanks Mike
Mike, thanks for the education! I have a faux stone veneer that could use some additional mortar in the joints, which is also more of the look we want. Is this same process applicable to veneer stone? Maybe a German shmear result?
Hi AB, I can't say unless I was there but I would do a little experimenting where nobody would see it, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck Will Do. Thanks again!
You allready know I applaud the job.
Thanks Richard, Mike
Thanks mike
Thanks mark, mike
Do you need to mix in sand with your type s mortar or can you just use the type s mortar by itself for repointing granite foundation?
Hi Jay, I am happy with the premix s mortar, I had no problem, thanks Mike
Love the look of stone i hate when guys cover the stone with mortar , i like to see more of the stone , good job Mike .
Thanks Rocco, mike
Hi Mike, I wrote to you quite a while ago asking how to match cement for a wall that my mom drove into, its Bay Port Stone and the mortar is very light colored, not gray and not brown, the mason used something that was very dark gray and looked awful everyone that drove by could see the patch, you said to make a paint out of ??? My husband knows, anyway Jeff finally did it after I hounded him quite a bit and it looks beautiful! I used to mumble about the darn patch not matching well now it does, Jeff said he put it off because he thought it would be hard and worried that he would make it worse, but once he got started he couldn’t believe how easy and fast it went, he is very happy how well it turned out and so am I, thank you for the videos that you make, the best part is he’s not avoiding me anymore 🤣 Maybe I’ll send a before and after picture.
Thanks Cindy, mike
Hi, Mike,great show.
Do you know of any videos on pointing tight butter joints?
Thank you.Al.
so you don't just use type N or type S mortar by itself? I have to repoint the outside of my stack stone basement up here in upsate ny, just over the border of PA. Should I use type N with sand mix?
Hi Ducan, I use what works in my area. And I never had a problem,, Lots of controversies over what to use, mike
Mike I’m curious why you didn’t mix any Portland in this mix?
Hi Richard, I did a video called, what cement should I use part 2, I explain it best there. S mortar does have Portland in it, is a up and down wall, thanks Mike
Hey Mike, I have another question, I went to the Mason yard. I wanted your opinion they said they sell a cold weather additive I put in the mortar. They told me it basically forces it to cure a quicker and forces the moisture out of the mortar. They told me it did not change the color of the mortar. I just want to finish up because cold weather is here your opinion on the cold weather additive?
Hi Guy, I never had to use it, but some do, I usually covered my work overnight, thanks Mike
Hey Mike using types S with 2 parts sand and it’s coming out little to gray from me is there anything I can do to make it a bit more white ? Thanks
I’m repointing a old stone bank barn in Boyertown pa
Hi Lee, I use to use white motar and sea sand but it's hard to get anymore, so I started using a white premix stucco mix, I hope it helps. MIKE
@@MikeHaduck awesome thanks. Adding the white premix stucco is safe with the type s and 2 parts sand like in your video?
Another fascinating video Mike. Excellent work too.
Would you know what the foundation or footer is for the barn in the video ?
I need to have one of My basements repointed. I got RockStone just like that.
12:03 - You say the Concrete Block is a 30-50 year job. Is it due to it being a concrete block and not cinder-block?
Thanks for the video.
Hi Memo, the wall ties rot in time depending on moisture, thanks Mike
1:50 I’ve bought that before. It was called torpedo sand
Thanks ,its the first time I heard that, mike
hay mike when building a stone wall with limestone and s morter do u have to wet the stones befor laying them ?
Hi John, I never do, usually just the stick on stone but stone veneer 5 inches or more I never have, thanks, Mike
thank u mike
Mike, we nominate you for host of the new TV game show: Let's NOT make a Big Deal.
Thanks for the video, history lesson and how to get it done.
Paul
Thanks Paul, mike
.ain't no big deal love it
Thanks Frank, mike
For using that "no good" lime, that building has held up pretty well for being 130 years old. Hope I look that good when I am 130.
Exactly.
It wouldn't stand for 130 years if its owners hadn't been repointing it every decade.
It's a very charming structure.
I’m pretty sure that building has had dozens of repairs through out the years just to keep it standing this day. Without repairs it would’ve been a mountain of rubble. Lime is good but the structure wouldn’t be here without repairs
I'm trying to find one of your videos I watched where you regrouted an old stone basement foundation.
Around these parts the basements were made out of slag stone with lime mortar that falls apart, I haven't seen one yet to point up, I always seem to have to plaster over everything, but if I find a stone cellar that is like that I will be sure to film it, thanks mike
Hey Mike, when building early American style fireplaces in the center of the house with yard/farm stone, is there a trick to keep the stone from cracking and breaking? I find that my local stone shatters when used to build a fire pit(not cemented)
Hi, the biggest problem with outside fireplaces is they build a huge fire very fast and it cracks them, a fire has to be built slow and gradually, I never seen one that wasn't cracked, no matter what you use, if you can build one without the outside joints showing it will not show the cracks, my opinion, mike
@@MikeHaduck ok Thanks Mike
Hi Mike can I please send you a video or picture to show you the mess I did trying to follow your video and if I don't do something to fix it before my husband gets home he's gonna kill me. please respond Mike I just need some advice and a little guidance please please please
Hi Tina, I guess you could ,whatever you did a steel brush and water usually gets rid of the stains before it fully drys,
From the uk. Do you ever use mortar mix in your mortar?
I might add portland to my mortar if I think it needs to be a little stronger, thanks mike
Thanks Mike for sharing your knowledge. What's the reasoning behind the use of lime as mortar? I thought cement was available as early as the Roman period.
Hi I heard that, but like anything you can't get a straight answer from anyone, thanks mike
Lime is the binder or glue. Cement was not around in Roman times and is not suitable for stone EVER. Cement will destroy stone over time. You need to look at various limes.
Terrific barn; good job repointing. It didn't appear as tedious as I've seen others make it. Did you repoint the second foundation shown near the end?
Hi 65, a work in progress a little every year, thanks Mike
I throw my mortar in like stucco, great technique. Fast and effective, And than Sponche it clean. What do you think about this technique?
Hi Chris, I do that too depending on the dept and size of the cracks like on my foundation repair videos, anything that works, thanks Mike
Hey Mike, I'm going to be patching and redoing sections of a sea wall (fresh water) next week. It's been built out of field stone, with big joints. I've been thinking a lot about my mortar mix. It's a big area, so I'm doing it from raw ingredients. I was thinking to use concrete sand, portland and just a bit of lime. Kinda like a M type mortar 3/1/12
Does that sound about right to you?
For reference, I'm in Montreal. It gets cold here. I'd be heading to Pennsylvania to warm up.
Thanks brother
Hi Peter, I am just a Portland and sand guy for anything outside that gets wet, others say different, thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck Gotcha. But doesn't the mason's mix you use have some lime in it?
Absolutely no footings under my shed Mike built from stone never had an issue with it .moves around a bit though sometimes the bolts on the door don't line up . Dave from Wales 🏴
Thanks David, Wales has my favorite stone work, thanks Mike
Awesome video mike and rember if you want it to stick you gotta wet it
Thanks Zack, Mike
Another Great Video! Thank you Mike! How deep of a gap between stones can I fill with this mix? Do I need to do several layers if the gap is too deep?
Hi rium,, sometimes I might have to go over it, all depends on how deep, thanks, mike
@@MikeHaduckthanks Mike. what about 4" deep?
Great video Mike! Q for you. Need to repoint part of the block foundation on my 40 y.o. house in WNY. Can I just use Type S, or would it benefit me to make up a mix like you did with either Sharps or masonry cement?
Hi Boots, s mortar premix is usually fine , if I think it should be stronger I add a bit Portland, it depends, thanks Mike
Hi Mike, we call that type of sand " grit sand" here in England.
It is limestone chippings down to dust.
"Sharp sand "is a course type of sand.
Hi Lee, good thing to know, sharp is what's what they called it at the castle , thanks mike
So,I can add lime instead of colouring chemicals/admixture to make cement sand mix whiter.
Use white portland and white sand.
Use silica sand and white mortar and the end job will glisten!
JIM
The Stonehouse I’m referring to is in Saco Maine. If you would like to come up and do a UA-cam episode on these houses, we have a spare room and you’re more than welcome.
Thanks guy, I appreciate it but actually moved to Florida, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck I’ll upload a short UA-cam video and I’ll leave it unlisted so you can take a look. And Florida sounds fantastic I’m 58 and I told my wife I want to retire at 62 but we’ll see.
@@MikeHaduck
ua-cam.com/video/LMS-PG6uq28/v-deo.htmlsi=aBPHbja8V0EoNK3k
Mike this one of your best videos, excellent advice and very well explained. One question, what's the difference between Type S Mortar and Type S Masonary Cement? I've seen both bags and can't find a good explaination of the difference. Is it just the amount of portland/lime in each is higher or lower? Thanks!
Hi, I would say its basically the same, I starting to do a new video on that, thanks Mike
Hey, Mike! Found you today. New subscriber. Going to take on pointing an old outbuilding on my property and this video was exactly the motivation I needed to prove to myself that I could do it.
Can you get the different types of sand at the big box stores too?
Hi, you could use play sand or go to a landscaping or masonry provided to get it, thanks mike
"The only hammer I got" did you find it in the tailings of the old barn? I never seen one like it and rusted to hell! LOL
Thanks rifra,, Mike
...now i gota get an old barn
Thanks Savio, that's a good one, lol, mike
Hey Mike nice shirt. I didnt know you watched that guy. Lol
Thanks Jeremy, mike
So the barn was built in 1888 that's 132 years old and it is still in nice shape, but you said they didn't use the correct mortar because what they used was all that they had. Seems pretty good to me to last that long.
I think you're saying that if they had used one part S mortar to two parts sharp sand that the barn would not need pointing now.
I'm thinking S mortar for pointing giving another 132 years would be good enough for me.
Just pulling your leg Mike, but really, how much better do you want it.
JIM
Thanks Jim, it's a good way to look at it, Mike
And remember folks (it ain’t no big deal )!
👍😎👍
Thanks again, mike
Practical experience trumps book learnin' every time.
Thanks, mike
I have post notifications on and I’m usually checking my subscription feed and I don’t see your post in my feed nor to I get your notifications. A LOT of your subscribers don’t even know you are posting videos. they should really fix UA-cam already it’s 2020
Thanks interga, I am aware of that and know they have that problem, thanks Mike
Good word iron sharpens iron
Thanks Brandon, mike
The biggest lesson I have learnt this year is don’t use lime in Pensilvania... simple 🤣🤣
Hi Tony ,I am starting to work on another video on cement use, thanks mike
Hello Mike,
your techniques are interesting. I have a question.
Why are you using cement mortar? don't you think that We should use lime mortar?
Mortar supposed to be a sacrificial element in any kind of wall.
When a mortar becomes stronger than a stone, a mortar hurts a stone severely over a period of time.
Hi Ajay, I am working with granite, cement is softer than the stone,lime mortar does not hold up in my area, I show what I use in all my videos, i also have videos called " what cement should I use,? " I hope it helps, mike
@@MikeHaduck Ok Mike, I've got your point, thanks.