How-To Upgrade/Modify/Add Flicker-Free LED Lighting To Your Coaches/Locomotives etc. Hornby Triang.
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- Опубліковано 31 січ 2014
- PLEASE NOTE I made an incorrect statement at 6:55. You ALWAYS have to use the bridge rectifier regardless of DC or DCC.
Hornby Triang & indeed any brand featuring: How to install/improve/upgrade or even add flicker-free LED lighting to your rolling stock/locomotives etc. Hope you all find this interesting & useful? Kind regards, John. - Навчання та стиль
This Irishman is the best!!!.
We need everyone to sit in on his demonstration. Absolutely amazing down to earth.
Thank you John from the other side of the pond! I watched the video again since I'm ready to try this on some of my coaches. I appreciate how clearly you explained and demonstrated each component. Thanks for your help.
Best explanation I've seen on how to make LEDs flicker free.
Well done sir.
What a brilliant tutorial. Was having trouble doing my lighting, now its so easy. Fantastic.
I wish you’d been my Physics teacher, I very much enjoyed your passion and attention to detail, yet it was simple and clear.......This is the go to channel for me now! Many thanks.
Chrystal clear and easy to understand even with no knowledge of electronics, thank you.
Definitely love your video tutorials. You´re quite the teacher, mate. After watching your videos on lighting I got on e-Bay and got me some LED´s, current limiting resistors and a few bridge rectifiers and capacitors. Now I am going to have at it with my coaches. I blew out 8 to 10 LED´s before I remembered the current limiting resistor. Live and learn. Oh, and I just had to subscribe to your video channel. Crack on, mate. Cheers from your friend across the great pond. :-) Just wish I had that Irish coffee you just spilled. Yum, yum. After watching your videos I changed out all the lighting from incandescent to LED lighting on my whole railroad. I used bright white LED strips which didn't look like coaches in the late 1880's to early '90's so I painted each LED with yellow acrylic paint and now wife says it looks better. W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee
John, I have come back to this video time and time again for reference. It (you) are brilliant. Before I came across you the idea of electronics of any type made as much sense as cold fusion. Now I have successfully lit one carriage. Unfortunately my soldering skills are not great and I have accidentally burnt many items, not including my fingers worse than an American burns bacon. Anyway. Thanks very much.
Once again John, great detailed and informative video.
Like the way you explained the different components used ie. Voltage and amps. The smaller bridge rectifier is just the job,
It's well explained for those who are fairly new to electronics.
Thanks. Oliver.
Oliver Rooney Thanks for the kind comment Oliver.....I always try & explain things as best as I can. Kind regards, John.
Genius. I never thought of putting the cap on the other end of the LED strip. Well done. Now i need a cap that will fit in an n scale coach
This is the best video on this subject on UA-cam. Very specific. Thanks.
Very informative! Enjoyed watching and re-learning basic electronic theory. Keep them coming.
Thanks Frank...al the best mate, cheers, John.
Fantastic John, I now understand capacitors & rectifiers much more, thanks Guy. Sorry to hear about the Irish coffee I would have been gutted too, try it with grand marnier instead of whisky !
Great tutorial, just clicked on your website, very impressive! I love stereo tube amps, have been using the old Quad II's for years
Dave Harriman Thanks mate....glad you enjoyed the website too & top-man...love the Quad II's myself as well! Best regards, John.
You are a genius sir, I'll be putting your knowledge to good use on my triang super 4 layout
Thank you so much for this excellent tutorial. You explanations made this so easier to understand the assembly and installation.
Brilliant as usual John. Keep'em coming..........David
Will do David & that's a promise! Thanks for the support, cheers, John.
Very helpful vid John, Ive learned lots about electronics from you as well as many model tips!
Steve
Thank you Steve....I always like to help others if I possibly can. All the best, John.
Best explanation for performing thus task. Easy to undrrstand
I now feel like i'm an electrician, excellent, thank you 👍😃
Superb tutorial John! Would love to add lighting to some of my stock! Will know where to go if I want to recap on instructions! The results look amazing! LOL! Great work!
Sorry for the delay Cal. Glad you found the vid useful...all the best, john.
Cheers for that John, very helpful and in laymans terms too.
Thanks David....glad it was useful for you....I always try & explain as best as I can. Best regards, John.
Absolutely brilliant how to video buddy, really helpful, cheers Stu @ Lime Junction.
Thanks Stu....always happy to help. Best, John.
Brilliant John
Thanks david...kind regards, John.
Great video, simple and effective solution. Beware a 16v Capacitor could be marginal when run with some DCC controllers. 25v capacitor safer due to DCC peak voltages >16v which voltmeter won't show but oscilloscope will. I blew one 16v capacitor on DCC, but fine when I upped rating to 25v. Luckily it blew on test rig and didn't damage coach. Not an issue with 12v DC. Thanks again. Video inspired me to light stock and add tail lamps to brake vans, etc, for a fraction of cost of commercial lighting kits.
Very helpful, thank you!
Thank you for a brilliant how to, so informative
Sorry for the delay. Glad to have been of service. Cheers, John.
Nice no nonsense to the point.
excellent video taught me a lot
Wow! What an interesting video, mate. Your information was precise and very informative. Every detail was covered and I enjoyed learning how to improve my coach lighting. The LED's I purchased (China) are 3 LED's long with only one current limiting resistor for each 3 LED's. Where do you find the single LED's with current limiting resistor for each LED? I live in the US, mate. Great video! Keep 'em comin'. Thanks.
Thank you very much I am experiencing this problem on my Amtrak cars now I know how to fix it.
oh no John "dont waste the whiskey buddy " lol, love the video
great video john
Sorry for the delay Dave but nevertheless....thanks for the usual kind comment. Regards, John.
Just done a full rake of hornby mk 3s 8 of them! Looks amazing
That's great! have you got a video of them that you can share with us all? Regards, John.
That's an excellent "how to" John and that's going to come in very handy because I have just that problem after fitting LED's into a couple of my coaches, they work absolutely fine but flicker just like you said. Thanks for sharing that information - it's much appreciated. ............Graham
Sorry for the delay but thanks Graham....glad to have been of help. Cheers, John.
Bridge rectifier - power either way, capacitor stops flickering - it is simpler than I thought. I just wish the manufacturers would make all their stuff like this. Thanks for posting.
Here here! Thanks for the perfect comment. Regards, John.
Great video very informative cheers Kevin
Thank you Kevin....appreciated. All the best, John.
Great tutorial John, might try that on some of my rolling stock sometime! From Will. :)
Sorry for the delay Will. Sounds good to me....go for it! We'll talk soon. Regards, John.
Nice one john great info & vid.......jim
Sorry for the delay Jim, your comments are always appreciated. Best, John.
Much obliged John .. Cheers Fred
No worries Fred....glad to help. Cheers, John.
Great video with great content
easy to follow and now it has inspired me to do a pair of coaches myself
only thing not covered is the way to identify the polarity of the capacitor but il google that awesome thank you
For an electrolytic capacitor the polarity is always marked on the component in some way, since it is absolutely critical. (If you are unlucky, the capacitor will simply have dissimilar length wires, and you might have to look up which is which!.)
The other point to notice is that LEDs tend to be quite directional.
Even the earlier designs are directional because of the lens design of the plastic housing (to get what light they produce in the direction required), but the newer SMD devices are directional because they are built in the plane of the board, and so provide very little light sideways.
This can provide benefits or problems, depending on your usage.
Hence when replacing bulbs, be aware of the direction the bulb is used, and try to install the right type of LED oriented correctly as a replacement.
Great stuff John Boy, as I was wondering how to do this and make lighted rolling stock with flicker free illumination.
Glad the video helped you mate! All the best, John.
Thank you for this very interesting video. It certainly made me subscribe to your channel. Just a note as I model only in prewar and post war Lionel and use the old tubular track that a few videos would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers
captjack
PoppaSkinnysFarm Thanks for the comment Jack but I'm sorry I cannot help you with any videos of the Lionel stuff. I simply don't have any! All the best, John.
No retail electronics stores in many US cities after Radio Shack went bankrupt. 😢. Used CRC 226 to lube conducting surfaces to reduce flicker a lot on S gauge.
Nice one john
Thanks Alex....regards, John.
Helpful and fun movie. I'd like to fit lighting to trams models. Someday I'll try for sure. Greetings from Częstochowa:)
Thank you buddy....your comment is very much appreciated. Best regards, John.
thank you again nice and simple ive ordered my components,ive already got led strips and one carriage with a disco on board so soon as they arrive i will be adding them on like yours then will do the other carriages, your videos are great to watch,i want to do the hornby controller mod soon when i aquire the right vintage!! unless you know a way to mod the lima 50 2052 controller???
Some great ideas here thanks - and hope you got a replacement Irish coffee :)
Thanks David & sadly...it was the last of the double-cream! I got some more the next day though. Kind regards, John.
Thanks for the video nice one, I have a Triang R28/220 that doesn't seem to open up, no screws or clips at the bottom or under the bogies, have also tried squeezing the sides to pop the roof off to no avail, took the undercarriage off bot there's just a large hole underneath. any ideas, The Irish coffee works well for a steady hand, do you have it on a towel so you can suck it out if you spill it! Tisk! John
Have just come across this video by chance John, and have to thank you for your clear and straightforward delivery which makes what can seem a complicated subject seem almost simple! Just a question, if I may - I have experimented with a similar circuit, but without the capacitor, on an analogue layout, and have come across the issue of the intensity of the lights varying with track voltage, i.e. loco speed. This is clearly not ideal and I wonder if the addition of the capacitor resolves the issue, or if there is some other component required? Paul
The cap will solve the problem.
John, as a simplification, could you not use a single diode to "pump up" the capacitor on DCC? The ac term of the DCC supply would work half-wave, and the LEDs don't need that much power. (Note that this would not work on DC, since it would only light in one direction. Note also that if you are doing each coach individually, you should distribute the coaches between the two rails to "load spread")
And do you attach an inline resistor to prevent inrush current being an issue, when multiplied by many coaches? Similar to your adjustable pot to adjust the brightness...
Hi John could you do a list of the parts with maplin part numbers please then I know the right bits to get
Thanks
Oliver
Hi John
Is it possible to add a capacitor to a small wheelbase loco to make it perform better over points?
If you have time and it is possible then a video would help !
Regards
Ray
Excellent video, simple, neat, great work, If you don´t mine I will use in my spanish Channel for Modelrailroad!!!
Hi John again when doing the light in buildings with light omitting diodes what size resisters do you use if you are on dcc or dc please
Ray
Does this work the same,for putting a capacitor in line for a decoder? if not,what would you need?
Hi John,
Love this video and gave it a try. I used a 1000uf capacitor with my LED strip but am having no end of issues. On DC control, at anything less than 75% power the light is barely visible. When the light is bright enough to see, it very clearly still has quite a bit of flicker and looks like there’s a nice roaring fire in the coach. The light doesn’t go off but certainly is not even. Wondering how I can touch base for a full description of the components I used and some troubleshooting advice on how to get to the flicker free lighting you managed to achieve.
Thanks,
Dave
David - on DC you control trains with voltage from 0-12V. With John's 12V LED strips you need 9-12V to make them light. You're getting no light because you have no voltage getting to the LEDs. On a DC layout, 12V gives you full speed. There are 5V LED strips that will work better, but you have to limit the voltage so you don't exceed 5V. Google LED strips USB to get 5V ones. If you google for flicker free lighting analog/analogue then you'll find some useful circuits. Hope this helps!
Thanks John, just a quick question what's the best way for power pickup , ps could the LEDs be used as diesel loco running lights . Cheers ...Fred
OK Fred, LED's can be used anywhere so as diesel loco running lights is perfectly fine. As regards your question about the pick-ups I'm not quite sure what you mean? If you are fitting LED's to a loco or piece of rolling stock that already has the old bulbs then the pick-ups will already be there in both cases. If however you want to add LED's to a wagon or coach that doesn't have lighting then pick-ups will need to be fitted. I intend to do a video on how to do this as soon as poss. Hope that helps? Best, John.
Had a smoke and a whiskey at the half way point.
Thank you.
+Russell Scohy No worries.....always glad to help if I can. Cheers, John.
Hi John can you tell me why you use a towel when you are soldering ok
I PLACED IT ON SUBTITLES SO I CAN WRITE DOWN THE CORRECT INFORMATION,,,I.E,BRIDGE RECTIFIER ETC CAROL.SHAME YOU DIDN'T NUMBER THE VIDEO ..ALL THE BEST KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK ,I HAVE LEARNT QUITE ABIT WATCHING YOUR VIDEOS BEING A FEMALE ,BEATS KNITTING ANY DAY MODEL RAILWAYS TO BE CONSTRUCTIVE AND CREATIVE AT THE SAME TIME -----CAROL
I attached the capacitor to the dc side of the rectifier and it almost doubles the voltage from 15v to 24v I can figure out why its burning up resistors and leds? Any ideas? thanks...
Material used:
rectifier: RS205 KBP06 600v
capacitor: 50v 3500 mf or 16v 1000mf
LED:E-10 5 LED china ebay bulb
resistor: 510k ohm
Power supply: lionel ZW transformer.
Will this work with A.C. current up to 18volts?
Hi Oliver I have put more info in comments where you can get everything from. Hope this helps? Cheers, John.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. It makes life simpler for lighting the coaches. One more question I have? I’ll be using DCC to light the coaches. Can 12v LED strip take the brunt of 9v to 18v surge of DCC? I will be putting 1K Ohm Trimmer Potentiometers as suggested by you. Please advise. Thanks.
Yes Ashis they will be fine.....please let me know how you get on? Kind regards, John.
Thanks John. So kind of you to help a novice like me. I have sent you another message through UA-cam Messaging system. Please have a look at it and see if you can help me in that problem too. Warm Regards, Ash
Ashis Mukerjea
Hi again Ashis....I have just replied to that message. Cheers, John.
Hi John, Finally I got all my material. Now I have to do what you showed us. I’ll keep you posted.
Ashis Mukerjea
Sounds good to me buddy....please keep me posted. All the best, John.
By using the trimpot in that way, how much load does it put onto the track? That would be like a resistor put directly across the power rail.
How does the trimpot cope with the current going through it? Does it get warm at all? (both LED current and the load by shorting directly across the rail power)
This is interesting. Did you ever figure out an answer to this? I would assume maybe you would have the same effect if you used a voltage regulator
in led strip whats is input volt? dcc or dc? tanks FER
I have put LED's in my O gauge and S gauge passenger cars. I need the part number for the 1k potentiometer you used. I have done all kinds of searches and can't find what you used, a excellent video by the way....Marty, across the pond.
you gave me an idea with the lights on front and back of your loco's if you use 1 red led 1 white led at each end you could leave out the bridge rectifier so when train goes forward front light comes on shines white ,reverse the train and it goes out and the red one comes on.
Hi john if you have the time ,what sort of rectifier type would I need for 16 volts I am not sure what I am looking for on ebay as there are so many types?...also where do I buy the single led 16 volt version like you show in the vid , or is the led cut off a strip?.
many thanks jim.
Hi Jim....no problem but I'm sure I gave out the number somewhere in this video & you can in-fact see it at the beginning. Anyway it is a DF005S & they are readily available everywhere. It is a perfect size to use for the trains & it is rated up-to 50 volts so will be fine for your application(s). Hope that all helps? Regards, John. PS. you can see the data sheet here: www.futureelectronics.com/en/technologies/semiconductors/discretes/diodes/bridge-rectifiers/Pages/7744139-DF005S.aspx?gclid=CPaPsdWWn9ACFQw4GwodgzUBaQ
Also Jim.....the single LED is available on ebay & is special for 12 - 16 volts. You cannot cut a single one from a reel as they are in three's for 12 - 16 volts however, since doing this video I wasn't that happy with the result so I took-out the diffuser & single LED, replacing them with a full length strip of 12 LED's like you saw in my latest video...far better & would recommend you follow suite. If you need any more help just ask. All the best, John.
Johns Amazing Trains - chambs123 many thanks John...
I have a dozens of fleischmann ice coaches all fitted with retro fleischmann lighting kits With an old fashioned bulb in each , they get faily warm...Part of the light kit inside the coach is a full length light prism where one bulb sits in the center of the coach roof , I think I may try the one bulb and see what it looks like.
Thanks again....I must drop in when I am next in yur area if you are in.....Jim
Yes Jim you must drop in next time.....just please let me know up front though. What you have in the Fleischmann coaches is the same principle as I had in this video with the Bachmann US coaches. The problem with the single LED is that there's little or no light comes from the side. This means that you will likely have the same problem as myself with the Prism doesn't pick-up enough light from the sides. Getting rid of the Prism & bulb & putting a full length strip in looks amazing!! You can get the rectifiers from RS components here: uk.rs-online.com/web/p/bridge-rectifiers/7102875/ Hope that helps again. Best regards, John.
Johns Amazing Trains - chambs123 Many thanks again John for your time...
I will let you know when I am in Nottingham again...all the best jim..
In reply to Alan Watt. You can get the capacitors & bridge rectifiers from RS Components....just Google it. The LED strips are easily found on ebay! Hope that helps? Regards, John.
Great vid John will have to try it out too. Could I ask as you purchase a lot of triang locos, how much would be unboxed class 81 and 3f (tender version)
Hi buddy & sorry for the delay but....thanks for your kind comment. As for your question well....this is not an easy answer. It depends on many factors but basically the condition? Keep checking whats happening with both models on ebay & then you'll get 'a feel' as to what they are fetching! Hope that helps? regards, John.
cheers mate yes i have sold them know got £45
***** OK.........cool! Cheers, John.
Hi John. Followed your instructions for flicker free lighting using the same spec of parts as yourself but the lights still flicker. Also when train stops the coach lights go out immediately. The wheels and track are clean. Any suggestions?
Hi Allan. OK, if you followed the video correctly there's no reason for it not to work! You must have missed something somewhere? I can tell you that the problem will have something to do with the capacitor as this is the main component that stops the flicker. You need to recheck everything. Hope this helps? Cheers, John.
Hi John can you add led lights to a coach that has no pick ups on dc many thanks Anthony
Where can I get the leds strips 3.3 volts to run off a battery
Rather than solder the BR and Cap directly to the led, could I use pieces of wire between the LED and the BR/Cap, so that I could put them in a less visible area of the coach
+Russell Scohy Absolutely you can Russ....I do that quite often when I need to. Don't forget though to keep the polarity correct! Regards, John.
I am trying to order the bridge rectifiers. I went to Ebay and put the #DF0005S, 1AMP, in the search, and it came up with a lot of choice and different types. Does it need to be the 16Volt, like the capacitors? All I am seeing is 50Volt version surface mount version.
+Russell Scohy The 50 volt surface mount is the correct one Russell. Cheers, John.
just to let people know- the current hornby coaches with working table lights do contain a bridge rectifier and capacitor already, they are attached to 1 or 2 large LEDs (depending on weather they are a brake or not) with some fibre optics to the table, they just need the LED and protecting resistor replacing with smaller and less current hungry ones and/or the capacitor replacing with a larger one (speaking from experience my h and m duette will charge a capacitor up to 16v due to noise and a gaugemaster dcc select will charge it up to 18.5v, so i would advise 25v 105c capacitors for improved longevity)
one after thought- an overcharged capacitor may go pop and damage your favourite model, or deteriorate over time and go pop, to avoid this you can over engineer it with higher voltage capacitor (25v ok 35v to be extra safe?- itll only ever charge to what your controller outputs) and/or add a zener diode over the capacitor terminals to dissipate any extra voltage. (if you were so inclined you could add a resistor after the rectifier of about 1k, or a dc-dc converter (which ever you fancy to lower the voltage to 5v or so - the dc-dc is better for this) use a 5v super capacitor to get a massive capacitance in a small space, use a zener diode to protect it from overcharge and power the LEDs off that to get a longer time for the lights to stay on for after stopping- but be aware super capacitors do make a lovely bang when they fail).
second after thought for those less comfortable with electronics- capacitors will work in parallel! meaning if you take 2 small capacitors and connect both positive and both negative terminals you will effectively have a capacitor with a capacitance of the sum of the 2 capacitors used (or more than 2 if you want). just thought that may be helpful as it may be easier to hide several small capacitors rather than one large one.
Thanks Marc for adding interesting information to my channel....it is always appreciated when people take the time-out to do this. I have to say that if Hornby are now fitting anti-flicker caps in those coaches it must be fairly recent. I have a full set of all the coaches with illuminated table lamps & none of them have it!! Regards, John.
Marc Purkiss
Thanks again for adding information Marc. I must say though that modern caps are far superior than the older ones. A cap today will easily stand + 50% of it's rated voltage for quite some time! Cheers, John.
Do you have a part number for the potentiometer? How many ohms and watts is it? I assume it is 16volt? I am new to this. Hopefully not too many dumb questions for you.
+Russell Scohy Hi again Russ....I have told the value of the potentiometer in the video. It needs to be .5 watt but the voltage doesn't apply here. Hope that helps? Best, John.
Does this same process work for DCC?
Where are you John??
I miss your tutorials
belloooooo
I made up this circuit using a 9 led strip, 4700uF capacitor and a 1000v bridge rectifier. It works exactly as you said. This is my first dabble with electronics and your video is just great, thank you for that. The only problem is the 9 led's drain the capacitor fairly quickly. Would you happen to know how large a capacitor I would need to keep them lit longer? Thanks for the video and great job!!!
Vince Ciulla Hi Vince......thanks for your comment & kind words. Glad it all worked out OK for you but I must say a 1000 volt bridge is a bit of an overkill! lol. As regards the size of the capacitor well there is no limit! The bigger the better really....it's all down to how much room you have in the coach, wagon or locomotive? All the very best, John.
chambs123 Can I use 2 4700uF caps? (I apologize if these are stupid questions but I am electronics ignorant.)
Vince Ciulla Yes Vince of course you can....the higher the uf value you use...the longer the LED(s) will stay lit. Hope this helps? Best, John.
@@vinceciulla5282 - yes -- make sure you solder them in parallel (solder one directly alongside the other, + to +, - to - ) the capacitance values then add up. (If you solder them in series you'll reduce the total value!)
When are you coming back John . You are missed
hi john love your videos can you tell me how to stop flickering leds on diesels ive tried it with a capasitor but it just blows kind regards mib
i ment the bi directional lights cheers
John
First of all I am a senior citizen and have watched your flicker free video at least 20 times. So now I am about to start lighting my vast fleet of coaches. I am a retired engineer and have purchased all the equipment you said. But today I connected a capacitor (taking care of the polarity)to a LED strip, so good so far they all light but soon as I attached the bridge rectifier they would not light and the polarity was correct they would not light in either direction. Can you please help.
regards John
Hi John. If you want to give me your mobile number and (or) your email address I contact you for a chat...it is much easier! Cheers, John.
Hi John
Thanks for contacting me , my mobile number is: 07999693054. I look forward to hearing from you
You need constant current for driving LED. A potentiometer will not do the trick because of it's low current driving capability. You will burn down the carbon film within minutes. That's why constant current led driving regulators are made for. LED lighting.
Stefan Craescu Hi Steph....thanks for your input. The ballast resistors are already on the LED strips for the constant current. The pot I use is absolutely fine for the job....I have converted (or added LED lighting) to more than 30 of my coaches now with probably 150 still left to do & hey...no burn-outs buddy!!
Maybe you'd find my website interesting? www.chambonino.com
Kind regards, John.
Hi will this system work with DCC
Bla bla blam... O yes! :D
Very cool!!!
Thanks buddy.....cheers, John.
chambs123 The TT model railway was built: facebook.com/TTModellvasut?ref=hl :)
Hello everybody....please let me give you an update here. OK, I am being asked about the availability of the parts/components used in this video & where to get them all from? You don't have to use Maplin [UK] for everything. This guy on ebay has all the various types of LED strips:
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151025926614?var=450164162880&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
You can Google for the other parts...just Google for everything: 'DF005S' for the bridge rectifier. '3300uf @ 16v' for the capacitor. '1K resistor' [for fixed reduced lighting output] & '1K miniature pre-set' for the adjustment control....it's that easy!
Hope this helps you all? Kind regards, John.
hi loved the tutorial on installing the flicker free light, I am now wanting to start and install some of my own. I just wanted to know if 12v led strips would be ok or do they need to be 16V?
Hi Nick.....use 12 volt LED strips as most of them are. I have put a link in a comment above to a guy on ebay who has ALL the various types! Regards, John.
Carlos will this system work on DCC?
It will work on dcc, but you must increase the working voltage of the capacitor to at least 16 volts.
dear friend i have a 12 volts led strip, do you know whats capacitor could be instaled in my proyect? because i need to put ligth to my passenger car interior and i cannot found 12 volt capacitor, i will to apreciate your support, best regards Fernando Torres
Sorry for the reply delay. OK, you need to use 16 volt capacitors...you can find them easy on ebay or Google 'RS Components'. Hope that helps? Best, John.
tanks freind for your support, a 16volt capacitor will not burn led strip? tanks again!!! FERNANDO TORRES
Fernando Torres No Fernando....16 volt capacitors will not burn-out your LED strips....it does not work like that. The capacitor stores the voltage to keep the LED's lit but it needs to be more than your supply voltage which can sometimes reach the 16 volts. I hope this helps you? Kind regards, John.
tanks John best regards FER
HELLO JOHN I HAVE FOUND IT...THE FLICKER- FREE ,THE CONVERSATION.TOOK AWHILE TO LOCATE..I HAVE ALL THE NECESSARY ITEMS AS SHOWEN WITHIN THE VIDEO(FULL BRIDGE REGIFIER ETC )LIGHTING FOR COACHES ETC,SO SORRY TO BE A PEST JOHN ....CAROL
hi look at your video great not sore about something is this dc or dcc conversion as I am not sore, as my layout is dc please let me know.
ray
Hi Ray....this lighting conversion/update works on both DC & DCC. Hope that helps you? All the best, John.
Just tape a strip to the ceiling of the coach
Guys....you can get all the LED strips you'll ever want from here: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6v-9v-12v-DC-LIGHTING-1-2-3-6-9-LED-STRIPS-LIGHTS-MODEL-RAILWAY-HORNBY-OO-GAUGE-/151025926614?pt=UK_Trains_Railway_Models&var=&hash=item2329d8c1d6
How lucky you were to have a self-protecting LED @4:00. An unprotected LED will just fail, maybe short-circuit, maybe open-circuit, maybe explode and blow a piece of plastic in your eye.
Trust me on this, I have been working with LEDs since 1973.
it will look like the sodor railway started working with vladimir putin