Fantastic tutorial covering a few things that I've never considered as well as things I've forgotten. And the bevel style explanations are infinitely helpful.
I find the Celtic designs take more concentration when making the cuts. The cuts need to be as precise as possible so that the width of the pattern is consistent. Especially where the pattern loops over and under. I find the Celtic is less forgiving of mistakes than floral. That said I enjoy it. Tandy has Craftaid designs that you may want to try. I have the # 76612, # 76613 and # 76614. Each has five or six designs that you imprint in the leather. An easy way to get started. Thanks again Daniel.
Nice, I always wondered if I was being excessive beveling again and again but now I know, I just have high standards. Also, never thought of putting flow lines underneath my knot work, always used matting beveler, gonna try that. Thanks
Thank You for Your Tutorial. Trying to learn how to create Leather Projects has been interesting because it looks so easy and yet I can mess up so easily by trying to go too quickly. I'm learning to just go easy and watch as the artwork comes to life. I still complete all projects no matter if I mess up or not, I've been pleasantly surprised with how everything turns out at the end. Perfect? No. But Decent? Yes Thanks Again for Your Time and Help, As well as the Pattern to practice with!! 🙂
I mentioned this exact thing in one of my articles about how no, not all of us want to know how to tool another flower or deer lol. That doesn't mean we don't respect those amazingly talented toolers, it just means we want to have variety. I am currently working on creating linework patterns for anyone who wants to do these kinds of carvings/toolings. I encourage you to check it out when I release them (hoping to start producing one a week starting this Friday 12/09/2022). I ink in vector, so you can scale the art to any size you need. The problem is, it takes me hours to create designs as the viking style art (I cringe at this term "Vikings" since it is technically inaccurate, but it's what most people know my art style as) is intricate and very precise. I also try to make my linework simple enough so beginners can take a stab at actually tooling them lol. That is the hard part. Designing a zoomorphic creature that is worth spending the time tooling, but also not making it too hard. It can be very hard to cut curvy lines for a beginner, not to mention parallel curvy lines!!! The triskele w/ circle in this video is very approachable, and very well designed with proper proportions. I was curious how you were going to approach the over-under design, and the triple-cut lines with the swivel looks exactly like what I do on my linework. Now to get myself some better bevelers...
Sounds like you've got some cool designs. Once you're done with them I'd love to use them in some of my videos. You can Dm me on Instagram or find me in the Chuck Dorsett Fan Club on Facebook. I'd love to see your designs.
@@TheLeatherverse Consider it done. I will add you on Insta. TBH, the constant feedback from an experienced tooler like yourself would be so cool. Then I would know to either dumb my designs down, or ramp up the difficulty. Thanks for the reply, talk soon.
Awesome instruction! It really makes sense when you explain these things. I have one question, I would like to do a handle wrap on a hatchet using the Celtic design. Should I use an adhesive to hold the wrap in place or not. Or, is the tightness of the rapid self good enough? Thanks again for taking your time to make these videos, they really help a lot.
Sorry for the delayed response. When is done correctly, the stitching should hold it in place. You can always add a little wood glue to the back of the leather if you're worried.
Excellent instructional video. What weight of leather do you think is best for a beginning tooler to use for practice? I have a variety of leather weights from 2 to 3 ounce up to 8 to 9. Should I look for some heavier leather scraps for practice? I have done some tooling on 6 to 7 ounce. Thanks for your help.
I don't have the piece to check, but I guess it's possible. I usually set the depth with a ruler, but it's possible that I eyeballed it. Honestly don't remember.
Nice video. Free pattern= new subscriber. One comment the tools you demo’d you explain what they do.. but for example. The described as the Ferrari. What part of the pattern. Or kind of pattern? Leaves? Flowers? Or edges. Great video though ver informative.
Thank you! The Ferrari bevels are from Robert Beard. I showed the as part of showing which tools I like to use, but they weren't used in this pattern. I primarily use them in areas that need super fine detail...very little shadow from the bevel. Thanks again!
Fantastic tutorial covering a few things that I've never considered as well as things I've forgotten. And the bevel style explanations are infinitely helpful.
This is awesome!!! Thank you for going into the nuances of the different bevelers (and also where to get them!). I’m excited to try this out today.
My pleasure! Hope it helps.
Thank you Daniel. Another great teaching video.
Thank you!
Thanks for your modern take on this great hobby
I find the Celtic designs take more concentration when making the cuts. The cuts need to be as precise as possible so that the width of the pattern is consistent. Especially where the pattern loops over and under. I find the Celtic is less forgiving of mistakes than floral. That said I enjoy it. Tandy has Craftaid designs that you may want to try. I have the # 76612, # 76613 and # 76614. Each has five or six designs that you imprint in the leather. An easy way to get started. Thanks again Daniel.
The consistency aspect being less forgiving is a great point I hadn't considered.
I'll definitely look into those. Thanks!
Great video. You covered many of the things I teach my scouts. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Thank you! Happy to do it.
Merci beaucoup depuis la France !
Vous êtes les bienvenus... Du Texas !
Nice, I always wondered if I was being excessive beveling again and again but now I know, I just have high standards. Also, never thought of putting flow lines underneath my knot work, always used matting beveler, gonna try that. Thanks
Good presentation skills and very useful information. Thanks.
Thank You for Your Tutorial. Trying to learn how to create Leather Projects has been interesting because it looks so easy and yet I can mess up so easily by trying to go too quickly. I'm learning to just go easy and watch as the artwork comes to life. I still complete all projects no matter if I mess up or not, I've been pleasantly surprised with how everything turns out at the end. Perfect? No. But Decent? Yes Thanks Again for Your Time and Help, As well as the Pattern to practice with!! 🙂
Thats the way to do it. Those mistakes can either become a new technique or teach you what not to do! Keep it it up...you'll get there.
Awesome tutorial.....
Thank you!
I did a class Sunday at Tandy and we did this one my first.
I mentioned this exact thing in one of my articles about how no, not all of us want to know how to tool another flower or deer lol. That doesn't mean we don't respect those amazingly talented toolers, it just means we want to have variety. I am currently working on creating linework patterns for anyone who wants to do these kinds of carvings/toolings. I encourage you to check it out when I release them (hoping to start producing one a week starting this Friday 12/09/2022). I ink in vector, so you can scale the art to any size you need.
The problem is, it takes me hours to create designs as the viking style art (I cringe at this term "Vikings" since it is technically inaccurate, but it's what most people know my art style as) is intricate and very precise. I also try to make my linework simple enough so beginners can take a stab at actually tooling them lol. That is the hard part. Designing a zoomorphic creature that is worth spending the time tooling, but also not making it too hard. It can be very hard to cut curvy lines for a beginner, not to mention parallel curvy lines!!!
The triskele w/ circle in this video is very approachable, and very well designed with proper proportions. I was curious how you were going to approach the over-under design, and the triple-cut lines with the swivel looks exactly like what I do on my linework. Now to get myself some better bevelers...
Sounds like you've got some cool designs. Once you're done with them I'd love to use them in some of my videos. You can Dm me on Instagram or find me in the Chuck Dorsett Fan Club on Facebook. I'd love to see your designs.
@@TheLeatherverse Consider it done. I will add you on Insta. TBH, the constant feedback from an experienced tooler like yourself would be so cool. Then I would know to either dumb my designs down, or ramp up the difficulty. Thanks for the reply, talk soon.
Awesome tutorial 👍👍
Thank you!
New sub. Brand new to the craft! Ready to learn!!!❤
Awesome instruction! It really makes sense when you explain these things. I have one question, I would like to do a handle wrap on a hatchet using the Celtic design. Should I use an adhesive to hold the wrap in place or not. Or, is the tightness of the rapid self good enough? Thanks again for taking your time to make these videos, they really help a lot.
Sorry for the delayed response. When is done correctly, the stitching should hold it in place. You can always add a little wood glue to the back of the leather if you're worried.
I am just starting list of some starting tools would help budget friendly please.
I'll see if I can do a video on this.
Excellent instructional video. What weight of leather do you think is best for a beginning tooler to use for practice? I have a variety of leather weights from 2 to 3 ounce up to 8 to 9. Should I look for some heavier leather scraps for practice? I have done some tooling on 6 to 7 ounce. Thanks for your help.
Thank you! Anything between a 5 and 9 is great for tooling. You can go higher or lower, but 8ish is perfect in my opinion.
@@TheLeatherverse Thanks very much for replying. I will try not to be a pest.
@@8626John Thats what I'm here for. I don't always get the notifications, but when I do I try to help out as best I can. Please feel free.
What number of Barry King extra steep bevelers do you recommend to start?
I bought his set of 3 for roughly $99. Comes with a large, medium and very small. I use the med the most and the large the least.
Scribing window looks closer to 1/2 - 3/4"?
I don't have the piece to check, but I guess it's possible. I usually set the depth with a ruler, but it's possible that I eyeballed it. Honestly don't remember.
Hey Daniel, the website doesn't work anymore, so is there another place we can download the pattern from?
Just got it back up and running!
DanielReachCreations.com
@@TheLeatherverseHi Daniel - just tried the updated link and I can't find the pattern.
@@mattphipps1368 😉 danielreachcreations.com/store/p/celtic-knot-pattern
Nice video. Free pattern= new subscriber. One comment the tools you demo’d you explain what they do.. but for example. The described as the Ferrari. What part of the pattern. Or kind of pattern? Leaves? Flowers? Or edges. Great video though ver informative.
Thank you!
The Ferrari bevels are from Robert Beard. I showed the as part of showing which tools I like to use, but they weren't used in this pattern. I primarily use them in areas that need super fine detail...very little shadow from the bevel.
Thanks again!
I can’t find the link to access the pattern for the Celtic know
Here ya go.
danielreachcreations.com/store/p/celtic-knot-pattern
Can you add Turkish subtitles, please?
None of the links work for the pattern or the facebook link
Yeah, I'm making some adjustments. They should be back up in a week or so. I'll take the links out. Thanks for the reminder