Thanks for your vid. I’m about to mount a 350 long block on a four castor stand. Without having seen it done I was a bit concerned but now I feel confident. Getting the balance point will be important for when I rotate the engine.
As already stated, good point to bring up balancing the engine if more than just the bare block. Didn't get that from a couple other videos I watched. I skipped the 3 prong stand because of stability. Getting ready to dive into an engine rebuild and your video was valuable for safety reasons.
Great video. I wish I'd found it BEFORE I put my RAV4 engine on the Harbor Freight (Pittsburg) stand. Not knowing what you showed, I spent forever lining up the engine with the stand-instead of bolting the plate to the engine THEN inserting the plate into the stand. Jeez! Coulda saved so much work and dangerous fighting with a dangling engine. You are so right about not centering it on the crankshaft. Mine is way off-balance. It's safely locked in an upright position for now but there's no way to rotate it by hand. After watching your video, I may redo the whole process. Thanks for putting this out there.
I'm glad I found this video I just bought my first engine stand and this was all the info I was looking for. I'm fixing to go through a 305 Chevy thank you for this video
IF you break a grade 5 bolt that fits the transmission mount holes on an engine stand properly attached to the transmission mount holes, either the bolt is defective or damaged or you're doing something wrong. Grade 8 is not that much more expensive, and again, if you snap a grade 8 bolt on an engine stand . . . Here's 'the science': Grade 2 3/8 bolt coarse thread proof load is 4250 lbs (per bolt) Grade 5 3/8 bolt coarse thread proof load is 6600 lbs (per bolt) Grade 8 3/8 bolt coarse thread proof load is 9300 lbs (per bolt) The grade argument is relevant if you're using undersized bolts or over-torqueing the bolts. If you're just starting in mechanic work, google "torque chart", and use a torque wrench to get a feel for what is proper. Grade 2 3/8 bolt coarse thread recommended torque 15 ft. lbs Grade 5 3/8 bolt coarse thread recommended torque 23 ft. lbs Grade 8 3/8 bolt coarse thread recommended torque 33 ft. lbs. A reasonably strong person can easily over-torque a grade 5 3/8 bolts with a 1/2 inch ratchet. Sheer strength is not an ASTM specification, but sheer strength is probably not relevant for mounting the engine on an this type of stand. That said, according to multiple sources, shear strength of alloy steel is approximately 60% of its ultimate tensile strength. For a grade 2 3/8 bolt, the tensile strength (not proof load) is 5750 lbs. Sheer strength of a grade 2 3/8 bolt can be assumed to be about 3,450. However, the bolts are not in sheer on the engine stand under normal conditions. Calculating the stress on the bolts requires thinking about the leverage of the engine sticking out past the bolt, and that is more complex than a UA-cam comment. While a grade 2 bolt *may* work, I'd stick with something more like the transmission bolts in the engine - which in my experience are usually grade 5 for SAE and class 8.8 for metric. . . . but I'm certain some will still argue the point. * the information above is pretty wide-spread from multiple manufacturers because the grades are standards. If you feel different about the torque information, do look it up. ** also note: just because a grade 5 3/8 bolt can be torqued to 23 ft. lbs does not mean it SHOULD be... there are other factors. What it does mean is that you should NOT torque it more than 23 ft. lbs. - but you can :)
Just watching as the picker was lowered I could see the motor “bounce”. That tells me that the stand neck is stressed. I could see myself getting focussed on torquing on something and forgetting where the stress on the stand is going. Cheap stands are what they are. Thank you for posting this video. I hope your father in law got his stand back in good shape.
I agree those cheap stands are okay for holding an engine in a static position, but nothing more. I prefer the HD stands for doing any serious engine work. Only takes one bad weld or invisible stress crack to cripple you for life. Thank you for commenting!
you might like this one ua-cam.com/video/AvD2XEAANPE/v-deo.html There is only bounce in it because it is a 700kg engine on a 450kg rated engine stand. The flex was actually in the bottom rail connecting the front to back wheels. The engine was also a little top heavy as we didn't know where the centre of the weight was. That is why the adaptor plate was slotted for adjustment.
Make sure you tighten that top bolt on the engine stand to , I almost rotated my engine because the bolt wasn't tight enough. I was thinking of drilling a hole for a pin on top to make sure it doesn't move.
I used grade 10, I’d definitely have to recommend them. If messing up threads with too hard of a bolt or clearance is ever an issue that’s the only reason I’d say to stop at any certain grade. For me I even bent a Grade 10 once when a mishap happened and Grade 8 may have snapped.
Bro... wtf are you talking about? Grade 10 is a metric nut grade. I assume you mean Metric 10.9 which is nearly an exact strength equivalent to SAE Grade 8... And being this is a Small Block Chevy you'll be using SAE bolts... which will be Grade 5, or Grade 8. Nice attempt at sounding "next level" though. I'm sure some people out there bought it...
Why anybody uses a 3 leg stand is beyond me. You're hanging thousands of engine dollars on a tippy $40 stand. Even the 4 leg has significant flex in the upright. I use it as a transmission holder. With a coupon the HF 2T stand (6 wheels and braced upright) is about $115. Head plate is twice as thick and the arms are bars not flat plates. The issue is dynamic loading, like when you move the engine or work on it. Just because the stand can take a static load doesn't mean it works for added dynamic loading. I also always replace the chineseum bolts with true Gr 8 hardware, don't care what numbers they've put on them. They are basically hardware bolts. A stand is the wrong place to scrimp.
How deep do the bolts go into the block? How long are the securing bolts technically? I trip out on how little of the bolt treads support it on the engine stand
Do you need to buy a specific bolt for a 5.3 vortec V8 to mount the bolts from the engine stand to the back of the engine? I don’t know where to look🤷🏾♂️
It's been a while but I remember they are 3/8-16. Length is determined by the stand you have. Measure the ears on the stand and add 1/2'' for your overall length. Be sure to pick up some extra washers for spacers. Good luck.
It's been a while but I remember they are 3/8-16. Length is determined by the stand you have. Measure the ears on the stand and add 1/2'' for your overall length. Be sure to pick up some extra washers for spacers. Good luck.
As others have said, this is a great little video. Mounting to an engine stand is only 'obvious' if you've done it before. Thank you for posting. BTW, is there a reason you left the flywheel on? Was this mounting only for demo purposes?
this video should be included with every engine stand manual. thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for your vid. I’m about to mount a 350 long block on a four castor stand. Without having seen it done I was a bit concerned but now I feel confident. Getting the balance point will be important for when I rotate the engine.
As already stated, good point to bring up balancing the engine if more than just the bare block. Didn't get that from a couple other videos I watched. I skipped the 3 prong stand because of stability. Getting ready to dive into an engine rebuild and your video was valuable for safety reasons.
Just bought my first engine stand, thanks for all the information!
Great video. I wish I'd found it BEFORE I put my RAV4 engine on the Harbor Freight (Pittsburg) stand. Not knowing what you showed, I spent forever lining up the engine with the stand-instead of bolting the plate to the engine THEN inserting the plate into the stand. Jeez! Coulda saved so much work and dangerous fighting with a dangling engine.
You are so right about not centering it on the crankshaft. Mine is way off-balance. It's safely locked in an upright position for now but there's no way to rotate it by hand. After watching your video, I may redo the whole process. Thanks for putting this out there.
If I’m not removing the heads, I usually keep the engine hoist attached. Not supporting any weight, just there as a backup.
thank you for taking the time to do this.
Literally saved my life on this thanks!
I'm glad I found this video I just bought my first engine stand and this was all the info I was looking for. I'm fixing to go through a 305 Chevy thank you for this video
You're welcome! Happy wrenching.
Excellent video ! No BS just Tips of why to or why not to. Thank you!
I appreciate that!
Great video. Going to do this for the first time today on a 389
IF you break a grade 5 bolt that fits the transmission mount holes on an engine stand properly attached to the transmission mount holes, either the bolt is defective or damaged or you're doing something wrong. Grade 8 is not that much more expensive, and again, if you snap a grade 8 bolt on an engine stand . . .
Here's 'the science':
Grade 2 3/8 bolt coarse thread proof load is 4250 lbs (per bolt)
Grade 5 3/8 bolt coarse thread proof load is 6600 lbs (per bolt)
Grade 8 3/8 bolt coarse thread proof load is 9300 lbs (per bolt)
The grade argument is relevant if you're using undersized bolts or over-torqueing the bolts. If you're just starting in mechanic work, google "torque chart", and use a torque wrench to get a feel for what is proper.
Grade 2 3/8 bolt coarse thread recommended torque 15 ft. lbs
Grade 5 3/8 bolt coarse thread recommended torque 23 ft. lbs
Grade 8 3/8 bolt coarse thread recommended torque 33 ft. lbs.
A reasonably strong person can easily over-torque a grade 5 3/8 bolts with a 1/2 inch ratchet.
Sheer strength is not an ASTM specification, but sheer strength is probably not relevant for mounting the engine on an this type of stand. That said, according to multiple sources, shear strength of alloy steel is approximately 60% of its ultimate tensile strength. For a grade 2 3/8 bolt, the tensile strength (not proof load) is 5750 lbs. Sheer strength of a grade 2 3/8 bolt can be assumed to be about 3,450. However, the bolts are not in sheer on the engine stand under normal conditions.
Calculating the stress on the bolts requires thinking about the leverage of the engine sticking out past the bolt, and that is more complex than a UA-cam comment. While a grade 2 bolt *may* work, I'd stick with something more like the transmission bolts in the engine - which in my experience are usually grade 5 for SAE and class 8.8 for metric.
. . . but I'm certain some will still argue the point.
* the information above is pretty wide-spread from multiple manufacturers because the grades are standards. If you feel different about the torque information, do look it up.
** also note: just because a grade 5 3/8 bolt can be torqued to 23 ft. lbs does not mean it SHOULD be... there are other factors. What it does mean is that you should NOT torque it more than 23 ft. lbs. - but you can :)
Good info....I never knew this. I recently turned over my Big Block and it threw me across my garage!
Perfect for me sir, Thank you for your time
Great advice. Real helpful.
Thx , excellent video. Great safety tips!
Thanks for mentioning where to center the mount, that's very important information to have.
Yes sir, I learned the hard way one time. Pretty scary when one takes a hard roll on the stand.
Throwing a vortec in my el camino, this will be my first engine build and this video was deginitely helpful.
Right on, good luck buddy!
Great video!
Yes sir helped a lot fixing to pull mine it's been a while
Just watching as the picker was lowered I could see the motor “bounce”. That tells me that the stand neck is stressed. I could see myself getting focussed on torquing on something and forgetting where the stress on the stand is going. Cheap stands are what they are. Thank you for posting this video. I hope your father in law got his stand back in good shape.
I agree those cheap stands are okay for holding an engine in a static position, but nothing more. I prefer the HD stands for doing any serious engine work. Only takes one bad weld or invisible stress crack to cripple you for life. Thank you for commenting!
you might like this one ua-cam.com/video/AvD2XEAANPE/v-deo.html
There is only bounce in it because it is a 700kg engine on a 450kg rated engine stand. The flex was actually in the bottom rail connecting the front to back wheels. The engine was also a little top heavy as we didn't know where the centre of the weight was. That is why the adaptor plate was slotted for adjustment.
Thank you for sharing!
Well done good Sir.
Very helpful thank you
Thank!!! New subscriber!!!🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thanks for the info, I'm about to pull an engine for the first time
Good luck!
Super helpful!
Thank you great video perfect awesome mine so not right you made it right
Make sure you tighten that top bolt on the engine stand to , I almost rotated my engine because the bolt wasn't tight enough. I was thinking of drilling a hole for a pin on top to make sure it doesn't move.
I used grade 10, I’d definitely have to recommend them. If messing up threads with too hard of a bolt or clearance is ever an issue that’s the only reason I’d say to stop at any certain grade.
For me I even bent a Grade 10 once when a mishap happened and Grade 8 may have snapped.
Bro... wtf are you talking about? Grade 10 is a metric nut grade. I assume you mean Metric 10.9 which is nearly an exact strength equivalent to SAE Grade 8...
And being this is a Small Block Chevy you'll be using SAE bolts... which will be Grade 5, or Grade 8.
Nice attempt at sounding "next level" though. I'm sure some people out there bought it...
Why anybody uses a 3 leg stand is beyond me. You're hanging thousands of engine dollars on a tippy $40 stand.
Even the 4 leg has significant flex in the upright. I use it as a transmission holder.
With a coupon the HF 2T stand (6 wheels and braced upright) is about $115. Head plate is twice as thick and the arms are bars not flat plates.
The issue is dynamic loading, like when you move the engine or work on it. Just because the stand can take a static load doesn't mean it works for added dynamic loading.
I also always replace the chineseum bolts with true Gr 8 hardware, don't care what numbers they've put on them. They are basically hardware bolts.
A stand is the wrong place to scrimp.
Well said and thanks.
What size bolt to mount it up on there
What kind of bolts are you using on that?
you have the mount backwards the top of the mount with the straight lines it supose to be at the bottom of the engine not the top...
Hopefully you made video of doin or pan an rear main like to see it
How deep do the bolts go into the block? How long are the securing bolts technically? I trip out on how little of the bolt treads support it on the engine stand
They only go in about 1/2''. I know it seems like it should be more but if you get grade 8 bolts it will be fine.
Its crazy you only have 1 chain to hold all that weight
Exelente
Thank you.
Do you need to buy a specific bolt for a 5.3 vortec V8 to mount the bolts from the engine stand to the back of the engine? I don’t know where to look🤷🏾♂️
It's been a while but I remember they are 3/8-16. Length is determined by the stand you have. Measure the ears on the stand and add 1/2'' for your overall length. Be sure to pick up some extra washers for spacers. Good luck.
The Hands On Channel thanks and I bought the same stand as you, but mine has 4 wheels instead of 3
Where can I find those bolts and what size are they?? And length?
It's been a while but I remember they are 3/8-16. Length is determined by the stand you have. Measure the ears on the stand and add 1/2'' for your overall length. Be sure to pick up some extra washers for spacers. Good luck.
Where did you get the bolts to connect the engine stand spider to your engine?
I got them at a local hardware store. You may want to check fastenall if you have one in your area.
@@TheHandsOnChannel thanks! I do have a Fastenal. I wasn't sure if they sold piece parts. Thought they only did bulk parts. I will check.
Generators are one of th most useful piece. Of machines during a black out heat. Water pump lights any thing electrical
I think you posted this on the wrong video, but I agree.
You said you use 3 inches. I was thinking 2.5 how much do these bolts go into the block? I need to move my 383 from a crate to a stand.
They only go in about a 1/2''.
Spin that thing
As others have said, this is a great little video. Mounting to an engine stand is only 'obvious' if you've done it before. Thank you for posting. BTW, is there a reason you left the flywheel on? Was this mounting only for demo purposes?
I left it on so I could use it to turn the engine over with a pry bar.
What were the sizes of bolts you use to put into the block to connect to the stand?
3/8 - 16 x 3''
@@TheHandsOnChannel Thank you!
It is wise to be cautious with Chinesium. If yours has rubber wheels, replace them with steel. Must safer.
Course or fine threaded bolts?
Coarse
I want to ask how much can i have that Engine stand
It cost me about a bill. Well worth it though.
What’s the weight rate on that stand?
I think it's a half ton.
What bolts did you use?
3/8 - 16 x 3''
3 wheel stands make me nervous.
I just tried to put my Larin engine stand on my Big Block Mopar and wouldn't you know it......... the Spider is not big enough!
I'd not trust that stand for that engine. Just sayin'.
7 minutes too long.