I use delayed shutter release of 2 seconds instead of using a remote shutter release button. :) Also focus with aperture between f/8 and f/11 so that everything beyond 4 feet in a ultra wide angle lens is in razor sharp focus.
Tips worth a watch, thank you for sharing them. Just to add on, the white balance plays an important role to keep your Colors accurate and To avoid shake you can always keep a shot on timer incase of no remote. 😊 And I think the apature should be between 7 to 10 for wider focus and sharp images hence the use of tripod.
The statement of zooming in to focus with the lens and then zoom back out will not hold true to some lenses as the focus point will be different from different focal lengths.
Yes. Not all photography lens are parafocal unlike Cine lenses which are required to be one. That is why digitally magnifying thru the view finder instead of magnifying by zooming in the lens is used when using a DSLR. Using the digital zoom in the viewfinder works even when using zoom lenses. I wonder why he thinks it only works with prime lenses?
The widest aperture doesn't matter as you will Always use f14 or 16, which is no problem regarding shutter speeds, as you use a tripod and the subject doesn't move
johan bauwens - use the sharpest aperture setting for your lens, wide open isn’t sharp, and stopping right down to f16 has its own issues. F8 is usually the sharpest aperture setting for most lenses. Stopping right down will undoubtably start showing any tiny specs of dust on your sensor and will leave you post processing for days! What the video doesn’t mention is opening up to your fastest aperture will limit your depth of field (granted it is less important at these focal lengths, but a bigger problem is vignetting (darker corners) especially on zoom lenses! As the title was about sharpness it should have told you to find the sharpest aperture for your lens, there is a sweat spot for sharpness of any lens.
I work with 3D softwares and i need to learn this stuff to get as much of realism as possible out of my renders, and its really funny to see that i have to add chromatic aberration and lens distortion otherwise it looks super fake
That's a great question, are you asking that for a mirroless or DSLR camera? I would say that you guess is probably right, in the sense that Silent Shooting should help reduce camera shake from any mechanics that fire when the shutter is released (though I can't tell that with certainty, as we don't have a camera that offers Silent Shooting Mode to test that at the moment). Note that some camera functions may be disabled when Silent Shooting is on. On a Sony A7R III, for instance, exposure bracketing is disabled with Silent Shooting, while AEB is very useful for interiors whenever there are windows with light coming through them.
Well explained video however can I comment on a few points on the video. The focal length indicated on the lens was 16mm to 35mm zoom lens, not a 16mm prime (just in case begginers why it was printed 16-35). A fast lens is not that important because you should be using a tripod in Architectual Photography. Fast lenses usually matter when shooting portraits (for shallow depth of field) or in wedding or strèet photography. Using wide aperatures such as f1.8 has a very narrow depth of field for architectual shots. I wouldnt shoot any wider than f8. When you focus with a wide lens, focus on the hyperfocus distance. "Measure (or estimate) the distance to the nearest foreground element you want in focus, and then double that distance." There are several otger methods out there to measure the distance but I think that is the most practical. It doesnt matter if you are using a prime lens or a zoom lens, both will work using the digital zoom button. In fact using the zoom lens to zoom in, focus then zoom out will only work if your lens is parafocal. Meaning it wont change it's focus point when you zoom out. Not all photography zoom lenses are parafocal. Only Cine lenses are all parafocal. More power to you and keep making videos.
Thank you for the tips. For those who don't want to buy a remote you can simply use the built in timer on your camera.
Good tip. I wish my Sony a was capable of using the timer for HDR shots as well
@@ultimaterealestatemedia Or you can use your camera's built-in wi-fi or bluetooth to connect to either a tablet or phone for taking shots.
Steve Kimble S. I use that feature, but I don’t think it works for HDR though. (I could be wrong, it’s been a while since I’ve shot with the 6000
@@ultimaterealestatemedia you mean the automatic 3 stop exposure? You can.
I use delayed shutter release of 2 seconds instead of using a remote shutter release button. :) Also focus with aperture between f/8 and f/11 so that everything beyond 4 feet in a ultra wide angle lens is in razor sharp focus.
Very Helpful! Thank you for posting.
Tips worth a watch, thank you for sharing them. Just to add on, the white balance plays an important role to keep your Colors accurate and To avoid shake you can always keep a shot on timer incase of no remote. 😊 And I think the apature should be between 7 to 10 for wider focus and sharp images hence the use of tripod.
very clearly explained - many thanks
Great video... very helpful... Merci..
Very clearly stated and shown, thank you.
The statement of zooming in to focus with the lens and then zoom back out will not hold true to some lenses as the focus point will be different from different focal lengths.
true. only parafocal lens have the focus on the same point throughout the zoom range.
Yes. Not all photography lens are parafocal unlike Cine lenses which are required to be one. That is why digitally magnifying thru the view finder instead of magnifying by zooming in the lens is used when using a DSLR. Using the digital zoom in the viewfinder works even when using zoom lenses. I wonder why he thinks it only works with prime lenses?
The widest aperture doesn't matter as you will Always use f14 or 16, which is no problem regarding shutter speeds, as you use a tripod and the subject doesn't move
Probably a good idea to use a wider aperture (e.g. f7.1) if using flash speed lights
johan bauwens - use the sharpest aperture setting for your lens, wide open isn’t sharp, and stopping right down to f16 has its own issues. F8 is usually the sharpest aperture setting for most lenses. Stopping right down will undoubtably start showing any tiny specs of dust on your sensor and will leave you post processing for days! What the video doesn’t mention is opening up to your fastest aperture will limit your depth of field (granted it is less important at these focal lengths, but a bigger problem is vignetting (darker corners) especially on zoom lenses! As the title was about sharpness it should have told you to find the sharpest aperture for your lens, there is a sweat spot for sharpness of any lens.
I work with 3D softwares and i need to learn this stuff to get as much of realism as possible out of my renders, and its really funny to see that i have to add chromatic aberration and lens distortion otherwise it looks super fake
That's true, in CG we add things to the image that photographers in real-world photos try to avoid. Happy rendering!
What about silent mode? Guess it similar to mirror lock up.
That's a great question, are you asking that for a mirroless or DSLR camera? I would say that you guess is probably right, in the sense that Silent Shooting should help reduce camera shake from any mechanics that fire when the shutter is released (though I can't tell that with certainty, as we don't have a camera that offers Silent Shooting Mode to test that at the moment).
Note that some camera functions may be disabled when Silent Shooting is on. On a Sony A7R III, for instance, exposure bracketing is disabled with Silent Shooting, while AEB is very useful for interiors whenever there are windows with light coming through them.
Really sounds like Mark Galer :D
Some very bad advices, here... like the one of zooming while focussing. The focus changes across the focal length range is almost all the zoom lenses.
Yeah, that's bad advice. Neither is the whole room going to be in focus at such a large aperture.
unless your lens is parfocal
Falling lines, blown out highlights and camera tilted to the right... That are just 3 major fails on the opening picture...
Thank you for sharing your opinion. We appreciate it!
Well explained video however can I comment on a few points on the video.
The focal length indicated on the lens was 16mm to 35mm zoom lens, not a 16mm prime (just in case begginers why it was printed 16-35).
A fast lens is not that important because you should be using a tripod in Architectual Photography. Fast lenses usually matter when shooting portraits (for shallow depth of field) or in wedding or strèet photography. Using wide aperatures such as f1.8 has a very narrow depth of field for architectual shots. I wouldnt shoot any wider than f8.
When you focus with a wide lens, focus on the hyperfocus distance. "Measure (or estimate) the distance to the nearest foreground element you want in focus, and then double that distance." There are several otger methods out there to measure the distance but I think that is the most practical.
It doesnt matter if you are using a prime lens or a zoom lens, both will work using the digital zoom button. In fact using the zoom lens to zoom in, focus then zoom out will only work if your lens is parafocal. Meaning it wont change it's focus point when you zoom out. Not all photography zoom lenses are parafocal. Only Cine lenses are all parafocal.
More power to you and keep making videos.