Thanks for watching Tom. I’m sending a few more bikes to the Philippines so I will be able to give a few away when I get there. Looking forward to riding bikes with friends in the Philippines
I had a burly Aluminum hardtail frame in Large,bought it on the web but it was a little on the small side when riding it with the seat post all the way up,as I commuted with it also,due to riding it with the seat post at it fully extended position I crackedt the frame just under the seat tube clamp,so I thought never again with aluminum,so now I just got my Ragley Blue Pig 4130 Chromo at half price new,in XL,received my new FOX 36grip two 2023 forks today,can't wait to build it all up,we are in our spring in OZ right now,just waiting on the stem.
Thanks for the video. Very interesting. I am planning on getting an Esker frame and building up a hardtail. I ride steel gravel and road bikes. Just a question about your experience with sizing. I've looked at the geo charts and I am only 5'7" tall and fall right between sizes (S & M). Wondering if you have any opinion on how Esker frames feel from that perspective. Do you prefer running a longer or shorter stem on their bikes? Would love your feedback.
Great question! I'm 5'6" and I choose small frames (size down) since we are in-between according to most sizing charts. I run a 50mm stem on my MTN bikes, including my custom Seven Sola. This allows for the shorter reach,TT length and since I'm only using a 130 travel fork max. A shorter 35-40mm stem isn't as critical as a 150 or 160mm fork. So that works for me. I hope this helps
Thanks so much for your information. I see the Esker Japhy frames on sale but small size only. I just wasn't sure about how they would fit me. My geo numbers on my 2018 Santa Cruz Hightower seem a bit more stretched out.
Hi, I would like to buy a Hayduke 2023 model. And I'm not sure about the size. I'm tall 6'1 It's between size S4 and S5. Would you recommend which size would be better for me? Thank you
I think it depends on your riding style and what kinds trails you ride. A longer S5 frame will plow down rough trails and feel more stable. A slightly shorter S4 will be a little more agile and slightly easier on tight switchbacks. Of course you dial in your cockpit by adjusting your saddle fore and aft plus by changing the stem length and handlebars size and rise. I hope that helps
@@radekcecko69 In that case I would recommend the S5. It will feel slightly more stable and have slightly more space for a complete frame pack. You can use a shorter 40mm stem and push your saddle more forward on the rails if the reach is long for you.
Ti frames are nice because they are just so durable and industrial looking. Plus,never need painting and are scratch proof because you can just buff out any scratches. So I would recommend Ti for those values. I would also suggest that many of the inexpensive Ti frames are not going to have the nice high quality tubing. Sure they may say double butted but that might just be the main triangle and the double butted tubing is not thin drawn throughout the tubing so it is pretty much the same as straight gauge with the addition thickness at the welds. Anyway, my point is getting a Ti frame is not necessary going to be as nice as a quad butted or smaller frame makers steel frame.
@@ognyc6522 very nice frames indeed. My steel is a 91 rocky hammer, 92 specialized hardrock, 97 Kona Caldera , 98 Brodie Quantum , 80's Tech Nova [not built] , 91 GT Karakoram,[not built] and a swell 94 KHS Montana pro triple butted,yet a 14 inch frame and 1 inch steerer. I would trade a few for a swell 853 frame though. lol
@@ognyc6522 both are really amazing steel frames. Let’s face reality,British UK and Italian frame builders have long relationships with the high end steel tubing companies such as Reynolds and some of the other unknown companies that have been fabricating Chromoly tubing for many decades. I really would love to build up the Stanton UK Slackline, Ironstone.
The Hayduke geo is more modern. I’m not sure how much you raked out the Unit with the suspension fork but I have a 34Fox130 and love it. Since the Unit X geo is made around a rigid fork, it will change its orientation when propped up by a long fork.
My only problem with steel is corrosion in places with winter and salt on roads. Also titanium is less likely to scratch and if it does you can just get a green felt washing pad and polish it to make look good
I’ve owned and still own a few Ti frames. 100% agree that Ti will resist corrosion and any scratches can easily be removed. But it’s hard to deny that steel is an incredibly value and has great ride quality.
Steel really rusts and is heavy. None of the name brand bike makers sell steel bikes. There is a reason for that. It isn't economic. Steel bikes are the cheapest bikes to make. Its performance. Steel riding better than hydroformed Aluminum or carbon is a myth. Sorry you have your belief system. There are flat earthers too.
95% of bikes here in the Netherlands are made of steel. They stay outside 365 days per year. And the can take it. Carbon is light, but fragile. Carbon frames are disposables. Many get replaced even during warranty period.
Carbon has a short shelf life as it's basically plastic that can delaminate over time as it's also not very durable as just a single deep scratch can ruin a frame. Aluminum also has a shelf life as it oxidizes/ thins out over time and loses structural rigidity the more you ride it , aluminum is also very stiff and uncomfortable to ride on long rides as you can ride over a nickel and feel it. People are obsessed with weight as they're brainwashed by the bike industry having everyone think they need the lightest bike to " win the race " . The fact is 98% of riders are not racing time trials as an extra 2-3 pounds of weight doesn't matter at all. Also ,a little surface rust can be easily dealt with as I've never seen a steel bike rot away unless its been sitting outdoors for 30 years.
Now that bike, Japhy is my ideal dream Hard Tail MTB. Looking forward to owning one like that one .
As always a fantastic video i learn mote about bikes from you than anyone keep it up doug..
Thanks for watching Tom. I’m sending a few more bikes to the Philippines so I will be able to give a few away when I get there. Looking forward to riding bikes with friends in the Philippines
I love my 853 steel Spot Rocker. Absolutely amazing ride feel!
That’s a really nice frame. Definitely more detail to design and more modern geo to than XC steel frames
I had a burly Aluminum hardtail frame in Large,bought it on the web but it was a little on the small side when riding it with the seat post all the way up,as I commuted with it also,due to riding it with the seat post at it fully extended position I crackedt the frame just under the seat tube clamp,so I thought never again with aluminum,so now I just got my Ragley Blue Pig 4130 Chromo at half price new,in XL,received my new FOX 36grip two 2023 forks today,can't wait to build it all up,we are in our spring in OZ right now,just waiting on the stem.
Ragley makes some amazing frames. That steel Blue Pig is super nice long, slack and lower Geo!
I have the same red Hayduke. I love it.
Perfect Geo for where I mostly ride. My paint is pretty scratched up now but Esker has nice color ways. This red color is one of my favorites.
@@hardmtnbiker my paint still looks new minus some small nicks around the dropout corners. I’ll probably keep the bike forever.
Thanks for the video. Very interesting. I am planning on getting an Esker frame and building up a hardtail. I ride steel gravel and road bikes. Just a question about your experience with sizing. I've looked at the geo charts and I am only 5'7" tall and fall right between sizes (S & M). Wondering if you have any opinion on how Esker frames feel from that perspective. Do you prefer running a longer or shorter stem on their bikes? Would love your feedback.
Great question! I'm 5'6" and I choose small frames (size down) since we are in-between according to most sizing charts. I run a 50mm stem on my MTN bikes, including my custom Seven Sola. This allows for the shorter reach,TT length and since I'm only using a 130 travel fork max. A shorter 35-40mm stem isn't as critical as a 150 or 160mm fork. So that works for me. I hope this helps
Thanks so much for your information. I see the Esker Japhy frames on sale but small size only. I just wasn't sure about how they would fit me. My geo numbers on my 2018 Santa Cruz Hightower seem a bit more stretched out.
Aluminum banshee paradox v3 ❤
Great frame with proper geometry for riding steep descents!
Hi, I would like to buy a Hayduke 2023 model. And I'm not sure about the size. I'm tall 6'1 It's between size S4 and S5. Would you recommend which size would be better for me? Thank you
I think it depends on your riding style and what kinds trails you ride.
A longer S5 frame will plow down rough trails and feel more stable. A slightly shorter S4 will be a little more agile and slightly easier on tight switchbacks. Of course you dial in your cockpit by adjusting your saddle fore and aft plus by changing the stem length and handlebars size and rise.
I hope that helps
@@hardmtnbiker Thank you for answer. I want to buy a bike for a 2-month bikepacking trip. Through Washington and then to the Mexican border.
@@radekcecko69 In that case I would recommend the S5. It will feel slightly more stable and have slightly more space for a complete frame pack. You can use a shorter 40mm stem and push your saddle more forward on the rails if the reach is long for you.
@@hardmtnbiker Thank you for your opinion 👍 🇨🇿
Great video. All of my rides are steel or aluminum hardtails. Wish i had a ti frame too though.
Ti frames are nice because they are just so durable and industrial looking. Plus,never need painting and are scratch proof because you can just buff out any scratches. So I would recommend Ti for those values.
I would also suggest that many of the inexpensive Ti frames are not going to have the nice high quality tubing. Sure they may say double butted but that might just be the main triangle and the double butted tubing is not thin drawn throughout the tubing so it is pretty much the same as straight gauge with the addition thickness at the welds. Anyway, my point is getting a Ti frame is not necessary going to be as nice as a quad butted or smaller frame makers steel frame.
@@hardmtnbiker thank you for that very informative reply. cheers !
Have 3 British steel hardtails, Stanton Sherpa 853,4130 and a Cotic bfemax with downtube 853. Big difference with all 3.
@@ognyc6522 very nice frames indeed. My steel is a 91 rocky hammer, 92 specialized hardrock, 97 Kona Caldera , 98 Brodie Quantum , 80's Tech Nova [not built] , 91 GT Karakoram,[not built] and a swell 94 KHS Montana pro triple butted,yet a 14 inch frame and 1 inch steerer. I would trade a few for a swell 853 frame though. lol
@@ognyc6522 both are really amazing steel frames. Let’s face reality,British UK and Italian frame builders have long relationships with the high end steel tubing companies such as Reynolds and some of the other unknown companies that have been fabricating Chromoly tubing for many decades. I really would love to build up the Stanton UK Slackline, Ironstone.
Does something about steel is it weighs more.
Solid video...
How do you compare kona unit x with non-rigid fork to esker hayduke? is there really noticeable diference in ride quality or in some other factors ?
The Hayduke geo is more modern. I’m not sure how much you raked out the Unit with the suspension fork but I have a 34Fox130 and love it.
Since the Unit X geo is made around a rigid fork, it will change its orientation when propped up by a long fork.
2011 Transition TransAM 26" single speed hardtail.
2022 Kona Unit rigid single speed.
Steel is definitely real.
Agreed! Kona always has a great package deal with that Kona Unit and Honzo.
What size bikes a in the video?
smalls
My only problem with steel is corrosion in places with winter and salt on roads. Also titanium is less likely to scratch and if it does you can just get a green felt washing pad and polish it to make look good
I’ve owned and still own a few Ti frames. 100% agree that Ti will resist corrosion and any scratches can easily be removed. But it’s hard to deny that steel is an incredibly value and has great ride quality.
@hardmtnbiker yup, it's the poor man's Titanium.
Your husky looks like an attention hog… too cute!
Thanks, he’s so smart and hopefully be able to join some of my winter Mtn bike rides
Steel really rusts and is heavy. None of the name brand bike makers sell steel bikes. There is a reason for that. It isn't economic. Steel bikes are the cheapest bikes to make. Its performance. Steel riding better than hydroformed Aluminum or carbon is a myth.
Sorry you have your belief system. There are flat earthers too.
95% of bikes here in the Netherlands are made of steel. They stay outside 365 days per year. And the can take it. Carbon is light, but fragile. Carbon frames are disposables. Many get replaced even during warranty period.
Carbon has a short shelf life as it's basically plastic that can delaminate over time as it's also not very durable as just a single deep scratch can ruin a frame. Aluminum also has a shelf life as it oxidizes/ thins out over time and loses structural rigidity the more you ride it , aluminum is also very stiff and uncomfortable to ride on long rides as you can ride over a nickel and feel it. People are obsessed with weight as they're brainwashed by the bike industry having everyone think they need the lightest bike to " win the race " . The fact is 98% of riders are not racing time trials as an extra 2-3 pounds of weight doesn't matter at all.
Also ,a little surface rust can be easily dealt with as I've never seen a steel bike rot away unless its been sitting outdoors for 30 years.