1996 - 2000 Toyota Rav4 Oil Pan Gasket Reseal or Oil Pan Replacement
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- Опубліковано 21 кві 2019
- This video shows how to reseal the oil pan gasket on first generation Rav4's (2000 and older), which are the same steps as replacing the oil pan.
Thanks for watching. Good luck with your repair! - Авто та транспорт
Please double-check any gasket numbers shown in the video before you buy yours because there is some confusion as to the exact part numbers! Thanks to some help over at rav4world.com, I now think that the exhaust gasket which I couldn't find a part# for is Toyota #17451-0D030, which Fel-pro makes as 61124. Also, commentor Salman Ahmed says that the Felpro replacement for Toyota #90080-43036 is Felpro 61040, not Felpro 23591 (see 03:38).
Here is the video for the full timing belt job, which includes the repair for that oil leak:
ua-cam.com/video/TbOr7gvqSqc/v-deo.html
Thanks for watching, and good luck with your repair!
Which gasket did you have a problem finding? I had a hard time finding one of them. I think it was flex pipe to rear cat that was tough to find. I have a fel pro part number somewhere...
@@averywarenski6847 Thanks for the comment -- you can see the gasket in the FSM diagram at 22:33. I couldn't get a good part # when I was doing the repair, so I re-used the old gasket (and I was lucky and didn't have an exhaust leak). After some conversation over at rav4world, we are now thinking that the gasket might be Toyota #17451-0D030, which is Fel-Pro 61124.
I LOVE this -- I don't know your name, but want to thank you. I really appreciate your time, patience, research and delivery. You made hundreds of Rav4 owners save a lot of everything.. and helps eliminate mechanic shops that will steal when they think you don't know. SUPER SUPER thank you!!!
Thank you, that's very kind! I make these videos to help us all learn about our Rav4's so that we can all save some money, and also we can gain confidence in car repairs. I'm so glad the video was helpful for you -- good luck!
Dear L35 in Colorado. You are an absolute LIFE SAVER. I have removed my cylinder head and it's at the engine rebuilders as I type and now you have shown me how to remove the oil pan so that I can attempt to remove the pistons so that they can be honed and re-ringed. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you. "It can be done"
You're a lifesaver. Made a mistake and now I am stuck doing the oil pan.
Thank you for these videos. Life saving and empowering mechanical education!!
You have a way to explain everything perfect. Thank you very much for this video, it helped me a lot.
Thank you -- I'm so glad it helped! :)
Good job! I enjoyed watching your video. I liked that you took the time to explain the small details. Thanks!
Thank you -- good luck your repair!
Thanks so much! You have no idea how much this helped, my oil pump is definately leaking! Keep up the videos. All the part numbers and everything are very nice aswell! Keep making Rav4 videos!
I'm so glad it helped! Here is my timing belt video which shows the oil pump leak repair:
ua-cam.com/video/TbOr7gvqSqc/v-deo.html
Good luck!
Quality walk-thru vid and I like the quick references for part numbers, etc.
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
I just posted a video of this same Rav4 getting a CV axle re-boot. Check the channel for other Rav4 videos, if you need to see some other DIY's : )
A small 1/4” drive socket wrench with a 10mm socket can get that tricky corner bolt. Just took mine down and had success cracking it loose with that setup. Love your videos - I followed you through the timing belt/water pump and seals job, along with the cv seals and radiator removal videos. You’re a lifesaver. Thank you!
Thanks for sharing that tip! I'm so glad the videos are helpful : ) Thanks for watching!
Impressively great how-to video & photography. Thank you.
Thanks for watching! : )
Great video. Love your attention to detail.
Thank you -- good luck!
Sweet! Thank you for this excellent video. it's just what I needed.
Thanks for the comment, and good luck!
Great Videos ! Please show us "Fuel Injectors Replacement" for 1997 - 2001 Camry. Thanks
I love like lady! She is so thorough and helpful! I've been watching her vids and learn a lot, even though I don't own any of the cars she shows in her vids, but the concepts are the same. For example, I watch her VVTI oil controllers on the Toyota Corolla. Those controllers on the Lexus are pretty much the ones on the 2007 Lexus RX350 and the RX450h, and they are expensive for Lexus cars. Instead of replacing the oil controllers, if still working, replace the o-ring!
Thanks for adding your tips, and thanks for watching! : )
Your videos are the best!!
Thanks, and thanks for watching! : )
Thank you so much. I thought I had a oil pan leak and was going to fix that. After seeing your video I realized that was exactly my problem. Wasn't cheap but but could have been worse. I have a 97 5 door manual with 5 speed. I believe I have the torsen limited slip. Haven't opened it but it does have the number 2 on it. You are simply amazing. I'm waiting to see more vids on your Rav. Thanks again Wonder Woman. 🙏😁
Wow, I'm so glad the video helped! Yes, the oil leak looks just like a pan gasket leak. Great job catching it and sorting it out!
@@L35inColorado I look forward to following more of your work even If it is not a vehicle I don't have. I am so impressed it feels like I'm texting with a professor. 😊
Thank you for making this video
Thank you for watching! : )
Awesome CONCISE video! Kudos for the way you take the stills in the video with annotations and even take the time to give reference points to let the viewer understand the camera angle if it might be confusing- I can tell lots of planning/thought went into the video. I am looking into purchasing a '97 Rav4 with lots of miles 200k but for cheap (I think?) and with a manual, Its $1600, but SUPER clean. Just want a daily commuter that I won't worry too much about but the seller listed the oil pan leak which thanks to your video means it may be more than just the pan. (but I see you made that video too) Anyway Thanks, and do you think that's a fair price for what may be all the work involved with that leak (I don't know Rav4 values all that well but I'm a Toyota reliability fan)
Thanks for the kind comments! If the engine and transmission maintenance has been kept up and the body is good (glass is good, no leaks, clean title, no rust, good paint, etc), $1600 is not a bad price. In my area, a Rav4 like that would probably go for about $1400 (but there are lots of Ravs in Colorado). Be sure to have a good look at the ball joints, control arms, sway bar links, CV axles, and all those suspension parts that have rubber boots or bushings on them, because if they are original, they will be 22 years old and might need replacing soon. I had to replace the ball joints on the '98 you see in the video last year because the rubber split and they were leaking. Easy job, doesn't cost too much, but it is something to look for. It is just from being 20+ years old!
The timing belt replacement on the '96 - '97 is every 60K miles (90K on the '98 - '00), so if the timing belt hasn't been done lately, you'll probably need to do that eventually (I have a full video on that, if you need it):
ua-cam.com/video/TbOr7gvqSqc/v-deo.html
The oil leak is probably not from the oil pan -- as I mention in the video, the oil pump housing gasket REALLY looks like a pan gasket leak, and it sometimes fools people.
The ignition system on the '96 - '97 is a little different than the '98 you see here: the '96 - '97 has a distributor. I mention this because sometimes there is an oil leak than can happen where the distributor fits to the head (distributor o-ring): it is something to look at when you're inspecting. Sometimes that oil ends up all over. Again, easy fix -- here is a good video on it:
ua-cam.com/video/Sp1e4r5cpzQ/v-deo.html
Another thing I'd check is the power steering fluid reservoir: make sure it is full and ask the owner if they have had to add any. There is a pinion seal on the top of the rack that sometimes fails after about 15 years (not super common, but it happens -- kinda hit or miss). It is not a difficult fix, but it is something I always check when looking for a Rav4.
I love Rav4s. They run forever and they are very easy to work on (and even easier if you have smaller hands!) Plus, they are fun and they still look sporty.
Good luck! Thanks for watching
Your guides have helped me so much, thank you. I wondered if you have a part number or size for the pan bolts? Two of mine were sheared by a previous owner 🙈
Wow, I'm glad the videos help, and I'm sorry you found two sheared off bolts! That happens because those little bolts are so easy to over-torque, and if the previous owner didn't clean the bolts very well, they are even more likely to break. Double-check with your dealer, but the part number for the pan bolts might be 90119-06727, according to this diagram:
parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_1999_RAV4-HARDTOP-20L-AT/62986468__6718616/CYLINDER-BLOCK/662410-1105.html
I hope that helps -- good luck! : )
@@L35inColorado you're a star, thank you!
Oil flickers and lights on and a ticking noise comes up for about 3 seconds when the car starts early in the morning, should i clean the oil pan or check the oil pump?
L35 in Colorado thank you very much for your input it's about one of the best videos that I have seen you break it all way down to just basic common sense I would love to purchase do it yourself 1996 through 2000 Toyota RAV4 motor 3s-fe 2.0 catalog book that you were using how can I go about buying a catalog book like that thank you very much once again
Thanks - I bought the FSM (factory service manual) on Ebay about 10 years ago. They are still available, but they are a bit expensive (though they are less expensive than they used to be).
Here's an example - this is one a pretty good deal because it is $75 for both Volume 1 and Volume 2, for a 1999 edition:
www.ebay.com/itm/303119927297?hash=item46935b0801:g:1psAAOSwJ2pb6K32
As you can see, they are a bit expensive, but they are great manuals.
If you have' 96 or '97 Rav4, you'd want to buy either a '96 or '97 FSM because the earlier Rav4's have a slightly different ignition system (distributor).
If you have a '98 - '00 (distributor-less/direct ignition), then any of those years will work for either '98, '99, or '00 models. The manuals also contain info for all drivetrains (2WD and AWD) and transmission (Auto & Manual).
If you can only buy one Volume of the FSM, I'd recommend to get "Volume 2", because that is the Volume that contains the engine & system repair instructions and diagrams. Volume 2 says on the cover "Engine Chassis Body Electrical".
Volume 1 is mostly diagnostic information, so it doesn't contain much specific repair info and is not as useful as Volume 2 (but it is still useful).
Alternatively, you can buy a two-day pass from Toyota Information System (TIS), and download/print whatever you need directly from Toyota. That costs $20 and is much more labor intensive, but it also an option:
techinfo.toyota.com
I hope that helps - thanks for watching : )
I love you!
61040 was the right number for the back. Searched high and low for the right gasket for the front, where it meets the manifold. My 97 Rav 4, didn't have those springs. Looks completely different. Ordered multiple gaskets on amazon, none fit. Went to the parts store and after an hr of trying to match one to my old one found, 31374. No idea what the brand is. The packages doesn't say. Got it from Oriely.
Hello, please I want your help. I want to change the automatic transmission oil in a 1998 RAV4. Are there specific steps? I hope you write them. I want to change the automatic transmission oil without changing the filter. I hope you write the steps, please.
Good
Hi, what is part no. Of pan gasket? Tnks
Well now i removed the power steering pump, exhaust manifold, and the steering wheel just so i can get in the car. Now im in the driver seat what do i do next.
A replacement gasket kit I bought specifically for the Rav4 came with both gasket sealer and a rubber gasket. Is it ok to put down a bead of sealant like you've shown and then place the rubber gasket on top?
This question was asked by another commentor -- here is my reply, copied:
Great question -- I have seen it both ways (cork/rubber gasket or gasket-maker), but personally I always use only the gasket-maker RTV, and I always use Permatex Ultra Black RTV (as seen in the video).
My main reason for this is simply because the Toyota Factory Service Manual shows to use only the gasket-maker, and I have not had any issues in doing it this way over the years.
What I would be concerned about in using the cork gasket is that I might accidentally over-torque the pan bolts; they are very small, and can easily break if over-torqued. I would just stick with the gasket-maker only. Good luck!
Please help! I somehow missed the inch lbs and thought I needed a ft lb torque wrench, which I already have. I already put the pan back on yesterday and hand tightened it with a socket wrench because I just didn't know what to do. I picked up the torque wrench today. Should I use it now and call it good or should I remove the pan and start over? 🤔
I'm sorry this happened to you, and that I missed your comment (I just replied to your other comment, and I see this comment now - please see my response to your other comment so perhaps we can figure it out)
I learned how to change my oil from your video and the first time it went great despite the part store giving me a hard plastic gasket. The second time they were out of gaskets so I just bought the plug with gasket. Figured it wouldn't hurt to replace the plug. This time the hard plastic seal cracked and so I tried using the old one becuase it was all I had. I also went back to my old plug becuase I was worried something was off with the new one as it looked different and I didn't want to strip the pan or something crazy. I figured the old one was fine before and wouldn't create an unknown risk. But then I forgot to lock the torque wrench and stripped the pan anyways. The threads on the pan look only very slightly damaged at the first two. The bolt was stuck for 3 hrs and the threads were flat when I finally removed it. I am now using a rubber plug. I was wondering if you think it is safe to drive 20 min to and from work next week week while I am waiting for the parts. I am also wondering about the pre-made gasket. I feel like it would be a lot easier to work with. Also, I would rather replace the bolts than clean them and put them back in order, is this an option? If so how do I get the right ones? And with the pan it self only looking slightly damaged, should I try replacing the plug once more before ordering everything? I also found a kit to repair the drain plug hole. Helicoil or something like that. What do you think of that? Sounds easier than replacing the pan.
Thank you for the video. Your videos are so helpful and easy to fallow.
Ah man, I'm sorry that happened to you! About the rubber plug: I have never used a rubber/expanding plug, but I am aware of their use in emergency situations. If you're using the adjustable/expanding rubber plug (like the "Need-a-part") which expands and tightens, I have heard of their successful use in emergency situations, but I would be checking it very often (both the oil level and the plug itself) and watching the dash for an oil indicator light in case it springs a leak.
They can be a little difficult to install correctly. You do *not* want to have an oil leak at the drain plug as you can very quickly lose oil pressure if it leaks, and that will be a major problem (especially given a 20 mile commute).
The magnetic/rubber styles may be safer (I don't know); some people have reported success with the "Eco Plug" brand, and have even used that as a permanent solution instead of replacing the pan. Again, I have not used these.
I would be careful and if you don't need to use the vehicle, then I would err on the side of caution (if possible) until it is properly/permanently repaired to avoid the risk of a catastrophic oil leak.
As for the oil pan gasket: the Permatex RTV works very well! I haven't used the cork/rubber gaskets. I have heard about some issues with bolts breaking because they end up over-torqued while compressing the thicker rubber/cork gaskets. If you use a rubber/cork gasket, then it may be necessary to reduce the torque spec.
As for the pan perimeter bolts: you can replace them if you'd like: the part number from Toyota is 90119-06727 (double check that with your dealer), and I think you need 17, then there are a couple nuts. You can re-use the bolts as long as you clean them with a wire brush, as shown in the video. It is important not to over-tightened them (especially if using a cork/rubber gasket instead of the RTV).
As for the oil drain plug gasket: the gasket should not be plastic -- the proper drain plug gasket is a coated aluminum drain plug gasket for the oil drain plug, which is Toyota 90430-12031 or Dorman 095-156. But -- this is an important heads up -- if you use an aftermarket oil pan (like the one shown in this video), it may have a different plug size. For example, the head may be 13mm instead of 14mm, and the Toyota drain plug gasket may not fit. You will have to see what comes on the new pan (the drain plug may not be exactly the same, unless you get a Toyota pan). You can then take the new gasket to the parts store on the first oil change and find a matching size, if it is different than the Toyota size.
I hope that helps! Good luck! : )
@@L35inColorado thank you so much for getting back to me with this helpful info. I have everything that I need tonreplace the pan now, except one of the gaskets. I ordered a couple online but now rewatching the video and reading your comments I am not feeling confident that I have the right ones. My partner My partner I both have been trying to figure this out and we are incredibly confused. We go back and forth between the video text and the description you left in the comments and we just can not peice it together. Are they the same or not and what are the part number for each. It would be helpful if you list it out like this:
Front exahst gasket part #s:
Fel pro #
Toyota #
Rear exhaust gasket part #s:
Fel pro #
Toyota #
We bought two gaskets one is fel pro 61040(Amazon claims this one does not fit my car), the other is fel pro 61124. We are afraid to get started becuase that one can not be re used and we can not move the car once we start so we will not be able to go to work or pick up any parts or anything. Sonwe want to be sure that we at least have the one that we need.
Saved my behind, my mother broke the end of her dipstick off and got a magnet stuck in the drain plug hole, i couldnt for the life of me figure out the exhaust
Oh, boy, that's frustrating! Great job on helping your Mom!
Thanks for watching : )
Thanks for this video the info was really helpful! I have a 1997 Rav4 & every now and then I'm getting a burning oil smell & sometimes I can see it in my review mirror!! Do you have any idea what this might be?? Is it the valve cover gasket?? It does burn & leak a little oil, I just top it off every couple of weeks or so it has 207k on the odometer thanks
If you see oil burning smoke (blue-ish color) when you first start up the Rav4, especially if it has been sitting overnight, then you probably have the common issue of leaky valve stem seals. If the puff of blue-white smoke clears after the initial start up, most people just leave it be (the repair is complicated and requires removing the cam shafts and tappets to reach the valve stem seals).
If it is constantly burning oil, but you're not getting any misfires or reduced performance, then it could be piston rings (major repair), which is something you can determine with a compression test ("wet" and dry compression test). The repair for worn piston rings is a major repair (remove the head, remove the oil pan, remove the pistons, etc -- this is usually just done as a "rebuild").
If you're getting smoke and also reduced performance/misfires, then I would pull the spark plugs and check for oil on the plugs: if there is oil on the plugs, it is almost certainly from the RTV sealant between the spark plug tubes and the head: the original factory RTV eventually dries out and allows oil from the head to slowly leak onto the plugs, which causes oil burning and misfires. The repair is a reasonable DIY, and looks like this:
ua-cam.com/video/qSiSC1bceT8/v-deo.html
www.rav4world.com/threads/diy-replace-valve-cover-gasket-reseal-spark-plug-tubes-to-stop-oil-on-plugs.266729/
If you see oil on the plugs, then you will certainly benefit from re-sealing those spark plug tubes, as shown above -- even if you're not yet getting any misfires, because it will eventually cause misfires, and misfires on a little 4-cyl engine like the Rav4's feel like stalls, haha.
If you don't have oil on the plugs, but have some consistent oil burning (so maybe slightly worn rings or seals), you might first try switching to a high-mileage oil, such as Valvoline MaxLife High Mileage 5W-30 and see if that helps the oil consumption/smoke.
I hope that helps! Good luck : )
@@L35inColorado thanks that did help & I'll refer back to it. The check engine light is on but the code is only reading EGR Valve. The smoke isn't all the time just every now and then. I'm not gonna put a bunch of money into this car it's a 1997, still runs good but I'm just trying to get a little more time out of it here until I get a little more $$ for something newer. Should I be concerned about the ERG valve code???
@@joelove1987 I would troubleshoot the EGR code, because it can negative affect fuel economy, and the fixes are usually pretty easy (though it can take some time to pin down exactly what the item is). I have three videos on the EGR system that covers pretty much everything and will help you troubleshoot. Sometimes the fix is as easy as a lose vacuum hose.
If you're getting the P0401 or P0402 code, it is most likely the VSV (not always, but most likely), which is an easy, inexpensive fix:
ua-cam.com/video/1Z-sy6z14D8/v-deo.html
If you'd like to fully troubleshoot the system before replacing any parts, check out this video:
ua-cam.com/video/pdpnk2f7gnc/v-deo.html
If you end up needing to replace the EGR valve or clean the EGR pipe, check out this video:
ua-cam.com/video/O3yb5RIlqPM/v-deo.html
Good luck!
Can I do this with a gasket that an auto store sells or should I use gasketmaker? I have sealant for the gasket. It's like a cork material.
Great question -- I have seen it both ways (cork/rubber gasket or gasket-maker), but personally I always use only the gasket-maker RTV, and I always use Permatex Ultra Black RTV (as seen in the video).
My main reason for this is simply because the Toyota Factory Service Manual shows to use only the gasket-maker, and I have not had any issues in doing it this way over the years.
What I would be concerned about in using the cork gasket is that I might accidentally over-torque the pan bolts; they are very small, and can easily break if over-torqued. I would just stick with the gasket-maker only. Good luck!
@@L35inColorado yes, I returned the cork gasket and used the permatex black and the puddles under my Ravy have decreased greatly. Although I still think the oil pump is leaking, or it's still residual oil that was leaking from my valve cover gasket. Which I replaced. The tube seals were pretty much hand tight. 😵
@@averywarenski6847 Nice -- yeah, I like the Permatex Black and find that it seals well. Sounds like you're doing a lot of good work on your Rav4: if you still have an oil leak in that area, it will usually be the oil pump gasket, like you mentioned. Good luck!
❤
Have you ever done the power steering pump? Changed it out?
No, I have not done that job yet. I do have the FSM, so if you need some torque values, just let me know. Good luck!
Hey! How do we know if do need to reseal the oil pan? As opposed to the symptoms of having to replace the oil pump seal.
Good question -- if you're only getting an oil leak when the engine is running, then it's probably the oil pump seal. To be sure, you can look under with the engine running and see if the oil is leaking from that area, which is just ABOVE the oil pan flange. Probably 8 out of 10 times, the oil leak is the oil pump seal, not the oil pan gasket.
But if it is the pan gasket, then you can tell by totally cleaning up the area by the oil pump housing (the face of it), run the engine and see if oil is coming from the pan (ie, oil on the flange). If the pump seal is leaking, then you'll see it trickling in the area you cleaned and know it's from the oil pump housing, but if its from the pan, then you'll see it in a slightly different area.
That's what I would do! Good luck!
Awesome, thank you so much!! Please keep making great videos!
I think I have the oil pump leak ...damn. it's only that corner that's oily and it's a faucet drip when it's running?
I'm sorry I missed your comment - yes, it sounds like you have the oil leak from the oil pump housing gasket, which is behind the timing belt. If you have the original gasket in there (many Rav4's still do), then it is very likely to be leaking after all these years (two decades!). I have this video below which shows the entire timing belt & front engine work job, including how to replace that gasket - check the Pinned Comment on that video to see the oil pump housing gasket ("animal cookie gasket") replacement:
ua-cam.com/video/TbOr7gvqSqc/v-deo.html
Good luck!
It seems like most of the rtv along the channel won't spread out. Did you have a chance to recheck the seal after a year?
Yes, this is my sister's car. There are no leaks (job was done in April 2019). This is also the way pans are sealed on other Toyotas that I have done. As long as you use the right RTV and follow the "cure time" directions, this method works very well. Thanks for your comment!
@@L35inColorado You are the best here in UA-cam. You followed the manual.
@@TheHouseofSniffers Thanks, I always try to stick to the Factor Service Manual! : ) Toyota writes good manuals with great information.
Hi, your videos are the best!
I was searching for a video on the transmission pan gasket and filter replacement, but didnt find. Would you tell me the bolt torque specs on the trans pan for the same vehicle in the video? its 2wd 96 rav4. and the pattern? many thanks! cheers
and also, what year rav4 are you working on? it differs slightly than the one I am working on...
The Rav4 in the video is a 1998 4WD automatic.
Sure -- the torque spec for the transmission plan bolts is very low, just 48 inch-lbs.
This is a very low spec, so if you don't have a torque wrench that covers such a low range, just be sure you don't over-torque them because they will break (it has happened to me!). Use a short wrench/ratchet so you don't over-do it. There is not a specific pattern for torquing them -- just move across and around the pan "randomly" to get them tightened a little at a time.
As with the oil pan bolts in the video, it is important to clean those ATF pan bolts if they are dirty before re-installing them.
If you're doing the ATF filter too, the torque for those bolts is 7 ft-lbs (84 inch-lbs); keep track of which bolt goes in which hole because there are 3 bolts of two different lengths.
The torque for the ATF drain plug is 13 ft-lbs and you'll want to replace that drain plug gasket (90430-A0003) too.
Lastly, be sure to check your replacement pan gasket before you start the job: there are two different pan gaskets -- one with 17 bolt holes and the other with 18. The 18-hole gasket is for the 2WD automatics, and the 17-hole gasket for for the 4WD automatics (they having different transmission). Also, to be sure, you can count the bolts on your, then when you order the new gasket you'll know you have the correct one.
I hope that helps -- good luck! Here's something to review that also might help:
www.rav4world.com/threads/diy-automatic-transmission-fluid-filter-and-pan-gasket-change-w-pics.84831/
@@L35inColorado thank you! I am working on a 96 auto 2wd rav4, california emissions model. I already did the trans filter and gasket job, and did not notice the different length bolts for the filter. I hope it will be ok. I haven't a torque wrench but am in the process of procuring one. I tightened the bolts down enough by feel. There are no leaks so far! all in all, it should be fine. I started the oil pan job the other day but was waiting on the torque wrench. Also replacing both lower ball joints. Thanks for replying! happy wrenching!
The Fel-pro equivalent part# is 61040 for 90080-43036 (not 23591 as shown in your video at 3:39)
Thanks for the update -- I will add that information to the Pinned Comment. Thanks again!
I am so frustrated! I do not understand torque wrenches. They seem so straightforward, yet I have had the worst luck with them. First I stripped my oil pan plug with one. So then I changed the oil pan and broke a bolt off. Now I have to figure out how to extract the bolt and am terrified to finish tightening the bolts. I have no idea how tight it is supposed to feel and just worry that if I keep going it will strip. I didn't hear a click either time. Yes I set it correctly. Maybe this is what I get for buying the cheapest ones? Idk, but I hate torque wrenches. I guess I am going to try tightening the wrest with a ratchet and hope for the best. I don't know what else to do at this point because I don't expect to hear back on time. I used brand new bolts too!
I'm sorry I missed your comment - torque wrenches can be frustrating when you first start using them because the indication (usually a "click") can be hard to sense at first. If you are using a click-style wrench with the knurled tightener at the bottom (like the Pittsburgh's from Harbor Freight), be sure to tighten that bottom feature after setting the wrench to the proper torque value. The "collar" style torque wrenches are easier to set and don't have that feature, so they might be easier to use, but they also require a little experience with "feel" for the click.
To gain experience with the torque wrench, try using it a bolt/nut in a simple piece of wood. Set the wrench to perhaps 25 ft-lbs, then tighten the bolt. Listen and feel for the "click", then set the wrench to a higher value and do it again. The idea is to get that "feel" down before using the wrench on more important fasteners.
Also, be sure not to accidentally mistake foot-lbs for inch-lbs, which is an easy mistake to make and which even experienced people make from time to time: inch-lbs torque wrenches are often more difficult to use for beginners because the "click" and feel are even more discrete than for the larger ft-lbs wrenches, such as 1/2" drive and 3/8" torque wrenches. Typically, the inch-lbs torque wrenches are 1/4" drive because the fasteners themselves are smaller (but there are some good 3/8" drive inch-lbs torque wrenches, such at the Icon 56614).
Regarding your broken bolt: is any of the bolt shaft sticking out, where you could get an extractor pliers on it, or is sheared off such that you can't get a pliers on it?
@@L35inColorado Thank you for getting back to me! I will definitely try practicing using it on wood! I am not sure what kind of torque wrench it is. I just bought the cheapest one from harbor freight. It had a little thing on the bottom that you twist to lock it in place but even after doing that, it can be wiggled loose by moving the handle too much. I am thinking about buying a digital one.
None if the bolt is sticking out. I put some sealant in the hole for now. I planned to fill it with oil today and see if it leaks. I just now found the right gasket for the exhaust so plan to put it back together when it cools down tonight.
My exahst pipes look horrible. I am thinking of replacing them. Any good videos for that? I have weird pipes with extra metal clamped over the pipes holding what looks like insulation. They are very rusty after taking my car to the east cost last winter and there are almost holes in the muffler.
I snapped one of those studs.... Now what?
Oh man, I'm so sorry to hear that, that's never any fun! But it has happened to all of us, so there are solutions. Pick up an extractor kit, or an "ez-out" kit. The kit allows you to drill into the broken stud (it will include a left-hand drill bit), then you use the kit's left-hand extractor tool to remove the broken stud. It is a careful process, so watch some youtube videos on broken bolt extraction, but here is an example (there are lots of other good videos):
ua-cam.com/video/K34RS6M11uw/v-deo.html
You do want to be sure to get that stud out and replace it, otherwise you will have an oil leak. The part number for the stud is:
90126-A0004 (but verify that number with your dealer).
Good luck!
This seems to be the front pipe gasket: Toyota (90080-43036)
After some research with the folks over at rav4world.com, we think the gasket might be Toyota #17451-0D030, which Fel-pro makes as 61124.
Unfortunately, the gasket you mentioned (90080-43036) does not appear to be the right one (based on pictures), because that gasket is a flat-style crush gasket that you'd use between two flanges, but the gasket up front at the point where I disconnected the exhaust at the spring bolts (as seen in the video) is a cone-shaped, mesh/graphite gasket -- the kind you typically see at spring bolt exhaust connections.
However, I think the gasket you mention (90080-43036) might be the gasket for the very top connection on the 48-state setup's, though -- but I'm not sure.
Thanks for sharing, and good luck with your repair!
i want the repair manual
You can still find them on ebay -- here's both Volumes (1 and 2) for $80 or best offer:
www.ebay.com/itm/2000-Toyota-Rav4-SUV-Shop-Service-Repair-Manual-2-Volume-Set-2-0L-AWD/253949637447?hash=item3b2093f347:g:16wAAOSwup1b0eHV
That's a pretty good deal (FSM's are expensive). You really only need Volume 2 for the repairs, because Volume 1 is mostly definitions and diagnostics. If you have a 96 or 97, get either a '96 or '96 manual, because the early Rav4's had a distributor. For model year '98 and later, Toyota changed the ignition system, so get a '98 - '00 manual for them.
I highly recommend the manual -- it is a great FSM.
Good luck!
My family has a rav4
Rav4's are the best! : )
If you’re replacing the pan anyway you can just drill a hole through it and drain it if need be. Messy but not as messy as dumping the whole pan in your garage 😂
Make your drill 🕳 close to the existing drain 🕳.
Haha! I'm very risk averse -- I'd rather have a whole gallon of oil on my garage floor than risk getting any steel shavings anywhere near the rod bearings....but I appreciate your ingenuity! : ) Thanks for your comment, and good luck!
I need to double check where mines leaking at again but if its the oil pump im gonna be so pissed cause i just changed the water pump and the timing belt so i know how much of a bitch the jobs going to be