A smartphone for taking pictures of things before you take them apart, to be sure you reassemble them properly. Possibly also some photos during the disassembly if needed.
Definitely need a chain checker - can really save your cassette. As soon as you replace your chain or cassette get another one to have on hand. Spare tubes are a must have as well. Also essential are a set of small brushes to get dirt out of the nooks and crannies. I would also recommend a pedal wrench. And a bottle of TriFlow.
Essential tool for the home workshop - a laptop or tablet. Particularly if you're new to spannering, or working on a bike that's new to you - there are hundreds of specific videos on UA-cam and elsewhere to walk you through that pain-in-the-ahem bit of maintenance or repair work - GCN in particular have some excellently-described, clearly-shot and well-composed offierings. Or you can just have some music playing while you work! (Yeah, I'll take cash or Paypa...what, we're still commenting? Dammit!)
Thanks man it's a good list. I learnt it the hard way by collecting them piece by piece upon need. I use chain holder often to prevent extra cleaning caused by dangling chain. Not tool but good to have are alot of rags/kitchen towel and newspaper/mat/things to cover the floor if it's not a designated workshop.
My maintenance regime: wash, lube, ride, tentatively approach mysterious two-wheeled object with torque wrench etc, fiddle around, take bike to shop to repair damage done. Once took the rear derailleur off for a "service". The look I got from the LBS when I turned up with a bike and a collection of pieces taught me where my strengths lay.
I once changed my front shifter (bike shop was asking way too much for it). I found a good deal and changed both shifters, but I didn’t have a cable cutter, so I literally went to the bike shop with the extra cable handing out and taped to the frame lol.
I really like the little hook tool for holding the chain together when joining it - it takes the derailleur tension off and stops the chain springing out of the chain tool. Definitely saves a lot of hassle, and is cheap.
Having the tools is one thing. Knowing what to do with them is another level. Big reason why I gave away my car lift and stands. No way I’m going to do my own oil changes. Not trying to get my face covered in oil anymore!
In a pinch a turbo trainer can replace a bike stand. As for Tyre levers, I went for a nice big pair for home use, then alden design's carbon fiber levers in the bike. They're light, thin, and super rigid for $15!
an alternative, a bit more to carry: a back-up chain with quick-link. I am planning to pack a shorter, "fixie-get-me-home" chain; having had chain breaks and rear mech fails, you'll either need a good chain-break tool or spare chain. I'm not worried about killing grams, so the extra chain is easier and faster.
Inner tubes to hang your bike are so yesterday. Rip out your Kevlar or carbon fibre beads from your worn out tyres and use those. Most underrated tools I own are a chain split link splitter and a brake alignment tool. Never used cable cutters; I rely on my dremel. Also deep cleaning of chain is performed with a steam cleaner followed by immediate lubrication on the still warm and dry chain.
Rec on cassette change: Put QR (without springs) in thru the spline tool, loosely up against it, to avoid outward/angling movement of the steel tool when applying torque that will easily deform the soft aluminum cap
The most important tool I have is my brain. Lots of research, watch videos, etc. before I try anything so I know what I’m getting into, what tools I need, and when I should let my LBS mechanic handle the job. The best part is that this tool is free and saves me time, hassle, and money in the long run.
T Handle wrenches are great when applying torque, but when the torque is not needed the the rotational motion is very awkward. You may want to check Super T Handle with Metric Allen Set, compact with a unique spinning feature when torque is not needed.
Certainly is science behind winding off a torque wrench after use. If left in a state of tension the readings will drift over time, causing it to require more adjustment when calibrated. Most home users will never send a wrench for calibration so it’s even more important to wind off the wrench when you’ve finished with it.
A bike stand cost me $200 and thought “will i use it? OMG i used it a ton! Worth every penny! A socket set of allen and torx bits is better 1/4” drive and you can get much better leverage and save your hands. And can’t stress enough TORQUE WRENCH!!! is vital
Brake caliper clamp, have VAR one. Campag cone spanners, park chain / block cleaner brush. And the ' Ultimate ' a Vice (every man has to have a least one 😊) bolted to bench preferably. 👍🚴♀️ Desirable... high stool to sit while admiring your handywork while having a brew 😁👍
Hi Jon, I'm not sure you'll read this since it's quite an old video. In it, you recommend the Conti tyre levers. I loved them too....until a friend gave me a set of the Michelin levers. They're shaped exactly like the Conti levers, feel exactly the same in your hand, weigh the same and pack just as well in your seat bag...but are a bright yellow. The key difference is that they are made from a different material and have almost zero flex...and they will never break. Trust me - I've used them on the worst tyre / rim combos ever conceived of. They really are the perfect tyre lever and I have used them non-stop since I became aware of them. Thought you might enjoy trying them - they're an improvement on your favorite.
I’ve done a lot of research on springs (especially when being stored under load). As long as your within the manufacturers specs you’re ok. Once you go beyond their specs then you can get into trouble where the spring stretches out and doesn’t compress like it used to.
Great video, Jon. My take is to buy the best quality tools you can afford, cheap tools don't last and may well end up damaging components. A solid, well made tool is a joy to use.
i agree with that, but i literally tried some 12€ cheap amazon hex key set. 2-10mm. Held up completely fine till now, no stripped bolts, yes they got some ugly mold leftovers, but they worked for abotu 2 years alrdy
I like a good long pedal wrench myself, as I often change between road and mountain bike pedals on my cross bike. I’d spend the money on the pro level tools straight off for pedals, chain whip, cassette and bottom bracket. Leverage makes your life easy. Don’t get cheap ones first. I bought a small torque wrench recently and the large one will be on my Christmas list!
A 4th hand cable puller is really helpful when setting up derailleurs. My other essential tools are spoke wrenches, a chain checker, a chain cleaner, a pressure gauge, and a cheater bar for removing pedals (I use a 12” piece of black pipe). Lastly, if you’re going to buy a repair stand, it’s worth getting a repair stand mounted truing stand - they aren’t very expensive and they make truing wheels so much easier than doing it while they are on the bike.
Those Conti tire levers are available still under the Zefal brand, I like these the best of any lever design I've used and although they bend in a scary fashion, I've never broken one. they're also great for the seat pack, since they're so compact. I got my first set of these back in the early 1990s, they came along with a set of Michelin *folding bead* tires... wasn't that some cool stuff back then ;)
To avoid stripping bolts, go for quality hex tools like PB Swiss Tools, don't go cheap cause the manufacturing tolerances is what you're paying for. And a high quality hex tool will last you a loooong time
Holy crap, that tire pump looks like it could put out enough volume to start a jet engine! Old toothbrushes are a mainstay in my tool list, great for those hard-to-reach places on components before removing or disassembling.
My bike work stand is the cane I used after breaking my back. I wedge it under a planter box on the garden wall of my terrace and the hook of the cane supports my bike seat perfectly - although not terribly stable when I'm trying to turn the pedals and shift at the same time. Nonetheless, just another advantage of breaking my back!
My essential tool list: Multi tool (including chain tool and spoke wrenches) Set of hex wrenches Torque wrench Chain whip Cassette tool Torx wrenches Tire levers Floor pump Shimano hollowtech 2 end cap tool
7:30 Actually I've found that a pressurised carbon dioxide inflator is a very cheap way to achieve exactly the same thing (probably costs you about maybe £20 for an inflator head and cartridges)
@GCN...... For the price of an expensive Track Pump you can get a really good Digitial Tire Inflator. Its funny we are now using electric shifters and derailleurs but we can't seem to break free of the archaic track pump.
Great Video with some really useful basic tools there but I think that I might add a spoke key to the mix there, it comes on many multi tools now and on there own they are a really good investment to help to tru a wheel. Hopefully you don't have to use it that much but I think that could be said for the cassette tool and chain whip but both really useful and essential tools. Does Greese count as a tool cause that is essential!
It's a valuable video that convinced me to finally buy cable cutters :) I have one request regarding screwdrivers: JIS Standard!. Shimano uses Japanese style screws according to JIS (indicated by the small dot on the head of the screw). Normal Phillips drivers seem to do the work, but skip often. I got myself a JIS screwdriver specially for my bike works and the difference is immense (no skipping of the driver). Can You tackle this topic in the future (i might send you a JIS driver for tests ;))?
I recently got a Park handlebar holder, keeps them from flopping around when the bike is on the stand, which is very helpful. I've also always dialled my torque wrench back to zero, pretty sure it was in the instructions.
I've been told by the guys who calibrate our equipment at work that I should dial torque wrenches down to the lowest setting, not zero. Can't remember the exact reason why..
I'm still 'dreading' the day I need to do a full service on my bike - Luckily I had the foresight to buy a 'cycle kit' with most bits and pieces I would need (Chain splitter, tire thingy, few spanners etc). But dang it, I love that pump you guys are using! I feel sorry for buying a 10$ floor pump which barely shows the amount of pressure in the tire while pumping 😂 Good tips in the video and comments - Never knew there was a thing as JIS vs. Philips screws 😮😑
You definitely need a kettle. Any maintenance job is better done with the lubrication of a cup of tea inside you. Apart from that, I think you have all bases covered.
An apron. It'll protect your clothes, and mine has lots pockets and a magnetic strip that will hold onto easy to lose bits. Also, I keep a box of nitrile gloves lying around. Ooh, a "fourth hand" tool is great for working with cables at pinch points.
Definitely master link pliers, the amount of time ive spent trying to undo chains without these is insane, the shoelace trick usually doesnt work and I end up breaking the shoelace, especially good tobe able to remove your chain for cleaning or if you are taking your back wheel off for transport and longer road trips
Three quid magnet on a telescopic car ariel type thing for removing bearings from hubs has been a Godsend for me, it’s only taken me over 40 years of cycling to learn that one lol.
a cheater bar (remove stuck pedals)....cable/zip ties (keeps stuff together)...double sides tape (speed/cadance senor fitting before making sercure)....insulation tape and tipp ex (mark seat post hight ect)....paper clip (to open cable housing, cheap)
Seeing the chain whip segment reminded me of a question: I use two chain whips to loosen a cog that has cut into the spline and will not come off. Any ideas on a different way? Maybe do a video on taking off / cleanin / replacing a cassette with some of the tips for those of us who leave them on too long?
Always leave a torque wrench at the bottom value when not in use NOT zero. This comes from the guy who calibrates my torque wrenches for aviation use. That means that he is right and I am not going to argue with him. :-)
I agree! You’ll break the adjustable jaw off using it that way. Then you’ll have a lovely unadjustable spanner (or wrench if you live on this side of the pond).
Well equipped workbench, i see that you even have the parktool pizza cutter on display on the upper left corner, certainly a must have for hungry bike mechanics!
Mechanics trick. If you round off an internal hex screw, 1) if the thread is not crossed or seized, cut it off with the angle grinder or drill out the head. Then you can unwind the remaining thread with pliers. 2) if it's crossed or seized, hammer a torx bit into the rounded in-hex and undo it. 3) if all else fails. Drill/cut off the head. Grind the remaining thread flat and flush. Centrepunch the dead centre and CAREFULLY drill out to the inner thread diameter and re-tap it. Good as new!
i actually work in a bike shop, where we work with upside down workstands and its just soo much better...you can just apply more force (if needed) and you can sit while working on the bikes. I prefer working upside down and for me it is the "correct" way.
Half a dozen reusuable cable ties are also essential when removing and especially fitting new tyres. The cable ties are vital in keeping the tyre beads inside the wheel well. Done properly you shouldn't need to use tyre levers as the tyre should just pop over the wheel rim and eliminating the risk of pinching inner tubes
the continental tire levers never worked for me. Bought a conti saddlebag with an inner tube and i got 2 levers with that pack. One broke completely off when changing my Gp 4000. The second one broek halfway, so i still changed the tube, bt had to throw away both of them. And no, the tire wasn't sitting particularly tight. I use schwalbe ones, thoguh they flex sometimes a bto too much, but nothing ever happend
daAnder71 - frankly I don’t think it’s a knock off, I think this one comes from the same factory as the one specific stand that the Dutch royal cycling union is selling for a bargain price at 150+ euro’s. Expect for the color the picture seems identical. And btw, a knock of would constitute a fake pinarello bike or something... bike stands aren never sexy enough to be knock-off’s.
Ivar Brouwer Agreed! I bought one just to use as a wash stand. It isn’t as good as my Park stand, or as convenient as the wall mounted stand in my smallish shed, but perfectly adequate and a bargain at the price. It also comes with a handlebar brace. A great buy for those on a budget!
Very good video. The essential tools brought a question to mind and hopefully you can answer or do a brief show on the topic. So getting a new bike is not always an option but upgrades can be. Can an old Dura Ace 9 speed be converted to a modern 11 speed using the same wheels and derailer (limiting cassette to 28 of course). Can this be done by just replacing the hub and cassette? Is a new shifter required? If yes can the new cassette be used with old crankset? Visa versa if the a new crankset is used and an older cassette be used? just curious. Tinkering in the garage.
just for the record i believe most Shimano derailleurs actually use JIS screws and not phillips, or at least this is true of the older ones. JIS and phillips look quite a lot a like, but using the correct driver reduces the chances of stripping out the head. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives#JIS_B_1012 . I'm lucky enough to have an 18" breaker bar and 1" socket, which is what i use on cassette lock rings, and freewheels. With a 6 point socket i'm much much less likely to slip and mess up my knuckles or round off my lock ring tool.
I hate those Conti levers, I've snapped the ends off two or three of them. Maybe I'm doing it wrong but when a tyre is stubborn, that's how it is. I can't change how tight the bead is. So they're bad from my experience. I much prefer thinner (horizontally), thicker (vertically) levers with a nice strong scoop on the end. Those have always worked in my experience and I have never broken a single one. Only the Conti ones which have weak ends.
A smartphone for taking pictures of things before you take them apart, to be sure you reassemble them properly. Possibly also some photos during the disassembly if needed.
And if you make a video and upload it, those who forgot to take the pictures will thank you
Old inner tube as a bike stand...?
That was brilliant!
Definitely need a chain checker - can really save your cassette. As soon as you replace your chain or cassette get another one to have on hand. Spare tubes are a must have as well. Also essential are a set of small brushes to get dirt out of the nooks and crannies. I would also recommend a pedal wrench. And a bottle of TriFlow.
I always keep a new bike handy, in case some maintenance is needed.
:-)
@@patthewoodboy ROTFLMAO! Great minds ;-)
Or like me, he just Keep his bike fresh. Don't hate the player, hate the game 🤷🏽♂️
Essential tool for the home workshop - a laptop or tablet. Particularly if you're new to spannering, or working on a bike that's new to you - there are hundreds of specific videos on UA-cam and elsewhere to walk you through that pain-in-the-ahem bit of maintenance or repair work - GCN in particular have some excellently-described, clearly-shot and well-composed offierings. Or you can just have some music playing while you work!
(Yeah, I'll take cash or Paypa...what, we're still commenting? Dammit!)
I always use protective gloves when doing any maintenance, I'd also recommend a magnetic tray for bolts.
Great shout Jamesy!
Thank you. I'm not pro but there's nothing wrong with having a go
Thin wrenchs. Would be a nice must too. I dont have parktool ones but i do have thin wrenches and love them.
A rubber mallet to help knock things loose, especially steered tubes from the wedge in the headset when disassembling and removing your fork.
Magnetic bowls for holding all the little parts.
Thanks man it's a good list. I learnt it the hard way by collecting them piece by piece upon need.
I use chain holder often to prevent extra cleaning caused by dangling chain.
Not tool but good to have are alot of rags/kitchen towel and newspaper/mat/things to cover the floor if it's not a designated workshop.
Chain checker , Grease gun, Hollowtech BB tool (for BB and centerlock).
My maintenance regime: wash, lube, ride, tentatively approach mysterious two-wheeled object with torque wrench etc, fiddle around, take bike to shop to repair damage done. Once took the rear derailleur off for a "service". The look I got from the LBS when I turned up with a bike and a collection of pieces taught me where my strengths lay.
''take to the shop to repair damage done'' that means you gave up.
I once changed my front shifter (bike shop was asking way too much for it). I found a good deal and changed both shifters, but I didn’t have a cable cutter, so I literally went to the bike shop with the extra cable handing out and taped to the frame lol.
@@miepmaster25 Murphys' law on shop visits for mechanic love...equally proportionate to the cost of the bike ;-)
S͢a͢g͢a͢r͢i͢s͢ B͢l͢a͢a͢u͢w͢ Yes that means he gave up. It’s called H U M O U R.
I really like the little hook tool for holding the chain together when joining it - it takes the derailleur tension off and stops the chain springing out of the chain tool. Definitely saves a lot of hassle, and is cheap.
Jon - your presenting style has improved so dramatically over the past weeks! Keep up the hard work, you're doing a fantastic job.
callumph cheers
A good pick set can come in handy for lifting bearing seals for cleaning and also opening up freshly cut cables.
Having the tools is one thing. Knowing what to do with them is another level. Big reason why I gave away my car lift and stands. No way I’m going to do my own oil changes. Not trying to get my face covered in oil anymore!
I love your tools, parktool... my dream tools... stay safe....
I use an ultrasonic cleaner for the chain and cassette. It also works well when doing pedal maintenance.
In a pinch a turbo trainer can replace a bike stand.
As for Tyre levers, I went for a nice big pair for home use, then alden design's carbon fiber levers in the bike. They're light, thin, and super rigid for $15!
Stoked to see your garage tour!
an alternative, a bit more to carry:
a back-up chain with quick-link.
I am planning to pack a shorter, "fixie-get-me-home" chain; having had chain breaks and rear mech fails, you'll either need a good chain-break tool or spare chain. I'm not worried about killing grams, so the extra chain is easier and faster.
How about a bucket? so you can place all the parts/nuts/bolts/screws you missed to assemble before you take them along with the bike to the shop.
A hammer is a must also my chain pliers. So easy to install and remove chains with quick links. Can’t go without one! Great video Jon!
Rear Derailleur Hanger Alignment Tool - it's saved me from erroneously trying to adjust and then replace my entire drivechain. Twice.
Inner tubes to hang your bike are so yesterday. Rip out your Kevlar or carbon fibre beads from your worn out tyres and use those. Most underrated tools I own are a chain split link splitter and a brake alignment tool. Never used cable cutters; I rely on my dremel. Also deep cleaning of chain is performed with a steam cleaner followed by immediate lubrication on the still warm and dry chain.
Rec on cassette change: Put QR (without springs) in thru the spline tool, loosely up against it, to avoid outward/angling movement of the steel tool when applying torque that will easily deform the soft aluminum cap
The most important tool I have is my brain. Lots of research, watch videos, etc. before I try anything so I know what I’m getting into, what tools I need, and when I should let my LBS mechanic handle the job. The best part is that this tool is free and saves me time, hassle, and money in the long run.
Bingo
Great video as usual. One tool that i use in my home work shop that I can't be with out is my derailleur hanger straightener. Awesome to by Park Tool.
T Handle wrenches are great when applying torque, but when the torque is not needed the the rotational motion is very awkward. You may want to check Super T Handle with Metric Allen Set, compact with a unique spinning feature when torque is not needed.
Certainly is science behind winding off a torque wrench after use. If left in a state of tension the readings will drift over time, causing it to require more adjustment when calibrated. Most home users will never send a wrench for calibration so it’s even more important to wind off the wrench when you’ve finished with it.
So true man! Learned this in mechanics school and good practice makes it a instant response after you’ve torqued! Or get a digital 😜 $$$$$$
Digital tire pressure gauge. My 20 year old floor pump has a gauge, but I trust the dedicated gauge more and can use it separate from the pump.
A bike stand cost me $200 and thought “will i use it? OMG i used it a ton! Worth every penny! A socket set of allen and torx bits is better 1/4” drive and you can get much better leverage and save your hands. And can’t stress enough TORQUE WRENCH!!! is vital
One more for the advance home user. Derailleur Hanger Alignment tool like the park dag 2.2. such a brilliant tool.
Brake caliper clamp, have VAR one. Campag cone spanners, park chain / block cleaner brush. And the
' Ultimate ' a Vice (every man has to have a least one 😊) bolted to bench preferably. 👍🚴♀️ Desirable... high stool to sit while admiring your handywork while having a brew 😁👍
I am just getting into cycling (just bought a Specialized Diverge E5 Elite 2021!). This is really helpful. You just increased my shopping list!
Hi Jon, I'm not sure you'll read this since it's quite an old video. In it, you recommend the Conti tyre levers. I loved them too....until a friend gave me a set of the Michelin levers. They're shaped exactly like the Conti levers, feel exactly the same in your hand, weigh the same and pack just as well in your seat bag...but are a bright yellow. The key difference is that they are made from a different material and have almost zero flex...and they will never break. Trust me - I've used them on the worst tyre / rim combos ever conceived of. They really are the perfect tyre lever and I have used them non-stop since I became aware of them. Thought you might enjoy trying them - they're an improvement on your favorite.
I’ve done a lot of research on springs (especially when being stored under load). As long as your within the manufacturers specs you’re ok. Once you go beyond their specs then you can get into trouble where the spring stretches out and doesn’t compress like it used to.
Great video, Jon. My take is to buy the best quality tools you can afford, cheap tools don't last and may well end up damaging components. A solid, well made tool is a joy to use.
Michael McDermott like the tyre levers. Long and stiff. Does the job
Jon Cannings And I only found out about those ball headed Allen keys after years of tricky ikea builds.
i agree with that, but i literally tried some 12€ cheap amazon hex key set. 2-10mm. Held up completely fine till now, no stripped bolts, yes they got some ugly mold leftovers, but they worked for abotu 2 years alrdy
I like a good long pedal wrench myself, as I often change between road and mountain bike pedals on my cross bike. I’d spend the money on the pro level tools straight off for pedals, chain whip, cassette and bottom bracket. Leverage makes your life easy. Don’t get cheap ones first. I bought a small torque wrench recently and the large one will be on my Christmas list!
A 4th hand cable puller is really helpful when setting up derailleurs. My other essential tools are spoke wrenches, a chain checker, a chain cleaner, a pressure gauge, and a cheater bar for removing pedals (I use a 12” piece of black pipe). Lastly, if you’re going to buy a repair stand, it’s worth getting a repair stand mounted truing stand - they aren’t very expensive and they make truing wheels so much easier than doing it while they are on the bike.
I didn't see you mention a needle and thread to fix those denims.
Michael McDermott haha. I got them caught on a frayed cable
grow up, fashion changes
Kelke van Lessen It sure did!
Shut up boomer
It is also useful from time to time, to check the calibration of your torque wrenches. They may also need calibrating out of the box.
Those Conti tire levers are available still under the Zefal brand, I like these the best of any lever design I've used and although they bend in a scary fashion, I've never broken one. they're also great for the seat pack, since they're so compact. I got my first set of these back in the early 1990s, they came along with a set of Michelin *folding bead* tires... wasn't that some cool stuff back then ;)
Great tool the Conti tyre lever ;however one broke on me .. changing punctured tube 6 30 am - 5 degrees commuting to work !
To avoid stripping bolts, go for quality hex tools like PB Swiss Tools, don't go cheap cause the manufacturing tolerances is what you're paying for. And a high quality hex tool will last you a loooong time
What about plastic tubing for replacing cables on an internally routed frameset.
Holy crap, that tire pump looks like it could put out enough volume to start a jet engine! Old toothbrushes are a mainstay in my tool list, great for those hard-to-reach places on components before removing or disassembling.
A fish hook remover is basically a large hemostat and is excellent for holding onto cable ends while adjusting like a third hand.
My bike work stand is the cane I used after breaking my back. I wedge it under a planter box on the garden wall of my terrace and the hook of the cane supports my bike seat perfectly - although not terribly stable when I'm trying to turn the pedals and shift at the same time. Nonetheless, just another advantage of breaking my back!
My essential tool list:
Multi tool (including chain tool and spoke wrenches)
Set of hex wrenches
Torque wrench
Chain whip
Cassette tool
Torx wrenches
Tire levers
Floor pump
Shimano hollowtech 2 end cap tool
7:30 Actually I've found that a pressurised carbon dioxide inflator is a very cheap way to achieve exactly the same thing (probably costs you about maybe £20 for an inflator head and cartridges)
Excellent video, i also use 1000 grams digital scale for weighting crank arms or other things (spokes, bolts, pedals...)
That bike, that color. Canyon is killing it.
I’m big believer in torque wrench. I also believe it’s very difficult to find the manufacturers inch pounds or foot pounds etc
@GCN...... For the price of an expensive Track Pump you can get a really good Digitial Tire Inflator. Its funny we are now using electric shifters and derailleurs but we can't seem to break free of the archaic track pump.
Chain checking tool??🤷♂️ maybe
@@willhathaway1953 But a chain checking tool is so cheap and both accurate and easy to use.
Great Video with some really useful basic tools there but I think that I might add a spoke key to the mix there, it comes on many multi tools now and on there own they are a really good investment to help to tru a wheel. Hopefully you don't have to use it that much but I think that could be said for the cassette tool and chain whip but both really useful and essential tools. Does Greese count as a tool cause that is essential!
It's a valuable video that convinced me to finally buy cable cutters :)
I have one request regarding screwdrivers: JIS Standard!. Shimano uses Japanese style screws according to JIS (indicated by the small dot on the head of the screw). Normal Phillips drivers seem to do the work, but skip often. I got myself a JIS screwdriver specially for my bike works and the difference is immense (no skipping of the driver). Can You tackle this topic in the future (i might send you a JIS driver for tests ;))?
I recently got a Park handlebar holder, keeps them from flopping around when the bike is on the stand, which is very helpful.
I've also always dialled my torque wrench back to zero, pretty sure it was in the instructions.
Good point, Tom. Economy version = bungee cord around front wheel; bike on wall mount
I've been told by the guys who calibrate our equipment at work that I should dial torque wrenches down to the lowest setting, not zero. Can't remember the exact reason why..
panzerveps yeah, I meant lowest setting, just as he said, to remove the load on the spring.
George Hugh I used a toe strap previously (which dates me 😉), but this works even with the front wheel removed.
@@georgehugh3455 Ya, I was gonna say...bungee...string...old Spurs sock ;-)
I'm still 'dreading' the day I need to do a full service on my bike - Luckily I had the foresight to buy a 'cycle kit' with most bits and pieces I would need (Chain splitter, tire thingy, few spanners etc).
But dang it, I love that pump you guys are using! I feel sorry for buying a 10$ floor pump which barely shows the amount of pressure in the tire while pumping 😂
Good tips in the video and comments - Never knew there was a thing as JIS vs. Philips screws 😮😑
Good video, would recommend a set of cone wrenches as well.
Truing stand and spoke wrench because potholes and curbs. Pair of cone wrenches for replacing cup and cone bearings.
Why do derailleur limit screws still use phillips head screwdriver instead of allen or torx bolts?
William Vardy electronic groupsets often use Allen keys. Cheers
You definitely need a kettle. Any maintenance job is better done with the lubrication of a cup of tea inside you. Apart from that, I think you have all bases covered.
cabbieman I actually found a kettle to help in removing old decals. Boiled water, a bit of Goo Gone, and a credit card.
@@SeanoHermano I hope you don't use that credit card unless you like wasting a weekend day
@@calebgonsalves2970 I just had a few decals and they easily removed quickly with this technique. The boiled water is important though.
Number 10: Find a good bike mechanic who can undo all the mistakes you have made.
But it's not exactly fun is it
I'm buying tools to undo mistakes my local 'mechanics' have made
@@odhran8825 I wish this wasnt true, but I have had "professionals" ruin anything from my hydraulic brakes to shifters.
Finding a good mechanic is like finding a unicorn. xD
Ong
for tyre levers have you tried Crank Brothers Speedier Lever Hang tag saves catching the inner tube when replacing the tyre
Pedal & cone spanners ..
Headset spanners for us still riding our 1" steer tube bikes (Pace RC200, got to love the square tubes).
Spoke key?
This was very informative.thanks Pat from Belgium 🚲
Tighten until it strips, then back it off quarter turn. Job done!
An apron. It'll protect your clothes, and mine has lots pockets and a magnetic strip that will hold onto easy to lose bits. Also, I keep a box of nitrile gloves lying around. Ooh, a "fourth hand" tool is great for working with cables at pinch points.
Definitely master link pliers, the amount of time ive spent trying to undo chains without these is insane, the shoelace trick usually doesnt work and I end up breaking the shoelace, especially good tobe able to remove your chain for cleaning or if you are taking your back wheel off for transport and longer road trips
An old chain and vise grips make a good chain whip in a pinch
Three quid magnet on a telescopic car ariel type thing for removing bearings from hubs has been a Godsend for me, it’s only taken me over 40 years of cycling to learn that one lol.
a cheater bar (remove stuck pedals)....cable/zip ties (keeps stuff together)...double sides tape (speed/cadance senor fitting before making sercure)....insulation tape and tipp ex (mark seat post hight ect)....paper clip (to open cable housing, cheap)
Seeing the chain whip segment reminded me of a question: I use two chain whips to loosen a cog that has cut into the spline and will not come off. Any ideas on a different way? Maybe do a video on taking off / cleanin / replacing a cassette with some of the tips for those of us who leave them on too long?
Ah, what about spoke key? Bottom bracket removal tool?
Always leave a torque wrench at the bottom value when not in use NOT zero. This comes from the guy who calibrates my torque wrenches for aviation use. That means that he is right and I am not going to argue with him. :-)
Great video. My only complaint is that you used the adjustable spanner the wrong way :/ they even have an arrow that indicates the direction.
I agree! You’ll break the adjustable jaw off using it that way. Then you’ll have a lovely unadjustable spanner (or wrench if you live on this side of the pond).
You missed a grease gun! I have found it essential, especially with SpeedPlays.
Jon, nice video...how about a spoke wrench? ya know...truing a wheel is sometimes necessary.
Well equipped workbench, i see that you even have the parktool pizza cutter on display on the upper left corner, certainly a must have for hungry bike mechanics!
Mechanics trick.
If you round off an internal hex screw,
1) if the thread is not crossed or seized, cut it off with the angle grinder or drill out the head. Then you can unwind the remaining thread with pliers.
2) if it's crossed or seized, hammer a torx bit into the rounded in-hex and undo it.
3) if all else fails. Drill/cut off the head. Grind the remaining thread flat and flush. Centrepunch the dead centre and CAREFULLY drill out to the inner thread diameter and re-tap it.
Good as new!
i actually work in a bike shop, where we work with upside down workstands and its just soo much better...you can just apply more force (if needed) and you can sit while working on the bikes. I prefer working upside down and for me it is the "correct" way.
Half a dozen reusuable cable ties are also essential when removing and especially fitting new tyres. The cable ties are vital in keeping the tyre beads inside the wheel well. Done properly you shouldn't need to use tyre levers as the tyre should just pop over the wheel rim and eliminating the risk of pinching inner tubes
Those continental tire levers are made by Zefal, I have a set and they are indestructible, no need to worry about breaking them.
TheNerdyCanadian plenty of folk have them rebranded. Good aren't they.
the continental tire levers never worked for me. Bought a conti saddlebag with an inner tube and i got 2 levers with that pack. One broke completely off when changing my Gp 4000. The second one broek halfway, so i still changed the tube, bt had to throw away both of them. And no, the tire wasn't sitting particularly tight. I use schwalbe ones, thoguh they flex sometimes a bto too much, but nothing ever happend
Work stand: last year got a work stand from Aldi for 25 euro’s (only one week a year usually) looks identical to some 180euro models.
Ivar Brouwer Totally agree bought one last summer and is a great stand
daAnder71 - frankly I don’t think it’s a knock off, I think this one comes from the same factory as the one specific stand that the Dutch royal cycling union is selling for a bargain price at 150+ euro’s. Expect for the color the picture seems identical. And btw, a knock of would constitute a fake pinarello bike or something... bike stands aren never sexy enough to be knock-off’s.
Ivar Brouwer Agreed! I bought one just to use as a wash stand. It isn’t as good as my Park stand, or as convenient as the wall mounted stand in my smallish shed, but perfectly adequate and a bargain at the price. It also comes with a handlebar brace. A great buy for those on a budget!
BB tool & cone spanners?
Hi guys. Good video. Can you tell what is the air pump that you show in this video? Thank you.
Very good video. The essential tools brought a question to mind and hopefully you can answer or do a brief show on the topic. So getting a new bike is not always an option but upgrades can be. Can an old Dura Ace 9 speed be converted to a modern 11 speed using the same wheels and derailer (limiting cassette to 28 of course). Can this be done by just replacing the hub and cassette? Is a new shifter required? If yes can the new cassette be used with old crankset? Visa versa if the a new crankset is used and an older cassette be used? just curious. Tinkering in the garage.
Sometime I used a Dremel with a disk to cut the cables.
jon has to be the most likable person i have ever seen
Johnny Hanel cheers Johnny
just for the record i believe most Shimano derailleurs actually use JIS screws and not phillips, or at least this is true of the older ones. JIS and phillips look quite a lot a like, but using the correct driver reduces the chances of stripping out the head. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives#JIS_B_1012
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I'm lucky enough to have an 18" breaker bar and 1" socket, which is what i use on cassette lock rings, and freewheels. With a 6 point socket i'm much much less likely to slip and mess up my knuckles or round off my lock ring tool.
Nice Video hope to see another one on tools
I hate those Conti levers, I've snapped the ends off two or three of them. Maybe I'm doing it wrong but when a tyre is stubborn, that's how it is. I can't change how tight the bead is. So they're bad from my experience. I much prefer thinner (horizontally), thicker (vertically) levers with a nice strong scoop on the end. Those have always worked in my experience and I have never broken a single one. Only the Conti ones which have weak ends.
Great video. Very helpful. But please enlight me - why do I need to cut break cables with pliers on my bike? What am I missing in this education?
When removing old brake cables and fitting new ones and trimming the new cable length to fit your bike.
No mention of a JIS screwdriver for shimano gear?
This is a must for Japanese derrailleurs 2x100 JIS Cross Point Screwdriver
Pedal wrench and patch kit for your tubes.
What size torque wrench is that in milly meter u used on bicycle
I have a wrench for tensioning cables....it's like having a 3rd hand!👍
In my bike's front wheel disc brake inside an adjustable alen bolt is rounded how to remove that but it's jammed not turning at all from the beginning