Emissions Test - What are I/M Readiness Monitors And How To Fix
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- Опубліковано 8 сер 2021
- In this video I give an overview of what I/M Readiness is and how it relates to emissions and smog testing. I talk about how incomplete, not ready, and not complete monitor status can be resolved. Having an OBD2 Scan Tool can help you be ready for your emissions test.
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Thank you for coming over these terms, simple and straightforward explanation.
Thanks for explaining this! It helped me pass the smog check on the first try!
Thank You straight to the point! Exactly what I needed to know.
Great Overview! Increased my level of understanding
I love the video just learning how to use my scan tool I noticed you have the same one I have I'm hoping you could show more videos about that scan tool thank you so much
Excellent video, Thanks Todd!
This video was great. Thanks
Great video! Your explanations for the emission readiness helped me out.
Thanks for watching, I am glad it helped!
VERY EDUCATIVE .tHANK YOU
Thanks a lot! I was puzzled what INC is!😇
Great info. I have an 02' Blazer zr2 4.3ltr
It takes around 100+ miles to reset everything. That's driving in town, highway, AC, Cruise on/off, etc. Takes my Uncles chevy p/u around 300 miles to reset which is crazy.
I had a P0420 code. I have less than 500 miles on my exhaust, catalytic converter, sensors but changed my bank 1 sensor & the same code came back. Replaced the 2nd 02 sensor (just b4 the cat) now waiting on reset.
Scanner shows all 02 sensors reading correctly but still showing Cat, Inc. Fuel trims are almost perfect at -.03% on my almost 300k mile ZR2. If this Code comes back, I haven't a clue what it is. The Cat is a newly installed High flow Flowmaster Cat. Mechanics assured me it would not throw a code when I bought it & had them weld it in.
What happened bro?
Good explanation thanks
Thanks for watching and the feedback!
nice info dude
Great job well explain
Hi Maria, Thanks for watching and glad the video helped!
Thanks for the help
Thank you for watching!
Had an O2 sensor "not complete" status, wasn't sure what it meant but was sure it needed fixing beore the emission test. Sprayed the O2 connector with a contactor cleaner spray which cleared the status to "complete"..... passed the UK emission test 2nd time round, phew.
First time watching your videos. Right off the top I gotta say sweet progressive intro tunage haha
U😊
Very helpful Todd. I reset a code for a small evap leak just before trying to get smog and of course failed because I didn't know the IM thing. My vehicle is a Toyota sienna 2006. Don't know when it should return to ok
Try a new gas cap or filling the tank and then tighten the cap.
Thank you
I got new o2 sensors installed did the drive cycle and after that only 1 monitor was inc which needed a cold start but after 5 hours I just checked again to confirm the inc monitor and now it showed 3 inc monitor I didn't do the drive cycle again though is that normal for a monitor to change to inc to ok after resting a few hours?
There are usually two screens on some scanners that show monitors. Make sure you are looking at the right one.
There is "Monitors this key cycle" and "Monitors Since Last DTC cleared". Monitors since last DTC clear is the one you want to look at.
Ignore the Monitors this key cycle screen.
Does the car have to be on
So my code reader has green check marks INC N/A and red X. If I have a code, typically it shows me a red X on the associated monitor. I currently have green check marks on everything but I'm still getting P0420. Any ideas?
The codes and Monitors are not related to each other. So you could have a cat code and the monitor might be OK or Incomplete. Bottom line is if you got a "current" or "Active" code you got a problem that needs fixin.
Same problem here, did you fix it?
@@coolghoul9 I ended up replacing the catalytic converter. The dealership I bought the vehicle from half-assed the exhaust and put in a junk 90 day cat just to get it to pass long enough to sell it.
Check your states readiness area on the web page.. Example my car is a 2013 My evap system Never resets for some weird reason but they will pass me because it's only one of the monitoring systems I'm allowed one monitoring system not to be ready.. And you'll pass the inspection everything depends on your year of car and state... Even with the driving conditions it just doesn't reset for some reason but it has in the past by itself... It's interesting so I'm here looking to see if I can find a scanner that I could check to make sure before I go I need to get inspected... I did find a problem with a slight crack in the hose for the evap Vacuum hose it was hard as a rock you supposed to be rubber soft ... Eventually it will reset but I don't have the time if 1 system is not ready I'm not worried im getting it test anyway because they will still pass you.. Of course I want to check if it's just the one system that's not ready Which it probably is just the one system not ready.. Example I've replaced the battery about four months ago and I've driven thousands of miles and it hasn't reset .. I know some states don't allow anything to be not ready it all depends on the state... I know what the cause was but it's still not resetting even after I fixed it for some reason the car is a pain in the neck to reset Probably because I don't let the fuel Go low enough
In New York State it says 1 mointer is able to be not ready and still can be inspected ? Is this true
Yah just get a new 20k car.
Thats true. Most states allow any one to not be ready. CA allows only the EVAP to not be ready.
If you have a late 90s car to about 2000, u can still test with 4 out 5 monitors complete. I.e u only need 4 to show complete to get through the test and pass
So I have 1 code. It’s a p1000. It will not go away, and I haven’t cleared codes. I guess it could be in these readiness tests?
Yes some manufacturers have the ECU set a code until all the monitors are completed. Once they are complete the code goes away.
only my fuel system says not ready and i failed. I thought you were allowed up to 1 not ready to pass
What state?
I just took my car through inspection and it passed. I had a light come I just hooked up the code reader and it said no powertrain dtcs or freeze frame data stored in computer but at the top it says emissions related module and eva light flashing. What does that mean? If can help me any
EVA is for your Evaporative Emissions Monitor. If flashing that probably meant it was "Not Ready" in most all states you can pass a Emissions check with the EVAP monitor not ready so that is why you passed. The EVAP is usually the hardest one to get ready on most cars.
I got rejected! Said 3 things weren’t reading. And I got a new battery seven months ago and have driven the vehicle thousands of miles since and been both on highways and local roads. What could be the problem? Surely, all would have rest by now after thousands of miles. I’ve had no
Work done on my vehicle besides that new battery 7 months ago and two new front tires about two months ago. Makes no sense.
I've been rejected 5 times. Wanna self delete sometimes.
i love u
Mine said na for everything and I’ve been driving for a while now
What year is your car?
@@stevew9563 no worries I’ve already passed 😩😩
All mine say na n I keep failing 😭😭😭
@@blessedbycandy5501 - What year is you car? You are looking at your own scanner right?
@@stevew9563 2003
Just gonna drive until I get arrested.
So to cheat emissions , reset codes, then when they get the thing that says you reset the code you tell them you just put a new battery in the car?
Then you fail the test and send you to drive until the car next time finishes self test I guess? I/M ready is just a double check before you send the car to pass emission IMO
@@SickMy_Duck what is I/m” ?
Nope. I didn’t reset anything and I got rejected and they said I have to drive after resetting the codes or getting a new battery. Neither of which I’ve done. A new battery was 7 months ago. Have driven thousands of miles since
No, because those codes you just erased will read as "not ready" in the emissions system when they do the test. You have to drive a full drive cycle (can range from 50-100 miles depending on the car), given that the check engine light doesn't come back on in that time. Usually, if there are issues, the light WILL come back within the same day or a day later.
You said too much and gave little useful information with no fixes
Nope he answers the question I was looking for that no other video answered
I have 2019 car 🚗 27000 miles I put new batteries I goo to doing emissions the car 🚗 don not pass. I goo drive 160 miles goo back to emissions test car 🚗 pass 😂
Thank you
Thanks for watching!