Hey, thanks! I enjoyed making this video. I have several other videos about the 580CK tractor on my channel, perhaps they'll come in handy too. All the Best!
Thanks for your comment! I'm glad it has helped. There is less and less information out there on these old tractors and I like to post what I can. Take Care and thanks again for checking out my channel!
Yea, once you get it going, see what the clutch does and dial it in from there. I like your theory about the cam being from something else. Then the pin guide...If it works it's perfect right? What's the idea behind the hydraulic clutch anyhow? Easier clutch pedal? Mine is a regular clutch setup. It's not the worst thing I've ever driven but I could see it getting tiring if there were a lot of back and forth such as running the loader all day long.
A shuttle clutch works a bit different than a regular clutch. There is no need to push the clutch pedal to change from forward to reverse, just move the control lever on the steering column. If you are going forward and want to reverse, just throw the shifter in reverse. The clutch pedal is only used when you want to manually move the stick shift from, let's say 2nd gear to third, or to 4th. All the shifter speeds are available in both directions. I think they came up with this design to make it quicker to load material,: move up to a pile of earth, back up quick, advance to the truck to dump, and so on, simply by thowing the shifter forward and back. Inside the shuttle clutch, there are steels and frictions packs for both forward and reverse. When hydraulic fluid is directed to one or the other, it compresses the clutch pack engaging the direction. Very similar to the steels and frictions in an ordinary automatic transmission. This thing even has a torque converter bolted to the engine flywheel. I'm still learning about it, but that's the general principle of operation. Yes, the linkages are a bit antique and seem to me to be the earliest prototype that someone came up with in the shop. Instead of refining that design, they just threw that prototype into mass production. That's where the word "Haywire" comes from. A farmer just fixing something quick to get by. Thanks for watching!!
@@EverydayProjects I was in sort of a trade school and I operated a 1979 580C. That one had no clutch at all. Just your forward and reverse lever on the column with a 4 speed gear selector on the floor. I don't know if it was supposed to be, but we'd upshift by putting the column shift into neutral, grab another gear, put the column back to Forward. That one was a torque converter as well. On my 67, I don't think you can shift gears while moving at all. I've tried it and a few times I've managed it but it sure doesn't seem good on it so I don't do it anymore. I can get all four gears either direction but it's nearly helpless in 4th gear. The cam and guide are certainly not elegant solutions but if it works as expected I wouldn't mind. If something happens to snap your guide it's not too hard to make one on the fly. Is it possible that was a replacement someone made? I've heard these compared to the GM Squarebody of the tractor world. Honestly I'm kind of surprised they came out with a shuttle type clutch so early on. Might have been in the works to remove the clutch pedal altogether pretty soon so they just used whatever parts to make it work until they got rid of the clutch pedal later on.
@@heliarche Like I say, I'm new to these too, but the clutch linkage seems to be factory. Maybe designed as a shortcut knowing they'd be getting rid of the design soon. I looked on UA-cam for "Shuttle Shift" and see how it operates (at least on other tractors, not a CASE). Here it is: ua-cam.com/video/tkJspGYNU64/v-deo.html I think you'd only need to step on the clutch to pause moving forward or reverse, or change gears. The brake pedals are supposed to be adjusted to engage at the same time the shuttle clutch is pressed down. Leads me to believe that unless you wanted to stop, all you need to do is throw the shifter back and forth. Hopefully we'll get to see that happen here someday!
@@EverydayProjects Do you have any idea why it would slightly grind going into gear, it appears the rod is going all the way into the control when the clutch is pressed. Seems to grind more when warmed up?
Awesome mate thank you. I’m having a problem with changing gears while engine is running. Can’t change (they grind even though clutch is depressed. However if I start in gear with clutch depressed, then let clutch go, it engages. Any ideas on what might be happening. Got a 580b ck.
Great video! I am looking into getting one of these and the guy says it will go into forward but not reverse, I’m wondering if this hydraulic spool valve is stuck not allowing it to go into reverse? Do you have any thoughts on that?
It could very well be that the spool valves are stuck. Start by checking the linkage to the dashboard selector lever. Make sure you can get the full range of motion(forward-Reverse). Have a helper watch the spool. You should feel 3 distinct detents. It won't move much, maybe and inch total but that's where I'd start. The clutch pedal on these tractors isn't an actual clutch. It is another spool valve that dumps fluid back to the reservoir and to the shuttle. Check that spool for freedom of movement too. If that checks out, make sure you have the correct level and type of fluid in the shuttle clutch. The spool valve assemble isn't that complicated and parts are still available (some at CASE and also at one of the vintage tractor websites). Beyond that Iam fairly new to this tractor too so I wouldn't know what else to check. If anyone has an idea, post it in this thread. Thanks for watching and I hope it helped!
Got same backhoe,different problem?Gearshift on right dash/ 1st/second/3rd/4th wont shift into 3rd or4th?Can do it with pry bar in linkage works fine?Cant find diagram on linkage,lubed everything??Shuttle forward and reverse is fine???Help please!!
Take the cover off the manual transmission and inspect the forks inside the cover and the gears. Look for anything that is binding, worn or damaged. I'll bet there is something in there that isn't as it should be.
You'll need a TCH rated "Universal Tractor Fluid" such as HY TRAN (it's the best). Look for oils that have the TCH rating. I'm using Shell Rotella Tractor fluid that is rated as TCH equivalent. My '68 580CK takes just under 5 gallons to fill the torque tube to the fill mark on the dipstick (which is the mark about 1 inch from the bottom of the dipstick (look for the mark on your dipstick). You may want to fill and drain with the proper fluid before topping up to get the current oil out of the inner workings. Fill to the mark, run the tractor for several minutes, drain and discard the new oil then refill. Good Luck!
@@EverydayProjects If I put the gear shift in neutral and the shuttle in neutral, the oil pressure goes to 140 and makes a whining noise. I am having slipping problems in F or R. as it warms up is gets better. Any ideas?
@@paullandry2697 Maybe the clutch pack in the shuttle clutch is worn. If you remove the shuttle clutch cover you will be able to see the clutch disks. I haven't had that apart so I cannot advise on how to proceed but I think you'll have to split the tractor to get the clutch pack out.
I have the original, Case manual and this was the measurement. Who knows, different versions or years may have had different distances. Thanks for watching. Have you subscribed? It's FREE and there will be more tractor videos coming along. Thanks again!
I learned more from you in a few minutes than hours of looking throughout the internet
Thanks. Glad to help. I have several other videos on my channel about my '68 Case 580CK Backhoe. Hope to see you again!
You’re one of the few on youtube that does an awesome job of explaining how things work. Just great
Thank you, that means a lot. I try to explain things the way I see them. I’m glad my videos help.
Superb presentation of the information. Thank you.
Hey, thanks! I enjoyed making this video. I have several other videos about the 580CK tractor on my channel, perhaps they'll come in handy too. All the Best!
Très bien expliquer pour les deux vidéo
Merci beaucoup, Claude. Je suis heureux que les informations présentées vous sont utiles et même divertissantes.
Very well explained . Thanks
Thanks for your comment! I'm glad it has helped. There is less and less information out there on these old tractors and I like to post what I can. Take Care and thanks again for checking out my channel!
Awesome job, thank you for making this video.
You are very welcome. Glad it helped.
Thanks much
You're welcome! I hope you check out my other videos on my '68 Case 580CK. Here's one to get you started: ua-cam.com/video/icQnGoL21fM/v-deo.html
Yea, once you get it going, see what the clutch does and dial it in from there. I like your theory about the cam being from something else. Then the pin guide...If it works it's perfect right? What's the idea behind the hydraulic clutch anyhow? Easier clutch pedal? Mine is a regular clutch setup. It's not the worst thing I've ever driven but I could see it getting tiring if there were a lot of back and forth such as running the loader all day long.
A shuttle clutch works a bit different than a regular clutch. There is no need to push the clutch pedal to change from forward to reverse, just move the control lever on the steering column. If you are going forward and want to reverse, just throw the shifter in reverse. The clutch pedal is only used when you want to manually move the stick shift from, let's say 2nd gear to third, or to 4th. All the shifter speeds are available in both directions. I think they came up with this design to make it quicker to load material,: move up to a pile of earth, back up quick, advance to the truck to dump, and so on, simply by thowing the shifter forward and back. Inside the shuttle clutch, there are steels and frictions packs for both forward and reverse. When hydraulic fluid is directed to one or the other, it compresses the clutch pack engaging the direction. Very similar to the steels and frictions in an ordinary automatic transmission. This thing even has a torque converter bolted to the engine flywheel. I'm still learning about it, but that's the general principle of operation.
Yes, the linkages are a bit antique and seem to me to be the earliest prototype that someone came up with in the shop. Instead of refining that design, they just threw that prototype into mass production. That's where the word "Haywire" comes from. A farmer just fixing something quick to get by. Thanks for watching!!
@@EverydayProjects I was in sort of a trade school and I operated a 1979 580C. That one had no clutch at all. Just your forward and reverse lever on the column with a 4 speed gear selector on the floor. I don't know if it was supposed to be, but we'd upshift by putting the column shift into neutral, grab another gear, put the column back to Forward. That one was a torque converter as well. On my 67, I don't think you can shift gears while moving at all. I've tried it and a few times I've managed it but it sure doesn't seem good on it so I don't do it anymore. I can get all four gears either direction but it's nearly helpless in 4th gear.
The cam and guide are certainly not elegant solutions but if it works as expected I wouldn't mind. If something happens to snap your guide it's not too hard to make one on the fly. Is it possible that was a replacement someone made? I've heard these compared to the GM Squarebody of the tractor world. Honestly I'm kind of surprised they came out with a shuttle type clutch so early on. Might have been in the works to remove the clutch pedal altogether pretty soon so they just used whatever parts to make it work until they got rid of the clutch pedal later on.
@@heliarche Like I say, I'm new to these too, but the clutch linkage seems to be factory. Maybe designed as a shortcut knowing they'd be getting rid of the design soon. I looked on UA-cam for "Shuttle Shift" and see how it operates (at least on other tractors, not a CASE). Here it is:
ua-cam.com/video/tkJspGYNU64/v-deo.html
I think you'd only need to step on the clutch to pause moving forward or reverse, or change gears. The brake pedals are supposed to be adjusted to engage at the same time the shuttle clutch is pressed down. Leads me to believe that unless you wanted to stop, all you need to do is throw the shifter back and forth. Hopefully we'll get to see that happen here someday!
@@EverydayProjects You'll get there! It looks daunting right now but one bite at a time!
@@EverydayProjects Do you have any idea why it would slightly grind going into gear, it appears the rod is going all the way into the control when the clutch is pressed. Seems to grind more when warmed up?
Awesome mate thank you. I’m having a problem with changing gears while engine is running. Can’t change (they grind even though clutch is depressed. However if I start in gear with clutch depressed, then let clutch go, it engages. Any ideas on what might be happening. Got a 580b ck.
Hey me too! Would love to know what's causing the grinding. Any adjustments? Can't seem to find it mentioned in the shop manuals
Great video! I am looking into getting one of these and the guy says it will go into forward but not reverse, I’m wondering if this hydraulic spool valve is stuck not allowing it to go into reverse? Do you have any thoughts on that?
It could very well be that the spool valves are stuck. Start by checking the linkage to the dashboard selector lever. Make sure you can get the full range of motion(forward-Reverse). Have a helper watch the spool. You should feel 3 distinct detents. It won't move much, maybe and inch total but that's where I'd start. The clutch pedal on these tractors isn't an actual clutch. It is another spool valve that dumps fluid back to the reservoir and to the shuttle. Check that spool for freedom of movement too. If that checks out, make sure you have the correct level and type of fluid in the shuttle clutch. The spool valve assemble isn't that complicated and parts are still available (some at CASE and also at one of the vintage tractor websites). Beyond that Iam fairly new to this tractor too so I wouldn't know what else to check. If anyone has an idea, post it in this thread. Thanks for watching and I hope it helped!
Maybe some of my other videos on this topic can help:
ua-cam.com/video/cTtPWycwe-w/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/xh0N1opBmdQ/v-deo.html 😀
Got same backhoe,different problem?Gearshift on right dash/ 1st/second/3rd/4th wont shift into 3rd or4th?Can do it with pry bar in linkage works fine?Cant find diagram on linkage,lubed everything??Shuttle forward and reverse is fine???Help please!!
Take the cover off the manual transmission and inspect the forks inside the cover and the gears. Look for anything that is binding, worn or damaged. I'll bet there is something in there that isn't as it should be.
What fluid type and qty is required in the torque converter fill port. I cant find the right answer anywhere. Getting a Whinning sound in neutral.
You'll need a TCH rated "Universal Tractor Fluid" such as HY TRAN (it's the best). Look for oils that have the TCH rating. I'm using Shell Rotella Tractor fluid that is rated as TCH equivalent. My '68 580CK takes just under 5 gallons to fill the torque tube to the fill mark on the dipstick (which is the mark about 1 inch from the bottom of the dipstick (look for the mark on your dipstick). You may want to fill and drain with the proper fluid before topping up to get the current oil out of the inner workings. Fill to the mark, run the tractor for several minutes, drain and discard the new oil then refill. Good Luck!
@@EverydayProjects If I put the gear shift in neutral and the shuttle in neutral, the oil pressure goes to 140 and makes a whining noise. I am having slipping problems in F or R. as it warms up is gets better. Any ideas?
@@paullandry2697 Maybe the clutch pack in the shuttle clutch is worn. If you remove the shuttle clutch cover you will be able to see the clutch disks. I haven't had that apart so I cannot advise on how to proceed but I think you'll have to split the tractor to get the clutch pack out.
My bearing went bad replaced with junkyard part
Was that the bearing that rides in the slot on the cam? I think Case might still sell them
12:08 Thank you! The PDF manual that I have says that the distance between the pin and the bolt is 3.575" and is obviously wrong.
I have the original, Case manual and this was the measurement. Who knows, different versions or years may have had different distances. Thanks for watching. Have you subscribed? It's FREE and there will be more tractor videos coming along. Thanks again!