By comparison, a Purcell prussik tied with 7mm nylon cord held a factor 2 fall with a peak load 12.9 kN (note how much lower than the peak load for the PAS in a factor 1 fall).
Daisy chains and Other Lanyards Mike Gibbs Rigging for Rescue Ouray, CO in a paper presented to the International Technical Rescue Symposium Ft. Collins, CO (2005) Test weight: 100 kg (about 220 lbs---note that UIAA standard for an individual climber is 80 kg, about 176 lbs. Gibbs was interested in rescue loads). Metolius PAS Factor 1 fall: caught with peak load of 19.2 kN Factor 1.25 fall: broke
I forgot to add, use a short piece of dynamic climbing rope (not that accessory crap). The dynamic benefit is a percentage, usually about 30%. So, when the static line breaks, the dynamic line will stretch, further absorbing, reducing the load greatly. The static line will break long before the dynamic reached peak stretch. Always have 2, he is wrong for suggesting using only this. Also note the dynamic rope properties prevent it from reaching peak so easily. See also my comments below.
Why don't you tie the double fisherman's knot after the prusik? This would make it easier to feed the ends through the wrap and also stop the rope kinking and twisting when it is made up.
I hope that clearified some. More importantly I recomend having both a dynamic back up and a static anchor. The static will keep you stable for whatever your task is and the dynamic will hold when the the static breaks. Others use 2 static daisies or runners. 24 kn sounds like a lot (aprox 5k lbs) but you can generate that in less than 2 ft!!! Also note that 24kn does not stack. One factor 1.25 fall and at least one loop breaks. Climb safe everyone.
I'm a noob, but I use one of these as an personal anchor has other uses also. I'm on my way today to buy a Metolius personal anchor, primarily to extend rappel device, has other uses also. Sterling rope makes one that will shock load. I thought the so called " Daisy Chains" were unsafe as each loop would hold body weight only? But what does the noob know .
By comparison, a Purcell prussik tied with 7mm nylon cord held a factor 2 fall with a peak load 12.9 kN (note how much lower than the peak load for the PAS in a factor 1 fall).
In answer to question below a Fisherman knot is a termination knot, Figure 8 is a stopper knot.
I use one of these as a personal anchor on 8mm accessory cord. works great.
I dont think I would go through the hassle of this for acceding, but it works great in place of a daisy chain. auto adjusts.
lost what you were doing to make the Prusik when you lifted out of the frame
Daisy chains and Other Lanyards
Mike Gibbs
Rigging for Rescue
Ouray, CO
in a paper presented to the
International Technical Rescue Symposium
Ft. Collins, CO (2005)
Test weight: 100 kg (about 220 lbs---note that UIAA standard for an individual climber is 80 kg, about 176 lbs. Gibbs was interested in rescue loads).
Metolius PAS
Factor 1 fall: caught with peak load of 19.2 kN
Factor 1.25 fall: broke
Hey thanks! This video was really helpful.
Does anyone know if a fishermans knot the same as a stopper knot?
This is a really clear video, well made. Thanks man!
I forgot to add, use a short piece of dynamic climbing rope (not that accessory crap). The dynamic benefit is a percentage, usually about 30%. So, when the static line breaks, the dynamic line will stretch, further absorbing, reducing the load greatly. The static line will break long before the dynamic reached peak stretch. Always have 2, he is wrong for suggesting using only this. Also note the dynamic rope properties prevent it from reaching peak so easily. See also my comments below.
can you use this in place of a carabener if you dont have one?, to tie to a swiss seat?
ME ENCANTA ESTE NUDO! PARA ECUAIZAR CANASTOS ES FIELTE! GRACIAS POR COMPARTIRLO
Why don't you tie the double fisherman's knot after the prusik? This would make it easier to feed the ends through the wrap and also stop the rope kinking and twisting when it is made up.
How long is that cord?
The Prusik on the climbing rope only has 2 loops.
Sick, thank you!
I hope that clearified some. More importantly I recomend having both a dynamic back up and a static anchor. The static will keep you stable for whatever your task is and the dynamic will hold when the the static breaks. Others use 2 static daisies or runners. 24 kn sounds like a lot (aprox 5k lbs) but you can generate that in less than 2 ft!!! Also note that 24kn does not stack. One factor 1.25 fall and at least one loop breaks. Climb safe everyone.
First the Prusik,
My climber has become so much easier once I eliminated everything that made my climbing easier.
see below.
a double fishermans is just two stopper knots stopping each other. lol
buenazoooooooo
This reduses load, making your fall a much lower load. Here is what some one who can explain better:
AHA!!! took me a few tries but I got, thanks!!
just use a "DAISY CHAIN FOR LENGTH"
I'm a noob, but I use one of these as an personal anchor has other uses also. I'm on my way today to buy a Metolius personal anchor, primarily to extend rappel device, has other uses also. Sterling rope makes one that will shock load. I thought the so called " Daisy Chains" were unsafe as each loop would hold body weight only? But what does the noob know .
Daisy Chains only have full strength end to end. Personal anchors are the way to go. Beal and Petzel have come out with dynamic ones recently too.
As a more experience climber you can use this as a home made screamer