I thought I was just a failure. I've been using the jig for little over two years and at first it worked. But now I can't get my scythe nowhere near sharp enough and was about to give up until I found this video. I just ordered an anvil and can't wait to try again. Thank you
I encountered the same phenomenon. Guess this must have to do with the metal getting hardened when wrought. The jig is still useful to even out what I get from the freehand peening, once the bevel has gotten thinner.
@@samueldougoud3289 I can see how that would help. I've had a hard time thinning out some blades with only the jig. Thanks for another point of view in my lifetime how to peen journey.
Thank you for the video, I love my old scythe, had it for fourty years or more, and now I know more about it, I don't know how hard the steel is so I'll probably skip the peening, I just touch it up with a stone and she works pretty good.
Thank you for the very good video on peening !!!! My neighbours always stare at me when I bring my scythe out to cut and trim my lawn. I love doing it and I like to workout as well.
That was neat to see Rosie at the end, how her stroke improved noticeably within the few seconds she gave it a try. It is a skill but it comes to those who care!
Our ancestors had to hitting it much faster because we have proverb in my language, if there is cold and you clicking with teeths we calling it "he is hitting scythe" :-)
Very cool. My wife and I have been mowing with scythes for a few years now; something of a curiosity to folks driving by, but we really enjoy it. I'm going to be paying closer attention to my tools after watching this!
Outstanding detail and in depth knowledge sharing. Thanks. May I suggest just a little more attention be given to focus and camera movement. Still a great video.
Richard Knight...agree, good info and here is another vid ua-cam.com/video/VVn1kiZnldQ/v-deo.html...I guess I'm just a grummy old man...vlogers, you might want to check into getting a windsock for the mic....
Peening thins/draws and harden the edge of a blade. In my country we don't take the blade of the handle when peening. When peening we half lay on the ground, one leg supports the handle, one hand holds the blade, and one hand strikes the very edge of the blade with hammer mainly whit sharper side. The blade in the process should be in the right position (down side of the blade toward the ground), and not the opposite like in this video.
@RocketCityGardener I'd go with thin brass or copper; the iron won't cut it through like it would the leather, and the soft metal won't blunt the edge of the iron.
Nice video, but I do see one error. On the jig, (ua-cam.com/video/vn70UfJcULI/v-deo.html) the cap on the left (viewer's perspective) is the finishing cap that works up close to the edge, while the one on the right is the first one to use and works the metal a little bit back from the edge of the blade. I think that using them in reverse is why you were getting a ridge.
I recently bought a used scythe off Craigslist, which I want to be able to use efficiently. This has a steam bent snathe with a grass blade. The only mark on the blade is "Bonita." I bought a peening jig, but that has no observable effect on sharpening the blade that I can see. I understand that this may be an American scythe blade which is harder than European blades that are sharpened with peening. I have sharpened this on a grinder and then filed it carefully to sharpen it. That seems to be effective, but if it's not designed to be peened, is that the proper way to sharpen it? Any comments would be welcome. I was walking around my neighborhood looking for a suitable place to practice scything a few weeks ago. I was stopped by a construction worker who was working on building houses. He had seen me carrying my scythe (hard to hide!) and asked me about it. It turns out he was born and raised in the USSR, in Russia near the Ukrainean border, and was very familiar with scythes. He sniffed at my sharpening job at the time, which I'm sure deserved it. Too bad he's not available as a scythe instructor and coach!
I'm totally confused. I see majority of peening vids. working top of blade. Some peen underside. Can't find any specific info on which is correct method, if there is one. Anyone care to comment? Thanks.
At first I was like " What the fuck, come on, just use a progression of stones" and then I thought wait, peening the edge is not just drawing out and thinning the edge but hardening it and giving the Scythe better edge retention, This is actually really smart. Good thing I let my brain go for a bit before I ended up sounding like an asshole.
My neighbour scythes a tractor trailer full each day and has a sort of press that peines the edge for him. I use mine daily to feed bunnies. I need to piene it now as after a year it's hard to keep sharp. Thanks for the video
Really nice. I think I just messed my scythe up. I was mowing really well and enjoying it. I mowed some rocks maybe and some small trees. And had a few small tears - so quit doing that when I noticed them. Anyway, I filed the scythe a bit and then peened it with my peening jig. It doesn't mow now. I can barely get through the clover and the grass just lays down and then pops back up. Super frustrating. I tried opening the hafting angle - didn't think that would help. Very interesting about pivoting around the handle and watching what happens to the blade - 3 or four fingers. Maybe I'm having the problem you alluded to about just having the peening jig versus having an anvil and appropriate hammer. I was wondering if I was changing the angle of the blade, because it seems like I can tip the blade to curl up more or be more flat (if that makes sense?). As you go from the rib to the sharp edge of the blade. I'm really beside myself because I have a lot to mow. I hope to figure this out.
You can just the same, but you will need to use the narrow part of hammer on flat anvil. You need that small surface area on the anvil or hammer to draw out the metal.
Thanks for this video! I was just given a rusty scythe blade today, I worked on it with steel wool and some sand-paper and it looks great! It is an Austrian blade (quite old I think) but as it quite sharp with very small dings I think it will be good. Now to make a snath, not sure what kind of wood, we have fir, hemlock, spruce and alder on our land but I am thinking of using arbutus or possible ocean-spray, dunno, but any insight would be appreciated. Thanks again!
this is very wrong. Carbon steel is a very broad term, it encompasses steel from 1 to 150 points carbon 1001-1150. You can bake a either very brittle tool to a spring, and everything in between with carbon steel.
Lovely video. Can I ask, how do you START with a new blade, that couldn't be called just 'blunt' but has a thick, flat slab of a spine about 2mm thick where the blade should be?? Do you file it all down with a deep band (1cm back into the blade)? Or do you start coarse peening immediately??
a wonder if a couple small squares of leather on those metal position holders would keep you from having to worry about them dulling your freshly peened surface.
Could i Give you a tip, before you remove a finger,the practice used in the UK, Dated 1600 is,,First get the right stone,Flat stones are Not for This tool, the correct type are,12" long X 1 1/2" round , taperd to 1" each end,like a double ended parsnip, Hold one end Say in your right hand,with the other end pointing back at your wrist, lay the stone on top of the blade, to sharpen, you will not cut your fingers, good cuting..
You are the first one which I see sharpening against the edge. I always wondered, why a scythe should be sharpened away from the edge, what you never would do with a knife or an axe, never. I am not a scientist, but with sharpening you are laying and smoothing the burrs and littel tips I think. As a child I sharpened an axe of my grandfather the wrong way and it didn´t cut anything afterwards, so he showed me how to do it right. So, if you are "laying" the metal surface AGAINST the cutting direction it won´t work so well, in my opinion. Why should that be different with scythes?
I need a long handled scythe to chop some weeds down on a steep bank by my creek that I can't get to...weed wackers and mowers are a no go on the bank...where would I get a good quality scythe?
Great to see, but I have to disagree slightly, you WILL eventually need to renew the primary bevel and do more than 1 or 2 lines away from the edge as the metal is gradually used. I peen after 2 hours intensive mowing ( about 1000m2) I would also advance the hafting angles significantly more to reduce any need to twist excessively while mowing
The difference in the blade tip after peening was noticable. How many peening sessions do you think a blade would last? This looks like just the ticket for the patches of monster weeds with 1/2" stocks I need to cut from time to time. Thanks for posting.
Can anyone direct me to a site or some other resource for choosing and sizing a scythe? i have only a very old one with a pretty heavy curved wooden snath that was here when we bought this old farm. Looking for something that will allow me to drop hay with minimum discomfort. Thanks..
Drill a hole in the log. I used two different bits because the tang on the anvil is tapered. Then as above drive the anvil into the log. Don't drive it in to hard or you will have a problem getting it out.
Blade would be too hard (chipping would occur). The sword would have to be annealed first (makes the steel soft again), than hammered into shape (with heat is preferred to prevent micro-cracks) and then it needs to be hardened and tempered again to give the steel its old properties back. Much easier to use a stone.... ;-)
Some blades (European, Austrian) are made to be peened, some (American and UK) are made to be ground sharp. If peening does nothing to the blade but leaves dents/marks on your anvil, then you have a hardened steel blade and should grind it sharp.
I would hate for people to attempt to peen based only on this video. Peter Vido’s information at Scythe Connection dot com is highly recommended. The current version of a peening jig by Fux is vastly superior to the antiquated version shown here. It does not cause the “drop off” you reference. Freehand peening is extremely difficult to learn without personal instruction. I suspect that improper peening ruins more blades than all other causes combined. David Tresemer’s peening instructions in “The Scythe Book” is beyond horrible.
I've seen some awesome peening machine (austrian made) at the krameterhof. They are amazing! With the draw of the lever, two anvil-jaws just peen it really quickly!
please look up at least some basic metallurgy before making a comment like that. as PaulkyArcher said carbon steel encompasses a large number of different types of steel(all of them with carbon as the major alloying element) and to add have you ever heard of tempering? it is a process of reheating a hardened steel tool( or other steel object ) after hardening to reduce brittleness and increase toughness at the loss of some hardness
You are gradually stoning off what you peen. It should work indefinitely (or at least until you've stoned off a significant amount of metal and no longer want to use the scythe - and that should be a very long time).
I just picked one up at a yardsale for $5. It needs restored, and seems to be atleast partly homemade, but there it was when I was looking for it. :) I've often seen them at fleamarkets too... I see them more in rural areas than in the city. I've found them online, (through a thread @ permies.com ) new, but they are in the hundred/s dollars + range...
I thought I was just a failure. I've been using the jig for little over two years and at first it worked. But now I can't get my scythe nowhere near sharp enough and was about to give up until I found this video. I just ordered an anvil and can't wait to try again. Thank you
I encountered the same phenomenon. Guess this must have to do with the metal getting hardened when wrought. The jig is still useful to even out what I get from the freehand peening, once the bevel has gotten thinner.
@@samueldougoud3289 I can see how that would help. I've had a hard time thinning out some blades with only the jig. Thanks for another point of view in my lifetime how to peen journey.
Probably one of the best explanations and methodology to date.
I'm surprised I hadn't run into this video before.
Thank you and KUDOS!
thanks to my patreon peeps for getting my youtube engine running again www.patreon.com/pwvids
Thank you for the video, I love my old scythe, had it for fourty years or more, and now I know more about it, I don't know how hard the steel is so I'll probably skip the peening, I just touch it up with a stone and she works pretty good.
Thank you for the very good video on peening !!!! My neighbours always stare at me when I bring my scythe out to cut and trim my lawn. I love doing it and I like to workout as well.
we just now started our rocket ovens kickstarter www.kickstarter.com/projects/paulwheaton/rocket-ovens-feature-length-documentary?ref=265vn9
That was neat to see Rosie at the end, how her stroke improved noticeably within the few seconds she gave it a try. It is a skill but it comes to those who care!
I really like everything this guy has had to share. He is informative and easy to understand.
@pocketmeadowfarm yeah - i have a video of him scything around a barrel
Our ancestors had to hitting it much faster because we have proverb in my language, if there is cold and you clicking with teeths we calling it "he is hitting scythe" :-)
Haha, neat. I have never heard that saying before. Thanks for sharing. Where are you from?
@@ericmorrell806 From Czech Republic
Very cool. My wife and I have been mowing with scythes for a few years now; something of a curiosity to folks driving by, but we really enjoy it. I'm going to be paying closer attention to my tools after watching this!
Молодцы, слышал что в Германии запрещено косить мотокосой в выходной, рано утром и поздно вечером.
Outstanding detail and in depth knowledge sharing. Thanks. May I suggest just a little more attention be given to focus and camera movement. Still a great video.
Richard Knight...agree, good info and here is another vid ua-cam.com/video/VVn1kiZnldQ/v-deo.html...I guess I'm just a grummy old man...vlogers, you might want to check into getting a windsock for the mic....
You answered a ton of questions for me, thank you very much for this video.
Peening thins/draws and harden the edge of a blade. In my country we don't take the blade of the handle when peening.
When peening we half lay on the ground, one leg supports the handle, one hand holds the blade, and one hand strikes the very edge of the blade with hammer mainly whit sharper side. The blade in the process should be in the right position (down side of the blade toward the ground), and not the opposite like in this video.
I can confirm this. Also, some people like to peen a bit deeper into the blade than shown here.
My dad gifted me with an antique scythe. It is on original wood handle. However, it is rusted. What is best way to treat it?
Good info! I have a really rusty scythe I am going to try to restore! This will be helpful!
@RocketCityGardener I'd go with thin brass or copper; the iron won't cut it through like it would the leather, and the soft metal won't blunt the edge of the iron.
Oh great vid. But I got the square peening thing. CANT find any video on how to use it. Bang in the middle or the edge? Hope for answer thx
Nice video, but I do see one error. On the jig, (ua-cam.com/video/vn70UfJcULI/v-deo.html) the cap on the left (viewer's perspective) is the finishing cap that works up close to the edge, while the one on the right is the first one to use and works the metal a little bit back from the edge of the blade. I think that using them in reverse is why you were getting a ridge.
I recently bought a used scythe off Craigslist, which I want to be able to use efficiently.
This has a steam bent snathe with a grass blade. The only mark on the blade is "Bonita."
I bought a peening jig, but that has no observable effect on sharpening the blade that I can see. I understand that this may be an American scythe blade which is harder than European blades that are sharpened with peening.
I have sharpened this on a grinder and then filed it carefully to sharpen it. That seems to be effective, but if it's not designed to be peened, is that the proper way to sharpen it?
Any comments would be welcome.
I was walking around my neighborhood looking for a suitable place to practice scything a few weeks ago. I was stopped by a construction worker who was working on building houses. He had seen me carrying my scythe (hard to hide!) and asked me about it. It turns out he was born and raised in the USSR, in Russia near the Ukrainean border, and was very familiar with scythes. He sniffed at my sharpening job at the time, which I'm sure deserved it.
Too bad he's not available as a scythe instructor and coach!
I'm totally confused. I see majority of peening vids. working top of blade. Some peen underside. Can't find any specific info on which is correct method, if there is one. Anyone care to comment? Thanks.
Thank you for this video! Just bought my first scythe.
I'm definitely going to bleed- I can bleed doing not sharp stuff. Peen bleeding will be new to me!
At first I was like " What the fuck, come on, just use a progression of stones" and then I thought wait, peening the edge is not just drawing out and thinning the edge but hardening it and giving the Scythe better edge retention, This is actually really smart. Good thing I let my brain go for a bit before I ended up sounding like an asshole.
Great vid now I know how to sharpen my scythe 😁 love the cow sound effects in the background 🐄😄
My neighbour scythes a tractor trailer full each day and has a sort of press that peines the edge for him.
I use mine daily to feed bunnies. I need to piene it now as after a year it's hard to keep sharp. Thanks for the video
Really nice. I think I just messed my scythe up. I was mowing really well and enjoying it. I mowed some rocks maybe and some small trees. And had a few small tears - so quit doing that when I noticed them. Anyway, I filed the scythe a bit and then peened it with my peening jig. It doesn't mow now. I can barely get through the clover and the grass just lays down and then pops back up. Super frustrating. I tried opening the hafting angle - didn't think that would help. Very interesting about pivoting around the handle and watching what happens to the blade - 3 or four fingers. Maybe I'm having the problem you alluded to about just having the peening jig versus having an anvil and appropriate hammer. I was wondering if I was changing the angle of the blade, because it seems like I can tip the blade to curl up more or be more flat (if that makes sense?). As you go from the rib to the sharp edge of the blade. I'm really beside myself because I have a lot to mow. I hope to figure this out.
Omg you can hear how fine and quality that hining stone is
I have a question if you're still around about peening. Can you get a razor sharp edge with a wide faced anvil, or does it have to be the narrow?
You can just the same, but you will need to use the narrow part of hammer on flat anvil. You need that small surface area on the anvil or hammer to draw out the metal.
Thanks for this video! I was just given a rusty scythe blade today, I worked on it with steel wool and some sand-paper and it looks great! It is an Austrian blade (quite old I think) but as it quite sharp with very small dings I think it will be good. Now to make a snath, not sure what kind of wood, we have fir, hemlock, spruce and alder on our land but I am thinking of using arbutus or possible ocean-spray, dunno, but any insight would be appreciated. Thanks again!
I'm considering making an a frame snath. Seems simpler for a beginner.
this is very wrong. Carbon steel is a very broad term, it encompasses steel from 1 to 150 points carbon 1001-1150. You can bake a either very brittle tool to a spring, and everything in between with carbon steel.
Lovely video. Can I ask, how do you START with a new blade, that couldn't be called just 'blunt' but has a thick, flat slab of a spine about 2mm thick where the blade should be?? Do you file it all down with a deep band (1cm back into the blade)? Or do you start coarse peening immediately??
Where is the best place to get a peening anvil and hammer?
a wonder if a couple small squares of leather on those metal position holders would keep you from having to worry about them dulling your freshly peened surface.
Could i Give you a tip, before you remove a finger,the practice used in the UK, Dated 1600
is,,First get the right stone,Flat stones are Not for This tool,
the correct type are,12" long X 1 1/2" round , taperd to 1" each end,like a double ended parsnip,
Hold one end Say in your right hand,with the other end pointing back at your wrist, lay the stone on top of the blade, to sharpen,
you will not cut your fingers, good cuting..
You are the first one which I see sharpening against the edge.
I always wondered, why a scythe should be sharpened away from the edge, what you never would do with a knife or an axe, never.
I am not a scientist, but with sharpening you are laying and smoothing the burrs and littel tips I think.
As a child I sharpened an axe of my grandfather the wrong way and it didn´t cut anything afterwards, so he showed me how to do it right.
So, if you are "laying" the metal surface AGAINST the cutting direction it won´t work so well, in my opinion.
Why should that be different with scythes?
So where can I buy one of those anvils with the jig & support?
scythesupply.com
why is this so satisfying to watch for me?... like a tingly primitive satisfaction
Preparing for battle.
I don't have enough grass to scythe so I spend my free time watching other people scythe. That SOUND.
I need a long handled scythe to chop some weeds down on a steep bank by my creek that I can't get to...weed wackers and mowers are a no go on the bank...where would I get a good quality scythe?
Patrick King
A Lehman's catalog would be a start. They get theirs from Amish and Austrian manufacturers. Pricy but good quality.
Scythe Supply , scythesupply.com
Great to see, but I have to disagree slightly, you WILL eventually need to renew the primary bevel and do more than 1 or 2 lines away from the edge as the metal is gradually used. I peen after 2 hours intensive mowing ( about 1000m2)
I would also advance the hafting angles significantly more to reduce any need to twist excessively while mowing
Can you do a video on how to adjust your scythe so you aren’t stooping and how to properly use one?
I need to find a company that would supply a peening anvil and a chainsaw stump vice ...any ideas...preferably in Europe
@roargathor You can't peen high carbon steel. Also, it is so thin i believe it would chip very easily.
Awesome! I know generally swords were polished to take out dings, but I may try it eventually
Thank you for the tutorial. Well presented.
The difference in the blade tip after peening was noticable. How many peening sessions do you think a blade would last? This looks like just the ticket for the patches of monster weeds with 1/2" stocks I need to cut from time to time. Thanks for posting.
Nice video. I'm at the stage where I'm going to switch from a peening jig to an anvil.
I really found this to be useful information. I wonder if you do the same with machetes?
I made my own scythe, and this is whats missing, it’s sharp but cutting really short grass is the problem this must be it the peening
Excellent video
Does peening also 'work harden' the scythe's cutting edge and sustain sharpness?
Really clear and helpful guys..thanks.
Very good information...I suppose this would work the same on a sickle.
Great video explains a lot thank you for the information
Work hardens the edge via cold working,.......... Nice trick to avoid heat treating
Thanks for the demonstration, and for sharing your very useful advice.
Paul
Great vid, where do you get the tools for peening?
Can anyone direct me to a site or some other resource for choosing and sizing a scythe? i have only a very old one with a pretty heavy curved wooden snath that was here when we bought this old farm. Looking for something that will allow me to drop hay with minimum discomfort. Thanks..
scythesupply.com
Swords were made to be bashed into thins constantly without breaking, so it should be able to handle it.
How do I drive the anvil in to the oak log without hurting the hardened anvil or hardened hammer?
use a dead blow hammer.
Drill a hole in the log. I used two different bits because the tang on the anvil is tapered. Then as above drive the anvil into the log. Don't drive it in to hard or you will have a problem getting it out.
i put a small piece of wood in between hammer and anvil
That sythe looks home made what is it made from?
any reason why sythe blades aren't \made from high carbon steel that would hold an edge better?
They are (American and UK style blades) but they are heavier than the European/Austrian style blades.
Would one be able to restore a sword edge like this too, or is a sword blade too hard to take the hammer blow unheated?
Blade would be too hard (chipping would occur). The sword would have to be annealed first (makes the steel soft again), than hammered into shape (with heat is preferred to prevent micro-cracks) and then it needs to be hardened and tempered again to give the steel its old properties back.
Much easier to use a stone.... ;-)
Great video , no bullshit. Exactly how the old days were!
Wait of it was made from high carbon steel why would you have to peen or sharpen it?
I've been using a very fine grit stone wheel on a grinder. OOPS!!... Anyway everyone is saying that I need to hammer it...... Now I get it!
Yeah, oldschool people just hammer it down on an anvil
Some blades (European, Austrian) are made to be peened, some (American and UK) are made to be ground sharp. If peening does nothing to the blade but leaves dents/marks on your anvil, then you have a hardened steel blade and should grind it sharp.
Спасибо, хорошее видео,познавательное.
great video, very helpful
Blessings
Awesome video, very informative!
so what if you got the sideways curve out and put a handle on it, you got on awesome sword!
Damiaan Moors
Quite a poor sword actually, the tapers, grind and temper would all be wrong.
an awesome ornamental sword* :D
Brian doesn't demonstrate using a peening hammer on a flat anvil, which is more readily available than the ad hoc peening anvil. :)
Wow, so much information!
Thanks. Been wondering about peening and how to do it properly.
where did you buy the scythe
make*
I would hate for people to attempt to peen based only on this video. Peter Vido’s information at Scythe Connection dot com is highly recommended. The current version of a peening jig by Fux is vastly superior to the antiquated version shown here. It does not cause the “drop off” you reference. Freehand peening is extremely difficult to learn without personal instruction. I suspect that improper peening ruins more blades than all other causes combined. David Tresemer’s peening instructions in “The Scythe Book” is beyond horrible.
How do I know if I need to peen my scythe?
Thanks for posting this.
I've seen some awesome peening machine (austrian made) at the krameterhof. They are amazing! With the draw of the lever, two anvil-jaws just peen it really quickly!
please look up at least some basic metallurgy before making a comment like that. as PaulkyArcher said carbon steel encompasses a large number of different types of steel(all of them with carbon as the major alloying element) and to add have you ever heard of tempering? it is a process of reheating a hardened steel tool( or other steel object ) after hardening to reduce brittleness and increase toughness at the loss of some hardness
Good stuff Paul thanks mate :-)
You are gradually stoning off what you peen. It should work indefinitely (or at least until you've stoned off a significant amount of metal and no longer want to use the scythe - and that should be a very long time).
I can't find a scythe anywhere
I just picked one up at a yardsale for $5. It needs restored, and seems to be atleast partly homemade, but there it was when I was looking for it. :) I've often seen them at fleamarkets too... I see them more in rural areas than in the city. I've found them online, (through a thread @ permies.com ) new, but they are in the hundred/s dollars + range...
@@jim_no_rulers thank you man I appreciate it , I finally got in contact with a supplier and what not
Thanks. Its really useful!
Thanks. Well done.
very useful video, thanks
Why did I just watch all of this?
Jim Carrey scythes?
Do you have to use a peening hammer or will an ordinary one do? 😬
ladypenelope99 I use a regular carpenters hammer but the face of the hammer needs to be smooth with slightly rounded edges
Why you peen a scythe ?
03.33, wood pecker call!
good information but i wished you had used a damn tripod
7:51 I guess you hit your rhythm huh?
Because no edge lasts forever.
Nice, thanks!
7:52 it goes fast
La pietra va bagnata in acqua prima di usarla.
Back in Belarus. I missed this instrument, sound, joy…
sharpening and peeing
Carbon steel is so brittle, the scythe would either be as fragile as glass or so heavy you wouldn't be able to harvest hay all day long.