You are a really good teacher. For those of us that are mechanically challenged, you walk us through every step necessary to successfully accomplish the job. I would never consider doing this on my own if it wasn't for this video. Blessings to you and your family.
Scott K thank you for your kind comment. I'm glad I was able to help. make sure to do a follow up tightening for the valve cover after a week or 2. cheers.
I own a 01 Camry (Betty) with 165,000 miles on her. The shop wanted to charge me $200 for this job. I'm glad I ran into this vid! Saved me some $$$! Great channel.
Not sure if you know or even care, but NGK makes an advanced Ruthenium PSPE spark plug for the 5SFE that truly has been one of the best inexpensive performance upgrades to my 99 Camry I've ever done. Prior to the Rutheniums, I tried every plug under the sun with no real noticeable performance gains, but after talking directly to NGK engineers and making 4 well-watched videos with thousands of intelligent people, from tuners to engine designers, these Ruthenium plugs have been a total win.They now have been in my car for 75k miles and I have no regrets whatsoever. I'm confident in saying that Toyota would have probably made them the OEM plug had they existed in 1999. There's more to know and understand if you or anyone else is interested, I'll be happy to explain more.
Some really good information here. I agree with buying OEM parts. I have found the prices are not bad either, plus you can get valuable advice from the people there. When my starter was acting up, clicking noise at starter, the parts guy recommended a solenoid repair kit. The plunger seats onto these contacts that wear out. That fixed it. When my oil pump seal was leaking I fixed it too with OEM parts. Changed the water pump and timing belt too. All OEM. Anyone changing a water pump should think about changing the oil pump seal while in this area. It's a popular problem with these cars. You can see videos on how it's done on UA-cam. Real simple to do when the car is already apart. Thanks for the video.
The 97-01 Camrys are the last Cast Iron block Camrys produced. That is why they commonly hit 350 to 400,000+ miles if well maintained. Toyota mechanics around here refer to these Camry series as "the Legend". They sell fast on used car lots. The way you maintain yours it will definitely live a long life like the Legend it is. Thanks for the video.
I have my 99 for 21 years now, 328k always a Florida car, no rust (although sun is tuff on the paints)... Did a compression test not long ago. All 4 cylinders were at spec still and equal...
I'm SO jealous of how clean and RUST FREE this Camry is, to be honest, I feel like crying man LOL. Mine looks like I teamed up with a hummer and went driving through a swamp. Great video though thank you!
The oil by itself can clean thr internal of your engine. When i got this car, it was a total filth. I changed the oil every 2 weeks until the dipstick was showing clean gold oil after 3 days of driving. These cars run forever. Cheers
Loved this video even if it's 5 years old. Cleanest Camry IV seen so far! I laughed my ass off when you finally realized you set the boot in the oil cap 🤣🤣 good video and tips though thank you for your diligence!
Wooow Hello mate I m Carter and form Korean But live in Australia The reason why I m on workingholiday visa. I m whatching your vidio. I think that. you are very good a teacher. anyway Thank you soso much!
Great video. I'm about to do this. I was told to be very careful when placing the cover back on. The rubber seal can sometimes slip out as you're setting it down. Told me it would be better to do with another person, just in case. I hope my experience goes as seamless as yours! Thx for the great tutorial, man.
GATOR GUY you can so it. just use a little bit of gasket maker as a slight glue so the gasket doesn't fall off. that is one of the main reasons why I always use original parts. it tends to stick on. you got this. cheers!!!
Peter Zafra Going to attempt it this weekend. Will be using your step by step. Thanks again. Hopefully it's not too rough in there. Got a lotta of oil in the backside of the engine. Definitely seeping out the back. Hopefully it's just the gasket lining. Seventeen year old car so anything is possible. 😕
Nice video but you should have took the PCV grommet out while the valve cover was off that way you wouldn't have to worry about breaking sure any pieces falling inside
You don’t HAVE to use Toyota only parts, just try for OEM, like Aisin, Koyo (bearings), Denso, Mitsuboshi (belts), and others. For an Aisin water pump kit with Koyo bearings from a Toyota dealership, it’s about $600. For the same exact parts in a complete kit from a parts store that is an Aisin dealer, about $200… However, some parts, like engine mounts, you can only get from the dealership. For this job I used Fel-Pro, and had no issues. Didn’t use the red Permatex RTV except for under those little half moons at each end of the cam. I used Toyota brand pink grease on all rubber parts. Dealership prices are just… unrealistic for most.
Simple Green purple degreaser. Avoid touching your battery terminals with it. In fact, just take the battery out. Set it aside till you're done. Afterwards, douse your engine and underhood area in the stuff. Wait 30 minutes. Blast it with a hose. It'll be clean as new! Fix your leak first, though.
Great video, the only problem I saw was the retaining nut tightening. The nuts that hold the valve cover on need to be tightened down to 33 foot pounds using a 30mm socket in several steps, i.e. torque all to say 17 foot pounds, then 25 foot pounds then the final 33 foot pounds. These are just the 3 I use the main thing is the last torque of 33 ft/lbs. Thanks
I recall doing this job on a previous 2.2L Camry. The hand tightening process he shows is the right way to do it. I would say, do it that way and if, after that, it ain't broke, don't fix it.
@@rayrobinson3015 Hello. Would you please tell me how you know 17 ft-lbs is correct? Most commenters say 33 ft-lbs is listed in the factory service manual, other manuals, and works for them. However, I saw 17 ft-lbs in the 5s-fe engine repair manual, and a commenter said the 33 ft-lbs listed in other manuals was incorrect. Would you please tell me how I can be sure about the correct torque?
@@jonjones6467 This is just mainly common sense. If you have used a torque wrench and have practical experience, you will know that there is a huge difference between 17 and 33 ft. lbs. All you are doing is snugging a gasket to prevent oil from leaking here. My advice would be to go with the 17 lb. setting. If you find that the gasket is not sealing properly, go ahead and take it down a few steps at a time. 33 ft. lbs. is excessive for a valve cover gasket. I don't care what the service manual says!
Done, 40 minutes flat start to finish. I did notice that the lock nuts were hand tight when I went to loosen them. The gasket was brittle when bent a bit, it was time to replace it. Thanks again for the vid. I used the blue tube of gasket maker, this gonna be an issue?
Scotty N the blue should be all good. It's just to supplement the corners. You should be all good. Check back in a couple days to re tighten valve cover bolts. Glad my video helped.
Awesome video. Mines not leaking yet, but oil is getting into the spark plug tubes and I figure I might as well kill two birds with one stone while I’m at it.
The grommets are part # 90480-30024 NOT ...29. Anyway, this is one problem I have with buying OEM Toyota parts; they sell the gasket without the grommets. You cannot buy a kit from them. If you try to buy some parts separately (like these grommets) you'll find they have been discontinued. IMO buy a kit like the Apex AVC813S (which is silicone instead of the mystery rubber)
Clean cam area. Mine was a mess when I bought it. Elderly driver. Drove it very little. Went years without oil changes because the mileage was limited. With a Toyota, you have to keep clean oil in there. True of all Toyota engines. The 2.2 and 2.4 L fours get sludged easily. The old 3.0 sixes had oil flowback problems. Better to use dino oil and a no name filter than to fool around with extended drain intervals. If you wanted an extended drain interval, first make sure the engine is clean internally and then use a high-end synthetic oil and high end filter. I go for dino oil and a Supertech filter myself. It's too easy change the oil on a 2.2 L. Good news though. The one with the dirty engine got totaled and I got paid off. I now have another 2001 2.2 L Camry, this one a one-owner special with 143K. Needs a valve cover gasket, plugs and wires. That's why I'm here.
@@PeterZafra In that case the vehicle will be on the road longer than I will be. In between the last Camry and this one, I had a 1990s compact and I only put about 12000 miles on it in 16 months. It appears the transmission fluid in this Camry has never been changed. I drained the pan and refilled the unit with original Dex III and about 10 ounces of leftover Lucas transmission fix. What do you think about doing a complete fluid change? I think not. Over some decades, I have seen transmission failures possibly attributable to fluid changes, though not in Toyotas. Since I am up and on the issue of old units, I want to say something about the Dr. Doom types who tell people that GM no longer licenses Dexron fluid. If the fluid is from a major oil company or a national chain, it will meet the specification. I got oil company label Dex III at a dollar store for $3.49 a quart. Seriously, who could possibly make money producing and distributing counterfeit Dex III?
The spark plug tube nuts you say at 16:00 to not mix them up because of a groove?? Guess I better mark them so they don't get mixed up. The PCV valve grommet and other leaks are from the crankcase pressure pushing the oil out.
Also, do you clean your engine? It really looks clean and organized. How do you keep it so? One thing I noticed; you tightened the nuts from left to right but all the info from multiple sources recommend starting with the middle two nuts then the ends, then repeat. You cannot get them to torque spec by hand (33 ft-lbs). You do need a torque wrench. I know that is how you do it but ...
Yes. I clean my engine using simple green. Just make sure you cover the coils. Yes, tighten to what works with you. This is simply how I did it. Cheers.
Good video even though it’s been a while since u filmed it. It’s helped me out, but any idea what the squarish rubber hose at the end of the intake manifold is? Mine broke and Can’t seem to find it online.
If you mean the PCV valve grommet, they all break apart when you remove them if they have been in for a few years. I think that's how they are designed so if you change the PCV valve you have to buy a new grommet too. It's really a pain because pieces of it can fall into the engine easily. A tip: after removing the PCV valve, secure the grommet with tape so when it crumbles, the pieces stick to the tape instead of falling into the hole.
Might sound like a dumb question but is this possible with oil in the car? Idk I'm having a irrational fear of just oil spilling everywhere when I take off the valve cover
Hey man where do you get the oem parts at? I have a 01 Camry 4 cylinder. And I also want to do this job because I saw that it’s also leaking from the back.
Peter zafra j have toyota camry1992 2.2 automatic transmitions. J got this car two months. In the morning when the engine and transmition I really cold the level of transmition fluid marked as cold on dipstik stick is zero.But there is oil higher maybe 15 cm from the bottom of dipstik stick where is marked that should be same oil when the car is cold.The engine oil when the car and engine is cold is in the pane the low place in the engine.Why is different on transmitition there is no logic .It's a question of gravitation.What stopped the transmition fluid to go down to pane of gearbox shift solenoid or something else
By any chance, was the off-brand one you used Felpro, cause Felpro is usually pretty good. That's what I am about to install on my old Camry unless you tell me it was Felpro. Then I'll buy a Toyota one. BTW 30mm socket is needed
@@PeterZafra You said you used an off-brand from eBay that leaked. What brand was it? Just want to know if it was a Felpro (which is the most popular). Felpro prolly makes it for Toyota and I have Felpro ready to go on my engine tomorrow.
It's the perfect car to learn to fix it yourself on! It's easy to work on. Plenty of room. Intuitively designed. And it's simple. And it's VERY dependable.
Look into it but I believe is 15 Ft Lbs . Start with the center ones and work your way outwards and rechecking inwards until the torque is evenly distributed. Don’t over torque.
@8:46 That little metal piece that is part of the engine block next to the camshaft on the bottom left, it's there on the passenger side of my engine but missing on the driver's side. It's right next to the camshaft and is part of the mating surface. It's half moon shaped, round on the bottom and flat on the top. On your video it's a slightly different color than the rest of the mating surface. Do you know what it is called? The PO just filled that well with RTV and that's where I am leaking from. You can see it from the side of the engine on the driver's side without taking anything off. It's just below the camshaft. It seems to be glued or epoxied in place. @8:50 you can see it clearly on passenger side. @13:20 You can see it on the driver's side but it looks grey in your photo.
That part is a known leaking part. I think Toyota used the same block on some engines that had a different part there that actually had a distributor. It can be a 3sfe motor. I've worked on a 3sfe motor that had the one that wasn't aluminum and I just removed it and cleaned it well and put orange gasket maker on it. Worked well. Just make sure it's really clean if you decide to go that route. Hope that helps. Cheers.
@@PeterZafra I don't think that I conveyed the right area correctly. It's the little half moons I was talking about. I believe the part number is #11183-74010 from Toyota. I went ahead and bought the Beck Arnley 036-1822 kit that has the valve cover gasket, spark plug tube grommets and the 2 aluminum half moons. I installed the Felpro set and then realized that one of the half moons was missing and the P.O. just filled the area with RTV. Felpro didn't include the half moon plugs in their kit but the gasket was nice. The part you are referring to is the cam plug that covers up the distributor hole. I went ahead and ordered that as well from another vendor. My buddy is a mechanic and knew instantly what I was talking about.
@@lucidbarrier You can also get a cam plug from a self service wrecking yard. But my experience was, these do not go bad, nor does the cam plug need to be removed when you change the valve cover. The half moons serve another function. Possibly, these will not need be replaced either. It's all coming back to me. If the cam plug is leaking, you can just remove it, put some kind sealer on it and put it back in.
So... If I took the valve cover off and there was oil Everywhere in there .... Is that bad? Lol. Decided to open it up because the spark plugs Wells were full of oil. But the gasket looked recently replaced so now I'm suspicious
@@PeterZafra replaced those too! Just worried it's going to fill up again, if there's a different problem. Oil level is fine and it doesn't leak, never has, close to 250k mi 😂
did u get the oil in spark plug tubes figured out?im getting ready to replace gasket and grommets but also wondering if i need to spin the tubes out as well and rtv the bottom threads
Wow and damn. Not what to do... grommet and pcv i think should've been replaced when you had that cover off. You need to tighten in correct order. To specs not hand tightened. 40 min lol tell the truth. You did help. Thanks
Wait... Laser Iridium plugs aren't OEM. Also, if you torque the nuts, you have to use a tool and not just your hand. See, OEM parts are not always the best choice.
Good point. In all fairness though, the plugs that came with the car is a denso and the plug I installed are densos which all I did was I went up in performance which is actually in the computers at AutoZone and O'Reilly as an upgrade from stock number. Cheers.
You show only hand tightening..and you say it is what works for you..yet, you admit that this is the second time you are doing it since it leaked again.....i suspect the leak was not the gasket, but the fact that toyota rec. 33 lbs torque on those nuts...gasket should be fine, even if after market...just tighten evenly i suspect and do so with gasket at room temp, not cold or below 50 degrees...good vid though, thanks...
Not cool that you said "hand tighten otherwise you'll strip." Should be torqued to 33 ft lbs. You can say you could just hand tighten, but be informative and say the torque specs. Like 30mm socket...
@@PeterZafra I see lote of vids showing this and people go on about the sealant and all that , When my mech took the time to clean that baffles , I have a new level of power. There is a vid on YT showing a guy replacing the tubes.. I am 99.99999 % sure he didnt clean the baffles and thought the tubes were leaking on his plugs.
that is literally the cleanest normal motor I have ever seen.....
Gone Ballistic I try my best. Thank you for the compliment.
@@PeterZafra Is this polished? I thought I kept my wife's Camry clean under the hood but this baby is glowing!
5SEF one of the easiest engines to work on - you have a very clean engine well done..
I think the s series engines are Toyotas most reliable 4 cylinder engines
You are a really good teacher. For those of us that are mechanically challenged, you walk us through every step necessary to successfully accomplish the job. I would never consider doing this on my own if it wasn't for this video. Blessings to you and your family.
Scott K thank you for your kind comment. I'm glad I was able to help. make sure to do a follow up tightening for the valve cover after a week or 2. cheers.
your pvc hose is cracked
I own a 01 Camry (Betty) with 165,000 miles on her. The shop wanted to charge me $200 for this job. I'm glad I ran into this vid! Saved me some $$$! Great channel.
So glad i was able to help. Thank you for the like and the sub. Cheers
Only $200?
I was afraid it would cost $500+
200$ for a professional job plus a brand new gasket and you think it's expensive? So mechanics should be paid 5$ an hour and give free parts
I just picked up a 1998 Toyota Camry with the 2.2 engine and this helps as I can see the oil leaking from the valve cover. Good tips. Thank you.
Great car. Congrats. Cheers!!!
@@PeterZafra I normally drive an F250 and can't believe how smooth the Toyota is.
Nice video! The nut size is 30mm for the 4 valve cover fasteners. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
+Jeffery Jones thank you
you da real MVP
Thank you!!! 👍
Thanks for the great vid. You did a nice job filming, lighting, explaining with no bs intro or annoying background music. Thanks again.
Fert B Thank you for watching. Cheers
Not sure if you know or even care, but NGK makes an advanced Ruthenium PSPE spark plug for the 5SFE that truly has been one of the best inexpensive performance upgrades to my 99 Camry I've ever done. Prior to the Rutheniums, I tried every plug under the sun with no real noticeable performance gains, but after talking directly to NGK engineers and making 4 well-watched videos with thousands of intelligent people, from tuners to engine designers, these Ruthenium plugs have been a total win.They now have been in my car for 75k miles and I have no regrets whatsoever. I'm confident in saying that Toyota would have probably made them the OEM plug had they existed in 1999. There's more to know and understand if you or anyone else is interested, I'll be happy to explain more.
Hi Peter ,u are a genius .I watched ur video and I changed valve cove gasket of my camry 2001.Mechanic s' labor was $80 .So I saved $80 .
Awesome. Thank you for watching and subbing. It helps a lot. Cheers
@@PeterZafra Welcome
I changed mine yesterday and it was the easiest valve cover gasket replacement I've ever done.
Not hard at all. Glad it all worked out for you. Cheers
Some really good information here. I agree with buying OEM parts. I have found the prices are not bad either, plus you can get valuable advice from the people there. When my starter was acting up, clicking noise at starter, the parts guy recommended a solenoid repair kit. The plunger seats onto these contacts that wear out. That fixed it. When my oil pump seal was leaking I fixed it too with OEM parts. Changed the water pump and timing belt too. All OEM. Anyone changing a water pump should think about changing the oil pump seal while in this area. It's a popular problem with these cars. You can see videos on how it's done on UA-cam. Real simple to do when the car is already apart. Thanks for the video.
The 97-01 Camrys are the last Cast Iron block Camrys produced. That is why they commonly hit 350 to 400,000+ miles if well maintained. Toyota mechanics around here refer to these Camry series as "the Legend". They sell fast on used car lots. The way you maintain yours it will definitely live a long life like the Legend it is. Thanks for the video.
Best cars ever. Thank you. Cheers
They also have cast iron cylinder sleeves
They're cast iron?? NICE!!
Didnt know that about my '97 baby!
Thanks!
I have my 99 for 21 years now, 328k always a Florida car, no rust (although sun is tuff on the paints)... Did a compression test not long ago. All 4 cylinders were at spec still and equal...
I'm SO jealous of how clean and RUST FREE this Camry is, to be honest, I feel like crying man LOL. Mine looks like I teamed up with a hummer and went driving through a swamp. Great video though thank you!
The oil by itself can clean thr internal of your engine. When i got this car, it was a total filth. I changed the oil every 2 weeks until the dipstick was showing clean gold oil after 3 days of driving. These cars run forever. Cheers
@@PeterZafra I was talking about the cleanliness of your engine bay brotha LOL.
@@PeterZafra Did you change the oil filter every two weeks as well? Or just the oil?
Loved this video even if it's 5 years old. Cleanest Camry IV seen so far! I laughed my ass off when you finally realized you set the boot in the oil cap 🤣🤣 good video and tips though thank you for your diligence!
Haha. Yeah man. That was horrible. Cheers
Man, thank you for making the video! I learned so much! Really Appreciate it.
My pleasure. Thank you for watching and subbing
Wooow Hello mate I m Carter and form Korean But live in Australia The reason why I m on workingholiday visa. I m whatching your vidio. I think that. you are very good a teacher. anyway Thank you soso much!
Thanks for this video. Will be attempting to do this during my day off. Wish me luck.
Jandr Martin Collado you got this!!
Great video. I'm about to do this. I was told to be very careful when placing the cover back on. The rubber seal can sometimes slip out as you're setting it down. Told me it would be better to do with another person, just in case. I hope my experience goes as seamless as yours! Thx for the great tutorial, man.
GATOR GUY you can so it. just use a little bit of gasket maker as a slight glue so the gasket doesn't fall off. that is one of the main reasons why I always use original parts. it tends to stick on. you got this. cheers!!!
Peter Zafra Going to attempt it this weekend. Will be using your step by step. Thanks again. Hopefully it's not too rough in there. Got a lotta of oil in the backside of the engine. Definitely seeping out the back. Hopefully it's just the gasket lining. Seventeen year old car so anything is possible. 😕
Very Informative, I... like your sense of humor as well
Thank you. Cheers
Very clear and detail video. Thanks
Good instruction and acting. That is one neat and spacious engine compartment.
Thank you for watching and subbing. Cheers.
Nice video but you should have took the PCV grommet out while the valve cover was off that way you wouldn't have to worry about breaking sure any pieces falling inside
I totally agree. I completely forgot about it. Haha. Thank you for watching and subbing.
"Should have took?" WTF !? Should have taken grammar 101
@@rayrobinson3015 it was a useful tip.
good job man. I'm about to do this. this video helped a lot
thank you for the well made and informative video, i now have the information needed to confidently change the gasket.
Thank you for watching and subbing. Cheers.
You don’t HAVE to use Toyota only parts, just try for OEM, like Aisin, Koyo (bearings), Denso, Mitsuboshi (belts), and others. For an Aisin water pump kit with Koyo bearings from a Toyota dealership, it’s about $600. For the same exact parts in a complete kit from a parts store that is an Aisin dealer, about $200… However, some parts, like engine mounts, you can only get from the dealership.
For this job I used Fel-Pro, and had no issues. Didn’t use the red Permatex RTV except for under those little half moons at each end of the cam. I used Toyota brand pink grease on all rubber parts.
Dealership prices are just… unrealistic for most.
cheers
I have a bad oil leak...how do u get motor so clean ...best I've ever seen 😍🤗
I use simple green. I wash twice a year.
Simple Green purple degreaser.
Avoid touching your battery terminals with it. In fact, just take the battery out. Set it aside till you're done.
Afterwards, douse your engine and underhood area in the stuff. Wait 30 minutes. Blast it with a hose.
It'll be clean as new!
Fix your leak first, though.
I liked your video. You really covered all the steps well with good explanations. Trying this tomorrow. Fingers crossed :)
Paul Navara you got this!!!.
Great video, the only problem I saw was the retaining nut tightening. The nuts that hold the valve cover on need to be tightened down to 33 foot pounds using a 30mm socket in several steps, i.e. torque all to say 17 foot pounds, then 25 foot pounds then the final 33 foot pounds. These are just the 3 I use the main thing is the last torque of 33 ft/lbs. Thanks
That is NOT correct, it is 7-13-and 17 ft. pounds!!! 33 ft lbs is WAY too tight
I recall doing this job on a previous 2.2L Camry. The hand tightening process he shows is the right way to do it. I would say, do it that way and if, after that, it ain't broke, don't fix it.
@@rayrobinson3015 Hello. Would you please tell me how you know 17 ft-lbs is correct? Most commenters say 33 ft-lbs is listed in the factory service manual, other manuals, and works for them. However, I saw 17 ft-lbs in the 5s-fe engine repair manual, and a commenter said the 33 ft-lbs listed in other manuals was incorrect. Would you please tell me how I can be sure about the correct torque?
@@jonjones6467 This is just mainly common sense. If you have used a torque wrench and have practical experience, you will know that there is a huge difference between 17 and 33 ft. lbs. All you are doing is snugging a gasket to prevent oil from leaking here. My advice would be to go with the 17 lb. setting. If you find that the gasket is not sealing properly, go ahead and take it down a few steps at a time. 33 ft. lbs. is excessive for a valve cover gasket. I don't care what the service manual says!
@@rayrobinson3015 Thank you for the response and sharing your knowledge. I do not have any experience so this is very helpful to me.
Going to my 99 tomorrow, 30mm socket that will save me some time for sure. I went with the Felpro kit, the gasket and the 4 plug seals.
Scotty N cheers. Glad you got it done. Thank you for supporting my channel.
Not done yet, gonna tackle it tomorrow after work . Good informative vid!
Done, 40 minutes flat start to finish. I did notice that the lock nuts were hand tight when I went to loosen them. The gasket was brittle when bent a bit, it was time to replace it. Thanks again for the vid. I used the blue tube of gasket maker, this gonna be an issue?
Scotty N the blue should be all good. It's just to supplement the corners. You should be all good. Check back in a couple days to re tighten valve cover bolts. Glad my video helped.
Awesome video. Mines not leaking yet, but oil is getting into the spark plug tubes and I figure I might as well kill two birds with one stone while I’m at it.
Yes. Cheers and thanks for the view and sub
did the top grommets fix your oil in spark plug tube or did you have to go back in and unscrew the tubes from the head and rtv them?
@@zacinnc78 Yup! But it still burns oil on start up because the valve seals have gone bad. But no more oil pooling on top of the plugs.
The grommets are part # 90480-30024 NOT ...29. Anyway, this is one problem I have with buying OEM Toyota parts; they sell the gasket without the grommets. You cannot buy a kit from them. If you try to buy some parts separately (like these grommets) you'll find they have been discontinued. IMO buy a kit like the Apex AVC813S (which is silicone instead of the mystery rubber)
I looked at the grommet in my dealership and the part number for me was 90480-30025
Thank you so much for your video it really helps
Thank you. Cheers
By the way you did a very clean job
Thank you kindly. Cheers!!!
Nice vid! I like your shop "towel" 😂
liam sexton hahaha. Gotta extend the use of cloth. Hahaha.cheers
That is the cleanest camry I have ever seen
Thanks. I try to keep her clean
Clean cam area. Mine was a mess when I bought it. Elderly driver. Drove it very little. Went years without oil changes because the mileage was limited. With a Toyota, you have to keep clean oil in there. True of all Toyota engines. The 2.2 and 2.4 L fours get sludged easily. The old 3.0 sixes had oil flowback problems. Better to use dino oil and a no name filter than to fool around with extended drain intervals. If you wanted an extended drain interval, first make sure the engine is clean internally and then use a high-end synthetic oil and high end filter. I go for dino oil and a Supertech filter myself. It's too easy change the oil on a 2.2 L.
Good news though. The one with the dirty engine got totaled and I got paid off. I now have another 2001 2.2 L Camry, this one a one-owner special with 143K. Needs a valve cover gasket, plugs and wires. That's why I'm here.
These engines are tough. Here's to 500k miles.
@@PeterZafra In that case the vehicle will be on the road longer than I will be. In between the last Camry and this one, I had a 1990s compact and I only put about 12000 miles on it in 16 months. It appears the transmission fluid in this Camry has never been changed. I drained the pan and refilled the unit with original Dex III and about 10 ounces of leftover Lucas transmission fix. What do you think about doing a complete fluid change? I think not. Over some decades, I have seen transmission failures possibly attributable to fluid changes, though not in Toyotas.
Since I am up and on the issue of old units, I want to say something about the Dr. Doom types who tell people that GM no longer licenses Dexron fluid. If the fluid is from a major oil company or a national chain, it will meet the specification. I got oil company label Dex III at a dollar store for $3.49 a quart. Seriously, who could possibly make money producing and distributing counterfeit Dex III?
Toyota recommends that you torque the valve cover down to 15ft pounds
Thanks for the tip. Cheers
@@PeterZafra no prob
The spark plug tube nuts you say at 16:00 to not mix them up because of a groove?? Guess I better mark them so they don't get mixed up. The PCV valve grommet and other leaks are from the crankcase pressure pushing the oil out.
thats my goal to get mine that clean.
Cheers
Also don't forget to replace cam seals (half-moon) and apply RTV on the half-moons as well. Thanks.
Cheers
Great, to the point, video 👍 subscribed
Cheers
16:48 same thing as star pattern on a wheel.
Nice even distribution of force.
You are awesome 👍.. very very helpful
Also, do you clean your engine? It really looks clean and organized. How do you keep it so? One thing I noticed; you tightened the nuts from left to right but all the info from multiple sources recommend starting with the middle two nuts then the ends, then repeat. You cannot get them to torque spec by hand (33 ft-lbs). You do need a torque wrench. I know that is how you do it but ...
Yes. I clean my engine using simple green. Just make sure you cover the coils. Yes, tighten to what works with you. This is simply how I did it. Cheers.
Good video even though it’s been a while since u filmed it. It’s helped me out, but any idea what the squarish rubber hose at the end of the intake manifold is? Mine broke and Can’t seem to find it online.
That's a half-moon grommet. Toyota will know what you mean when you tell them.
@@PeterZafra 👍🏼
Great video dude. Cheers
Thank you:)
Nice video! Thank you!
My grommet disintegrated when I tried to get it out, had to pick pieces out of the hole.
MerkinMuffly sounds about right. It's what happened to me. Glad you got it out though.
If you mean the PCV valve grommet, they all break apart when you remove them if they have been in for a few years. I think that's how they are designed so if you change the PCV valve you have to buy a new grommet too. It's really a pain because pieces of it can fall into the engine easily. A tip: after removing the PCV valve, secure the grommet with tape so when it crumbles, the pieces stick to the tape instead of falling into the hole.
J. Wilson he’s talking about the spark plug gasket. Happened to me too
Might sound like a dumb question but is this possible with oil in the car? Idk I'm having a irrational fear of just oil spilling everywhere when I take off the valve cover
Christopher Corado yes. You can change this gasket with oil in the car.
Well Done very helpfull
Thank you. :)
Wow your engine bay is too clean
Thank you. My ocd kicks in hard. Lol
Hey man where do you get the oem parts at? I have a 01 Camry 4 cylinder. And I also want to do this job because I saw that it’s also leaking from the back.
Toyota dealership.
Can you leave the spark plugs installed while replacing the valve cover gasket and the grommets? Thanks!
Yes.
Peter zafra j have toyota camry1992 2.2 automatic transmitions. J got this car two months. In the morning when the engine and transmition I really cold the level of transmition fluid marked as cold on dipstik stick is zero.But there is oil higher maybe 15 cm from the bottom of dipstik stick where is marked that should be same oil when the car is cold.The engine oil when the car and engine is cold is in the pane the low place in the engine.Why is different on transmitition there is no logic .It's a question of gravitation.What stopped the transmition fluid to go down to pane of gearbox shift solenoid or something else
Transmission oil needs to be checked while engine is running. Engine oil checked when engine is off.
By any chance, was the off-brand one you used Felpro, cause Felpro is usually pretty good. That's what I am about to install on my old Camry unless you tell me it was Felpro. Then I'll buy a Toyota one. BTW 30mm socket is needed
I used original Toyota. Cheers
@@PeterZafra You said you used an off-brand from eBay that leaked. What brand was it? Just want to know if it was a Felpro (which is the most popular). Felpro prolly makes it for Toyota and I have Felpro ready to go on my engine tomorrow.
Nothing like these rock solid old Teeyotas
Yep. I've got 250k miles on this car now and still running hard
How did you clean the valve cover gasket
No need to clean it.
Very nice car 👍
Pretty informative
I've owned my 2001 Camry for 3 months now, can you be my mechanic?? 🥺
Haha
I'm just a regular diy kinda person. This is a pretty simple car to work on. You got this. Cheers
It's the perfect car to learn to fix it yourself on!
It's easy to work on.
Plenty of room.
Intuitively designed.
And it's simple.
And it's VERY dependable.
Look into it but I believe is 15 Ft Lbs . Start with the center ones and work your way outwards and rechecking inwards until the torque is evenly distributed. Don’t over torque.
This was the gasket change that leaked on your timing belt...? Should I still follow this guide?
Leaked on my timing belt?.
@@PeterZafra you have a video in sep 2017 saying your valve cover leaked on your timing belt, which happened after this video
is it required to drain the oil when changing it
No it's not
Hey great video man! Was curious where you ordered your toyota oem parts from?
Angler Bigtyme thank you for watching. I just buy them at the local dealership and or eBay. The important thing is that it's an original Toyota part
I have a problem with my crankshaft
What must i do ?? Some advice
What problem do you have? Is it leaking?
@@PeterZafra yes when i start the car it make a noise i have toyota camry sv40 1998
@8:46 That little metal piece that is part of the engine block next to the camshaft on the bottom left, it's there on the passenger side of my engine but missing on the driver's side. It's right next to the camshaft and is part of the mating surface. It's half moon shaped, round on the bottom and flat on the top. On your video it's a slightly different color than the rest of the mating surface. Do you know what it is called? The PO just filled that well with RTV and that's where I am leaking from. You can see it from the side of the engine on the driver's side without taking anything off. It's just below the camshaft. It seems to be glued or epoxied in place. @8:50 you can see it clearly on passenger side. @13:20 You can see it on the driver's side but it looks grey in your photo.
That part is a known leaking part. I think Toyota used the same block on some engines that had a different part there that actually had a distributor. It can be a 3sfe motor. I've worked on a 3sfe motor that had the one that wasn't aluminum and I just removed it and cleaned it well and put orange gasket maker on it. Worked well. Just make sure it's really clean if you decide to go that route. Hope that helps. Cheers.
@@PeterZafra I don't think that I conveyed the right area correctly. It's the little half moons I was talking about. I believe the part number is #11183-74010 from Toyota. I went ahead and bought the Beck Arnley 036-1822 kit that has the valve cover gasket, spark plug tube grommets and the 2 aluminum half moons. I installed the Felpro set and then realized that one of the half moons was missing and the P.O. just filled the area with RTV. Felpro didn't include the half moon plugs in their kit but the gasket was nice. The part you are referring to is the cam plug that covers up the distributor hole. I went ahead and ordered that as well from another vendor. My buddy is a mechanic and knew instantly what I was talking about.
@@lucidbarrier You can also get a cam plug from a self service wrecking yard. But my experience was, these do not go bad, nor does the cam plug need to be removed when you change the valve cover. The half moons serve another function. Possibly, these will not need be replaced either. It's all coming back to me.
If the cam plug is leaking, you can just remove it, put some kind sealer on it and put it back in.
okay hand tight..I need to Chang mine by Spring
K B hand tight then follow up in a couple days and re tighten.
the weird focus and moving parts makes me want to puke as far as video goes but good info.
Thank you. Sorry for that. Cheers
@@PeterZafra were you using an older GoPro?
44nm head nuts if anyone is wondering
What size socket are you using?
It's been a while but i believe its a 22mm
30 mm
So... If I took the valve cover off and there was oil Everywhere in there .... Is that bad? Lol. Decided to open it up because the spark plugs Wells were full of oil. But the gasket looked recently replaced so now I'm suspicious
The grommets are probably bad. Thats why plugs are wet. Also. These engines are known to burn oil so def check them grommets.
@@PeterZafra replaced those too! Just worried it's going to fill up again, if there's a different problem. Oil level is fine and it doesn't leak, never has, close to 250k mi 😂
did u get the oil in spark plug tubes figured out?im getting ready to replace gasket and grommets but also wondering if i need to spin the tubes out as well and rtv the bottom threads
Wow and damn. Not what to do... grommet and pcv i think should've been replaced when you had that cover off. You need to tighten in correct order. To specs not hand tightened. 40 min lol tell the truth. You did help. Thanks
Thanks for the input. Cheers
It's THAT EASY TO TAKE OFF?!?!
Just thr PCV, Plug wires, and intake tube?!?!
Yup. Pretty simple.
The socket size is a 30mm just happened to have one, don't know why.
Awesome. Yup it's not one to just be laying around.
Wait... Laser Iridium plugs aren't OEM. Also, if you torque the nuts, you have to use a tool and not just your hand. See, OEM parts are not always the best choice.
Good point. In all fairness though, the plugs that came with the car is a denso and the plug I installed are densos which all I did was I went up in performance which is actually in the computers at AutoZone and O'Reilly as an upgrade from stock number. Cheers.
So what brand did you buy that leaked on you? Asking for a friend lol
It's been a while but ebay
I think it was the poor technique. Caused reissue
You should not have to drain the oil to do this , or did I misunderstand you?
It was more like a 2 birds with 1 stone type of thing. I decided to change the oil since i was already working on the car. Cheers.
i wanna do this myself so bad, but I only have one car. If I mess up, or strip something I wont have a way to get to somebody who can fix it
You can do it. There's really nothing to strip since the lock nuts are big. Just don't rush yourself. Cheers.
I don't know if you did it already but if you do, use a 30mm socket to extract and replace the big nuts.
You show only hand tightening..and you say it is what works for you..yet, you admit that this is the second time you are doing it since it leaked again.....i suspect the leak was not the gasket, but the fact that toyota rec. 33 lbs torque on those nuts...gasket should be fine, even if after market...just tighten evenly i suspect and do so with gasket at room temp, not cold or below 50 degrees...good vid though, thanks...
I've had experience doing this job. Hand tightening will work just fine.
Not cool that you said "hand tighten otherwise you'll strip." Should be torqued to 33 ft lbs. You can say you could just hand tighten, but be informative and say the torque specs. Like 30mm socket...
Thanks for the input. Cheers
Lock nuts 13lbs
Is that the torque spec for the lock nuts?
Aaaaand toyota discontinued the grommets 😒
Really? Wow that sucks
Clean the baffles in the cover or U R wasting your time
Thanks for the advise.
@@PeterZafra I see lote of vids showing this and people go on about the sealant and all that , When my mech took the time to clean that baffles , I have a new level of power.
There is a vid on YT showing a guy replacing the tubes.. I am 99.99999 % sure
he didnt clean the baffles and thought the tubes were leaking on his plugs.
@@cpgone can you show me a vid if them cleaning the baffles please
Do you mean tOyota?
Sorry meng. I guess my accent is out there.
Gromits# 90480-30025*
Thank you.
Peter Zafra no problem, good video.