Whats up BASSHEADS! 1/0 AWG GP Audio Made in the USA Ultra Pure OFHC Copper Big 3 kits $59.99 SHIPPED gpcaraudio.com/gp-no-bs-wiring/amp-kits-big-3-kits/
I have a 1984 Porsche 911 with the battery in the front and the engine in the back making it difficult to do the alternator. Is there a benefit in just doing the negative chassis upgrade only?
It’s nice to know that even at the most professional level you can set a bolt down for one second then literally two seconds later wonder where the hell you set that bolt at LOL love the content guys
Honestly, I just either fill my pockets, or I have a regular little box (Tupperware) I bought that I just keep on my tool box. Whenever I do any job. I grab the following. My cell phone My cordless ratchet My tool bag And the little box Pretty much everything I need
What's crazy is at 6:44 you finished the sentence "it's just gonna take us maybe ten more minutes to complete install here" and the video ends in exactly ten more minutes.
Thanks for this video, because I ran the big three upgrade and some other video suggested to run the alternator ground off of the frame where the engine block grounded. Let me tell you It arced in me. Then I remembered how these professional guys sounded and made it seem simple and it was. I ran 1/0 awg wire,straight we’lding cable. My car jams now, all the way around at 14.65 volts ! I love it
I know that a short to ground on the alt to battery power wire will be virtually zero but what if the alternator rectifier goes bad and shorts out? Doesn't the stock amp to battery have a fuseable wire at the junction box?
Hi, thanks for your help with this video! I have a question: why isn't a larger cable added for the alternator ground, but only a large positive is added?
I went negative on battery to chassis...5 inch wire. You went negative to engine block. What should I do? Make a 4th going from negative to block or replace my negative to chassis? One more question.. Do pure copper ring terminals make any difference or do the gold plated or aluminum work just the same? Is it worth the hassle changing them out?
nice explanation of the upgrade..my only question is when connecting the grounds did they make a spark cuz my did..I wanted to make sure I'm making my connections correctly.
Sir I want to ask..my alternator is 100amps output..I installed power wire directly into positive of alternator to the positive of the battery with 150 amps fuse..Iam also having sound system 2 amplifiers also with fuse but lower amps..my question is shall I need to replace the fuse of may power amplifier into 150amps??coz its all connected to the battery??to avoid toasting of fuse??
Yo! Appreciate the info...👮🏽♂️👍🏽 Question... Do I need to disconnect the NEGATIVE first, before hooking up the POSITIVE from the alternator to the positive battery post? And then, the NEGATIVE from alternator to negative battery post? I don't wanna fry any components...🔥
Yoooo when I run an extra wire from the alternator power directly to the battery power should I keep the factory one running to the fuse box ?? I will one running 1 10 inch Skar Audio 1200 watt Sdr series
Going over the cvpi electrical diagram , a fusable link is required from the 200amp alt to the battery. Do you not need that or a circuit breaker of 250a
Ramon Strong you can Definetly install the big 3 without upgrading the stock battery or alternator, it makes a big difference. Then from there upgrading the battery and alternator just increases the results even more
Hey thanks you guys. I bought the kit with you guys and it's way better than I thought it could be. It's amazing. And ya'll sent it here so fast. Hey really thanks.
skip the isolator, you want to be able to tap into the underhood battery power also. positive to positive from battery to battery, fused on each end to isolate the run
For your original negative wire that connects to post of battery.....what did you do to it? Did you take out? Cut and put new lug on it? Wondering bc I have the 6 spot flat terminals as well and I’m not sure what to do with that specific negative
Does the ground cable need to be touching the alternator or can it be connected to the alternator mounting bracket? I have mine connected with the same mounting bolt you guys used, but my cable is against just the bracket instead
Does it not need to be fused from the alternator to the battery? I just bought your kit and getting ready to install it but some videos show them fusing it. Thank you in advance
Got some questions.1)are these only for older cars?2)I have 2017 Subaru Legacy with stock audio system,but have some led bars installed,would it be ok to install these Big 3 upgrade even though I don’t plan on installing aftermarket sound systems?and also power from battery to alternator doesn’t it need to be fused?and how would I know what amp of fuse I need,?i plan on getting your 1/0 gauge kit,thanks
No they work for any car today and I put in my big 3 kit and it doesn’t have any other fuses than what was factory with the truck it’s just letting your alternator provide maximum power to the battery and electrical systems as it can
Can you make sets that have longer ground leads no other company sells the with longer then 3 feet for chassis two ground wires lifted trucks always need a little bit longer on the grounds 48 to 64 in
Shaquan Hardy you can but frame tapping bolts.You just have to drill a pilot hole corresponding to the bolt.they have an appearance with a cone type of thread,and they work great,if you don't have a tap set.or grind frame,and weld a bolt to it,or this.
When I run a second battery in the back of the vehicle can I come directly off of the alternator or do I have to feed it off the 12 volt battery from the front
How did y’all install the SAE 6 bolt battery terminal from the factory positive and negative wiring?? I have a 2004 Grand Marquis and I would like to add the new terminal
The ground on the alternator should come out the back of it it goes from ac to DC and alternators ground out the back not the front and the reason why is that the ground now has to go through the whole alternator to get its ground
So do you jus leave your existing alt power wire and jus add the 1/0 power wire to it? Also is it necessary to fuse the big 3 power wire that goes fron alt to battery? Seen people do it and people not fuse it. Thanks alot
I have a 2004 Grand Marquise and would like to know what do you do with the factor alternator power wire? Also can you give me the link to your Big 3 upgrade kit?
Hey I think you called me earlier and we are getting you taken care of today. If not call the number on our website and we can explain everything crystal clear 👍👍
Ice MAN found out yesterday after almost a month that the ground chassis bolt wasn’t tight AT ALL. Almost was about to fall out so my car was resetting and all kinds of crazy stuff. Perfect now lol Austen banging hard as f at 14.1 v at night with all my lights and AC on in Dallas 100 degree weather :) lol so happy and pissed at the same time lol
Ice MAN get the 2ed battery if you beefed you alternator. If your alternator is beefed up and got a good AGM battery, with the big 4... you should be good on steady Volts. I was hitting 30Hz last night on my preferred volume (louse asf) my voltage stayed at 14.0
I think for pre 2010ish this should be a good thing..but not so much for modern cars and all the electronics...cars electronics today are strict with everything it seems
That's what I'm saying I have a 2018 Kia Sportage and the wires look decent in it comez with a stock 150 amp alternator. I'm running a 1400 RMS amp And a 400 RMS voice amp. But in reality I never do those numbers because I'm only running 1 12 inch sub. So I don't think it would be necessary if I installed the big 3.
Just look for OFC (Oxygen free copper) wire. Make sure the company of whoever makes the wire are true gauge. Stay away from CCA (Copper clad aluminum) wire. A lot of times you'll get cheated with that. They'll give you more jacket than actual true gauge wire. Not only that, but CCA often times does not hold up well to high current draw over time. But CCA is usually a very cheap alternative. Sometimes OFC wire can be a bit iffy depending on the brand, Usually still better than CCA... But, Apparently Welding cable is better than Car audio OFC & CCA wire, because it's 100% copper & very true to it's gauge. So, you just gotta look around.
Did you keep the original wiring from the starter to the alternator? I'm doing this an a Chevrolet impala ltz. I need to know if those have to be removed.
I followed this guide to install my Big 3 Upgrade today. Thank you! Only thing is the beauty cover doesn't fit with the wires that high. I had to push them down a bit.
Mike Sinur I hear you dont have to its only recommended incase you get in a car accident in a front collision and the wire gets cuts and can start a spark
J R hello, the big 3 will make huge improvements on your electrical flow, we can make a big 3 for the tahoe that is drop-in ready, I have the measurements for it. Call us 10am tp 5pm Monday through Friday and we can be sure you are properly setup per wattage you are trying to run 👍👍
Yes keep all stock wires hooked up. Consider those stock wires are for your normal vehicle operations, and the big 3 an electrical bypass to flow more current on top of that.
Wait...you're not going to fuse that Pos cable from the Alt to the Bat? The factory cable has a fusible link for a reason. Love the ratchet sitting right next to the positive terminal at the end(he actually sat the ratchet on top of the battery earlier). SMH.
How would this work on a 2017 Ford Fusion Hybrid Se? I plan on having a system 1200-1500 watts and beneath my hood is different. I have a stock battery in the left side of my trunk as well.
I would look into getting a higher output alternator first Ether one that is compadable with your fusion Or a Aftermarket one made for your fusion. example My Chevy Blazer Alt stock is a CS-130 rated 85Amp. Tahoe and other GM trucks Use a AD-244 rated 105 to 190 Amp which use the same bolt up and pin connector, (1 inch bigger belt) and sell for only $40 more then the stock CS-130...After market CS-130 - 145Amp sells for $110 more Next would be your wiring system Then a battery upgrade
? Im running 2alpine type x on 3 k rms is that 2 much for them also im running 4 gauge power and grounds and im getting clipping at low gain so im assuming i need the big 3 upgrade and thinker wire from battery to amp please let me know what u think
Everyone says a power wire to amps should be fused to protect the wire in the case of a dead short. Shouldn't the alternator positive not be fused by the battery as the alternator side is exposed to movement and vibrations?
Because youre not breaking the circuit between your battery and vehicle you shouldnt need too. But if you are working alone then you can disconnect the ground in case youre not comfortable.
Can I hook up a 2000w or a 3000w amp to Memphis PR subs? Some people have hooked up a 1000w amp to those subs but I'm wondering if it's possible to hook up a bigger watt amp.
My battery is in the trunk can I just run the cord from the alternator to my fuse box positive power cable that comes from the battery??? Would be alot easier for me.
No, the idea is that all wires from the battery to the alternator are larger size than factory. If you have a 1000 watt amp for example you will need a 1/0 wire all the way from the front to the back.
Riley Powell yes that is a normal big three upgrade if you upgrade your Alt then you may want to run another ground from the alt ground to negative battery. Search Big 4 Upgrade lol Have a good one
Never hook the positive wire to the alternator with the positive battery terminal connected to the battery post. This connection is hot even with the key on, and if you happen to short out the ratchet to ground, you run the risk of burning out the factory fusible link.
It's probably a fusible link, like a special section of wire that sacrifices itself instead of burning up the harness. They are usually located close to the battery. An auto shop can find it and change it for you.
@@jamespaulson5486 I was referring to the video. Why is there no fuse on the new positive wire. If it's a leased car and your going to remove everything you added to the car cool, but it is not clear if he removed it or not, to newbies if nothing is fused on that run of wire it could possibly burn the car up
If you're running over 21,000w RMS and you don't know what you need in order to feed that system, you are already wrong on so many levels dude. I'd suggest reading up a little bit for your own well being rather than relying on other people to hook your stuff up.
So you don't fuse it from between alternator positive and battery positive? I saw a few videos where they run from alternator positive fuse it then run another wire from fuse holder to battery positive
Yes you need a fuse on the alternator power wire. Not sure why he didn’t do this. He mentioned that you COULD put one as if it doesn’t matter. It does matter and you do need one.
We are installing a 390 amp alternator on this today. on 3k rms you can get away with just a secondary battery, northstar smsagm220, or northstar agm31, and will supply and hold save voltage. but a high output alternator is suggested due to the increased performance
Battery type doesn't matter at all. You will gain nothing using some over priced northstar or some wonder battery. Get a larger alternator that will over supply the total vehicle load and be done with it. You can run a STOCK battery if you do this. What? Your alternator CREATES the voltage and current. Batteries just STORE it.
I am gonna throw this out, I do agree with Jim. When using your amp or any electrical device. All devices in your vehicle will pull the higher voltage source. Once you are pulling all of that then your batteries will kick in. This is also why I recommend using large capacitor banks, because capacitors will store the voltage and help keep that higher thus giving your amps that higher performance. Upgrade the alternator and throw a large cap bank in there.
Whats up BASSHEADS!
1/0 AWG GP Audio Made in the USA Ultra Pure OFHC Copper Big 3 kits $59.99 SHIPPED
gpcaraudio.com/gp-no-bs-wiring/amp-kits-big-3-kits/
I have a 1984 Porsche 911 with the battery in the front and the engine in the back making it difficult to do the alternator. Is there a benefit in just doing the negative chassis upgrade only?
So 1 power wire from alternator to battery, 1 ground wire from alternator structure to battery, and 1 ground wire from chassis to battery?
www.GPcarAudio.com
Sick.
I'm gonna seriously consider doing this. Definitely Subscribed after seeing this video.
It’s nice to know that even at the most professional level you can set a bolt down for one second then literally two seconds later wonder where the hell you set that bolt at LOL love the content guys
LMAO, true. I hate it when that happens. Bolts, nuts and tools, it can really drive u insane sometimes
Just like in real life lmao
Honestly, I just either fill my pockets, or I have a regular little box (Tupperware) I bought that I just keep on my tool box.
Whenever I do any job.
I grab the following.
My cell phone
My cordless ratchet
My tool bag
And the little box
Pretty much everything I need
5:11 I wish beer came with your Big 3 kit . Let's see if we can make that happen GP .
Major Wilkes Jr. lol
Lol that would be an interesting kit
What's crazy is at 6:44 you finished the sentence "it's just gonna take us maybe ten more minutes to complete install here" and the video ends in exactly ten more minutes.
Thanks for this video, because I ran the big three upgrade and some other video suggested to run the alternator ground off of the frame where the engine block grounded. Let me tell you It arced in me. Then I remembered how these professional guys sounded and made it seem simple and it was. I ran 1/0 awg wire,straight we’lding cable. My car jams now, all the way around at 14.65 volts ! I love it
I know that a short to ground on the alt to battery power wire will be virtually zero but what if the alternator rectifier goes bad and shorts out? Doesn't the stock amp to battery have a fuseable wire at the junction box?
Hi, thanks for your help with this video! I have a question: why isn't a larger cable added for the alternator ground, but only a large positive is added?
I went negative on battery to chassis...5 inch wire. You went negative to engine block. What should I do? Make a 4th going from negative to block or replace my negative to chassis?
One more question.. Do pure copper ring terminals make any difference or do the gold plated or aluminum work just the same? Is it worth the hassle changing them out?
Are you leaving the original wiring connected in addition to adding the new wires?
nice explanation of the upgrade..my only question is when connecting the grounds did they make a spark cuz my did..I wanted to make sure I'm making my connections correctly.
Any reason why you used non-tinned copper ring terminals versus tinned ones? Thanks.
Sir I want to ask..my alternator is 100amps output..I installed power wire directly into positive of alternator to the positive of the battery with 150 amps fuse..Iam also having sound system 2 amplifiers also with fuse but lower amps..my question is shall I need to replace the fuse of may power amplifier into 150amps??coz its all connected to the battery??to avoid toasting of fuse??
Yo! Appreciate the info...👮🏽♂️👍🏽
Question... Do I need to disconnect the NEGATIVE first, before hooking up the POSITIVE from the alternator to the positive battery post? And then, the NEGATIVE from alternator to negative battery post?
I don't wanna fry any components...🔥
What did you do with the original 12 volt cable that was on the alternator before the upgrade ❓
You just add the zero gauge you don't remove any stock wire
So just add it with the alternate wire
Does the chasis ground wire go from the body of the vehicle to the battery?
Yoooo when I run an extra wire from the alternator power directly to the battery power should I keep the factory one running to the fuse box ?? I will one running 1 10 inch Skar Audio 1200 watt Sdr series
Are those top post terminals on that north star battery if so do you have a link of where I can buy them
You give a very detailed install and that’s how it should be done thumbs way up !!!! Glad I just subscribed should of done it a lot sooner
Going over the cvpi electrical diagram , a fusable link is required from the 200amp alt to the battery. Do you not need that or a circuit breaker of 250a
What about for a Chrysler 300 when the battery is in the trunk. What’s the best way to run the big 3.
Do you need to put in a better battery and alternator to do the big 3?? Or can you do the big 3 on factory battery and alternator!?
Ramon Strong you can Definetly install the big 3 without upgrading the stock battery or alternator, it makes a big difference. Then from there upgrading the battery and alternator just increases the results even more
Thank You.... For letting me know!!
Ramon Strong no problem
Hi, is it safe to connect charging wire from battery to alternator without passing thru the fuse?
Hey thanks you guys. I bought the kit with you guys and it's way better than I thought it could be. It's amazing. And ya'll sent it here so fast. Hey really thanks.
If you add a second battery; would run a positive cable straight to the second battery or use a isolator?
skip the isolator, you want to be able to tap into the underhood battery power also. positive to positive from battery to battery, fused on each end to isolate the run
Thanks guys.
I got a question do I gotta unplug the battery or anything before I install the big 3 kit so I won’t get shocked or spark anything ?
Duh🤦🏾♂️.. I would disconnect the battery positive so that you don't arc yourself or car to death
For your original negative wire that connects to post of battery.....what did you do to it? Did you take out? Cut and put new lug on it? Wondering bc I have the 6 spot flat terminals as well and I’m not sure what to do with that specific negative
I have the same thing. I just order my big 3 I’m going to cut the wire and put a terminal. Never hurts to have extra power and ground lol
Does the ground cable need to be touching the alternator or can it be connected to the alternator mounting bracket? I have mine connected with the same mounting bolt you guys used, but my cable is against just the bracket instead
As long as the grounding point is conductive. Take your meter, from the - battery terminal to the alternator.
Does it not need to be fused from the alternator to the battery? I just bought your kit and getting ready to install it but some videos show them fusing it. Thank you in advance
Do you guys sell plastic battery terminal covers?
Got some questions.1)are these only for older cars?2)I have 2017 Subaru Legacy with stock audio system,but have some led bars installed,would it be ok to install these Big 3 upgrade even though I don’t plan on installing aftermarket sound systems?and also power from battery to alternator doesn’t it need to be fused?and how would I know what amp of fuse I need,?i plan on getting your 1/0 gauge kit,thanks
No they work for any car today and I put in my big 3 kit and it doesn’t have any other fuses than what was factory with the truck it’s just letting your alternator provide maximum power to the battery and electrical systems as it can
Would Like to know what you paint over the bolt on the frame to keep it from oxidizing and sealing it?
Cars and beer. Love it. Just ran my big 3 wire kit as well. Nice work. 👍
Cars, beer & poosay. *Edit*
Did u run a fuse with your big three??
Questuion are u adding wires or are u replacing the original ones with bigger ones?
Adding wire, leave all stock wiring in place.
AWESOME! What size bolt and thread pitch for the ground to frame?
So the upgraded cables get added on top of the current ones or are they to replace the OEM???
The question I have is do you guys not install a fuse block(250->300A; depending on usage)
Can you make sets that have longer ground leads no other company sells the with longer then 3 feet for chassis two ground wires lifted trucks always need a little bit longer on the grounds 48 to 64 in
All of our universal kits are 48", but just call us direct on the number on the website and we can make anything you need down to the inch.
What drill bit and thread did u use to drill the hole in the chassis at the bottom
Shaquan Hardy
5/16th drill bit and 3/8ths tap, we use flange head 3/8ths bolts to secure the grounds
Shaquan Hardy you can but frame tapping bolts.You just have to drill a pilot hole corresponding to the bolt.they have an appearance with a cone type of thread,and they work great,if you don't have a tap set.or grind frame,and weld a bolt to it,or this.
The big positive wire from alt to battery should be run under the a/c line to match up w the negative. Cut all zip ties w flushcutters.
Can i just run the negative to frame on the side where the battery is, on the iner fender there's a small wire grounding the battery
When I run a second battery in the back of the vehicle can I come directly off of the alternator or do I have to feed it off the 12 volt battery from the front
I went from positive terminal on front battery to positive on back battery
What did you spray on the ground wire under the vehicle so it doesnt rust?
MrWtfjusthappen1 I think that was just a rustolium black spray paint. Or plastidip
How did y’all install the SAE 6 bolt battery terminal from the factory positive and negative wiring?? I have a 2004 Grand Marquis and I would like to add the new terminal
I’ve seen some that run the block wire to the frame. Is it better to run the body and block grounds all to the neg post battery
The ground on the alternator should come out the back of it it goes from ac to DC and alternators ground out the back not the front and the reason why is that the ground now has to go through the whole alternator to get its ground
why was there two wires on that alternator? no fuseable link??
just asking?
larry
mafosa one was stock and one was big 3
One was a ground
If i install the Big 3 should i get an high output alternator also?
How many feet was these wires..I have a 2010 accord sedan..Need to know b4 purchase
In the kit there 4 ft each of 3 wires for the big 3 kit
“b4” This isn’t bingo grandpa
Awesome 👌. Are you all ofhc wire tinned? I see it's for marine use as well.
Just bought my big 3 kit from you guys!
I have my negative from the battery to the frame and from there to the engine block will this work also.
So do you jus leave your existing alt power wire and jus add the 1/0 power wire to it? Also is it necessary to fuse the big 3 power wire that goes fron alt to battery? Seen people do it and people not fuse it. Thanks alot
Do you need to upgrade your alternator to do this?
No, even using your stock alternator, you will drastically benefit from this.
I have a 2004 Grand Marquise and would like to know what do you do with the factor alternator power wire? Also can you give me the link to your Big 3 upgrade kit?
Hey I think you called me earlier and we are getting you taken care of today. If not call the number on our website and we can explain everything crystal clear 👍👍
I’m supposed to have my big 3 done today. I’m bringing 4 gauge wire but I don’t need a second battery?
Ice MAN found out yesterday after almost a month that the ground chassis bolt wasn’t tight AT ALL. Almost was about to fall out so my car was resetting and all kinds of crazy stuff. Perfect now lol Austen banging hard as f at 14.1 v at night with all my lights and AC on in Dallas 100 degree weather :) lol so happy and pissed at the same time lol
Ice MAN need AGM Battery, plus 1/0 gauge to run a big 3. Also go to mechman.com
Ice MAN get the 2ed battery if you beefed you alternator. If your alternator is beefed up and got a good AGM battery, with the big 4... you should be good on steady Volts. I was hitting 30Hz last night on my preferred volume (louse asf) my voltage stayed at 14.0
Ice MAN what system are you running?
Ice MAN do what brand and amps do you have?? I do not understand anything other than SPL 15 inch
I think for pre 2010ish this should be a good thing..but not so much for modern cars and all the electronics...cars electronics today are strict with everything it seems
That's what I'm saying I have a 2018 Kia Sportage and the wires look decent in it comez with a stock 150 amp alternator. I'm running a 1400 RMS amp And a 400 RMS voice amp. But in reality I never do those numbers because I'm only running 1 12 inch sub. So I don't think it would be necessary if I installed the big 3.
does 4 guage wire also work
Yes. Only if true copper wiring tho
ryan black where we get that
Just look for OFC (Oxygen free copper) wire. Make sure the company of whoever makes the wire are true gauge. Stay away from CCA (Copper clad aluminum) wire. A lot of times you'll get cheated with that. They'll give you more jacket than actual true gauge wire. Not only that, but CCA often times does not hold up well to high current draw over time. But CCA is usually a very cheap alternative. Sometimes OFC wire can be a bit iffy depending on the brand, Usually still better than CCA... But, Apparently Welding cable is better than Car audio OFC & CCA wire, because it's 100% copper & very true to it's gauge. So, you just gotta look around.
KmanBeatz what size fuse should i use for 4 gauge goin to a 150 amp alternator
Yes
Can you do a video of the big three on a Tahoe or suburban
Wait should you do this with stock alt or is this just for high powered systems or people with more then one alternator
Real N helps either way
Did you keep the original wiring from the starter to the alternator? I'm doing this an a Chevrolet impala ltz. I need to know if those have to be removed.
No you can go on top of stock wires
Would it matter witch alternator bolt you use for negative battery to the bolt?
No fuse was needed for the big three?? Getting ready to do mine??
I followed this guide to install my Big 3 Upgrade today. Thank you! Only thing is the beauty cover doesn't fit with the wires that high. I had to push them down a bit.
Is there a need 2 have second battrey in your car for the sound?
show the voltage before and after the big three
Shouldn't the hot from the battery to the alt be fused according to the wire size???
Mike Sinur I hear you dont have to its only recommended incase you get in a car accident in a front collision and the wire gets cuts and can start a spark
Gino Partosetiko
My car went up from 13.9 to 14.65 off of a cold start up
@@mikesinur1992 your right buddy, these guys are half job Tony's
Does anybody know why they needed to separate the positive and negative wires?
Hello, I have a '99 Tahoe, my lights flicker, all my exterior and interior lights. Do you have a kit for it, and will it possibly correct the problem?
J R hello, the big 3 will make huge improvements on your electrical flow, we can make a big 3 for the tahoe that is drop-in ready, I have the measurements for it. Call us 10am tp 5pm Monday through Friday and we can be sure you are properly setup per wattage you are trying to run 👍👍
www.GPcarAudio.com Thank you soooo much!
What kind of coating did you use for the second ground? Going to run mine the same way.
I went from negative to chassis about 5 inches of wire. He went negative to engine block. What should I do? Leave it or add a 4th ground?
@@yusufjorgenz5951 both
So when doing the big 3 upgrade you keep the original alternador power wire??
Yes keep all stock wires hooked up. Consider those stock wires are for your normal vehicle operations, and the big 3 an electrical bypass to flow more current on top of that.
Wait...you're not going to fuse that Pos cable from the Alt to the Bat? The factory cable has a fusible link for a reason. Love the ratchet sitting right next to the positive terminal at the end(he actually sat the ratchet on top of the battery earlier). SMH.
Crybaby
Have you ever had any issues by not fusing the alternator to the battery..
How would this work on a 2017 Ford Fusion Hybrid Se? I plan on having a system 1200-1500 watts and beneath my hood is different. I have a stock battery in the left side of my trunk as well.
I would look into getting a higher output alternator first Ether one that is compadable with your fusion Or a Aftermarket one made for your fusion. example My Chevy Blazer Alt stock is a CS-130 rated 85Amp. Tahoe and other GM trucks Use a AD-244 rated 105 to 190 Amp which use the same bolt up and pin connector, (1 inch bigger belt) and sell for only $40 more then the stock CS-130...After market CS-130 - 145Amp sells for $110 more
Next would be your wiring system Then a battery upgrade
James Mb there is no alternator on my car. I’m thinking about just upgrading the rear battery cause I just got the skar Rp1200 with an EVL12
James Mb I honestly don’t know which battery to get
? Im running 2alpine type x on 3 k rms is that 2 much for them also im running 4 gauge power and grounds and im getting clipping at low gain so im assuming i need the big 3 upgrade and thinker wire from battery to amp please let me know what u think
Where do I get the tap to screw the bolt into the frame? Does anyone have a link?
Lowes,home Depot, tractor supply,hardware store
can you do this with 4 AWG gauge ?
Only true copper OFC 100%
Everyone says a power wire to amps should be fused to protect the wire in the case of a dead short. Shouldn't the alternator positive not be fused by the battery as the alternator side is exposed to movement and vibrations?
Damn I wish my alternator was so easily accessible!!! The big 3 is a breeze for you
Amen I have the battery in the trunk terrible
Hi, would it help 2 flex loom the cables? Newbie at the big 3 !
It's preference
Just ordered my 1/0 big 3!
Do I need to unhook the battery terminals from the battery before doing this? Or remove battery altogether?
Thanks
Because youre not breaking the circuit between your battery and vehicle you shouldnt need too. But if you are working alone then you can disconnect the ground in case youre not comfortable.
So I see some people have a fuse between the alternator to the positive battery terminal and some dont is it really necessary ?
Hey I have the same car and year. Is there anyway to get a list of mods you guys did or upgrades to what system you're running
We just started building the car, stay tuned, we are about to install a 390 amp alternator today
If it's a Ford why did you cut out the fuse box relays to the battery
Is their a 2/0 version?
Why not go 4/0 guage
Wait..no fuse for the power to alternator wire?? 👉🌡️⚡⚡⚡🔥💯
I love me some Big 3 GP style I'm actually thinking about replacing mine on my 96 Ford Probe hatchback Se named Praisenator .
nice!
Can I hook up a 2000w or a 3000w amp to Memphis PR subs? Some people have hooked up a 1000w amp to those subs but I'm wondering if it's possible to hook up a bigger watt amp.
My battery is in the trunk can I just run the cord from the alternator to my fuse box positive power cable that comes from the battery??? Would be alot easier for me.
No, the idea is that all wires from the battery to the alternator are larger size than factory. If you have a 1000 watt amp for example you will need a 1/0 wire all the way from the front to the back.
Yes on the positive side you will run from front to back in back just upgrade your chassis ground
Your 2nd cable did you just use your Alt bracket
I noticed the Missouri plates. I'm in MO also. Where is gp car audio located?
I believe in the Joplin area. I used the area code. Lol I'm from the MO too.
Dont you think you should pick a different spot on the frame. A spot that's not going to get so wet? Opening the door for instant rust and corrosion.
He sprayed it
Where did you get that multiple connection silver battery terminal? I like those. 8:04
gpcaraudio.com/gp-audio-sae-style-6-spot-machined-battery-terminals/
I grounded my engine block and battery to the frame, then ran power from alt to batt. 3000 watts, but 2 runs of 1/0 each. Is this alright?
Riley Powell yes that is a normal big three upgrade if you upgrade your Alt then you may want to run another ground from the alt ground to negative battery. Search Big 4 Upgrade lol Have a good one
Never hook the positive wire to the alternator with the positive battery terminal connected to the battery post. This connection is hot even with the key on, and if you happen to short out the ratchet to ground, you run the risk of burning out the factory fusible link.
Damn where is the fuse between the alternator and the battery???
It's probably a fusible link, like a special section of wire that sacrifices itself instead of burning up the harness. They are usually located close to the battery. An auto shop can find it and change it for you.
@@jamespaulson5486 I was referring to the video. Why is there no fuse on the new positive wire. If it's a leased car and your going to remove everything you added to the car cool, but it is not clear if he removed it or not, to newbies if nothing is fused on that run of wire it could possibly burn the car up
What will i need to do if i im running over 21000 rms. big 3 wisevplz help gp audio.
If you're running 21k you're going to need multiple alts and batteries.
If you're running over 21,000w RMS and you don't know what you need in order to feed that system, you are already wrong on so many levels dude. I'd suggest reading up a little bit for your own well being rather than relying on other people to hook your stuff up.
I have a crown Vic and done this but the top alternator bolt will not fit the 0 gauge and stock connection. Do I need that stock wire bolted up?
isn't the engine block one supposed to go to the chasie?
Timmy A ya that's what I been seen
It can be but it only has to be 2 grounds u choose which one is better or easier to do
wade Eldred is basically the same just the 4 is one more ground plus u can never have enough grounds
So upgrade the engine ground and add an additional ground to the battery making it the big 4?
Timmy A name of the song
Why is your negative hooked up the entire time??? I heard it loosen after you've put both powers on...
So you don't fuse it from between alternator positive and battery positive? I saw a few videos where they run from alternator positive fuse it then run another wire from fuse holder to battery positive
Yes you need a fuse on the alternator power wire. Not sure why he didn’t do this. He mentioned that you COULD put one as if it doesn’t matter. It does matter and you do need one.
If your running 3000w is there a need for an upgraded alternator?? Also is your alternator stock?
Mark Pulford upgrade the alternator
We are installing a 390 amp alternator on this today. on 3k rms you can get away with just a secondary battery, northstar smsagm220, or northstar agm31, and will supply and hold save voltage. but a high output alternator is suggested due to the increased performance
Battery type doesn't matter at all. You will gain nothing using some over priced northstar or some wonder battery. Get a larger alternator that will over supply the total vehicle load and be done with it. You can run a STOCK battery if you do this. What? Your alternator CREATES the voltage and current. Batteries just STORE it.
I am gonna throw this out, I do agree with Jim. When using your amp or any electrical device. All devices in your vehicle will pull the higher voltage source. Once you are pulling all of that then your batteries will kick in. This is also why I recommend using large capacitor banks, because capacitors will store the voltage and help keep that higher thus giving your amps that higher performance. Upgrade the alternator and throw a large cap bank in there.
What size of wire do you use for the big 3