I use to really like D2, and I guess I still do to a point, but for me its 14c on my lower priced knives if I can help it. Just all about the maintenance part of it.
Well done production. Simple and clean. I see the effort you put in. I'm looking to upgrade/replace an old venev diamond stone that is equivalent to a 400/800. Finally got my hands on some k390 too. I can get it pretty damn close to what I want on the atoma 140 and strop, but I feel like that doesn't get me all the way there. Probably need more practice. Anyway, the old venevs have always loaded up way too fast, so I do want something better, even if they're newer venevs. Any recs or ideas?
Thanks man. My venevs load fast. The newer ones are a little better though. The venev stones are the best you can get at that price. Try mineral/baby oil to clean them. Works great. Silicone carbide stones are great too and cheap. Or just a 400-600 diamond plate might get where you want. 140 plates are really aggressive.
@@steel2stone @Steel to Stone Thanks. Yeah, that's the path I'm on, but you've tried a lot more stuff than I have, so was hoping you might have other suggestions. No worries... Yes, 140 definitely aggressive, but I like trying to use my technique to come up with a razor sharp edge that still has a lot of bite. It's amazing what I've been able to do by just varying pressure and movement on the stone. I'll try mineral oil. Thanks for the tip. I've been using one of those blue kitchen sponges with cleaning stones and that removes more than I thought it would, but nothing is ideal, as those suckers just load fast. ;)
Bar keepers friend powdered cleaner will take resin bonded diamond/cbn (venev stones are resin bonded diamond) stones back to brand new clean quickly. Also cleans diamond plates like your atoma perfectly. I love my 140 atoma for reprofiling as it removes steel so quickly however that is not a stone that you want to be a finishing stone. Set you bevel with it and go to a higher grit as the apex is going to have super large gouges and vallys in it the carbides in the steel can't do there job. K390 is a hell of a steel that is insanely wear resistant, take it to 400 to 600 grit and yoy will have a toothy sticky edge and edge retention that beats 95% of steels out there. With a steel like that your paying for those carbides as that's what keeps them cutting for so long. You want to give them a properly refined apex so they have ample material surrounding then to keep them from pulling out during use, that 140g edge (on a microscopic level) has huges gouges and gashes in the apexs serrations carbides that those gouges and gashs won't have properly supported structure around them and you will have carbides tearing out during use very quickly. Refine that edge to 400 to 600g and your edge retention will increase substantially. The working edge (what your paying for with steels like k390) retention is strictly because of the carbides.
@@EDCandLace Thanks for taking the time. I haven't had much of a problem cleaning the venevs, it's just that they tend to load up fast. I guess I wasn't super clear about sharpening the k390. I was talking about taking off the factory edge. When I do that with new knives I like to see what I can do with just the atoma and strop with green compound first. Usually I can get knives slicing paper towels with mostly a push cut. Then I finish on the venev, which they say is a 400/800, but it looks and feels more like 800/1000. Anyway, then I finish on my strop with 1 micron diamond spray. That usually gets me to hair-whittling, but I feel like my technique lets me down sometimes and it can be harder to get to that stage. There are a few variables, so I never really know, but I usually get there in the end. It's probably that i have too many knives and don't sharpen enough these days. ;) My main question was about upgrading to a similar performing stone that didn't load up as fast, but that also didn't cost an arm and a leg. I've done my share of looking and still haven't found anything that isn't a considerable jump in price. Recently, in light of current events, I thought I should try a newer venev before they were blocked from selling here or their prices went up. I got the Phoenix series 400/800. Turns out, it's pretty similar to my old venev - but I'm glad I got another one, because I paid under $100 and in less than two months, it's now going for $155. Craziness. Anyway, thanks for the reply. I thought I knew a little something about sharpening until I started listening to BBB. That's pretty much my go to person for all things sharpening. He convinced me to try magnacut too. It's starting to trickle out here and there. Who knows, it might even be on the knife he's designing for Spyderco. That would be cool.
Fast Norton Crystolon JB8 (aggressive) combo oilstone (120/320 grit, ~22$, 8x2x1") and odorless food-safe mineral oil. ua-cam.com/video/V-qGMGisurQ/v-deo.html Comparing a few Coarse stones. Jef Jewell
I found the Beluga a very nice cutting knife... first thing I cut with it was a steak. It cut right through it like warm butter. I believe, I believe it cut better than my St Nick's exclusive Manix 2 XL & my Gail Bradley 2. My opinion!!! I'm wondering... I cut a steak with my Gail Bradley 2 (M4) and it discolored the blade and I've been unable to get it back to what it was!!! Any chance you have a way to get that discoloration off??? Stonewash it??? Any other finish I can maybe get done easily myself that'll protect it in the future???
Mix up some salt water and soak a few potatoes in it for a hour or so. Then slice up the taters with your Bradley. And wash the blade and dry it. That should remove the discoloration. If that doesn't work there are several natural remedies to remove rust. Normal use a lot of times will remove discoloration. In the future keep the blade coated in something like edci if you want to keep it from staining. Or ettch the blade with ferric cloride and stonewash it. You can also patina the blade with vinegar, or mustard to give it a semi permanent patina(discoloration). Then coat it with edci. For me I don't worry about discoloration on carbon steels. It's natural for them to stain. overtime they just get a unique look to them.
Love that sound. Good zen video.
I do love my Beluga!!! Kinda had my doubts, but yeppir, ❤it!!!
I use to really like D2, and I guess I still do to a point, but for me its 14c on my lower priced knives if I can help it. Just all about the maintenance part of it.
I really like 14c too. It's been my favorite for a few years. But if I like the knife I'll forgive the steel choice.
Well done production. Simple and clean. I see the effort you put in.
I'm looking to upgrade/replace an old venev diamond stone that is equivalent to a 400/800. Finally got my hands on some k390 too. I can get it pretty damn close to what I want on the atoma 140 and strop, but I feel like that doesn't get me all the way there. Probably need more practice. Anyway, the old venevs have always loaded up way too fast, so I do want something better, even if they're newer venevs. Any recs or ideas?
Thanks man. My venevs load fast. The newer ones are a little better though. The venev stones are the best you can get at that price. Try mineral/baby oil to clean them. Works great.
Silicone carbide stones are great too and cheap. Or just a 400-600 diamond plate might get where you want. 140 plates are really aggressive.
@@steel2stone @Steel to Stone Thanks. Yeah, that's the path I'm on, but you've tried a lot more stuff than I have, so was hoping you might have other suggestions. No worries...
Yes, 140 definitely aggressive, but I like trying to use my technique to come up with a razor sharp edge that still has a lot of bite. It's amazing what I've been able to do by just varying pressure and movement on the stone. I'll try mineral oil. Thanks for the tip. I've been using one of those blue kitchen sponges with cleaning stones and that removes more than I thought it would, but nothing is ideal, as those suckers just load fast. ;)
Bar keepers friend powdered cleaner will take resin bonded diamond/cbn (venev stones are resin bonded diamond) stones back to brand new clean quickly. Also cleans diamond plates like your atoma perfectly. I love my 140 atoma for reprofiling as it removes steel so quickly however that is not a stone that you want to be a finishing stone. Set you bevel with it and go to a higher grit as the apex is going to have super large gouges and vallys in it the carbides in the steel can't do there job. K390 is a hell of a steel that is insanely wear resistant, take it to 400 to 600 grit and yoy will have a toothy sticky edge and edge retention that beats 95% of steels out there. With a steel like that your paying for those carbides as that's what keeps them cutting for so long. You want to give them a properly refined apex so they have ample material surrounding then to keep them from pulling out during use, that 140g edge (on a microscopic level) has huges gouges and gashes in the apexs serrations carbides that those gouges and gashs won't have properly supported structure around them and you will have carbides tearing out during use very quickly. Refine that edge to 400 to 600g and your edge retention will increase substantially. The working edge (what your paying for with steels like k390) retention is strictly because of the carbides.
@@EDCandLace Thanks for taking the time. I haven't had much of a problem cleaning the venevs, it's just that they tend to load up fast. I guess I wasn't super clear about sharpening the k390. I was talking about taking off the factory edge. When I do that with new knives I like to see what I can do with just the atoma and strop with green compound first. Usually I can get knives slicing paper towels with mostly a push cut. Then I finish on the venev, which they say is a 400/800, but it looks and feels more like 800/1000. Anyway, then I finish on my strop with 1 micron diamond spray. That usually gets me to hair-whittling, but I feel like my technique lets me down sometimes and it can be harder to get to that stage. There are a few variables, so I never really know, but I usually get there in the end. It's probably that i have too many knives and don't sharpen enough these days. ;)
My main question was about upgrading to a similar performing stone that didn't load up as fast, but that also didn't cost an arm and a leg. I've done my share of looking and still haven't found anything that isn't a considerable jump in price. Recently, in light of current events, I thought I should try a newer venev before they were blocked from selling here or their prices went up. I got the Phoenix series 400/800. Turns out, it's pretty similar to my old venev - but I'm glad I got another one, because I paid under $100 and in less than two months, it's now going for $155. Craziness.
Anyway, thanks for the reply. I thought I knew a little something about sharpening until I started listening to BBB. That's pretty much my go to person for all things sharpening. He convinced me to try magnacut too. It's starting to trickle out here and there. Who knows, it might even be on the knife he's designing for Spyderco. That would be cool.
Fast Norton Crystolon JB8 (aggressive) combo oilstone (120/320 grit, ~22$, 8x2x1") and odorless food-safe mineral oil. ua-cam.com/video/V-qGMGisurQ/v-deo.html Comparing a few Coarse stones. Jef Jewell
I found the Beluga a very nice cutting knife... first thing I cut with it was a steak. It cut right through it like warm butter. I believe, I believe it cut better than my St Nick's exclusive Manix 2 XL & my Gail Bradley 2. My opinion!!! I'm wondering... I cut a steak with my Gail Bradley 2 (M4) and it discolored the blade and I've been unable to get it back to what it was!!! Any chance you have a way to get that discoloration off??? Stonewash it??? Any other finish I can maybe get done easily myself that'll protect it in the future???
Mix up some salt water and soak a few potatoes in it for a hour or so. Then slice up the taters with your Bradley. And wash the blade and dry it. That should remove the discoloration.
If that doesn't work there are several natural remedies to remove rust.
Normal use a lot of times will remove discoloration. In the future keep the blade coated in something like edci if you want to keep it from staining. Or ettch the blade with ferric cloride and stonewash it.
You can also patina the blade with vinegar, or mustard to give it a semi permanent patina(discoloration). Then coat it with edci.
For me I don't worry about discoloration on carbon steels. It's natural for them to stain. overtime they just get a unique look to them.
what grit did you use in the stone?