Hi Martin! Thank you!! 🙏 Yeah, I do tend to think out loud....a lot. Seriously though, I wonder if videos like this help folks in their thought process when working on a project?
A much nicer and better detailed kit than the 1/20 Midget Racer repopped by Atlantis, formerly an old vintage Monogram kit. I recently finished this one, but need to get the Revell kit.
I have professionally restored several Kurtis midgets and sprint cars. My father owned and raced a Kurtis-Offy in the 1940s. The engine in that version of the the Kurtis midget is powered by a Ford V8-60 flathead. A small displacement V8 sold as an economy option during the Depression. Rated at 60hp stock. While the regular V8 flathead of the same time was rated at 85hp. Thus V8-60. The heads in the kit represent Edelbrock brand aftermarket aluminum heads. Not an Edelbrock engine. The intake might also represent an Edelbrock aftermarket aluminum manifold. Still not an Edelbrock engine. They are really quite small. Compare to a regular V8 flathead from say...Revell 40 Ford Coupe. The car overall is also QUITE SMALL too. The wheelbase is 72". 6'. Compared to a sprint car at 2' longer with a 96" wheelbase. The seat actually fits pretty well as it is molded. It represents heavy leather that snaps to the outside of the bodywork. It's NOT meant to fit flush. I have every confidence that you will build a beautiful model like usual. But a little knowledge may help. Now I'll watch some more. The satin finish on the wheels is intentional and accurate to as-cast, unpolished wheels The chrome color would represent polished magnesium. So a little confusion there. The wheels would have one of 3 finishes: 1. As cast, which would be mildly rough and dark metallic gray color. 2. Painted. That would be a gloss color, most common gold. 3. Polished. Smooth and bright like straight up chrome.
Hi Dusty! Dude! Thank you so much for the info! I can only look up so much online. The smaller flathead makes a lot of sense! I presume they would have standard size sparkplugs? I ask because I want to wire the engine and don't want the plug boots looking too large. Thanks again for the help! BG
Hi Bryan! The midget is looking really nice. You're making good progress on the little kit. Looks like you have the challenges well in hand. I usually use bleach to strip chrome (now a days you have to add some water to get it really working). It's usually a few minute process too. Then the bleach goes down the drain to strip the nasties out of there. That bubbling action was intriguing.
Hi Vince! I used to use bleach, but after being a massage therapist for several nurses the smell of bleach causes me big time headaches now. Just being around the stuff makes me a little ill. (Long story)
Bryan, first can you imagine going 100 mph in that little car on dirt with a dozen more like zooming around you? I have ordered direct from Green Stuff World and I was surprised how little the shipping was and how fast the service was.
Hi James! Right?!? Oh my goodness that must be like trying to drive in a wasp swarm! Ok, glad to hear that. I was looking at eBay and of course they wanted $$ for shipping!
I am not any good at using putties. So I have been using Mr. Surfacer 500 to fill in capes. It works for me. Did you see the video on the ‘66 Ford Fairlane 500? I used the Mr. Surfacer to fill the big gaps in the hood scoop.
Hi Sammy, I am not good with putty either. Seems like a slow and tedious process. This green s tuff works really well and I like using the Tamiya primer that comes in a jar. Very similar principle to the Me Surfacer 500. Also, good for 3D printed objects it helps fill in the layer lines. 😊
if there is a gaming, think warhammer, store near you, they may carry greenstuff putty. our local gaming store carries it. Nice progress on the midget racer.
Hi Dean! Oh wow! Thanks for the idea, didn't even consider that. I think there is a place in Glendale. I have been wanting to stop in and check it out.
Looks like a cool little racer. Are you familiar with Paul's builds at Open Exhaust Models on UA-cam? He's in Australia and does a lot of this kind of build. (I had to do a double take on your chrome stripper, it looks like a urine sample). 😆🤔
Hey Brian I'm going to help you a little bit here the seat does look like that because it overlaps the body because it has snaps running down around the seat right at the edge of the body work please take a look at real pictures you will see it very plainly
Hi William! Thank you! I have been studying photos of the real cars and see what you are talking about. Thanks for your help!! Do you have experience with these little racers?
@@BGsModelWorkshop yes sir Brian I have built in many of those kits the pitfalls with those are the scale Brian you got it just about all covered there the trailer is finicky but it can be done it is scaled down because it is a midget it's not a full-size Sprint car you got everything correct that I could see so far yes but that doesn't involve putting little pinheads around the seat from where the seat begins to the top because on the top is where the fuel tank is where that little cutback is covered the little wedge that's where the fuel goes in that whole thing is padded up there Brian as a headrest good luck model on
I approve of William's comments here. Yes, the rearward point at the top of the seat covers a round hole in the tail bodywork over the fuel filler cap on top of the tank. "Fuel" because these cars do not run on gasoline. They run on methanol. See my other comment that tells how I know.
Thanks Dusty. Good stuff!! I didn't realize the head rest hid the filler for the fuel tank! 😮 I had a feeling the tank was located in the rear (makes sense) but didn't know how to get it.
Great progress so far. How is the paint going to react with the fabric paint thay came out behind the seat? Just kind of wondering if that will show. That chrome remover worked great. Looks like it took it down to bare plastic. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Alan! So far I haven't had a bad reaction with the fabric paint. I have used that trick a number of times on projects. I learned about it from Brad Hair Productions. Tamiya primer covers it with no issues.
Great little kit!!! Nostalgia classic!!!
Exactly!! 😁 I would love to see these run!
Excellent progress on this little racer ,good to listen to your thought process when dealing with the assembly. All the best Martin
Hi Martin! Thank you!! 🙏 Yeah, I do tend to think out loud....a lot. Seriously though, I wonder if videos like this help folks in their thought process when working on a project?
Yes most definitely in my opinion
Wow she's looking good
Thank you Travis!! I certainly hope the gloss black paint goes well.
Looking good
Thank you Chester!! 😊 Now, it's all about the gloss black paint! Fingers crossed!!!!😁
Cool kit BG! It's looking good! 😎👍
Thank you!!! 🙏😊 Fingers crossed it goes well from here!
Looking good BG its coming together real nice think it will turn out better then expected,
here to help you along🍪🍪🍪🍪
Thanks Deen!! All the cookies please!! 😀
Nice work so far. I agree stripping the chrome was a good idea. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Michael!! 😁
Is coming along nicely 👍👍
Thank you, Charles 😀
Awesome!! I'm really liking this little thing!
Hi Mark! Do you have one of these in your stash? I think you could really trick one out! 😉
@@BGsModelWorkshop I actually don’t have this one in the stash. But after seeing this one and the nifty trailer, that may have to change! lol
😁😁😁
looking awesome BG.
Thank you!!!!😁🙏
Awesome update on the midget Bryan. Will be fun to see when you start getting paint on it. Ron
Thanks Ron!! I love how a slick black paint job looks. However! I hate prepping for a slick black paint job though! Lol
Great start!
Thanks Billy!! 😁
The Kurtis Midget is looking good Bryan. It's such a delicate looking kit. A low carb racer for the population. Take care Bryan.
Tom S.
Hi Tom! Exactly! I feel like I will break every piece!! 🤦 Trying to take my time with it so I don't. 😁
I love those kits. I have built 4 of them so far. My grandpa used to race one of those in the late 40's. I posted a picture on your facebook. Thanks
Hi Sam, thanks bud! Oh man, that must have a blast!! I couldn't imagine running one of these at literally breakneck speeds!!
That was a great update, learned a lot. Thanks. Looks good so far.
Very welcome Dale!
Midget is coming along nicely Bryan
Thank you Tom!! 😁 I'm going to try and build this one with just some wiring and that it.
A much nicer and better detailed kit than the 1/20 Midget Racer repopped by Atlantis, formerly an old vintage Monogram kit. I recently finished this one, but need to get the Revell kit.
I was wondering about that Atlantis kit. I think you just sorted out my desire for that kit. LOL. If you find one of these Revell kits, snag it!!!😁
Off to a great start, brother! ✌️😁
Thank you brother! 😊 Such a small model makes me feel like I make a lot of progress for little effort! LOL
This is such a cool lil car. Looking forward to seeing your finished model
Thank you!! It certainly is fiddly!! 😁
I have professionally restored several Kurtis midgets and sprint cars. My father owned and raced a Kurtis-Offy in the 1940s.
The engine in that version of the the Kurtis midget is powered by a Ford V8-60 flathead. A small displacement V8 sold as an economy option during the Depression. Rated at 60hp stock. While the regular V8 flathead of the same time was rated at 85hp. Thus V8-60. The heads in the kit represent Edelbrock brand aftermarket aluminum heads. Not an Edelbrock engine. The intake might also represent an Edelbrock aftermarket aluminum manifold. Still not an Edelbrock engine.
They are really quite small. Compare to a regular V8 flathead from say...Revell 40 Ford Coupe.
The car overall is also QUITE SMALL too. The wheelbase is 72". 6'. Compared to a sprint car at 2' longer with a 96" wheelbase.
The seat actually fits pretty well as it is molded. It represents heavy leather that snaps to the outside of the bodywork. It's NOT meant to fit flush.
I have every confidence that you will build a beautiful model like usual. But a little knowledge may help. Now I'll watch some more.
The satin finish on the wheels is intentional and accurate to as-cast, unpolished wheels The chrome color would represent polished magnesium. So a little confusion there. The wheels would have one of 3 finishes:
1. As cast, which would be mildly rough and dark metallic gray color.
2. Painted. That would be a gloss color, most common gold.
3. Polished. Smooth and bright like straight up chrome.
Hi Dusty!
Dude! Thank you so much for the info! I can only look up so much online. The smaller flathead makes a lot of sense! I presume they would have standard size sparkplugs? I ask because I want to wire the engine and don't want the plug boots looking too large.
Thanks again for the help!
BG
👍👍
Hi Bryan! The midget is looking really nice. You're making good progress on the little kit. Looks like you have the challenges well in hand. I usually use bleach to strip chrome (now a days you have to add some water to get it really working). It's usually a few minute process too. Then the bleach goes down the drain to strip the nasties out of there. That bubbling action was intriguing.
Hi Vince! I used to use bleach, but after being a massage therapist for several nurses the smell of bleach causes me big time headaches now. Just being around the stuff makes me a little ill. (Long story)
@@BGsModelWorkshop I don't strip chroma as often as I probably should. But I'm thinking of use Fabuloso. it looks like it works really well.
That's looking pretty cool.
I didn't know Fabuloso can strip chome parts 😆
I'm sure it can! I think 409 does too!
Lookin good bud your officially ahead of me on this group build lol good job bud
Thanks Mike!! Hope you can still get some bench time now that summer is on the way!
Yeah summer is good bench time its to hot to be outside lol
Boy howdy!! Lol
Vallejo makes a filler that you can wipe the excess with just water. I use it because of no fumes it it hardens well
Hi Carl! You know what, I just ordered some and it is in the way! Thank you!! 🙏😊
This is what I was going to suggest, it works great for exactly this type of application - I have used for several car over fenders and Panel gaps.
Perfect!!!!
Bryan, first can you imagine going 100 mph in that little car on dirt with a dozen more like zooming around you? I have ordered direct from Green Stuff World and I was surprised how little the shipping was and how fast the service was.
Hi James! Right?!? Oh my goodness that must be like trying to drive in a wasp swarm! Ok, glad to hear that. I was looking at eBay and of course they wanted $$ for shipping!
I was just on their web site. There are a few things that I'm thinking about ordering. They have a lot of helpful items.
Nice progress BG, keep it up👍. Hey, what's that pink rectangle on the upper right of your workbench 😉😉.
Charlie
Pro Tech LLC
😁😁😁 you know it!!
I am not any good at using putties. So I have been using Mr. Surfacer 500 to fill in capes. It works for me. Did you see the video on the ‘66
Ford Fairlane 500? I used the Mr. Surfacer to fill the big gaps in the hood scoop.
Hi Sammy, I am not good with putty either. Seems like a slow and tedious process. This green s tuff works really well and I like using the Tamiya primer that comes in a jar. Very similar principle to the Me Surfacer 500. Also, good for 3D printed objects it helps fill in the layer lines. 😊
if there is a gaming, think warhammer, store near you, they may carry greenstuff putty. our local gaming store carries it. Nice progress on the midget racer.
Hi Dean! Oh wow! Thanks for the idea, didn't even consider that. I think there is a place in Glendale. I have been wanting to stop in and check it out.
Looks like a cool little racer. Are you familiar with Paul's builds at Open Exhaust Models on UA-cam? He's in Australia and does a lot of this kind of build. (I had to do a double take on your chrome stripper, it looks like a urine sample). 😆🤔
Hi Steve, oh yes, I watch Paul as often as I can. LOL, I hope I didn't get my samples mixed up! Yeesh!! No wonder why it worked so well! 🤣
Hey Brian I'm going to help you a little bit here the seat does look like that because it overlaps the body because it has snaps running down around the seat right at the edge of the body work please take a look at real pictures you will see it very plainly
Hi William! Thank you! I have been studying photos of the real cars and see what you are talking about. Thanks for your help!! Do you have experience with these little racers?
@@BGsModelWorkshop yes sir Brian I have built in many of those kits the pitfalls with those are the scale Brian you got it just about all covered there the trailer is finicky but it can be done it is scaled down because it is a midget it's not a full-size Sprint car you got everything correct that I could see so far yes but that doesn't involve putting little pinheads around the seat from where the seat begins to the top because on the top is where the fuel tank is where that little cutback is covered the little wedge that's where the fuel goes in that whole thing is padded up there Brian as a headrest good luck model on
I approve of William's comments here. Yes, the rearward point at the top of the seat covers a round hole in the tail bodywork over the fuel filler cap on top of the tank. "Fuel" because these cars do not run on gasoline. They run on methanol.
See my other comment that tells how I know.
Thanks again William..you have me thinking of adding some sort of "snaps" around the edge of the seat where it attaches to the body. 🤔
Thanks Dusty. Good stuff!! I didn't realize the head rest hid the filler for the fuel tank! 😮 I had a feeling the tank was located in the rear (makes sense) but didn't know how to get it.
Great progress so far. How is the paint going to react with the fabric paint thay came out behind the seat? Just kind of wondering if that will show. That chrome remover worked great. Looks like it took it down to bare plastic. Thanks for sharing.
Hi Alan! So far I haven't had a bad reaction with the fabric paint. I have used that trick a number of times on projects. I learned about it from Brad Hair Productions. Tamiya primer covers it with no issues.
What was that striping material
It's ZEP. It's a concentrated degreaser you can find at Home Depot