Reposted. Ah well, another opportunity to say thanks so much for these intricate insights of the fabulous Merlin.
4 місяці тому+3
Your channel is an absolut gold mine! I wish we had you knowledge when we where in high school. The closest I got to engines like this was the little brother Meteor. My teacher had one and the school had two Meteors and other engines donated by the Swedish military. There where also paletts of unused spares like valves greased up just like your bearing was. We had a permanent engine stand for one Meteor with water cooling and exhaust piping trough the wall of the building so we could run it. Any excuse to run the Meteor we called "taking the Rolls for a walk". Even our math teacher would allow people to take a break and listen to the engine when another class fired it up 😆 Sadly we had very little knowledge when it came to servicing the engines, Peter Grieve would have made an excellent teacher! The amount of knowledge in these videos is so underrated!
Having recently become a “motor head” myself working on Japanese motorcycle engines, I would love to have a chance to work on one of these old Warbird engines (v12 or rotary, both are equally cool in my book). Thanks for posting!
I had the privilege of rebuilding 2 Anzani engines and 1 Gnome 7 cylinder Rotary! Considering when they were built, the engineering is sublime! A real joy to work on but very complex in the simplest way! Almost agricultural in simplicity, but precise machining nonetheless! Having said this, the multi banked big Radial engines are also both complex and astoundingly precise with many more problems than the Rotary by way of over heating, lubrication etc! All of it, very clever design and manufacturing methods, to enable the end result! Cheers
I'd like to use a couple vortec 4200 engines. And cast a v12 block possibly modify the head by cutting the ends off making the center interchangeable. The to make it a right or left head. Just Bolt on the end caps. A front end cap and rear end cap per head. Then an aluminum cam cover. Possibly fabricated, likely cast. Mill the cover from high density foam, then plaster coat and cast on aluminum. Glass bead and polish maybe powder coat . Cast the block in the same way cast a intake manifold the same way. With intake runners being somewhat large diameter and about 10" long similar to a mid to late 80's early 90's Chevrolet V8:tuned port injection intake. And make the runners thicker to allow for porting. The lower center section holding injectors two per cylinder. And possibly make the plenum from carbon fiber and kevlar. With a 4-6mm foam core with 25mm holes filled with carbon fiber to attach the layers making it more Ridgid. With the plenum and it's lid having been 6-8 layers of carbon with at least one layer of kevlar between its going to be thick. With a 6mm stainless plate around the ports and bolt holes in the perimeter with m5 bolts on a roughly 20mm center. With the front of the plenum having an adapter to fit a 102 mm throttle valve, and can easily make another adapter to install twin throttles of 102 mm if a single isn't enough. And cast a pair of stainless turbo headers to also with a tube thickness around 4-5 mm. And a flange thickness of 15-20 mm and a T6 flange with adapter to a T4 twin scroll. With three cylinders feeding each scroll and the stock crank attempt to widen the rod journals slightly and make fork and knife rods with a bearing on the crank modified stock , drill oil holes throughout and a groove. With a hardened steel shell about 6mm thick with a bearing for the knife riding on the steel. The shell having slightly beveled seams polished smooth with 5000 grit sanding belt. The shell having about 6 oil holes about 2mm dia. The rods from 4340 steel possibly slightly hand forged and milled . Using big block chevy rod bolts and main bolts with 4bolt splayed mains. And the front main and second main cap. Having provisions for mounting the big block chevy oil pump and it's drive shaft it having a bushing pressed into a carrier with thrust bushings. Brind oil fed from the main bearing through a 1mm hole with a restrictor to about 0.35-0.50mm using a small m3 grub screw with a tiny hole restricting the oil to the oil pump drive, the bushing being about 35mm long and roughly 15mm with a gear or sprocket being driven off the crank snout. Either in front or behind the timing chains. One set per head. The oil pan being a rear sump or front sump by just swapping the location, of the sump. Having a symmetrical bolt pattern. The oil pump being turned 90° from it's traditional mounting . With the output going into athe #2 main cap passing through into the crankcase to a 15mm outlet to a remote cooler and filter, then return to the crank case in the area around the #3-4 main into a cast in and possibly milled manifold with a 12-15 mm passage feeding all the mains with a 8mm passage feeding from the center main (#3-#4 possibly #5) to the deck or possibly the center of the valley to send oil to each head and a pressure sender. A 3-4 mm hard line piped into each head to lube the cam and valve train if it's not already, center drill the cam with a roughly M6 passage 99% through and drill 1mm holes in the journals and bottom of the cam lobes possibly 0.8mm holes. If it's required use a high volume pump.. and also incorporate mounting to install a pump on both sides of the main caps. To either double the volume or to scavenge the pan in a simple dry sump system. With a 8-9 quart sump or 16-18;quart oil tank. The cylinder block having oil returns in the rear through a 10-12 mm passage to the sump. And down the front with the timing chains. The front cover being fabricated from a 12mm sheet of aluminum. Doubled around the perimeter and doubled or triple around the crank seal area welded together and milled to shape and possibly welded and milled again. With the backside relieved to clear the chains . And a timing pointer tab bolting on. The crank if the stock 4.2 crank can't be used with the fork and knife rods , fabricate another using 1"/25mm plate steel and hollow bar for the mains. A 2.5"- 3" hollow bar with about 1" hole , a long with a bit of 4" solid round bar and 2"- 3" solid bar. The large bit about 6"-8" to make the rear flange and main of the crank with to mount the flywheel . A seal area. And a main journal with a good bit to fit into the counterweight and throw of the crank plasma or flame cut from 1" or so thick steel. With the area weld prepped to allow for a full penetration weld. Leaving extra material to allow the fully welded crank to be heat treated , milled to rough dimensions and the journals hardened the ground less than .010" and polished. Balanced. Hopefully it will weigh less than a Chevy V8:crank having hollow rod and main journals. With the oil passage from the mains to the rods being steel tubing silver soldered on place with 3/16" brake line basically with the journals being about 20-23mm thick same for the mains. The 6 rod journals and 7 main crank should weigh 30-45, maybe 50, lbs(pounds) a Chevy 350 crank can weigh 50-60 , a lighter cast steel crank weigh 43-46 lbs an ultralight crank aftermarket, with all the hollowness I mentioned and the flange scalloped around the bolt holes. And the flange hollow with a plug pressed in(maybe I'll do this also, bore a 30mm hole in the rear main. Then thread the hole about 20mm of it anyway, then make an aluminum plug about 15mm long with a interference fit. Heat the crank to about 250°F, and chill the plug to 0°F to -20°F then quickly run the plug in with lock tight. To seal it. When it cools it's not coming out the aluminum plug being exactly the same size as the threaded hole. Maybe mill it to hold the bearing for the transmission input shaft) it should also have a the traditional Chevy V8 Crank flywheel bolt pattern. Using a internal balanced. And the block having the 90°/V8 bell housing pattern. So a SBC, BBC, LS transmission will fit. And possibly add a bit of stroke to the crank. Possibly getting at least 4.3 litres from each bank. A 8.4 - 8.6 litre v12 is a bit on the serious side. Especially with boost! At least 1500 HP, possibly incorporate a air to water intercooler inside the intake plenum. And inject a 50% methanol nitro mix into a methanol it should easily eclipse 2400 HP with 35 psi (+/-) it would likely require a high current ignition with a distributor or pair of them. One for each bank with a 30 KC .250 amp coil with solid core wires and solid brass contacts in the cap and rotor. Use two 6cyl HEi distributors cast a housing to hold both caps with a oil feed to lube the gears and bushing (or roller bearings) having the camshaft on one bank drive both distributors! Probably the right bank , facing the front . Possibly using a bevel gear. Using the distributor ad a trigger to operate two ignition boxes two high current coils, solid wires and a braided jacket with it grounded to reduce emi. With side gapped racing plugs, non resistor if possible. The fuel rich environment that nitro requires should really spool the turbos . Probably should look at having scat or someone make a proper crankshaft. Not Shure how a welded crank will hold up. Even if it is normalized and heat treated, with the journals tempered. A scat cast steel crank will probably hold up well!.. I'd like to put it in a old Chevy truck 55-57, ot 65-71. With a 5-6 speed , with a dual 4" exhaust with flow master pro series mufflers with a turn out in front of the rear tire, a 20x10 with 305-35/40-20, 255-275-40-20 on front, have a street tune to run on 89-93 octane with water methanol injection with 3fuel cells, a 10: gallon band two 5 gallon cells , and a 5gallon water/methanol tank, one for methanol or nitro methanol the other with av100 with it plumbed to mix with the big cell. Adding 25% to the 93 octane . Have a knock sensor with a light to show when it is seeing a knock/detonation so 100 octane can be added. Sorry to ramble , have an awesome day🎉
Reposted. Ah well, another opportunity to say thanks so much for these intricate insights of the fabulous Merlin.
Your channel is an absolut gold mine!
I wish we had you knowledge when we where in high school.
The closest I got to engines like this was the little brother Meteor.
My teacher had one and the school had two Meteors and other engines donated by the Swedish military.
There where also paletts of unused spares like valves greased up just like your bearing was.
We had a permanent engine stand for one Meteor with water cooling and exhaust piping trough the wall of the building so we could run it.
Any excuse to run the Meteor we called "taking the Rolls for a walk".
Even our math teacher would allow people to take a break and listen to the engine when another class fired it up 😆
Sadly we had very little knowledge when it came to servicing the engines, Peter Grieve would have made an excellent teacher!
The amount of knowledge in these videos is so underrated!
Incredible. Love the mindful approach corresponding with the object rather than just going through a process. Impressive and reassuring.
Brilliant, I love every build video that comes from this channel, it’s absolutely fascinating.
Glad you enjoy it!
Those castings are exquisite. I can only imagine the cost of reproducing them today.
Great channel, cheers from New Zealand.
Having recently become a “motor head” myself working on Japanese motorcycle engines, I would love to have a chance to work on one of these old Warbird engines (v12 or rotary, both are equally cool in my book). Thanks for posting!
I had the privilege of rebuilding 2 Anzani engines and 1 Gnome 7 cylinder Rotary! Considering when they were built, the engineering is sublime! A real joy to work on but very complex in the simplest way! Almost agricultural in simplicity, but precise machining nonetheless! Having said this, the multi banked big Radial engines are also both complex and astoundingly precise with many more problems than the Rotary by way of over heating, lubrication etc! All of it, very clever design and manufacturing methods, to enable the end result! Cheers
its like they had a surplus of bolts to get rid of...
i would go slightly insane doing all them up...
Thanks for this always cool to see.
Brilliant,thanks.
Can also recommend Sir Stanley Hookers book. It’s brilliant.
You were wasted at Pirelli Peter. This is fascinating
I'd like to use a couple vortec 4200 engines. And cast a v12 block possibly modify the head by cutting the ends off making the center interchangeable. The to make it a right or left head. Just Bolt on the end caps. A front end cap and rear end cap per head. Then an aluminum cam cover. Possibly fabricated, likely cast. Mill the cover from high density foam, then plaster coat and cast on aluminum. Glass bead and polish maybe powder coat . Cast the block in the same way cast a intake manifold the same way. With intake runners being somewhat large diameter and about 10" long similar to a mid to late 80's early 90's Chevrolet V8:tuned port injection intake. And make the runners thicker to allow for porting. The lower center section holding injectors two per cylinder. And possibly make the plenum from carbon fiber and kevlar. With a 4-6mm foam core with 25mm holes filled with carbon fiber to attach the layers making it more Ridgid. With the plenum and it's lid having been 6-8 layers of carbon with at least one layer of kevlar between its going to be thick. With a 6mm stainless plate around the ports and bolt holes in the perimeter with m5 bolts on a roughly 20mm center. With the front of the plenum having an adapter to fit a 102 mm throttle valve, and can easily make another adapter to install twin throttles of 102 mm if a single isn't enough. And cast a pair of stainless turbo headers to also with a tube thickness around 4-5 mm. And a flange thickness of 15-20 mm and a T6 flange with adapter to a T4 twin scroll. With three cylinders feeding each scroll and the stock crank attempt to widen the rod journals slightly and make fork and knife rods with a bearing on the crank modified stock , drill oil holes throughout and a groove. With a hardened steel shell about 6mm thick with a bearing for the knife riding on the steel. The shell having slightly beveled seams polished smooth with 5000 grit sanding belt. The shell having about 6 oil holes about 2mm dia. The rods from 4340 steel possibly slightly hand forged and milled . Using big block chevy rod bolts and main bolts with 4bolt splayed mains. And the front main and second main cap. Having provisions for mounting the big block chevy oil pump and it's drive shaft it having a bushing pressed into a carrier with thrust bushings. Brind oil fed from the main bearing through a 1mm hole with a restrictor to about 0.35-0.50mm using a small m3 grub screw with a tiny hole restricting the oil to the oil pump drive, the bushing being about 35mm long and roughly 15mm with a gear or sprocket being driven off the crank snout. Either in front or behind the timing chains. One set per head. The oil pan being a rear sump or front sump by just swapping the location, of the sump. Having a symmetrical bolt pattern. The oil pump being turned 90° from it's traditional mounting . With the output going into athe #2 main cap passing through into the crankcase to a 15mm outlet to a remote cooler and filter, then return to the crank case in the area around the #3-4 main into a cast in and possibly milled manifold with a 12-15 mm passage feeding all the mains with a 8mm passage feeding from the center main (#3-#4 possibly #5) to the deck or possibly the center of the valley to send oil to each head and a pressure sender. A 3-4 mm hard line piped into each head to lube the cam and valve train if it's not already, center drill the cam with a roughly M6 passage 99% through and drill 1mm holes in the journals and bottom of the cam lobes possibly 0.8mm holes. If it's required use a high volume pump.. and also incorporate mounting to install a pump on both sides of the main caps. To either double the volume or to scavenge the pan in a simple dry sump system. With a 8-9 quart sump or 16-18;quart oil tank. The cylinder block having oil returns in the rear through a 10-12 mm passage to the sump. And down the front with the timing chains. The front cover being fabricated from a 12mm sheet of aluminum. Doubled around the perimeter and doubled or triple around the crank seal area welded together and milled to shape and possibly welded and milled again. With the backside relieved to clear the chains . And a timing pointer tab bolting on. The crank if the stock 4.2 crank can't be used with the fork and knife rods , fabricate another using 1"/25mm plate steel and hollow bar for the mains. A 2.5"- 3" hollow bar with about 1" hole , a long with a bit of 4" solid round bar and 2"- 3" solid bar. The large bit about 6"-8" to make the rear flange and main of the crank with to mount the flywheel . A seal area. And a main journal with a good bit to fit into the counterweight and throw of the crank plasma or flame cut from 1" or so thick steel. With the area weld prepped to allow for a full penetration weld. Leaving extra material to allow the fully welded crank to be heat treated , milled to rough dimensions and the journals hardened the ground less than .010" and polished. Balanced. Hopefully it will weigh less than a Chevy V8:crank having hollow rod and main journals. With the oil passage from the mains to the rods being steel tubing silver soldered on place with 3/16" brake line basically with the journals being about 20-23mm thick same for the mains. The 6 rod journals and 7 main crank should weigh 30-45, maybe 50, lbs(pounds) a Chevy 350 crank can weigh 50-60 , a lighter cast steel crank weigh 43-46 lbs an ultralight crank aftermarket, with all the hollowness I mentioned and the flange scalloped around the bolt holes. And the flange hollow with a plug pressed in(maybe I'll do this also, bore a 30mm hole in the rear main. Then thread the hole about 20mm of it anyway, then make an aluminum plug about 15mm long with a interference fit. Heat the crank to about 250°F, and chill the plug to 0°F to -20°F then quickly run the plug in with lock tight. To seal it. When it cools it's not coming out the aluminum plug being exactly the same size as the threaded hole. Maybe mill it to hold the bearing for the transmission input shaft) it should also have a the traditional Chevy V8 Crank flywheel bolt pattern. Using a internal balanced. And the block having the 90°/V8 bell housing pattern. So a SBC, BBC, LS transmission will fit. And possibly add a bit of stroke to the crank. Possibly getting at least 4.3 litres from each bank. A 8.4 - 8.6 litre v12 is a bit on the serious side. Especially with boost! At least 1500 HP, possibly incorporate a air to water intercooler inside the intake plenum. And inject a 50% methanol nitro mix into a methanol it should easily eclipse 2400 HP with 35 psi (+/-) it would likely require a high current ignition with a distributor or pair of them. One for each bank with a 30 KC .250 amp coil with solid core wires and solid brass contacts in the cap and rotor. Use two 6cyl HEi distributors cast a housing to hold both caps with a oil feed to lube the gears and bushing (or roller bearings) having the camshaft on one bank drive both distributors! Probably the right bank , facing the front . Possibly using a bevel gear. Using the distributor ad a trigger to operate two ignition boxes two high current coils, solid wires and a braided jacket with it grounded to reduce emi. With side gapped racing plugs, non resistor if possible. The fuel rich environment that nitro requires should really spool the turbos . Probably should look at having scat or someone make a proper crankshaft. Not Shure how a welded crank will hold up. Even if it is normalized and heat treated, with the journals tempered. A scat cast steel crank will probably hold up well!.. I'd like to put it in a old Chevy truck 55-57, ot 65-71. With a 5-6 speed , with a dual 4" exhaust with flow master pro series mufflers with a turn out in front of the rear tire, a 20x10 with 305-35/40-20, 255-275-40-20 on front, have a street tune to run on 89-93 octane with water methanol injection with 3fuel cells, a 10: gallon band two 5 gallon cells , and a 5gallon water/methanol tank, one for methanol or nitro methanol the other with av100 with it plumbed to mix with the big cell. Adding 25% to the 93 octane . Have a knock sensor with a light to show when it is seeing a knock/detonation so 100 octane can be added. Sorry to ramble , have an awesome day🎉
a big turbo that ! wheres the super charger hidden i didnt see it in the vid me lol
The supercharger casing is just behind the cylinder block. A circular shape with lots of bolts.
Wonserfulnes