Відео

I am building a Tamiya scale Merlin engine and have a question as unable to find good reference. Does the left magneto send spark to the left AND right lower banks of plugs under the exhaust? Then the right magneto only sends spark to the upper inner banks of plugs left and right?? OR does the right magneto do the lower bank of right plugs AND all the upper inner plugs??? Much appreciated any insight. This would be for a Mark IX Spitfire

Even by today's Technological Standards, the Merlins & Gryphons are still amazing!! Thank goodness for the Enthusiadts Today who are keeping some of these alive!!

Quickie question!? How do you get on for ARB acceptance of mods, repairs etc? I/we found this very complex back in the 60’s, although in all truth I/we were rebuilding Gnome LeCleurget 7 cyl rotary and 2 Anzani 3 cylinder engines at the time! X-ray inspections at the time of chosen materials and proposed methods to be employed? All good fun ! Cheers .. PS I do admire your knowledge, plus we have a similar lathe!

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Wow-no exhaust-kinda rough on valves?

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love this WOW fantastic pete,mave sub to your channal.💯💯💯💯

To use an Americanism… ‘that is awesome!!’ I would happily be your neighbour! I’m a huge Spitfire fan..huge, and a RR Merlin running at high revs sounds just amazing! I love the Griffon, but for me, it’s all about that beautiful Merlin sound.. goosebumps 👏🏼🔥

Merlin is just the perfect name for this engine. It's magical to watch and listening to it and also to marvel at the engineering. Thank you.

How nice to see a cold engine started at low rpm, I'll bet she was pre-oiled too (IAW the AP)

Спасибо!

Love the sound of a Merlin!!

Always impressed with how clean the builds run. Top notch guys.

I'd like to use a couple vortec 4200 engines. And cast a v12 block possibly modify the head by cutting the ends off making the center interchangeable. The to make it a right or left head. Just Bolt on the end caps. A front end cap and rear end cap per head. Then an aluminum cam cover. Possibly fabricated, likely cast. Mill the cover from high density foam, then plaster coat and cast on aluminum. Glass bead and polish maybe powder coat . Cast the block in the same way cast a intake manifold the same way. With intake runners being somewhat large diameter and about 10" long similar to a mid to late 80's early 90's Chevrolet V8:tuned port injection intake. And make the runners thicker to allow for porting. The lower center section holding injectors two per cylinder. And possibly make the plenum from carbon fiber and kevlar. With a 4-6mm foam core with 25mm holes filled with carbon fiber to attach the layers making it more Ridgid. With the plenum and it's lid having been 6-8 layers of carbon with at least one layer of kevlar between its going to be thick. With a 6mm stainless plate around the ports and bolt holes in the perimeter with m5 bolts on a roughly 20mm center. With the front of the plenum having an adapter to fit a 102 mm throttle valve, and can easily make another adapter to install twin throttles of 102 mm if a single isn't enough. And cast a pair of stainless turbo headers to also with a tube thickness around 4-5 mm. And a flange thickness of 15-20 mm and a T6 flange with adapter to a T4 twin scroll. With three cylinders feeding each scroll and the stock crank attempt to widen the rod journals slightly and make fork and knife rods with a bearing on the crank modified stock , drill oil holes throughout and a groove. With a hardened steel shell about 6mm thick with a bearing for the knife riding on the steel. The shell having slightly beveled seams polished smooth with 5000 grit sanding belt. The shell having about 6 oil holes about 2mm dia. The rods from 4340 steel possibly slightly hand forged and milled . Using big block chevy rod bolts and main bolts with 4bolt splayed mains. And the front main and second main cap. Having provisions for mounting the big block chevy oil pump and it's drive shaft it having a bushing pressed into a carrier with thrust bushings. Brind oil fed from the main bearing through a 1mm hole with a restrictor to about 0.35-0.50mm using a small m3 grub screw with a tiny hole restricting the oil to the oil pump drive, the bushing being about 35mm long and roughly 15mm with a gear or sprocket being driven off the crank snout. Either in front or behind the timing chains. One set per head. The oil pan being a rear sump or front sump by just swapping the location, of the sump. Having a symmetrical bolt pattern. The oil pump being turned 90° from it's traditional mounting . With the output going into athe #2 main cap passing through into the crankcase to a 15mm outlet to a remote cooler and filter, then return to the crank case in the area around the #3-4 main into a cast in and possibly milled manifold with a 12-15 mm passage feeding all the mains with a 8mm passage feeding from the center main (#3-#4 possibly #5) to the deck or possibly the center of the valley to send oil to each head and a pressure sender. A 3-4 mm hard line piped into each head to lube the cam and valve train if it's not already, center drill the cam with a roughly M6 passage 99% through and drill 1mm holes in the journals and bottom of the cam lobes possibly 0.8mm holes. If it's required use a high volume pump.. and also incorporate mounting to install a pump on both sides of the main caps. To either double the volume or to scavenge the pan in a simple dry sump system. With a 8-9 quart sump or 16-18;quart oil tank. The cylinder block having oil returns in the rear through a 10-12 mm passage to the sump. And down the front with the timing chains. The front cover being fabricated from a 12mm sheet of aluminum. Doubled around the perimeter and doubled or triple around the crank seal area welded together and milled to shape and possibly welded and milled again. With the backside relieved to clear the chains . And a timing pointer tab bolting on. The crank if the stock 4.2 crank can't be used with the fork and knife rods , fabricate another using 1"/25mm plate steel and hollow bar for the mains. A 2.5"- 3" hollow bar with about 1" hole , a long with a bit of 4" solid round bar and 2"- 3" solid bar. The large bit about 6"-8" to make the rear flange and main of the crank with to mount the flywheel . A seal area. And a main journal with a good bit to fit into the counterweight and throw of the crank plasma or flame cut from 1" or so thick steel. With the area weld prepped to allow for a full penetration weld. Leaving extra material to allow the fully welded crank to be heat treated , milled to rough dimensions and the journals hardened the ground less than .010" and polished. Balanced. Hopefully it will weigh less than a Chevy V8:crank having hollow rod and main journals. With the oil passage from the mains to the rods being steel tubing silver soldered on place with 3/16" brake line basically with the journals being about 20-23mm thick same for the mains. The 6 rod journals and 7 main crank should weigh 30-45, maybe 50, lbs(pounds) a Chevy 350 crank can weigh 50-60 , a lighter cast steel crank weigh 43-46 lbs an ultralight crank aftermarket, with all the hollowness I mentioned and the flange scalloped around the bolt holes. And the flange hollow with a plug pressed in(maybe I'll do this also, bore a 30mm hole in the rear main. Then thread the hole about 20mm of it anyway, then make an aluminum plug about 15mm long with a interference fit. Heat the crank to about 250°F, and chill the plug to 0°F to -20°F then quickly run the plug in with lock tight. To seal it. When it cools it's not coming out the aluminum plug being exactly the same size as the threaded hole. Maybe mill it to hold the bearing for the transmission input shaft) it should also have a the traditional Chevy V8 Crank flywheel bolt pattern. Using a internal balanced. And the block having the 90°/V8 bell housing pattern. So a SBC, BBC, LS transmission will fit. And possibly add a bit of stroke to the crank. Possibly getting at least 4.3 litres from each bank. A 8.4 - 8.6 litre v12 is a bit on the serious side. Especially with boost! At least 1500 HP, possibly incorporate a air to water intercooler inside the intake plenum. And inject a 50% methanol nitro mix into a methanol it should easily eclipse 2400 HP with 35 psi (+/-) it would likely require a high current ignition with a distributor or pair of them. One for each bank with a 30 KC .250 amp coil with solid core wires and solid brass contacts in the cap and rotor. Use two 6cyl HEi distributors cast a housing to hold both caps with a oil feed to lube the gears and bushing (or roller bearings) having the camshaft on one bank drive both distributors! Probably the right bank , facing the front . Possibly using a bevel gear. Using the distributor ad a trigger to operate two ignition boxes two high current coils, solid wires and a braided jacket with it grounded to reduce emi. With side gapped racing plugs, non resistor if possible. The fuel rich environment that nitro requires should really spool the turbos . Probably should look at having scat or someone make a proper crankshaft. Not Shure how a welded crank will hold up. Even if it is normalized and heat treated, with the journals tempered. A scat cast steel crank will probably hold up well!.. I'd like to put it in a old Chevy truck 55-57, ot 65-71. With a 5-6 speed , with a dual 4" exhaust with flow master pro series mufflers with a turn out in front of the rear tire, a 20x10 with 305-35/40-20, 255-275-40-20 on front, have a street tune to run on 89-93 octane with water methanol injection with 3fuel cells, a 10: gallon band two 5 gallon cells , and a 5gallon water/methanol tank, one for methanol or nitro methanol the other with av100 with it plumbed to mix with the big cell. Adding 25% to the 93 octane . Have a knock sensor with a light to show when it is seeing a knock/detonation so 100 octane can be added. Sorry to ramble , have an awesome day🎉

open your mouth when speaking, stop mumbling, totally too hard to listen to, unwatchable and unlistenable awefull dreadful

WOW, ow Boy this one is a Great Classic as I can recall P 51 Mustang?? I love this engine, it's the Best of the Best Right here !! Runs like a Brand New one 2 !! Good Luck Sir and Thanks 4 the video clip !! May GOD Bless you !! ❤❤😅😅

I always wondered why the Merlin (and other aviation V-12s) used complicated split connecting rods; rather than staggering the cylinder banks like modern automotive V8s, and using identical rods. length should not be an issue as it would add less than an inch to total engine block length.

UA-cam at its best. Really inspiring to do and make good work. Was the three-gear wheel made on a shaper?

That Merlin sounded lovely.

Really enjoyed the inset video of the controls. Bravo to Reg for the steadicam work - that can't have been easy at all!

Well done! That R3350 purrs like a kitten now!

What a treat to see how the magic is made in this legendary engine. As someone who is fascinated by all things mechanical, you are living my dream! Thanks for posting.

So it really does spit fire.

Guy has his own Merlin on a trailer, any idea why he didn't use his own?

It is undoubtedly the most iconic piston engine, particularly of its time, but as an indentured British engineer, I would like to add in no2 position,…..the Jaguar XK engine! The first saved all our freedoms and the second enriched those freedoms! They both sound superb and really both look the part from an engineering stance too! Wonderful concepts and brilliantly executed design and manufacturing to boot! Thanks to all those excellent people involved in those pre computer times! Cheers

Real Spitfires are probabpy rare and expensive, but wouldn't it be awesome if replicas were available, and reasonably approachable, so this engine can be mounted on it, if only for the purpose of being a stand...

This is the HARDEST run of the Merlin I've ever seen! Amazing power and sound!

An absolutely superb weekend; glorious weather for a change, Thank you Gentlemen for your professional display 👍🏻😄🇬🇧

What are the six circles with four holes each for in the impeller casing?

Could the damaged diffuser vanes be removed and replacement ones be pinned and epoxied in place?

Прекрасно! Поршневая авиация завораживает!

When you start to think about the engineering involved with these engines, the context in which they were designed and built, and the people who made them, I feel hugely grateful to you and your peers for keeping these engines running for us all to witness and enjoy. Thank you!

The Historic Aero Engine Orchestra of Great Britain !

No fancy AI editing, just great content :)

Every material on the topic of Merlin guts is great! Show us more! Cat't imagine why your voice sound so sad...

Great series

Noob question: Why does the wheel case need to be fastened with so many bolts?

These comments are so British

I assume the trailer is carefully weighted, or secured. At 500 hp, it might be producing about 1000 lbs of thrust, but I suppose that's not sufficient to start raising the nose of the trailer.

Awesome job. Great series.

A very instructive video. I wonder if the damaged stator (7:31) vanes can be welded "back". This process has to be done to a 200 degree C. heated stator housing using the right aluminum alloy. Afterwards, time consuming grinding and polishing brings the part back very close to the original state. One Merlin saved. Once I let a damaged engine backplate (magneto holder) of my aircraft be restored that way. That was NOT expensive. The welder must be an expert though. It could be usefull to mount the intake elbow to the diffusor without innards. If possible measure the alignment of both bearing chambers in assembly, as well as the roundness of them. Zeiss measuring machine is needed/hired. Identifying possible mismatch is important on turbo machinery Rolls Royce is a good brand, but everything was made under war-strain on delivery. Good luck.

...now I understand why Rolls Royce is Rolls Royce....

Impeller is out of balance? Would explain the wear and the markings on the nut.

Got a little warm towards the end of the video,feathered prop causing not enough air flow through the radiator?

i for one wanted you to put some mad max goggles on and ride that trailer around the field using the rear dolly to steer like a boss , and get a million subs prob !

One of the best scenes on YT. Running the Merlin in the back garden. Beautiful.

An orchestra on wheels; a salty conductor.

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Incredible. Love the mindful approach corresponding with the object rather than just going through a process. Impressive and reassuring.

Have you considered TIG welding material back and machine the diffuser vanes back to shape? I get that it would be a lot of work and maybe prohibitively expensive but I'm just curious. Good content as always!