I watched a lot of Bob Ross when I was a child. You are like the Bob Ross of bike mechanics. Love your attitude and patience. Thank you for the videos and knowledge.
Hello Mike, Off & Now On again HAYDEN M6 Automatic Chain Tensioner (other than the "SHOE" ... parts are difficult to purchase / replace ) Thanks for Taking US Along COOP ........................................................
Mike, just love your channel. I've been a Ford tech for many years, then trade instructor. I learned something new every time I see your work. Slow and sure. I love it!!!!
Hi Mike I have been watching all your videos glad your coughing fit has finished all the information is just so great Thanks for taking the time for showing what you do so well JA Uk
I am so digging this project, I totally forgot about the project bike. That's how good this channel is. Everything is exactly what I need in my day. ;)
Glad you enjoy it! I really want to get back on the project bike. Catching up now. We kind of mix things up a little as things come up. It's like life in general.
Had to laugh....I was looking at your tub of Anti Seize and it looks like you have a lifetime supply. I have the same one I bought back in 78' and it still has about two spoon full left in it. A little goes a long way, that stuff lasts forever!...Fun video Mike.....Thanks
Great videos Mike! I bought my first Harley back in April a 97 Fatboy. I've been watching this series a lot, trying to learn as much as I can. Thank you for making them!
You sound much better Mike! My last name is Rivera! No relation tho. I know from my first boss (German trained by VW back in the 30's and 40's would only use an impact in that type of situation if he was unable to securely lock the device he was torquing down. We always used the impact gun on the large nut that held on the rear wheel to the axle on the VW beetles and square backs.
I remember that nut well. It took a 36mm socket. I believe (just my personal belief), that the motor sprocket nut and the clutch hub nut are safest using an impact gun. My reasoning is that it becomes a tight radius with no sideloading like you would get with a large lever.
Hey Mike im looking for a 103 twin cam used running for my uncle's ultra classic so I can break the one in her now down, it spun a cam bearing already smoked 2 oil pumps the needle bearing remains keep destroying em thaught we had it flushed out but im going to have to pull it and do it right, any leads by chance ?
hey Mike, I went with a 25 tooth compensator sprocket, stock chain to short, next size h.d. sells is 82, to big, couldn't find any chains in between, went with a 27 tooth sprocket, same thing, finally called baker engineering, they have 78, 80 link chains, ended up with 27 tooth sprocket with 78 link chain and fat shoe from baker adjuster, I love it, also Baker has a chart that tells you what ratios ,thanks for all you do for us.
Well, I kinda helped with those instructions. You didn't tell me anything about the bike. But 5/8" is generally great. But a wilder, lumpy, bumpy motor, you can decrease to 9/16" or even less with a beast of a motor, 1/2".
Mike, my manual says not to use an impact wrench on the compensator sprocket nut. I believe they're concerned about the glued in magnets on the stator rotor breaking loose. .... do you have any thoughts on this?
Shouldn’t ya not also change sprockets with the chain like a final chain drive? And also for the tensioner rotate to check the tightest spot considering crank & clutch drive shaft run out ?
Well, I looked in my catalogs. It wasn't there. I got irritated. Finally, this found me people who carry those springs: m-6 primary chain tensioner parts list Honestly, it was right there. Took me a while.
Thanks for your videos. I wish I knew how to Reach out to you I have a '97 Fatboy that has had a problem for 3 years that no Harley dealership has been able to help me fix. I would love to run it by you.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you! I bought the 97 Fatboy used with no knowledge of its past. The issue I am seeing is if my NC weather is 89° or below I can ride the bike all day with no problems. The minute the weather is hotter than that I can ride for about 10 to 20 minutes before the bike will just cut out. Sometimes the engine just shuts down but sometimes it will backfire a few times before it shuts down. As soon as I get the bike to the side of the road it will start right back up. It will shut right back down as I start driving away. In the past three years it's been to the Harley shop average probably a year and a half of that. They did initially find where the turn signal wires were exposed and shorting the bike out. But once that was fixed I still had the issue. I've had the carb cleaned up, ignition coil, ignition module, spark plugs and wires, battery replaced. I recently replaced the breaker that sits under the seat by the rear wheel. This was suggested to me by an ex Harley tech. It is hard for them to duplicate it because they can't waste man hours and somebody riding it until it dies. What I have done the past couple times is driven it until it died on me and called the Harley dealerships to come pick me up. They believe it is something electrical. At first I thought it was just overheating but as the years passed I am leaning towards electrical too since the bike starts right back up. I love the bike but i am at my wits end. Any thoughts or help is appreciated.
Well, each of us that try to diagnose an "intermittent problem" can only go on our own experience. So, I'll give to you my thoughts and hope they help. First thought; is the bike lowered? If so, remove the rear wheel and inspect the wires for shorts, especially if you have an oversize rear tire. The ignition module would certainly be suspect, but, you say it's been replaced. Next comes the ignition pickup (located in the cam cover). Remove the little access cover. With the engine running, heat it with a heat gun or even a good hot hair dryer. If the engine dies, there's your problem. I normally replace the stock ignition system with a good aftermarket unit, which the dealership certainly will not. It's basically a matter of hit and miss until you find it. We all hate "intermittent problems."
@@pacificmike9501 i appreciate your thoughts. The ignition and coil pack was replaced by the dealership with dynatek 2000i components when i tried the heatgun test. The bike is not lowered. I had all the tins painted last winter and inspected the wiring while they were exposed and found no issues. The bike is currently back at the dealership since my last shutdown. You are right, it is very frustrating to have an intermittent problem that is 100% repeatable based on the outside temperature. The search will continue.
Does yours still use the original pickup in the cone? In other words, does yours just use the 2000 module with the stock pickup? A 97 usually gets the Dyna module designed for your year model and still uses the original pickup. The pickups rarely go bad and are usually overlooked.
Mike i was think the other day remember all the roller chain belts to hold up your pants people were buying in the 70s .how many do you think were used on a motercycle to limp it on home ? I mean i took a coat hanger wire to fix a drive chain and played it real soft on the clutch and throttle and broke that link 5 times before i got it home and im sure you've done a few roadside jerry rigs yourself along the way .
It wasn't that bad. It was stretched some. Jim wanted a fresh one. So I replaced it for him. Chains that run in oil, as opposed to being oiled, tend to last a long time.
@@pacificmike9501 it’s a Electra glide 1989, she is naked, I can send you a picture of her. Absolutely, this dry one with a belt is the one that I want to put on her
I still consider your bike "late model." I think it's cause I'm old. But, that 89 came with a nice isolated system that had a wet clutch and a chain that ran through oil. They really work well, are quiet and all is good, if you like it. If your preference is a belt primary, far be it from me to criticize. Be sure to install a new motor seal and spacer. The seal should be installed with the "open side" out. You'll, of course, need to run a dry clutch.
Mike! I got a 68 shovel with stock front end. Whats the best way (if any) on centering up the front wheel . I got and tried different wheel spacer and this things is kicking my ass. I aint never had any problem with the front end in all the years Ive had this bike. Any advice would be appreciated.
If it's stock, all the parts are available. Try V-Twin (Tedd Cycle). They have all of the blowup pictures with part numbers in their catalog. I'm sure it's all online.
Hey hope yall all doing great. Funny thing may buy 1998 Fatboy. Is it chain drive in the primary? Thinking also about going to a chain drive on the back wheel. 98 has about 7000 miles. My concern is that belt. To me a belt on primary and chain on back wheel. Then you're not at the mercy of disassemblingy to fix the belt. What your opinion. Whenever you get a chance let me know be cool.
All the late Harleys have primary chains and belt final drive. I mean like, since the mid eighties for big twins and 91 (if I remember correctly) for Sportsters. They only time they get a chain final drive is if someone decides to modify the bike by installing one. The same thing holds true for primary drives. They come with a chain in there. Installing a belt on the primary is a modification. Harley experimented by installing some belt final drives on some of the last of the Shovels (FXD's and FLH's, and the Sturgis models). All the 98 models (Sportster and Big Twin) came with chain primary drive and belt final drive. Oh yah; The "Sturgis" (I believe 81 and 82) had both primary and final drive belts.
i have a 1997 fat boy it was running then stop now the starter well not turn over the motor is not locked up what could it be i replace the starter relay nothing , it was idling then it just shut off now it won't turn over
Check your ground cable. Your seat may have hit it. This is the first place to look. Check your battery cables. Are your lights working? Let me know. But, by now, you've probably got it.
@@pacificmike9501 i check all the fuses there all good still won't crank over the lights come on but the back brake light is out won't come on when i push the starter button there is power going to the starter relay but won't crank over i'm about to sell it getting tired of it lol
@@DANIEL-gg1ir I would test the wire going to the starter for voltage drop. For example, you could have a starter cable with broken wires inside. It will measure 12 v from battery but will not be able to carry the current required to engage starter. Test the wire under load to see how much voltage is lost under load.
The best Channel about Harleys for me. Thank you Mike
Thank You
I watched a lot of Bob Ross when I was a child. You are like the Bob Ross of bike mechanics. Love your attitude and patience. Thank you for the videos and knowledge.
Thank You
I thought the same thing LOL
Hello Mike,
Off & Now On again
HAYDEN M6 Automatic Chain Tensioner
(other than the "SHOE" ... parts are difficult to purchase / replace )
Thanks for Taking US Along
COOP
........................................................
Any time!
A couple of great videos. Good job Mike. I like the Pan in the background. Looks good.
Thank You. Look at our videos on our UA-cam Homepage. There's a lot on that Panhead. Her name is "Babydoll."
I love these type of learn as you go videos. Thanks Pacific Mike.
Thank You.
When Pacific Mike says "I like it," you can take it to the bank.
Thank You
Mike, just love your channel. I've been a Ford tech for many years, then trade instructor. I learned something new every time I see your work. Slow and sure. I love it!!!!
Thank You.
You make it look so easy. Just shows to go-ya, things look easy when you know what you're doing.
I'll try to work on that.
Hi Mike I have been watching all your videos glad your coughing fit has finished all the information is just so great
Thanks for taking the time for showing what you do so well JA Uk
Awesome! Thank you!
Man, am I glad you're all right !
Thank You. I'm fine.
Thats EXACTLY how I installed my clutch hub nut and compensator nut. Well done!
Thank You.
I am so digging this project, I totally forgot about the project bike. That's how good this channel is. Everything is exactly what I need in my day. ;)
Glad you enjoy it! I really want to get back on the project bike. Catching up now. We kind of mix things up a little as things come up. It's like life in general.
Progressing very nicely Gentleman! 👍👍 🇨🇦
Thanks 👍
Had to laugh....I was looking at your tub of Anti Seize and it looks like you have a lifetime supply. I have the same one I bought back in 78' and it still has about two spoon full left in it. A little goes a long way, that stuff lasts forever!...Fun video Mike.....Thanks
Yes, it does. I inherited that tub of antisieze. I'll probably leave it to someone.
Glad your ok I was concerned
Don't be, I'm fine, but Thank You. I hope you are well.
Really like these videos. Negotiating to buy a 83 Low Rider. Picking up 7/10/21. Fingers crossed.
Sounds cool.
Thank you for sharing. Very enjoyable.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you
You're welcome
"Sorry, your shim ain't that wonderful." I love it!
Shim shimminy, shimm shimminy, shimshim sheree
Can't wait to see Jim comment after a ride on his souped up motorcycle!
He's gonna love it.
Great videos Mike! I bought my first Harley back in April a 97 Fatboy. I've been watching this series a lot, trying to learn as much as I can. Thank you for making them!
Thank You. More to come.
I know what you mean about the loc-tite , I had to heat mine with a torch and a 3/4 inch impact to get it off . Thank you for your great videos .
Even the factory (factory service manual) will tell you "one or two" drops.
I like this video. Good instructions!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
You sound much better Mike! My last name is Rivera! No relation tho. I know from my first boss (German trained by VW back in the 30's and 40's would only use an impact in that type of situation if he was unable to securely lock the device he was torquing down. We always used the impact gun on the large nut that held on the rear wheel to the axle on the VW beetles and square backs.
I remember that nut well. It took a 36mm socket. I believe (just my personal belief), that the motor sprocket nut and the clutch hub nut are safest using an impact gun. My reasoning is that it becomes a tight radius with no sideloading like you would get with a large lever.
Great videos Mike I enjoy them all from British Columbia Canada
Thank You
Nice job Professor. Well done
Glad you liked it!
That was how it was with your first girlfriend you play around and play around until you get it LOL great video Mike !
No comment to that one. Thank you.
Great job Mike and how the belt for the rear tire 👏
It's fine. Thank You
What's up Mike hope you had a good independence day
I did, thank you. And, I hope yours was great.
Hey Mike im looking for a 103 twin cam used running for my uncle's ultra classic so I can break the one in her now down, it spun a cam bearing already smoked 2 oil pumps the needle bearing remains keep destroying em thaught we had it flushed out but im going to have to pull it and do it right, any leads by chance ?
Great videos, very informative.
Thanks for watching!
13:18 Nice to see Thing Addams still getting work out there . . . Greetings from the Greenwood - live long & Fester : )
That's the thing about Thing. Always nice to have an extra hand.
You both crack me up.
hey Mike, I went with a 25 tooth compensator sprocket, stock chain to short, next size h.d. sells is 82, to big, couldn't find any chains in between, went with a 27 tooth sprocket, same thing, finally called baker engineering, they have 78, 80 link chains, ended up with 27 tooth sprocket with 78 link chain and fat shoe from baker adjuster, I love it, also Baker has a chart that tells you what ratios ,thanks for all you do for us.
Cool. Yes they are wonderful folks. Thank you for writing back. That goes under the heading of, "Very useful advice."
Hayden recommends 5/8 inch between the top of the shims and bottom of the shoe. I don't know how precise that needs to be. Great videos as always
Well, I kinda helped with those instructions. You didn't tell me anything about the bike. But 5/8" is generally great. But a wilder, lumpy, bumpy motor, you can decrease to 9/16" or even less with a beast of a motor, 1/2".
As long as the Factory parts slappers don't use all the shims on the Hayden M6, the shoe will last a lifetime.
I've had very good results with them and I've done a lot of experimenting with them for the company. Thank You.
Mike, my manual says not to use an impact wrench on the compensator sprocket nut. I believe they're concerned about the glued in magnets on the stator rotor breaking loose. .... do you have any thoughts on this?
Yes, but they're just my thoughts.
Shouldn’t ya not also change sprockets with the chain like a final chain drive? And also for the tensioner rotate to check the tightest spot considering crank & clutch drive shaft run out ?
In a perfect world, everything is new. But stuff that's been run properly, it's just not bad.
I wish I could get ahold of hyden so i could get replacement springs for my m6 ,great video mike
Well, I looked in my catalogs. It wasn't there. I got irritated. Finally, this found me people who carry those springs: m-6 primary chain tensioner parts list Honestly, it was right there. Took me a while.
@@pacificmike9501 how can I get some springs Mike thanks
Google: m-6 primary chain tensioner parts list
Thanks for your videos. I wish I knew how to Reach out to you I have a '97 Fatboy that has had a problem for 3 years that no Harley dealership has been able to help me fix. I would love to run it by you.
Just put it in the comment section. I'll try.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you! I bought the 97 Fatboy used with no knowledge of its past. The issue I am seeing is if my NC weather is 89° or below I can ride the bike all day with no problems. The minute the weather is hotter than that I can ride for about 10 to 20 minutes before the bike will just cut out. Sometimes the engine just shuts down but sometimes it will backfire a few times before it shuts down. As soon as I get the bike to the side of the road it will start right back up. It will shut right back down as I start driving away. In the past three years it's been to the Harley shop average probably a year and a half of that. They did initially find where the turn signal wires were exposed and shorting the bike out. But once that was fixed I still had the issue. I've had the carb cleaned up, ignition coil, ignition module, spark plugs and wires, battery replaced. I recently replaced the breaker that sits under the seat by the rear wheel. This was suggested to me by an ex Harley tech. It is hard for them to duplicate it because they can't waste man hours and somebody riding it until it dies. What I have done the past couple times is driven it until it died on me and called the Harley dealerships to come pick me up. They believe it is something electrical. At first I thought it was just overheating but as the years passed I am leaning towards electrical too since the bike starts right back up. I love the bike but i am at my wits end. Any thoughts or help is appreciated.
Well, each of us that try to diagnose an "intermittent problem" can only go on our own experience. So, I'll give to you my thoughts and hope they help. First thought; is the bike lowered? If so, remove the rear wheel and inspect the wires for shorts, especially if you have an oversize rear tire. The ignition module would certainly be suspect, but, you say it's been replaced. Next comes the ignition pickup (located in the cam cover). Remove the little access cover. With the engine running, heat it with a heat gun or even a good hot hair dryer. If the engine dies, there's your problem. I normally replace the stock ignition system with a good aftermarket unit, which the dealership certainly will not. It's basically a matter of hit and miss until you find it. We all hate "intermittent problems."
@@pacificmike9501 i appreciate your thoughts. The ignition and coil pack was replaced by the dealership with dynatek 2000i components when i tried the heatgun test. The bike is not lowered. I had all the tins painted last winter and inspected the wiring while they were exposed and found no issues. The bike is currently back at the dealership since my last shutdown. You are right, it is very frustrating to have an intermittent problem that is 100% repeatable based on the outside temperature. The search will continue.
Does yours still use the original pickup in the cone? In other words, does yours just use the 2000 module with the stock pickup? A 97 usually gets the Dyna module designed for your year model and still uses the original pickup. The pickups rarely go bad and are usually overlooked.
Just wandering how do you determine when the chain is in need of replacing ?
It either has tight and loose spots or it has become quite long.
Using a impact wrench on the compensator nut is not a no-no as some have said. If you do it then I will. Love your videos!
Thank You.
Mike i was think the other day remember all the roller chain belts to hold up your pants people were buying in the 70s .how many do you think were used on a motercycle to limp it on home ?
I mean i took a coat hanger wire to fix a drive chain and played it real soft on the clutch and throttle and broke that link 5 times before i got it home and im sure you've done a few roadside jerry rigs yourself along the way .
Yep. That creativity defines the kind of rider you are. I can remember saying to my bike, "You got me here. Now you're going to get me home."
Do you go on mileage or just slack in the primary chain when you determine the need to replace it, Mike?
It wasn't that bad. It was stretched some. Jim wanted a fresh one. So I replaced it for him. Chains that run in oil, as opposed to being oiled, tend to last a long time.
Mike, What compensator are you using, and will it work on my 1985 EVO. Tks. D W
It is a "Genuine Fischer" vibration damper. I do not know if they are still available. It is a company in Santa Fe Springs CA.
😎🇺🇸🍻.....
Thank You
Hi Mike, I want to put a dry primary on my bike. Is it a good setup?
Which bike? If it's a belt, it's gotta be dry. If it's a chain, what year is it?
@@pacificmike9501 it’s a Electra glide 1989, she is naked, I can send you a picture of her. Absolutely, this dry one with a belt is the one that I want to put on her
I still consider your bike "late model." I think it's cause I'm old. But, that 89 came with a nice isolated system that had a wet clutch and a chain that ran through oil. They really work well, are quiet and all is good, if you like it. If your preference is a belt primary, far be it from me to criticize. Be sure to install a new motor seal and spacer. The seal should be installed with the "open side" out. You'll, of course, need to run a dry clutch.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks for your advice and position.
Have fun.
Always great info, how much farther is the stator after taking off the chain/baskets/ etc? Mine went out, thank in advance
What is the motorcycle. Year? Evo? Shovelhead, Twin cam? They differ.
@@pacificmike9501 2007 Heritage Softail twin cam, 95 ci,
Easy. Inner primary housing needn't be removed, not even the starter.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks, I appreciate it!
Mike ,I ordered a new stator, but it didn't come with the 4 mounting bolts. I read that they can not be re-used. Is that your experience??
Mike! I got a 68 shovel with stock front end. Whats the best way (if any) on centering up the front wheel . I got and tried different wheel spacer and this things is kicking my ass. I aint never had any problem with the front end in all the years Ive had this bike. Any advice would be appreciated.
If it's stock, all the parts are available. Try V-Twin (Tedd Cycle). They have all of the blowup pictures with part numbers in their catalog. I'm sure it's all online.
Hey hope yall all doing great. Funny thing may buy 1998 Fatboy. Is it chain drive in the primary? Thinking also about going to a chain drive on the back wheel. 98 has about 7000 miles. My concern is that belt. To me a belt on primary and chain on back wheel. Then you're not at the mercy of disassemblingy to fix the belt. What your opinion. Whenever you get a chance let me know be cool.
All the late Harleys have primary chains and belt final drive. I mean like, since the mid eighties for big twins and 91 (if I remember correctly) for Sportsters. They only time they get a chain final drive is if someone decides to modify the bike by installing one. The same thing holds true for primary drives. They come with a chain in there. Installing a belt on the primary is a modification. Harley experimented by installing some belt final drives on some of the last of the Shovels (FXD's and FLH's, and the Sturgis models). All the 98 models (Sportster and Big Twin) came with chain primary drive and belt final drive. Oh yah; The "Sturgis" (I believe 81 and 82) had both primary and final drive belts.
@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike just wake up to good news. Have a great day.
Hi Mike, I have a 97 Dyna FXDL. What type of compensator is being used in this vid?
Genuine Fischer Vibration Damper, no longer available.
Mike, what's the correct way to remove drive pulley, and I already subscribe
I use an air impact.
i have a 1997 fat boy it was running then stop now the starter well not turn over the motor is not locked up what could it be i replace the starter relay nothing , it was idling then it just shut off now it won't turn over
Check your ground cable. Your seat may have hit it. This is the first place to look. Check your battery cables. Are your lights working? Let me know. But, by now, you've probably got it.
@@pacificmike9501 okay thank you mike ill check the ground cable and yes the lights come on
Check your fuses and your brake light.
@@pacificmike9501 i check all the fuses there all good still won't crank over the lights come on but the back brake light is out won't come on when i push the starter button there is power going to the starter relay but won't crank over i'm about to sell it getting tired of it lol
@@DANIEL-gg1ir I would test the wire going to the starter for voltage drop.
For example, you could have a starter cable with broken wires inside. It will measure 12 v from battery but will not be able to carry the current required to engage starter. Test the wire under load to see how much voltage is lost under load.
How to tell when you need a new primary chain? I have 2010 FLHTK with 29000 miles.
Unless you've abused it, it should be fine.
what was the new compared to the old look like side by side?
Side by Side what?
Have I been wasting my time all these years torquing the comp and tranny nut to factory specs?
I like an impact just for doing those.
👍🖖
Thank You
Diaphragm Springs
😂
Way cool.
The old bastrad wrench 11/16
Not 5/8 not 3/4 ...😊
That's a normal size.
Mon 1340 evo aurais adoré être dans vos mains 🙂
Thank You. That's a nice thought. But, you can love on it.
No don't use Impact gun!
You do it your way. Use a big lever and put a major sideload on the shaft. I'll use an impact and a tight radius. It's okay with me.
Baker drive train, sorry not baker engineering
No harm, no foul. I don't think the Bakers are offended.
What makes it automatic? The plastic gets thinner? Or is there a zipper or something
It is spring loaded.