Imho a hammer drill is a specialised tool that's completely overused. They're perfect for making clean holes in tiles but shouldn't be bought if we're not doing that. The wild grinding noise of hammer mode is the sound of a gearset chewing itself to oblivion and should be reserved for when absolutely necessary, not because we don't have the right size SDS bit or because the tool can handle it, this time. A complex mechanism that by design has a limited lifespan, whether it's Ferrex or Makita. Otherwise, both these tools need to be warrantied asap! Thanks for the great review as always, keep em coming 😊
You are correct, however I must say that mostly applies for people purchasing Makita, Milwaukee etc expensive hammer drills. They use them as intended in those cases. For these supermarket hammer drills I see people mostly purchasing them as an all in one drill. This is their first and only drill and they want to make all types of holes with it. That is why I tested them as such. And as seen in the video if the concrete piece is just a bit tougher they fail. I support the idea of having an SDS and regular drill fully. Makes the normal drill less complicated and lighter and you have an SDS that can do much much more in terms of concrete. Thank you for your on point comment as always! I do appreciate having you on the channel!
Thats why i don't own such a Drill if i want to work on Wood = Drill If i want to put in Screws = small ones Drill, bit ones Impact Driver And if i want to work on Stone = a REAL Hammer Drill, either small or big, got both from Lidl.
Hammer function on these is a bit of a gimmick to be fair. You can either have a tool good for a certain task or a tool not that good at some tasks. I also prefer having separate drills make life easier in most regards apart from storage.
I have a Bosch ps 18 li-2 from the green line with hammer function that I bought in 2015-2016. Of course it wasn't being used professionally, but it's still going after all these years, moving out 2 times, building own furniture from scratch, as well as assembling a magnitude of prefabricated furniture, drilling countless holes in the walls for all the imaginable fixtures and now assembling bamboo terrace (which is a real pain in the ass I mus say). The only problem is that the chuck sounds strangely and sometimes doesn't hold the bit as firmly as a few years ago. So I suppose it's probably tools like that wouldn't hold up in professional setting, but it's definitely a very good option for regular people
The triggers on Parkside drills tend to have some kind of power saving feature which prevents it from registering the first press after not using the drill for a certain time. Is this what you are experiencing?
50-50. Once it was after not using it for about 5 seconds and the other time was just after being used. It could have been, because it needed some running in, but this is the frist time anything like that occurs on one of these tools. So strange.
Sorry to hear that… I don’t like their sales model in some countries where you have to wait for an entire year to get what you want. On the other hand in some places they have an online store and I like that very much. In most cases I order at 2 am 😅
I have the Aldi Ferrex model & it's very good (Mine was on offer for just a tenner) You need to take a photo of the Till Receipt ASAP, as the printer Ink they (Aldi & Lidl) use, soon fades into a Useless, Blank piece of paper for Guarantee purposes. 📷📸
For sure I will make a copy of the receipt. I usually do so, because I lose the physical copy. I got the Ferrex on sale for about £15 and honestly even with this issue it is still worth that! Just not worth the regular price of about 3 times that.
Thank you! The chuck in this case is only making inserting bits a bit more difficult, otherwise it does not impact performance at all. However I will open it up soon in order to fix it or just get another one. I have a couple of Röhm chucks from Parkside that I have to find a use for so maybe this will be the case here.
Isnt there a sleep mode to avoid accidental drainage ? my 60nm performance drill also has that moment where it doesnt start right away when i put in the battery or i havent used it in a spell. Never found it an nuisance, so I dont mind it. I do have a buzzing sound comming from the bottom of the drill though, thats weird, I'll probably try to waranty mine because of that
@@mandolinka29 This did not occur after the drill not being used for some time. It occurred after I had used it only in a matter of seconds so I don't think it is a sleep mode or anything like that. I think it was most likely a fault with the trigger or some leftover residue on the contacts inside it. But now it seems fine. This was just after I had taken it out of the box.
40v should be heavier and it makes no sense for drills as they don't really require the power. I recently bought the Makita copy (gisam they claim it's 650nm which it definitely isn't) and tested it against real Makita of a similar size and to my surprise it did similar! The trigger is obviously less sensitive but for carbide grinding bits it really didn't matter! My coworker was using Makita and i really wanted to keep up so i pushed it extremely hard and it did not die!
In this case the 40V was the lighter one. The Parkside with the battery was 2.5kg which to me felt on the heavier side. I like smaller drills. My own personal favourite is the 60Nm non-hammer Parkside Performance drill. And for concrete an SDS rotary hammer drill. That I feel is the best combination. I was also thinking of getting my hands on that type of Makita clone and including it in this video, but I spent too much already buy maybe I should have...
@@BrokeLifeEU Completely understand the 60nm as we use Makita of similar size for most jobs at work. I'd go with that Makita clone only if you plan to do heavy work like using carbide grinding bits or drilling through thick stuff where you need the torque.The real Makita isn't worth it for me
@wanderer7779 I am surprised the one fom Gisam has decent power to be fair. I mean 650Nm is impossible but sounds like it is above 65Nm the way you are describing it. Which is solid!
Still not sure about the Parkside. That trigger issue occured twice. I have not been able to make it to that since. The self locking chuck on the Ferrex is broken for sure.
That is what I thought, however it does it in a very weird way. I kept it very steady and it hesitated to get going. Then I pressed it again and had no issues. It is not like I was moving the drill about in any direction for it to think kickback. Happened only twice and I have not managed to replicate it since the video.
@@BrokeLifeEU if the drill is new then there is probably insufficient tension on the trigger wipers from the factory which causes it to not close the circuit properly. Best to warranty it. If it's old and dirty, contact cleaner and bending out the wipers can do the trick
Protip : In hard materials you shouldn't use speed 2. They actually cut better as you can apply more force into the material and you'll get a much faster cleaner whole. A lot of people think HSS they drill high speed through steel, it just means they bit itself is safe to spin at high speed 😂
As you said I did use speed 2 in all cases while drilling. Also for the steel part I find even a bit of oil makes a lot of difference. However I was surprised by the drill bits. I don‘t know if you made it that far in the video but one was a regular 8mm drill bit by Total and the other was from their Industrial range. I know which ones I will be buying again and which not 😅
@@BrokeLifeEU Stupid phone it was supposed to say shouldn't. Basically you want high torque,high pressure,low speed. It will slice through the metal that way, if you have it fast it acts like an abrasive and goes blunt and then won't cut at all.
Very good video my friend. But the drills are not good I think. The best drill I think is Parkside Hammer drill C3 60Nm that is the new version. You tested it before I know.
Thank you so much! I think you have a point the Parkside PSBSAP C3 is a very good drill. The size and weight of a regulat drill but also has a hammer mode if you need it.
These cheap drills aren't meant to be "Flogged to Death" & both have their place for light DIY (Have you tried turning the Broken ?, Ferrex chuck the opposite way - there's an Additional locking system on most drills , they don't tell you about !! See other YT' s on this) Might even be just the chuck, fixing bolt needs re tightening ? There are YT's on that too.
It looks like it is not the chuck itself, rather the gear mechanism inside the drill that stops outside input turning the motor. When I get some more free time I will disassemble it and I am pretty sure it is a gear out of position that just needs to pop back in where it belongs and all will be fine with it again. Also I would like to say think you for watching the video and for commenting! I appreciate your time and input!
The self locking chuck breaking was disappointing. I mean we can't complain too much considering the price and 3 years of warranty but still. Wasn't the drill from Temu, better than this? 🤔😂 p.s. The drill testing rig is nice; You better patent that asap. 😅
😅 some improvements need to be made to the drill test rig and then - patent pending. As for the Temu drill, it is not close to these, the quality of the materials is very low on that one and it needs a lot of time to get any drilling done. That said it was about a quarter of the price of these, however it has no hammer function so it had no place in this video. Maybe I should have bought some other Aliexpress hammer drill, but I have overspent this month anyway so I thought it was not the best idea.
I have to go with Parkside on this one, it feels like it is better built and more capable. Although I held on to my Ferrex thinking it was better than the Parkside and if you saw in the video the Ferrex went wrong the Parkside is still unknown if it has an issue or not.
@BrokeLifeEU why not just replace the drill chuck and get the switch issue sorted then repeat the test but on the metal test it was un fait as the steel was thicker than the aluminium, try them them on drilling solid metals then but all metals at same spec then that would be a faier test overall, as the drills say they can do wood metal and masonry so I think testing along the lines with the drills max abilities, I hope this helps you
@@paulcarter5337 The chuck as it is just makes it more difficult to change bits, but it does not impact performance. As for the metals I saw no reason to go for same thicknes of aluminium and steel as I am comparing how they drill in one metal type at a time. So steel against steel and aluminium against aluminium. I see what you mean about testing along the lines of the max capabilities of the drills! I will try to do better next time for sure!
Cheap drills are the reason i went and spent the money on a Bosch GSB 18V-150 C 150nm. When you need to get the job done, nothing from a supermarket is going to do it.
I am also considering switching to Bosch after some things I read about them. I was thinking of going with Milwaukee if I could afford that but I am seeing some decent Bosch discounts and in a couple of months I will only be needing a drill and impact wrench so I could end up selling all my Parkside stuff and going for a Bosch GSR and GDX.
@@BrokeLifeEUI have DeWalt impact driver and impact wrench, I'm happy with price to performance, also if I remember correctly, Bosch can be even more expensive than DeWalt. Consider DeWalt as well. Maybe even get the one with cheaper batteries. I've been using DeWalts 5 ah battery and it runs very long when I used it on wood flooring on the house, I was impressed with the run time. Most probably you can use battery adapters and interchange batteries, so that you can buy the better tool from each company without buying different batteries.
Conversely Expensive drills ( well my expensive drill ) Bosch PSB 650 watt Green body / Red graphics, Made in Hungary had a couple of years but only used infrequently , and really babied it, kind of making sure to put it down on floor gently on old T shirts and stuff. --- Promised a disabled buddy put curtains up in his new (big) house and wehhay the Damn brand new looking thing just totally failed to start, went to nearest DIY outlet and got MacAlister 600 watt kit £23, and job done. The slow start on the Mac , is excellent! the same feature on the Bosch was rubbish . The Mac has , two year warranty .
@@typhoontim125 I bought a Parkside SDS a couple of years ago so i could chisel out some bricks in a wall. I had to finish the wall with something else because the Parkside SDS died and bits fell out of it within a few hours. No they do not get the job done.
after a closer look to your video, i think that the parkaside 80nm is kind of mediocre. Real torgue must be at 65-70nm rougly not 80nm. Iwould have expected a greater distance in performance between these two but every test i've seen with the 80nm, shows that it is weak, very slow and less less torgue than advertised. the best overall that parkside has to offer is the 64nm psbsap 20 li c3
The one that has the five year warranty do you think in 4 1/2 years? If that product goes wrong they’re gonna have the parts or service infrastructure to fix it. These products are only done as short production runs the salon one month and then you never see him again, next time when they come in the shops, the design and model adult the same goes for the one that has the three year warranty you better off just buying a brand-name like Makita Dewalt. I would say Milwaukee but they’re too expensive and here in the UK where I live you only get a 12 month warranty. With the Milwaukee You can extend it if you’re registered the product but on top of that a lot of their stuff you can’t get spares for spares costs nearly the same as a new product. These cheap drills not worth touching with a barge pole in this video unless you’re going to use them once or twice a year for a bit a light DIY
The Parkside warranty works as intended only in specific countries, where there is an online Lidl store and they have everything available. Otherwise as you say you end up with a refund if the tool goes wrong and in most cases when the tool is needed a refund is the second best option. Parkside is fine for occasional DIY use. For anything more than that I perhaps would go with the cheapest tool brand with all year round availability of their tools which is Einhell. unfortunately they don't have all the tools that Parkside have. So tough choice indeed. I would love for Einhell to come up with a cordless ratchet! Also it must be mentioned that the words spare parts and after warranty service are non-existent in the Parkside dictionary!
you let the drills wobble way too much, try and keep them vertical. if this was say a brick and you were going to use plugs afterwards, it'd not be a snug fit.
I think I should get a drill press at this point. I am making videos with drills and something like that will make things more consistent. I just need to save up for a proper one.
Only seen the first Seconds, and i'd guess Aldi already has the upper Hand, cause 4 Ah new Battery cells, against 5 Ah old Battery cell technology = The Old ones will have a way higher Output, which is already a disadvantage for the Lidl one. Old 4Ah Lidl battery already has 60 A output, while the new "Smart" one Tops at 50 A
@@BrokeLifeEU I did, and i'd say with a better Battery (the 4Ah Smart is only better then 2Ah normal, worse then the other 2) the Parkside would have made a better Performance on the Screw Drilling then the Ferrex, Ferrex went in a little Deeper before u had to switch to gear 1
@@3DamX1 I honestly expected the same things you said in your initial comment. I was also surprised with the outcome. I feel the Parkside has a lot more potential and if need be there is an 8ah battery for it. The Ferrex let me down…and it let Aldi down!
It is really about buying into the battery system. These are cheap tools The Ferrex cordless chain saw is much superior to my previous Parkside chain saw.
Imho a hammer drill is a specialised tool that's completely overused. They're perfect for making clean holes in tiles but shouldn't be bought if we're not doing that. The wild grinding noise of hammer mode is the sound of a gearset chewing itself to oblivion and should be reserved for when absolutely necessary, not because we don't have the right size SDS bit or because the tool can handle it, this time. A complex mechanism that by design has a limited lifespan, whether it's Ferrex or Makita. Otherwise, both these tools need to be warrantied asap! Thanks for the great review as always, keep em coming 😊
You are correct, however I must say that mostly applies for people purchasing Makita, Milwaukee etc expensive hammer drills. They use them as intended in those cases. For these supermarket hammer drills I see people mostly purchasing them as an all in one drill. This is their first and only drill and they want to make all types of holes with it. That is why I tested them as such. And as seen in the video if the concrete piece is just a bit tougher they fail. I support the idea of having an SDS and regular drill fully. Makes the normal drill less complicated and lighter and you have an SDS that can do much much more in terms of concrete. Thank you for your on point comment as always! I do appreciate having you on the channel!
Thats why i don't own such a Drill
if i want to work on Wood = Drill
If i want to put in Screws = small ones Drill, bit ones Impact Driver
And if i want to work on Stone = a REAL Hammer Drill, either small or big, got both from Lidl.
Hammer function on these is a bit of a gimmick to be fair. You can either have a tool good for a certain task or a tool not that good at some tasks. I also prefer having separate drills make life easier in most regards apart from storage.
I have a Bosch ps 18 li-2 from the green line with hammer function that I bought in 2015-2016. Of course it wasn't being used professionally, but it's still going after all these years, moving out 2 times, building own furniture from scratch, as well as assembling a magnitude of prefabricated furniture, drilling countless holes in the walls for all the imaginable fixtures and now assembling bamboo terrace (which is a real pain in the ass I mus say).
The only problem is that the chuck sounds strangely and sometimes doesn't hold the bit as firmly as a few years ago.
So I suppose it's probably tools like that wouldn't hold up in professional setting, but it's definitely a very good option for regular people
The triggers on Parkside drills tend to have some kind of power saving feature which prevents it from registering the first press after not using the drill for a certain time. Is this what you are experiencing?
50-50. Once it was after not using it for about 5 seconds and the other time was just after being used. It could have been, because it needed some running in, but this is the frist time anything like that occurs on one of these tools. So strange.
What the heck! I had no idea these existed 😮
Always here to bring you new information! They are not too bad for what they cost at all!
Lucky. You have all the good drills from Parkside. For years I've been wanting the 80nm one, but no luck.
Sorry to hear that… I don’t like their sales model in some countries where you have to wait for an entire year to get what you want. On the other hand in some places they have an online store and I like that very much. In most cases I order at 2 am 😅
@@BrokeLifeEU In Belgium they just opened a Parkside store.
@@elenakana5931 I can't find info online about this, you know where in Belgium?
@@elenakana5931 Wasn’t it Hungary 🇭🇺🇭🇺
@@BrokeLifeEU yes you are right! budapest
Ferret Chuck has gone on my drill the same model as in the test
Unfortunately I disassembled it twice and am yet to find a permanent fix. Is yours still broken or have you found a way to fix it?
I have the Aldi Ferrex model & it's very good (Mine was on offer for just a tenner) You need to take a photo of the Till Receipt ASAP, as the printer Ink they (Aldi & Lidl) use, soon fades into a Useless, Blank piece of paper for Guarantee purposes. 📷📸
For sure I will make a copy of the receipt. I usually do so, because I lose the physical copy. I got the Ferrex on sale for about £15 and honestly even with this issue it is still worth that! Just not worth the regular price of about 3 times that.
good video, you should get an aftermarket chuck for the ferrex and see if its better
Thank you! The chuck in this case is only making inserting bits a bit more difficult, otherwise it does not impact performance at all. However I will open it up soon in order to fix it or just get another one. I have a couple of Röhm chucks from Parkside that I have to find a use for so maybe this will be the case here.
The triggering problem was solved with version b3.
This is the B3 version in the video.
Isnt there a sleep mode to avoid accidental drainage ? my 60nm performance drill also has that moment where it doesnt start right away when i put in the battery or i havent used it in a spell. Never found it an nuisance, so I dont mind it. I do have a buzzing sound comming from the bottom of the drill though, thats weird, I'll probably try to waranty mine because of that
@@mandolinka29 This did not occur after the drill not being used for some time. It occurred after I had used it only in a matter of seconds so I don't think it is a sleep mode or anything like that. I think it was most likely a fault with the trigger or some leftover residue on the contacts inside it. But now it seems fine. This was just after I had taken it out of the box.
40v should be heavier and it makes no sense for drills as they don't really require the power. I recently bought the Makita copy (gisam they claim it's 650nm which it definitely isn't) and tested it against real Makita of a similar size and to my surprise it did similar! The trigger is obviously less sensitive but for carbide grinding bits it really didn't matter! My coworker was using Makita and i really wanted to keep up so i pushed it extremely hard and it did not die!
In this case the 40V was the lighter one. The Parkside with the battery was 2.5kg which to me felt on the heavier side. I like smaller drills. My own personal favourite is the 60Nm non-hammer Parkside Performance drill. And for concrete an SDS rotary hammer drill. That I feel is the best combination. I was also thinking of getting my hands on that type of Makita clone and including it in this video, but I spent too much already buy maybe I should have...
@@BrokeLifeEU Completely understand the 60nm as we use Makita of similar size for most jobs at work. I'd go with that Makita clone only if you plan to do heavy work like using carbide grinding bits or drilling through thick stuff where you need the torque.The real Makita isn't worth it for me
@wanderer7779 I am surprised the one fom Gisam has decent power to be fair. I mean 650Nm is impossible but sounds like it is above 65Nm the way you are describing it. Which is solid!
@@BrokeLifeEU Btw for reference gisam with 6ah battery 2269g.
@wanderer7779 I might get one in the future so I can test it out. Looks quite interesting!
So both have problems?
Still not sure about the Parkside. That trigger issue occured twice. I have not been able to make it to that since. The self locking chuck on the Ferrex is broken for sure.
@@BrokeLifeEU The trigger issue on the parkside, are you sure its not the anti kickback? I know my 150nm has it so Im not sure about the 80nm.
That is what I thought, however it does it in a very weird way. I kept it very steady and it hesitated to get going. Then I pressed it again and had no issues. It is not like I was moving the drill about in any direction for it to think kickback. Happened only twice and I have not managed to replicate it since the video.
@@BrokeLifeEU if the drill is new then there is probably insufficient tension on the trigger wipers from the factory which causes it to not close the circuit properly. Best to warranty it. If it's old and dirty, contact cleaner and bending out the wipers can do the trick
It was brand new! I will warranty it in the coming week for sure.
Protip : In hard materials you shouldn't use speed 2. They actually cut better as you can apply more force into the material and you'll get a much faster cleaner whole.
A lot of people think HSS they drill high speed through steel, it just means they bit itself is safe to spin at high speed 😂
As you said I did use speed 2 in all cases while drilling. Also for the steel part I find even a bit of oil makes a lot of difference. However I was surprised by the drill bits. I don‘t know if you made it that far in the video but one was a regular 8mm drill bit by Total and the other was from their Industrial range. I know which ones I will be buying again and which not 😅
@@BrokeLifeEU Stupid phone it was supposed to say shouldn't.
Basically you want high torque,high pressure,low speed.
It will slice through the metal that way, if you have it fast it acts like an abrasive and goes blunt and then won't cut at all.
I went with speed two as per the manuals on these. However I see your point!
@@BrokeLifeEU The instructions for the drill are important, not the screwdriver 😜. When drilling in steel, first gear is often too fast 😉
@@ghostanddiy I will try better next time for sure! BTW love the Camaro!
Very good video my friend. But the drills are not good I think. The best drill I think is Parkside Hammer drill C3 60Nm that is the new version. You tested it before I know.
Thank you so much! I think you have a point the Parkside PSBSAP C3 is a very good drill. The size and weight of a regulat drill but also has a hammer mode if you need it.
These cheap drills aren't meant to be "Flogged to Death" & both have their place for light DIY (Have you tried turning the Broken ?, Ferrex chuck the opposite way - there's an Additional locking system on most drills , they don't tell you about !! See other YT' s on this) Might even be just the chuck, fixing bolt needs re tightening ? There are YT's on that too.
It looks like it is not the chuck itself, rather the gear mechanism inside the drill that stops outside input turning the motor. When I get some more free time I will disassemble it and I am pretty sure it is a gear out of position that just needs to pop back in where it belongs and all will be fine with it again.
Also I would like to say think you for watching the video and for commenting! I appreciate your time and input!
The self locking chuck breaking was disappointing. I mean we can't complain too much considering the price and 3 years of warranty but still. Wasn't the drill from Temu, better than this? 🤔😂 p.s. The drill testing rig is nice; You better patent that asap. 😅
😅 some improvements need to be made to the drill test rig and then - patent pending. As for the Temu drill, it is not close to these, the quality of the materials is very low on that one and it needs a lot of time to get any drilling done. That said it was about a quarter of the price of these, however it has no hammer function so it had no place in this video. Maybe I should have bought some other Aliexpress hammer drill, but I have overspent this month anyway so I thought it was not the best idea.
Which drill do you befar
I have to go with Parkside on this one, it feels like it is better built and more capable. Although I held on to my Ferrex thinking it was better than the Parkside and if you saw in the video the Ferrex went wrong the Parkside is still unknown if it has an issue or not.
@BrokeLifeEU why not just replace the drill chuck and get the switch issue sorted then repeat the test but on the metal test it was un fait as the steel was thicker than the aluminium, try them them on drilling solid metals then but all metals at same spec then that would be a faier test overall, as the drills say they can do wood metal and masonry so I think testing along the lines with the drills max abilities, I hope this helps you
@@paulcarter5337 The chuck as it is just makes it more difficult to change bits, but it does not impact performance. As for the metals I saw no reason to go for same thicknes of aluminium and steel as I am comparing how they drill in one metal type at a time. So steel against steel and aluminium against aluminium. I see what you mean about testing along the lines of the max capabilities of the drills! I will try to do better next time for sure!
Cheap drills are the reason i went and spent the money on a Bosch GSB 18V-150 C 150nm. When you need to get the job done, nothing from a supermarket is going to do it.
I am also considering switching to Bosch after some things I read about them. I was thinking of going with Milwaukee if I could afford that but I am seeing some decent Bosch discounts and in a couple of months I will only be needing a drill and impact wrench so I could end up selling all my Parkside stuff and going for a Bosch GSR and GDX.
@@BrokeLifeEUI have DeWalt impact driver and impact wrench, I'm happy with price to performance, also if I remember correctly, Bosch can be even more expensive than DeWalt. Consider DeWalt as well.
Maybe even get the one with cheaper batteries. I've been using DeWalts 5 ah battery and it runs very long when I used it on wood flooring on the house, I was impressed with the run time.
Most probably you can use battery adapters and interchange batteries, so that you can buy the better tool from each company without buying different batteries.
Conversely Expensive drills ( well my expensive drill ) Bosch PSB 650 watt Green body / Red graphics, Made in Hungary had a couple of years but only used infrequently , and really babied it, kind of making sure to put it down on floor gently on old T shirts and stuff. --- Promised a disabled buddy put curtains up in his new (big) house and wehhay the Damn brand new looking thing just totally failed to start, went to nearest DIY outlet and got MacAlister 600 watt kit £23, and job done. The slow start on the Mac , is excellent! the same feature on the Bosch was rubbish . The Mac has , two year warranty .
Nonsense. Parkside and Ferrex gear will "get the job done" perfectly for 99% of average DIYers at a fantastic price.
@@typhoontim125 I bought a Parkside SDS a couple of years ago so i could chisel out some bricks in a wall. I had to finish the wall with something else because the Parkside SDS died and bits fell out of it within a few hours. No they do not get the job done.
after a closer look to your video, i think that the parkaside 80nm is kind of mediocre. Real torgue must be at 65-70nm rougly not 80nm. Iwould have expected a greater distance in performance between these two but every test i've seen with the 80nm, shows that it is weak, very slow and less less torgue than advertised. the best overall that parkside has to offer is the 64nm psbsap 20 li c3
lidl every time
Because of the longer warranty or?
The one that has the five year warranty do you think in 4 1/2 years? If that product goes wrong they’re gonna have the parts or service infrastructure to fix it. These products are only done as short production runs the salon one month and then you never see him again, next time when they come in the shops, the design and model adult the same goes for the one that has the three year warranty you better off just buying a brand-name like Makita Dewalt. I would say Milwaukee but they’re too expensive and here in the UK where I live you only get a 12 month warranty. With the Milwaukee You can extend it if you’re registered the product but on top of that a lot of their stuff you can’t get spares for spares costs nearly the same as a new product. These cheap drills not worth touching with a barge pole in this video unless you’re going to use them once or twice a year for a bit a light DIY
The Parkside warranty works as intended only in specific countries, where there is an online Lidl store and they have everything available. Otherwise as you say you end up with a refund if the tool goes wrong and in most cases when the tool is needed a refund is the second best option. Parkside is fine for occasional DIY use. For anything more than that I perhaps would go with the cheapest tool brand with all year round availability of their tools which is Einhell. unfortunately they don't have all the tools that Parkside have. So tough choice indeed. I would love for Einhell to come up with a cordless ratchet! Also it must be mentioned that the words spare parts and after warranty service are non-existent in the Parkside dictionary!
you let the drills wobble way too much, try and keep them vertical. if this was say a brick and you were going to use plugs afterwards, it'd not be a snug fit.
I think I should get a drill press at this point. I am making videos with drills and something like that will make things more consistent. I just need to save up for a proper one.
Ferrex copne best tool
How much ? Don't even 😂mention it
Well this channel is costing me too much I can tell you that 😂
this is not a very good comparison as 40v against 20v is inherently skewed
You would expect the 40V to be the better one would you not?
Only seen the first Seconds, and i'd guess Aldi already has the upper Hand, cause 4 Ah new Battery cells, against 5 Ah old Battery cell technology = The Old ones will have a way higher Output, which is already a disadvantage for the Lidl one.
Old 4Ah Lidl battery already has 60 A output, while the new "Smart" one Tops at 50 A
I hope you watch the rest of it and let me know what you think. I won’t say anything to spoil the ending 😜
@@BrokeLifeEU I did, and i'd say with a better Battery (the 4Ah Smart is only better then 2Ah normal, worse then the other 2) the Parkside would have made a better Performance on the Screw Drilling then the Ferrex, Ferrex went in a little Deeper before u had to switch to gear 1
@@3DamX1 I honestly expected the same things you said in your initial comment. I was also surprised with the outcome. I feel the Parkside has a lot more potential and if need be there is an 8ah battery for it. The Ferrex let me down…and it let Aldi down!
It is really about buying into the battery system.
These are cheap tools
The Ferrex cordless chain saw is much superior to my previous Parkside chain saw.