Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere. We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price! Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos. Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here: www.boxer2valve.com/1981-on-mechanical-episode-04-81-gearbox.html
I purchased an airhead just because I have seen hours of videos with you, sir, working on it! What a joy to see people who know what they are doing. Thank you, sir! The output shaft seal on my bike has the flat side on the outside (towards the rear wheel). 1992 R100R. Is that correct? It was leaking at just 38 000 km. It is now time for me to replace it, but I might open the gearbox to inspect it cause I found some metal shavings on the draing plug.
William thank you very much for all these videos, they are being very helpful for my R100RT restoration. At the moment I'm working on my gearbox and the time for shimming has come. Unfortunately, I only have some rough dimensions for shimming plate manufacturing and I was wondering if you could share some manufacturing drawing (with accurate dimensions and tolerances) or any information, so I could make it. I would really appreciate it, so I could continue with the assembly operation. Thanks in advance. Cheers
We do not have the exact dimensions. To make the tool, you would need to make it very precise. It might be possible to use the gearbox cover and duplicate the exact positions and sizes of the holes for the bearings, but we do not have the tools needed to make such measurements as precise as they would need to be. We offer the tool under part number 8871133. It’s in stock and the price is $189.95
Hi William, great video! I wonder if you could help me out with a bit of a problem: I am doing an overhaul to my 1985 r80 gearbox, and the circlipless output shaft bearing had started hiking up the shaft. My 5th gear has a slight play to it, sitting on the shaft I can only just get a 0.05mm feeler between the gear and the output shaft. Is this manageable or should I get the axle and the gear replaced? I can’t seem to find any numbers to reference on this. Thank you!
William, thanks for the videos!! I’m in the process of restoring my 87 R80 and stumbled on to these early on in the process and they are extremely helpful!! When are you posting the next video in this series? Thanks for doing this, it’s a tremendous help!!
Right on! We will be releasing the next one on Friday April 24, 2020 at 8:00PM Eastern Time. It will be a Premier showing at that time and thereafter, of course available at any time on this channel. I hope that you can join us!
Hey i got a 1983 r100 cs and i removed the transmission and discovered a decent amount of play though the gearbox from the input shaft to the output shaft. How much play (degrees of rotation i guess) is allowed before renovating the gearbox. By the way the gearbox works great, i just removed engine and gearbox because its a project bike. I wish you had a EU store, i would love to be able to support you more.
Hey how can a 20 tooth 5th gear mesh with the standard idler gear? Seems like the distance between centers would have to change for the gears to have the same diametral pitch. Thanks for the video.
Hi William , Can I first of all thank you for all the effort you put into your 1st class videos . For a airhead fan like myself who does a lot of restoration work on my 2 r90s's and my 80 g/s Paris Dakar they are invaluable.Could you please confirm to me which way round the small seal at the outside of the main shaft fits. You appear to put it with the flat face facing outwards towards the clutch lever or does it not matter. From a silly Brexit England . Regards Byron PS next time my wife and I visit the States we will be sure to take in your shop and buy some stuff
Hey Byron, The seal is installed with the flat side up, towards the lever. Come see us when you are in the States. North Carolina is cool. You will like it!
My mechanic has been working on and off on my gearbox for way to long. I'm in Ireland. Can I send it to you guys to reassemble? Have you any advice? Please respond. Thank you.
Post-85: no 5th gear circlip... resulted in innumerable destroyed transmissions (BMW blamed transmission failures on "wearing non-BMW boots")... BMW claimed: Problem?? what problem?? until they ultimately returned to the use of the circlip (newer R-series, 247E)... despite "no problem" but changed it back.... learned this the hard way with '91 R100GSPD.... and several drive shafts/kardans
Hi William, I need to replace the 2-nd gear om the intermediate shaft (the middle one) Can you help me how I can remove the other gears whitout damage please. Just press the off ?
Hey William, great and very informative video as always. I’m having some issues with my r80st gearbox and currently I’m in process of getting enough courage to open it. I experience some short rattle noise as I press or pull the shifting lever when shifting into second gear, either from first to second or third to second. Also that krrrr noise is accompanied with reflex reaction on shifting lever. Based on your experience, what particularly should I be looking when I open the gearbox? Can this be issue with shifting mechanism or gears? Thanks!
Why is the sharp side of the Circlip facing out? I can’t imagine why, but I see a mix of both in my gearbox… seems to be more play with the sharp side out…
Hi all, Wouldn't replacing the 5th gear on the output shaft with tall gear, with one extra tooth, require changing the 5th gear on the intermediate shaft? Do the old/tall gears have the same pitch diameter?
William, what Kukko Set are you using for this work? Is it the 17-K one? There are several from Kukko. I have removed bearings differently (not very professionally) in the past and would like to buy the Kukko set. Nice video!
Hello, True, Kukko has lots of puller sets and some seem quite similar to the 17-K but I think that the 17K is the way to go for what we are doing. We have these in stock under part number 6460006. We are glad that the video was helpful.
William, sorry to be thick but I'm struggling to see why sealed bearings are fitted to the layshaft, or indeed any internal bearing. Can you explain this please?
Both bearings on the counter shaft are encapsulated at the end. I believe that there was an issue with the bearings receiving enough oil lubrication. The sealed bearings are internally lubricated. They contain their own grease and don't need to rely on the oil in the gearbox to lubricate them.
William, if I may share my 2ct. From what I recall from my factory training 20 years ago, the only original BMW OEM bearings that are sealed are: 1) the bearing on the output shaft (cover side) has seals on both sides and 2) the bearing on the intermediate shaft (cover side) has a seal on ONE side (the seal should be facing the cover) Only the BMW gods may know why. Yes, bearings with seals on both sides have grease in them ... that eventually will wash away with the oil that sooner or later will penetrate the bearing. Easy to find out, just remove the seals of a (double sealed) bearing on a bearing that you have thrown out, there is no grease left in them. While bearing on the output shaft is partially submerged in the oil, the bearings one on the intermediate shaft are not submerged and depend on oil that's splashed around. Since you can't easily get a bearing that's sealed on one side only, I typically get one with two seals and remove one seal with a screw drive (easy to do) before installing it. The in it grease does not hurt anything and will dissolve in oil.
Hi, bearings have some tolerances in manufacturing. They are not absolutely exactly the same, so whenever the bearings are replaced, the shimming should be checked and corrected.
Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere.
We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price!
Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos.
Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here:
www.boxer2valve.com/1981-on-mechanical-episode-04-81-gearbox.html
William, thank for these two video’s about the gearbox. Very good. Greetings from Holland!
Glad you like them! Greetings back from North Carolina!
I was already waiting for this video - great! Now I can finish my work on the gearbox. Thanks a lot and go on like this.
Glad I could help!
Be sure to follow us on Facebook at boxer2valve and Instagram at boxerTWOvalve!
Merci 🙏🏻 pour vôtre vidéo et vos conseils formidables !!! Grâce à vous je m’intéresse à cette mécanique si passionnante de nos Bmw r80
I really like your videos. Lots of tips and explanations. Thank you!
Happy to hear that!
Great video again. Really enjoying this series
Glad you enjoy it!
Great job William!
Thank you! Cheers!
Great instructional video. Thanks for posting. You guys rock.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video as always! Very helpful!
Glad you think so!
I purchased an airhead just because I have seen hours of videos with you, sir, working on it! What a joy to see people who know what they are doing. Thank you, sir!
The output shaft seal on my bike has the flat side on the outside (towards the rear wheel). 1992 R100R. Is that correct? It was leaking at just 38 000 km.
It is now time for me to replace it, but I might open the gearbox to inspect it cause I found some metal shavings on the draing plug.
Very satisfying to see this cases vapour blasted!
Agreed!
William thank you very much for all these videos, they are being very helpful for my R100RT restoration. At the moment I'm working on my gearbox and the time for shimming has come. Unfortunately, I only have some rough dimensions for shimming plate manufacturing and I was wondering if you could share some manufacturing drawing (with accurate dimensions and tolerances) or any information, so I could make it. I would really appreciate it, so I could continue with the assembly operation.
Thanks in advance.
Cheers
We do not have the exact dimensions. To make the tool, you would need to make it very precise. It might be possible to use the gearbox cover and duplicate the exact positions and sizes of the holes for the bearings, but we do not have the tools needed to make such measurements as precise as they would need to be.
We offer the tool under part number 8871133. It’s in stock and the price is $189.95
Just found your channel and love it. I have 1986 r80rt what would be the cost for a rebuild and 5 gear change on my trans.
Hi William, great video! I wonder if you could help me out with a bit of a problem: I am doing an overhaul to my 1985 r80 gearbox, and the circlipless output shaft bearing had started hiking up the shaft. My 5th gear has a slight play to it, sitting on the shaft I can only just get a 0.05mm feeler between the gear and the output shaft. Is this manageable or should I get the axle and the gear replaced? I can’t seem to find any numbers to reference on this. Thank you!
Bitte, wie hast du eine so schöne Reinigung des Aluminium-Getriebegehäuses hinbekommen? danke Martin
William, thanks for the videos!! I’m in the process of restoring my 87 R80 and stumbled on to these early on in the process and they are extremely helpful!! When are you posting the next video in this series? Thanks for doing this, it’s a tremendous help!!
Right on! We will be releasing the next one on Friday April 24, 2020 at 8:00PM Eastern Time. It will be a Premier showing at that time and thereafter, of course available at any time on this channel. I hope that you can join us!
Hey i got a 1983 r100 cs and i removed the transmission and discovered a decent amount of play though the gearbox from the input shaft to the output shaft. How much play (degrees of rotation i guess) is allowed before renovating the gearbox.
By the way the gearbox works great, i just removed engine and gearbox because its a project bike.
I wish you had a EU store, i would love to be able to support you more.
Hey how can a 20 tooth 5th gear mesh with the standard idler gear? Seems like the distance between centers would have to change for the gears to have the same diametral pitch. Thanks for the video.
Hi William ,
Can I first of all thank you for all the effort you put into your 1st class videos . For a airhead fan like myself who does a lot of restoration work on my 2 r90s's and my 80 g/s Paris Dakar they are invaluable.Could you please confirm to me which way round the small seal at the outside of the main shaft fits. You appear to put it with the flat face facing outwards towards the clutch lever or does it not matter. From a silly Brexit England . Regards Byron
PS next time my wife and I visit the States we will be sure to take in your shop and buy some stuff
Hey Byron, The seal is installed with the flat side up, towards the lever. Come see us when you are in the States. North Carolina is cool. You will like it!
My mechanic has been working on and off on my gearbox for way to long.
I'm in Ireland.
Can I send it to you guys to reassemble?
Have you any advice?
Please respond.
Thank you.
Post-85: no 5th gear circlip... resulted in innumerable destroyed transmissions (BMW blamed transmission failures on "wearing non-BMW boots")... BMW claimed: Problem?? what problem?? until they ultimately returned to the use of the circlip (newer R-series, 247E)... despite "no problem" but changed it back.... learned this the hard way with '91 R100GSPD.... and several drive shafts/kardans
When you are adding grease to several shims [stacked] on the same shaft, will this then increase the shim thickness?
Hello!! What the number special kukko extractor for this job???? 17-1 or other???
Hi William, I need to replace the 2-nd gear om the intermediate shaft (the middle one) Can you help me how I can remove the other gears whitout damage please. Just press the off ?
Hey William, great and very informative video as always. I’m having some issues with my r80st gearbox and currently I’m in process of getting enough courage to open it. I experience some short rattle noise as I press or pull the shifting lever when shifting into second gear, either from first to second or third to second. Also that krrrr noise is accompanied with reflex reaction on shifting lever. Based on your experience, what particularly should I be looking when I open the gearbox? Can this be issue with shifting mechanism or gears? Thanks!
You really need to look at all parts carefully. Bearings, bushings and gearwheels especially however from what you are describing.
boxer2valve BMW Restoration and Parts Supplier Thanks for the advice! Looking forward to seeing new episodes
Why is the sharp side of the Circlip facing out? I can’t imagine why, but I see a mix of both in my gearbox… seems to be more play with the sharp side out…
Hi all, Wouldn't replacing the 5th gear on the output shaft with tall gear, with one extra tooth, require changing the 5th gear on the intermediate shaft? Do the old/tall gears have the same pitch diameter?
Would have been great if you had shown how the forks fit correctly. I love your videos nonetheless.
Really helpfull videos William thanks a lot
Can you tell us what is the brand of your Press?
Thanks
Moum’s from france
Hi and thanks for your comment. The press is a DAKE and I really like it a lot! Highly recommended.
William, what Kukko Set are you using for this work? Is it the 17-K one? There are several from Kukko. I have removed bearings differently (not very professionally) in the past and would like to buy the Kukko set. Nice video!
Hello,
True, Kukko has lots of puller sets and some seem quite similar to the 17-K but I think that the 17K is the way to go for what we are doing. We have these in stock under part number 6460006. We are glad that the video was helpful.
The shim measurements are a pain in the a. Not easy and you have to take your time.
William, sorry to be thick but I'm struggling to see why sealed bearings are fitted to the layshaft, or indeed any internal bearing. Can you explain this please?
Both bearings on the counter shaft are encapsulated at the end. I believe that there was an issue with the bearings receiving enough oil lubrication. The sealed bearings are internally lubricated. They contain their own grease and don't need to rely on the oil in the gearbox to lubricate them.
William, if I may share my 2ct. From what I recall from my factory training 20 years ago, the only original BMW OEM bearings that are sealed are:
1) the bearing on the output shaft (cover side) has seals on both sides and
2) the bearing on the intermediate shaft (cover side) has a seal on ONE side (the seal should be facing the cover)
Only the BMW gods may know why.
Yes, bearings with seals on both sides have grease in them ... that eventually will wash away with the oil that sooner or later will penetrate the bearing. Easy to find out, just remove the seals of a (double sealed) bearing on a bearing that you have thrown out, there is no grease left in them.
While bearing on the output shaft is partially submerged in the oil, the bearings one on the intermediate shaft are not submerged and depend on oil that's splashed around.
Since you can't easily get a bearing that's sealed on one side only, I typically get one with two seals and remove one seal with a screw drive (easy to do) before installing it. The in it grease does not hurt anything and will dissolve in oil.
William, if all you're doing is replacing the bearings, why does the cover have to be reshimmed.
Hi, bearings have some tolerances in manufacturing. They are not absolutely exactly the same, so whenever the bearings are replaced, the shimming should be checked and corrected.
And the bmw mechanics were often not accurate enough.
Great vid but BMW gearbox too scary for me.
So bottom line. Leave the gearbox closed unless you have the special tools.
Footnote; After having seen the job done, stop whining about the price tag.