Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere. We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price! Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos. Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here: www.boxer2valve.com/1981-on-mechanical-episode-04-81-gearbox.html
Thanks so much for these videos! Your expertise really shows and makes me way more comfortable working in my bike myself:) So thanks for keeping the home mechanics alive in this time of rare real mechanics
To reiterate what others have said, one of the best clear and concise videos ive seen on stripdown and rebuild of a bike gearbox, regardless of make. Excellent all round 👍
William, I have watched all your tutorials more than 3-4 times each and I would like to let you know how wonderfully they are produced. It reminds me of watching a really good movie numerous times were the quality of the acting only seems to improve. The depth of information that you impart in your tutorials is fantastic. Thank you, regards John
With all the training I had with Ducati, Aprilia , Moto Guzzi & Vespa guess what was the first thing to come on my bench . Yup …. replacing the shift pawl spring on an R100RT . Amazing an 85 cent part wold be so labor intensive to replace.
Map gas (yellow tanks) works well to heat the case to remove the cover and the shafts. Great Job Bill and company. Another great video. Do a GS rebuild next ;-)
I have heard that but never tried it. I use the heat gun because you can't reach a melting point with it and you can set it down and do other things while the part is heating. I'm sure that you are right about the map gas though. Great tip! Thank you.
Interesting to see the inside mechanics of the gear box, helps to understand what happens in there. I'll need to replace the cover gasket and drive shaft seal soon.
Great work once again, thank you William. Might the nylon detent wheel give a subtle resistancxe to a shift, helping to avoid accidental shifting, I wonder? Could the hard faced bearing, with reduced resistance in the ball race, lead to too slick a shifting action? I'd imagine the people at BMW gave a lot of thought to the mechanism and stayed with nylon, knowing that deformation is the compromise that they needed to make, to retain the feel that they were looking for. With such a mechanism to be found across such a range of models and such a time span, it seems odd that they appear to have stayed with nylon. Brilliant experts like you will probabaly have given feedback, when these bikes were in production, and I'm sure BMW would have paid heed to your wisdom.
WOW - incredible! THANKS. at 9:58, you talk about the shift mechanism. "This is the later version..." ? So how would I know if I have the latest version ? ? When did they start using this later version ? ? If I'm ordering, what is THAT part # vs. the older version part #
Hey William. First of all. Thank you for these amazing videos! This is pure gold. I do, however have a question that I hope you can help me with. Im on a troubleshooting mission! Im having some issues with my clutch and/or transmission. 1. Im having problems going to neutral when my engine is hot. And sometimes its very tough getting it from 2nd to 1st. 2 The clutch / transmission rattles a bit when im in neutral (it goes away if im pulling the clutch or goes in gear) 3. The clutch is not slipping. 4. I have tried all sorts of clutch adjustments. Ive tried setting it to the 20.8mm pr Haynes and the Clymer manual. And wiggles on and off to adjust due to the bikes age. 5. Ive changed all the oils Before im pulling off the clutch and transmission.. Do you have any ideas to what it might be?
One pal had the shift selector spring break, being stuck in 4th. Unreal the box has to come out to fix a what seems flawed design. If you look at a unit BSA gearbox the springs are very beefy, I dred that spring on my r60 going in bear country up here.
Greetings, I have a 1976 (10/75) R90/6 transmission that needs to be rebuilt. Is that roller bearing that replaces the nylon shift detent holder available for the pre-1981 transmission. thanks great video
My bike has been sitting for almost 20 years and I'm almost finished restoring it enough to ride it (As a college student I can't afford to have it rebuilt, and I do not own the tools or experience required to do it myself). I'm having an issue that doesn't seem to be caused by a broken spring on the shift mechanism and isn't addressed in this video. The shift lever will change gears fine but it has to be manually returned to the center position to shift again. (If I lift up from first to go to second, I have to push it back down a bit before I can shift to third, and same for any other shift). It's almost like the shifter is "stiff". I have replaced all the fluids in the bike, but have not ridden it enough yet to warm up the fluids or any parts. Is there anything I can check externally that might cause this, or will riding it for a bit fix this issue?
Hello, If your bike has a linkage from the shifter arm to the shift lever (/7 and later) check to make sure that the linkage pivots are clean and greased! If that's not the issue, or if you have an earlier bike, then there could be corrosion or worn parts inside. Changing the oil and running the bike to operating temperature might help. You may also want to try Liqui Moly MoS2 Anti-Friction for Gears, which we offer under part number 2202019.
Download your copy of this episode to view anytime and anywhere.
We now have Downloads of each episode and the entire series available through our website for a VERY small price!
Why pay for a download? Not only does this help ensure you will always have access to this video but it also supports our video team with proceeds for video equipment maintenance and new production gear to help us create additional 2 Valve focused videos.
Find the Digital Downloads and Parts Used in this video here:
www.boxer2valve.com/1981-on-mechanical-episode-04-81-gearbox.html
Thanks so much for these videos! Your expertise really shows and makes me way more comfortable working in my bike myself:) So thanks for keeping the home mechanics alive in this time of rare real mechanics
To reiterate what others have said, one of the best clear and concise videos ive seen on stripdown and rebuild of a bike gearbox, regardless of make. Excellent all round 👍
Brilliant tutorials just starting my first bmw restoration project These Videos have made things a whole lot easier.
William, I have watched all your tutorials more than 3-4 times each and I would like to let you know how wonderfully they are produced. It reminds me of watching a really good movie numerous times were the quality of the acting only seems to improve. The depth of information that you impart in your tutorials is fantastic. Thank you, regards John
Great explanation and demo. I especially liked the details on the shifter mechanism! Thank you, as always!
Thanks again Frank!
Absolutely amazing stuff from THE Godfather of BMW boxer bikes !!!!
Glad you like it ! You positive comment motivates us to do more.
"Now this is the hard part, OH!" That was hilarious! It's like picking up an empty gallon of milk when you think it's full.
With all the training I had with Ducati, Aprilia , Moto Guzzi & Vespa guess what was the first thing to come on my bench . Yup …. replacing the shift pawl spring on an R100RT . Amazing an 85 cent part wold be so labor intensive to replace.
Now I see why it’s worth $$$$ to have a knowledgeable expert do a trans rebuild.
Hey Konrad, yes.... it's quite detailed.
Great video , thanks William for your time and professionalism greetings from Texas...!!!
Thanks and welcome
Excellent video William - well done as always.
Many thanks Peter!
Map gas (yellow tanks) works well to heat the case to remove the cover and the shafts.
Great Job Bill and company. Another great video. Do a GS rebuild next ;-)
I have heard that but never tried it. I use the heat gun because you can't reach a melting point with it and you can set it down and do other things while the part is heating. I'm sure that you are right about the map gas though. Great tip! Thank you.
EXCELLENT video !
Glad you liked it!
Interesting to see the inside mechanics of the gear box, helps to understand what happens in there. I'll need to replace the cover gasket and drive shaft seal soon.
Great! Glad that we can help you.
These vids are amazing! Always wanted to see a good video of how to renovate a gearbox :-)
Please keep making more like these :-)
Thanks, will do!
😮😮❤❤❤😮😮😮 motojezebel ❤'s you!
Great work once again, thank you William.
Might the nylon detent wheel give a subtle resistancxe to a shift, helping to avoid accidental shifting, I wonder? Could the hard faced bearing, with reduced resistance in the ball race, lead to too slick a shifting action? I'd imagine the people at BMW gave a lot of thought to the mechanism and stayed with nylon, knowing that deformation is the compromise that they needed to make, to retain the feel that they were looking for. With such a mechanism to be found across such a range of models and such a time span, it seems odd that they appear to have stayed with nylon. Brilliant experts like you will probabaly have given feedback, when these bikes were in production, and I'm sure BMW would have paid heed to your wisdom.
Or maybe they just wanted to save a couple pfennings ?
We have been using the roller bearing for years and there is no disadvantage. Works brilliantly!
Top!!!
WOW - incredible! THANKS. at 9:58, you talk about the shift mechanism. "This is the later version..." ? So how would I know if I have the latest version ? ? When did they start using this later version ? ? If I'm ordering, what is THAT part # vs. the older version part #
Hey William. First of all. Thank you for these amazing videos! This is pure gold.
I do, however have a question that I hope you can help me with. Im on a troubleshooting mission!
Im having some issues with my clutch and/or transmission.
1. Im having problems going to neutral when my engine is hot. And sometimes its very tough getting it from 2nd to 1st.
2 The clutch / transmission rattles a bit when im in neutral (it goes away if im pulling the clutch or goes in gear)
3. The clutch is not slipping.
4. I have tried all sorts of clutch adjustments. Ive tried setting it to the 20.8mm pr Haynes and the Clymer manual. And wiggles on and off to adjust due to the bikes age.
5. Ive changed all the oils
Before im pulling off the clutch and transmission.. Do you have any ideas to what it might be?
Hello . I would like to place an order .
For gear box parts seals spring gusket etc.
Can you please sent a link to place an order .
Thank you .
That beast of an airhead with knobby tires behind you is stunning! What's the story on that one?
One pal had the shift selector spring break, being stuck in 4th. Unreal the box has to come out to fix a what seems flawed design. If you look at a unit BSA gearbox the springs are very beefy, I dred that spring on my r60 going in bear country up here.
Tkanks a lot!!!
You're welcome!
Great video! Is there a chance to make a video about the engine's cam shaft and crankshaft check and reassembly?
Great suggestion! We may do that at some point.
Greetings, I have a 1976 (10/75) R90/6 transmission that needs to be rebuilt. Is that roller bearing that replaces the nylon shift detent holder available for the pre-1981 transmission. thanks great video
well, I just checked out your website & answered my own question, it appears the answer is YES !
Sometimes my r100 drops out of 2nd into neutral or is reluctant to go from first to 2nd
My bike has been sitting for almost 20 years and I'm almost finished restoring it enough to ride it (As a college student I can't afford to have it rebuilt, and I do not own the tools or experience required to do it myself). I'm having an issue that doesn't seem to be caused by a broken spring on the shift mechanism and isn't addressed in this video. The shift lever will change gears fine but it has to be manually returned to the center position to shift again. (If I lift up from first to go to second, I have to push it back down a bit before I can shift to third, and same for any other shift). It's almost like the shifter is "stiff". I have replaced all the fluids in the bike, but have not ridden it enough yet to warm up the fluids or any parts. Is there anything I can check externally that might cause this, or will riding it for a bit fix this issue?
Hello,
If your bike has a linkage from the shifter arm to the shift lever (/7 and later) check to make sure that the linkage pivots are clean and greased! If that's not the issue, or if you have an earlier bike, then there could be corrosion or worn parts inside. Changing the oil and running the bike to operating temperature might help. You may also want to try Liqui Moly MoS2 Anti-Friction for Gears, which we offer under part number 2202019.
@@boxer2valve Thanks for the response. One of the pivot joints was almost completely seized. Cleaned, greased, and much better.
Hello, could you show how to disassemble the kick starter lever ? Thank you!
We'll get on it ASAP ! Thanks for watching .
Would this also apply for a 79 BMW R45 gearbox? Could the final gear ratio be increased? Thanks for the lessons.
Yes, absolutely. You will need the version without the X and that"part number 2322889
@@boxer2valve You guys are saints. LOL Thanks a bunch!
Hi, What is the part number for the BMW factory transmission flange tool?
Hello. We will soon have this tool available. Probably by mid May 2020. The part number is 8231700. (not yet available as of mid April 2020)
"cushdrive": torsion damper
Traduction en français ?