INFINITI QX80/Nissan Armada alternator not charging the battery? VVCS and IPDM could be your issue.
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- Опубліковано 8 лис 2022
- This video explains how a Variable Voltage control system (VVCS) works and why it can sometimes cause your battery to not get recharged properly. It also shows you where the IPDM is located and which wire to cut if you want to deactivate your VVCS. If your Infinity or Nissan battery goes dead frequently, this video is worth watching before you go buy a new battery or replace an alternator.
This video has been verified to work on:
2011 thru 2013 QX56
2014 thru 2016 QX80
All the above have connector E13 pin 33 which is a red wire.
UPDATE 12/23/22: Since making this change, our battery that would typically go dead in about 6 weeks is no longer going dead. It has been working great! - Авто та транспорт
I get a lot of questions about just unplugging the current sensor from the negative lead. That is a viable solution, but it isn't exactly the same thing as cutting the wire as I demonstrate in this video. Cutting the wire very specifically only impacts the PWM signal for VVCS. Disconnecting the negative lead impacts the entire current sensing circuit, which essentially lies to the IPDM & ECM. That may impact more than just alternator charging and that is why I have taken a different approach for the long term use in my vehicle. Unplugging the current sensor does work and is a best approach when temporarily troubleshooting.
Hey Jack, I just bought my 2015 QX 2 days ago and after the first day, the car was struggling to start even though the battery was just replaced by the dealer last month(June). I saw the no crank, no start video of yours and was excited to think your hack would fix this problem. I just tried this fix to only find that the red wire was pulled out of the connector, so instead of cutting the wire, a previous owner just pulled it out. Can I assume that pulling the wire out of the connector, although harder to do, is the same as cutting the wire? Also, I just bought a car fax report and “electrical system check” was something that several Infiniti dealers had performed over the years in addition to replacing the battery 5 times since 2015. The starter was also replaced once during this time. I can see the starting issues were a constant with this vehicle. So, with the hack to the red wire already done and the starting issues continuing, is it likely that the starter might be bad again? Thanks.
This VVCS issue is common on a few different Infinity/nissan models. It's more prevalent in the SUV's because they draw more current from the battery when starting. Thus, they have a greater demand to recharge, which doesn't happen as well as is needed because of VVCS. Your vehicle does appear to be struggling with the recharge. I can't say for sure that your starter is bad. When a starter fails, it typically doesn't crank at all. A slow crank is typically a low battery. I would have the battery fully recharged with a battery charger. If you don't have one, several autopart stores offer the service for free, but you'll have to take the battery out and take it to their store to leave overnight. As for the red wire removal, yes, removing the wire from the connector is the same effect as cutting the wire. Most people don't know how to de-pin a wire, so it's most likely that a dealer did that.
@@jackharding98Thanks Jack. I did just realize that the battery looks really small for this vehicle. It’s way smaller than even my 2020 Maxima. The used car dealer might have just thrown in whatever battery they had laying around. I’m going to go to the auto parts store and have them test this battery versus what should be put in it. Those note no labels or anything with cranking apps for this as a sidenote, I’ve also noticed that whenever I’m at a stoplight, the AC goes out, but it’s just fine when we’re driving on the interstate. Could that have anything to do with too small of a battery?
Sorry, Siri butchered my dictation. Let me know if anything anything she wrote for me doesn’t make sense. APPS should be amps.
@gloriakarabin172 I'm glad you noticed the battery is likely too small. Yes, not enough cranking Amps would definitely cause your car to crank slow and have issues when the alternator wasn't outputting all it can. The auto parts store or a Walmart can test your battery and get you the proper size.👍
Was having this problem and no one could figure out what was wrong. I got stuck at a warehouse with no employees around. Took 2 hrs to find some one to jump me off. Very scary! On my way home decided as a 71 year old grandmother I had to trade my 2014 QX80 which I love. Looked one more time to find explanations and found your video so this granny opened my hood found the IPDM pulled it out and did exactly what you said and it has cranked every time since!!! I consider you my miracle from the Lord! Thank you so much for sharing this!
I'm glad you found the video, and that's its been helpful. Great job at making the fix yourself.👍
Amazing. I was on my 3rd battery thinking that was the issue. I cut the wire and now I have no issues! I owe this guy a beer!!!
Sharing your experience is enough, no beers required.🙂 I'm glad this video helped.
I have a 2018 Nissan Armada Platinum Reserve. I’ve gone through three batteries in 1.5 years. Took it to my mechanic a couple of weeks ago and replaced the battery yet again. The battery was toast again. He said the fluctuating voltmeter must be a “Nissan thing”. The next step was to replace the alternator at a price tag of $900 (with labor)!!!!
Took a 4.5 hour trip and watched the voltage meter on the dash still moving all over. Checked the battery upon arrival at the final destination, the battery was at 67%and producing 12.5 volts. 🤦♂️
Found this video and read through all the comments and saw that others were reporting similar issues. Probably watched the video a dozen times and contemplated whether I should really do it… I “cut the cord” and my voltage meter is rock steady at 14.2 volts. Hasn’t moved once!
Jack the video was point on and easy to understand and follow. Took me less than 10 minutes. You saved me $900 in replacing an alternator that didn’t need replacing!
Thanks for your comments 👍. I'm glad to hear the video helped.
Same issue here. 2018 Nissan Armada Platinum Reserve. Ongoing, random, no start issues for 4 years that comes and goes. I just spent some time talking to the dealership mechanic about this very video. Their response was, they're worried cutting this wire may lead to unforeseen issues with the battery and they highly recommend alternator replacement. I've already replaced the battery and some other things they've recommended. Nothing seems to work. I'm almost $750 into various shots in the dark, and now I'm facing $900 alternator replacement.
My question is - what are the long term risks to "cutting the red wire" so to speak? Will it fry the battery quicker? One thing is for sure - this is an issue Nissan needs to fix. Just searching around briefly, it seems to be a pretty wide spread problem many of us are facing. Great vid. Thanks!
@DanBradford-nq5kv The average quality replacement battery has a service life of 3 years. I have enjoyed getting that life from my batteries without having them go dead frequently since I made this change. The worst case scenario long term issue is slight over charging on really long road trips, like 500 miles or so.
You are literally changing lives, saving people money, and reliving stress with this video. This WAS an issue I have dealt with for years. After almost being stranded again with a two-month-old battery I was about to sell my 2013 QX56 until I watched this video. The process was easy, and I always knew there was an issue with charging and didn’t understand why the needle was in the middle while operating the vehicle. This was very easy to understand, and you explained it to the T. Thank you again Sir for this video.
Thanks for your kind words. I'm glad the video helped.
@@jackharding98 Has any reviewer confirmed for 2020 model years? Just replaced a battery last week at an ungodly cost.
@perrywiggins6567 yes, 2020 was confirmed in the comments of this video.
I have a 2011 QX 56 is the same cable in yours
I would assume it would be the same wire since your QX56 is pretty much the same as my 2013.@jesusmendez600
Thanks for the post. It works. After 4 batteries in 2 years the charging voltage jumped up. Nissan needs to fix this in a recall. I got stranded the other day in a terrible neighborhood with a dead battery. Someone is going to get hurt or killed as a result of the clear defect in these vehicles. This design is ridiculous and dangerous to those of us who own these vehicles.
I tried your suggestion and it has worked for the last 6 months without any issues. For the last 2 years I was having issues with my Armada 2020 not starting very often. The only way to fix it was to charge the battery overnight every week. Now that I have cut that 1 wire everything stays changed and I have zero issues. Before this solution Nissan told me that my driving hobbits were causing the problem and that they had no solution for me, which is absolutely insane. I would drive 20 minutes of highway to and from work each day and by the end of the week the battery wasn't charged enough to start the car. Thank you for fixing this for me!
@@ericharbison8296 I'm really glad to have helped. Thanks for sharing your experience. 👍
I never. Ever. Ever. Comment on UA-cam. But I'm grateful you posted this, you explained it so well, you visually showed everything that needed to happen and it's evident that this will save us from our battery issues.
Thank you. My 2016 qx80 also appreciates it.
I'm honored that this video earned your comment. Glad it was helpful for you. Thanks for sharing.
Well, it's only been a day, but since I cut the cord ... it's started perfectly without hesitation four times. Which is four more times than it was able to do yesterday. Thankfully I didn't go through the hell of taking it into the dealership to be fleeced so fingers crossed this solves my issue. Jack, you saved me over a thousand bucks for reals. BIG props!!
Had this problem for the last year and no one could figure it out. Watched your video today and cut the red cord and it all seems good! You’re a lifesaver! Thanks!
Great! Glad to have helped, it's nice to know the video was useful, I appreciate you commenting.
The dealership in Pawleys, Coastal Nissan wanted to charge me $5,600 to fix this problem. Starter, battery, computer module, fuse block, etc. AND they would not confirm this would fix the problem. YOU DID! Thank you!
Thanks for commenting and sharing this. Glad the video helped. It's nice to hear this video is helpful.
YEP!!!! They were going to cut that wire AND STILL charge you $5,600….saying THWT they did replace all those items.
I’ve worked at dealerships…..crap like that and charging man-hours based in the “book” regardless of the ACTUAL amount of time it took to do the job is how they stay in business!! Parts and Service departments and the pre owned lot contribute ~80% of a stealership’s revenue….NOT the selling of cars!!!
I tried this on my 2015 QX 80. and it worked like a charm. I replaced my battery 4 times in 6 months and the dealership did not have an answer. why is there not been a recall to fix the system.? I am getting maximum voltage from my alternator. thank you Jack and God Bless you. I guess infinite just wants to keep taking peoples money.
🙌🙏 Jack, I just wanted to say THANK YOU! and let you know how much I appreciate you doing this video. The shop charged me almost $500 last summer because of this issue. Glad to know we won't be having that issue any longer! Thanks again!
Grant
Glad the video helped, thanks for letting me know.
$500 to cut a wire!!! What is wrong with people these days?
I got stranded by my 2019 Infiniti QX80 Luxe and needed a jump start. The battery was new in 2022 and a reflash was done at the same time by the previous owner under warranty so I thought the problem was solved by them. Watched the video and the wiring was the exact same for my vehicle. One snip and I'm now getting a full charge at all times. Hopefully the low charging didn't hurt the 1 year old battery which is at 12.45v right after the fix. Thanks for taking the time to post this video and your help to solve this problem.
03/09/24
Thank you so much for taking the time to explain thoroughly so a person like me can understand the issue. I had already put one battery in it it was getting ready to do another when I decided to look on UA-cam and see if anybody had a similar problem. My wife was driving on I-35 when the car just shut down in the middle of the freeway. After charging my battery for a short short amount of time and cutting the red wire my QX80 has never started like it does now and it has never charged as high on the gauge as it does right now. I really appreciate you taking the time and helping out a lot of us that have gone through this issue it really made my day.
Thank you
I'm glad to hear the video was helpful for you. Thanks for sharing your experience. 👍
What an awesome video I was headed to go see mom, sick mother and almost turned around. Literally cannot express my gratitude enough
Glad the video helped. I'm lifting a prayer to Jesus right now for your mom.
Man. So good Jack. I’m eating a battery in my wife’s QX80 every 9 months and had no idea how to make it stop. Thank you.
Same here. That is the only issue we ever had with that car. The dealers are probably covering up this issue for Nissan. They have to know about it.
I had the same issue as everyone else, new battery not charging and I would have to charge it manually. I feared it was the alternator but it tested fine. I am so happy I came across this video because since cutting that wire I have had no issues. Thank you!
@callen83r Thanks for taking the time to share your experience. I am glad the video helped.
I am so grateful for this video. Thank you for such an amazing explanation and providing all the details for the solution. My wife's 2018 QX80 was having this issue over the past couple years and we replaced the battery twice. We knew something was off and had everything tested (battery, alternator, starter) which all passed and thanks to some online searching, I was able to learn about this VVCS. I cut this wire yesterday and it solved the issue of watching the needle gauge for the battery jumping between 12v and 14v. Hopefully it permanently solves the issue of the constant short term battery drain.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I'm glad you found the video.
Jack, I am grateful the Lord gave you the wisdom to come up with this solution, and you were generous enough to share it with everyone. This has been the exact problem on my wife's 2019 Nissan Armada. Same wiring scenario and clipping the wire solved the problem no one seemed to be able to figure out even after 4 replacement batteries and weekly chargings. Thank you again!
Thanks for sharing. Glad to hear this video helped. All glory to the Lord.
2018 Armada - was going thru multiple batteries due to this issue. Also, being stranded in random places due to non start. After my teenage daughter got stranded I decided to sell car. Carried jumper cables with me everywhere. Nissan would never address issue. Saw your video and said last resort. Followed directions and cut that wire! Starts perfectly now, every time!!! THANK YOU.
I'm really glad the video helped, and you and your daughter can drive with confidence and safety again. Thanks for sharing your experience.
We have been fighting this for over a year. Every now and then it just wont start! Ramps it up even more because this is not my car, it belongs to the spousal apparatus!!
Funny, i noticed today the battery guage jumping around. UA-camd QX80 alternator and thank goodness your video popped up!
I went outside with every intention of pushing that pin out, but got nowhere, so i did the snip and shrink tubing.
I am so very appreciative to you for not only discovering the issue but taking the time to share it! Bravo sir!
Now just have the incessant door lock issues and the bouncy steering wheel when you go over bumps!!
Glad the video helped.
My newer batteries were draining and I was left stranded multiple times. I thought it was the alternator or battery. Thank you for your help I try the red wire cut modification and my alternator is charging my battery properly and it’s working great. Thank you!!!!
Your welcome, thanks for sharing your experience.
Just found your video and I can’t thank you enough. My wife has been left stranded multiple times in our 2020 armada. I replaced the battery just 4 months ago and this issue has been popping up several times a week. No one knows how to fix it. I just cut the wire and hope this works! Thank you again!
I'm glad you found the video. I hope it is the solution your car needs. We've never had a dead battery since I made the change. 👍
Thanks so much. Performed the procedure after my brand new battery went dead. Drove on the highway for an hour. Got home a checked everything, and all was good. Appreciate your video.
Thanks for watching, glad to hear the video helped.
@@jackharding98 I was In a time crunch to pick up my granddaughter from church. The battery was completely dead and it took 20 minutes to restart it after I'd clipped the wire and got everything done. I charged the battery overnight, drove it today with not one issue. Thank you again Jack. It's people like you that make this world a better place. God-bless you.
@jackharding98 I can't express enough gratitude for this video. Like others, it was incredibly frustrating to be told my multiple shops that both my alternator and battery were fine yet we were constantly having battery issues. As an electrical engineer, this made absolutely no sense to me so this solution filled in the missing blank - the alternator was being throttled from charging based on whatever algorithms Nissan's engineers came up with. It was even more frustrating how the problem was so intermittent without any sort of pattern to detect when starting problems would occur. Took it to the shop, couldn't repeat the problem, took it home, had a dead battery, and the pattern would continue. It's also interesting that none of the shops I took my Armada to had ever heard of this "feature" from Nissan. I clipped the wire and I'm seeing that constant voltage. Thanks again!
Glad to have helped a fellow electrical engineering guy. I remember how it felt when all I understood about electrical charging systems wasn't lining up with the dead batteries. Frustrating! Thanks for sharing your experience.
Thanks for the video. I have a 2018 Armada and couldn't figure out why, when I got in after the SUV sitting for a day or so, it sounded like the battery was low especially when I was running short trips around town. Yet when I get the SUV out on the road towing my travel trailer it did better, although I have a digital volt meter plugged into the cigarette lighter and it would occasionally read 12V or below. Then the volt meter would go back up again; it was as if there was an inline switch. Now I know there was.
I had read about this solution on the internet in some of the forums before I found your video, but I couldn't find pictures or videos to show exactly what wire to cut. Your video showed exactly which wire to cut and how to get to it. Thanks so much!
I'm glad the video helped with the details you needed. Thanks for your comments 👍 You're right. There is essentially a "switch" in the charging system, and heavy loads will cause the "switch " to remain off. It's counterintuitive that big electrical loads actually result in a charged battery, but light electrical demand doesn't.
You don’t know how long we have been trying to figure this out. Stealership keeps saying that can’t figure it out and replaces the battery. I was just about to replace the alternator. Thank you!
You're right, I don't know how long you've been trying to figure out why your battery won't stay charged, but I'm really glad you found this video and shared your comment 😊. Glad to hear it has been helpful.
I can confirm the same PIN layout on a 2018 QX80 and it worked like a charm. Thank You!
Thank you for letting us know! I really appreciate the feedback.
Had the same issues as everyone else in the comments for our 2020 Armada, this worked perfectly and took like 2 min. Just crazy!!! C’mon Nissan/Infinity!!
Thanks for the video and detailed explanation!! I'm having the same problem with my 2015 QX80. I've replaced the battery a couple of times. Dealer said alternator was working fine.
I really appreciate you making this video. This solved my issue on a 2017 Armada. I've been left stranded several times because of a dead battery. Three batteries in 6 years and a jump starter pack is what I had gotten used to. I did this fix 4 weeks ago...ran all sorts of battery and charging test....works perfect now after all these years. Btw this did not affect gas mileage at all. Many thanks!!
Glad the video helped, thanks for sharing your experience. I appreciate it.👍
Jack, great informational video that solves a common problem that many of us have with our QX80's. I went through 4 batteries on my 2016, and now on my 2nd and almost 3rd on my 2019 if I hadn't come across this video. Instead of cutting the wire I was able to unpin the red wire from the connector to maintain the integrity of the wiring harness, I put a small section of heat shrink tubing over the end of the connector and slipped it back into the wire bundle to keep it looking stock and unmodified. Since you do such a great job with your videos perhaps you could create a 2nd video showing how to unpin the wire for those those would prefer not to cut. Thanks again for doing all the research and putting the video together!
Great idea William! Thanks for your comments, and I'm glad to hear the video helped. You are correct that this is a common issue and often kills batteries. The first time I replaced my battery, I just figured the previous owner had not maintained it well. Actually, the new battery did mask the problem for a while but with just a year or two of age, this VVCS problem presents itself again. It's fun to know that this video and comments like yours will help others. Thanks for sharing.
How were you able to unpin? Did you use a tool? Thanks
@@tdwilson0313 A tiny flat screw driver or dental pick can be used to release the contact locking pins. However, I just cut the wire because I won't need to reconnect it. On the odd chance there was a desire to reconnect, a simple butt splice connection can be easily crimped in place to repair the cut wire.
@@tdwilson0313 I am trying to think back now, but I believe that I removed 2 plastic cover pieces from the connector itself, and then from the front face of the connector used a dental pick to push down the locking tab on the metal connector while pulling on the wire. Then reinstalled the plastic cover pieces.
This worked perfectly! My voltmeter was below the halfway mark most of the time but now stays above half. I went through a battery in two months. Great video and glad I found it.
I'm glad you found the video as well. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Thank you so much. I've been going through about a battery a year on my 2017 Nissan Armada Platinum. I honestly thought that due to all the electronic devices and sensors this vehicle has, it just killed batteries for the fun. Once I start researching AGM batteries in the hopes that they will last longer. I start hearing about this VVCS issue that Nissan has. Upon further research, I found this video. And just as I tested it with a voltmeter, my battery was running at 12.3 with no charge. Now I'm getting the full 14.33V form my alternator. Thank you so much sir I really appreciate you. The best part is that my wife was already claiming to one another vehicle which would cost me thousands of dollars because she's already been stranded a couple times but now we're good to go you truly lifesaver.
I'm really glad to hear that your Nissan is working well now. Thanks for sharing your comments 👍
Thanks so much for this! On my 4th battery for a 2017 Armada and this most recent battery is starting to go after 5 months. Going to do this right away.
Wow! 4 batteries since 2017! That's a lot of batteries. I'm glad you found this video. Thanks for commenting.
The BEST actionable QX80 video on UA-cam, bar none!
Those are kind words, thank you.
Thanks for this. The same charging system is in place for all Nissan Titan, Armada and QX56. Another vid showed disconnecting the connector on the underside of the negative battery cable instead of cutting the wire completely.
You are correct that the VVCS is in other SUVs. It is also in other Nissan/Infinity sedans and crossover vehicles. The current sensor on the negative lead is discussed in several of these comments. You might be interested to read through them and see why I recommend not making that change. Thanks for sharing your comment. It's a good add, I appreciate it.
@@jackharding98 going on two years my plug has been disconnected at the battery on my `17 titan and no problems at all.
I appreciate this Video. Been an Auto Technician for Toyota for 17years. Bought a 2016 QX80 for the wife back in 21. Been dealing with intermittent dead battery or slow start. Replaced the battery couple months ago but still at times would notice a slow crank. Have had my wife have her battery be dead at home before work several times and she had to hook the charger up. After charge it starts fine every time. No load draw. So this makes perfect since. She makes a lot of short trips and I even noticed on a long trip the voltage would drop down to battery voltage while AC was on at times which is dumb. I de pinned the wire and taped it up..will see how it does. Seems to be a lot of Armada’s and Qx80s with this issue.
Thanks for commenting. As I dug into the diagrams and the design of this VVCS system, I learned it is in a lot of Nissan vehicles, not just our SUVs. My wife's around town short trips haven't changed, but she no longer suffers the same problems you also experienced.
Great video and great troubleshooting to figure out this issue. Where did you get the 3rd piece of paper in the video, showing the connectors and pin locations? I have a 2013 Nissan Quest and I am only getting 11V charging the battery. That is after the alternator and battery being replaced twice! The Quest has VVCS on it, and have had the same issues as other commentators. Need to find which connector is the right one to cut, please.
Say no more Mr Jack my wife car just now got the battery issue on her 2017 QX80 I’m now going to do what I just saw on ur video wish me luck 🍀 ❤
Did it work I own a 2017 qx80? Thx
Thank you! Have a 2016 qx80 limited as well and been having this issue. Going to do the mod! Cheers 🙏🏼
Much thanks for this info. I've been having the same issue since the purchase of a used 2019 QX80 a couple of months ago. My wife drives the car 8.6 miles to work and by the end of the week the battery will be too weak to start. On the second battery now and found this video. This 2019 QX80 IPDM wiring is a little different. We live in SW Georgia and we don't have annual inspections, so I wound up just disconnecting the battery current sensor instead. So far so good.
Glad you found this video and a solution for your Infiniti. The same red wire pin 33 applies to the 2019 QX80. It's the second pin from the end of the connector (just like in this video) and the only all red wire. Disconnecting the current sensor will also disable the VVCS, so that will help as you've seen. One drawback to that is that now your ECM doesn't know the battery status at all. So other features like automatic power off may not work.
I just picked up a 2017 Armada and the other day I was driving and my voltage gauge was showing low and I was like oh no bad alternator?? but it went back up later and so I wasn't sure. now I know it's the extra power management module in action and in the future I may just need to cut a red wire!! thank you
Congratulations on your new vehicle ! Drive the vehicle and see if you have a reoccurring dead battery before you cut the wire. No harm in cutting the wire in either case, but not everyone needs to.
@@jackharding98 definitely thanks - I will wait it out and see what happens but at least now I know what to look out for! really appreciate DIY videos like this, esp for the Gen 2 Armada/QX80 because there just isn't that much out there yet.
Our battery would not have enough juice to start the engine. Took the battery to get tested THREE different times and the battery wasn’t bad. Since this is my wife’s car it left her stranded multiple times needing a battery jump. I thought maybe bad alternator? Then I started watching the voltmeter in the dash . I noticed it would have variable readings including going below half mark while driving. I found your vid and clipped the wire . Now volt meter is steady and reads a steady above half mark. Been a week now and no dead battery! Thanks man !!
I wonder how much gas this was actually saving? Nissan #nissan needs this fixed asap !!
Great to hear you've solved your issue. Glad I could help, thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for making and posting this video. I have a 22 QX80 with the exact same low voltage charge indications. I disconnected that red wire amd bingo... full 14 volt charge indications at all times!!! This video saved me lots of aggrevation, time and possibly money! Thank you!
I'm glad to hear this video helped you. Thank you for sharing your experience on a 2022 QX80.
So I'm thinking the 2020 model year will be fine???
Were you worried about voiding the warranty due to this mod?
I have a 2022 QX and there is no red wire next to the green. Yours had a red wire?
Just saw your video today and I’m hopeful this will solve our problem with the battery dieing every year, thanks for the info!
I suspect it will help. Ours died frequently before. Since the fix, it has been 100% reliable for us onthe same battery.
These cars are too smart for themselves!😉😁
Jack, I have to thank you for this video. I've been dealing with my battery decharging for 3 years on my 2019 Armada. My local upstate NY dealer was clueless regarding this issue. I've been manually turning my lights on which seemed to increase the voltage to the battery for some reason, but not always. Today, I cut the wire and the voltage output is back to charging. Great job and thanks again!!
Thanks for commenting to the group. Sharing your experience helps others, so I appreciate it. You are correct that increased load actually helps your battery charge. The VVCS is designed to respond to a load. At initial startup, the alternator is commanded to produce charging current/voltage. However, it soon reduces the voltage and current to increase fuel efficiency, but a large demand, like headlights, can keep the system from changing to fuel efficiency mode. Therefore, your battery actually gets a better recharge even though you are using more electricity. It makes a lot of sense for the VVCS, but it's the opposite of what we would normally expect.
I have a 2019 armada as well but I am afraid because I have more wires than in this video. I don’t want to clip anything wrong. How did yours look? Can you send me a photo?
@magicmarcy32 Don't get confused with all the wires, you only need to identify pin 33, the red wire second from the end of the connector as shown in the video.
@@jackharding98 thank you!!!
on your 2019 Armada, are the wires and plugs the same as the Infiniti's in the video? I have a 2019 with the SAME issue.
Thank you. This is a clear explanation with just the correct amount of detail (for me).
Glad to hear the video helped, thanks for letting me know.
2017 Nissan Armada, Hi everyone I followed instructions for mine and it works, no more low charge battery issues. No other issues as well.
Glad it worked for you, thanks for sharing.
Can you tell me what color the wire was for you? I have the same vehicle and I pray that this is the solution that FINALLY keeps my wife from being stranded.
@@dropndealThank you - just wanted to double-check. Just clipped the wire and already seen a dramatic improvement!
I had this problem 4 months ago and cut the wire. now, i have had no issues with the battery or the altanator thanks to this trick. thank you for this video.
Thanks for the feedback, 👍
@jackharding98 I need advice, my car started dying on me when driving or wouldn't start at all, battery and alternator are good so towed it too a dealership to get looked at. They are saying it's the ipdm needs replaced. What do you think?
@nathanielmichael7721 Sorry I can't help with any good advice. I've not seen your vehicle myself, and I don't even know what type of vehicle it is. IPDMs control a lot of things. Your repair shop could be guessing or might be right. I'd ask what aspect of the IPDM is causing the failure and how sure they are about the repair. IPDMs are pretty expensive, a couple thousand, but remove and install would be pretty fast, less than an hour.
@@jackharding98 is it plug and play? Could I do it myself because they are asking a extra 400 to install it
@nathanielmichael7721 I have a video that shows the ipdm. It's 10 minutes to locate and unplug it. Very easy. What I don't know for sure is if anything has to be done with the Consul system (Nissan diagnostic software) to program or setup the IPDM. You can ask your service provider. One thing to think about, though, is if you do it, I'm sure they won't guarantee the part or the repair. So it might be worth having them do the job so they own the situation. That's your decision.
We just did it Hopefully, this fixes the problem.This does thank you so much
2019 qx80
Too battery in 6 months and always jumping it
Wife drives only 6 miles a day or so
Will update on fix soon Fingers crossed 🤞 ....to be Continued ...
Working 💪
Thank u so much I’ve been going through this problem for 3 years
Glad the video helped. Thanks for sharing.
100% agree with all of the comments! Thank you so much for this video!!! My 2017 QX80 had the same issue, as far as i know... I cut the wire today so we shall see but I am 99% sure this was the issue. This saved me many hours and $$$$ at auto mechanics!!! Thank you!!!
I hope your situation is solved now. Thanks for your comments.
Man I’m a master tech and I couldn’t figure out this problem on my Nissan. I think this should be a tech tip on All data or a service bulletin.
Thanks for your comments 👍. It puzzled me for a bit, too. Alternator always checked out fine, but battery would go dead after a while. I'm an electronics guy at NASA, so I dug into the system diagrams and figured it out. I'm glad the video helped you.
Thank you Jack !! I have a 2019 Armada and love my car. Yes, randomly it won’t start so nightly trickle charge and carry a battery booster pack to jump it off when stranded. It’s been ridiculous and embarrassing. I basically , at this point, have a nice car that is not dependable AT ALL. I am going to get husband to review this solution. Thank you thank you thank you !!!!
I know exactly what you're experiencing. It is embarrassing to have a great SUV and get left stranded. Before we made the change in this video, my wife carried a jumpstart pack, too. Not anymore.
Thanks Jack, really helpful for my qx80, i was on my second infiniti battery, lasted 1.5 years. Spoke to my guy Mo at my local infiniti, here in Golden Valley MInesota
And he basically said thesame thing you just explained, but also added Infiniti has a fix for the issue. So please contact your dealership. Apparently they have a device that does the regulation with your alternator. Hope this helps
That's interesting info on the "device that does regulation with your alternator" I'll call and see if I can learn more about it. I'm curious because the alternator actually has internal regulation (like all alternators do) and making this change doesn't take that away. So there isn't a need for another device. Thanks for the info and comment. 👍
Yes just found out about this a couple hour ago from my service guy at our local infiniti. So am going the onTuesday to get a new battery and this new solution or device install for $90. He also said after that your battery should last a long long time. Hope he is right, Will update result and fix later. Again thanks for your input@@jackharding98
Thank you so much. This was so very helpful.
I have been wrestling with this issue for a month now. My 2017 Armada's battery would start sluggish at times, and testing always showed needing recharging. Charging overnight restored the battery but it eventually lost sufficient charge to start again. I initially unplugged the cable on the negative side and have been driving the car with no issues. The dash meter now registers constant charging while the engine is running, unlike before when the needle would bounce back and forth. It still bothered me that other wires were disconnected with the plug, so I have done what you describe. Not at all difficult to follow your instruction. Thank you for sharing this video.
Thanks for sharing your experience. Unplugging the negative terminal current sensor plug is a good way to "test" if the VVCS is your problem. Leaving it disconnected does rob your ECM of data it wants, not really a big deal, but I agree with your approach to test, then modify. 👍
This seems to have worked for me! Thanks for saving me $$$!
Oh my gosh you saved us! It worked for me! Thank you!
A huge help. Much thanks !
Excellent!! Super easy to do and works perfectly. THANK YOU!!!!
Thanks for the positive response. 👍
I got tired of having my wife stranded due to a dead battery. I didn't expect her to need a jump box and cables in an 80k SUV. I just tried this and will respond and let you know how it worked.
Been a while, any follow up?
Thanks a lot for this video. This is an easy fix. Took me 5 min to do (and 5 min to search for my tools! ;)). Looks like it is working fine for my 2019 QX80.
I'm glad the video helped. You're right. It's pretty easy once you know what to do, and it's the best way to solve the problem (without compromising other systems). Thanks for sharing your comment.
Were you all having issues where the truck would not crank due to battery not being charged?
@mclaren19mg Yes, every few weeks the battery would go dead, since the alternator wasn't charging enough.
I followed in a 2018 Armada and the wire colors were the same but the red wire guage was much thinner than the one in your video
Thank you so much for this.
Your the GOAT. Appreciate it
Thank you, Jack!!! Well explained video of the root of the problem I certainly didn’t think of. After going through multiple batteries, semi-stranding my wife a couple times, and hoping not to replace the alternator, this was a simple, 2-minute, zero cost fix that totally fixed the issue! Thank you so much more taking the time to share. And do so so well!
Our '19 Armada has the same issue. Wife does lots of short trips in town with the kids and the truck would grumble to start sometimes and eventually left her stranded at costco. The battery tested fine as well as the alternator so we didnt get any work done under warranty. This situation left her untrusting of the car. Hopefully this will be the answer to our prayers for a more confidence inspiring automobile for her and my kiddos. Thanks!
Your story is the exact same as mine, I'm certain this video has your solution. I'm glad you found it. 🙂
I have a 2019 Armada that I love. I am so grateful to find this video. Saved me from car shopping. I will keep y’all posted if it works in our case.
Did snipping the wire make any changes. I also have a 2019 Nissan Armada with the exact same issue
Hello. What were the results of the change you made to your 2019 Nissan Armada??
@@lorenzosmith6718 followed the procedure here and have had no issues since the .
Cannot thank you enough for this. Thank you so much.
You just did thank me enough, and I really appreciate it. I hope you have a Merry Christmas.
Cool video, I just installed a simple charger in the cigarette lighter plug with voltage display, noticed mine starts at 14.4v, then sits at 12.8v unless I leave a lot of accessories on, then it increases the voltage. Pretty cool technology, not sure how much fuel it saves.
I agree that the design is a good idea. I like it too. The downside is if you have large accessorie loads or make a lot of short trips, then batteries aren't charged enough and they die quickly.
Jack, you saved me time and $$. I was able to get this done in five minutes.
This issue left my wife and kiddos stalled for about an hour in the South Texas Heat.
Totally appreciate it.
I'm glad it helped. Thanks for letting me know. I like hearing that these videos were useful.
Excellent video brother. Well done
Thank you. I appreciate your compliment. 👍
Just happened to me. Coldest day so far in Indiana. Truck wouldn’t start. Found this video during my first break. Hopefully I won’t see that issue again.
I hope this video was helpful. I would caution anyone not to confuse normal battery life and cold weather impacts to old batteries with the VVCS issue in this video. Cold weather is known to kill old batteries that are close to their end of service life, that's a different situation than frequent under charging due to a VVCS system. Although it's ok to disable VVCS even if it's not needed by your vehicle. Typically, it's only needed if you make lots of short trips.
Great video!
Thanks for the compliment, I appreciate it.
Excellent video. I was into my second battery on the wife's 2016. Couldn't figure it out. Thank you for posting.
Glad the video helped, thanks for sharing your comments.
I've been looking for a simple solution to this problem and your video is exactly what I needed. On many of the Infiniti / Nissan forums people are cutting the wire on the pigtail at the negative terminal of the battery. The location is difficult to access. Your solution is much preferred. Thank you!
One question that it's likely helpful to others, is the 2018+ circuit diagram the same?
Glad the video helped. I agree with you, The method I show is the best way to resolve the alternator issue. Disconnecting the negative lead (current sensor) can trick the ECM and BCM into a mode that causes the alternator to work the way we want, however it does that by preventing those modules from getting information that is used for other functions. That's not best for us or the vehicle. And as you point out, its more hassle to do correctly. As for newer vehicles, another person reported below in the comments that a 2019 was the same wire as this 2016.
@@jackharding98 I am having the same issue with a 2012 qx 56. Was wondering if the wirings are the same.
Thanks and hope to hear from you
@mangembusnalimbe778 yes this video works for you, I listed all the wire info in the video description for each model year. Read that info.
Oh wow, this sounds like my exact problem that the dealer can’t figure out or won’t tell me about. Please help… I have a 2015 Q50, where could I find the schematic or diagram for these wires? Thanks to you and/or anyone else that can help me with this. Sounds like your helping an enormous amount of people with this vid. Again thank you.
I find the schematics online through my local library. Chilton manuals provides access to a number of state library systems. You might check your library website for a link to the Chilton manuals.
@@jackharding98 thank you so much!
I looked up your diagram 2015 Q50. Your looking for connector E124 pin 71 which is a yellow wire. Your connector is the same size and shape as the QX80 but in a different place on the IPDM. It's a 12 position connector with only one wire (Beige) on the top row. Bottom row from left to right is empty, red, brown, yellow, pink, empty. You need to cut the yellow wire.
Great video and info. Why not just unplug the smart alternator plug from the negative terminal on the battery? Are there other functions that the smart plug controls?
The current sensor on the battery negative cable does perform a number of other functions. If you disconnect it, you'll impare the vehicle for battery draw.
Thanks
I just did this repair today, 2019 Infiniti qx80. Its my wifes kids car and its now dying all the time. Ive tried trickle charging it many times with no success as it dies again in a month or so. Dealership said to get a new battery but i knew that wasn't the issue. Hopefully this fix works. Ill report back.
Thanks for sharing your experience. 👍.
Jack thank you so much for your video. It was very helpful. To other viewers, 2021 Infiniti qx80, its the same wiring harness. Now I don’t have to worry about charging after every trip. I noticed since day 1 that there is something wrong with the car and it functions differently than others.
Glad the video helped, thanks for contributing to help others about the 2021 model year.
Hi Wally. I have a 2019 QX80 and I am going to cut the wire because I’ve had a dead battery twice in 3 months since I bought the car pre-owned in December. Was the wire red? Is it basically the same procedure as Jack shows in this video? Thanks for your help.
@fender8885 Others have confirmed the wire color and details are the same as my video for models 2017 to 2221.
Great thank you Jack.
@@jackharding98 jack do i disconnect the gray wire from the negative pole of the connector for battery after i cut the red wire?
Thank you very much!!
@@digitalwayanenetwork1056 You're welcome 😊
This is it! I've been so frustrated by my randomly dead 2018 QX80. Questions I have - first, does cutting this wire void warranties? Does cutting the wire impact my trading it in later (value/legal stuff/anything)? And lastly, advice on finding someone willing to do this if both my husband and I are too afraid. 🤓
First, don't be afraid. You can do this. Just watch the video and follow along. As for your other questions, I am not your authority on that, so you'll have to decide for yourself. However, this mod doesn't cause a failure code or cause any problems, so no one will know you've made the change. Instead of cutting the wire, you could use a little tool to unpin the wire from its connector. That way, you could reinstall it later if you want.
Very well explained
@@justinhorrell2251 Thanks for watching. 👍
Related to a 2018 qx80, I am trying to troubleshoot why my screen is not working but can be seen while the shifter is in reverse and cameras can be seen. I have also noticed the usb ports charge and drop out just like the screen. Have also tried replacing the Dcu with no luck. A electrical schematic/ diagram may help me out here. Any ideas?
Also seen that you can unplug the grey connector on the negative battery post and it does the name thing
Not exactly the same thing. Cutting the wire only impact the PWM signal for VVCS. Disconnecting the negative lead impacts the current sensing circuit which essentially lies to the IPDM & ECM. That can impact more than just alternator charging.
Thank you
Your welcome, I hope the video was helpful. Thanks for commenting.
Thank you very much. Worked on my 2011 qx56.
Exelent!!!
Hello and thanks for the explainer.. How would this differ in outcome than unplugging the device around the negative terminal? Ive got an Altima SR3.5 with this and I need to come up with a solution today as my car didnt start last night and my Alternator likes to get stinky electrically
Your question is a popular one, I've explained it a number of times in the comments. The difference is that cutting the wire for VVCS ( as shown in this video) impacts only the VVCS. Disconnecting the negative lead (current sensor) impacts the engine control module and body control module. The impact to those modules will give you the desired result of better alternator charging but it does it by tricking both control modules which impacts other functions of your vehicle. That's not a deal breaker for some people, but it isn't a clean way of resolving the problem. If you respond with the year of your altima, I might be able to find the VVCS wire that relates to your car. This us a common issue with Nissan/ Infinity.
Thank you so much.
Your welcome, thanks for your comments.
@jackharding98 no problem. That advice really alleviated a lot of frustration for my wife and I. I think the dealers are covering up the fact that this is a design flaw.
Excellent video!!
Thanks👍🙏👌
Got a question. We have a 2018 Nissan Armada.
Having the same battery issue.
What if i just unplug the sensor from the negative battery cable, and tape it up.
Would that work?
Or i may just try to do what just explained.
Also, if i do it my way, will i have to plug that sensor back in, when i take it in for emissions each year🤔
Just curious.
Thx
I'm glad the video was helpful. Thanks for your comments. Your question is answered already in the comments of this video, hopefully you found it already. If not, The short answer is unplugging the current sensor you're asking about will work, but it's not the same solution as this video. My solution is not related to emissions, so no worries there, I don't think the current sensor is either, but I can't answer that one 100%.
@jackharding98 My 2022 Armada doesn't have that wire. Could they have removed it from the factory? I'm still having the same issue so I'm going to unplug the cable next to the battery. 😊
Anybody know where this wire is on a 2021 QX80?
EDIT: It was in the same place as shown in the video...at least it all looked the same. I clipped the wire, charged the battery and the alternator is putting out 14.36 volts. Thanks for making this video!
I am so glad that I found you. This is been driving us nuts maybe you could help me out as well. My husband is a life time mechanic and has always done cars. My headlight is out there is no power to the Balis and we have looked at diagram, schematics everything for the fuse that would charge the ballast. Do you have any help for me? I would appreciate it the Lord bless you thank you.
I'm glad you found the video. I'm sorry I don't have any specific experience with the headlight. I would do what it sounds like you are doing, first check the fuse, then verify power in the connector at the light, then test the light. If one side is working, I'd use it as a reference.
does anybody know if infiniti has changed the (VVCS/IPDM) in the later models so that this is no longer a problem
After the 5th or 6th battery in our 2019 and Nissan finally tired of giving away batteries they finally are letting dealers disable this. Took ours in today and they removed pin 33
I have a 2017 qx80 and the connector wires are different than the video. Is the red wire still the one to cut even if it is in another location on the connector? Can you tell me where you got the the wiring and pin out documents?
I got the documents from my local library online. Chilton tech manuals are offered to many state library systems. I Don't have access to 2017 diagrams though. 2016 is the latest version available to me. Another comment here said his 2019 was the same as 2016, you might take another look at yours.
@jackharding98 Curious for your thoughts on this. On our 2017 Armada, we didn't experience any battery-related problems until around 120,000 miles. After that, we began having poor starting and dead battery problems monthly. I've been wondering what could have happened for the problem to take this long to emerge compared to other's experiences. While I'm extremely grateful for your workaround (and it's probably not even a workaround but rather a restoration to a normal alternator operation), do you think the real culprit could be the battery sensor beginning to operate outside of its allowed range? Perhaps as the battery sensor fails, it begins to send bad data back to the ECM which in turn is sending bad information to the alternator (garbage in, garbage out). I've seen some other sites where the users tried to shield the current sensor from stray currents with mixed results, but an out-of-spec current sensor due to aging might be giving the ECM the wrong guidance. Again, great video!
We began to notice our charging issues about two years after replacing the battery (aprox 80K miles). We purchased our 2016 QX80 at 60K miles. My wife's short trips and the VVCS were killing her battery because it never got a good charge. So, in your case, I'd suspect an older battery or shorter trips may be causing you to notice the problems. I haven't studied any problems with the current sensor, so I'm not the best source of info on that. I have studied its function though, and its job is to report current draw from the battery to the ECM AND BCM. I wouldn't think it would cause a battery problem. If it wasn't doing its job, then the VVCS wouldn't function, which would actually help and not hurt. That's why some people disconnect the current sensor to disable the VVCS. The problem there is that they also disable all other functions that the ECM AND BCM use the data for. One of those features, for example, is to automatically shut off accessories when the ECM senses the battery getting low.
I had the same thought and I tried to find somewhere to purchase a new current sensor. Seems as though they don’t offer them for sale anywhere that I looked.
I'm having the same issues with a 2020 and I'm thinking of "cutting the cord". Has anyone had issues after they made the cut? The wiring harness appears the same on the 2020. I'm frustrated with dead batteries!
You are correct that this video and info is applicable to your 2020. My QX80 has been modified now for several months and I no longer have dead a battery. Prior to the mod, I would have to recharge with a battery charger about every 5 weeks. Cutting the wire, only impacts the VVCS battery charging, nothing else.
I've been through 4 interstate batteries, interstate is fed up and refusing to warranty the battery again. I hope this works
I hope it solves your issue as well. That's a bummer to go through that many batteries.