Mazda FN4AEL Teardown
Вставка
- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- In this video i teardown a FN4AEL out of a mazda. In fords the transmission is called 4F27E. After the unit is apart i go through the pump and clutch drums, also i.d the solenoids and talk about common problems.
Valvebody video coming soon - Авто та транспорт
Gary, guys like you are becoming a lost art. This will be very educational for the younger generations. Thank you for sharing and keeping up the good work! Subbed for new videos.
Appreciate the video and breakdown. I've got a 1st gear shudder on mine when accelerating from a stop and a clunk that can be felt and heard when it shifts from 3rd to 4th under acceleration conditions (if just cruising at a set speed the clunk won't happen). It also likes to fall back to 3rd more often than usual but I'm not sure if that's just in my head and I'm noticing gear changes now more than I was before. No codes. Had a fluid change about 9k miles ago and they noted nothing of interest in the pan.
Will be taking it to get serviced soon, hopefully it won't break the bank.
You sure do make this look easy. lol. But, we all know it is a very daunting task to rebuild an automatic. Manual trans is deinately easier. Great video and very informative. Thank you.
I love these videos I could probably rebuild any transmission out there between you and Hiram
+Tony Mikesell Thanks tony. Thank you for watching and please subscribe. Any questions you may have just let me know. Gary
Amazing video ... you really know your stuff .
Thanks for watching
Thank you for The upload.
+StealthShadow5 Thanks for wayching. Please Subscribe. Gary
One of my dreams is to meet you in person before I leave this world.. Cus you're my Role model and Teacher, even though we're thousands of miles away. The universe shall bring us together someday.. Thank you Gary! 😍
Where are you located?
Hi have one of these just bought at auction with 54k Miles has no reverse no 3 or 4th gear fluid is clean no codes any idea what might be problem could be?
Mr Gary
YOUR AMAZAING
I have a Mazda 3, year 2017, it seems the same transmission, I changed the filter. I have a problem, it kicks me when I go on a highway, it speeds up or when I reverse. Is it possible that it is the solenoid valves that advise me to replace the solenoid first?
Gary you are the men .! I press thumbs up 10 times, still thinking your channel will be much more awesome if you show how to diagnose a bad transmission .! thanks for make this videos .!
+john CR Thanks for the input, next week i will have a video on a honda diagnosing a solenoid problem. Gary
awesome , cant wait to watch it.!!
+john CR Thanks john, have a great day
Gary Ferraro im 100% sure its the tcm a friend of mine came over with his scan tool and we got 3 codes now.. p0720, u2064 but now p0894.. i searched fs5a p0894 and it have some promising info that leads to a bad tcm
Is the definition of P0894- Transmission slipping?
Great video, thank you.
Thanks for watching
Gary, thanks for the comprehensive teardown. I'm not an ATX specialist so I'd like to respectfully ask you opinion. For a long time, I have been doing full fluid drains and flushes by dropping/draining pan, refilling, and then disconnecting inlet from cooler at ATX, idling and using ATX to pump out 1-2 litres of old fluid, stopping, refilling, repeat once or twice till fluid runs clean. Very common procedure I think. However, I've also been told that the first thing the oil lubricates on re-entering tranny is the front and/or rear bearings, and therefore I am running bearings dry for the time I'm disconnected. My thought has been that, at idle, and for total running time of perhaps 3-4 minutes over maybe 2 times, this is not issue. Since you are specialist, I'm keen to hear your view. Never had an issue.
Regards
Alex
Well, I never like to have anything run dry, when they do it may produce heat, which is bad for a transmission, you may not have an issue but it may shorten the life of the transmission, if your running this till it runs out of fluid, the pump is running dry as well, also there are numerous bushings throughout the transmission that need to stay lubricated. In my opinion i would not let the trans run dry. Gary, Thanks for watching and Greetings from New York.
@@GaryFerraro Very much appreciate the input and advice Gary. thanks!
@@alexmessina7652 Your Welcome.
Great tutorial.
you tear it down but no reassembling living someone like me in limbo
can you please share the reassembly video ?
thank you.
Another great video!! Where do you buy your build tables? We have one at work, but I want one for home and can't find that style anywhere? Thanks again
Im honestly not sure, my dad bought these 25 years ago but not sure from who, have you looked in the northern catalog?
Question I got a F4A-EL I put it into any gear and it don’t move couldn’t be any sensors or anything like that before I tear this tranny apart?
my 04 focus has chatter ans a slip going into reverse only , is that the low reverse clutch pack next to side cover or the larger low reverse clutches behind the sun gear deeper in the trans and do u have to remove trans to get those deeper ones out cause there was a clip u hammered out the pump side to release sun gear on the side cover side
Very well could be the reverse clutch right behind the cover. The low reverse clutch is on in reverse and also manual one, see if you get a slip in manual one, if not may be the reverse clutch behind the cover, check the ring lands on the cover as well if you pull the cover off
What an awesome video. I have a 2010 Mazda CX-9 I am working on, just the other day I was toping off the transmission fluid and soon after the transmission now makes a rattling sound similar to two pipes clanking together when I rev the rpms in reverse and drive and while the rpms are decelerating and I noticed it more pronounced in reverse. Any input on what this might be? Thank you very much
not really sure, but i would check the mounts. all you did was add fluid?
It's great that you show us how to take it apart but can you make video showing us how to put it back together that would be really cool
Will keep that in mind, thanks for watching
@@GaryFerraro have you made one yet lol
@@Devo1987 I haven't had any of those units yet
thank you very much
Gary I have a question I rebuilt my 4f27e and it keeps leaking from the bell housing could you give me any advise
Mike Larsen in the overhaul kit they give you 2 different o ring seals for the pump. Are you sure you used the correct one
Hey Gary, your video is very useful. I have a 2004 Mazda 3 with the 2.0 motor, 4 speed automatic transmission. My AT light comes on and goes away, some days I'll start the car and it will run fine, others I start it and take off and the car instantly shift to 2nd then 3rd but won't go into 4th. I killed the car, while coasting in neutral at about 15mph, restarted it and drove it to a friends. Shut it off, went to start it and all I got was a high pitched whine, replaced the starter and now the car starts but has a lound grinding noise. What do you think it could be?
Was the high whine noise in all gears? park, rev and drive? did it change with engine rpm? Do you know if any codes are present for the trans
Big thumbs up Gary, love it! Do you know if this is the same trans in the 2007 2.3 CX7? Going to do a full engine rebuild on my wife's car and considering rebuilding the trans while I'm at it, over 150k.
And yes, already subbed when I was rebuilding my 4L60E.
Todd
Annapolis, MD
The Mazda actually a 6 speed trans in it. the video is of the speed trans
Hello Gary I have a 2002 Mazda protege5 when I take off from a stop it feels like something is holding the car back from going and then when it shifts to 2nd it like pulses picking up speed you can feel it lightly dose this in all gears but it shifts normal no codes fluid doesn't smell burnt. Thats the best way I can explain it.
sounds like it may be in limp mode, have you had it scanned for codes
Hey Gary im working on a 4f27e removed the valve body to replace the solenoid wire harness reinstalled everything but found that shifter is stuck in park cant put in other gear. Wondering what's the issue?
Maybe the shift lock solenoid is not releasing, check to see you have brake lights
Gary I have a code saying Selenoid b c stuck open the trans is in limp mode ! Goes from first to third no second or fourth gear
Would you recommend replacing selenoids and valve body or do a complete overhaul
You have a problem with the band which works 2 and 4th, a very common issue causing this problem is the bonding come off the piston causing it not to apply, the computer is blaming the solenoid thats why the code shows up. any code you see that shows "stuck on" or stuck off" is a performance code meaning an issue inside the trans
Sir Garry,,, thanks for the video , its helps a lots for me, just a beginner on automatic transmissions,,, kindly, give me some tips on the fnr5 mercury milan 2006, hard shifts on 2rd and 3rd and sometimes 4th.. thanks a lot.. i appreciate alot your kind reply....
Do you have any codes present? how are the engagements from park to drive and reverse?
Yes sir..theres alot of engine codes...the Maf and air leakage on intake manifold...the runner solenoid was stock on OPEN
Theres shift shocks on 2nd and 3rd gear...others was smooth
Ok, As a test, record the codes you have, clear them, clear all codes and drive the car see if anything changes, with codes present it may elevate line pressure.
Hi thank you for your video and for what you do. I'm working on this model right now from a Mazda 5. Since I needed to replace some solenoids I took the valve body out and I did a shift kit. What's your opinion on those. It had a different style accumulator for the one that usually get stuck in the boar. And some different rate springs for some of the valves.
The unit I have to go in the car came from a pulling page junkyard so I hope it's okay. But the one that I'm removing from the car I would like to rebuild myself and put back in the car.
I did a couple of Transgo shift kits in these units, most of the time i do not use them but it certainly can't hurt@@chrisolson6444
Hi Gary, I appreciate the video! I have a question for you about the 4F27E transmission in my 08 Ford Focus. When shifting into drive when the transmission and engine are at operating temperature it engages pretty hard. When everything is cold it us smooth as one would expect. All the engine, transmission and torque mounts have been replaced as well as having clean fluid, filter and the transmission otherwise performs normal. Any advice on what would cause this? Thanks again for the excellent video.
How is reverse? and the upshifts? any codes?
@@GaryFerraro Reverse and other shifting is great...only a harsh engagement when shifting to drive from park or reverse when it's at operating temperature. When cold it's fine and gentle.
@@bolin03 This year should have an EPC(Electronic Pressure Control) Solenoid, May have a problem with that solenoid or possible valvebody Problem
HI Gary. I'm trying to get my little brothers 2003 Mazda Protege DX road ready. He's a new drive and just turned 18. I took it for a test drive and immediately noticed that it wouldn't initially engage into 1st gear. I would have to rev up the motor a bit then it would hard shift into 1st. Also experienced blinking OD light and wasn't engaging past 3rd gear I believe. It did shift smoothly after the 1st hard shift into 1st gear. When we would slow down to make a turn we would lose the gear and again either not be engaged until we reved the motor and It when then again proceed to hard shift into gear. I just bought a scanner for scanning the transmission and going to check it out in a few days. I don't live at the same household. I would love any suggestions you may have. I would even pay you for your time to talk over the phone because I know your time is valuable.
Sounds like you may have 2 problems, 1- sounds low on fluid. 2- sounds like 3rd clutch is burnt out. If it is low on fluid, fill it and drive the car see if anything changes. Let me know what codes you have
Thank you Gary for taking the time to write back. I will let you know as soon as I pull the codes. And will check the fluid. Thank you. 🙏 @@GaryFerraro
buena tarde amigo tengo un problema que la reparado y no funciona reversa bien aplica en gray y primera cuando bajo a primera no me hace el cambio de primera a segunda y en gray, y no tiene fuerza el un Mazda Demio dos mil dos. a ver si me puede ayudar.
Hey Gary. Just stumbled across your channel. Glad I did! I have a quick question, not sure if you will even see this as the video is now a few years old, but I have a 2003 Ford Focus 2.3L with the 4F27E Automatic Transmission in it. I got the car for $100 and it was basically abandoned and used for storage and sat in a field for a few years. The problem that it is currently having is when I shift into reverse, the car doesn't move, it will move if you give it a decent amount of throttle and you can feel it slipping. When you shift it into Drive, 1st gear feels normal, but when it shifts into 2nd Gear, it seems like it goes to neutral and you have to let off the gas and it will slam into 2nd gear. I'm not too sure about 3rd and 4th gear yet as the car is registered as Non-Operative currently so I have to sneak out at night to test it. I will test it tonight and let you know. I did some research and found quite a few people having the same problem, and they needed to replace the Reverse Clutch Drum(Due to Grooving and Burnt Friction and Steels) and The 2nd/4th Intermediate Band(Due to it being Broken) and it alleviated the issues. In your experience/opinion, do you think that could be my situation? If so I plan to remove the back cover and replace both of those and most likely the friction and steels on the 3rd Gear Drum also while I'm in there for good measure. I'm trying to fix it on a budget, although Budget and Transmission should never be used in the same sentence. I will use quality parts. The transmission shop quoted $2100-$2500 to do a rebuild. Which is more than the car is worth :( I'm hoping you see this. If you have any input, I would greatly appreciate it!
Hello,
Very possible that is your problem, band could also be worn or burnt out, that reverse drum grooving is fairly common, once you pull off the back cover, everything is right there. let me know what you find once the cover is off, 3rd clutch drum is there too
Don't rebuild. A rebuild doesn't correct existing problems. Get a remanufactured warranty, just a bit more, but worth it. I got a Road Ripper 1000 from Certified Transmissions (Transtar #48-EANC-1000) $3,500, waited 4wks to build but rated for snow plows and 4k lbs towing capacity over stock. 3yr/100k mile warranty on parts & labor too.
hi Sir. Tnx for this great video... please make video for solenoids block ( Teardown )for mazda 3 2008. 🥰🖐👏👍
Do you have the 5 speed trans? id so solenoids are the same just renamed for the 5 speed
Hi. I have Mazda demio 2006 model. It has the same transmission which you are showing. My car transmission is having problem. It jerks very bad on reverse mode. When driving shifting is perfect but when speeding reducing It again jerks. Tell me what should I do. Here in our country there are no experts for such issues. I avoid going in inexperienced hands. Kindly update what can be the fault. Thanks
can you tell me if any codes are present
Hi Garry I have a 2004 Mazda3 with the 2.3 engine and automatic transmission. What transmission is use in this car?
That trans should be the 4F27E
Hey gary recently i changed ATF of this transmission and next day AT light started blinking.after about 10 mins drive when i switch on the car AT light goes off.when i scanned i got P0745 .so i replaced the pressure solenoid and now its fine.my question is ,just changing ATF could cause to malfunction or stuck a solenoid ?
Can you give me the year make and model of your car
@@GaryFerraro its a mazda familia jdm version of protege .year 2000
Great video, I have a an 08 Mazda5 the transmission shifts very hard in the last speed ( shifts soft when Tranny is cold) Any ideas what could be wrong (Changed fluid no change)
are there any codes present?
@@GaryFerraro Similar problem as above, but mazda 3. I was watching your channel for fun, but if you have any additional insight I would appreciate it. P0841 is my error code. "P0841: Transmission Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch “A” Circuit Range/Performance"... I had no problems with this car, and mileage very low (100k). Transmission fluid changed twice over it's life span. Let me know if you think that's the pressure switch or possibly something more?
@@analysise1479 Could be from a pressure switch to a transmission, If you drive the car does it shift ok
@@GaryFerraro Appreciate the reply! Yeah it was hard shifting for a bit, it seems to be okay now, hasn't hard shifted for 3 days... Very variable occurrences of the issue.
hello Gary. my 04 mazda automatic 2.3 oil line from transmission busted and it woundt move in any gear. after I fixed the line and added trans oil it started running only on 1st gear. after a mile it woundt move no more. I was wondering is what could be the problem? thank you
May have done damage to the clutch packs running it low on fluid, how many quarts did you add, did the trans have a burnt smell to it?
Gary Ferraro added 6 quarts. idk a little smoke came out. when it ran out oil
Just to confirm, the car holds in park and does not roll in park? This would tell me that your axles are ok and probably something internal to the trans. 6 quarts is a lot for this unit, doesn't hold much more
Gary Ferraro no won't move when parked Gary. I kept adding oil thinking it would fix it. thanks Gary I assumed it was the clutch also.
At this point trans may have to come out, Where are you located?
The anchor bolt to the band, do you need a special tool? Or can you just tighten the bolt to it's torque? Thank you in advance
Just tighten to torque spec
@@GaryFerraro Ok Thanks
Are those Transgo shift kits any good for these valve bodies?
They are ok to use, i used one once, helped on a TCC issue
Hi Gary,
I have a FN5AEL in a mazda 6. I have no forward or reverse after removing/reinstalling engine. Engine RPMs drop when I put it in gear (as they should) but car does not move. I ensured TC was properly seated and bolted to the flywheel (and both spin when engine is running). No check engine or AT lights. I'm assuming the pump has gone out (trans has 175kmi). any ideas?
Does the car hold in park? if not look at the axles. Check the fluid level, if the level shows its overfull, possible pump issue
yes holds in park. Axles are rebuilds. Fluid is a little high (measured with engine running), I replaced the oil pump/TC seal (had a small leak from the flywheel/Tc "view hole" prior to teardown. no leaks now). replaced all the shift solenoids and inspected the valve body. could a bad solenoid be a culprit? or the pump like I assume?
There is nothing common thats on in foward and reverse, one more thing i would like for you to try, unplug the trans connector and see if the car moves. very possible pump issue though, it moved before you did the work correct? Any codes? Sorry for late reply, shop is busy
I was finally able to tear the car down and put it back together. replaced the pump (30k mi unit w/ new O ring and TC seal). No codes at all. Axles move with the wheels off and the car off the ground (front on jack stands) but not when the car is on the ground. could the angle alter the line pressure enough to get it to work or something? Trans fluid is to the top line on dipstick w/ engine running. Could an issue with the differential/final drive cause this? Are they a wear item like clutches? which Trans connector? The range switch the shift linkage connects to?
Would you happen to know where shift solenoid F is located? I get a code of p2709
What is the year,make and model, engine size too
Hi Gary, i have a 2000 mazda mpv 307xxx k. I have a similar problem with a previous comment. Transmission is only operating in 3rd gear and reverse. I can get into 1st gear manually. I have the code P0755 shift solenoid b malfunction. Would this be the bands as well and not the solenoid itself?
P0755 is an electrical code, if you clear the code it comes right back? could be a bad solenoid
@@GaryFerraro yes, the code comes right back. I removed the valve body to test resistance. All solenoids shows 17ohms which is in range. I don't know if this is an accurate test. I am leaning towards replacing the solenoid. However even Mazda could identify which is solenoid b on the diagram.. Would it be safe to assume shift solenoid a=(1-2) b=(2-3) c=(3-4)?
@@sallyhirose8830 Do you have a bottom pan and a side cover pan on this trans? Where is the car located?
hi my name is Andre Gary am working on a Mazda primacy 2011 the a.t light keep coming up wat going on
For the light to keep coming on, there has to be a trouble code present, have the car scanned to see what code is coming up.
I have a problem with 4F27E FOCUS MK2. Sometimes, when I shift from P to R or D, there is (sometimes) a smaller or larger impact when the oil is hot. What is there to do? mechanism or solenoid? The gearbox is supposedly rebuilt, but made by the Chinese. Before replacing the gearbox, I had the same symptom
was this scanned for codes?
@@GaryFerraro Yes, there are no errors
have you checked the axles and mounts@@ha48124
@@GaryFerraro the left axle shaft was replaced, the right one is functional. Engine and gearbox mounts replaced. The suspension seems to be stiff. But the engine visibly rises when you move the lever
Hi Gary, i'm new to your channel but great videos! I'm having an issue with a 2001 Mazda Protege with the FN4AEL, wont shift into second, O/D light comes on and starts flashing. PO732 code gets stored. I know it had at least one service within the last 5 years before i bought it. Was owned by an elderly lady since new and i know it was never driven hard or abused and I don't either. Just normal. I did a service six months ago with no problem until now. Nothing in fluid or pan that indicated internal damage and fluid was nice and clean, still very pink and minor sludge on magnet. I had a sticking solenoid but changed all of them with new because they came in a set but didn't solve problem. Fluid was still clean when drained the second time. Would you have any advice on where to look before a removal and teardown? Much appreciated!
Car has just under 150K on it.
@@jimking3097 Hello Jim,
What may be happening is the bonding may be coming off of the servo piston that applies the band how is the 3-4 shift? Also there is no adjustment for the band but it does have an anchor bolt, it's not common but make sure the bolt is not loose or backed out, bonding coming off the piston is more common. Gary, Please Subscribe
@@GaryFerraro Yep already subcribed and Thanks so much for the help. Once the O/D light starts flashing it seems to shift and drive but only up to a certain speed, maybe around 30-50 kms (I'm in Canada) so i'm not sure if its getting into 3rd or if it is then going to 4th. Was hoping it'd be something external ha ha but I will dig into it and see what I can find.
@@jimking3097 The P0732 Means gear ratio error in 2nd, does it make a 1-2 shift or maybe a soft 1-2 shift
@@GaryFerraro When you accelerate from a stop, the speedometer barely moves but rpm revs up to about 3000 or a bit higher and the O/D light comes on right away and flashes. after that it will drive (not smoothly) but no faster than about 30-40 kms. feels like more like its in low gear if that makes sense. not much power and rpms rev up if you try to accelerate more. Reverse works fine. Ive tried turning off the O/D with the button on the shifter before and after it happens too but no difference.
Hi Gary, I'm having issues with my 2009 Mazda 3 2.0L engine 4-speed transmission. I am getting code p0756 shift solenoid b stuck off/closed and a/t light on. Car exhibits rough shift into reverse and only 2nd and 3rd gear. I have replaced the filter and fluid. Tested all solenoids. Replaced the entire valve body with one from salvage yard. I still get the same codes and symptoms. The weird thing is if I clear the code and at light with scanner or disconnecting the battery, the transmission shifts perfect for a while until codes come back. I do not have a tcm under the battery as I thought this would be the problem. Could it be the ecu as the tcm is integrated with the ecu on my model or does it sound like the transmission needs to be replaced. The other thing that is weird, there was no issues with this transmission until I hit a pothole and then noticed after stopping at the next light that it upshifted rough. I have maintained the transmission very well over the years and used top quality Redline ATF. I did have a transmission shop look at it and they were baffled as well. They had it for a couple days and after the first day of testing they were leaning towards it being the computer. After testing and driving it some more on the next day they leaned toward it being an internal transmission problem, but could not say for 100%. Any insight would be appreciated. I have a salvage transmission lined up but I may replace the ecu with a rebuit one. Any thoughts
That code is an internal problem, You may have a bad clutch pack or band, solenoid usually is never the problem though the computer blames the solenoid, you have an internal issue.
Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. Do you recommend a complete overhaul/rebuilt of my current transmission or pursue the auto wrecker option that has a 2007 transmission with around 108,000 km on it.@@GaryFerraro
Hi Gary, is it possible it could be the ECU? I know there is history on these vehicles with the TCM and on this particular model it is integrated with the ECU.@@GaryFerraro
that is a mechanical code, i would say not the TCM@@user-im7cs1nl6f
Got a question for you hope you can help. Got the same transmission it shifts hard only coming out of first in to second. Don’t do it all the time but enough to where it’s definitely not normal. Will do it no matter if the transmission is cold or warm. Never trips a code. Someone told me it might be the accumulators broken spring I pulled it apart no broken springs know scored cylinder walls where accumulators are cleaned all valves on valve body. Always change transmission fluid every year great filter cleans fluid. Another person said it might be stuck in high pressure mode not sure what that means. Hope you can give me some tips. Thanks
How is the shift? does it seem drawn out with a bump at the end, like a slide/bump shift?
Gary Ferraro I would say yes and it seems to do it when you lightly accelerate if you accelerate hard It don’t seem to do it at least I don’t notice it
@@chesterm5378 on the 1-2 shift, the band is coming on, the bore for the apply pin likes to wear out, i usually sleeve them and the bonding on the piston sometimes comes apart as well. Are you a pilot?
Gary Ferraro i’ll have to research it not sure what you’re talking about to do. Yes I’m a pilot
Know all about motors new to transmissions
Hai could you just tell me whats the exact ATF to be used with this gear box and ATF change interval in KM's pls?
Regular KM units, could take Dextron 3 and i would say every 15K
Some say its only mazda mv atf
when it comes to the accumulator pistons one has a thick spring and one has a thinner spring which one goes where???
Does one have 2 springs and the other just one spring?
@@GaryFerraro no one has a thick spring with a long spring inside of it onehas a thin spring with a shirt spring inside of it i already found the answer to this question though.... the accumulator with the thick and long spring goes towards the bellhousing
@@dennisarnett6291 ok, was going to check my manual in the morning, thanks for the update
Maybe you can give me a bit of insight, I have this same transmission in 2 cars, 1 has 1st and 2nd much like this trans and the other goes through all the gears fine but it has to warm up in gear for about 30 minutes, any ideas on what would cause these, I'm going to have to Frankenstein these together to make it work because I can justify spending 3k at mazda to replace it when the car isn't worth that much. any info will be greatly appreciated and thank you for the awesome video
Andrew Miller the car that doesn't shift. Any codes
Gary Ferraro the car with no 3rd or 4th shoes p0733 unfortunately I have no way to check the other trans as my computer won't scan it
Gary Ferraro what do you think would cause the excessive warmup time, I have both transmissions on the bench and I know I can make 1 halfway decent trans out of the 2, just curious what you think might be doing it
Does it stay in first until it warms up? any chance you have a scanner that shows live data for the trans?
Gary Ferraro it actually won't move at all until it's warmed up, if you try moving before that it jumps into limp mode until it's fully warmed up, and it wont warm up in park or neutral, it actually has to be in gear with the e brake on for it to cooperate, and no scanner sadly
How many miles were on it and did they ever do a service before (I know you mentioned they did one after the failure) this failure occurred ? Thanks in advance
I'm thinking maybe 80K on this unit
@@GaryFerraro Oh wow that's nothing for it to fail like that. Thanks for the response!
@@ImranMughal-ju1wk Welcome, thanks for watching
Hi Gary, Thank you for such great videos, been watching for a while and just subscribed. My daughters Mazda 3 has a PO762 code. I know it refers to the shift solenoid but the solenoid controls the reverse gear also, and the car is fine in reverse. When driving in Manuel mode or Regular Drive mode, as soon as it tries to shift into 3rd I get the AT Light on dash and then Trans tries to shift again into 4th and doesn't hook up and just revs like it's in neutral. What do you think? I've been told to replace the Direct Clutch(Direct Drum 3-4) and the 2-4 Brake Band. Any opinion? Trying to do it on a budget and may leave trans in vehicle if at all possible. Where should I look for parts, Ive been told to find a "Fully loaded Direct Clutch. Thank you for any help you can provide.
Can you give me the year and engine size please. Thanks for subscribing
@@GaryFerraro It's 2004 4 door. Just under 160,000 miles. I think it has the 2.0, and I'm verifying as I type this. Pretty sure it's the FN4A-EL Transmission.
It's a 2.0
@@smugdoug Ok, yes that is the trans, If you have a problem with 3rd, the clutch is probably gone because the ring land may be worn out on the rear support. This code is a mechanical code and the computer blames the solenoid
@@GaryFerraro What do you think my solution is? Is it possible to just replace the Direct Clutch and Brake Band? Never been inside a Auto Trans, only Manual, so I 'm trying to prepare as much as I can before getting into a mess. And can I leave Trans in Car?
Is the FN4AEL made by Jatco or Mazda?
The Trans i think is actually made by ford, it's called a 4F27E
Hi Gary,
Do you have the part number & where did you purchase?
which part?
How hard is it to rebuild at home a 4F27E on a 2006 mazda 3s automatic with a rebuild kit from online ? ive done timing chains / lifters / valve stems / transmission valve bodies scale 1 thru 10 10 being hardest
Well, Transmissions is a class all by itself, this one is not that bad to do. i would say 6 or 7 if you have a manual on this unit you should be fine, fairly easy to do
@@GaryFerraro thanks man A+ video
@@Devo1987 Thanks Devo
I have a 2005 Mazda 3 2.0L. I wonder if the transmission is the same. I think it sheared the parking pin. Is that hard to fix? It won't lock the trans in park and 1st gear is really hard to get into. 1st gear is impossible to shift into.
Great video!
yes, it is the same, you should probably drop the pan and check the axles too
@@GaryFerraro thanks for the reply. where are the axles and will I be able to see the parking pin? Or pawl I believe it's called.
@@oxygen454 There is a left and right side axle that go from the wheels into the trans, this is a front wheel drive car so no driveshaft
@@GaryFerraro oh haha ya sorry I was thinking in the transmission. I had the drivers side tire off the ground and it was free wheeling even though the car was in park. I haven't looked at the passenger side.
I'm I looking for anything loose?
Update: So I put the car in run but didn't actually start it. After shifting back and forth and one hard pull, there was a pop noise which sounded like it was inside the car. Now the car shifts fine like nothing happened. When it's in park, it still doesn't hold the car from rolling. When I pulled in and out on the passenger side wheel, it felt like it was actually sliding in and out but it's raining hard and dark outside right now so it's hard to see what's happening.
Hey I have a 2006 mazda 6s. I would like to know how to change the transmission speed sensor on it. Code p0722 on it
That sensor is located by the diff, held in by one bolt, just pop the old one out and install the new one, plug wires back in
@@GaryFerraro Hey is that on top or bottom
Dear Gary. I have a mazda 3 2005 automatic gearbox FN4AEL/4F27E . The car already have 70.000 miles and the automatic gearbox is giving me a lot of trouble. The reverse speed sometimes gets in sometimes not, the AT sign sometimes goes on and the rest of time off, it does not show 2 second speed goes from 1 to 3 speed, shifting between speeds makes a knock , between speeds sometimes slide when runing the car. The mechanic says that he can not scan the car because the AT sign is not on when i take the car to his workshop.
At the end he told me that I have to take down and repair the gearbox. I am buying the spare parts becuase there is supply problem in my country (Venezuela). I suppose to buy the master kit , pistons, disks , drum direct , drum reverse and solenoid (2 small ones). I am worried because i dont really dont know if all these parts needs to be replaced. On the other hand, please recommend me a website o distributor where i can buy these parts.
Regards
ok, first, if reverse is there sometimes, you need to check the end cover, there are ring lands that tend to wear out, this can cause no reverse. If your not getting 2nd gear, you either have a problem with the band or the piston that applies the band could be no good, there is a problem with the pistons of the bonding coming off. Are you going to break the trans down before ordering parts?
Gary Ferraro thanks for your response. Considering the milage of the car and the problems I am having. I believe it would be a better idea to break down and reconstruct the entire gearbox. What do you recommend me to do ? Anyways the mechanic needs to take down the gearbox to determinate what it is wrong with it. I believe that i can buy at least the master kit
Hi Gary, I have Mazda 5 with this trans, my problem is vibrating sound from transmission since the engine start and will smooth down once engine warm. Once the engine warm, the vibration/rattle gone while in park/neutral but came back again once in gear. No problem in shifting, only rattle if engine RPM reach 2000 and will smooth down after been driven a while but not totally gone. Could it be the rattle came from differential? Sound like mechanical rotating parts, but sometimes sound like suffocating fluid pump.
Ok, would you say its more like a buzzing sound than a rattle?
Gary Ferraro I would say deep/muffled rattle sound
Did you put the car on a lift to verify the noise is coming from the trans? Im thinking maybe cracked flywheel
I did put on jack stand and put in gear, running up to 30km/h no rattle sound. I guess because there is no/less load. Not sure the flywheel condition. Haven't check yet.
Does the noise change as engine rpm changes?
Whats the recommended atf for this?any alternative ?
mercon V
If it's just the 4 speed unit dextron is ok
2006 mazda 3 with the 5 gear it. Goes in at mode an wornt shift in 4th or 5th
scan it for codes
I have the same problem turn it off an on it when make a lil bit before it do it again
@@aaronthomas7446 does it stop moving when hot?
@@GaryFerraro no it down down in 3rd an pops AT light comes on .. Ive tried scanning it but give me a error on my scanner
@@aaronthomas7446 If it spins up like it goes to neutral, you probably have a bad 3-4 clutch pack
i saw inside that it have too much backlash on the driver side gear..
Did you try the new axle
yes ive tried and there is still a clunking.sound on.driver side whenever i put reverse or.drive
Hey Gary
Thanks for the video. My Mazda5 has AT light on, giving P07XX codes. the first time i scanned obd2 tool at autozone, it said shift solenoid c stuck . the rpm went all the way up in 3rd and 4th gear with very little output. then the car goes on limp mode. i replaced all the solenoid set and code came back solenoid b stuck. i opened the body valve to check for obstruction but found nothing. i'm trying to DIY this problem but lacking the tools to open the whole transmission to check inside. can you point me to a specific area of affected so i can focus to fix it. thank you
Do you know what the code is, P07XX is not a valid code, so this shifts 1-2 and when it shifts to 3rd goes into neutral?
the first time the code was p0762 shift solenoid c. after i replace the solenoid set, it turned into p0766 shift solenoid d. 1st to 2nd shift rough. sometime it can't shift to 3rd. when it can, 3rd gear either smooth or rev up rpm like 2nd gear. and 4th completely locked unless i reset the battery, then 4th rev up high rpm with very little thrust.
toward the end of your video when you talked about the solenoid. i couldnt hear what you said about the common problem that give false solenoid code reading. can you clarify that too?
What is the year and engine size of your car?
Just to save some time, did you happen to notice the time on the video when i mentioned that, if not i can look.
Can I call you. 😄 messing with one right now
My Mazda 3 2005, I replaced rear main oil seal and transmission seal,,, bit still is leaking,,, could it be that o'ring?
juan acevedo are you sure it's leaking from the front. You may want to clean it down and start it up to see the leak
Gary Ferraro I will do a test tomorrow, I will let you know
juan acevedo ok. I use brake Kleen. To clean the oil off works good
Gary Ferraro I hope I don't have to remove the transmission again, Im still thinking what I missed
Gary Ferraro Hello, I just cleaned with carb cleaner, leave it for 20min in Idle and there is no leak but I accelerated and whe I check there is again transmission oil leak
Shouldn't use screwdriver to pry apart housings. When you do this to damage mating surfaces
How do I know if I have a 4 or a 5 speed trans it's an o4 Mazda 6i 2.3
Can you post your vin, i can run it through my program, Where are you located?
York pa
Ok, just ran your vin, you have the 4 speed trans.
Thanks Gary
Any way you could post a video of changing the clutches and re assembly of the fn4a-el
hey happy new year.. i was wondering if you can give me some information on my car if you have time. i have a 2007 mazda 3 with a fs5a-el and the car gives a p0720 & u2064 with trans oil is cold and it shifts bad and jerks from reverse to drive, 1 to 2nd.. when i drive the car for 20 minutes and clear the code it works with no problems. i checked the speed sensor, imm speed sensor, turbine sensor, pressure switch, 2 shift solenoid and still nothing worked... any help?
If you clear the code does the P0720 come back, Do you have a scanner to see if the output sensor is reading?
Gary Ferraro if i drive the car for 20 minutes and clear the code it will not come again and the car will shift find but once i park the car for a few hours the code comee on again.. i checked the wires and it seems to have the right voltage and the speed sensor is reading correct on the dashboard
i have a scanner that can do readings also
Did you see if the output senor reads?
Gary Ferraro yes
gary if theres a clunk in the transmission where and what part is worn
When do you feel it, on engagement?
yes on the driver side...
it is rebuild already, but i feel the differential is the problem. on the driver side when i put to park the passenger side is steady no clunk on the the driver side when i turn the wheel it generates a clunk sound and it feels like there is a backlash, the differential is not yet replace, my mazda 3 is 2004 model auto 2.0...
yes when ever i engage to drive or reverse...
Question, have you checked the mounts?
the trans mount is still good
Ok, what about the axles, sometimes those inner joints wear out
Are they good transmission what are there life expectancy
They are pretty good, doing one now, i would say they last about 100K
@@GaryFerraro oh so I should avoid a Mazda 6 2006 with 120k?
@@GaryFerraro what do you think of the car 2004 Infiniti i35
@@manuelesquivel2107 They are not bad, just like anything else they have there common problems, haven't had one in a while though
whats the simptom servo apply leaking?
may have a slip on the 1-2 and 3-4 shift
@@GaryFerraro is it coz of servo leak if free gear for a while between 1-2 gear?
@@yoyyoy4789 the band gets applied in 2nd, possible bonding came off piston
@@yoyyoy4789 The piston could be bad, the bonding may have come off
@@GaryFerraro u means maybe leak from piston servo?
This is a very common problem on Toyota Corollas and Pontiac Vibes which essentially are Toyota Corollas under the hood. I don't know if you have come across this code on a Toyota and what the most common cause could be. I haven't found anything reliable online.
what code P0741?
@@GaryFerraro Yes P0741
@@moshet842 On this trans FN4AEL, bad stator bushing will cause this code
@@GaryFerraro I was asking about Toyota transmissions such as the A246e
@@moshet842 Oh < Still haven't been able to figure that on out, when i get that unit in, i only go with a reman unit
Where Are the real transmission?
Which ones? what kind of car
@@GaryFerraro they got little components
@@andresrivasmacias3145 You mean valvebodies?
the imagen quality is bad!!!!!!!!!
Probably old video, i have upgraded since